JPH0425251B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to compositions and methods for waving or straightening hair, particularly human hair. In particular, the present invention relates to compositions and methods described above for conditioning or improving hair. Hair waving or waving (often referred to as "permanent" treatment) usually involves the use of agents (hereinafter referred to as "reducing agents" or compositions containing reducing agents) that reduce or cleave the disulfide bonds of keratin in the hair. Hereinafter referred to as “for reduction” or “waving”
After applying a "composition" or "lotion" to shape the hair without internal elasticity or other resistance, a neutralizing agent that regenerates the keratin bonds is applied to fix the hair in the desired new shape. It is. Generally, the neutralizing agent is an oxidizing solution such as an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide. Apart from the waving and straightening of the hair with reducing lotions, there is the so-called relaxation of the hair using strong alkalis, usually in the form of pastes or creams. The mechanism of action of alkali is different from that of reducing agents in ordinary permanent waving and stretching.
In the latter case, the disulfide bonds in keratin remain intact until they are cleaved and restored by the neutralizing agent, whereas in the case of caustic treatment, the disulfide bonds in keratin are converted to monosulfide bonds and are then cleaved by the acid. "Neutralization" is simply the ordinary neutralization of the residual base with an acid. Therefore, "waving" and "stretching" as used herein
did not consider the relaxation of hair by strong bases. Waving or straightening hair with reducing agents such as mercaptans, sulfites or phosphines almost always makes the hair feel rough and difficult to comb. This applies to all hair types and is particularly troublesome for hair that has been bleached, dyed or exposed to the atmosphere for long periods before waving. A common method to alleviate this is to treat wavy hair with hair styling products such as alkyl-dimethylbenzyl halides, mustard oil emulsions, lanolin, and the like. Hair conditioners of this type are commonly used in the neutralization step of waving or straightening methods. Although this hair styling composition improves the feel of the hair and makes it easier to comb, the effect is temporary and completely disappears after the hair is washed. Sokol, US Pat. No. 3,912,808, discloses a method for waving or straightening hair using a waving lotion containing a reducing agent and polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride, a cationic polymer. The method of this patent has been used on industrial products and has been tested and compared for this application. Polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride is not used in the present invention. U.S. Pat. No. 4,175,572 to Hisiyung et al. is directed to a caustic hair relaxant containing, among other things, polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride, and is not directed to waving or straightening. The polymer can be used separately from the alkaline relaxant or before or after its application. Acidic hair washing is said to be used after hair relaxation or conditioning to remove excess alkaline solution. There is no mention of the final hair washing step or its composition, nor does it state that it is part of the conditioning method. In this sense it is considered to be equivalent to the commercial product based on the above-mentioned US Pat. No. 3,912,808, which uses a cationic surfactant in the neutralizing composition. In contrast, the present invention, in addition to not using polydimethylallylammonium chloride, specifically requires the presence of a cationic surfactant that forms a conditioning precipitate in the presence of hair. Furthermore, the present invention is not useful with strong alkaline relaxant compositions. A durable hair conditioning method has now been discovered that has special benefits over the usual techniques of waving or straightening hair and that lasts through repeated washings. This method involves treating the hair with a waving aqueous composition that includes a reducing agent and an effective amount of a cationic polymer called Clairquat-1 (described in more detail below) and then treating the hair with an oxidizing agent and an anionic surface. treatment with an aqueous neutralizing composition containing an activator. As a result of the initial reduction step during waving (or straightening) followed by the neutralization step and the unique combination of ingredients, a conditioning complex is produced in the hair that is stable to repeated washings. It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a method of waving or straightening hair that will keep the hair in a condition that will withstand repeated washings. It is an object of the present invention to provide a convenient composition for carrying out the above method. Further details of the objects of the invention will become apparent from the specification and claims. In the following specification and claims, where possible, drugs will be described by their CTFA names as found in the Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary of the Cosmetic Fragrance and Fragrance Association. Before explaining the cationic polymer called Clairquat-1, which is useful for the purpose of the present invention, we will first discuss other types of cationic polymers similar to this.
After that, I will talk about Clairquat-1. The molecular weight of this cationic polymer is expressed on a weight average basis. Another slightly preferred type is Polyquaternium-1, a quaternized polymer with quaternized ethanolamine end groups, commercially available from Onyx Chemicals under the name Onamer M (hereinafter referred to as Onamer). Dimethylbutenyl ammonium chloride has the formula: It is said to have n in the above formula is a cardinal number proportional to the molecular weight, and the molecular weight is 800 to 5000,
Preferably it is 1000 to 3500. Other types of cationic polymers are polymers and copolymers of quaternized polyvinylamine, which are prepared in a manner known per se. These are the following repeating units: (In the formula, R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ may be the same or different groups and represent an alkyl group having ¹ to 20 carbon atoms, and (represents an anion)
It is believed to consist of Molecular weight is 3000
150,000 to 150,000 is preferable. This polymer is hereinafter referred to as "QPVAMINE". Repeat unit as an example: One example is trimethylpolyvinylammonium sulfate, which is believed to be composed of
It has an average molecular weight of about 50,000. Another type of cationic material is a polymer of quaternized poly-4-vinylpyridine, which is prepared in a manner known per se. This is the general formula: (wherein R represents an alkyl group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms and X ^- represents an anion used in cosmetics such as a halide, sulfate or carboxylate). This also ranges from about 5,000 to about
It has a molecular weight of 500,000. This polymer is hereinafter referred to as "QPVP". An example of this type of cationic polymer is: There is also polyvinylmethylpyridinium iodide with an average molecular weight of about 50,000. A cationic polymer that has been found to give particularly good results in accordance with the present invention is poly(methacryl-amidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride), available from Texaco Chemicals.
It is produced by polymerizing the corresponding monomer, commercially available as MAPTAC, in a manner known per se.
This polymer has repeating units: (In the formula, n is proportional to the molecular weight.) The molecular weight is preferably 5,000 to 500,000. This polymer was later referred to as “Clairquat”.
1". As mentioned above, the specific cationic polymer Clairquat-1 is included in the reducing lotion used in this method. The amount of cationic polymer included in the reducing lotion depends on the desired result. Although it varies somewhat, it usually ranges from about 0.2% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the reducing lotion, with an optimal range of about 1% to about 5%.
Weight%. The structural properties and known physicochemical properties of cationic polymers cannot be used to predict whether they can be used in the present invention. Therefore, many cationic polymers have been found to be unsuitable as hair conditioning agents when used in place of those disclosed herein. Some of the cationic polymers that have been found to be unsatisfactory include: quaternized poly-2-vinylpyridine; adipic acid and epoxypropyldiethylenetriamine copolymer (commercially available from Hercules Chemical Company under the name Delcet 101); adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine copolymer (commercially available from Sandoz Company under the name Cartalechik F-4); poly(N-(3-dimethylamino)propyl)-
N'-(3-(ethyleneoxyethylenedimethylamino)propyl)urea dichloride (laminol
Quaternium-23. A quaternary ammonium polymer produced by the reaction of dimethyl sulfate and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (commercially available from GAF Chemical Co. under the name Milanol A15); Quaternium-23. Quaternium-19. Polymer of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with epichlorohydrin and then quaternized with trimethylamine (commercially available from Union Carbide under the name Polymer JR-400); hydrated Quaternary ammonium derivative of degraded collagen protein (commercially available from Croda under the name Crotein Q); Quaternium-39. Copolymer of acrylamide and beta-methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate (Reten 205M from Hercules Chemical) (commercially available under the name Catrex); a copolymer of aminoethyl acrylate phosphate and acrylate (commercially available from National Starch under the name Catrex); and Quaternium-41, a copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylamide.
(commercially available from Merck & Co. under the name Melwatt-550). In addition to the cationic polymer, the waving or reducing lotion used in the present invention can also contain other common ingredients commonly used in waving lotions. Therefore, the lotion vehicle is an aqueous vehicle mixed with one or more reducing agents. Many reducing agents useful in waving or straightening hair are known in the art. Examples are thioglycolic acid, cysteine, thiolactic acid, sodium, potassium and ammonium sulfites and bisulfites, tris(hydroxyethylphosphine). Although the invention can be used with all waving and wave stretching compositions, in the preferred form of the invention the reducing agent used is thioglycolic acid and an alkali metal salt, such as the sodium salt of sulfite (e.g. sulfite and bisulfite). ). The amount of reducing agent included in the waving lotion will also vary somewhat depending on the reducing agent selected and the desired result. However, waving lotions typically contain from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight of reducing agent, based on their total weight. The reducing agent accounts for about 2 to about 20% of the total weight of the lotion.
Optimal results are obtained at 10% by weight. As used herein and in the claims, "effective amount" of any component of a composition means an amount effective to achieve its intended use. In general, there is no significance in the concentration ranges given, and the invention lies not in the specific concentrations, but rather in the ingredients themselves. The most effective amount can be determined through practical trials. Additionally, waving lotions can also contain fragrances, alkalizing agents and other common waving lotion ingredients. Most lotions have a PH range of about 5 to about 10. The second key component of the formulation of the present invention is the amphoteric or anionic detergent that forms part of the neutralizing lotion. There are a number of amphoteric detergents suitable for use in the present invention. However, two types of detergents have been found to be particularly effective. The first type has the formula: (wherein R represents a long-chain aliphatic group having 10 to 18 carbon atoms). A typical example of this compound is where R is a coconut aliphatic group. A material with this property is known as Amphoterik-2 and is commercially available under the name Milanor CZMSF. A second type of amphoteric detergent is particularly effective for the purposes of the present invention and has the formula: R-NH- _CH2 - _CH2 -COOH, where R represents a long chain aliphatic alkyl group having 10 to 18 carbon atoms. It is expressed as R in the formula of such exemplary detergents is a mixture of lauryl and myristyl aliphatic alkyl groups. This substance is known as lauraminopropionic acid and has a temperature of 170°C.
It is marketed under the name. Not all amphoteric surfactants were suitable. Betaines could not be used in the present invention. Since betaine is a zwitterionic compound, it was expected that zwitterionic surfactants would not be suitable, but there were zwitterionic surfactants that could be used. As used in the specification and claims, "ampholyte surfactant product" refers to amphoteric surfactants suitable in the present invention. Whether an amphoteric surfactant is an "ampholyte surfactant product" can be easily determined in a conventional manner by adding its aqueous solution to an alkaline PH solution of one of the cationic polymers of the present invention. If precipitation occurs, the amphoteric surfactant is an "ampholytic surfactant product." Since amphoteric surfactants become anionic above their pKa value, "anionic surfactants" as used in the specification and claims refer to anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactant products. It encompasses both. All anionic detergents tested have been found to be usable in the present invention. Thus alkyl sulfonates, alkyl sulfates, sulfonated and sulfated alkyl ethers, and salts of long chain carboxylic acids (chain length at least up to C ₁₀ ) form tunable complexes. Examples of anionic detergents useful in the present invention include sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, TEA lauryl sulfate, sodium stearate, and the like. The amount of amphoteric or anionic detergent included in the neutralizing lotions of this invention will vary somewhat depending on economics and desired results. However, this amount typically ranges from about 0.2% to about 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the neutralizing lotion.
Preferably it will range from about 0.5 to about 20% by weight. The neutralizing lotion can also contain other ingredients commonly used in neutralizing lotions such as those used in hair waving or hair straightening procedures.
Again, the excipient is usually an excipient aqueous solution containing an oxidizing agent that helps to "neutralize" the effects of the reducing agent contained in the waving lotion when it is applied to the head.
Numerous oxidizing agents for this purpose are known to those skilled in the art. These include hydrogen peroxide, sodium and potassium bromate, and sodium perborate. The amount of oxidizing agent included in the neutralizing lotion will also vary somewhat depending on the oxidizing agent chosen and the desired result. The amount of the lubricant is from about 0.2 to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the neutralizing lotion. The preferred amount of oxidizing agent in the present invention is from about 1 to about 10% by weight of the total weight of the neutralizing lotion. In addition to the above, other ingredients that may be included in neutralizing lotions include organic and inorganic acids (eg, phosphoric acid, citric acid, etc.). The pH of neutralizing lotions is usually within the range of about 2 to about 10, unless an amphoteric surfactant is used, so that the pH tends to be more basic. Since ampholytic surfactants are anionic at basic pH, if the pH of the neutralizing composition is greater than or equal to the pKa value of the amphoteric surfactant product, it is considered an “anionic” product as used herein and in the claims. "Surfactant" includes amphoteric surfactant products. The composition of the invention comprises a bottle containing a waving lotion containing at least one of the listed cationic polymers and a reducing agent and another containing a reducing solution containing a reducing agent and an anionic surfactant. It is conveniently available commercially in a two-bottle package. The following examples are intended to more fully illustrate the characteristics of the invention, but are not intended to limit the scope of the invention. Example 1 Waving lotion - A hair waving lotion was produced with the following composition: wt% ammonium thioglycolate 7.0 monoethanolamine 3.5 fragrance 0.1 Claire quat - 1 3.0 total volume with water 100.0 neutralizing lotion - A lotion was prepared with the following composition: % by weight ammonium lauryl sulfate 3.0 Hydrogen peroxide 1.4 Phosphoric acid 0.1 Added water to a total volume of 100.0 In addition to the above samples, cationic polymers and anionic detergents were not used, respectively. Glossion and neutralizing lotion were manufactured. Four strands of Caucasian virgin hair were treated under the same temperature and time conditions and then washed and neutralized. These were wound into 1/2 inch rods, two of which were saturated with polymer-containing waving lotion and the other two with waving lotion without cationic polymer. All four pieces were wrapped in saran wrap and placed in a 35°C oven for 20 minutes. After a period of time, the waving lotion was rinsed off and the sample was treated with a neutralizing solution for 5 minutes while still on the rod. Two waved tassels (one waved with a solution with polymer and one treated with a solution without polymer) were treated with a neutralizing solution containing ammonium lauryl sulfate, and the other two were treated with a neutralizing solution containing lauryl sulfate. Treated with a neutralizing solution that does not contain ammonium sulfate. It was found that only hair tresses waved with a waving lotion containing a polymer and a neutralizing solution containing an anionic surfactant were soft, shiny and conditioned. This effect was found to be durable, withstanding at least four washes. Example 2 Waving Lotion A hair waving lotion having the following composition was prepared to reduce disulfide bonds in hair keratin.

【table】

[Table] Each sample of the above four types of waving lotion
5.25g NICE 'N EASY Hair Color
Added to 3.5 g of natural brown hair tresses pre-dyed with Shade No. 122. Each of these hair tresses was then wrapped around a plastic-wrapped waving rod approximately 1 cm in diameter and left at 38°C for 1 hour. Each hair tress was then washed with tap water for 1 minute and removed from the wand. The hair tresses treated as described above were then treated with a neutralizing lotion. Neutralizing lotion ingredient concentration (wt%) Sodium bromate 10.0 Sodium carbonate 1.0 Sodium alpha 5.0 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 2.50 Fragrance 0.50 Add water (deionized water) Total amount 100 Combing property Neutralizing lotion removes hair After reformation of the disulfide bonds in the keratin, each hair tress was washed and graded for cardability as judged by a panel of hair quality testing experts. Combability 1 represents the most difficult hair strand to comb and is equivalent to no conditioning effect. Combability 5 represents the easiest hair tress to comb, ie corresponds to the quality of highly conditioned hair. In the middle, the lower the number, the worse the combability, and the higher the number, the better the combability. Waving Lotion Worsted Clairquat-1 4-5 Mercquart 550 1 Crotein 1 Cartaletin F4 1 No cationic polymer 1 The above The data show that CREAQUAT-1 provides significantly superior conditioning effects compared to other cationic polymers. Although the invention has been described with respect to specific embodiments, it is understood that many changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit of the invention.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 (a) A reducing agent and a repeating unit of the following formula (b) After treating the hair with an aqueous waving composition containing an effective amount of a cationic polymer called Clairquat-1, where n is a number proportional to molecular weight, the hair is treated with an oxidizing agent. 1. A method for waving or straightening hair which maintains its conditioned state even after repeated hair washing, comprising the step of treating the hair with an aqueous neutralizing composition comprising: and an anionic surfactant. 2 The waving composition contains 0.5 to 20% by weight of the reducing agent and 0.2 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the waving composition.
% by weight of the above-mentioned cationic polymer, and the above-mentioned neutralizing composition contains 0.2 to
A method according to claim 1, comprising 20% by weight of oxidizing agent and 0.2 to 50% by weight of said surfactant. 3 (a) the reducing agent is thioglycolic acid or an alkali metal salt of sulfite; (b) the ionic polymer has a molecular weight of 5,000 to 500,000;
(c) the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide or sodium or potassium bromate; and (d) the surfactant is sodium lauryl sulfate or ammonium sulfate. Or the method described in Section 2. 4. Hair waving, characterized in that it contains (a) 0.5 to 20% by weight of a reducing agent and (b) 0.2 to 10% by weight of a cationic polymer called Clairquat-1, based on the weight of the waving composition. An aqueous hair waving composition convenient for stretching waves. 5 Container 1 containing a waving lotion consisting of a reducing agent and an aqueous solution of a cationic polymer called Clairequat-1 and a neutralizing lotion consisting of an aqueous solution of a neutralizing agent and an anionic surfactant. A two-part package for waving or straightening hair, characterized in that it is a two-container package containing one container and one container.