JPH06287835A - Spun silk-like cloth - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide cloth which is silk-like because it is composed of filaments having random fineness and random cross section as well as having a soft touch due to extremely fine filaments and an appropriate elasticity. CONSTITUTION:The spun silk-like cloth is characterized in that the multifilament yarn consisting filaments whose fineness and cross section shape are different from each other in the lengthwise direction and the vertical direction and does not substantially change in the lengthwise direction are used at least in part to from the objective cloth where at least more than 5% of filaments constituting the multifilament yarn has more than 1.0 denier fineness and the minimum fineness of the filaments is less than 0.1 denier, further the shape of the cross section in each filament is not round and substantially not equal to each other and more than 5% of the filaments has the cross section of less than 5:1 flatness.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a fabric composed of multifilaments composed of single yarns having different fineness and cross-sectional shape.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Fabrics made of synthetic fibers generally have uniform physical properties and a monotonous texture, so that they tend to be poor in fashionability and high-grade feeling compared to natural fibers.
In order to overcome such drawbacks, the present applicant has previously filed Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No.
In Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 9-100717, a composite filament in which polymers having different dyeability are randomly laminated is proposed. By dyeing this composite filament, it was possible to obtain a silk-like cloth that exerts an extremely unique dyeing effect and produces an iridescent color tone.

Further, the applicant of the present invention has disclosed in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 63-13553.
In Japanese Patent Publication No. 9, it was proposed that a fabric composed of composite filaments in which polymers having different dissolution rates were randomly laminated was subjected to a dissolution treatment to obtain a fabric composed of filaments having a fineness and a random cross-sectional shape. Since the cloth is composed of a unique filament having a large cross-sectional shape with a large difference in fineness, it has a soft and unique texture with a silk squeal,
It opened up new possibilities for synthetic fibers.

[0004]

However, the fabric described in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 63-135539 still has some points to be improved. That is, in order to obtain filaments with a large difference in fineness, it is naturally necessary to generate ultrafine filaments of 0.1 denier or less, but if the proportion of such ultrafine filaments becomes high, the texture will be firm. There was a problem that the feeling disappeared and pilling occurred. With respect to such a problem, a simple method of mixing regular filaments having a large fineness, for example, would rather reduce the texture of the specific filament, and could not solve the problem.

The single-filament filaments obtained from the random-laminated composite filaments as described above are certainly random in terms of the fineness and shape of each single-filament filament and do not seem to have any control. If you grasp it, it is a controlled filament group that falls within a specific standard, and if it is not such a yarn, it will be difficult to stabilize and guarantee the quality of the product. That is, the above-mentioned single-filament filaments are not completely controlled and uniform like ordinary synthetic fibers, but they are neither random nor completely controlled. For this reason, in order to further improve the above-mentioned fabric, there has been a demand for a measure for keeping the distribution of the fineness and shape of the single-yarn filament at random but within a specific standard.

The present invention is intended to solve the above problems, and an object thereof is a silk-like cloth composed of filaments having a fineness and a random cross-sectional shape, and having a soft texture of an ultrafine filament and an appropriate degree. It is to provide a fabric that has a feeling of tightness.

[0007]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides a multifilament composed of single-filament filaments whose fineness and cross-sectional shape are different from each other in a cross section in a longitudinal direction and a vertical direction and do not substantially change in the longitudinal direction. Which is used as at least a part of the multifilament yarn, at least 5% or more (in terms of number) of the single yarns constituting the multifilament yarn has a fineness of 1.0 denier or more, and the minimum fineness of the single yarn is 0. .1 denier or less, and the cross-sectional shape of each single yarn is non-circular and substantially different from each other, and 50% or more (converted to the number) has a flatness of 5: 1 or less. The silk-spun fabric is characterized by that.

The cloth according to the present invention uses at least a part of the multifilament described in detail below,
The organization is not particularly limited. Further, it goes without saying that other fibers may be mixed by interweaving, interlacing, intertwisting, mixed fiber, etc. as long as the texture and effect of the multifilament are not impaired. It may be crimped by a method.

The multifilament constituting the cloth according to the present invention will be described in detail below. The multifilament here means a unit treated as one yarn by additional twisting or the like in the weaving or preweaving process.

The multifilament is composed of single yarns having different fineness and cross-sectional shape. However, this is in the cross section perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the multifilament, and the fineness and the cross-sectional shape of each single yarn do not substantially change in the longitudinal direction. However, the term “substantially” here means that it does not prevent a change in the fineness of a thick and thin yarn.

First, the cross-sectional shape of each single yarn will be described. Since the cross-sectional shapes of the individual filaments of the multifilament are substantially the same, they have various shapes. However, when these shapes are sampled and statistically analyzed, 50% or more in terms of the number thereof has a flatness of 5: 1 or less, preferably 4: 1 or less, that is, a relatively round shape based on a circular shape. It is a thing. Here, the flatness is the ratio (L / l) of the length (L) of the maximum major axis and the length (l) of the maximum minor axis, as shown in FIG.

Next, the fineness distribution of each single yarn will be described. Similar to the cross-sectional shape, the fineness of each single yarn of the multifilament is substantially different, and therefore the distribution is seemingly random. However, when these distributions are sampled and statistically analyzed, 5% or more in terms of the number is 1.
It is composed of a single fine yarn having a fineness of 0 denier or more, preferably 1.2 denier or more. Further, the minimum fineness single yarn is 0.1 denier or less, preferably 0.09 denier or less, and further, the fineness fineness single yarn of 0.1 denier or less is preferably present in 5% or more of the whole in terms of number. However, if the number of single fine yarns having a fineness of 0.1 denier or less exceeds 30% (converted to the number of yarns), pilling will be significantly generated, so it is preferable to avoid it. Above, we have described relatively thick single yarns and thin single yarns, but single yarns with an intermediate fineness naturally exist in the multifilament, and a smooth fineness distribution from single yarns with the smallest fineness to single yarns with the maximum fineness is provided. It is preferable to show.

The distribution of these single yarns is obtained by, for example, taking photographs of the cross section of the fabric at several places, measuring the shape and cross-sectional area of the single yarn,
This can be clarified by analyzing this with a statistical method. At this time, what is analyzed as one single yarn is that which can be freely moved around while separated from the adjacent single yarn (considering that those that are simply in contact are separated). The number of single yarns constituting the multifilament varies depending on the total fineness of the multifilaments used, etc., but when the fineness distribution as described above is shown, the number of single yarns of 0.01 denier or more is usually about 40 to 150. Will.

Next, a method of manufacturing the cloth according to the present invention will be described. As for the multifilament having the above-mentioned unique distribution, it is most rational to divide the following composite filaments by dissolution treatment to obtain a single yarn. That is, the composite filament has a mutual affinity and a dissolution rate of 5 times in a solvent or a decomposing agent,
Preferably, a plurality of fiber-forming synthetic polymers of easily soluble components and slightly soluble components that differ by about 10 times or more are joined as described below. Here, the fiber-forming synthetic polymer mainly refers to polyester or polyamide, and may be a modified product thereof. Also, the difference in the dissolution rate in a solvent or a decomposing agent means that there is a difference in the solubility in an organic or inorganic solvent, or in the case of polyester, there is a difference in the resistance to a chemical agent such as caustic soda that acts as a hydrolyzing agent. Say. Usually, the dissolution action in the solvent proceeds at a substantially constant rate until the saturated state is reached, but it is preferable that the dissolution rate and the decomposition rate in such a constant rate dissolution progress state are within the above ranges.

Examples of such a combination of the fiber-forming synthetic polymer include a combination of polyethylene terephthalate or polyamide and an alkali easily soluble polyester, and such an alkali easily soluble polyester is a polyethylene terephthalate component. Examples thereof include block polyether polyesters obtained by copolymerizing polyalkylene glycol having an average molecular weight of about 600 to 2000, and copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with a metal salt of sulfoisophthalic acid at about several mol%.

What is important in such a manufacturing method is to carry out composite spinning of the above-mentioned polymer as follows and laminate it in a specific cross-sectional shape. One example thereof will be described based on FIG. In FIG. 2, two kinds of polymers melted by separate extruders are introduced into a storage part (21) of a die pack (20) and contact at a meeting part (22) through a filler or a grid-shaped guide hole. The static kneading element (23) provided below the meeting portion (22) creates a laminated composite state, and the outlet portion (24) spreading downward in a conical shape concentrically maintains the laminated composite shape. And is discharged from the spinning hole (25). Here, the static kneading element (2
Examples of 3) include "Statex Mixer" manufactured by Kenix Co., Ltd., and the number of kneading elements is suitably 1 to 4 in the case of dividing into 2 layers per element. The laminated composite state formed by such a kneading element does not substantially change with time and has a cross-sectional shape such as a so-called "Kintaro candy" in which the laminated composite state continues at the start of discharge. Is. Further, the number of spinning holes (25) is preferably at least 6 or more, and it is preferable that they are evenly arranged in plane symmetry on the spinneret (26) so as not to disturb the polymer flow.

The shape of each spinning hole (25) is shown in FIG.
As shown in FIGS. 4 (a) to 4 (d), the shape is a 5-8 leaf shape, which is based on a circular shape and is provided with protrusions at substantially equal intervals. As shown in FIG. It is preferable that the projection ratio (r / R), which is the ratio of the diameter (R) of the circle to the diameter (r) of the maximum inscribed circle, is about 0.6 to 0.85. In the above-mentioned fine fine single yarn, the number of the protrusions is important because the protrusions of the composite filament are separated and generated by the later-described dissolution treatment. It is difficult to obtain a large number of fine filament single yarns because of the small number of filaments, and when it exceeds 8 lobes, it is difficult to form a prominent protrusion shape while maintaining an appropriate protrusion rate. The composite filament spun in this manner has a cross-sectional shape in which a plurality of polymers are laminated as shown in FIGS. 4 (a) (c) (d), and the number of laminated layers is about 2-5. Is preferred.

In the figure, the black portion shows the easily soluble component (41), but the easily soluble component and the poorly soluble component (4)
The bonding ratio of 2) is 1: 2 or more. This is because, for example, if both components are bonded at a ratio of 1: 1 and the ratio of easily soluble components is increased,
This is because the amount of dissolution is increased and the fabric is fluffy, or the number of divisions of the composite filament is increased and only single yarns having a relatively fineness are generated and the single yarn distribution of the present invention cannot be obtained. . Further, the easily soluble component (41) is preferably arranged in a relatively straight line without being bent so much in the cross section of the composite filament. Usually, in the composite spinning, when different polymer components are joined, the shearing force received by each component is different, so that the polymer tends to bend in a "dogleg" shape. When the easily-dissolved component bends in this way, the single yarn obtained by the division has a thin skin flat shape, and the single yarn defined in the present invention cannot be obtained. Therefore, it is important to spin the composite filament having the cross-sectional shape in consideration of the shape and arrangement of the spinning holes (25), the bonding ratio of each component, and the like.

The fabric according to the present invention is obtained by knitting and weaving using such a composite filament, and then subjecting the greige to a dissolution treatment to remove the easily soluble components. At this time, it is preferable that the dissolution rate be approximately in accordance with the content of the easily soluble component, but it is not particularly limited as long as the hardly soluble component can be divided. However, if excessive dissolution processing is performed,
Since the erosion of the poorly soluble component progresses and as a result the tear strength of the fabric is reduced and the fineness of all the single yarns is increased, it is preferable to limit the content to about 50%. By performing such a dissolution treatment, the end portion of the single yarn has a sharp edge, and when the cloth is touched, the skin and the surface of the single yarn come into line contact with each other, so that a dry touch feeling is exhibited. .

Further, the cloth according to the present invention is not limited to the one composed of the single yarn obtained from the composite filament, and may be mixed with other fibers. For example, a different-shrink mixed yarn of the composite filament and the high-shrink yarn may be used, or a different-shrink mixed yarn having a difference in heat shrinkage due to a difference in thermal history between the composite filaments.
By using the different shrinkage mixed yarn, the touch of the cloth surface becomes too moist and the feeling of tightness is poor with the normal round cross section and irregular cross section microfibers. The dry touch feeling is also emphasized.

[0021]

The fabric of the present invention has a multifilament composed of single yarns having different fineness and cross-sectional shape, and thus has a natural fiber-like, particularly silk-like texture. Moreover, the single yarn is based on a circular shape having a flatness ratio of 5: 1 or less. Since each single yarn is easy to move, it has a soft texture. Furthermore, the fineness distribution of each single yarn is random, but statistically, a relatively large fineness of 1.0 denier or more occupies a specific ratio, so that a stable tension feeling is exhibited.

[0022]

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate (bright) having an intrinsic viscosity (η) of 0.64 and polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity (η) of 0.50 and 2.5 mol of sodium sulfoisophthalic acid. %, And a block polyether polyester obtained by copolymerizing 7% by weight of polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 2000 with a bonding ratio of 2: 1 and 3:
1 using the composite spinning apparatus shown in FIG.
Spin at 10 ℃, winding speed 1500m / min, 10
A 0d / 48f composite filament was obtained.

At this time, a static mixer (number of elements: 4) manufactured by Kenix Co., Ltd. was used as a static kneading element.
Forty eight spinning holes were arranged on the circumference at equal intervals. In addition, each spinning hole has a six-lobed shape as shown in FIG.
It was 1. 250 for such composite multifilament yarn
T / M is additionally twisted and used for warp and weft 111 warps / in
A plain weave of ch, 80 wefts / inch was woven. Next, it was treated with a 2% caustic soda solution at 98 ° C for 30 minutes to reduce the alkali weight by 35%, and the density after finishing was 1%.
35 pieces / inch and weft 97 pieces / inch were obtained.

The cross section of the obtained cloth was 10
The shape and fineness of the single yarn generated from one composite multifilament were observed at 5 times with an electron microscope at a magnification of 00, and the fineness distribution shown in FIGS. Further, the texture of the obtained fabric is shown in Table 1. As is clear from Table 1, the fabric according to the present invention had a soft silk-like texture peculiar to microfiber and an appropriate tension due to the mixture of thick and thin threads, and the occurrence of pilling was small. . Incidentally, FIG. 7 shows an electron micrograph (1000
Times).

Comparative Example 1 A plain weave fabric obtained in exactly the same manner as in Example 1 except that the shape of the spinning holes was three-lobed with a protrusion ratio of 0.50, the single yarn was analyzed in the same manner. As a result, it showed the fineness distribution shown in FIG. In addition, Table 1 shows the texture of the obtained plain woven fabric. As is clear from Table 1,
The plain woven fabric was inferior in soft feeling to the fabric of the present invention. It is to be noted that FIG. 8 shows an electron micrograph (× 1000) of an example of a transverse cross section.

(Comparative Example 2) In Example 1, the joining ratio of the composite filament was 1: 1 and the alkali weight loss ratio was 53%.
When the distribution of single yarns was analyzed in the same manner for the plain woven fabric obtained in exactly the same manner as above, the fineness distribution shown in FIG. 7 was shown. In the single yarn distribution, the ratio of single yarn having a denier of 1.0 denier or more (converted to the number of yarns) was 2%. As is clear from Table 1, the plain woven fabric had a soft texture, but because only a small number of single yarns of large fineness were mixed, the tension was insufficient and pilling was remarkable.

Example 2 A composite yarn A having a splicing ratio of 2: 1 was obtained by using the polymer used in Example 1 and a spinning pack and using 24 spinning holes. On the other hand, a high shrinkage polymer obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with 8 mol% of isophthalic acid and the block polyether polyester of Example 1 were used to obtain a composite yarn B having a splicing ratio of 2: 1. These yarns were placed in a twisting machine, and the composite yarn A was in contact with the plate heater, and the composite yarn B was not in contact with the plate heater, and was then subjected to interlace treatment. The obtained yarn is 100d / 48f, the boiling water shrinkage is 35%, and the degree of entanglement is 35 /
It was m. The different shrinkage mixed yarn was subjected to additional twisting of 350 T / M and used as a warp and weft to weave a 2/2 twill fabric. Then, alkali reduction is applied to 37% and finish processing is performed, and the resulting fabric has a warp / weft density of 135/103 yarns / inch.
Met.

For the obtained woven fabric, the same procedure as in Example 1
Analysis of the different shrinkage mixed yarns shows that the number of single yarns is 85, the minimum fineness is 0.04d, and the flatness ratio is 5: 1 or less.
%Met. Further, the texture of the woven fabric was an excellent silk-spun woven fabric having the fluffiness of the differently-shrinked mixed yarn and the surface touch of the ultrafine yarn, and the pilling and tearing strength had no practical problems at all.

Example 3 Using the polymer used in Example 1 and the spinning pack, using 36 spinning holes, spinning was performed at a splicing ratio of 3: 1 and stretched to obtain a 50d / 36f composite yarn. Obtained. On the other hand, a polymer obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with 8 mol% of isophthalic acid was separately spun in a trilobal section and stretched to obtain a high shrinkage yarn of 30d / 12f. 80d /
A heterogeneous shrinkage mixed yarn having 48f, a boiling water shrinkage rate of 40% and an entanglement degree of 40 yarns / m was obtained. 400 T / M of additional twist was applied to the different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn and used as a warp and weft to weave a plain woven fabric. Then
Finishing was performed by applying an alkali weight loss of 18% to obtain a woven fabric having a warp / weft density of 170/121 yarns / inch.

For the obtained woven fabric, the same procedure as in Example 1
An analysis of two different shrinkage mixed yarns revealed that the number of single yarns excluding the three-lobe cross-section high shrinkage yarn was 61 single yarns and the minimum fineness was 0.0
The ratio of 5d and the aspect ratio of 5: 1 or less was 78%.
Further, the texture of the woven fabric had an excellent sensitivity of microfiber touch due to the appearance of ultrafine yarn to medium fineness yarn.

[0031]

[Table 1]

[0032]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION The fabric according to the present invention has the irregular appearance and texture of silk expressed by the synthetic fiber. In addition to the soft texture, the fabric also has an appropriate tension feeling. It is a fabric that can be held and can express sensibilities that could not be expressed by conventional synthetic fibers.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is an explanatory diagram for calculating a flatness rate.

FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view of a spinneret pack for producing a composite filament used in producing the fabric of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a plan view of a mouthpiece portion of the mouthpiece pack of FIG.

FIG. 4 is an explanatory view showing the shape of a spinning hole of the spinneret pack of FIG.

FIG. 5 is a graph showing the fineness distribution of the single yarn filament of the plain woven fabric according to the present invention.

FIG. 6 is a graph showing the fineness distribution of single-filament filaments of the plain woven fabric outside the present invention.

FIG. 7 is a graph showing the fineness distribution of single-filament filaments of the plain weave outside the present invention.

FIG. 8 is an electron micrograph of a cross section of the plain weave according to the present invention, showing the shape of the fibers.

FIG. 9 is an electron micrograph of a cross section of a plain weave fabric outside the present invention, showing the shape of fibers.

─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁵ Identification code Internal reference number FI Technical display location D01F 8/14 Z 7199-3B D06M 11/38 // D06M 101: 32 (72) Inventor Shoichiro Noguchi 2-2-H302 Kabudai, Kizu-cho, Soraku-gun, Kyoto Prefecture

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A multifilament composed of single-filament filaments whose fineness and cross-sectional shape are different from each other in a cross section in a longitudinal direction and a vertical direction and which does not substantially change in a longitudinal direction is used at least in part. In the case of a fabric, at least 5% or more (in terms of number) of single yarns constituting the multifilament yarn has a fineness of 1.0 denier or more, and the single yarn has a minimum fineness of 0.1 denier or less, and The silk-spun fabric is characterized in that the cross-sectional shape of each single yarn is non-circular and substantially different from each other, and 50% or more (converted to the number) has a flatness of 5: 1 or less. Cloth.