JP7547743B2 - Multi-layered fabric - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a multi-layered fabric.

Conventionally, multi-layered fabrics having multiple layers of unit weave structures are known. Here, unit weave structure means a single layer of weave structure formed with one set of warp and weft threads.

In high-quality worsted coats, reversible sewing is often used to improve the appearance of the edges of multi-layered fabrics and the appearance of the seams between fabrics. However, reversible sewing requires the use of a special machine to separate the front and back structures of the multi-layered fabric. In addition, this work can only be done by experienced workers, which poses a problem in productivity.
In response to this, for example, Patent Document 1 discloses a dividing machine that allows even non-skilled workers to easily separate the front and back structures. However, the cost of updating sewing machines is a heavy burden for sewing factories, which are mainly small and medium-sized enterprises. Therefore, the majority of work in sewing factories is still done by skilled workers using conventional machines.

Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 6-319883

The present invention was made in consideration of the above circumstances, and aims to provide a multi-layered fabric in which the front and back weaves can be easily separated.

The present invention which achieves the above object is configured as follows.
[1] A multi-layered fabric in which a front structure and a back structure are alternately bonded together by a bonding yarn, and the distance between the front structure and the back structure is 8 or more and 30 or less in both the warp and weft directions.
[2] The multilayer fabric according to [1], having a bonding index represented by the following formula (1) of 1,500 or more and 4,000 or less.
Binding index = [√fineness (dtex)] × finished warp density (pieces/inch) × finished weft density (pieces/inch) / binding frequency (1)
[3] The multi-layer fabric according to [1] or [2], wherein the fineness of the binding yarn is 84 dtex or less.
[4] The multilayer fabric according to any one of [1] to [3], wherein the binding yarn is a twisted yarn and has a twist coefficient of 3,500 or more and 7,500 or less.
[5] A multi-layer fabric according to any one of [1] to [4], wherein the ends are reversibly sewn.

The present invention provides a multi-woven fabric that allows the front and back structures to be easily separated.

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram showing the weave and weave positions of the bonded plain double woven fabric in Example 1. FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing the weave and weave positions of a bonded plain double woven fabric in Example 2. FIG. 11 is a schematic diagram showing the weave and weaving positions of a weaved twill double-layer fabric in Example 3. FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram showing the weave and weft position of the weft-knit twill double-woven fabric in Comparative Example 1. FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing the weave and weave positions of a co-woven plain double woven fabric in Comparative Example 2.

An embodiment of the multi-layer fabric of the present invention will be described.
It should be noted that the present embodiment is specifically described to allow a better understanding of the gist of the invention, and does not limit the present invention unless otherwise specified.

[Multi-layered fabric]
The multilayer fabric of this embodiment is a multilayer fabric in which the front and back structures are alternately bonded together by binding yarns, and the interval at which the front and back structures are alternately bonded together is 8 to 30 yarns in both the warp and weft directions.
Hereinafter, the "interval at which the front and back tissues are alternately bonded" will be referred to as the "bonding interval."
In multi-layered fabrics, it is common to bond warp and weft threads to connect the weaves of each layer (unit weave).Specifically, there are several known methods: (1) a method in which the warp and weft threads of the front and back structures of a multi-layered fabric are bonded by alternating front and back at any point, (2) a method in which the warp threads of the front structure are bonded to the weft threads of the back structure at various points (or the weft threads of the front structure are bonded to the warp threads of the back structure at various points), and (3) a method in which one weft thread is made to go back and forth twice to form a loop.

When the bonding interval is 8 or more, excessive force is not applied to the weave surface, and the front and back tissues can be easily separated. When the bonding interval is 30 or less, the product parts do not easily separate, and the appearance of the product is not affected.
From these viewpoints, the bonding interval is preferably 10 or more and 16 or less in both the warp and weft directions.

Here, the stitching interval is the number of wefts between a stitching position and the next stitching position in the warp direction, and the stitching interval is the number of warp threads between stitching positions in the same weft in the weft direction.
For example, in the multi-layer fabric shown in FIG. 1, the number of weft threads is 8 (the number of warp threads between M and M shown in FIG. 1), the number of warp threads is 12, and the number of warp threads is 10 (the number of weft threads between △ and × shown in FIG. 1).

The multi-layer fabric of the present embodiment preferably has a bonding index of 1,500 or more and 4,000 or less, as described below.
The bonding index is a value calculated by the following formula (1).
Binding index = [√fineness (dtex)] × finished warp density (pieces/inch) × finished weft density (pieces/inch) / binding frequency (1)

In the multi-layer fabric of the present embodiment, the fineness is expressed in decitex (dtex), which is the mass of 10,000 meters of yarn in grams. In the case of a multifilament fabric, the fineness in the multi-layer fabric of the present embodiment means the sum of the finenesses of all filaments (total fineness).
In the above formula (1), the fineness is the average fineness of the warp and weft yarns that form the base of the multi-layer fabric.
In the above formula (1), the knot frequency is a value obtained by dividing the number of complete designs excluding knot yarns by the number of knot points (knot number).
In the above formula (1), one complete design is the minimum basic weaving unit, which is the weaving unit until the binding yarn returns to the same position. Figures 1 to 5 show one complete design.

If the bonding index is 1500 or more, the front and back structures can be easily separated. If the bonding index is 4000 or less, the front and back structures do not easily separate when the fabric is handled during sewing or when worn, and the appearance of the multi-layered fabric is not affected. From these perspectives, it is more preferable that the bonding index is 2500 or more and 3500 or less.

In the multi-layer fabric of the present embodiment, the fineness of the binding yarn is preferably 84 dtex or less.
When the fineness of the binding yarn is 84 dtex or less, the front and back structures can be easily separated.
From this viewpoint, the fineness of the binding yarn is more preferably equal to or less than 40 dtex.

In the multilayer fabric of the present embodiment, the binding yarn is preferably a twisted yarn having a twist coefficient of 3,500 or more and 7,500 or less.
By using twisted yarn as the binding yarn, the strength of the binding yarn can be increased. Also, the binding yarn is easily removed from the multi-layered fabric, and the binding yarn is less likely to break when the front and back structures are separated.

When the twist coefficient of the binding yarn is 3500 or more, the pull-out resistance of the binding yarn (the force required when pulling the binding yarn out of the multi-layered fabric) is small, and the front and back structures can be easily separated. When the twist coefficient of the binding yarn is 7500 or less, the binding yarn does not become snarled (loop-shaped shrinkage caused by shrinkage of the yarn twist), and the front and back structures can be easily separated.
From these viewpoints, the twist coefficient of the binding yarn is more preferably 4,000 or more and 6,500 or less.
The twist factor is calculated by the following formula (2).
Twist factor = [√fineness (dtex)] × number of twists (2)

In the multi-layer fabric of this embodiment, it is preferable that the ends are reversibly sewn.
By reversibly sewing the end portion, the multi-layered fabric has a good appearance when made into a product, and can be adapted to the quality of high-grade products.

There are no particular limitations on the material of the binding yarn, but for example, polyester fiber is preferred from the viewpoint of strength. In addition, the material of the binding yarn is preferably a fuzz-free long fiber from the viewpoint of easily separating the front and back structures.

The multi-layered fabric of this embodiment can provide a multi-layered fabric in which the front and back weaves can be easily separated. In addition, the multi-layered fabric of this embodiment can provide a multi-layered fabric with a good appearance at the end of the reversible stitching seen in high-quality worsted products.

The present invention will be explained in more detail below with reference to examples and comparative examples, but the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

[Example 1]
(Preparation of multi-layered fabric)
A textured yarn was produced by twisting a Bright 84 dtex 20f (dtex is an abbreviation for decitex. Hereinafter, "decitex" will be abbreviated as "dtex". f is an abbreviation for filament. Hereinafter, "filament" will be abbreviated as "f") triacetate multifilament with a chrysanthemum cross section (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation) and a semi-dull 33 dtex 24f polyester multifilament with a round cross section (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation) with a false twist process in the S or Z direction at a twist rate of 1,400 turns/m. Hereinafter, the twisted yarn twisted in the S direction will be referred to as the twisted yarn S, and the twisted yarn twisted in the Z direction will be referred to as the twisted yarn Z.
As the binding yarn, an S-twisted yarn was prepared by twisting a semi-dull 33 dtex 24f round cross section polyester multifilament (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation) in the S direction with a twist number of 800 turns/m.

A flat double woven fabric was produced using alternately plied yarns S and Z for the front yarn, alternately plied yarns S and Z for the back yarn, and S-twisted yarn for the binding yarn, in the arrangement and binding positions shown in Figure 1, with a warp density of 148 threads/inch and a weft density of 107 threads/inch. In the obtained flat double woven fabric, the binding interval in the warp direction was 8 threads, and the binding interval in the weft direction was 10 and 12 threads.
1 to 5, F represents the face yarn, B represents the back yarn, and M represents the binding yarn. Also, in Fig. 1 to 5, △ represents that the binding yarn is bound to the face structure, and × represents that the binding yarn is bound to the back structure.
This grey fabric was dyed black in a conventional manner to obtain a fabric having a warp density of 228 threads/inch and a weft density of 144 threads/inch.
The resulting woven fabric had a fluffy, worsted feel.

(Evaluation of Ease of Separation)
The ends of the front and back structures constituting the woven fabric were peeled off by hand in opposite directions, and the ease of separation was evaluated according to the following criteria. The results are shown in Table 1.
○: Easily separated.
△: It takes a long time to separate.
×: Difficult to separate.

(Evaluation of surface before and after separation)
The texture of the fabric before and after separation into the front and back structures was evaluated according to the following criteria. The results are shown in Table 1.
○: The bonded parts are not visible and are clean.
△: The bonded part is visible.
×: Shrinkage is noticeable.

The results in Table 1 show that the fabric of Example 1 can be easily separated into the front and back weaves, and the weave surface after separation is also good.

[Example 2]
A woven fabric with a warp density of 252 threads/inch and a weft density of 163 threads/inch was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the warp density was changed to 174 threads/inch, the weft density was changed to 124 threads/inch, the knotting interval in the warp direction was changed to 12 threads, the knotting interval in the weft direction was changed to 12 threads, and the arrangement and knotting positions were changed to those shown in Figure 2.
The resulting woven fabric had a fluffy, worsted feel.
Furthermore, the ease of separation of the front and back structures constituting the woven fabric was evaluated, and the texture of the fabric before and after separation into the front and back structures was evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 1.
As can be seen from the results in Table 1, the fabric of Example 2 could be easily separated into the front and back structures, and the texture after separation was also good.

[Example 3]
A fabric with a warp density of 290 threads/inch and a weft density of 195 threads/inch was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the base weave was changed to a twill double weave, the warp density was changed to 222 threads/inch and the weft density to 151 threads/inch, the knot spacing in the warp direction was changed to 18 threads, the knot spacing in the weft direction to 12 threads, and the arrangement and knotting positions were changed to those shown in Figure 3.
The resulting woven fabric had a fluffy, worsted feel.
Furthermore, the ease of separation of the front and back structures constituting the woven fabric was evaluated, and the texture of the fabric before and after separation into the front and back structures was evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 1.
As can be seen from the results in Table 1, the fabric of Example 3 could be easily separated into the front and back structures, and the texture after separation was also good.

[Comparative Example 1]
A textured yarn was produced by false twisting a bright 84 dtex 20f triacetate multifilament having a chrysanthemum cross section (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation) and a semi-dull 33 dtex 24f polyester multifilament having a round cross section (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation), and twisting them in the S or Z direction at a twist rate of 1600 times/m.
As the binding yarn, a semi-dull 56 dtex 12f latent crimp type polyester composite fiber (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation) was twisted in the S direction at a twist rate of 1600 turns/m to prepare an S-twisted yarn.

The face yarn was made of alternately twisted yarn S and twisted yarn Z, the back yarn was made of alternately twisted yarn S and twisted yarn Z, and the binding yarn was made of S twisted yarn, with the arrangement and binding position shown in Figure 4, to produce a twill double woven fabric with a warp density of 221 threads/inch and a weft density of 141 threads/inch.
This grey fabric was dyed black in a conventional manner to obtain a fabric having a warp density of 310 threads/inch and a weft density of 188 threads/inch.
The resulting woven fabric had a fluffy, worsted feel.
Furthermore, the ease of separation of the front and back structures constituting the woven fabric was evaluated, and the texture of the fabric before and after separation into the front and back structures was evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 1.
As can be seen from the results in Table 1, in the fabric of Comparative Example 1, the front and back weaves were difficult to separate easily, and the co-woven portions were clearly visible.

[Comparative Example 2]
A textured yarn was produced by false twisting a bright 84 dtex 20f triacetate multifilament having a chrysanthemum cross section (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation) and a semi-dull 33 dtex 24f polyester multifilament having a round cross section (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation), and twisting them in the S or Z direction at a twist rate of 1600 times/m.
As the binding yarn, the same ply-twisted yarn as in Comparative Example 1 was used.

The face yarn was made of alternately twisted yarn S and twisted yarn Z, the back yarn was made of alternately twisted yarn S and twisted yarn Z, and the binding yarn was made of S twisted yarn, with the arrangement and binding position shown in Figure 5, and a flat double woven fabric was produced with a warp density of 161 threads/inch and a weft density of 138 threads/inch.
This grey fabric was dyed black in a conventional manner to obtain a fabric having a warp density of 240 threads/inch and a weft density of 180 threads/inch.
The resulting woven fabric had a fluffy, worsted feel.
Furthermore, the ease of separation of the front and back structures constituting the woven fabric was evaluated, and the texture of the fabric before and after separation into the front and back structures was evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 1.
As can be seen from the results in Table 1, in the fabric of Comparative Example 2, the front and back weaves were difficult to separate easily, and even after separation, the weave surface had noticeable shrinkage.

The multi-layered fabric of the present invention can provide a multi-layered fabric in which the front and back structures can be easily separated. Therefore, even non-expert workers can easily separate the front and back structures, which is expected to improve work efficiency in sewing factories.

F Front thread B Back thread M Bonding thread △ Bonded to front structure × Bonded to back structure

Claims (4)

A multi-layered fabric in which a front structure and a back structure are alternately bonded by a bonding yarn, the interval at which the front structure and the back structure are alternately bonded is 8 or more and 30 or less in both the warp direction and the weft direction, and the bonding index represented by the following formula (1) is 1500 or more and 4000 or less .
Binding index = [√fineness (dtex)] × finished warp density (pieces/inch) × finished weft density (pieces/inch) / binding frequency (1) This multi-layered fabric has a front structure and a back structure alternately bonded with a bonding yarn, the interval at which the front structure and the back structure are alternately bonded is 8 or more and 30 or less in both the warp and weft directions, and the fineness of the bonding yarn is 84 dtex or less . This multi-layered fabric has a front structure and a back structure alternately bonded together by a bonding yarn, the spacing between the front structure and the back structure alternately being 8 or more and 30 or less in both the warp and weft directions, and the bonding yarn is a twisted yarn having a twist coefficient of 3,500 or more and 7,500 or less . The multi-layer fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3 , wherein the end portions are reversibly sewn.