200522878 九、發明說明: I:發明戶斤屬之技術領域3 發明領域 本發明係有關於一種立體構造經編織物,更詳而言之,係 5 有關於一種加熱成型後之壓縮復原性、形狀保持性極佳之立體 構造經編織物。 L先前技術3 發明背景 10 以往皆將内衣罩杯等所使用之編織物設計成立體形狀,一 般則藉缝製形成立體形狀。但,該方法較耗時且要求高度之縫 製技術,成本亦較高,而存在諸多缺點。此外,穿著輕薄質材 服裝時可透見罩杯之縫製部分等亦為不便之處。 為解決該等問題,部分之内衣罩杯係以編織物所使用之熱 15 塑性紗之融點或軟化點左右之溫度進行編織物之熱軟化,其次 將業經熱軟化之編織物於模具内加壓而予以成型為適當之形 狀,即,藉所謂加熱壓縮成型方法等所製造。其等係於編織物 上重疊發泡聚胺酯樹脂等而使用,雖然較易成型,但透氣性較 差,且隨時間經過而泛黃、脆化。 20 又,為改良上述缺點,專利文獻1中雖記載有以黏合劑 (binder)固定之不織布成型體之内衣罩杯,但因使用黏合劑而難 以充分控制質感,且彈性亦不足,受擠壓而凹陷變形時幾無壓 縮復原力,黏合劑亦存在時間上的物性特性變化等問題。 又,專利文獻2中則記載有使用熱熔性纖維之不織布製造 200522878 而成者。其較使用黏合樹脂時富於柔軟性及透氣性,但使用該 等不織布者洗濯耐久性不佳,尚未達到形狀保持性及壓縮復原 性之滿意程度。 而,專利文獻3中則記載有一種穿著用成型體,係以構成 5中間中空部之連結紗相互連接表面層部與背面層部而成立體 中空布料,並予以加熱壓縮成型為預定之形狀而形成者。其雖 已改善洗濯耐久性’但仍可能因加熱壓縮成型而使連結紗彎曲 並移位,以致連結部分破壞而產生厚度不均,壓縮復原性不足 之問題。 10 【專利文獻1】特開昭50-100372號公報 【專利文獻2】特開昭55-148267號公報 【專利文獻3】特開平2000-199104號公報 L 明内】 15 發明概要 發明之揭示 發明所欲解決之問題 本發明之目的在提供一種立體構造經編織物,係可解決上 述習知技術之缺點,質感柔軟,具良好壓縮復原性及形狀保持 0 H 了使用於内衣罩杯等衣著’適用於力口熱壓縮成型者。、、 即,本發明可提供一種加熱壓縮成型後之厚度保持性、壓 縮復原性、形狀保持性極佳之立體構造經編織物。 解決問題之方法 (1)本發明係一種立體構造經編織物,係以連結紗連結表背 200522878 之裡地組織並於裡地組織使用彈性紗者,荷重22.06N時之布料 延展性(ductility)於縱橫向皆為30〜150%,伸長率為30%時之布 料遲滯(hysteresis)於縱橫向皆為20~60%。 (2) 又,本發明亦如(1)之立體構造經編織物,其中前述連 5 結紗係使用單紗細度為3〜11 dtex之紗所構成之細度為 3 3 〜11 Odtex 之複絲(multifilament)紗。 (3) 又,本發明亦如(1)或(2)之立體構造經編織物,其中前 述連結紗之支數(表背裡地組織間密布之連結紗之連結支數,以 下亦同)為5500〜24000支/inch2。 10 (4)又,本發明亦如(1)或(2)之立體構造經編織物,其中前 述連結紗之總細度為181500〜2640000dtex/inch2。 (5) 又,本發明亦如(1)或(2)之立體構造經編織物,其中前 述連結紗係由3〜6支之單紗所組成之複絲紗所構成者。 (6) 又,本發明亦如(1)或(2)之立體構造經編織物,其中前 15 述裡地組織之紗圈(loop)數為2000〜4000紗圈/inch2。 (7) 又,本發明亦如(1)或(2)之立體構造經編織物,其中前 述彈性紗係細度為44〜31 Odtex之聚氨酯(polyurethane)彈性紗, 該彈性紗於立體構造經編織物中所占之比例為6〜30%。 (8) 又,本發明亦如(1)或(2)之立體構造經編織物,其織物 20厚度為3〜l〇mm。 發明的效果 本發明可提供相對於加熱壓縮成型時之高溫高壓,可保持 極佳之厚度保持性、形狀保持性、伸縮性、壓縮復原性,且質 200522878 感柔軟,適用於内衣罩杯等衣料之立體構造經編織物。 圖式簡單說明 第1圖係顯示用以織造本發明之立體構造經編織物之裝置 5 例之構成圖。 第2圖係顯示成型之概況之概略圖。 第3圖係第1實施例之立體構造經編織物之組織圖。 第4圖係第2實施例之立體構造經編織物之組織圖。 第5圖係第3實施例之立體構造經編織物之組織圖。 10 第6圖係第4實施例之立體構造經編織物之組織圖。 第7圖係第5實施例之立體構造經編織物之組織圖。 第8圖係第1比較例之立體構造經編織物之組織圖。 第9圖係第2比較例之立體構造經編織物之組織圖。 第10圖係第3比較例之立體構造經編織物之組織圖。 15 第11圖係第4比較例之立體構造經編織物之組織圖。 L實施方式3 較佳實施例之詳細說明 本發明係一種立體構造經編織物,由表背之裡地組織與用 20 以連結該等裡地組織之連結紗所構成,可使用於内衣罩杯等衣 料。本發明之立體構造經編織物係以具有2片(2列)針床之織機 製造,並經雙面拉舍爾針織機、雙面針織機加工而成之三層構 造織物,其中則以藉雙面拉舍爾針織機加工織造者最為廉價, 且製作容易而為最適用者。 200522878 第1圖中略示有藉雙面拉舍爾針織機織造本發明之立體構 造經編織物時之編織要部。該圖中,自各織軸盤頭❻“瓜”丨〜“ 运紗之織紗A1〜A6可分別經織抒L1〜L6之各導紗器 (gmde)Gl〜G6而導紗至織造部分,再由各織抒[1〜]^6與兩織針 5 9、1〇進行預定之編織運動,即可織造立體構造經編織物20。 舉例言之,藉織紗Al、A2可織造用以構成表側織物之表裡地組 織17,藉織紗A5、A6則可織造用以構成背側織物之背裡地組織 18。又,織紗A3、A4則作為連結紗,藉織抒〇、“交互密布 編織於表背之裡地組織18、17上,以連結表背之裡地組織。 1〇 冑述之連結紗,即織紗A3、A4,-如後述之實施例之組 織圖所示,以諸如自表背裡地組織17、18之一方朝另一方密布 時,各以1針或多針程度(以2〜3針為宜)相互朝相反方向橫錯而 以不同角度及/或方向傾斜密布編織者為佳。藉上述織法,連結 於各紗圈之多支連結紗可於不同角度及/或方向上承受厚度方 15向之壓力,故厚度保持性及壓縮復原性極佳。 本發明中,用以構成立體構造經編織物之紗可使用聚酯系 纖維、聚醯胺系纖維、纖維素系再生纖維、聚丙稀纖維、綿、 絲、羊毛等天然纖維等及其等之混纺纖維等,但若講求加熱壓 縮成型性、壓縮復原性、耐洗濯性等形狀保持性、柔軟性等, 20 則宜以聚酯纖維為主體構成。 -如前述,本發明係以賴紗連絲背之裡地組織而成之 立體構造經編織物,其荷重及議時之布料延展性於縱橫向皆 為30〜150%,而以縱向7〇〜15〇%、橫向5〇〜8〇%為宜伸長率為 30%時之布料遲滯則縱橫向皆為2〇〜6〇%。 200522878 布料延展性為30%以下時,壓縮復原性不佳而形狀保持性 可能不足’若大於150%,則布料遲滯將增大,可能導致壓縮復 原性、形狀保持性劣化。又,若布料遲滯小於20%,則成型所 需日守間將增長或須提高溫度,故布料素材可能發生泛黃等問題 5而致脆化。又,若大於60%,則成型後之壓縮復原性可能劣化。 本發明中所謂伸長30%時之遲滯係自以下之式1求得者,其 數值愈大,功率損失(P〇wer loss)愈多,代表壓縮復原性降低而 致升y狀保持性劣化。又,數值愈小,則代表壓縮復原性提高而 使形狀保持性有所改善。 10 (式 1) 3〇%伸長時之布料遲滯(%)=((30%伸長力一 30%緊縮力)+ 30%伸長力)χι〇〇 本發明之立體構造經編織物可藉同時滿足上述之布料延 展性及布料遲滯而擁有極佳之加熱壓縮成型性、壓縮復原性、 15 耐洗濯性等形狀保持性、柔軟性。 又’本發明所使用之連結紗宜使用由單紗細度為3〜lldtex 之紗所構成之細度為33〜llOdtex之複絲紗。若單紗細度為3以〇叉 以下,則纖維之強度及彈性力較弱,故形狀保持性可能劣化, 若大於lldtex,則布料之質地可能硬化而劣化。又,若連、纟士紗 20 之細度為33dtex以下,則纖維之彈性較弱,故形狀保持性可妒 劣化,若大於lldtex,則布料之質地可能硬化而劣化。連於紗 若為單長絲(monofilament),則於成型時施以高溫高壓將導致其 硬化而損及柔軟性,布料之形狀保持性、壓縮復原性亦將劣 化,其並將突出於裡地組織面而影響品質。 10 200522878 本發明中,宜使用單紗細度為3~lldtex之紗所構成之細度 33~110dtex之複絲紗為連結紗,藉此,即便於成型時施以高溫 高壓’亦可藉複數之連結紗以不同角度及/或方向連結表背之裡 地組織,而織造壓縮復原性甚佳之編織物。尤其,藉使用複絲 · 5 紗作為連結紗,與相同細度之單長絲紗相較,即便加熱亦不致 '· 硬化’因此,不易損及布料之柔軟性,且可確保充分之厚度保 · 持性、形狀保持性及壓縮復原性。 進而,前述之複絲紗所構成之連結紗之支數(表背裡地組 織間之連結支數;)為55〇〇〜24〇〇〇支/inch2,而以59〇〇〜2〇〇〇〇支 钃 10 /inch2為佳。若前述連結紗之支數為5500支/inch2以下,則成型 後之布料可能難以確保其厚度,且可能無法確保壓縮復原性及 形狀保持性。又,若前述連結紗之支數大於24〇〇〇/inch2,則可 能損及布料之柔軟性,或於成型時產生皺褶。另,本發明中連 結紗之支數可由下式求得。 15 連結紗之支數=連結於1紗圈之連結支數X (緯圈 (course)/inch)x(經圈(wale)/inch) 又’具以上構造之連結紗之總細度宜為 _ 181500〜2640_dtex/inch2。若連結紗之總細度為i8i5〇〇 dtex/inch2以下,則可能難以確保成型後之布料厚度,或難以確 20保壓縮復原性及形狀保持性。又,若大於264〇〇〇她, . 則可能損及布料之柔軟性,且成型時可能產生敵權。另,本發 , 明之連結紗之總細度可由下式求得。 連…之總細度=連結紗之支數χ連結紗所使用之複絲紗 之細度 11 200522878 進而,本發明之立體構造經編織物之上述連結紗部分之各 紗圈之連結支數宜為前述長絲(filament)紗3〜6支,並以3〜5支為 佳。若為2支以下,則可能損及壓縮復原性,若為7支以上,則 織物可能硬化而損及伸縮性。 5 又,凡具彈性者皆可使用作為本發明所使用之彈性紗。彈 性紗雖可使用聚酯捲縮紗或聚對苯二甲酸丁二醇酉旨 (polybutylene terephthalate)、聚氨酯系彈性紗等周知材料,但 就本發明易於製造具備特定延展性、遲滯之布料之觀點而言, 則宜使用細度為44〜310dtex之聚氨酯系彈性紗,並以 1〇 78〜235dteX之聚氨I系彈性紗為佳。若聚氨酉旨系彈性紗之細度 為44dtex以下,則收縮力不足可能導致壓縮復原性、形狀保持 性劣化,若大於310dteX,則布料之質地可能硬化以致成型性劣 化。進而,前述彈性紗所占立體構造經編織物之比例為6~3〇%, 而以10~20%為佳。若前述彈性紗之比例為6%以下,則收縮力 U不足,可能導致壓縮復原性、形狀保持性之缺之,若超侧%, 則收縮力過大’可能導致布料過重、質地硬化之問題。 又’本發明之裡地組織之紗圈數宜為2_~侧紗圈 /inch2。進而,以·~3_紗圈/ineh2為佳。本發明之前述紗圈 數可由(立體構造經編織物之裡地組織之緯圈數Μ)χ(經圈數 20 /inch)之計算求得。 若紗圈數為2000紗圈/inch2以下,則可能無法確保布料之 細复原性’若大於4_紗圈㈣2’則布料可能硬化而損及伸 縮性,故皆不適宜。 又,由本立體構造經編織物所才冓成之布料厚度宜為 12 200522878 3~1〇mm。若厚度不足3腿,則成型後之厚度不足,可能發生 形狀保持性劣化、損及壓縮復原性、易於透視等問題。又,若 厚度大於10mm,則布料可能過重以致質地劣化。 如上所述,藉將連結紗構造之布料厚度、編織密度等限制 於特定範圍内,即可將布料延展性及遲滯分別控制㈣~12〇% 及2〇~60%之範圍内,故本發明之立體構造經編織物即便經加熱 壓縮成型加工處理,亦具備極佳之厚度保持性,且壓縮復原 性、形狀保持性亦甚為良好。200522878 IX. Description of the invention: I: the technical field of the inventors of households 3 Field of the invention The present invention relates to a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric, more specifically, the system 5 relates to a compression recovery and shape after heating molding. A three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric with excellent retention. L Prior Art 3 Background of the Invention 10 In the past, knitted fabrics used in underwear cups and the like have been designed into a body shape, and generally a three-dimensional shape is formed by sewing. However, this method is time-consuming and requires a high degree of sewing technology. The cost is also high, and there are many disadvantages. In addition, it is inconvenient to see the sewing part of the cup when wearing light-weight clothing. In order to solve these problems, some underwear cups are thermally softened at a temperature around the melting point or softening point of the thermal 15 plastic yarn used in the knitted fabric, and then the thermally softened knitted fabric is pressurized in a mold. It is molded into a suitable shape, that is, it is manufactured by a so-called heating compression molding method or the like. They are used by overlapping foamed polyurethane resin and the like on a knitted fabric. Although they are easier to mold, they have poor air permeability, and they yellow and become brittle over time. 20 In addition, in order to improve the above disadvantages, Patent Document 1 describes underwear cups of a nonwoven fabric molded body fixed with a binder, but it is difficult to sufficiently control the texture due to the use of a binder, and the elasticity is also insufficient. When the depression is deformed, there is almost no compressive restoring force, and the adhesive also has problems such as changes in physical properties over time. In addition, Patent Document 2 describes a product produced by a nonwoven fabric using hot-melt fibers 200522878. It is more flexible and breathable than when using an adhesive resin, but those who use these nonwovens have poor washing durability and have not yet reached a satisfactory level of shape retention and compression recovery. Further, Patent Document 3 describes a wearing molded body which is a three-dimensional hollow cloth in which a surface layer portion and a back layer portion are connected to each other by a connecting yarn constituting 5 intermediate hollow portions, and is heat-compressed into a predetermined shape. Former. Although the washing durability has been improved ', the connection yarn may be bent and displaced due to heating and compression molding, so that the connection portion is broken, causing uneven thickness and insufficient compression recovery. 10 [Patent Document 1] JP-A Sho 50-100372 [Patent Document 2] JP-A Sho 55-148267 [Patent Literature 3] JP-A Hei 2000-199104 L Ming Nai 15 Summary of the Invention Disclosed Inventions of the Invention Problem to be Solved The object of the present invention is to provide a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric, which can solve the shortcomings of the above-mentioned conventional technology. It has a soft texture, good compression recovery and shape retention. It is used in clothing such as underwear cups. Yulikou thermal compression molding. That is, the present invention can provide a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric having excellent thickness retention, compression recovery, and shape retention after heat compression molding. Method for solving the problem (1) The present invention is a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric, which is connected with a connecting yarn to the back surface of the back surface 200522878 and uses an elastic yarn in the back surface. The fabric ductility at a load of 22.06N (ductility) The hysteresis of the fabric at 30% to 150% in the vertical and horizontal directions and the elongation of 30% is 20 to 60% in the vertical and horizontal directions. (2) The present invention is also a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric as in (1), in which the aforementioned 5-knot yarn is composed of a yarn with a single yarn fineness of 3 to 11 dtex and a fineness of 3 3 to 11 Odtex. Multifilament yarn. (3) The present invention is also a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric as in (1) or (2), in which the number of the aforementioned connecting yarns (the number of connecting yarns of the connecting yarns densely intertwined between the front and back tissues, the same applies hereinafter) It is 5500 ~ 24000 pieces / inch2. 10 (4) The present invention is also a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric as in (1) or (2), in which the total fineness of the aforementioned connecting yarn is 181500 to 240,000 dtex / inch2. (5) The present invention is also a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric as in (1) or (2), in which the aforementioned connecting yarn is a multifilament yarn composed of 3 to 6 single yarns. (6) The present invention is also a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric as in (1) or (2), in which the number of loops of the above-mentioned 15-layer structure is 2000 to 4000 yarn loops / inch2. (7) The present invention is also a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric as in (1) or (2), wherein the elastic yarn is a polyurethane elastic yarn having a fineness of 44 to 31 Odtex, and the elastic yarn is in the three-dimensional structure warp. The proportion in the braid is 6 to 30%. (8) The present invention also has a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric as in (1) or (2), in which the thickness of the fabric 20 is 3 to 10 mm. Effects of the Invention The present invention can provide excellent thickness retention, shape retention, stretchability, and compression recovery relative to the high temperature and pressure during heating and compression molding. The product has a soft feel and is suitable for clothing such as underwear cups. Three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric. Brief Description of the Drawings Fig. 1 is a structural diagram showing 5 examples of a device for weaving a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of the present invention. Fig. 2 is a schematic diagram showing the outline of molding. Fig. 3 is an organization diagram of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of the first embodiment. Fig. 4 is an organization diagram of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of the second embodiment. Fig. 5 is an organization diagram of a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric according to the third embodiment. 10 FIG. 6 is an organization diagram of a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric according to the fourth embodiment. Fig. 7 is an organization diagram of a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric according to the fifth embodiment. Fig. 8 is an organization diagram of a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of the first comparative example. Fig. 9 is an organization diagram of a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of a second comparative example. Fig. 10 is an organization diagram of a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of a third comparative example. 15 FIG. 11 is an organization diagram of a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of the fourth comparative example. L Embodiment 3 Detailed description of the preferred embodiment The present invention is a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric, which is composed of a back surface of the ground structure and a connecting yarn using 20 to connect the ground structure, and can be used for underwear cups, etc. Lining. The three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of the present invention is a three-layer structure fabric manufactured by using a loom having two (two rows) needle beds and processed by a double-sided Raschel knitting machine and a double-sided knitting machine. The double-sided Raschel knitting machine is the cheapest and most suitable for easy fabrication. 200522878 In the first figure, the main parts of knitting when the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric of the present invention is woven by a double-sided Raschel knitting machine are shown in outline. In this figure, from the head of each weaving shaft to the "melon" 丨 ~ "The yarns A1 ~ A6 for carrying yarn can be woven through the yarn guides (gmde) G1 ~ G6 of L1 ~ L6, and then guided to the weaving part, and then Each knitted [1 ~] ^ 6 and two knitting needles 5 9 and 10 perform a predetermined knitting motion, and a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 20 can be woven. For example, the woven yarns Al and A2 can be woven to form the front side The surface texture 17 of the fabric can be woven with the woven yarns A5 and A6 to form the back texture 18 of the back fabric. The woven yarns A3 and A4 are used as the connection yarn, and the woven fabric is expressed by “0. The back surface is organized on 18 and 17 to connect the back surface. The joint yarns described in 10, that is, the woven yarns A3 and A4,-as shown in the organization chart of the embodiment described later, when one of the 17, 17, 18 from the back surface is densely spread toward the other, each with 1 stitch or The degree of multiple stitches (preferably 2 to 3 stitches) is preferably staggered in opposite directions and inclined at a different angle and / or direction. With the above weaving method, a plurality of connected yarns connected to each yarn loop can withstand pressure in a thickness of 15 directions at different angles and / or directions, so the thickness retention and compression recovery are excellent. In the present invention, polyester-based fibers, polyamide-based fibers, cellulose-based recycled fibers, polypropylene fibers, natural fibers such as cotton, silk, and wool, and the like can be used as the yarn for constituting the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric. Blended fibers and the like, but if shape retention, flexibility, etc., such as heat-compression moldability, compression resilience, and washing resistance, are required, 20 polyester fibers are preferred. -As mentioned above, the present invention is a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric composed of rayon and silk back. The load and the stretchability of the cloth at the time are 30 to 150% in the vertical and horizontal directions, and 70% in the longitudinal direction. ~ 15%, 50 ~ 80% in the transverse direction is suitable when the elongation is 30%, the hysteresis of the cloth is 20 ~ 60% in both the longitudinal and horizontal directions. 200522878 When the ductility of the fabric is less than 30%, the compression resilience is poor and the shape retention may be insufficient. 'If it is greater than 150%, the fabric hysteresis will increase, which may result in deterioration of compression reversion and shape retention. In addition, if the hysteresis of the fabric is less than 20%, the time required for molding will increase or the temperature must be increased, so the fabric material may have problems such as yellowing 5 and become brittle. If it is more than 60%, the compression recovery property after molding may be deteriorated. In the present invention, the hysteresis at the elongation of 30% is obtained from Equation 1 below. The larger the value, the more power loss (Power loss), which means that the compression resilience is reduced and the retention of the y-shape is deteriorated. The smaller the value, the better the compression resilience and the better the shape retention. 10 (Formula 1) Cloth hysteresis at 30% elongation (%) = ((30% elongation force-30% tightening force) + 30% elongation force) χι〇〇 The three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of the present invention can be simultaneously satisfied by The aforementioned fabric stretchability and fabric stagnation have excellent shape retention and softness such as heat-compression moldability, compression recovery, and 15 washability. It is also preferable to use a multifilament yarn having a fineness of 33 to 110 dtex, which is composed of a yarn having a single yarn fineness of 3 to 11 dtex. If the fineness of the single yarn is 3 or less, the strength and elasticity of the fiber will be weak, so the shape retention may be deteriorated. If it is greater than 11dtex, the texture of the cloth may be hardened and deteriorated. In addition, if the fineness of Lian and Yarn 20 is 33 dtex or less, the elasticity of the fiber is weak, so the shape retention can be jealously deteriorated. If it is larger than lldtex, the texture of the cloth may be hardened and deteriorated. If the connected yarn is monofilament, applying high temperature and high pressure during molding will cause it to harden and impair its softness. The shape retention and compression recovery of the fabric will also deteriorate, and it will stand out in the ground. Organizational aspects affect quality. 10 200522878 In the present invention, a multifilament yarn with a fineness of 33 ~ 110dtex composed of a yarn with a single yarn fineness of 3 ~ lldtex should be used as the connecting yarn, so that even if high temperature and high pressure are applied during molding, a plurality of yarns can be borrowed The connecting yarns are connected to the back and front tissues at different angles and / or directions, and weave a knitted fabric with excellent compression and recovery. In particular, by using multifilament · 5 yarn as the connection yarn, compared with single-filament yarn of the same fineness, it will not "harden" even when heated. Therefore, it does not easily damage the softness of the fabric, and can ensure sufficient thickness. · Sustainability, shape retention and compression recovery. Furthermore, the number of connecting yarns (the number of connecting yarns between the structure on the front and back;) of the multifilament yarn is 550,000 to 240,000 pieces / inch2, and 5900 to 20.00 〇〇 钃 10 / inch2 is preferred. If the number of the aforementioned connection yarns is 5500 counts / inch2 or less, it may be difficult to ensure the thickness of the fabric after molding, and the compression resilience and shape retention may not be ensured. In addition, if the number of the aforementioned connecting yarns is more than 240,000 / inch2, the softness of the cloth may be impaired, or wrinkles may occur during molding. In addition, the number of ties in the present invention can be obtained by the following formula. 15 Number of connected yarns = number of connected yarns connected to 1 yarn loop X (course / inch) x (wale / inch) Also the total fineness of the yarn with the above structure should be _ 181500 ~ 2640_dtex / inch2. If the total fineness of the connecting yarn is i8i500 dtex / inch2 or less, it may be difficult to ensure the thickness of the fabric after molding, or it may be difficult to ensure compression recovery and shape retention. In addition, if it is larger than 264,000,000, the softness of the cloth may be impaired, and hostility may be generated during molding. In addition, the total fineness of the bound yarn of the present invention can be obtained from the following formula. The total fineness of connected = the number of connected yarns x the fineness of the multifilament yarn used for the connected yarn 11 200522878 Furthermore, the number of connected yarns in the above-mentioned connected yarn portion of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of the present invention should be appropriate The filament yarn is 3 to 6 pieces, and preferably 3 to 5 pieces. If it is 2 or less, the compression resilience may be impaired, and if it is 7 or more, the fabric may be hardened and the elasticity may be impaired. 5 Also, any elastic yarn can be used as the elastic yarn used in the present invention. Although known materials such as polyester crimped yarn, polybutylene terephthalate, and polyurethane-based elastic yarn can be used for the elastic yarn, in terms of the present invention, it is easy to produce a cloth having specific ductility and retardation. In terms of preference, a polyurethane elastic yarn with a fineness of 44 to 310 dtex is preferred, and a polyurethane I elastic yarn of 1078 to 235 dteX is preferred. If the fineness of the polyurethane yarn is 44 dtex or less, insufficient shrinkage force may result in deterioration of compression resilience and shape retention. If it is more than 310 dteX, the texture of the fabric may be hardened to deteriorate moldability. Furthermore, the proportion of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric occupied by the elastic yarn is preferably 6 to 30%, and more preferably 10 to 20%. If the ratio of the aforementioned elastic yarn is 6% or less, the shrinkage force U is insufficient, which may lead to a lack of compression resilience and shape retention. If it exceeds the%, the shrinkage force is too large, which may cause problems such as excessive weight and hardened texture. Also, the number of yarn loops of the present invention is preferably 2_ ~ side yarn loops / inch2. Furthermore, it is preferable to use ~~ 3_ yarn loop / ineh2. The aforementioned number of yarn loops of the present invention can be obtained by calculating (the number of weft loops M of the inner structure of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric) x (the number of warp loops 20 / inch). If the number of yarn loops is less than 2000 yarn loops / inch2, the fine recovery of the fabric may not be ensured. If the number of yarn loops is greater than 4_yarn loop 2, the fabric may be hardened and the stretchability may be impaired. In addition, the thickness of the cloth formed from the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric is preferably 12 200522878 3 to 10 mm. If the thickness is less than three legs, the thickness after molding may be insufficient, and problems such as deterioration in shape retention, loss of compression resilience, and ease of see-through may occur. Also, if the thickness is more than 10 mm, the cloth may be too heavy to deteriorate the texture. As described above, by limiting the cloth thickness and knitting density of the connecting yarn structure to a specific range, the ductility and hysteresis of the cloth can be controlled within the range of ㈣120% and 20-60%, respectively. Therefore, the present invention The three-dimensional structure warp-knitted fabric has excellent thickness retention even when subjected to heat compression molding processing, and has excellent compression recovery and shape retention.
【實施例】 以下,列舉本發明之實施例與比較例,以具體說明本發 明。惟,本發明並不限於以下之實施例。 【評價方法】 1.延展性 使用自動立體測圖儀(autograph)(株式會社島津製作所製 15 造)’將成型前之試料(長250mmx寬25mm)之樣本初步設定成在[Examples] Examples and comparative examples of the present invention will be listed below to specifically describe the present invention. However, the present invention is not limited to the following examples. [Evaluation method] 1. Ductility Using an autograph (made by Shimadzu Corporation 15), a sample of a sample (length 250mm x width 25mm) before molding is set to
失頭間為100mm,並以300mm/min之速度予以伸展,以測定荷 重22.06N時之延展性。 2.布料遲滯 使用自動立體測圖儀(株式會社島津製作所製作),將成型 前之試料(長250mmx寬25mm)之樣本初步設定成在夾頭間為 100mm,並以300mm/min之速度予以伸展至140mm(伸長40%), 而後再消除荷重以令其回復。重複上述作業3次,自第3次之SS 曲線讀取伸長30%時之荷重(30%伸長力)與回復30%時之荷重 (30%緊縮力)並藉下式進行計算。遲滯值(%)愈小,則壓縮復原 13 200522878 性愈佳。 伸長30%時之布料遲滯(%)=((3〇%伸長力—3〇%緊縮力产 30%伸長力)xl〇〇 3.壓縮復元性 5 使用壓縮試驗機(加藤科技株式會社製KES-G5)進行試 驗,以就將藉30g/cm2之荷重、imm/秒之速度成型後之立體構 造經編織物壓縮及令其回復時之力與距離繪成SS曲線,再以壓 縮回彈(resilience)值(%)代表壓縮時之力之合計值(WC)與回復 時之力之合計值(WC,,)。數值愈大,代表壓縮回復性愈佳。 10 壓縮回彈值(%)=WC,,(gf · cm/cm2)+WC(gf · cm/cm2)xl〇〇 4·形狀保持性(耐洗濯性) 根據JIS-L-1096Ε法,計測成型後之罩杯經洗濯1 〇次後之高 度變化。 15 <第1實施例> 如第3圖所示,使用雙面拉舍爾針織機 (RD6DPLM-77E-28G:MAYER公司製),於織抒L1 使用 78dtex之 聚氨酯彈性紗,並於織抒L2使用56dtex/24f之聚酯紗織造表側 裡地組織,又,於織抒L5使用56dtex/24f之聚酯紗,並於織抒 20 L6使用78dtex之聚氨酯彈性紗織造背側裡地組織,連結紗則於 織抒L3使用撚製2支33dtex/6f之聚酯紗而成之66dtex/12f者,並 於織抒L4使用33dtex/6f之聚酯紗,而連結表背之裡地組織以織 造52緯圈34經圈(每吋間)、寬141cm之立體構造經編織物。對已 製得之立體構造經編織物施以60秒、185 °C之預定型加工 14 200522878 (presetting)後,再以13〇t染色20分鐘,乾燥後,再以16〇。〇進 行最終定型處理100秒,即製成60緯圈40經圈(每吋間)、厚 5.0mm'寬120cm之立體構造經編織物。 本立體構造經編織物之延展性於縱向為74%、橫向為 · 5 43%。又,伸長30%時之布料遲滯於縱向為29.1%、橫向為 、 54.2%。 . 立體構造經編織物之表背裡地組織之紗圈密度為24〇〇個 /inch2、連結紗之支數(表背裡地組織間密布之連結紗部分之支 數)為7200支/inch2,連結紗之總細度為2376〇〇dtex/inch2。 10 對已製成之立體構造經編織物20再使用第2圖所示之成型 機,而予以夾置於模具19與模具21間,在荷重2t、溫度200°C、 60秒之條件下,實施加熱壓縮成型加工以形成直徑十公分之半 球狀,再評價其壓縮復原性及形狀保持性。評價結果顯示於表 15 <第2實施例> 如第4圖所示,使用雙面拉舍爾針織機 (RD6DPLM-77E-28G:MAYER公司製),於織抒L1 使用 78dtex之 聚氨酯彈性紗,並於織抒L2使用56dtex/24f之聚酯紗織造表側 20 裡地組織,且,於織抒L5使用56dtex/24f之聚酯紗,並於織抒 L6使用78dtex之聚氨酯彈性紗織造背側裡地組織,連結紗則於 織抒L3、織抒L4使用撚製2支33dtex/6f之聚酯紗而成之 66dtex/12f者,而連結表背之裡地組織以織造50緯圈36經圈(母 吋間)、寬133cm之立體構造經編織物。對已製得之立體構造經 15 200522878 編織物施以60秒、185°C之預定型加工後,再以130°C染色20分 鐘,乾燥後,再以160°C進行最終定型處理100秒,即製成60緯 圈40經圈(每吋間)、厚5.0mm、寬120cm之立體構造經編織物。 本立體構造經編織物之延展性於縱向為82%、橫向為 “ 5 48%。又,伸長30%時之布料遲滯於縱向為26.4%、橫向為 ’ · 48.0%。 * 本立體構造經編織物之裡地組織之紗圈密度為2400個 /inch2、連結紗之支數為9600支/inch2,連結紗之總細度為 316800dtex/inch2 ° | 10 對已製成之立體構造經編織物,以第1實施例之相同條件 實施加熱壓縮成型加工,再評價其壓縮復原性及形狀保持性。 評價結果顯示於表1。 <第3實施例> 15 如第5圖所示,使用雙面拉舍爾針織機 (RD6DPLM-77E-28G:MAYER公司製),於織抒L1 使用 130dtex 之聚氨酯彈性紗,並於織抒L2使用56dtex/24f之聚酯紗織造表 · 側裡地組織,且,於織抒L5使用56dtex/24f之聚酯紗,並於織 抒L6使用130dtex之聚氨酯彈性紗織造背側裡地組織,連結紗則 20 於織抒L3使用樵製2支3 3dtex/6f之聚酯紗而成之66dtex/12f者, 並於織抒L4使用33dtex/6f之聚酯紗,而連結表背裡地組織以織 · 造58緯圈36經圈(每吋間)、寬146cm之立體構造經編織物。對已 製得之立體構造經編織物施以60秒、185°C之預定型加工後, 再以130°C染色2〇分鐘,乾燥後,再以16〇°C進行最終定型處理 16 200522878 100秒,即製成70緯圈44經圈(每吋間)、厚5.0mm、寬120cm之 立體構造經編織物。 本立體構造經編織物之延展性於縱向為96%、橫向為 55%。又,伸長30%時之布料遲滯於縱向為22.4%、橫向為 < 5 40.5%。 ' * 本立體構造經編織物之裡地組織之紗圈密度為3080個 ' /inch2、連結紗之支數為9240支/inch2,連結紗之總細度為 304920dtex/inch2。 對已製成之立體構造經編織物,以第1實施例之相同條件 _ 10 實施加熱壓縮成型加工,再評價其壓縮復原性及形狀保持性。 評價結果顯示於表1。 <第4實施例> 如第6圖所示,使用雙面拉舍爾針織機 15 (RD6DPLM-77E-28G:MAYER公司製),於織抒L1 使用 44dtex之 聚氨酯彈性紗,並於織抒L2使用56dtex/24f之聚酯紗織造表側 裡地組織,且,於織抒L5使用56dtex/24f之聚酯紗,並於織抒 · L6使用44dtex之聚氨酯彈性紗織造背侧裡地組織,連結紗則於 織抒L3使用撚製2支33dtex/6f之聚酯紗而成之66dtex/12f者,並 20 於織抒L4使用33dtex/6f之聚酯紗,而連結表背裡地組織以織造 51緯圈34經圈(每吋間)、寬141cm之立體構造經編織物。對已製 _ 得之立體構造經編織物施以60秒、185°C之預定型加工後,再 以130°C染色20分鐘,乾燥後,再以160°C進行最終定型處理100 秒,即製成60緯圈40經圈(每吋間)、厚5.0mm、寬120cm之立體 17 200522878 構造經編織物。前述用以織造裡地組織之織抒Ll、L6係分別就 各緯圈橫錯2針程度而編織形成針織紗圈者。 本立體構造經編織物之延展性於縱向為77%、橫向為 47%。又,伸長3〇%時之布料遲滯於縱向為27.4%、橫向為 ^ 5 51.2%。 · · 立體構造經編織物之裡地組織之紗圈密度為2400個 ‘ /inch2、連結紗之支數為7200支/inch2,連結紗之總細度為 237600dtex/inch2。 對已製成之立體構造經編織物,以第1實施例之相同條件 _ 10 實施加熱壓縮成型加工,再評價其回彈性及形狀保持性。評價 結果顯不於表1。 <第5實施例> 如第7圖所示,使用雙面拉舍爾針織機 15 (RD6DPLM-77E-28G:MAYER公司製),於織抒L1 使用 78dtex之 聚氨酯彈性紗,並於織抒L2使用56dtex/24f之聚酯紗織造表側 裡地組織,且,於織抒L5使用56dtex/24f之聚酯紗,並於織抒 參 L6使用78dtex之聚氨酯彈性紗織造背側裡地組織,連結紗則於 織抒L3與織抒L4使用撚製2支33dtex/6f之聚酯紗而成之 20 66dtex/12f者,而連結表背裡地組織以織造51緯圈34經圈(每口寸 間)、寬129cm之立體構造經編織物。對已製得之立體構造經編 · 織物施以60秒、185。(:之預定型加工後,再以130。(:染色20分 鐘,乾燥後,再以16〇°C進行最終定型處理100秒,即製成60緯 圈40經圈(每吋間)、厚5.0mm、寬110cm之立體構造經編織物。 18 200522878 本立體構造經編織物之延展性於縱向為97%、橫向為63%。又, 伸長30%時之布料遲滯於縱向為43.3%、橫向為63%。 又’本立體構造經編織物之裡地組織之紗圈密度為2400個 /inch2、連結紗之支數為9600支/inch2,連結紗之總細度為 · 5 316800dtex/inch2。 ’ · 對已製成之立體構造經編織物,以第1實施例之相同條件 - 實施加熱壓縮成型加工,再評價其壓縮復原性及形狀保持性。 評價結果顯示於表1。 « 10 <第1比較例> 如第8圖所示,使用雙面拉舍爾針織機 (RD6DPLM-77E-28G:MAYER公司製),於織抒L1 使用 44dtex之 聚氨酯彈性紗,並於織抒L2使用56dtex/24f之聚酯紗織造表側 裡地組織,且,於織杼L5使用56dtex/24f之聚酯紗,並於織抒 15 L6使用44dtex之聚氨酯彈性紗織造背側裡地組織,連結紗則於 織杼L3與織抒L4使用33dtex/6f之聚酯紗,而連結表背裡地組織 以織造46緯圈32經圈(每吋間)、寬142cm之立體構造經編織物。 · 對已製得之立體構造經編織物施以60秒、185°C之預定型加工 後,再以130°C染色20分鐘,乾燥後,再以160°C進行最終定型 20 處理100秒,即製成55緯圈38經圈(每吋間)、厚5.0mm、寬12〇^11 _ 之立體構造經編織物。 - 本立體構造經編織物之延展性於縱向為70%、橫向為 39%。又,伸長30%時之布料遲滯於縱向為56.8%、橫向為 71.4%。 19 200522878 又,本立體構造經編織物之裡地組織之紗圈密度為1872個 /inch2、連結紗之支數為3744支/inch2,連結紗之總細度為 123552dtex/inch2 〇 對已製成之立體構造經編織物,以第1實施例之相同條件 5 實施加熱壓縮成型加工,再評價其壓縮復原性及形狀保持性。 評價結果顯示於表1。 <第2比較例>The gap between the heads is 100mm, and it is stretched at a speed of 300mm / min to measure the ductility at a load of 22.06N. 2. The fabric hysteresis uses an autostereograph (made by Shimadzu Corporation). The sample of the sample (250mm x 25mm) before molding is initially set to 100mm between the chucks and stretched at a speed of 300mm / min. To 140mm (40% elongation), and then remove the load to restore it. Repeat the above operation three times, and read the load at 30% elongation (30% elongation force) and the load at 30% recovery (30% contraction force) from the SS curve of the third time, and calculate it by the following formula. The smaller the hysteresis value (%), the better the compression recovery. Hysteresis of fabric at elongation of 30% (%) = ((30% elongation force-30% contraction force to produce 30% elongation force) x 1003. Compression recovery 5 Using a compression tester (KES manufactured by Kato Technology Co., Ltd.) -G5) Perform a test to draw the SS curve of the force and distance when the three-dimensional structure warp-knitted fabric that is formed by borrowing a load of 30g / cm2 and a speed of imm / sec is compressed, and then rebound ( Resilience value (%) represents the total value of the force (WC) during compression and the total value (WC ,,) of the force during recovery. The larger the value, the better the compression resilience. 10 Compression rebound value (%) = WC ,, (gf · cm / cm2) + WC (gf · cm / cm2) x 104. Shape retention (washing resistance) According to the JIS-L-1096E method, the cup after washing is measured for washing 1 〇 The height after the second change. 15 < First Embodiment > As shown in FIG. 3, a double-sided Raschel knitting machine (RD6DPLM-77E-28G: manufactured by MAYER) was used, and 78 dtex polyurethane was used for the weaving L1. Elastic yarn, weaving on the front and back using 56dtex / 24f polyester yarn for weaving L2, and 56dtex / 24f polyester yarn for weaving L5, and 20 L6 for weaving Polyurethane elastic yarn of 78dtex is used to weave the back and inside structure, and the connecting yarn is 66dtex / 12f which is made by twisting two polyester yarns of 33dtex / 6f in L3, and 33dtex / 6f is used in L4. Polyester yarn, and the inner structure of the back of the table weaving a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric with 52 weft loops, 34 warp loops (each inch), and a width of 141 cm. The prepared three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric is subjected to 60 seconds, 185 ° C 14 200522878 (presetting), dyeing at 13t for 20 minutes, drying, and then final setting treatment at 16.0 for 100 seconds, that is to make 60 weft loops 40 warp loops (each Inches), 5.0mm 'thick 120cm wide three-dimensional structure warp knit fabric. The three-dimensional structure warp knit fabric has a ductility of 74% in the longitudinal direction and 5 43% in the transverse direction. Moreover, the cloth lags in the longitudinal direction when it is stretched by 30%. It is 29.1%, and the horizontal direction is 54.2%.. The density of the loops on the back of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric is 2400 / inch2, and the number of connected yarns. The number of parts) is 7200 pieces / inch2, and the total fineness of the connecting yarn is 2376〇dtex / inch2. 10 pairs have been made The three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 20 is then sandwiched between the mold 19 and the mold 21 using the molding machine shown in FIG. 2, and subjected to a heat compression molding process under a condition of a load of 2 t, a temperature of 200 ° C, and 60 seconds. A hemispherical shape with a diameter of ten centimeters was formed, and the compression resilience and shape retention were evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 15 < Second Example > As shown in FIG. 4, a double-sided Raschel knitting machine (RD6DPLM-77E-28G: manufactured by MAYER) was used, and 78 dtex polyurethane elasticity was used for the weaving L1. Yarn, and weaving on the front side with a polyester yarn of 56 dtex / 24f in weaving L2, and weaving the back side with polyester yarn of 56 dtex / 24f in weaving L5, and a polyurethane elastic yarn of 78 dtex in weaving L6. Side-to-side texture, weaving yarn is used for weaving L3 and Weaving L4 using 66dtex / 12f made by twisting two polyester yarns of 33dtex / 6f, and weaving 50 weft loops 36 on the inside and back Warp loop (mother inch), three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric with a width of 133cm. The prepared three-dimensional structure was subjected to a predetermined processing of 60 seconds and 185 ° C for 15 200522878 knitted fabric, and then dyed at 130 ° C for 20 minutes. After drying, the final setting treatment was performed at 160 ° C for 100 seconds. That is, a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric with 60 warp loops and 40 warp loops (each inch), 5.0 mm thick and 120 cm wide is manufactured. The ductility of this three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric is 82% in the longitudinal direction and "5 48% in the horizontal direction. Moreover, the cloth with a 30% elongation has a retardation of 26.4% in the longitudinal direction and 48.0% in the horizontal direction. * The three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric The density of the loops in the fabric of the fabric is 2400 / inch2, the number of connected yarns is 9600 / inch2, and the total fineness of the connected yarn is 316800dtex / inch2 ° | 10 pairs of manufactured three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabrics, The heat compression molding process was performed under the same conditions as in the first example, and the compression resilience and shape retention were evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1. < Third Example > 15 As shown in FIG. Surface Raschel knitting machine (RD6DPLM-77E-28G: manufactured by MAYER). Weaving table and side structure with 130dtex polyurethane elastic yarn for Weaving L1 and 56dtex / 24f polyester yarn for Weaving L2. Also, weaving L5 uses 56dtex / 24f polyester yarn, and weaving L6 uses 130dtex polyurethane elastic yarn for weaving the back and inside structure, and weaving yarn 20 uses weaving L3 for two 3 3dtex / 6f. Polyester yarn made of 66dtex / 12f, and weaving L4 uses 33dtex / 6f polyester The three-dimensional structure warp-knitted fabric with 58 weft loops, 36 warp loops (each inch), and a width of 146 cm is connected to the back of the ground. The three-dimensional structured warp-knitted fabric is applied for 60 seconds at 185 ° After processing the predetermined shape of C, it is dyed at 130 ° C for 20 minutes. After drying, it is finally finalized at 160 ° C. 16 200522878 100 seconds, it is made into 70 weft loops, 44 warp loops (each inch), A three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric with a thickness of 5.0 mm and a width of 120 cm. The three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric has a ductility of 96% in the longitudinal direction and 55% in the horizontal direction. Moreover, the cloth lags 30% in the longitudinal direction and 22.4% in the horizontal direction. < 5 40.5%. '* The density of the yarn loops in the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric is 3,080' / inch2, the number of connected yarns is 9,240 / inch2, and the total fineness of the connected yarn is 304920dtex / inch2 The finished three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric was subjected to heat compression molding under the same conditions as in the first embodiment, and then the compression resilience and shape retention were evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1. < No. 4 Example > As shown in FIG. 6, a double-sided Raschel knitting machine 15 (RD6DPLM-77E-28G: MA (Made by YER company), weaving on L1 using 44dtex polyurethane elastic yarn, and weaving on L2 using 56dtex / 24f polyester yarn to weave the front and back, and weaving on L5 using 56dtex / 24f polyester yarn, In L6, we used 44dtex polyurethane elastic yarn to weave the back and inside structure, while weaving in L3, we used 66dtex / 12f, which was made by twisting two 33dtex / 6f polyester yarns, and 20 in weaving. L4 uses a polyester yarn of 33dtex / 6f, and weaves a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric with 51 weft loops, 34 warp loops (each inch) and a width of 141cm. The prepared three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric is subjected to a predetermined processing of 60 seconds and 185 ° C, and then dyed at 130 ° C for 20 minutes. After drying, the final setting treatment is performed at 160 ° C for 100 seconds, that is, A 60-weft loop with 40 warp loops (per inch), a 5.0mm thick and 120cm wide three-dimensional 17 200522878 structure warp knitted fabric. The above-mentioned weaving fabrics Ll and L6 for weaving the inner structure are knitting yarn loops which are knitted about 2 stitches of each weft. The ductility of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric is 77% in the longitudinal direction and 47% in the horizontal direction. In addition, when the elongation was 30%, the hysteresis of the fabric was 27.4% in the longitudinal direction and ^ 5 51.2% in the horizontal direction. · The three-dimensional structure warp knitting fabric has a loop density of 2400 ‘/ inch2, the number of connected yarns is 7,200, and the total fineness of the connected yarn is 237600dtex / inch2. The finished three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric was subjected to heat compression molding under the same conditions _ 10 of the first embodiment, and its resilience and shape retention were evaluated. The evaluation results are not shown in Table 1. < Fifth embodiment > As shown in Fig. 7, a double-sided Raschel knitting machine 15 (RD6DPLM-77E-28G: manufactured by MAYER) was used, and 78 dtex polyurethane elastic yarn was used for the weaving L1, and The L2 uses 56dtex / 24f polyester yarn to weave the front and back tissues, and the weaving L5 uses 56dtex / 24f polyester yarn to weave the back and back tissues, and the weaving parameter L6 uses 78dtex polyurethane elastic yarn to weave the backside texture. The connecting yarn is 20 66dtex / 12f, which is made by twisting two 33dtex / 6f polyester yarns in Weaving L3 and Weaving L4, and weaving 51 weft loops 34 warp loops (each mouth) Inch), three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric with a width of 129cm. The three-dimensional structured warp knit fabric obtained was subjected to 185 for 60 seconds. (: After the predetermined shape processing, then 130. (: dyeing for 20 minutes, after drying, and then final setting treatment at 160 ° C for 100 seconds, that is to make 60 weft loops 40 warp loops (each inch), thick 5.0mm, 110cm wide three-dimensional structure warp knit fabric. 18 200522878 The three-dimensional structure warp knit fabric has a ductility of 97% in the longitudinal direction and a 63% in the transverse direction. Moreover, the cloth lags 30% in the longitudinal direction with a lag of 43.3% in the longitudinal direction and a horizontal direction It is 63%. Also, the density of the yarn loop in the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric is 2400 pcs / inch2, the number of connected yarns is 9600 pcs / inch2, and the total fineness of the connected yarn is 5 316800dtex / inch2. '· For the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric, the same conditions as in the first embodiment were performed-the heat compression molding process was performed, and the compression resilience and shape retention were evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1. «10 < First Comparative Example As shown in FIG. 8, a double-sided Raschel knitting machine (RD6DPLM-77E-28G: manufactured by MAYER) was used, and 44 dtex polyurethane elastic yarn was used for weaving L1 and used for weaving L2 56dtex / 24f polyester yarn is woven on the front and back, and 56dtex / 2 is used for woven L5 Polyester yarn of 4f, and weaving on the back side of the weaving 15 L6 using 44dtex polyurethane elastic yarn. The connecting yarn is used on the weaving reed L3 and weaving L4 using 33dtex / 6f polyester yarn, and the back of the back The ground weaves a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric with 46 weft loops, 32 warp loops (each inch), and a width of 142 cm. · After the prepared three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric is subjected to a predetermined processing of 60 seconds and 185 ° C, After dyeing at 130 ° C for 20 minutes, after drying, the final setting is performed at 160 ° C for 20 seconds. It is made into 55 weft loops, 38 warp loops (each inch), thickness 5.0mm, width 12〇 ^ 11 _ Warp knitted fabric with three-dimensional structure.-The ductility of the warp knitted fabric with three-dimensional structure is 70% in the longitudinal direction and 39% in the transverse direction. Moreover, the fabric lags 30% when stretched to 56.8% in the longitudinal direction and 71.4% in the transverse direction. 19 200522878 In addition, the density of the yarn loops in the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric is 1872 / inch2, the number of connected yarns is 3,744 / inch2, and the total fineness of the connected yarn is 123552dtex / inch2. The warp knitted fabric was structured, and subjected to heat compression molding under the same conditions 5 as in the first embodiment, and the compression was evaluated. Immunogenicity and shape retention property evaluation results are shown in Table 1. <. Comparative Example 2 >
如第9圖所示,使用雙面拉舍爾針織機 10 (RD6DPLM-77E-28G:MAYER公司製),於織抒L1 使用 44dtex之 聚氨酯彈性紗,並於織抒L2使用56dtex/24f之聚酯紗織造表側 裡地組織,且,於織抒L5使用56dtex/24f之聚酯紗,並於織抒 L6使用44dtex之聚氨酯彈性紗織造背側裡地組織,連結紗則於 織抒L3使用33dtex/lf之聚酯紗,而連結表背裡地組織以織造45 15 緯圈32經圈(每吋間)、寬135cm之立體構造經編織物。對已製得 之立體構造經編織物施以60秒、185°C之預定型加工後,再以 130°C染色20分鐘,乾燥後,再以160°C進行最終定型處理1〇〇 秒,即製成55緯圈38經圈(每吋間)、厚5.0mm、寬120cm之立體 構造經編織物。 20 本立體構造經編織物之延展性於縱向為77%、橫向為 52%。又,伸長30%時之布料遲滯於縱向為50.2%、橫向為 66.7%。 又,本立體構造經編織物之裡地組織之紗圈密度為1908個 /inch2、連結紗之支數為1908支/inch2,連結紗之總細度為 20 200522878 62964dtex/inch2 ° 對已製成之立體構造經編織物,以第1實施例之相同條件 實施加熱壓縮成型加工,再評價其壓縮復原性及形狀保持性。 評價結果顯示於表1。 <第3比較例> 如第10圖所示,使用雙面拉舍爾針織機 (RD6DPLM-77E-28G:MAYER公司製),於織抒L1 使用 44dtex之As shown in Fig. 9, a double-sided Raschel knitting machine 10 (RD6DPLM-77E-28G: manufactured by MAYER) was used, and 44dtex polyurethane elastic yarn was used for weaving L1, and 56dtex / 24f was used for weaving L2. Ester yarns are woven on the front and back, and weaving L5 uses 56dtex / 24f polyester yarns, and weaving on L6 uses 44dtex polyurethane elastic yarns to weave the back and on the weaves, while connecting yarns use 33dtex on weaving L3 / lf is a polyester yarn, and weaving a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric with 45 15 weft loops, 32 warp loops (each inch), and a 135cm width. The prepared three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric is subjected to a predetermined processing of 60 seconds and 185 ° C, and then dyed at 130 ° C for 20 minutes. After drying, the final setting treatment is performed at 160 ° C for 100 seconds. That is to make a three-dimensional warp knitted fabric with 55 weft loops and 38 warp loops (each inch), 5.0mm thick and 120cm wide. 20 The ductility of this three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric is 77% in the longitudinal direction and 52% in the horizontal direction. In addition, the lag of the fabric when stretched by 30% was 50.2% in the longitudinal direction and 66.7% in the horizontal direction. In addition, the density of the yarn loop in the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric is 1908 pcs / inch2, the number of connected yarns is 1908 pcs / inch2, and the total fineness of the connected yarn is 20 200522878 62964dtex / inch2 ° The three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric was subjected to a heat compression molding process under the same conditions as in the first embodiment, and the compression resilience and shape retention were evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1. < Comparative Example 3 > As shown in Fig. 10, a double-sided Raschel knitting machine (RD6DPLM-77E-28G: manufactured by MAYER) was used, and 44 dtex
聚氨酯彈性紗,並於織抒L2使用84dtex/36f之聚酯紗織造表側 10 裡地組織,且,於織抒L5使用84dtex/36f之聚酯紗,並於織抒 L6使用44dtex之聚氨酯彈性紗織造背側裡地組織,連結紗則於 織抒L3、織抒L4使用56dtex/24f之聚酯紗,而連結表背裡地組 織以織造47緯圈32經圈(每吋間)、寬135cm之立體構造經編織 物。對已製得之立體構造經編織物施以60秒、185。(:之預定型 15 加工後,再以130°C染色20分鐘,乾燥後,再以160°C進行最終 定型處理100秒,即製成56緯圈36經圈(每吋間)、厚5.〇mrn、寬 120cm之立體構造經編織物。 本立體構造經編織物之延展性於縱向為48%、橫向為 41%。又,伸長30%時之布料遲滯於縱向為60.7%、橫向為 20 74.0%。 又,本立體構造經編織物之裡地組織之紗圈密度為189〇個 /inch2、連結紗之支數為3780支/inch2,連結紗之總細度為 211680dtex/inch2 ° 對已製成之立體構造經編織物,以第1實施例之相同條件 21 200522878 實施加熱壓縮成型加工,再評價其壓縮復原性及形狀保持性。 評價結果顯示於表1。 <第4比較例> — 5 如第11圖所示,使用雙面拉舍爾針織機 - (RD6DPLM-77E-28G:MAYER公司製),於織抒L1 使用 33dtex之 * 聚氨酯彈性紗,並於織抒L2使用56dtex/24f之聚酯紗織造表側 裡地組織,且,於織抒L5使用56dtex/24f之聚酯紗,並於織抒 L6使用33dtex之聚氨酯彈性紗織造背側裡地組織,連結紗則於 10 織抒L3、織抒L4使用33dtex/12f之聚酯紗,而連結表背裡地組 織以織造52緯圈36經圈(每吋間)、寬133cm之立體構造經編織 物。對已製得之立體構造經編織物施以60秒、185°C之預定型 加工後,再以130°C染色20分鐘,乾燥後,再以160°C進行最終 定型處理100秒,即製成60緯圈40經圈(每吋間)、厚5.〇mni、寬 15 120cm之立體構造經編織物。 本立體構造經編織物之延展性於縱向為66%、橫向為 38%。又,伸長30%時之布料遲滯於縱向為68.5%、橫向為 · 79.2%。 又,本立體構造經編織物之裡地組織之紗圈密度為1872個 20 /inch2、連結紗之支數為3744支Anch2,連結紗之總細度為 123552dtex/inch2 ° · 對已製成之立體構造經編織物,以第1實施例之相同條件 實施加熱壓縮成型加工,再評價其回彈性及形狀保持性。評價 結果顯示於表1。 22 200522878 < 第4比較例 00 m 68.5 79.2 00 (N cn m 1872 3744 1- 123552 m 5.0 第3比較例 60.7 74.0 <N 1890 3780 1—:- 221680 寸 Ο 第2比較例 r- (N 50.2 1 66.7 cn m m 1908 1908 62964 寸 ο - 第1比較例 〇 Os m 56.8 71.4 in m cn 1872 3744 I 123552 ο σ\ in 第5實施例 m 43.3 34.2 un 66 與 66 2400 9600 316800 00 Os Ο 寸 On 第4實施例 卜 27.4 51.2 33 與 66 2400 7200 237600 Ό Ο m 第3實施例 VO Ον yn 22.4 40.5 in 33 與 66 3080 1_ 9240 304920 130 卜 Ο 40 (N 第2實施例 <N 00 26.4 48.0 yn VD VO 2400 9600 316800 oc 00 7.0 cn 第1實施例 寸 54.2 33 與 66 2400 7200 237600 00 o 5.0 in 縱向 橫向 縱向 橫向 單紗細度 細度 裡地組織紗圈密度 (個 / inch2) 連結紗支數(支/ inch2) 連結紗總細度 (dtex/ inch2) 聚氨酯炒細度(dtex) 聚氨酯紗占有率(%) 厚度(mm) ! 壓縮復原性(%) 形狀保持性(%) 延展性(%) 伸長30%時之 遲滯(%) 連結紗(dtex) 23 200522878 由以上表1可知,第1〜4比較例中,伸長30%時之遲滯較大, 且裡地組織之紗圈密度、連結紗之支數及總細度皆較低,壓縮 復原性差,形狀保持性(耐洗濯性)亦無法充分發揮。相對於此, 第1〜5實施例中,伸長30%時之遲滯於縱向、橫向皆控制於 5 20〜60%之範圍内,且裡地組織之密度、連結紗之支數及總細度 較高,壓縮復原性及形狀保持性(耐洗濯性)亦遠高於比較例。 產業上之利用可能性 本發明之立體構造經編織物可利用其厚度保持性、形狀保 10 持性、伸縮性、壓縮復原性等特性而運用於内衣罩杯等衣料上。 L圖式簡單說明;3 第1圖係顯示用以織造本發明之立體構造經編織物之裝置 例之構成圖。 15 第2圖係顯示成型之概況之概略圖。 第3圖係第1實施例之立體構造經編織物之組織圖。 第4圖係第2實施例之立體構造經編織物之組織圖。 第5圖係第3實施例之立體構造經編織物之組織圖。 第6圖係第4實施例之立體構造經編織物之組織圖。 20 第7圖係第5實施例之立體構造經編織物之組織圖。 第8圖係第1比較例之立體構造經編織物之組織圖。 第9圖係第2比較例之立體構造經編織物之組織圖。 第10圖係第3比較例之立體構造經編織物之組織圖。 第11圖係第4比較例之立體構造經編織物之組織圖。 200522878 【主要元件符號說明】 7…表側之針蒼 8···背側之針蚤 9…表側之織針 10…背側之織針 - 11〜16…織軸盤頭 - 17…表側裡地組織 18…背側裡地組織 19…模具 _ 20…立體構造經編織物 21…模具 A卜 A2、A5、A6···織紗 A3、A4…織紗(連結紗) G1〜G6…導紗器 L1〜L6···織抒Polyurethane elastic yarn, weaving on the front side with 84dtex / 36f polyester yarn for weaving L2, and polyester yarn of 84dtex / 36f for weaving L5, and 44dtex polyurethane elastic yarn for weaving L6. The back side is made of weave, the connection yarn is used for weaving L3 and weaving L4 using 56dtex / 24f polyester yarn, and the back surface is weaved with 47 wefts, 32 warps (each inch), and a width of 135cm Three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric. The obtained three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric was subjected to 185 seconds for 60 seconds. (: The predetermined type 15 is processed, and then dyed at 130 ° C for 20 minutes. After drying, the final setting treatment is performed at 160 ° C for 100 seconds, that is, 56 weft loops, 36 warp loops (each inch), and a thickness of 5 .〇mrn, 120cm wide three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric. The three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric has a ductility of 48% in the longitudinal direction and 41% in the horizontal direction. Moreover, the fabric lags behind 60% in the longitudinal direction and 60% in the horizontal direction 20 74.0%. In addition, the density of the yarn loops in the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric is 1890 pcs / inch2, the number of connected yarns is 3780 pcs / inch2, and the total fineness of the connected yarns is 211680dtex / inch2 ° pair The finished three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric was subjected to heat compression molding under the same conditions as in the first example 21 200522878, and the compression resilience and shape retention were evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1. < Fourth Comparative Example > — 5 As shown in Figure 11, use a double-sided Raschel knitting machine-(RD6DPLM-77E-28G: manufactured by MAYER), use 33dtex * polyurethane elastic yarn for weaving L1, and use for weaving L2 56dtex / 24f polyester yarn is woven on the front and back, and 56dtex / 2 is used for weaving L5 4f polyester yarn, and weaving on the back side using 33dtex polyurethane elastic yarn for weaving L6, weaving yarn on 10 weaving L3, weaving L4 using 33dtex / 12f polyester yarn, and connecting on the back The ground weaves a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric with 52 weft loops, 36 warp loops (each inch), and a width of 133 cm. The prepared three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric is subjected to a predetermined shape processing at 185 ° C for 60 seconds, and then Dyeing at 130 ° C for 20 minutes. After drying, the final setting treatment is performed at 160 ° C for 100 seconds. That is to make a three-dimensional structure with 60 weft loops, 40 warp loops (each inch), a thickness of 5.0 mm, and a width of 15 120 cm. Warp knitted fabric. The three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric has a ductility of 66% in the longitudinal direction and 38% in the horizontal direction. Moreover, the cloth lags at 68% in the longitudinal direction and 68.5% in the horizontal direction when stretched by 30%. The three-dimensional structure The density of the yarn loop in the warp knitted fabric is 1872 20 / inch2, the number of connected yarns is 3744 Anch2, and the total fineness of the connected yarn is 123552dtex / inch2 ° For the finished three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric The heat compression molding process was performed under the same conditions as in the first embodiment, and then the resilience and shape retention were evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1. 22 200522878 < 4th comparative example 00 m 68.5 79.2 00 (N cn m 1872 3744 1- 123552 m 5.0 3rd comparative example 60.7 74.0 < N 1890 3780 1-:-221680 Inch 〇 Second Comparative Example r- (N 50.2 1 66.7 cn mm 1908 1908 62964 Inch ο-First Comparative Example 〇Os m 56.8 71.4 in m cn 1872 3744 I 123552 ο σ \ in 5th Example m 43.3 34.2 un 66 And 66 2400 9600 316800 00 Os 〇 inch On the fourth embodiment 27.4 51.2 33 and 66 2400 7200 237600 Ό Ο m The third embodiment VO Ον yn 22.4 40.5 in 33 and 66 3080 1_ 9240 304920 130 〇 40 (N 2 embodiments < N 00 26.4 48.0 yn VD VO 2400 9600 316800 oc 00 7.0 cn 1st embodiment inch 54.2 33 and 66 2400 7200 237600 00 o 5.0 in vertical horizontal vertical horizontal single yarn fineness finely organized yarn loops Density (pcs / inch2) Number of connected yarns (count / inch2) Total fineness of the connected yarns (dtex / inch2) Polyurethane fried fineness (dtex) Polyurethane yarn occupancy (%) Thickness (mm)! Compression recovery (%) Shape retention (%) Ductility (%) Elongation Hysteresis at 30% (%) Bonding yarn (dtex) 23 200522878 As can be seen from Table 1 above, in the first to fourth comparative examples, the hysteresis at 30% elongation is large, and the loop density of the inner structure and the bonding yarn Both the count and total fineness are low, the compression recovery is poor, and the shape retention (washing resistance) cannot be fully exerted. In contrast, in the first to fifth embodiments, the hysteresis when stretched by 30% is controlled in the range of 5 20 to 60% in the longitudinal and transverse directions, and the density of the inner structure, the number of connected yarns, and the total fineness are controlled. Higher, compression recovery and shape retention (washing resistance) are also much higher than the comparative example. Industrial Applicability The three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of the present invention can be applied to clothing such as underwear cups by utilizing its characteristics such as thickness retention, shape retention, stretchability, and compression resilience. The L diagram is briefly explained; 3 FIG. 1 is a structural diagram showing an example of a device for weaving the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of the present invention. 15 Figure 2 is a schematic diagram showing the outline of molding. Fig. 3 is an organization diagram of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of the first embodiment. Fig. 4 is an organization diagram of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of the second embodiment. Fig. 5 is an organization diagram of a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric according to the third embodiment. Fig. 6 is an organization diagram of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of the fourth embodiment. 20 FIG. 7 is an organization diagram of a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric according to the fifth embodiment. Fig. 8 is an organization diagram of a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of the first comparative example. Fig. 9 is an organization diagram of a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of a second comparative example. Fig. 10 is an organization diagram of a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of a third comparative example. Fig. 11 is an organization diagram of a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of a fourth comparative example. 200522878 [Description of main component symbols] 7 ... needles on the front side 8 ... needles on the back side 9 ... needles on the front side 10 ... needles on the back side-11 ~ 16 ... pan head of the weaving shaft-17 ... inside the front side Weave 18 ... weave 19 on the back side ... mould_20 ... three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 21 ... mould A2, A5, A6 ... weaving yarn A3, A4 ... weaving yarn (connection yarn) G1 ~ G6 ... yarn guide L1 ~ L6 ...
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