TW201323006A - 持久、易洗除之化妝品組合物 - Google Patents
持久、易洗除之化妝品組合物 Download PDFInfo
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- TW201323006A TW201323006A TW101130161A TW101130161A TW201323006A TW 201323006 A TW201323006 A TW 201323006A TW 101130161 A TW101130161 A TW 101130161A TW 101130161 A TW101130161 A TW 101130161A TW 201323006 A TW201323006 A TW 201323006A
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- koh
- film
- composition
- methyl methacrylate
- methacrylic acid
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
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Abstract
本發明提供化妝品組合物，其在施加至人類皮膚(integument)時能在其上形成化妝品薄膜。本發明之化妝品組合物通常包含化妝品上可接受之媒劑、視情況一或多種著色劑，及聚(甲基丙烯酸-共-甲基丙烯酸甲酯)之pH依賴性成膜聚合物，該成膜聚合物具有約1：1至約1：2之甲基丙烯酸與甲基丙烯酸甲酯之比率、約150mg KOH/g至約350mg KOH/g之酸值及在約100,000g/mol與約150,000g/mol之間之重量平均莫耳質量。該等組合物能在皮膚上形成附著薄膜，該薄膜在第一pH實質上抵抗水移除，但在高於該第一pH之第二pH可輕易分散或溶於水中。
Description
本申請案概言之係關於化妝品組合物，其在人類皮膚上形成持久沈積物，但藉由調節pH可易於移除。更具體而言，本申請案係關於具有pH依賴性聚合物之化妝品組合物，其能在人類皮膚上形成附著薄膜，該薄膜在第一pH下耐水移除，但在第二pH下可易於移除。
對於習用化妝品產品而言，使用者通常必須在可易於移除之產品與長時間(即一整天)保持在皮膚上之產品之間作出選擇。儘管可易於移除之產品可藉由(例如)用肥皂及水洗滌快速地移除，但使用者可發現自身全天均在重複地再施加該產品，此乃因該產品亦可因汗及與衣服或諸如此類接觸而無意地移除。另一方面，典型持久化妝品產品較少經受無意移除，但可能難以洗除且可能需要使用有機溶劑或其他苛刻化妝品移除劑。因此，業內仍需要長時間保持在皮膚上同時藉由用肥皂及水洗滌可易於移除之化妝品組合物。
業內已知某些pH依賴性產品。例如，頒予Ribier等人之美國專利5,993,831(其全文以引用方式併入本文中)係關於含有一或多種pH依賴性聚合物之奈米粒子之組合物，該等奈米粒子囊封含有諸如化妝品或藥物等活性劑之油相。據悉，奈米粒子之直徑係100 nm至1000 nm，此允許該等粒子在角質層之最外層角質細胞之間滑動而不會到達活表皮。
作為另一實例，頒予Norbury等人之美國專利4,976,961(其全文以引用方式併入本文中)同樣係關於存於pH依賴性聚合物之微膠囊中之化妝品潤滑油。據悉，Norbury之微膠囊之直徑大小在50 μm至2000 μm範圍內，且通常在皮膚上壓碎以釋放其中所含之油。據悉，微膠囊殼包含諸如酚醛、脲醛、丙烯酸系聚合物、明膠及瓊脂等有機聚合物。
頒予Shefer等人之美國專利7,053,034(其全文以引用方式併入本文中)係關於將芳香劑及活性成份靶定遞送至織物、毛髮及皮膚上之受控釋放載體系統。據悉，Shefer之系統包含囊封在pH或鹽敏感微球體中之固體疏水奈米球體。將微球體描述為平均球體大小在約20 μm(微米)至約100 μm範圍內，且認為奈米球體之平均球體大小在約0.01 μm至約5 μm範圍內。此外，可自實例性pH敏感材料(例如丙烯酸酯聚合物與胺基取代基、丙烯酸酯及聚丙烯醯胺之共聚物)製得微球體。Shefer之微球體係自乳化至水相中之高溫熔體形成。
頒予Vernice等人之美國專利申請公開案2006/0127427(其全文以引用方式併入本文中)闡述表面經塗覆之研磨材料，其具有藉由塗層圍繞之水溶性研磨核心，該塗層在儲存期間實質上不溶於水性介質，但在施加大量水或調節水性介質之pH後變得實質上溶於水。
所引用技術並未認識到，pH依賴性聚合物可有利地提供長期保留之化妝品薄膜，該等薄膜在溫和條件下藉由改變pH易於移除。因此，業內仍需要長時間保持在皮膚上同時
(例如)藉由用肥皂及水洗滌可易於移除之pH依賴性化妝品組合物。
已驚奇地發現，可在化妝品組合物內採用某些pH依賴性成膜聚合物以延長組合物之保留時間，同時仍允許在溫和、水性條件下較佳利用肥皂及水移除該等組合物。化妝品組合物在人類皮膚上形成實質性耐久薄膜，但可藉由調節pH以使聚合物溶解或分散(例如藉由用水及表面活性劑洗滌皮膚)來移除。
根據上述目的及其他，本發明提供在人類皮膚上形成化妝品薄膜之方法。該方法包含將具有化妝品上可接受之媒劑、視情況一或多種著色劑及聚(甲基丙烯酸-共-甲基丙烯酸甲酯)之pH依賴性成膜聚合物之化妝品組合物施加至人類皮膚。
本發明之特定實施例係在人類皮膚上形成化妝品薄膜之方法，其包括：將具有化妝品上可接受之媒劑、視情況一或多種著色劑及聚(甲基丙烯酸-共-甲基丙烯酸甲酯)之pH依賴性成膜聚合物之化妝品組合物施加至該人類皮膚，該成膜聚合物具有約1：1至約1：2之甲基丙烯酸與甲基丙烯酸甲酯之比率、約150 mg KOH/g至約350 mg KOH/g之酸值及在約100,000 g/mol與約150,000 g/mol之間之重量平均莫耳質量，其中該化妝品組合物能在該皮膚上形成附著薄膜，該薄膜在第一pH下實質上耐水移除，但在高於該第一pH之第二pH下可易於分散或溶解於水中，限制條件為該
成膜聚合物不呈微膠囊之形式。
在本發明之某些實施例中，pH依賴性成膜聚合物通常具有約1：1至約1：2之甲基丙烯酸與甲基丙烯酸甲酯之莫耳比率、約150 mg KOH/g至約350 mg KOH/g之酸值及在約100,000 g/mol與約150,000 g/mol之間之重量平均莫耳質量。通常，pH依賴性成膜聚合物係具有包括丙烯酸/丙烯酸衍生物之單體之共聚物，例如具有以下結構之聚合物
其中m及n係整數，以使得重量平均莫耳質量係在約100,000 g/mol與約150,000 g/mol之間且使得甲基丙烯酸與甲基丙烯酸甲酯之莫耳比率係約1：1至約1：2。該等聚合物之實例係以EUDRAGIT® S 100及EUDRAGIT® L 100自Evonik Degussa-Huls公司購得。
儘管較佳pH依賴性成膜聚合物在鹼性條件下可溶，但人們認識到，在本發明方法中可潛在地關注在酸性條件下或在不同pH調節條件下之溶解性。酸性條件之此一聚合物之實例具有以下結構
其中p係整數，以使得重量平均莫耳質量係在約100,000 g/mol與約150,000 g/mol之間。此類型之聚合物係購自Evonik Degussa-Huls公司。預期上文所示類型之胺官能化聚合物可用於調配特徵在於在鹼性條件下之溶解性差但在酸性條件下之溶解性良好之產品。當溶液之pH降至觸發pH時，聚合物會經歷胺基之離子化，從而增加聚合物之水溶解性且隨之溶解並自皮膚移除。因此，此類型之產品能在皮膚上形成耐久、長期保留之薄膜，該薄膜在鹼性及較佳中性條件下耐移除或轉移，包含耐用肥皂及水之移除。
通常，化妝品組合物能在皮膚上形成在第一pH下實質上耐水移除之附著薄膜。然而，聚合物在高於(即鹼性更強)第一pH之第二pH下可易於分散或溶解於水中。成膜聚合物不呈囊封物(例如微膠囊或奈米囊)之形式。
在本發明之另一態樣中提供化妝品組合物。化妝品組合物包含化妝品上可接受之媒劑、視情況一或多種著色劑及聚(甲基丙烯酸-共-甲基丙烯酸甲酯)之pH依賴性成膜聚合物。聚合物通常具有約1：1至約1：2之甲基丙烯酸與甲基丙烯酸甲酯之比率、約150 mg KOH/g至約350 mg KOH/g之酸值及在約100,000 g/mol與約150,000 g/mol之間之重量平
均莫耳質量。此外，聚合物能在人類皮膚上形成實質上耐第一pH下水移除之附著薄膜。然而，聚合物在高於(即鹼性更強)第一pH之第二pH下可分散或溶解於水中。成膜聚合物不呈囊封物之形式。
本發明之特定實施例係包括化妝品上可接受之媒劑、視情況一或多種著色劑及聚(甲基丙烯酸-共-甲基丙烯酸甲酯)之pH依賴性成膜聚合物之化妝品組合物，該成膜聚合物具有約1：1至約1：2之甲基丙烯酸與甲基丙烯酸甲酯之比率、約150 mg KOH/g至約350 mg KOH/g之酸值及在約100,000 g/mol與約150,000 g/mol之間之重量平均莫耳質量，其中該聚合物能在人類皮膚上形成附著薄膜，該薄膜在第一pH下實質上耐水移除，但在高於該第一pH之第二pH下可易於分散或溶解於水中，限制條件為該成膜聚合物不呈微膠囊之形式。
將藉由閱讀以下詳細說明及隨附申請專利範圍較佳地理解本發明之該等及其他態樣。
除非另外提供，否則本文所用所有術語皆意欲具有其業內之普通含義。所有濃度皆以指定組份相對於化妝品組合物之總重量之重量百分比率表示。除非另有定義，否則片語「實質上不含」係指組份之量足夠低，從而使得該組份對整體性質不造成顯著影響且在任何情形下均將小於0.5重量%且較佳小於0.1重量%。
本發明提供化妝品組合物，其可施加至人類皮膚(例如
皮膚、睫毛、唇、毛髮等)且可長時間保持於其上，但藉由(例如)用肥皂及水洗調節pH易於移除。化妝品組合物可呈以下形式：固體(例如，粉末及壓粉)；懸浮液；漿液；洗劑；水性、稀醇性或油性凝膠；分散液；乳液(例如，水包油乳液及油包水乳液)；液體及諸如此類。本文所用術語液體意欲包含極薄至極黏性之材料，包含具有高初始黏度(例如在25℃下高達約2,000,000 cps)之非牛頓液體以及能自容器分配至人類皮膚上之凝膠及其他材料。較佳化妝品包含(但不限於)睫毛膏、粉底、防曬劑、毛髮護理劑(hair treatment)、壓粉、眼影、水性唇用產品(例如，唇膏及唇彩)、潤膚霜、皮膚凝膠及諸如此類。
該化妝品組合物包括一或多種pH依賴性成膜聚合物。通常，該等聚合物包括基於隨機、嵌段或交替組態之甲基丙烯酸及甲基丙烯酸甲酯之陰離子共聚物。該等聚合物在pH低於觸發pH因非離子化(即質子化)羧酸基團而不溶於水。然而，當溶液之pH增加至觸發pH時，聚合物發生羧酸基團之離子化，導致增加聚合物之水溶解性及後續溶解及自皮膚移除。
本發明之實例性pH依賴性聚合物包括莫耳比率約1：1至約1：2(例如約1：1及約1：2)之甲基丙烯酸與甲基丙烯酸甲酯共聚物。該聚合物通常包括酸值約150mg KOH/g至約350 mg KOH/g，包含諸如(但不限於)約150 mg KOH/g至約200 mg KOH/g及約300 KOH/g至約350 KOH/g之實例性範圍。酸值尤佳係約190 mg KOH/g與約315 mg KOH/g。此外，
在某些實施例中，pH依賴性聚合物通常具有平均莫耳質量約100,000 g/mol至約150,000 g/mol且最通常約125,000 g/mol。
較佳之pH依賴性成膜聚合物係由Evonik Degussa-Huls Corporation以名稱EUDRAGIT® S 100及EUDRAGIT® L 100出售。該等聚合物之薄膜或塗層在pH值小於約7(EUDRAGIT® S 100)及小於約6(EUDRAGIT® L 100)不可溶。因此，該等聚合物可單獨或組合包含於化妝品組合物中，使得由此產生之薄膜之pH依賴性溶解度可選擇為約6至約7，包含(但不限於)約6.0、6.1、6.2、6.3、6.4、6.5、6.6、6.7、6.8、6.9及7.0。該選擇通常將基於化妝品組合物之期望用途，但可寬泛地說明將選擇pH依賴性成膜聚合物以使得薄膜在小於肥皂/水組合(通常大於約7)之pH不溶於水。因此，可選擇成膜聚合物以使得化妝品組合物在大於約5.0、大於約5.5、大於約6.0、大於約6.5、大於約7.0或大於約7.5之pH可溶，取決於預期用途。熟習此項技術者應理解，可使用經由其他pH調節(即在漸增酸性條件下)可溶之其他聚合物。
存於組合物中之pH依賴性聚合物之量通常將在該組合物之約0.2重量%至約10重量%之範圍內，但端視期望性質可更高或更低。通常，化妝品組合物將包括約0.2重量%至約10重量%、更通常約1重量%至約8重量%且最通常約2重量%至約5重量%之量之pH依賴性聚合物。已發現，包括該等pH依賴性聚合物之化妝品組合物不僅易於施加至皮膚且易
於自皮膚移除，且長時間保持與皮膚接觸。例如，包括pH依賴性聚合物之化妝品組合物可在皮膚上保持約4小時、約5小時、約6小時、約7小時以上或甚至約8小時以上。
成膜聚合物不呈囊封物之形式，且尤其不利用，如美國專利第7,053,034號、第4,976,961號、第5,993,831號及美國專利申請公開案第2006/0127427號中所述者，該等專利中之每一者闡述於上文中且其全文皆以引用方式併入本文中。本文所用術語「微膠囊」係指聚合物膜(即殼)圍繞核心材料(例如活性成份)之結構。術語「微膠囊」意欲係通用術語且不限於具體大小(即奈米、微米等)。
除pH依賴性成膜聚合物之外，本發明化妝品組合物亦可包括任何數目之其他成份，例如(但不限於)活性成份(例如化妝品、皮膚病藥劑及/或藥物)、醇、過敏抑制劑、胺基酸、抗粉刺劑(例如，水楊酸)、抗衰老劑、殺菌劑、抗真菌劑、止汗劑、鎮痛劑、抗脫髮劑、抗皺紋劑、抗細菌劑、抗微生物劑、抗氧化劑、抗炎劑、燒傷癒合劑、著色劑(例如，色澱、顏料及諸如此類)、去色素劑、除臭劑、染料、潤滑劑(例如，甘油、丁二醇)、賦形劑、脂肪物質、填充劑、成膜劑(例如，二甲聚矽氧烷丙烯酸酯共聚物、丙烯酸乙基己基酯共聚物)、芳香劑、自由基清除劑、甘油、甘油單硬脂酸酯、甘油二硬脂酸酯、生髮劑、毛髮調理劑、毛髮軟化劑、毛髮保濕劑、草本提取物、潤濕劑(例如，透明質酸、乳清酸、脂蛋白)、驅蟲劑、藥劑、保濕劑、非活性載劑油(例如，甘油三酸酯、聚矽氧
油、礦物油)、油、肽、多肽、蛋白質、香料、顏料、防腐劑、增塑劑、反射劑、皮脂吸收劑、亮膚劑、防曬劑、表面活性劑、鞣劑、增稠劑(例如，羥乙基纖維素、黃原膠、卡波姆(carbomer))、凡士林(Vaseline)、血管收縮劑、血管舒張劑、維生素(例如，維生素A、維生素E)、水、蠟及/或其組合。
本發明之組合物亦可包含其他化妝品成份，例如(但不限於)潤濕劑、潤滑劑、保濕劑、抗皺紋成份、遮瑕膏、無光澤精整劑(matte finishing agent)、顏料、著色劑、蛋白質、抗氧化劑、古銅色化妝品、螯合劑、乳化劑、紫外(UV)吸收劑、吸油劑、消泡劑、抗黏劑、增稠劑、芳香劑、防腐劑、抗微生物劑、抑真菌劑、中和劑、維生素、增塑劑、凝聚劑、鹼化及酸化劑、填充劑、溶劑及其混合物。
組合物可含有其他成份，例如鹼化劑、乳化劑、潤滑劑、增塑劑、防腐劑、潤濕劑、保濕劑、溶劑及張度劑；或適宜提供抗衰老益處之活性成份。較佳其他成份之實例包含甘油。
可視情況將其他成份添加至下文詳述之本發明組合物。
著色劑或顏料：組合物可包括一或多種化妝品粉末，例如硼矽酸鈣鋁、PMMA、聚乙烯、聚苯乙烯、甲基丙烯酸甲酯交聯聚合物、耐綸-12(nylon-12)、乙烯/丙烯酸共聚物、氮化硼、鐵氟龍(Teflon)、二氧化矽或諸如此類。通常，組合物將包含著色劑或顏料以賦予期望色彩或效應，
實例係無機顏料、有機顏料及/或色澱。實例性無機顏料包含(但不限於)金屬氧化物及金屬氫氧化物，例如，氧化鎂、氫氧化鎂、氧化鈣、氫氧化鈣、氧化鋁、氫氧化鋁、氧化鐵(α-Fe2O3、γ-Fe2O3、Fe3O4、FeO)、紅色氧化鐵、黃色氧化鐵、黑色氧化鐵、氫氧化鐵、二氧化鈦、鈦之低級氧化物、氧化鋯、氧化鉻、氫氧化鉻、氧化錳、氧化鈷、氧化鈰、氧化鎳及氧化鋅；及複合氧化物及複合氫氧化物，例如鈦酸鐵、鈦酸鈷及鋁酸鈷。適宜無機顏料亦涵蓋非金屬氧化物，諸如氧化鋁及二氧化矽、群青(即，含有硫之矽酸鈉鋁)、普魯士藍(Prussian blue)、錳紫、氧氯化鉍、滑石粉、雲母、絹雲母粉、碳酸鎂、碳酸鈣、矽酸鎂、矽酸鋁鎂、二氧化矽、鈦酸雲母、氧化鐵鈦酸雲母、氧氯化鉍及諸如此類。有機顏料可包含(但不限於)以下中之至少一者及其組合：碳黑、胭脂紅、酞菁藍及酞菁綠顏料；二芳基化物黃及二芳基化物橙顏料；及偶氮型紅及偶氮型黃顏料，例如甲苯胺紅、立索紅(litho red)、萘酚紅及萘酚棕顏料。
色澱通常係指自已沈澱至不溶反應性或吸附性底層或稀釋劑上之水溶性有機染料(例如，D&C或FD&C)製備之著色劑。本文所用術語「D&C」意指由FDA批准用於藥品及化妝品中之藥品及化妝品著色劑。本文所用術語「FD&C」意指由FDA批准用於食品、藥品及化妝品中之食品、藥品及化妝品著色劑。合格D&C及FD&C著色劑列示於21 C.F.R..§ 74.101以及後續部分中，且包含以下
FD&C染料：藍色1、藍色2、綠色3、橙色B、橘紅色2、紅色3、紅色4、紅色40、黃色5、黃色6、藍色1、藍色2、橙色B、橘紅色2；及以下D&C染料：藍色4、藍色9、綠色5、綠色6、綠色8、橙色4、橙色5、橙色10、橙色11、紅色6、紅色7、紅色17、紅色21、紅色22、紅色27、紅色28、紅色30、紅色31、紅色33、紅色34、紅色36、紅色39、紫色2、黃色7、黃色8、黃色10、黃色11、藍色4、藍色6、綠色5、綠色6、綠色8、橙色4、橙色5、橙色10、橙色11等。適於形成色澱之基質包含(但不限於)雲母、氧氯化鉍、絹雲母粉、氧化鋁、鋁、銅、青銅、銀、鈣、鋯、鋇及鍶、鈦酸雲母、發煙二氧化矽、球形二氧化矽、聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯(PMMA)、微粉化鐵氟龍、氮化硼、丙烯酸酯共聚物、矽酸鋁、澱粉辛烯基琥珀酸鋁、膨潤土(bentonite)、矽酸鈣、纖維素、白堊、玉米澱粉、矽藻土、漂白土、甘油澱粉、鋰膨潤石(hectorite)、水合二氧化矽、高嶺土(kaolin)、矽酸鎂鋁、三矽酸鎂、麥芽糖糊精、蒙脫石(montmorillonite)、微晶纖維素、米澱粉、二氧化矽、滑石粉、雲母、二氧化鈦、月桂酸鋅、豆蔻酸鋅、松脂酸鋅、氧化鋁、鎂鋁海泡石(attapulgite)、碳酸鈣、矽酸鈣、葡聚糖、耐綸、甲矽烷基化矽石、絲粉、絹雲母粉、大豆粉、氧化錫、氫氧化鈦、磷酸三鎂、胡桃殼粉及其混合物。適宜色澱包含(但不限於)彼等來自單偶氮、雙偶氮、螢烷、呫噸或靛藍類家族之紅色染料者，該等紅色染料係(例如)紅色4、6、7、17、21、22、27、28、
30、31、33、34、36及紅色40；吡唑、單偶氮、螢烷、呫噸、喹啉黃色染料或其鹽之色澱，該等黃色染料係(例如)黃色5、6、7、8、10及11；紫色染料之色澱，該等紫色染料包含彼等來自蒽醌類家族者，例如紫色2；以及橙色染料之色澱，該等橙色染料包含橙色4、5、10、11；及諸如此類。D&C及FD&C染料之適宜色澱定義於21 C.F.R.§ 82.51中。
可視情況對著色劑實施表面處理以(例如)使顆粒之疏水性較高或可較多地分散於媒劑中。顆粒之表面(例如)可以共價或離子方式結合至有機分子或基於矽之分子或可吸附至其上，或顆粒經一層材料物理塗覆。可經由任何適宜偶合劑、連接基團或官能基(例如，矽烷、酯、醚等)將表面處理化合物附接至顆粒上。化合物可包括疏水部分，該部分可選自(例如)以下基團：烷基、芳基、烯丙基、乙烯基、烷基-芳基、芳基-烷基、有機聚矽氧、二有機聚矽氧、聚二甲基矽氧烷、聚甲基矽氧烷、聚胺基甲酸酯、聚矽氧-聚胺基甲酸酯及其氟-或全氟衍生物。其他疏水改性劑包含(僅舉數例)月桂醯離胺酸、三異硬脂酸異丙基鈦(ITT)、ITT與聚二甲基矽氧烷(ITT/聚二甲基矽氧烷)交聯聚合聚物、ITT與胺基酸、ITT/三乙氧基辛醯基矽烷交聯聚合物、蠟(例如，巴西棕櫚蠟(carnauba carnauba))、脂肪酸(例如硬脂酸酯)、HDI/三羥甲基己內酯交聯聚合物、PEG-8甲基醚三乙氧基矽烷、蘆薈、荷荷芭酯(jojoba ester)、卵磷脂、全氟醇磷酸酯及肉豆蔻酸鎂(MM)。
可選顏料組份包含烷基矽烷表面處理之著色劑，該著色劑基本上係由氧化鋁基質(例如薄片形)及藉由烷基矽烷表面處理接合至該氧化鋁基質之顏料、染料或色澱組成或包括該等物質。通常，烷基矽烷將係辛基矽烷，且可藉由用三乙氧基辛醯基矽烷處理來形成。該等著色劑之非限制性實例包含(但不限於)氧化鋁/二氧化鈦/三乙氧基辛醯基矽烷1%(COVALUMINETM Atlas White AS)、氧化鋁/D&C紅色鋁色澱CTD/三乙氧基辛醯基矽烷1%(COVALUMINETM Red Rose AS)、氧化鋁/D&C紅色鋁色澱CTD/三乙氧基辛醯基矽烷1%(COVALUMINETM Sonoma Red AS)、氧化鋁/黑色氧化鐵CTD/三乙氧基辛醯基矽烷1%(COVALUMINETM Sonoma Black AS)、氧化鋁/D&C紅色6號鋁色澱CTD/三乙氧基辛醯基矽烷1%(COVALUMINETM Fire Red AS)、氧化鋁/黃色氧化鐵CTD/三乙氧基辛醯基矽烷1%(COVALUMINETM Sonoma Yellow AS)、氧化鋁/D&C藍色1號鋁色澱CTD/三乙氧基辛醯基矽烷1%(COVALUMINETM Astral Blue AS)、氧化鋁/胭脂紅CTD/三乙氧基辛醯基矽烷1%(COVALUMINETM Campari AS)、氧化鋁/黃色5號CTD/三乙氧基辛醯基矽烷1%(COVALUMINETM Sunburst AS)、氧化鋁/三乙氧基辛醯基矽烷1%及其組合，該等著色劑中之每一者均係購自SENSIENTTM Cosmetic Technologies LCW。
亦可包含干涉顏料或珍珠顏料。該等顏料通常包括用TiO2、Fe2O3或Cr2O3或諸如此類之約50 nm至300 nm薄膜分層之雲母。該等顏料包含白色珍珠材料，例如經氧化鈦覆
蓋或經氧氯化鉍覆蓋之雲母；及有色珍珠材料，例如具有氧化鐵之鈦雲母、具有氧化鐵藍或氧化鉻之鈦雲母、具有上述類型之有機顏料之鈦雲母。若使用該等材料，則較佳總共以小於1.0 wt%之量使用該等材料。較佳地，珠光組份具有基於氧氯化鉍之珠光成份或反射珍珠。氧氯化鉍比諸如氧化鈦等提供較虛假外表之化合物更匹配皮膚之天然珠光。氧氯化鉍更好的模仿皮膚之天然反射。然而，可使用其他珠光成份。較佳珠光組份稱作CHROMA-LITE，其係使用硬脂酸鈣與BI-LITE 20(氧氯化鉍及雲母)接合之有色顏料之組合。CHROMA-LITE組份係以多種色調/色彩自Englehard公司(Iselin,N.J.)購得。
化妝品上可接受之媒劑：本發明組合物通常將包括化妝品上可接受之媒劑。本文所用「化妝品上可接受」意指其與人類皮膚接觸係安全的。媒劑可包括包含含單相、雙向系統之液體或乳液。乳液包含水包油、水包聚矽氧、油包水、聚矽氧包水及諸如此類。當按乳液調配時，通常包含乳化劑。尤其可提及揮發性聚矽氧(例如環戊矽氧烷)、烴類、酯油、低碳醇(例如乙醇、異丙醇等)及水。
潤滑劑：潤滑劑可用於本發明中，且包含(但不限於)酯油，通常係R4(COOH)1-2形式之酸與R5(OH)1-3形式之醇之酯化產物，其中R4及R5各獨立地為直鏈、具支鏈或環狀烴基，視情況含有不飽和鍵，且具有1個至30個碳原子、較佳2個至30個碳原子且更佳3個至30個碳原子，視情況經一個或多個官能基(包含羥基、氧雜基、側氧基及諸如此類)
取代。較佳地，R4及R5中之至少一者包括至少一條脂肪鏈。上文所界定之酯包含(但不限於)單酸與單醇、單酸與二醇及三醇、二酸與單醇、及三酸與單醇之酯。其他潤滑劑包含聚二甲基矽氧烷(dimethicone)。亦可包含潤濕劑，諸如甘油及其他C1-10多元醇或二醇。
填充劑：亦可視情況以最終組合物之約1重量%至約20重量%、較佳約1重量%至約10重量%之量添加填充劑。填充劑之實例包含(但不限於)二氧化矽、PMMA、耐綸、氧化鋁、硫酸鋇，或通常用於該等組合物中之任何其他填充劑。
成膜劑：聚合物成膜劑包含纖維素製品、聚烯烴、聚乙烯、聚丙烯酸酯、聚胺基甲酸酯、聚矽氧、聚矽氧丙烯酸酯、聚醯胺、聚酯、含氟聚合物、聚醚、聚乙酸酯、聚碳酸酯、聚醯亞胺、橡膠、環氧樹脂、甲醛樹脂，及任何上述之均聚物及共聚物。
油：用於油相(例如在乳液中)之油之適宜非限制性實例包含天然及合成油，包含動物油、植物油及石油；脂肪酸三酸甘油酯；脂肪酸酯，例如棕櫚酸辛酯、豆蔻酸異丙酯及棕櫚酸異丙酯；醚，例如二辛基醚；脂肪醇，例如鯨蠟醇、硬脂醇及山崳醇；固醇；烴，例如異辛烷、異十二烷、異十六烷、癸烷、十二烷、十四烷、十三烷、C8-20異鏈烷烴、礦物油、石蠟脂、異二十烷及聚異丁烯；C10-30膽固醇/羊毛固醇酯；羊毛脂及諸如此類。代表性烴類包含自Exxon以商標ISOPARS及自Permethyl Corporation購得
之石蠟烴。另外，預期C8-20石蠟烴，諸如Permethyl Corporation製造之商品名PERMETHYL 99ATM之C12異烷烴(異十二烷)亦適宜。多種市售C16異烷烴，諸如異十六烷(商品名為PERMETHYL®)，亦適宜。聚矽氧油，諸如聚二甲基矽氧烷、環狀聚矽氧及聚矽氧烷，亦可包含於油相中。在一個實施例中，聚矽氧油係以小於油相之約5重量%之量存在。
溶劑：化妝品上可接受之媒劑可包括揮發性溶劑。通常，揮發性溶劑在20℃下之蒸氣壓可高於約0.01 mmHg。揮發性溶劑可包含揮發性C5-12烴(例如異十二烷)、芳香烴(例如二甲苯、甲苯等)、酮(例如丙酮、甲基乙基酮等)、醚(例如二乙醚、甲基乙基醚等)、全氟烴、氫氟醚、氟氯烷(Freon)、乙酸酯(例如乙酸乙酯、乙酸丁酯等)及諸如此類。較佳揮發性溶劑將係化妝品上可接受的。
增稠劑：懸浮劑及增稠劑通常包含矽凝膠、樹膠、黏土、發煙二氧化矽、脂肪酸皂及多種烴凝膠及在納入調配物中時保持在角蛋白組織表面上之其他成份，如International Cosmetic Dictionary and Handbook(第12版)中所揭示，該文獻以引用方式併入本文中。亦可使用諸如膠凝劑等稠化劑。實例包含有機膨潤土(bentone)、甘油三酸酯、硬脂酸鋁、C18-C36酸二醇酯、三山崳酸甘油酯、甘油單硬脂酸酯、海藻酸酯、卡波姆、纖維素、樹膠、鹿角菜膠、澱粉或矽酸酯。
蠟：可用於本發明中之蠟包含(但不限於)直鏈聚乙烯、
微晶石油蠟、巴西棕櫚蠟、褐煤蠟、小冠椰子蠟(ouricouri wax)、米糠蠟、蓖麻蠟、膠泥蠟(mortar wax)、硬脂酮、阿克蠟(acrawax)、楊梅蠟、蓖麻蠟、日本蠟、地蠟、蜂蠟、堪地里拉蠟(candelilla wax)、石蠟脂、地蠟、可可脂(cocoa butter)、依利伯脂(illipe butter)、梧牙草蠟(esparto wax)、蟲膠蠟、C18-C36脂肪酸之乙二醇二酯或三酯、棕櫚酸鯨蠟基酯、石蠟、硬質牛脂、羊毛脂、羊毛脂醇、鯨蠟醇、單硬脂酸甘油酯、甘蔗蠟、荷荷芭蠟、硬脂醇、聚矽氧蠟及其組合。
彼等熟習此項技術者應理解，可使用任何其他化妝品上可接受之成份，即彼等包含於CFTA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary，第3版中者。
下表1至6中提供本發明之實例性化妝品組合物。
實例中所用「EUDRAGIT」可係EUDRAGIT® S100或EUDRAGIT® L100。預期本發明化妝品組合物具有令人驚奇之性質，即長時間保持在皮膚上且藉由調節pH條件或洗滌易於移除。
儘管已藉由對較佳實施例之上述說明闡述本發明，但熟習此項技術者應理解，可對該等實施例作出修改及改變，此並不背離下文申請專利範圍中所述本發明之精神或範圍。
Claims (19)
- 一種在人類皮膚(integument)上形成化妝品薄膜之方法，其包括：將具有化妝品上可接受之媒劑、視情況一或多種著色劑、及聚(甲基丙烯酸-共-甲基丙烯酸甲酯)之pH依賴性成膜聚合物之化妝品組合物施加至該人類皮膚，該成膜聚合物具有約1：1至約1：2之甲基丙烯酸與甲基丙烯酸甲酯之比率、約150 mg KOH/g至約350 mg KOH/g之酸值及在約100,000 g/mol與約150,000 g/mol之間之重量平均莫耳質量，其中該化妝品組合物能在該皮膚上形成附著薄膜，該薄膜在第一pH實質上抵抗水移除，但在高於該第一pH之第二pH可輕易分散或溶於水中，限制條件為該成膜聚合物不呈微膠囊之形式。
- 如請求項1之方法，其中該第二pH大於約5.5。
- 如請求項1之方法，其中該第二pH大於約6.5。
- 如請求項1之方法，其中該第二pH大於約7.5。
- 如請求項1之方法，其中該甲基丙烯酸與甲基丙烯酸甲酯之比率係約1：1。
- 如請求項1之方法，其中該甲基丙烯酸與甲基丙烯酸甲酯之比率係約1：2。
- 如請求項1之方法，其中該酸值係約150 mg KOH/g至約200 mg KOH/g。
- 如請求項1之方法，其中該酸值係約300 mg KOH/g至約 350 mg KOH/g。
- 如請求項1之方法，其進一步包括使該化妝品組合物與肥皂及水接觸以使該人類皮膚之pH自該第一pH提高至該第二pH，由此自該人類皮膚移除該化妝品組合物。
- 如請求項1之方法，其中該化妝品組合物係選自由以下組成之群：粉底、眼影、潤膚霜、皮膚凝膠、睫毛膏、唇膏及唇彩。
- 一種化妝品組合物，其包括化妝品上可接受之媒劑、視情況一或多種著色劑、及聚(甲基丙烯酸-共-甲基丙烯酸甲酯)之pH依賴性成膜聚合物，該成膜聚合物具有約1：1至約1：2之甲基丙烯酸與甲基丙烯酸甲酯之比率、約150mg KOH/g至約350 mg KOH/g之酸值及在約100,000 g/mol與約150,000 g/mol之間之重量平均莫耳質量，其中該聚合物能在人類皮膚上形成附著薄膜，該薄膜在第一pH實質上抵抗水移除，但在高於該第一pH之第二pH可輕易分散或溶於水中，限制條件為該成膜聚合物不呈微膠囊之形式。
- 如請求項11之組合物，其中該第二pH大於約5.5。
- 如請求項11之組合物，其中該第二pH大於約6.5。
- 如請求項11之組合物，其中該第二pH大於約7.5。
- 如請求項11之組合物，其中該甲基丙烯酸與甲基丙烯酸甲酯之比率係約1：1。
- 如請求項11之組合物，其中該甲基丙烯酸與甲基丙烯酸甲酯之比率係約1：2。
- 如請求項11之組合物，其中該酸值係約150 mg KOH/g至約200 mg KOH/g。
- 如請求項11之組合物，其中該酸值係約300 mg KOH/g至約350 mg KOH/g。
- 如請求項11之組合物，其中該化妝品組合物係選自由以下組成之群：粉底、眼影、潤膚霜、皮膚凝膠、睫毛膏、唇膏及唇彩。
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| US9271921B2 (en) | 2011-12-14 | 2016-03-01 | Avon Products, Inc. | Cosmetic compositions having persistent tightening effects |
| US8771656B2 (en) | 2011-12-14 | 2014-07-08 | Avon Products, Inc | Long-lasting easy wash-off cosmetic compositions |
| MX346272B (es) * | 2012-01-31 | 2017-01-25 | Farmaquimia S A De C V * | Agente de proteccion uv basado en oxicloruro de bismuto. |
| BR112014013937B1 (pt) * | 2013-03-14 | 2020-02-18 | Avon Products, Inc. | Métodos para melhorar o aspecto estético da pele afetada pelo envelhecimento e para fornecer um efeito de curvatura a um cílio que precisa de tal efeito |
| JP2018530580A (ja) * | 2015-10-14 | 2018-10-18 | ロレアル | ソフトフォーカスフィラーと非球状アルミナおよび金属酸化物をベースとする複合顔料とを含む組成物 |
| CN115363981A (zh) * | 2021-10-19 | 2022-11-22 | 广州花出见生物科技有限公司 | 一种偏光提亮液体眼影及其制备方法 |
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| WO2013089833A1 (en) | 2013-06-20 |
| HK1197030A1 (zh) | 2015-01-02 |
| MX2014006490A (es) | 2014-08-27 |
| EP2790679A1 (en) | 2014-10-22 |
| TR201819054T4 (tr) | 2019-01-21 |
| CA2856564C (en) | 2020-04-28 |
| EP2790679A4 (en) | 2015-05-06 |
| US20140251361A1 (en) | 2014-09-11 |
| PL2790679T3 (pl) | 2019-02-28 |
| CN109044880A (zh) | 2018-12-21 |
| US20130156714A1 (en) | 2013-06-20 |
| US8771656B2 (en) | 2014-07-08 |
| BR112014013417B1 (pt) | 2020-06-23 |
| CA2856564A1 (en) | 2013-06-20 |
| BR112014013417A2 (pt) | 2017-06-13 |
| HK1258593A1 (zh) | 2019-11-15 |
| EP2790679B1 (en) | 2018-10-03 |
| MX339843B (es) | 2016-06-14 |
| AR089118A1 (es) | 2014-07-30 |
| US9226887B2 (en) | 2016-01-05 |
| CN104010633A (zh) | 2014-08-27 |
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