SK3972000A3 - Title of the Invention. A hair conditioning composition comprising a high molecular weight ester oil - Google Patents

Abstract

The hair conditioning composition comprises: 1) a high molecular weight ester oil which is insoluble in water and has a relative molecular weight of at least 800 and is in liquid form at 25 ° C and which is selected from the group consisting of pentacrytritol ester oils of formula (I). trimethylol ester oils of formula (II) and mixtures thereof; 2) a hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant; 3) a high melting compound having a melting point of at least 25 ° C; and 4) an aqueous carrier

Description

Technical area

The present invention relates to hair conditioning compositions comprising a high molecular weight ester oil. More particularly, the present invention relates to hair conditioning compositions comprising a high molecular weight ester oil, a hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant, and a high melting point compound.

State of the art

Human hair becomes dirty through its contact with the environment and the sebum secreted by the skin on the scalp. Hair dirt makes the hair look dirty or greasy and has an unattractive appearance. Hair dirt requires regular shampooing.

Shampooing cleanses the hair by removing excess dirt and oil. However, shampooing can leave hair feeling wet, tangled and generally unkempt. When hair dries, it often remains dry, rough, dull or frizzy due to the removal of natural hair oils and other natural conditioning and moisturizing ingredients. Hair can also be left with increased static electricity after drying, which can make it difficult to comb and result in a condition commonly described as flyaways, or contribute to the undesirable phenomenon of split ends, especially in long hair.

Various approaches have been developed to alleviate these post-shampoo problems. These approaches range from the use of post-shampoo conditioners, such as leave-in or rinse-out products, to conditioning shampoos that attempt to both cleanse and condition the hair in one product. While some consumers prefer the ease and convenience of shampoos that contain conditioners, a significant portion of consumers prefer more conventional conditioners that are applied to the hair in a separate step from shampooing, typically following shampooing.

Conditioners can be in the form of rinse-off products or leave-in products and can be in the form of emulsion, cream, gel, spray and mousse. Those consumers who prefer conventional conditioners appreciate the relatively higher conditioning effect or the convenience of varying the level of conditioning depending on the condition of the hair or part of the hair.

A common method of delivering conditioning benefits to hair is through the use of hair conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants and polymers, silicone conditioning agents, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.

Cationic surfactants and polymers, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols are known to increase hair shine and provide moisture, softness and control static charge in the hair. However, these ingredients can also impart a stickiness or greasiness or a waxy feel, particularly when the hair is dried. Silicone conditioning agents are also known to provide conditioning benefits such as smoothness and ease of combing due to the low surface tension of the silicone compounds. However, silicone conditioning agents can cause the hair to feel dry or frizzy, again particularly when the hair is dried.

As discussed above, the goal remains to provide hair conditioning compositions that provide improved conditioning benefits both when the hair is wet and when the hair is dry. Specifically, there is a need to provide long-lasting moisture, softness, and manageability control when the hair is dry, while not leaving the hair looking greasy.

Nothing existing in the art has all the advantages and benefits of the present invention.

The essence of the invention

The present invention relates to a conditioning composition comprising

1) a high molecular weight ester oil which is insoluble in water and has a molecular weight of at least 800 and is in liquid form at 25°C, and which is selected from the group consisting of

a) pentaerythritol ester oils of general formula I,

The

CH ₂ O—C—R ²

(I) where the groups R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently branched, straight, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and alkylaryl groups having 1 to 30 carbons, b) trimethylol ester oils of general formula II,

ch ₂ o—cR ¹⁴ συ where the group R ¹¹ is an alkyl group having 1 to 30 carbons and the groups R ¹² , R ¹³ and

R ¹⁴ are independently branched, straight, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and alkylaryl groups having 1 to 30 carbons and mixtures thereof,

2) hydrophilic substituted cationic surfactant,

3) a high melting point compound having a melting point of at least 25°C and

4) water carrier.

These and other features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will be apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading the present description.

While the detailed description ends with claims which particularly point out and distinctly claim the invention, it is believed that the present invention will be better understood from the following description.

All referenced citations are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety. Citation of any reference is nothing more than an acknowledgment of any determination of its availability in the preceding sections in relation to the claimed invention.

The term "comprising" here means that additional steps and other components may be added that do not affect the final result. This term includes the terms "consisting of" and "consisting essentially of".

All percentages, parts and ratios are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention unless otherwise indicated. Since all such weights are relative to the stated ingredients, they are based on the active amount of the ingredient and therefore do not include carriers or by-products that may be included in commercially available materials.

Aspects and embodiments of the present invention disclosed herein have many advantages. For example, the hair conditioning compositions of the present invention provide a long-lasting tactile moisturizing sensation, a feeling of smoothness, and control of hair manageability when the hair dries, but do not leave the hair feeling greasy. The hair conditioning compositions of the present invention are suitable for leave-in or rinse-out product forms.

High molecular weight ester oils

The hair conditioning composition of the present invention comprises a high molecular weight ester oil from the group consisting of pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethyl ester oils and mixtures thereof. The high molecular weight ester oils useful herein are those that are water insoluble, have a relative molecular weight of at least 800, and are in liquid form at 25°C. The term water insoluble, as used herein, means that the compound is not significantly soluble in water at 25°C, when the compound is mixed with water at a concentration by weight of above 1.0%, preferably above 0.5%, the compound temporarily disperses to form an unstable colloid in water, then rapidly separates from the water to form two phases.

The high molecular weight ester oil herein provides conditioning benefits such as moisturizing, smoothing, and control of manageability when the hair dries, yet does not leave the hair feeling greasy. It is believed that a water-insoluble oily material is generally able to settle on the hair. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that due to its bulkiness, the high molecular weight ester oil coats the hair surface and as a result, the high molecular weight ester oil reduces hair friction while providing smoothness and manageability control. It is also believed that because it has some hydrophilic groups, the high molecular weight ester oil provides moisturizing even when it is liquid, without leaving the hair feeling greasy. The high molecular weight ester oil is chemically stable under normal conditions of use and storage.

The high molecular weight ester oil is preferably contained in the preparation in an amount of 0.1 to 20 wt. %, preferably 0.2 to 10 wt. %, more preferably 0.5 to 5 wt. %.

Suitable pentaerythritol ester oils herein are those having the following general formula I,

(D where the groups R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently branched, straight, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and alkylaryl groups having 1 to 30 carbons. Preferably the groups R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently branched, straight, saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups having 8 to 22 carbons. More preferably the groups R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are defined such that the relative molecular weight of the compound is 800 to 1200.

Suitable trimethyl ester oils herein are those having the following general formula II,

About

CH ₂ O—(íľ—R ¹²

I ⁰

R ¹ *—CH ₂ —CH ₂ O—C—R ¹³ ρη

CH ₂ O-?-RH where R ¹¹ is an alkyl group having 1 to 30 carbons and R ¹² , R ¹³ and R ¹⁴ are independently branched, straight, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and alkylaryl groups having 1 to 30 carbons. Preferably R ¹¹ is an ethyl group and R ¹² , R ¹³ and R ¹⁴ are independently branched, straight, saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups having 8 to 22 carbons. More preferably R ¹¹ , R ¹² , R ¹³ and R ¹⁴ are defined such that the molecular weight of the compound is 800 to 1200.

Particularly suitable pentaerythritol ester oils and trimethylol ester oils herein include pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraoleate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, trimethylolpropane trioleate, and mixtures thereof. These compounds are available from Kokyo Alcohol under the trade names KAKPTI, KAKTTI, and from Shin-nihon Rika under the trade names PTO, ENUJERUBU TP3SO.

Hydrophilic substituted cationic surfactant

The hair conditioning composition of the present invention comprises a hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant. The hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant herein includes those containing at least 2 hydrophilic groups, wherein at least 1 substituent in the molecule is selected from aromatic ether ester, amide or amine groups and at least 1 substituent is selected from alkoxy groups (preferably C 1 to C ₃ alkoxy groups), polyoxyalkylene (preferably C 1 to C ₃ polyoxyalkylene), alkylamide, hydroxyalkyl and alkyl ester groups. The hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant herein preferably contains 2 to 10 nonionic hydrophilic groups.

The hydrophilic substituted cationic surfactant herein provides conditioning benefits such as hair smoothness, particularly when the hair is dry. It is believed that by combining the hydrophilic substituted cationic surfactant with the above high molecular weight ester oil, a conditioning composition can be obtained which provides improved conditioning effect when the hair is wet as well as dry.

The hydrophilically substituted surfactant is preferably present in the preparation in an amount of 0.1 to 20 wt. %, preferably 0.2 to 10 wt. %, more preferably 0.5 to 5 wt. %.

Suitable hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants include those having the following formulas III to IX,

(H1) where the index ⁿ¹ is 8 to 28, ^m1 + ^m2 is equal to 2 to 40, the group ^Z1 is a short-chain alkyl group, preferably a C1 to _C3 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl group or a ( _CH2CHO )m3H group, where ^m1 + ^m2 + ^m3 is equal to up to 60 and the group X is a salt-forming anion, such as those selected from halogen radicals (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate, alkyl sulfate and alkyl sulfonate,

R ¹⁰⁶ R ¹⁰⁸ _R '«5_[!,í_ ₍ c _H ,) —i!|í-R ¹⁰⁹ 2X- (IV)

Á ¹⁰⁷ Á ¹¹⁰ where the index n ² is 1 to 5, one or more of the groups R ¹⁰⁵ , R ¹⁰⁶ and R ¹⁰⁷ are independently a C to C30 alkyl group, the remainder are CH2CH2OH groups, one or two of the groups R ¹⁰⁸ , R ¹⁰⁹ and R ¹¹⁰ are independently a C1 to C30 alkyl group and the remainder are _CH2CH2OH groups and the group X is a salt-forming anion as mentioned above,

OH Z? HO ít-'-C—N—(CH ₂ ) —N ⁷ —(CH,) —N—(í—R ¹¹² x· _(V ) n ³ L n ⁴ ''

Z* about Z? about

R ¹ —C—O—(CH ₂ ) —NMCHj)— O—C—R ¹¹² X ⁿ i?

(VI) where, independently of formulae V and VI, group Z ² is an alkyl group, preferably a C1 to C3 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl group and group Z ³ is a short-chain hydroxyalkyl group, preferably a hydroxymethyl or hydroxyethyl group, indices n ³ and n ⁴ are independently integers from 2 to 4 inclusive, preferably from 2 to 3 inclusive, more preferably 2, groups R ¹¹¹ and R ¹¹² are independently substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon groups, a C1 to _C2 alkyl group or an alkenyl group and group X is a salt-forming anion as defined above,

From?

R—nHch ₂ cho>—H JLs Im ⁴

Z? ÓH, χ· (VII) where R ¹¹³ is a hydrocarbon group, preferably a C 1 to C 3 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl group, the groups Z ⁴ and Z ⁵ are independently short-chain hydrocarbon groups, preferably a C ₂ to C ₄ alkyl or alkenyl group, more preferably an ethyl group, the index m ⁴ is 2 to 40, preferably 7 to 30 and the group X is a salt-forming anion as defined above,

R ⁴ lf-A ¹ —CH,CHCH ₂ —AX (VIII)

A- Ah where the groups R ¹¹⁴ and R ¹¹⁵ are independently a C1 to C3 alkyl group, preferably a methyl group, the group Z ⁶ is a C12 to _C22 hydrocarbon group, an alkylcarboxy group or an alkylamido group and the group A is a protein, preferably collagen, keratin, milk protein, silk, soy protein, cereal protein or hydrolyzed forms thereof and the group X is a salt-forming anion as defined above,

116

HOCH ₂ -<CHOH) ₄ ——NH(CH ₂ )— Ò— CH ₂ CH ₂ OH XR ¹¹⁷ (IX) where n ⁵ is 2 or 3, the groups R ¹¹⁶ and R ¹¹⁷ are independently up to C 3 hydrocarbon groups, preferably a methyl group, and the group X is a salt-forming anion as defined above.

Non-limiting examples of hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants useful in the present invention include materials having the following CTFA designations: quaternium-16, quaternium-26, quaternium-27, quaternium-30, quaternium-33, quaternium-43, quaternium-52, quaternium-53, quaternium-56, quaternium-60, quaternium-61, quaternium-62, quaternium-70, quaternium-71, quaternium-72, quaternium-75, quaternium-76 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-77, quaternium-78, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed keratin, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed milk protein, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed silk, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed soy protein, and quaternium-79 hydrolyzed grain protein, quaternium-81, quaternium-82, quaternium-83, quaternium-84 and mixtures thereof.

Highly preferred hydrophilic substituted cationic surfactants include dialkylamidoethylhydroxyethylammonium salt, dialkyloylethyldiammonium salt and mixtures thereof, for example commercially available under the following trade names: VARISOFT 110, VARISOFT 222, VARIQUAT 1215 and VARIQUAT 638 from Witco Chemical, MACKPRO KLP, MACKPRO WLW, MACKPRO MLP, MACKPRO NSP, MACKPRO NLW, MACKPRO WWP, MACKPRO NLP, MACKOPRO SLP from McIntyre, ETHOQUAD 18/25, ETHOQUAD 0/12PG, ETHOQUAD C/25, ETHOQUAD S/25 ETHODUOAUAD from Akzo, DEHYQUAT SP from Henkel and ATLAS G from ICI Americas.

High melting point compound

The hair conditioning composition of the present invention comprises a high melting point compound having a melting point of at least 25°C, which is selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, hydrocarbons, steroids and mixtures thereof. It will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that the compounds described in this section of this specification may in some cases fit into more than one classification, for example, some fatty alcohol derivatives may be classified as fatty acid derivatives. However, the given classification is not intended to be limiting to the particular compound, but is done so for convenience of classification and nomenclature reasons. It will further be appreciated by those skilled in the art that depending on the number and position of double bonds and the length and position of the chains, certain compounds with certain desired hydrocarbon atoms may have a melting point of less than 25°C. These low melting point compounds are not intended to be included in this section. Non-limiting examples of high melting point compounds are found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 5th edition, 1993 and the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook,

2nd edition, 1992.

These high-melting-point compounds are believed to coat the hair surface and reduce friction, resulting in hair that is smoother and easier to comb.

The high melting point compound is preferably contained in the preparation in an amount of 1 to 14 wt. %, preferably 3 to 10 wt. %, more preferably 4 to 8 wt. %.

Suitable fatty alcohols herein are those having 14 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols may be straight-chain or branched-chain alcohols and may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Suitable fatty acids herein are those having 10 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids may be straight-chain or branched-chain and may be saturated or unsaturated. Also included are diacids, triacids, and other polyhydric acids that meet these requirements. Also included are salts of these fatty acids. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Suitable fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives herein include alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkoxy-substituted fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxy-substituted fatty alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids with compounds having esterifiable hydroxy groups, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives include materials such as methyl stearyl ether, ceteth series compounds such as ceteth-1 to ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, where the numerical designation determines the number of ethylene glycol groups present, steareth series compounds such as steareth-1 to steareth-10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol, where the numerical designation determines the number of ethylene glycol groups present, ceteareth-1 to ceteareth-10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, i.e. mixtures of fatty alcohols containing mainly cetyl and stearyl alcohol, where the numerical designation determines the number of ethylene glycol groups present, C1 to C30 alkyl ethers of the compounds just described ceteth, steareth and ceteareth, polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, myristyl myristate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate and mixtures thereof.

Suitable hydrocarbons herein include compounds having at least 20 carbons.

Suitable steroids here include compounds such as cholesterol.

Preferred are high melting point compounds formed by a single compound of high purity. Highly preferred are single compounds of pure fatty alcohols selected from the group of pure cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol. The term pure is meant herein to mean that the compound has a purity of at least 90%, preferably at least 95%. These single compounds of high purity provide good washability from the hair when the consumer washes out the composition.

Here, suitable commercially available high melting point compounds include: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol having the trade names KONOL series available from Shin Nihon Rika (Osaka, Japan) and NAA series available from NOF (Tokyo, Japan), pure behenyl alcohol with the trade name 1-DOCOSANOL available from WAKO (Osaka, Japan), various fatty acids with the trade names NEO-FAT available from Azko (Chicago, Illinois, USA), HYSTRENE available from Witco Corp. (Dublin, Ohio, USA) and DERMA available from Vevy (Genoa, Italy) and cholesterol with the trade name NIKKOL AGUASOME LA available from Nikko.

Water carrier

The compositions of the present invention include an aqueous carrier. The amount and type of aqueous carrier is selected based on compatibility with the other ingredients and other desired product characteristics.

Carriers suitable in the present invention include water and aqueous solutions of lower alkyl alcohols and polyalcohols. Suitable lower alkyl alcohols herein are monoalcohols having 1 to 6 carbons, more preferably ethanol and isopropanol. Suitable polyalcohols herein include propylene glycol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentadiol, glycerin and propanediol.

The aqueous carrier is preferably essentially water. Deionized water is preferably used. Water from natural sources containing inorganic cations may also be used depending on the desired product characteristics. The compositions of the present invention generally contain 20 to 95%, preferably 30 to 92%, and more preferably 50 to 90% water.

Tertiary amido-substituted amine and acid

The hair conditioning composition of the present invention may further comprise a tertiary amido-substituted amine having an alkyl group of 12 to 22 carbons.

The tertiary amido-substituted amine herein also provides hair conditioning benefits such as smoothness, particularly when the hair is dry. It is further believed that by combining the amido-substituted amine with the hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant and the high molecular weight ester oil as mentioned above, a conditioning composition having a layered gel-like structure can be obtained.

The layered gel structure can be distinguished from spherical crystalline phase structures. Spherical crystalline phase structures by definition include, for example, a phase randomly surrounding solid crystals, an M-phase structure as defined on pages 83-84 of Physicochemistry of Cetyl Alcohol, published by Fragrance Journal Ltd. 1993, and onion-like spherical layers of liquid crystals as described in Japanese publication Kokai (A) S61-286311. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that solid crystals and/or liquid crystals of high melting point compounds held in a spherical phase structure cannot be effectively distributed and deposited on the hair surface. As a result, high melting point compounds incorporated in spherical crystalline phase structures contribute less to the conditioning benefit for the hair than those incorporated in a form incorporated in a layered gel-like structure.

The tertiary amido-substituted amine is preferably present in the preparation in an amount of 0.1 to 20 wt. %, preferably 0.2 to 10 wt. %, more preferably 1 to 5 wt. %.

Particularly suitable tertiary amido-substituted amines include: stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide. Also suitable are dimethylstearamine, soy dimethylamine, soy amine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N-substituted tallow propanediamine, ethoxylated (5 mol ethylene oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine and arachidylbehenylamine. Also suitable herein are those tertiary amido-substituted amines which are described in U.S. Patent 4,275,055, Nachtigal et al.

These tertiary amido-substituted amines can also be used in combination with acids such as L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, L-glutamic acid hydrochloride, maleic acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, citric acid. The tertiary amido-substituted amine is preferably partially neutralized here with any of these acids in a molar ratio of tertiary amido-substituted amine to acid of 1:0.3 to 1:2, more preferably 1:0.4 to 1:1.

Silicone compound

The hair conditioning composition of the present invention may further comprise a silicone compound. Suitable silicone compounds herein include volatile soluble or non-volatile soluble or insoluble silicone conditioning agents. By solubility is meant that the silicone compound is miscible with the carrier of the formulation such that it forms part of the same phase. By insolubility is meant that the silicone forms a separate phase, unassociated with the carrier such that it is in the form of an emulsion or suspension of silicone droplets. The silicone compounds herein may be prepared by any suitable method known in the art, including emulsion polymerization. Silicone compounds may further be included in the present composition in the form of an emulsion, where the emulsion is produced by mechanical mixing or in a synthesis step via emulsion polymerization with or without the aid of a surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

Silicone compounds for use preferably have a viscosity of 10' ³ to 2.m ² .s' ¹ (1000 to 2,000,000 centistokes) at 25°C, more preferably 0.001 to 1.8 m ² .s' ¹ (10,000 to 1,800,000), and even more preferably 0.1 to 1.5 m ² .s' ¹ (100,000 to 1,500,000 centistokes). Viscosity can be measured using a glass capillary viscometer as disclosed in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 20, 1970. The high molecular weight silicone compound can be produced by emulsion polymerization. Suitable silicone fluids include poly(alkylsiloxanes), poly(arylsiloxanes), poly(alkylarylsiloxanes), poly(ethersiloxane) copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Other non-volatile silicone compounds having hair conditioning properties may also be used.

The silicone compound is preferably contained in the preparation in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt. %, more preferably 0.05 to 10 wt. %.

Silicone compounds herein also include poly(alkyl-) or poly(arylsiloxanes) having the following formula X,

R ¹²³ R ¹²³ R ¹²³ z?—Oj-Si—z? (X)

Á ¹²³ R ¹²³ R ¹²³ where the group R ¹²³ is an alkyl or aryl group and the index p is an integer from 7 to 8000. The group Z ⁸ represents groups that block the ends of the silicone chains. The alkyl or aryl groups substituted on the siloxane chain (R ¹²³ ) or on the ends of the siloxane chains (Z ⁸ ) can have any structure as long as the resulting silicone remains liquid at room temperature, is dispersible, is not irritating or toxic or otherwise harmful when applied to the hair, is compatible with the other ingredients of the composition, is chemically stable under normal conditions of use and storage, and is capable of depositing on and conditioning the hair. Suitable groups Z ⁸ include hydroxy, methyl, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy and aryloxy. The two R ¹²³ groups on the silicon atom may be the same group or different groups. The two R ¹²³ groups preferably are the same group. Suitable R ¹²³ groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl. Preferred silicone compounds are poly(dimethylsiloxane), poly(diethylsiloxane) and poly(methylphenylsiloxane). Poly(dimethylsiloxane), also known as dimethicone, is particularly preferred. Poly(alkylsiloxanes) which can be used include, for example, poly(dimethylsiloxanes). These silicone compounds are available, for example, from the General Electric Company in their Viscasil® series and SF 96 series and from Dow Corning in their Dow Corning 200 series.

Poly(alkylarylsiloxane) fluids can also be used and include, for example, poly(methylphenylsiloxanes). These siloxanes are available, for example, from General Electric Company as SF 1075 methylphenyl fluid or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.

Highly aryl-substituted silicone compounds, such as highly phenyl-substituted poly(ethyl silicone), having a refractive index of 1.46 or higher, especially 1.52 or higher, are particularly preferred for enhancing the luster characteristics of the hair. When these high refractive index silicone compounds are used, they should be mixed with a coating agent such as a surfactant or silicone resin, as described below, to reduce the surface tension and increase the film-forming ability of the material.

Silicone compounds that can be used include, for example, poly(propylene oxide) modified poly(dimethylsiloxane), although ethylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide can also be used. The amount of ethylene oxide and poly(propylene oxide) should be low enough not to interfere with the dispersion characteristics of the silicone. These materials are known as dimethicone copolyols.

Other silicone compounds include amino-substituted materials. Suitable alkylamino-substituted silicone compounds include those represented by the following formula XI,

CH,

124

OH+ ii—ΟΕ-4-Ιi—Ot-ľH

L

W·

NH(XI) ( _CH2

NH, q ² where the group R ¹²⁴ is H, CH ₃ or OH, the indices p ¹ , p ² , q ¹ and q ² are integers which depend on the molecular weight, the average relative molecular weight being approximately 5000 to 10,000. This polymer is also known as "amodimeticone".

Suitable amino-substituted silicone fluids include those represented by formula XII, (R ¹²⁵ )aG3.a-Si-(OSiG2)P3-(OSiGb(R ^12S )2.b)p4-O-SiG ₃ .a(R ¹²⁵ )a (XII) wherein the group G is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, phenyl, OH, C 1 to C ₃ alkyl and preferably methyl, the symbol a denotes zero or the integer 1 and preferably equals 1, the sum of p ³ + p ⁴ is a number from 1 to 2000 and preferably up to 150, the index p ³ denotes a number from 0 to 1999 and preferably from 49 to 149 and the index p ⁴ denotes an integer from 1 to 2000 and preferably from 1 to 10, the group R ¹²³ is a monovalent radical of the formula C _q 3H _2q 3L, in which the index q ³ is an integer from 2 to 8 and the group L is chosen from the groups

- N(R ¹²⁶ )CH2-CH2-N(R ¹²⁶ )2

- N(R ¹²⁶ ) ₂

- N(R ¹²⁶ ) ₃ X'

- N(R ¹²⁶ )CH 2 -CH 2 NR ¹²⁶ H 2 X', in which the group R ¹²⁶ is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated hydrocarbon radical, preferably an alkyl radical containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and X' denotes a halide ion.

A particularly preferred amino-substituted silicone corresponding to formula XII is the polymer known as "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone", wherein the group R ¹²⁴ is a CH ₃ group.

Other amino-substituted silicone polymers that can be used are represented by formula XIII,

128

R—CH ₂ -CHOH—CH ₂ -Ç—R ¹²⁸ Κ12β\ ¹²⁸

128

R^-Ii—O+Ji—O j-Ο}-ΰι—R á- á- ^p6 >

ραπ) where the group R ¹²⁸ denotes a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl or alkenyl radical such as a methyl group, R ¹²⁹ denotes a hydrocarbon radical, preferably a C 1 to C ₈ alkylene radical or a C 1 to C ₈ and more preferably a C 1 to C ₈ alkyleneoxy radical, the group Q* is a halide ion, preferably chloride, the index p ⁵ denotes an average statistical value of 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 8, the index p ⁶ denotes an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and preferably 20 to 50. A preferred polymer of this class is available from Union Carbide under the name UČAR SILICONE ALE 56.

References describing suitable non-volatile dispersible silicone compounds include U.S. Patent No. 2,826,551 to Geen, U.S. Patent No. 3,964,500 to Drakoff, issued June 22, 1976, U.S. Patent No. 4,364,837 to Pader, and GB Patent No. 849,433 to Woolston. The publication Silicon Compounds, distributed by Petrarch Systems, Inc., 1984, provides a comprehensive, although not exclusive, list of suitable silicone compounds.

Another non-volatile dispersion silicone that may be particularly suitable is silicone rubber. The term "silicone rubber," as used herein, means a polyorganosiloxane material having a viscosity at 25°C of greater than or equal to 1 m ² .s' ¹ (1,000,000 centistokes). It is understood that the silicone rubbers described herein may also overlap with the silicone compounds described above. This overlap is not intended to limit any of these materials. Silicone rubbers are described by Petrarch et al., including U.S. Patent No. 4,152,416, Spitzer et al. issued May 1, 1979 and Noll, Walter, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones, New York, Adacemic Press 1968. Silicone rubbers are also described in General Electric Silicone Rubber Product Data Sheets SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76. Silicone rubbers typically have a relative molecular weight greater than 200,000, generally 200,000 to 1,000,000. Specific examples include poly(dimethylsiloxane), copolymers of copoly(dimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane), copoly(dimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane), and mixtures thereof.

Also suitable are silicone resins, which are highly crosslinked polymeric siloxane systems. Crosslinking is accomplished by incorporating trifunctional and tetrafunctional silanes into monofunctional or bifunctional silanes or both silanes during the manufacture of the silicone resin. As is well known in the art, the degree of crosslinking required to obtain the resulting silicone resin varies with the particular silane units incorporated into the silicone resin. In general, those silicone materials which have a sufficient level of trifunctional and tetrafunctional siloxane monomer units and thus a sufficient level of crosslinking such that they dry to a solid or hard film are considered silicone resins. The ratio of oxygen atoms to silicon atoms is a measure of the level of crosslinking of a particular silicone material. Silicone materials which have a ratio of oxygen atoms to silicon atoms of at least 1.1 will generally be silicone resins herein. The ratio of oxygen to silicon atoms is preferably at least 1.2:1.0. Silanes used in the preparation of silicone resins include monomethyl, dimethyl, trimethyl, monophenyl, diphenyl, methylphenyl, monovinyl and methylvinylchlorosilanes and tetrachlorosilanes, with methyl substituted silanes being most commonly used. Preferred resins are offered by General Electric as GE SS4230 and SS4267. Commercially available silicone resins are generally supplied in soluble form as volatile or non-volatile silicone fluids of low viscosity. Silicone resins for use herein should be supplied and incorporated into the formulation of the present invention in such soluble form as is readily apparent to those skilled in the art. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that silicone resins can increase the coverage of hair with other silicone compounds and can significantly increase the gloss of hair through the high refractive index.

Other suitable silicone resins are silicone resin powders, such as the material listed under the CTFA designation polymethylsilsequixane, which is commercially available as Tospearl™ from Toshiba Silicones.

A method for making these silicone compounds can be found in Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 1989.

Silicone materials, and in particular silicone resins, can be conveniently identified by an abbreviation system well known to those skilled in the art as the MDTQ nomenclature. In this system, silicone is described by the presence of the various siloxane monomer units that make up the silicone. In short, the symbol M denotes a monofunctional unit (CH ₃ ) ₃ SiO 0,5 . D denotes a bifunctional unit (CH ₃ ) 2 SiO 0 , T denotes a trifunctional unit (CH ₃ ) SiO _1,5 , and Q denotes a tetrafunctional unit SiO ₂ . The superscripts of the unit symbols, e.g. M', D', T', and Q' denote substituents other than methyl and these must be specifically defined for each occurrence. Typical alternative substituents include groups such as vinyl, phenyl, amino, hydroxyl, etc. The molar ratios of the various units, either as subscripts in symbols indicating the total number of each type of unit in the silicone or its average or specifically designated ratios in combination with molecular weight, complete the description of the silicone material in the MDTQ system. A higher relative molar amount of T, Q, T' and/or Q' to D, D'M and/or M' in the silicone resin indicates a high level of crosslinking. However, as discussed above, the overall level of crosslinking can also be indicated by the oxygen to silicon ratio.

Preferred silicone resins for use herein are MQ, MT, MTQ, MQ and MDTA resins. Preferred are MQ resins where the M:Q ratio is 0.5:1.0 to 1.5:1.0 and the average relative molecular weight of the resin is 1000 to 10,000.

Commercially available silicone compounds that are suitable include Dimethicone under the trade name D-13, cetylDimethicone under the trade name DC2502, stearylDimethicone under the trade name DC2503, emulsified poly(dimethylsiloxanes) under the trade names DC 1664 and DC1784, and alkyl graft copolymer silicone emulsion under the trade name DC2-2845, all available from Dow Corning Corporation, and emulsion polymerized Dimethiconol available from Toshiba Silicone, as described in GB Application 2,303,857.

Additional components

The hair conditioning compositions of the present invention may contain a variety of different ingredients, which may be selected by the skilled artisan according to the desired characteristics of the final product. Additional ingredients include, for example, hydrophobic cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, additional oily compounds, nonionic polymers, and other additional ingredients.

Hydrophobic cationic surfactants

Suitable hydrophobic cationic surfactants herein are any known to those skilled in the art.

Among the suitable hydrophobic cationic surfactants are those corresponding to the general formula XIV,

R’01

R ¹⁰ —N—R ¹⁰³ X' (XIV)

R ¹⁰⁴ wherein at least one of R ¹⁰¹ , R ¹⁰² , R ¹⁰³ and R ¹⁰⁴ is selected from an aliphatic group of 8 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to 22 carbon atoms and the remaining groups R ¹⁰¹ , R ¹⁰² , R ¹⁰³ and R ¹⁰⁴ are independently selected from an aliphatic group of 1 to 22 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkenyl, alkylamide, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to 22 carbon atoms and the group X' is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate, alkyl sulfate and alkyl sulfate radicals. Aliphatic groups may contain, in addition to carbon atoms, ether linkages and other groups such as amino groups. Longer chain aliphatic groups, e.g. those having 12 or more carbons, may be saturated or unsaturated. It is preferred that the groups R ¹⁰¹ , R ¹⁰² , R ¹⁰³ and R ¹⁰⁴ are independently selected from C 1 to C ₂₂ alkyl groups. Non-limiting examples of hydrophobic cationic surfactants suitable herein include materials having the following CTFA designations: quaternium-8, quaternium-14, quaternium-18, quaternium-18 methosulfate, quaternium-24 and mixtures thereof.

Among the hydrophobic cationic surfactants of general formula XIV, those which contain in the molecule at least one alkyl chain having at least 16 carbons are preferred. Non-limiting examples of these preferred hydrophobic cationic surfactants include behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, available for example under the trade name INCROQUAT TMC-80 from Croda and ECONOL TM22 from Sanyo Kasei, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, available for example under the trade name CA-2350 from Nikko Chemicals, hydrogenated tallow alkyl trimethylammonium chloride, dialkyl (14-18) dimethylammonium chloride, dialkyl tallow dimethylammonium chloride, dialkyl (hydrogenated tallow) dimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, dicetyldimethylammonium chloride, di(behenyl/arachidyl) dimethylammonium chloride, dibehenyldimethylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearylpropyleneglycolphosphatedimethylammonium chloride, strearomylamidopropyl dimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearoylamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride and N-(stearoylaminoformylmethyl)pyridine chloride.

Cationic polymers

The hair conditioning compositions of the present invention may contain one or more cationic polymers. The term polymer, as used herein, will include materials made either by the polymerization of a single type of monomer, or made from two (i.e., copolymers) or more types of monomers.

The cationic polymer is preferably a water-soluble cationic polymer. By a cationic, water-soluble polymer is meant a polymer that is sufficiently soluble in water to form a substantially clear solution to the naked eye at a concentration of 0.1% in water (distilled or equivalent water) at 25°C. A preferred polymer will be sufficiently soluble to form a substantially clear solution at a concentration of 0.5%, more preferably at a concentration of 1.0%.

Cationic polymers herein will typically have an average relative molecular weight that is at least 5,000, typically at least 10,000 and less than 10,000,000. The relative molecular weight is preferably 100,000 to 2,000,000. Cationic polymers will generally have nitrogen-containing groups such as quaternary ammonium or cationic amino groups and mixtures thereof.

The positive charge density is preferably at least 0.1 milliequivalents/g, more preferably at least 1.5 milliequivalents/g, even more preferably at least 1.1 milliequivalents/g, even more preferably at least 1.2 milliequivalents/g. The positive charge density of the cationic polymer can be determined according to the Kjeldahl method. Those skilled in the art will recognize that the charge density of polymers containing amino groups can vary depending on the pH and the isoelectric point of the amino groups. The charge density should be within the above limits at the pH of the intended use.

For cationic polymers, any anionic group can be used as long as the water solubility criterion is met. Suitable counterions include halides (e.g., chloride, bromide, iodide, or fluoride, preferably chloride, bromide, or iodide), sulfate, and methyl sulfate. Other ions can also be used, as this list is not exhaustive.

The cationic nitrogen-containing group will generally be present as a substituent on a fraction of all monomer units of the cationic hair conditioning polymer. Thus, the cationic polymer may include copolymers, terpolymers, etc. of quaternary ammonium or cationic amino-substituted monomer units and other non-cationic units referred to herein as intercalated monomer units. Such polymers are known in the art and are various and can be found in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 3rd Edition, edited by Estrin, Crosley and Haynes, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, DC, 1982).

Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amino or quaternary ammonium functional groups with water-soluble intercalating monomers such as acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamides, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamides, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl carprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidone. Alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to _C3 alkyl groups. Other suitable intercalating monomers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol (produced by hydrolysis of polyvinyl acetate), maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.

Cationic amines may be primary, secondary or tertiary amines depending on the particular species and pH of the formulation. In general, secondary and tertiary amines are preferred, especially tertiary amines.

Amino-substituted vinyl monomers can be polymerized in the amine form and then preferably converted to the ammonium form by a quaternization reaction. Amines can also be similarly quaternized after polymer formation. For example, tertiary amine functional groups can be quaternized by reaction with a salt of the formula R ¹¹⁸ X, where R ¹¹⁸ is a short chain alkyl group, preferably a C 1 to C ₇ alkyl group, more preferably a C 1 to C 3 alkyl group, and X is a salt-forming anion as defined above.

Suitable cationic amine and quaternary ammonium monomers include, for example, vinyl compounds substituted with dialkylaminoalkylacrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkylacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkylmethacrylate, trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium salt, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium salt, diallyl quaternary ammonium salts and vinyl quaternary ammonium monomers having rings containing cyclic nitrogen, such as pyridinium, imidazolium and quaternary pyrrolidone, for example alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts. The alkyl moieties of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to _C3 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 and _C2 alkyl groups. Suitable amino-substituted vinyl monomers for use herein include dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamide and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide, wherein the alkyl groups are preferably C1 to _C7 hydrocarbon groups, more preferably C1 to _C3 alkyl groups.

Cationic polymers herein may include mixtures of monomer units derived from amino-substituted and/or ammonium-substituted monomers and/or compatible intercalated monomers.

Suitable cationic hair conditioning polymers include, for example, copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt) (referred to in the industry by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, CTFA, as Polyquaternium-16), such as those commercially available from BASFF Wyandotte Corp. (Parsippany, NJ, USA) under the trade name LUVIQUAT (e.g. LUVIQUAT FC 370), copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (referred to in the industry by the CTFA as Polyquaternium-11) such as those commercially available from Gaf Corporation (Wayne, NJ, USA) under the trade name GAFQUAT (e.g. GAFQUAT 755a), cationic polymers containing diallyl quaternary ammonium groups, including, for example, homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) respectively as Polyquaternium 7, and mineral acid salts of aminoalkyl esters of homopolymers and copolymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, as described in U.S. Patent 4,009,111. 256.

Other suitable cationic polymers are amphoteric terpolymers consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and methyl acrylate such as Polyquaternium 47. An example of a suitable commercial material is MERQUAT 2001® (XV), supplied by Calgon Corp., where the ratio n ⁶ :n ⁷ :n ⁸ is 45:45:10.

(XV)

Other cationic polymers that can be used include polysaccharide polymers such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives.

Cationic polysaccharide polymer materials suitable for use herein include those having the formula XVI,

^R120

Zr-Of—R—N—R ¹²² ) X (XVI)

Á ¹²¹ wherein the group Z ⁷ is an anhydroglucose residue, such as a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residue, the group R ¹¹⁹ is an alkyleneoxyalkylene, poly(oxyalkylene) or hydroxyalkylene group or a combination thereof, the groups R ¹²⁰ , R ¹²¹ and R ¹²² are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to 18 carbon atoms and the total number of carbon atoms for each cationic group (i.e. the sum of the carbon atoms in the groups R ¹²⁰ , R ¹²¹ and R ¹²² ) is preferably 20 or less and X has the meaning given above.

Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) in its Polymer JR® and LR® polymer lines, such as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethylammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10. Another type of cationic cellulose includes polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryldimethylammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the trade name Polymer LM-200®.

Other cationic polymers that can be used include cationic derivatives of guar gum, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, commercially available from Celanese Corp. in its Jaguar R series. Other materials include cellulose ethers containing quaternary nitrogen as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418 and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch as described in U.S. Patent 3,958,581.

Particularly suitable cationic polymers herein include Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-47, and mixtures thereof.

Supplementary oily compounds

Suitable additional oily compounds herein include fatty alcohols and their derivatives, fatty acids and their derivatives, and hydrocarbons. Suitable additional oily compounds herein may be volatile or non-volatile and have a melting point of not more than 25°C. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the additional oily compounds can penetrate the hair and modify the hydroxyl bonds of the hair, thereby providing the resulting hair with softness and flexibility. The additional oily compounds of this section are distinct from the high melting point compounds described above. Non-limiting examples of additional oily compounds are found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 5th edition, 1993 and the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, 2nd edition, 1992.

Suitable fatty alcohols herein include those having 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols may be straight-chain or branched-chain alcohols and may be saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated alcohols. Non-limiting examples of these compounds include oleyl alcohol, palmitooleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, undecanol, octadodecanol, octyldodecanol, octyldecanol, octyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, decyl alcohol, and lauryl alcohol.

Suitable fatty acids herein include those having 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids may be straight-chain or branched-chain and may be saturated or unsaturated. Suitable fatty acids include, for example, oleic acid, linoleic acid, isostearic acid, linolenic acid, ethyllinolenic acid, arachidonic acid, and ricinoleic acid.

Fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives are defined herein to include, for example, fatty alcohol esters, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty alcohol alkyl ethers, alkoxylated fatty alcohol alkyl ethers, and bulky ester oils such as pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, citrate ester oils, glycerol ester oils, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives include, for example, methyl linoleate, ethyl linoleate, isopropyl linoleate, isodecyl oleate, isopropyl oleate, ethyl oleate, octyldodecyl oleate, oleyl oleate, decyl oleate, butyl oleate, methyl oleate, octyldodecyl stearate, octyldodecyl isostearate, octyldodecyl isopalmitate, octyl isopelargonate, octyl pelargonate, hexyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, and Oleth-2. Suitable bulk ester oils such as pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethyl ester oils, citrate oils, and glyceryl ester oils are those having a relative molecular weight of less than 800, preferably less than 500.

Suitable hydrocarbons herein include straight chain, cyclic and branched chain hydrocarbons which may be either saturated or unsaturated as long as they do not have a melting point above 25°C. These hydrocarbons have 12 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Also included herein are polymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers, such as polymers of _C2 to C6 alkenyl monomers. These polymers may be straight chain or branched chain polymers. Straight chain polymers will typically be of relatively short length with a total number of carbon atoms as described above. Branched chain polymers may have considerably longer chain lengths. The average relative molecular weight of these materials can vary widely, but will typically be up to 500, preferably 200 to 400, and more preferably 300 to 350. Various classes of mineral oils are also suitable herein. Mineral oils are liquid mixtures of hydrocarbons that are obtained from petroleum. Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbon materials include paraffin oil, mineral oil, dodecane, isododecane, hexadecane, polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof. Preferred for use herein are hydrocarbons selected from the group consisting of mineral oil, poly(α-olefin) oils such as isododecane, isohexadecane, polybutene, polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof.

Suitable commercially available fatty alcohols and derivatives thereof include oleyl alcohol under the trade name UNJECOL 90BHR, available from Shin Nihon Rika, various liquid esters under the trade names SCHERCEMOL, available from Scher, and hexyl isostearate under the trade name HIS and isopropyl isostearate under the trade name ZPIS, available from Kokyu Alcohol. Suitable commercially available bulk ester oils include trimethylolpropane tricaprylate/tricaprate under the trade name MOBIL ESTER P43 from Mobil Chemical Co. Commercially available hydrocarbons suitable herein include isododecane, isohexadecane and isoeicosene under the trade names PERMETHYL 99A, PERMETHYL 1082, available from Presperse (South Plainfield, New Jersey, USA), a copolymer of isobutene and normal butene under the trade name INDOPOL H-100, available from Amoco Chemicals (Chicago, Illinois, USA), mineral oil under the trade name BENOL, available from Witco, isoparaffin under the trade name ISOPAR from Exxon Chemical Co. (Houston, Texas, USA), and polydecene under the trade name PURESYN 6 from Mobil Chemical Co.

H(OCH ₂ CH-)Im. ^x

Nonionic polymers

Suitable nonionic polymers herein include cellulose derivatives, hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, ethylene oxide polymers and ethylene oxide/propylene oxide based polymers. Suitable nonionic polymers are cellulose derivatives including methylcellulose under the trade name BENECEL, hydroxyethylcellulose under the trade name NATROSOL, hydroxypropylcellulose under the trade name KLUCEL, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose under the trade name POLYSURF 67, all available from Hercules. Other suitable nonionic polymers are ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide based polymers under the trade names CARBOWAX PEGs, POLYOX WASRs and UCON FLUIDS, all available from Amerchol.

Poly(ethylene glycols)

Poly(alkylene glycols) are characterized by the general formula XVII,

Γ ^ΟΗ (XVII) where the group R ²⁰¹ is selected from the group consisting of H, methyl and mixtures thereof. When the group R ²⁰¹ is H, these materials are polymers of ethylene oxide, which are also known as polyethylene oxides, polyoxyethylenes and polyethylene glycols. When the group R ²⁰¹ is a methyl group, these materials are polymers of propylene oxide, which are also known as polypropylene oxides, polyoxypropylenes and polypropylene glycols. When the group R ²⁰¹ is a methyl group, it is understood that various positional isomers of the resulting polymers may also exist.

In the above structure, the index x3 has an average value of 1500 to 25,000, preferably 2500 to 20,000, and more preferably 3500 to 15,000.

Other suitable polymers include polypropylene glycols and blended polyethylene/polypropylene glycols.

Suitable polyethylene glycol polymers herein are PEG-2M, where the ^R201 group is H and the x3 index has an average value of 2000 (PEG-2M is also known as Polyox WSR® A-10, available from Union Carbide and as PEG-2000), PEG-5M, where the ^R201 group is H and the x3 index has an average value of 5000 (PEG5M is also known as Polyox WSR® A-35 and Polyox WSR® A-80, both available from Union Carbide and as PEG-5000 and Polyethylene Glycol 300,000), PEG-7M, where the ^R201 group is H and the x3 index has an average value of 7000 (PEG-7M is also known as Polyox WSR® A-750, available from Union Carbide), PEG-9M, where the ^R201 group is H and the x3 index has an average value of 9000 (PEG-9M) is also known as Polyox WSR® A-3000, available from Union Carbide).

Other additional ingredients

The compositions of the present invention may contain additional ingredients which may be selected by the skilled person according to the desired characteristics of the final product and which are suitable for giving the composition a more cosmetic or aesthetically pleasing appearance or for providing additional benefits for use. These additional ingredients are usually used in amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt. %, preferably up to 5 wt. % of the composition.

A wide range of additional ingredients may be incorporated into the present preparations. These ingredients include additional conditioning agents such as hydrolyzed collagen under the trade name Peptein 2000, available from Hormel, vitamin E under the trade name Emix-d, available from Eisai, panthenol, available from Roche, panthenyl ethyl ether, available from Roche, hydrolyzed keratin, proteins, plant extracts and nourishing agents, hair fixative polymers such as amphoteric fixative polymers, cationic fixative polymers, nonionic fixative polymers and silicone graft copolymers, preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methylparaben, propylparaben and imidazolidinyl urea, pH adjusting agents such as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, common salts such as potassium acetate and sodium chloride, coloring agents such as any of the FD&C or D&C dyes, hair oxidative (decolorizing) agents such as hydrogen peroxide, peroxyborate and persulfate salts, hair reducing agents such as thioglycolates, perfumes and masking agents such as disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate, UV and infrared imaging and absorption agents such as octyl salicylate, anti-dandruff agents such as zinc pyridinethione and optical brightening agents such as polystyrylstilbenes, triazinestilbenes, hydroxycoumarins, aminocoumarins, triazoles, pyrazolines, oxazoles, pyrenes, porphyrins, imidazoles and mixtures thereof.

Examples of embodiments of the invention

The following examples further describe and demonstrate embodiments that fall within the scope of the present invention. The examples are provided for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to be limiting of the present invention, as many variations thereof are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. The components are described by chemical or CTFA name or other definition set forth below.

The compositions of the present invention are suitable for rinse-off products and leave-in products and are particularly useful for the manufacture of products in the form of an emulsion, cream, gel, spray or foam.

Examples 1 to 6 are hair conditioning compositions of the present invention which are particularly suitable for use with rinse-out hair.

Preparations

Ingredients Ex.1 Ex.2 Ex.3 Ex.4 Ex.5 Ex.6 Pentaerythritol tetraisostearate * 1 1.0 - 0.5 - - - Pentaerythritol tetraoleate* 2 - 1.0 - 0.5 - - Trimethylolpropane trioleate* 3 - - 0.5 0.5 1.0 1.0 Trimethylolpropane triisostearate* 4 - - - - - 1.0 Dihydrogenated amidoethyl chain from tallow- hydroxyethylammonium methosulfate* 5 1.0 2.0 1.5 Distearamidoethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate - - 1.0 2.0 1.0 - Cetyl alcohol 6 4.5 4.5 4.0 4.0 4.5 4.5 Stearyl alcohol 7 2.5 2.5 2.0 2.5 2.5 2.5 Behenyl alcohol 8 - 1.0 - 1.0 0.5 - Stearamidopropyldimethylamine*9 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 L-glutamic acid* 10 0.64 0.64 0.8 0.6 0.64 1.8 Hydroxyethylcellulose* 11 - - - - 0.5 0.1 Poly(oxyethylene)(2000)* 12 0.1 - 0.1 - - - Polyquaternium-10*13 - - - - 0.05 0.05

Polyquaternium-7*14 - - - 0.05 - - Preservatives 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 Benzyl alcohol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Perfume 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Silicone mixture* 15 2.0 2.5 4.2 2.5 2.5 2.5 Silicone emulsion*16 - - - 0.5 0.5 0.5 Hydrolyzed collagen* 17 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 Vitamin E*18 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 Panthenol *19 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 Pantenyl ethyl ether*20 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Citric acid*21 amount needed to adjust pH 3 to 7 Deionized water up to 100%

Ingredient Definition *1 Pentaerythritol tetraisostearate: KAK PTI, obtained from Kokyu alcohol.

*2 Pentaerythritol tetraoleate: available from Shin-Nihon Rika.

*3 Trimethylolpropane trioleate: Enujerubu TP3SO, obtained from Shin-Nihon Rika.

*4 Trimethylolpropane triisostearate: KAK TTI, obtained from Kokyu alcohol.

*5 Dihydrogenated amidoethyl chain from tallow-hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate:

Varisoft 110, obtained from Witco.

*6 Cetyl alcohol: Konol series, obtained from Shin-Niho Rika.

*7 Stearyl alcohol: Konol series, obtained from Wako.

*8 Behenyl alcohol: 1-Docosanol (97%), obtained from Wako.

*9 Stearamidopropyldimethylamine: Amidoamine MPS, obtained from Nikko.

*10 L-Glumatic Acid: L-Glutamic Acid (cosmetic grade) obtained from Ajinomoto.

*11 Hydroxyethylcellulose: available from Aqualon.

*12 Poly(oxyethylene) (2000): WSR A-10, obtained from Amerchol.

*13 Polyquaternium-10: UCARE Polymer LR 400, obtained from Amerchol.

*14 Polyquaternium-7: Merquat S, obtained from Calgon.

*15 Silicone compound: SE76, obtained from GE.

*16 Silicone emulsion: X65-4829. Obtained from Tosil/GE.

*17 Hydrolyzed collagen: Peptein 2000, obtained from Hormel.

*18 Vitamin E: Emix-d, obtained from Eisai.

*19 Panthenol: available from Roche.

20* Panthenyl ether: available from Roche.

*21 Citric acid: anhydrous citric acid, obtained from Haarman & Reimer.

Production method

The compositions of Examples 1 to 6, as shown above, can be prepared by any conventional method well known in the art. They are preferably prepared as follows: if polymeric materials such as hydroxyethylcellulose, poly(oxyethylene), Polyquaternium-10 and Polyquaternium-7 are included in the composition, they are dispersed in water at room temperature to form a polymer solution. The high melting point compounds, hydrophilic substituted cationic surfactant, tertiary amido substituted amines and polymer solution, if present, are mixed and heated above 70°C. The mixture thus obtained is cooled below 50°C and the other ingredients are added with stirring and the mixture is further cooled to 30°C.

Alternatively, the high melting point compounds, tertiary amido-substituted amines and polymer solution, if present, are mixed and heated above 70°C. The mixture thus obtained is cooled to 60°C, at which time the hydrophilically substituted surfactant is added. The final mixture thus obtained is cooled below 50°C and the remaining ingredients are added with stirring and the mixture is further cooled to 30°C.

A three-way mixing valve and/or a whisk can be used at each step if it is necessary to disperse the materials.

The described embodiments of the invention, represented by the preceding examples, have many advantages. For example, they can provide long-lasting moisturizing effect, softness and control of manageability of hair when it is dry, while not leaving the hair feeling greasy.

It is understood that the examples and embodiments described herein are provided for illustrative purposes only and that various modifications or changes will be suggested to those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope thereof.

Claims (4)

1) 0.1 to 20% high molecular weight ester oil; (1) a high molecular weight ester oil which is insoluble in water and has a molecular weight of at least 800 and is in liquid form at 25 ° C and which is selected from the group consisting of: (a) pentaerythritol ester oils of the general formula I, (I) wherein the groups R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently branched, straight, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and alkylaryl groups having 1 to 30 carbons, (b) trimethylol ester oils of formula (II), (H) wherein R ¹¹ is an alkyl group having 1 to 30 carbons and R ¹² , R ¹³ and R ¹⁴ are independently branched, straight, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and alkylaryl groups having 1 to 30 carbons and mixtures thereof, What is claimed is: 1. A hair conditioning composition comprising 2) 0.1 to 20% hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant, The hair conditioning composition of claim 1, wherein the high molecular weight ester oil is selected from the group consisting of pentaerythritol ester oils, wherein the groups R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently branched, straight, saturated or unsaturated alkyl oils. groups having 8 to 22 carbons, from trimethylol ester oils, wherein R ¹¹ is ethyl and R ¹² , R ¹³ and R ¹⁴ are independently branched, straight, saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups having 8 to 22 carbons and mixtures thereof. 2) a hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant, 3) 4 to 8% of a high melting point compound; and The hair conditioning composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of a dialkylamidoethylhydroxyethylammonium salt, a dialkylamidoethyldiammonium salt, a dialkylethylhydroxyethylammonium salt, a dialkoethyldiammonium salt and a mixture thereof. The hair conditioner of claim 1, wherein the high melting point compound is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. The hair conditioning composition according to claim 4, wherein the high melting point compound is present in an amount of up to 4% by weight of the composition. 6. The hair conditioning composition of claim 1, further comprising a tertiary amide-substituted amine having an alkyl group of 12 to 22 carbons. 7. The hair conditioning composition of claim 6, further comprising an acid selected from the group consisting of L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, L-glutamic acid hydrochloride. , tartaric acid, citric acid, and mixtures thereof, wherein the molar ratio of the tertiary amide-substituted amine to the acid is 1: 0.3 to 1: 2. The hair conditioning composition of claim 1, further comprising a silicone compound. A hair conditioning composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises 3) high melting point compounds having a melting point of at least 25 ° C; and 4) an aqueous carrier. 4) water.