RU2842791C2 - Method of making decorative three-dimensional trim on articles - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: light industry.

SUBSTANCE: present invention relates to light industry and a method of decorating articles on clothes, shoes, bags, hats and accessories, as well as in interior design. Proposed method of making decorative three-dimensional finish on articles includes development of decorative finish, making a pattern, cutting of decorative trim parts and their connection to each other to form a single decorative trim part, connection of a single trim part to the product and obtaining volumetric 3D sewing portraits on surfaces of products, inside which there is a hollow space, which allows to create volumetric forms of finishing on a flat surface of material without fillers.

EFFECT: disclosed is a method of making a decorative three-dimensional finish on articles.

1 cl, 8 dwg

Description

The present invention relates to light industry and concerns a method for producing decorative three-dimensional finishing on clothing items and other products, such as shoes, bags, headwear and accessories, as well as on design items, including interior design, for the purpose of decorating the products and obtaining volumetric 3-D sewing portraits or various figures on the surfaces of the listed products.

A method for producing three-dimensional elements on products obtained using an internal filler, which is placed between the layers of the product, is known. The top layer of the material is cut out with allowances for processing. Most often, synthetic padding is used as a filler. All three layers are connected with stitches in accordance with the sketch of the pattern. Only thin or medium-thick fabrics are used for the top layer, which allow you to create the greatest volume. Materials with waterproof and / or windproof impregnations (raincoat and jacket fabrics) are used. Such materials prevent the penetration of synthetic padding fibers or other bulk filler to the front side of the product. If a thin material without a coating is used, then a layer of non-woven material is placed on top of the filler layer, and only then a layer of the main material. To increase the volume of decorative elements, several layers of synthetic padding or other filler are used. The method is called quilting with filler (for example, https://pokroyka.ru/obemnyie-elementyi-s-napolnitelem/).

A method for producing three-dimensional design elements on woven articles is known: the design includes an outer panel having at least one pocket at the back and a profiled foam pad inside the pocket protruding outward to create a three-dimensional appearance (invention application US 4591521 A, publication date 05/27/1986). A method for placing three-dimensional decorations on the outer surface of a substrate, such as a shirt or a leather jacket, is known, which include a decorative element of a three-dimensional configuration that ends at the back with a continuous edge having a connecting flange with a set of beads made of a flowable and adhesive material. First, the first bead is applied to the protruding edge of the decorative element, and as the bead flows inward, a second bead is placed on the first bead so that it merges or flows with it and, upon curing, forms a single inward-facing flange. While the rollers are in a fluid state, the decorative element is attached to a specific location on a fabric garment, leather jacket, etc. (US Patent Application No. 5,169,701 A, published on December 8, 1992). A method is known for producing a three-dimensional applique for decorative and non-functional purposes on garments in a predetermined neckline area, to which the three-dimensional applique is attached along the edges of the neckline area. The three-dimensional applique can take various shapes, such as a light switch, an animal head, or any other desired shape. The three-dimensional applique is molded from vinyl or other plastic or rubber in a separate process and is preferably attached to the front panel of the article (US Patent Application No. 4,837,864 A, published on June 13, 1989).

The disadvantages of the known methods of producing three-dimensional design elements on products are that the known methods increase the weight of the product by using layers of filler or third-party elements (foam, plastic, rubber). Products decorated in this way are not suitable for making clothes that come into contact with the human body (dresses, T-shirts, shirts, etc.), since acceptable air exchange is not ensured and difficulties arise when washing the product. Sections of clothing covered with finishing based on synthetic padding, foam, vinyl or other plastic or rubber do not provide acceptable vapor permeability and air permeability. A greenhouse effect is created. The listed fillers, under the influence of air, sunlight and excess moisture, begin to disintegrate, lose elasticity, crumble, and stick together.

After washing, deformation of the original shape of the volumetric element is possible. Also, when using the above-mentioned third-party elements, the plasticity of the products and comfort when wearing are violated. Thus, the known methods can only be used for the manufacture of outerwear that does not require frequent washing and for a limited type of fabrics with low density or for elastic fabrics.

A method for producing decorative trim on clothing items is also known, which includes developing a model of the clothing item, creating templates for the parts, selecting and cutting the material. When cutting the material into parts according to the template, allowances are left in the places where the decorative trim is located for making the decorative trim elements. Then, a rib is formed on the edges of the said elements, for which the edge of the material is folded, sewn with a thread seam from the front side, the remaining allowance of the material is trimmed, and the resulting fold is folded again in the same direction and sewn from the front side so that the new line should coincide with the previous line. Then, leaving the decorative trim on the front side of the product, the parts are connected together and a finished clothing item is obtained (patent for invention RU 2170538 C1, publication date 20.07.2001).

The disadvantage of this method of making decorative trim on clothing items is the impossibility of obtaining a voluminous trim. This method produces a trim formed from the edges of the fabric using a rib, which limits the variations in clothing decoration.

The closest analogue of the claimed invention is a method for producing decorative trim on clothing items, including developing a model of a clothing item with a place for decorative trim, making patterns for the parts, selecting and cutting the material. A type of decorative trim for a clothing item is developed, consisting of N elements of various shapes and sizes made of transparent hot-melt textile materials of M colors. The decorative trim elements are cut with simultaneous processing of the cuts at the melting temperature of the material. The decorative trim elements are connected to each other with an overlay seam from the front side, forming a single piece of complex decorative trim consisting of mosaic elements. A relief element in the form of an opaque synthetic volumetric cord is stitched onto the connecting seams from the front side, or a relief element in the form of a cord is laid using an adhesive method. The edges of the prepared decorative trim piece are processed with bias binding to obtain a finished decorative trim (patent for invention RU 2377944 C1, publication date 10.01.2010).

The disadvantage of the closest analogue is that it is applicable only to transparent thermo-melting textile materials. To process decorative trim elements, additional equipment is required for cutting and simultaneous processing of cuts at the melting temperature, as well as glue and a glue gun for a possible method of laying a relief element in the form of a cord.

Decorative trim is attached to the main textile product not only along the outer edges of the trim, but also along all the inner seams of the mosaic elements. Therefore, it is impossible to make a protruding decorative trim of a sufficiently large area in the form of a three-dimensional figure, portrait.

The technical problem, the solution of which is provided by the claimed group of inventions, is the ability to manufacture products, including clothing, of any spatial and volumetric shape that meets the requirements for air exchange and hygroscopicity and easily withstands frequent washing without deformation of the product. Clothing and other products remain comfortable and flexible. Volumetric elements remain hollow inside and can be made of any materials and any sizes. The invention provides for an expansion of types of decorative trim and clothing items with decorative trim of various assortments and styles.

The technical result of the invention consists in creating three-dimensional forms on a flat surface of a material without external fillers.

The technical result is achieved in that the method for producing a decorative three-dimensional trim of a male face on products, according to which trim patterns are made, decorative trim parts are cut out, decorative trim parts are connected to each other to form a single decorative trim part, a single trim part is connected to the product to obtain a finished three-dimensional decorative trim on the surface of the product, according to the invention, the decorative trim is made from flat parts, wherein the flat parts are made in the form of part 9 of the base of the mouth, part 12 of the gum, part 13 of the beard, volumetric parts that form the volume of the trim due to the content of structural and decorative allowances and/or technological allowances, wherein the volumetric parts are made in the form of lower part 1 of the face with a beard part and contain darts 2 along the lower contour, upper part 3 of the face and contain darts 4 along the upper contour, two round parts 6 and 7 of the eyes, cut with structural and decorative allowances 8, two parts 14 of the upper moustache, cut out with structural and decorative allowances 15 and darts 16, part 17 of the lower moustache, cut out with a structural and decorative allowance 18, part 19 of the upper beard, cut out with a technological allowance for folds 20, two parts 21 of the eyebrows, cut out with technological allowances for darts 22, and side parts made in the form of part 5 of the nose and brow, the first part 10 of the mouth and the second part 11 of the mouth, wherein the flat and three-dimensional parts are arranged in the trim parallel to the surface of the product or at an angle, and the side parts are connected to the flat and/or three-dimensional parts perpendicular to the surface of the product or at an angle, the trim is connected to the product along the outer contour formed by the projection of the trim onto the surface of the product with the formation of a hollow space inside the trim.

The claimed method for producing decorative three-dimensional trim on objects is illustrated by particular cases of its implementation, namely, the production of a decorative volumetric element in the form of a male sculptural textile portrait (face) made of denim fabric on an item of clothing - a woman's dress. Fig. 1 shows a sketch of the finished trim in full face. Fig. 2 shows a sketch of the finished trim in semi-profile. Fig. 3 shows a sketch of the decorative volumetric element - a male portrait in semi-profile, Fig. 4 - a sketch of the portrait, which is also a projection of the portrait and a detail of the base. Figs. 5 and 6 show the stage of producing patterns for the trim details (patterns for the details of the male face). Figs. 7 and 8 show photo images of a dress with finished trim on a model and separately made trim, respectively.

The task is solved using the author's method of forming decorative trim from volumetric (convex) parts and flat parts that are in different planes, parallel to each other (close to parallel arrangement) or inclined. The planes are connected to each other by parts that form a relief in the planes perpendicular to the connected parts. The planes can be connected to each other at an angle of 90 degrees (close to perpendicular arrangement) or inclined.

Decorative trim is formed from volumetric (convex) and flat parts that are in parallel planes with the plane on which the surface area of the product is located, to which the trim is attached in any way: using threads, buttons, contact tape (Velcro), hooks, buttons, glue and other connecting methods and devices.

The planes of the arrangement of finishing parts can be parallel or located at an angle to the plane of the surface area of the product to which the finishing is attached.

The finishing parts are connected to each other by side parts, which are located in a plane perpendicular to the surface of the base or at some angle to it.

The parts are connected to each other and attached to the base of the trim made of fabric or other material. The base of the trim is a projection of the trim figure onto the fabric or other material (Fig. 4 - flat face). In our case, the sketch is a projection of the trim. Due to the fact that the base is cut out without allowances and decorative and constructive allowances, since it is a projection, its dimensions are smaller in all sections than the dimensions of the trim. Due to such a dimensional difference and the arrangement of the trim parts in different planes with the plane of the base, a three-dimensional trim is obtained.

Convex trim details are obtained by adding decorative and constructive allowances when cutting the details. Then the details are fitted,

are pressed, that is, they decrease in external size, become convex and are connected to the trim piece along the projection lines of the piece onto the fabric or other material.

The trim can be made with or without a base. If there is a base, the finished trim is connected to the base. The base is sewn to the surface of the product along the contour or attached to it in any other way, using buttons, Velcro, hooks, buttons, glue and other connecting methods and devices.

This results in a three-dimensional volumetric trim that is connected to the product only along the outer contour. The trim is hollow inside.

To obtain a three-dimensional form of finishing, the present invention uses structural and structural-technological means of shaping.

The constructive means of shaping are the lines of the main and internal division. The constructive and technological means of shaping are the fitting, pressing (shortening of the cuts of the parts).

The following seams were used:

1 - constructive, creating the shape of the product, but not visible or barely noticeable on the surface of the product (the seam of stitching the decorative trim to the base, the seams of stitching the internal parts of the mouth, etc.).

2 - constructive and decorative - all visible seams, used to: create shape (reliefs, side seams, seams for sewing in mustaches, eyebrows, etc.).

3 - decorative, playing an aesthetic role. They divide flat parts without creating a shape (hat facing, etc.).

Structural lines divide the surface of the product into parts and participate in shaping. These include seams connecting the face parts and darts.

Constructive and decorative lines participate in the formation of shapes and additionally decorate the surface of clothing (reliefs, etc.) Decorative lines additionally divide the shape, but do not carry

form-forming load.

Technological allowances were used to transform the two-dimensional surface of the material into a three-dimensional curved surface, in particular darts - open, with one internal end, which are located on the edge of the part - along the edges of the upper part of the face, the lower part of the face, eyebrows and cap. In addition, technological allowances include folds and seam allowances. Folds are used in the present invention when making the upper beard.

The method of forming the parts was selected in accordance with the surface configuration of the corresponding section (concavity or convexity) and the properties of the materials.

To obtain the shape and relief of the decorative trim specified in the sketch, structural and decorative additions were used in the construction of the patterns - details of the eyes and mustache.

Technological allowances were used when calculating darts and folds.

The patterns are presented without seam allowances to simplify the image (Fig. 5 and 6). In the actual sewing trim, seam allowances are used.

The parts can be sewn together using a sewing machine or hand stitched depending on the thickness of the material and the size of the parts.

Decorative three-dimensional finishing is made as follows.

First, a type of decorative finishing of an article is developed, containing N-th number of parts of different shapes and sizes of curvilinear and/or rectilinear configuration. In accordance with the example given in the description, a male sculptural textile portrait (face) is selected as the finishing (Fig. 1, 2, 3, 4, 7, 8). Flat parts in this application are finishing parts that do not contain either technological allowances or structural and decorative allowances. Side parts in this application are parts that form the volume of the finishing due to their arrangement in relation to other finishing parts at an angle of 90° or close to that. Volumetric parts in this application are parts that contain technological allowances and/or structural and decorative allowances.

Next, patterns are made for the parts (the trim pattern), which are shown on the figures without seam allowances, but are cut out, providing for seam allowances, as well as technological allowances (darts, folds) and structural and decorative allowances. The exception is the upper beard detail, since the upper part of the beard is edged with a fabric braid to form the lip. Next, the decorative trim elements are cut out (Fig. 3, 4). In Fig. 3 and 4 show the following parts: 1 - the lower part of the face, cut in one piece with the lower part of the beard (voluminous part), which is cut out taking into account the darts 2 along the lower contour, 3 - the upper part of the face (voluminous part), which is cut out taking into account the darts 4 along the upper contour, 5 - the side part, which is the side part of the nose and eyebrows, 6 and 7 - voluminous (convex) parts of the eyes, consisting of two round parts, cut out taking into account the constructive and decorative allowance 8 to obtain volume; 9 - flat detail of the base of the mouth, 10 - the first lateral (upper inner) detail of the mouth, 11 - the second lateral (lower inner) detail of the mouth, 12 - flat detail of the gums, 13 - flat detail (middle detail) of the beard, 14 - two volumetric detail of the upper moustache, cut out taking into account the structural and decorative allowance 15 for obtaining volume and dart 16; 17 - volumetric detail of the lower moustache, cut out taking into account the structural and decorative allowance 18 for obtaining volume, 19 - volumetric detail of the upper beard, cut out taking into account the technological allowance for folds 20; 21 - two volumetric details of the eyebrows, cut out taking into account the technological allowance for darts 22; 23 - a volumetric detail of the cap, cut out taking into account the technological allowance for darts 24. (The details forming the teeth and beard rings are not shown).

After the pattern is made, the decorative trim pieces are cut out taking into account seam allowances, they are connected together to form a single decorative trim piece, after which the trim pieces are connected to the product to obtain a finished three-dimensional decorative trim on the surface of the product.

Stages of production of three-dimensional decorative finishing.

Each eye consists of two round volumetric parts 6 and 7 (Fig. 3). The smaller part of the eye 7 is fitted. Fitting is the process of reducing the linear dimensions of parts in individual areas in order to give the desired shape or the required length. The processing technology is as follows: small stitches are made above and below (by 0.1 cm) the stitching line, after which, pulling the threads, the fabric is pulled to the desired length. Excess width is ironed using a damp cloth or with an iron with a humidifier so that all gathers disappear. You get a convex shape of the eye. Then the formed smaller part 7 of the eye is sewn into the round hole in the larger round part 6 of the eye. Then the larger part 6 of the eye is fitted along the contour on the thread, ironed and sewn into the round hole on part 1 of the face.

On the upper part of the 3rd face, darts 4 are sewn along the forehead line to create volume. On the lower part of the 1st face, darts 2 are sewn in the beard area to create volume.

On detail 21 of the eyebrows, darts 22 and 23 are sewn, the detail is folded in half and stitched to the superciliary part of the forehead line of the upper detail 3. The remaining section of the upper detail 3 of the face is sewn to the lower section of detail 1 of the face from points C to points B (Fig. 3).

Next, the side piece 5 of the nose and eyebrows is sewn between the lower piece 1 of the face with eyes 6 and 7 and the upper piece 3 of the face with the forehead along the lines formed by points A and B (Fig. 3). The side piece 5 of the nose and eyebrows is located at an angle of 90° degrees (or close to that) to the plane of the upper piece 3 of the face and to the plane of the lower piece 1 of the face. Piece 5 is attached to piece 3 along the line formed by points B-B. In this way, a convex nose is formed.

The whiskers consist of three elongated parts - two upper parts 14 whiskers and a lower part 17 whiskers (Fig. 4).

In the upper parts 14 of the whiskers, a dart 16 is sewn, located at the straight cut.

Then each piece of whiskers 14 and 17 is placed on a thread and pressed to give it a smooth convex shape.

The upper parts 14 of the mustache are sewn to the section of the side part 5 of the nose and the eyebrows at the wings of the nose on each side of the nose along lines D-D.

The lower part 17 of the mustache is sewn to the section of the side part of the nose and eyebrow, located under the tip of the nose.

Next, the upper parts 14 of the whiskers are sewn together with the lower part 17 of the whiskers along the connection line, forming one part of the whiskers.

The moustache is ground to the lower part of the 1st face along the lines of the opening 25 for the moustache, which is the projection of the moustache, leaving a section for further stitching of the inclined cuts of the beard (parts 13 and 19). A convex moustache shape is obtained.

The beard consists of two parts: the upper part 19 and the curved middle part 13 with sewn-on rings 26 made of textile strip. The upper part 19 of the beard is a pattern with provided allowances for one-sided soft full folds 20 (a fold is full, then its depth is twice its width) (soft folds are folds that are not ironed).

The folds 20 are laid and voluminous vertical strips are obtained, which form the hair on the beard. On top, the beard detail 19 in the mouth area is edged with a strip of fabric to form the lip.

Beard rings 26 can be formed from a strip of fabric folded in half, cut on the bias for elasticity.

The curved middle part 13 of the beard is ground to the upper part 19 of the beard, and at the same time the formed rings 26 of the beard are stitched into the seam of the joint.

Along the inclined cuts, the upper 19 and middle parts 13 of the beard are sewn with a section of part 17 of the lower moustache.

The middle piece 13 of the beard is sewn to the lower piece 1 of the face in the chin area.

The 12th gum piece is sewn onto the lip piece.

The teeth are formed from a strip of fabric folded in half.

The upper and lower side inner parts 10 and 11 of the mouth are sewn along the short side cuts and sewn together with part 9 of the base of the mouth along the straight cuts.

The upper inner part 10 of the mouth is sewn together with a section on the lower edge of the lower part 17 of the mustache, while simultaneously sewing the teeth into the seam of the joint.

The lower inner part 11 is ground together with the part 12 of the gum, while simultaneously sewing the teeth into the seam of the connection.

On the volumetric part 23 of the cap, darts 24 are sewn, the lower edge is processed with a facing from the same fabric, with the subsequent turning of the latter to the front side of the cap and sewn with a blind hand stitch.

Part 23 of the cap is sewn to the top part 3 of the face along the contour.

The portrait detail is folded face to face with the base detail (Fig. 4) and stitched, leaving an opening for turning the details to the front side. The seam allowances are ironed to the finishing side. Then this opening is sewn up with a hand blind stitch and sewn to the product.

The trim can be sewn onto the product immediately. In this case, a line of attachment corresponding to the portrait projection is applied to the product. In the case of connecting the trim to the base and further sewing to the product, the trim acquires the property of mobility and can be attached to different types of clothing and other products. Thus, by using the claimed method, a volumetric-spatial form of decorative trim is obtained.

Claims (1)

A method for producing a decorative three-dimensional trim of a male face on products, according to which trim patterns are made, decorative trim pieces are cut out, decorative trim pieces are connected to each other to form a single decorative trim piece, a single trim piece is connected to the product to obtain a finished three-dimensional decorative trim on the surface of the product, characterized in that the decorative trim is made from flat pieces, wherein the flat pieces are made in the form of a piece (9) of the base of the mouth, a piece (12) of the gum, a piece (13) of the beard, three-dimensional pieces that form the volume of the trim due to the content of structural and decorative allowances and/or technological allowances, wherein the three-dimensional pieces are made in the form of a lower piece (1) of the face with a beard piece and contain darts (2) along the lower contour, an upper piece (3) of the face and contain darts (4) along the upper contour, two round pieces (6 and 7) of the eyes, cut with structural and decorative allowances (8), two pieces (14) of the upper moustache, cut out with structural and decorative allowances (15) and darts (16), piece (17) of the lower moustache, cut out with a structural and decorative allowance (18), piece (19) of the upper beard, cut out with a technological allowance for folds (20), two pieces (21) of the eyebrows, cut out with technological allowances for darts (22), and side pieces made in the form of piece (5) of the nose and brow ridge, the first piece (10) of the mouth and the second piece (11) of the mouth, wherein the flat and volumetric pieces are arranged in the trim parallel to the surface of the product or at an angle, and the side pieces are connected to the flat and/or volumetric pieces perpendicular to the surface of the product or at an angle, the trim is connected to the product along the outer contour formed by the projection of the trim onto the surface of the product with the formation of a hollow space inside the trim.