JP3469115B2 - Stretch warp knitted fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a stretchable warp knitted fabric and a method for producing the stretchable warp knitted fabric, which is used for various kinds of clothing such as innerwear and sportswear, and has a stretchability that is well balanced in both the weft and weft directions. Regarding the ground.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as a knitted fabric for innerwear such as pants, girdles and body suits, a stretchable warp knitted fabric in which a non-elastic yarn made of synthetic fiber such as Nanron and a polyurethane elastic yarn are combined is known. . Excellent elasticity can be imparted by using the polyurethane elastic yarn.

The inventors of the present invention have previously described, in fact, Jitsuko Sho 59-2.
The stretchable warp knitted fabric disclosed in Japanese Patent No. 148 has been developed, and further, Japanese Patent Nos. 2560174 and 27184 have been developed.
The technique disclosed in Japanese Patent No. 41 is proposed. In these prior arts, a special knitting structure is adopted in order to effectively utilize the function of the elastic yarn. Specifically, for example, a first elastic yarn is repeatedly inserted in a zigzag pattern for each course in the same wale into a warp knitted fabric structure knitted with non-elastic yarns, and then a second elastic yarn for several courses. Change the swing width each time and insert. By combining such two kinds of elastic yarns, it has become possible to appropriately exhibit a balance between extensibility in both the weft and weft directions and elongation recovery.

[0004]

However, even with the stretchable warp knitted fabric of the above-mentioned prior art, there is some difference in stretchability in both the warp and weft directions. Depending on the intended use of the stretchable warp knitted fabric, a stretchable warp knitted fabric may be required to have a difference in stretchability in both directions of warp and weft as small as possible. Specifically, in orthodontic innerwear and sportswear, it is required that the elasticity be sufficiently large and well-balanced in both directions.

Further, in the case of a knitted fabric having a great difference in stretchability in the longitudinal direction, when the fabric is cut, the fabric must be cut in accordance with the direction in which the force is applied when it is used as clothing. However, there is a problem that it is difficult to use because the fabric cannot be set freely and the usage of the fabric is greatly restricted. In the stretchable warp knitted fabric of the above-mentioned prior art, the stretchability in the warp and weft direction is adjusted to some extent by changing the thickness of the two types of elastic yarns, changing the yarn feed amount, and changing the insertion swing width. However, there is still a considerable amount of difference in the elongation and power in the longitudinal direction. Further, if the elastic yarn is thickened in order to balance the warp and weft directions, there arises a problem that the appearance and texture of the warp knitted fabric, and the characteristics such as touch are deteriorated.

The problem to be solved by the present invention is to further improve the stretchable warp knitted fabric of the above-mentioned prior art so as to exhibit a large and balanced stretchability in both the warp and weft directions. It is to provide the ground.

[0007]

The stretchable warp knitted fabric of the present invention comprises a non-elastic yarn and at least three types of elastic yarns, and the knitting structure of the non-elastic yarn forms loops at all stitches. However, the first elastic yarn is 1 to 3 over the entire wale.
A plurality of swing widths are mixed and inserted into each of the courses for one course, or a loop is formed. The third elastic yarns are inserted with mixed swing widths, and the third elastic yarns are threaded over all the wales or a part of the wales, and the first to third courses
A plurality of swing widths are mixed between the needles, and the needles are inserted with a knitting structure different from that of the first elastic yarn. [Inelastic yarn] An inelastic yarn for knitting a normal knitted fabric is used. Long fibers such as nylon and polyester, or
Any of short fibers such as cotton and acrylic can be used. The material may be selected according to the use of the warp knitted fabric and the required quality.

As the non-elastic yarn, a yarn having a relatively small elongation is used, and specifically, a yarn having 60% or less is used. The thickness of the non-elastic yarn is set according to the material of the yarn and the required performance. For example, in the case of long fibers, 20-80 denier, preferably 30-50 denier can be used. In the case of fibers, those having a denier of 35 to 54 can be used. [First to third elastic yarns] Various elastic yarns used for ordinary warp knitted fabrics can be used. For example, highly elastic polyurethane yarn, so-called spandex, can be used.

The elongation of the elastic yarn is preferably 400% or more. The thickness of the elastic yarn can be appropriately selected depending on the use of the warp knitted fabric and the required performance. Specifically, the thickness of the first elastic yarn and the third elastic yarn can be 20 to 105 denier, and the thickness of the second elastic yarn can be 40 to 560 denier. First
It is preferable that relatively thin threads are used as the elastic threads and the third elastic threads, and relatively thick threads are used as the second elastic threads. As the first elastic yarn and the third elastic yarn, yarns of the same material and thickness may be used, or yarns of different thickness or material or both may be used. Even if the first elastic yarn and the third elastic yarn are made of the same material and have the same thickness, they are clearly different in terms of knitting structure. [Knitting structure] The non-elastic yarn forms a loop structure in all stitches to form a so-called ground structure.

The first elastic yarn is 1 to 1 over the entire wale.
A plurality of swing widths are mixed and inserted between one to three stitches every three courses or a loop is formed. The second elastic yarn is inserted with a plurality of swing widths mixed between one and two needles for each course over the entire wale. The third elastic yarn is inserted over the entire wale or a part of the wale, and a plurality of swing widths are mixed and inserted between 1 to 3 needles for each course.

Here, "over all wales" means knitting by so-called full set threading in which threads are present in all wales. The thread removal with a part of the wale means that the thread removal is performed with a part of all the wale such as 1 in 1 out or 1 in 2 out. Mixing swing widths means that there are courses with different swing widths during one repeat. For example, mixing a plurality of swing widths among 1 to 3 stitches means that at least a course having a swing width of 1 stitch and a course having a swing width of 3 stitches exist. In this case, the course having the swing width of two stitches may or may not exist.

Since the swing width of the second elastic yarn is generally narrower than that of the first and third elastic yarns, it greatly contributes to the elasticity in the warp direction. The first and third elastic yarns having a wide swing width enhance the stretchability in the weft direction. When arranging each thread on the reed of the warp knitting machine, an inelastic thread is placed on the front reed, a first elastic thread is placed on the first middle reed near the front reed, and a second middle reed is placed next. Two
It is preferable to dispose the elastic thread and the third elastic thread on the back reed. As a result, the second elastic yarn moves in front of and behind the first elastic yarn.
It becomes a state of being sandwiched by elastic yarns, the balance of elasticity in both directions of warp and weft becomes good, and by fusing the yarns after knitting, it is possible to exert a strong resistance against warping.

The knitting structure of the first elastic yarn and the third elastic yarn may partially have the same portion, but the repeats are not all the same and must always have different portions. deep. In this way, by providing a difference in knitting structure between the first elastic yarn and the third elastic yarn, it becomes possible to impart high stretchability in the weft direction due to entanglement of the both. It is also effective in preventing the warp knitted fabric from fraying.

Forming a loop in the first elastic yarn has the advantage that the fraying phenomenon from the end of knitting is less likely to occur. In addition to the above-mentioned non-elastic yarn and the first to third elastic yarns, other non-elastic yarns or elastic yarns can be combined within the range not impairing the object of the present invention. [Characteristics of Stretchable Warp Knitted Fabric] Generally, the performance of a stretchable warp knitted fabric is evaluated by elongation (also referred to as elongation or elongation) and power. A warp knitted fabric with excellent stretchability can be obtained because of its high elongation and high power.

The amount of elongation varies depending on the load applied, but the elongation at a load of 2.25 kg is
It is preferably from 150 to 350%, and from 200 to 30
0% is more desirable. Power at 80% extension is 200
It is preferably about 2000 g. The value of power can be adjusted by selecting the thickness of the yarns forming the knitted fabric.

The ratio of the elongations in the warp direction and the weft direction under a load of 2.25 kg is such that the warp direction / weft direction = 1 to 2 (more preferably 1
To 1.5) are preferred. The ratio of the power at the time of 80% elongation in the warp direction and the weft direction is 1) to 2
(More preferably 1 to 1.5) is preferable.
In the elongation diagram obtained when the stretchability evaluation test is performed, it is preferable that there is little deviation between the load curve and the unloading curve. In the conventional technique, since the deviation between the load curve and the unloading curve becomes large in the weft direction, it is preferable that the unloading / load ratio in the weft direction is close to 100%. In particular,
It is preferable that the unloading / loading power ratio is 60% or more in the weft direction. [Other Configurations] With respect to the specific configuration of the stretchable warp knitted fabric other than the above, various configurations adopted in a usual stretchable warp knitted fabric can be applied in combination.

The above-mentioned prior art document (Act. Kokoku Sho 59-21)
48, Japanese Patent No. 2560174, Japanese Patent No. 27
The technical matters disclosed in Japanese Patent No. 18441) can be combined with the present invention. The pre-processing such as warping of each yarn used for the elastic warp knitted fabric, the dyeing process of the knitted elastic warp knitted fabric, and the post-processing such as heat setting process are the same as those of the ordinary elastic warp knitted fabric. Technology can be applied.

Since the first to third elastic yarns are fused to each other by the set process, a strong resistance against cracks is produced, and wrinkles are less likely to occur. [Use of Stretchable Warp Knitted Fabric] The stretchable warp knitted fabric of the present invention can be used for various uses in which conventional stretchable warp knitted fabrics have been used.
For example, it can be used as a material for innerwear such as pants, girdles, body suits, and bras. It can also be used in sportswear.

[0019]

[Example 1]

Thread usage: Front = non-elastic nylon 66, 40d-34f Bright (Toray) Middle 1 = 1st elastic yarn operon, 40d-127c (Toray DuPont) Middle 2 = 2nd elastic yarn operon, 280d-127c (Toray DuPont) Back = 3rd elastic yarn operon, 40d-127c (Toray DuPont) Reed arrangement: front, middle 1, middle 2, back full set organization: Schematic in FIG. The organization chart shown in Fig.

Front = 24/24/24/20/20/20 / Middle 1 = 810/44/66/20/66/44 / Middle 2 = 66/22/44/00/44/22 / Back = 66 / 44/66/00/22/00 / Dyeing after knitting: Dough relaxing + scouring → Preset (190 ° C) → Dyeing → Finishing set (185 ° C) Finishing amount: Course 176c / in, wale 64. 0w /
in Physical Properties of Stretchable Warp Knitted Fabric: As a physical property test, a stretchability evaluation test was performed by repeating loading and unloading in both the warp and weft directions of the warp knitted fabric. The power, elongation recovery rate, and elongation were calculated from the test results. The test conditions were carried out by a conventional method except for the following. Width of sample 2.5cm, distance between grips 10cm, pulling speed 3
It was 0 mm / min. As the power value, the value at each time point of the extension rate of 15 to 80% in the third cycle was measured. When the elongation rate is 15 to 50%, the values of the loading process / unloading process are shown. Growth recovery rate is 1 / 3rd cycle
The value of the cycle number is shown. The elongation is the value at the first cycle.

FIG. 2 shows a power diagram in the third cycle of the stretchability evaluation test, and FIG. 3 shows an elongation diagram. Other test items were performed according to the usual method. In addition, the stretch fatigue resistance is as follows when dry (D) and wet (W):
A twist test (twist) in a wet state was performed. The test results are shown in Table 1.

[0022]

[Table 1] ────────────────────────────────── Longitudinal direction Latitudinal direction Longitudinal ratio ─────── ──────────────────────────── Power g (load / unload): Growth rate 15% 99/83 72/43 30% 208 / 181 203/131 50% 352/301 408/286 80% 636 / -829 /-1.30 (latitude / warp) Elongation recovery rate% (1st / 3rd) 95.8 / 95.2 94.1 / 92.8 Elongation%: load 1.0 kg 118 84 1.5 kg 162 132 2.25 kg 207 199 1.04 (War / latitude) Washing shrinkage% 0 1.6 ────────────────────────────── ───── Stretch fatigue resistance D: Good, W: Good, Twisted: Good Bursting strength kgf / cm ² 2.4 Tear strength g 1264 Curling good (10 °) Fraying good ─────────── ─────────────────────── [Example 2] Thread usage: Front = inelastic thread Yron 6, 40d-10f Semidal (Toray Industries, Ltd.) Middle 1 = first elastic yarn operon, 40d-127c (Toray DuPont) Middle 2 = second elastic yarn operon, 210d-127c (Toray DuPont) Back = Third elastic yarn operon, 40d-127c (manufactured by Toray Dupont Co., Ltd.) Arrangement on reed: All of front, middle 1, middle 2 and back knitting organization: A schematic organization chart is shown in FIG.

Front = 24/24/24/20/20/20 / Middle 1 = 88/66/88/00/22/00 / Middle 2 = 66/22/44/00/44/22 / Back = 66 / 44/66/00/22/00 / Dyeing process after knitting: Same finishing amount as in Example 1: Course 166c / in, wale 59.8w /
in Physical properties of stretchable warp knitted fabric: Fig. 5 shows a power diagram in the third cycle of the stretchability evaluation test, Fig. 6 shows an elongation diagram, and Table 2 shows each test result.

[0024]

[Table 2] ────────────────────────────────── Longitudinal direction Latitudinal direction Longitudinal ratio ─────── ──────────────────────────── Power g (load / unload): Growth rate 15% 111/96 65/42 30% 223 / 196 198/124 50% 353/319 391/264 80% 579 / -759 /-1.31 (Latitude / War) Elongation recovery rate% (1st / 3rd) 96.7 / 96.3 93.9 / 92.8 Elongation%: Load 1.0 kg 135 97 1.5 kg 186 146 2.25 kg 234 215 1.09 (War / latitude) Washing shrinkage% 0 0 ───────────────────────────── ───── Stretch fatigue resistance D: Good, W: Good, Twisted: Good Bursting strength kgf / cm ² 2.3 Tear strength g 1212 Curling good (5 °) Fraying good ─────────── ─────────────────────── [Comparative Example 1] Thread usage: Front = inelastic thread Iron 6, 40d-13f Bright variant (manufactured by Toray) Back = Elastic yarn operon, 210d-127c (manufactured by Toray Dupont) Arrangement for reed: Both front and back Knitting organization: Schematic knitting in Fig. 7 An organizational chart is shown.

Front = 24/24/24/20/20/20 / Back = 44/22/66/22/44/00 / Dyeing after knitting: Same finishing amount as in Example 1: Course 207c / in , Wale 48w / in Physical properties of stretchable warp knitted fabric: Fig. 8 shows a power diagram in the third cycle of the stretchability evaluation test, Fig. 9 shows an elongation diagram, and Table 3 shows each test result. .

[0026]

[Table 3] ────────────────────────────────── Longitudinal direction Latitudinal direction Latitudinal ratio ─────── ──────────────────────────── Power g (load / unload): Growth rate 15% 76/68 51/18 30% 143 / 129 263/119 50% 225/201 555/313 80% 379 /-1140 /-3.00 (Latitude / War) Elongation recovery rate (1st / 3rd) 97.6 / 96.7 90.2 / 88.0 Elongation%: Load 1.0 kg 193 62 1.5 kg 250 95 2.25 kg 304 137 2.22 (War / latitude) Washing shrinkage% 2.0 2.0 ────────────────────────────── ───── Stretch fatigue resistance D: Thread breakage, W: Good, Twisted: Good Bursting strength kgf / cm ² 2.6 Tear strength g 1109 Good curl (0 °) Good fray ───────── ───────────────────────── [Comparative example 2] Prior art (Actual publication No. 59- (2148 publication)
Corresponds to the technology disclosed in.

Thread usage: Front = non-elastic yarn Nylon 66, 40d-20f Bright variant (Toray) Middle = Elastic yarn (1) Operon, 210d-127c (Toray DuPont) Back = Elastic yarn (2) Operon , 40d-127c (manufactured by Toray DuPont) Arrangement for reed: full set knitting structure for all of front, middle and back: FIG. 10 shows a schematic knitting structure chart.

Front = 42/24/20/24/24/46 / Middle = 22/00/22/00/22/00 / Back = 22/00/66/44/66/00 / Dyeing after knitting : Finishing amount same as in Example 1: Course 204c / in, wale 55.3w /
in Physical Properties of Stretchable Warp Knit Fabric: FIG. 11 shows a power diagram in the third cycle of the stretchability evaluation test, FIG. 12 shows an elongation diagram, and Table 4 shows each test result.

[0029]

[Table 4] ────────────────────────────────── Longitudinal direction Latitudinal direction Longitudinal ratio ─────── ──────────────────────────── Power g (load / unload): Growth rate 15% 97/84 49/22 30% 188 / 170 157/69 50% 293/266 340/170 80% 473 / -747 / -1.58 (latitude / warp) Elongation recovery rate% (1st / 3rd) 96.7 / 96.2 93.5 / 92.1 Elongation%: Load 1.0 kg 169 91 1.5 kg 231 122 2.25 kg 282 164 1.72 (War / latitude) Washing shrinkage% 0.5 1.6 ───────────────────────────── ───── Stretch fatigue resistance D: Good, W: Good, Twisted: Good Bursting strength kgf / cm ² 2.6 Tear strength g 1557 Good curl (35 °) Fraying A little tendency ────────── ───────────────────────── [Discussion of Measurement Results] Examples 1 and 2 Stretchable warp knitted fabric, in history both directions, both power and elongation is large, high elongation recovery ratio. Moreover, the ratio of the power and the history of elongation is within 1.5 times. In the elongation diagram, there is no large deviation between the load curve (upper arc) and the unloading curve (lower arc), and the whole has a flat arcuate shape.
Specifically, the load / unload ratio for power is 60% or more in all regions.

Since the elongation (elongation) and the tense force (power) in both the warp and weft directions show similar characteristic tendencies, the garment produced from such a stretchable warp knitted fabric has a shape and a body shape when worn. It naturally fits the movement and gives little discomfort. A comfortable feeling of wearing can be obtained without giving local pressure to the body. Even if worn for a long time, so-called misalignment does not occur easily.

If there is no difference in the characteristics in the weft and latitudinal directions, the fabric can be freely used in both the weft and latitudinal directions.

[0032]

The stretchable warp knitted fabric of the present invention comprises a non-elastic yarn and
Based on a specific knitting structure with excellent elasticity that combines with different types of elastic yarns, and by further combining it with a third elastic yarn having a specific knitting structure, it has excellent elongation and power. Rather, it is a stretchable warp knitted fabric whose properties are well balanced in both warp and weft directions.

As a result, it is possible to provide a material having excellent functionality or usability in the field of clothing, such as innerwear and sportswear, which is required to have high stretchability that is well balanced in the longitudinal direction.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a knitting organization chart showing an embodiment of the present invention.

[Fig. 2] Power diagram of elastic warp knitted fabric

FIG. 3 Elongation diagram of elastic warp knitted fabric

FIG. 4 is a knitting organization chart of another embodiment.

FIG. 5: Power diagram of elastic warp knitted fabric

FIG. 6 Elongation diagram of elastic warp knitted fabric

[Fig. 7] Organization chart of the prior art

FIG. 8: Power diagram of stretchable warp knitted fabric

FIG. 9: Elongation diagram of stretchable warp knitted fabric

FIG. 10 is another prior art knitting organization chart.

FIG. 11: Power diagram of stretchable warp knitted fabric

FIG. 12: Elongation diagram of stretchable warp knitted fabric

[Explanation of symbols]

F front reed M middle reed M ₁ middle 1 reed M ₂ middle 2 reed B back reed

─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (56) Reference JP-A-8-27650 (JP, A) JP-A-11-1853 (JP, A) JP-A-4-257353 (JP, A) JP-A-3- 234876 (JP, A) JP-A-63-6141 (JP, A) Jitsukaihei 3-22087 (JP, U) JP-B 63-3059 (JP, B2) (58) Fields investigated (Int.Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D04B 21/00-21/20

Claims (4)

(57) [Claims] 1. A non-elastic yarn and at least three types of elastic yarns, the knitting structure of which is such that the non-elastic yarn forms loops at all stitches, and the first elastic yarn is 1 to over all wales. A plurality of swing widths are mixed and inserted into one or three stitches every three courses, or loops are formed, and the second elastic yarn is one course per one course over the entire wale.
A plurality of swing widths are mixed and inserted between the two needles, and the third elastic yarn is pulled out over the whole wale or a part of the wale, and a plurality of swings is made between one to three stitches per course. A stretchable warp knitted fabric having a mixed width and having a knitting structure different from that of the first elastic yarn. 2. The non-elastic yarn has a thickness of 20 to 80 denier, the first elastic yarn has a thickness of 20 to 105 denier, and the second elastic yarn has a thickness of 40 to 560 denier. The stretchable warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the thickness of the yarn is 20 to 105 denier. 3. The ratio of elongation in the warp direction and the weft direction under a load of 2.25 kg is warp direction / weft direction = 1 to 2, and the ratio of the power in the warp direction and the weft direction at 80% elongation. Is the weft direction / warp direction = 1 to 2, and the stretchable warp knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2. 4. A non-elastic yarn and at least three types of elastic yarns are used, the non-elastic yarn is passed through the front reed to form loops at all stitches, and the first elastic yarn is used for the first middle reed. Through the whole wale, insert a plurality of swing widths in a mixed manner with 1 to 3 needles for every 1 to 3 courses, or form a loop, and pass the second elastic thread through the second middle reed, A plurality of swing widths are mixed and inserted between 1 and 2 stitches per course over the wale, the third elastic thread is passed through the back reed, and the thread is removed over the entire wale or a part of the wale. A method for producing a stretchable warp knitted fabric, wherein a plurality of swing widths are mixed between 1 to 3 stitches for each course, and the knitted fabric is inserted and knitted with a knitting structure different from that of the first elastic yarn.