JP3003060U - A kimono collar - Google Patents
A kimono collarInfo
- Publication number
- JP3003060U JP3003060U JP1994003820U JP382094U JP3003060U JP 3003060 U JP3003060 U JP 3003060U JP 1994003820 U JP1994003820 U JP 1994003820U JP 382094 U JP382094 U JP 382094U JP 3003060 U JP3003060 U JP 3003060U
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- collar
- core
- width
- length
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Abstract
(57)【要約】
【目的】 一般呉服の襦袢の衿を美麗に整形し、又、和
装花嫁用衣裳の広衿襦袢を流麗な抜衿に整形し、又嵩低
く折りたたむ。
【構成】 抜衿及び衿芯をバイヤス織地で形成し一般呉
服の襦袢には1枚の衿芯11を、広衿襦袢には複数の衿
芯を、衿布14の幅を2分する半面側に第1衿芯15
を、第1衿芯の幅の2分の1にわたり、上辺を凹陥させ
た第2衿芯16を、弓張り月形であって曲辺を上向きと
した長さの異なる第3衿芯17第4衿芯18第5衿芯1
9を重ねて縫着し第1衿芯の他の半面側に弓張り月形で
あって曲辺を下向きとした長さの異なる第6衿芯20第
7衿芯21を縫着し、又、第2’衿芯23の両端からほ
ぼ4分の1の位置に上方で拡開する細い溝24を衿芯を
切り離して設けた。
(57) [Summary] [Purpose] Beautifully shaping the undergarment collar of general kimono, and shaping the wide neckline of a kimono bride's costume into a sleek and elegant collar, and folding it in a low volume. [Structure] The collar and collar are made of bias woven fabric, and one piece of the core 11 is used for the undergarment of general kimono, multiple collars are used for the wide collar and the width of the collar 14 is divided into two halves. On the first collar 15
A second collar 16 having a concave upper side over a half of the width of the first collar, and a third collar 17 having a bow-shaped moon shape and a curved side facing upward and having a different length. 4 collar core 18 5th collar core 1
Nine pieces are sewn together and sewn on the other half side of the first collar core with a bow-shaped moon shape and a sixth collar core 20 and a seventh collar core 21 having different lengths with the curved sides facing downward, and A narrow groove 24, which widens upward, is provided at a position approximately one-quarter from both ends of the second 'collar core 23 by separating the collar core.
Description
【0001】[0001]
本考案は和装用襦袢の衿に関するもので、留袖、中振袖、付下げ等の一般呉服 用の襦袢の衿、和装花嫁衣裳用広衿襦袢の衿とそれぞれの衿芯をバイヤス織地で 形成したことを特徴とする。 The present invention relates to a collar for a Japanese style kimono, which is made by forming a bristle collar, a wide bridal gown for a kimono, and a core of each of the collars made of vias fabric. Is characterized by.
【0002】[0002]
一般呉服用の襦袢の衿とその衿芯にバイヤス織地を用いたものはない。 There is no backpack collar for general kimono and no one using the bias weave for the core of the collar.
【0003】 和装花嫁衣裳用広衿襦袢として実公昭56−48721号に係る考案がある。There is a device relating to Jitsuko Sho 56-48721 as a wide collar jacket for a kimono bride costume.
【0004】 同考案は、衿布を着用時に二つ折することにより外側と内側に表れる外衿布と 内衿布のそれぞれの内面に、襦袢背縫を中心として左右対称となり、且つ、長さ の異なる5枚の芯地を外衿布内面に3枚、内衿布内面に2枚それぞれ重ねて貼着 し、外衿布側にも抜衿成形時の長さとほぼ等しく、且つ、上辺がなだらかに凹陥 した第一芯地と、衿肩あきよりも少し長めで、且つ、下辺が弧状の三日月形の第 三芯地と、衿肩あきとほぼ等しく、且つ、下辺が弧状の三日月形で、中央に切欠 きを設けた第三芯地を重ね合わせ、内衿布側には下辺が弧状で、且つ、前記第一 芯地よりも短く、前記第二芯地よりも長い第四芯地と、上辺が弧状で、且つ、前 記第二芯地よりも短く前記第三芯地よりも長い第五芯地をそれぞれ貼着したもの である。According to the invention, when the collar cloth is worn, it is folded symmetrically on the inner surface of each of the outer and inner collar cloths that appear on the outer side and the inner side, and is symmetrical with respect to the back and back stitches. Five different interlinings are attached on the inner surface of the outer collar cloth, three on the inner surface, and two on the inner surface of the inner collar, and the inner cloth has the same length. The first interlining that is recessed in, and the third interlocking crescent that is slightly longer than the neckline and has a lower edge that is arcuate, and the third interlocking that is approximately equal to the neckline and that has a lower crescent that is arcuate. A third interlining with a notch in the center is overlaid, and a fourth interlining with an arcuate lower side on the inner collar side and shorter than the first interlining and longer than the second interlining. A fifth interlining, which has an arcuate upper side and is shorter than the second interlining and longer than the third interlining, respectively. is there.
【0005】[0005]
同公報第4欄第16行目〜第18行目の記載において、「また各芯地には織目 を斜め方向としたバイヤス織目芯地を使用すれば本考案の目的とする作用効果を さらに高めることができる。」としているが、衿布自体をバイヤス織地とする記 載がなく、衿布は平織地であると考えられるためバイヤス織地の前記各芯地に、 平織地の衿布を縫着したとき、バイヤス織地が平織地に比べ伸長性が大きいので 、着用時に抜衿すると衿布が引き攣って皺を生じ見苦しくなる恐れがある。 In the description in the fourth column, line 16 to line 18, of the same publication, "In addition, if a bias textured interlining with a diagonal weave is used for each interlining, the intended effect of the present invention can be obtained. However, there is no description that the collar fabric itself is a bias weave fabric, and since the collar fabric is considered to be a plain weave fabric, a plain weave fabric fabric is applied to each of the core fabrics of the bias weave fabric. When sewn, since the bias woven fabric has greater extensibility than the plain woven fabric, if the collar is pulled out when worn, the collar cloth may twitch and wrinkle, making it unsightly.
【0006】 又、外衿布側の第一芯地の長さは衿布の全長よりやや短めの100cmであり (同公報第5図)内衿布側の最も長い第四芯地の長さが47cm(同公報第8図 )であるため、第一芯地の両端と、第四芯地の両端との間約27cmづつは第一 芯地だけが衿布内に挿入されていることになり、着用時に丁度両肩のあたりには 第一芯地が一重に存在するため四重に重なり合う抜衿部分に比べ芯地が脆弱で両 肩あたりのラインが崩れる恐れがある。Further, the length of the first interlining on the outer collar side is 100 cm, which is slightly shorter than the total length of the neckline (FIG. 5 of the same publication), and the length of the longest fourth interlining on the inner collar side. Is 47 cm (Fig. 8 of the same gazette), so that about 27 cm between both ends of the first interlining and both ends of the fourth interlining, only the first interlining is inserted in the collar cloth. Since there is a single first interlining on both shoulders when worn, the interlining is more fragile and the lines around both shoulders may collapse as compared to the four-fold overlapping collar.
【0007】 又、収納のため折畳むとき、衿布の全長よりやや短めであって衿形状とほぼ一 致する第一芯地が張るため衿が立上がった状態で折畳まれて嵩張り、多数の花嫁 用広衿襦袢を保管するのに広いスペ−スを要する。Also, when folded for storage, the first interlining, which is slightly shorter than the total length of the collar cloth and almost equal to the collar shape, is stretched so that the collar is folded and bulky, A large space is required to store a large number of brideskin skirts.
【0008】 又、従来の長襦袢のたたみ方は図18aに示すように、左右の肩山1を据え、 左右の脇縫い2、3を縫い目を摺らして折り返し、上前4が上になるよう重ね、 同図bに示すように、手前の脇縫い2を持って背縫い目5の線上に重ね、脇縫い 2が身頃中央にくるようにし、図19aに示すように、袖6は手前側折り目7よ り2cm内側に袖口6aがくるように、袖幅を縦二つ折りし、同図bに示すよう に、同様に向こう側の脇縫3を折り返して他方の脇縫2と中央で突き合わせ、袖 6も同様に向う側折り目8より2cm内側に袖口6aがくるように、袖幅を縦に 二つ折りし、同図cに示すように、丈を横二つ折して袖6の上へ重ねるのである が、このとき衿9は肩山1から突出して折り畳まれ、保管するとき突出した長さ だけ広いスペ−スを要することになる。In addition, as shown in FIG. 18a, the conventional folding method of the long-sleeve skirt is such that the left and right shoulders 1 are set, the left and right side stitches 2 and 3 are slid and folded back, and the upper front 4 is turned up. As shown in FIG. 19B, the side stitches 2 on the front side are held and overlapped on the line of the back seam 5 so that the side stitches 2 are located at the center of the body, and as shown in FIG. 7. Fold the sleeve width in half lengthwise so that the cuff 6a is 2 cm inward, and fold back the side stitch 3 on the other side as shown in Fig. 7b and butt the other side stitch 2 at the center. Similarly, the sleeve 6 is folded in half vertically so that the cuff 6a is located 2 cm inward of the fold line 8 on the other side, and as shown in FIG. However, at this time, the collar 9 protrudes from the shoulder 1 and is folded, and has a protruding length when stored. It requires a wide space.
【0009】[0009]
衿及び衿芯をバイヤス織地で形成した留袖、中振袖、付下げ等の一般呉服用の 襦袢の衿であり、又、衿布及び衿芯をバイヤス織地で形成し、帯状広衿布の幅を ほぼ2分する半面側に、中央の幅が両端の幅より僅かに短くなる帯状であって襦 袢の背縫を中心として左右対称となり、且つ、着用時に形成される衿の長さとほ ぼ等しい長さを有する第1衿芯を縫着し、衿の形状とほぼ同一で長さが第1衿芯 よりやや短く、中央の幅は第1衿芯のほぼ2分の1で両端の幅が第1衿芯よりも 短く、且つ、上辺を第1衿芯に比べ深い弧状に弯曲させると共に、両端から全長 のほぼ4分の1内方寄りに、上方で拡開する溝を芯地を3片に切り離して設けた 第2衿芯を、又は該溝を設けない第2’衿芯を第1衿芯の占める面積のほぼ2分 の1にわたって縫着し、下辺が直辺で上辺が弧状の曲辺であり、長さが衿肩あき より長い第3衿芯と、第3衿芯とほぼ相似形で第3衿芯よりも直辺の長さが短い 第4衿芯と、第4衿芯とほぼ相似形であって直辺の長さが衿肩あきとほぼ同じ長 さである第5衿芯を、第2衿芯に設けた溝によって囲まれる逆台形状の中央片に 襦袢の背縫を中心として左右対称に、且つ、重ね合わせて一体的に縫着する。 Collars and collars are made of bias weave fabric for sleeves, middle-sleeved sleeves, and undergarments for general kimonos such as hangings.The collar cloth and the collar are made of bias weave fabric, and the width of the wide band collar is wide. On the half surface that divides into approximately two, the width of the center is slightly shorter than the width of both ends, and it is symmetrical about the back sewn of the underskirt and is almost equal to the length of the collar formed when worn. The first collar core having a length is sewn on, the shape is almost the same as the collar, the length is slightly shorter than the first collar core, the center width is about half of the first collar core, and the width of both ends is It is shorter than the first collar and the upper side is curved in an arc shape deeper than the first collar, and from the both ends, a groove that expands upwards is formed inwardly about 1/4 inward of the total length. A second collar core provided separately to one piece or a second'collar core without the groove is spread over approximately one half of the area occupied by the first collar core. Wearing, the lower side is a straight side, the upper side is an arcuate curved side, the length of the third collar longer than the shoulder length of the neck and the third collar, which is almost similar to the third core The fourth collar with a short length and the fifth collar with a shape similar to that of the fourth collar and having a straight side that is almost the same length as the shoulder straps are provided in the second collar. It is sewn on the center piece of the inverted trapezoid surrounded by by the back and back sewn symmetrically and lapped and integrated.
【0010】 直辺の長さが第2衿芯に設けた2条の溝の間の長さよりやや長く、且つ、下辺 の両端部が弧状である第6衿芯を第1衿芯の上面に第2衿芯の中央片と対向して 縫着し、第6衿芯とほぼ相似形であって直辺の長さが第3衿芯の直辺よりも短く 、第4衿芯の直辺よりも長い第7衿芯を第6衿芯の上面に重ねて第1衿芯に一体 的に縫着するのであり、一般呉服用の襦袢の衿を流麗且つ皺のない美形とし、花 嫁衣裳の着付けにおいて広衿襦袢の衿を流麗で且つ皺のない美形の抜衿に整形す ることと、折り畳み保管時に衿を肩山から突出しないようにか嵩低く折り畳むこ とを目的とする。On the upper surface of the first collar, the sixth collar having a straight side slightly longer than the distance between the two grooves provided on the second collar and having both ends of the lower side arcuate is formed. It is sewn facing the center piece of the second collar and is similar in shape to the sixth collar, and the length of the straight side is shorter than the straight side of the third collar and the straight side of the fourth collar. The longer 7th collar core is overlaid on the upper surface of the 6th collar core and is integrally sewn to the 1st collar core. The brim collar for general kimono has a sleek and wrinkle-free beauty, and the flower bridal gown For dressing, the purpose is to shape the wide-collar-collared collar into a beautiful, elegant and wrinkle-free collar, and to fold the collar so that it does not protrude from the shoulders when folded and stored.
【0011】[0011]
(1) 着用時 a 帯状衿布と幅方向に二つ折して衿芯に被せ、一般呉服用襦袢の衿とする と衿が体型に沿って伸びる。 (1) When worn a When a belt-shaped collar cloth is folded in two in the width direction to cover the collar core and used as a collar for a general kimono garment, the collar extends along the body shape.
【0012】 b 帯状広衿布を幅方向に二つ折して各衿芯に被せ、二つ折した衿布を更に 第1衿芯を第2衿芯の上辺の曲線に添い折り重ねるようにして二つ折した広衿襦 袢を着用すると、バイヤス織地の衿布と各衿芯が肩の体型に沿って伸び、且つ、 衿布の外面及び内面に皺のない流麗な抜衿が整形される。B A band-shaped wide collar cloth is folded in two in the width direction to cover each collar core, and the folded collar cloth is further folded by overlapping the first collar core with the curve of the upper side of the second collar core. When you wear a folded wide-collar hem, the collar cloth and the core of each collar are stretched along the shoulder shape, and the outer and inner collars of the collar cloth are smooth and elegant.
【0013】 (2) 保管時 左右の肩山を揃え、左右の脇縫いを縫い目を摺らして折り返し上前が上になる よう重ねると共に衿を前身頃の上へ第2衿芯の溝に沿って衿の折り返し上辺が肩 山と並ぶように折り返し、手前の脇縫いを裏へ折り返し背縫い目線上に重ね、脇 縫いが後身頃中央にくるようにすると共に、前身頃の上へ折り返した衿をそれぞ れ内側へ反転するように折り返し、裏側へ折り返した袖は袖口が背縫い目線より 若干突出するようにそれぞれ縦に折り返して袖口同志を突き合わせ、丈を横三つ 折りして袖の上へ重ねるのであり、衿は肩山から突出しない。(2) During storage: Align the left and right shoulders, fold the left and right side stitches over the seams, fold them back so that the upper front is facing up, and place the collar on the front body along the groove of the second collar core. Fold back so that the upper side is aligned with the shoulder, fold the front side stitch back to the back and overlap it on the back seam line so that the side stitch is in the center of the back body and the collar folded back on the front body The sleeves are folded back to the inside and folded back to the back so that the cuffs protrude slightly above the spine seam, and are folded back vertically, butting the cuffs together, fold the length horizontally and stack it on the sleeves. Therefore, the collar does not protrude from the shoulder.
【0014】[0014]
図1に示すように、帯状の衿布10をバイヤス織地で形成し、その幅1aを2 分する半面側にバイヤス織地からなる衿芯11を襦袢の背縫12を中心として左 右対称に衿布10に縫着し、衿布10を折目線13から二つ折して衿芯11に被 せ留袖、中振袖、付下げ等の一般呉服用の襦袢の衿として使用する。 As shown in FIG. 1, a band-shaped collar cloth 10 is formed of a bias woven material, and a collar core 11 made of the bias woven material is formed on the half surface that divides the width 1a into two parts symmetrically with respect to the left and right around a back sewn 12 of the underskirt. It is sewn on the cloth 10, the collar cloth 10 is folded in two from the fold line 13, and the collar core 11 is covered and used as a bridal collar for general kimono such as tomesode, mid-sleeve, and hanging.
【0015】 図2及び図7に示すように、広衿布及び衿芯がすべてバイヤス織地からなり、 帯状広衿布14(長さ170cm)の幅14a(26cm)をほぼ2分する半面 側(11cm)に、中央の幅15a(10.5cm)が両端の幅15bより僅か に短くなると共に背縫12を中心として左右対称となり、且つ、着用時に形成さ れる衿の長さ(105cm)とほぼ等しい長さを有する第1衿芯15を縫着する 。As shown in FIGS. 2 and 7, the wide collar cloth and the core of the collar are all made of a bias woven fabric, and the width 14a (26 cm) of the belt-shaped wide collar cloth 14 (length 170 cm) is roughly divided into two half sides ( 11 cm), the width 15a (10.5 cm) at the center is slightly shorter than the width 15b at both ends, and is symmetrical about the backsewn 12 and is almost the same as the length (105 cm) of the collar formed when worn. Sew the first collar core 15 having the same length.
【0016】 図8に示すように、衿の形状とほぼ同一で、長さが第1衿芯15より短く(1 00cm)中央の幅16aは第1衿芯のの中央の幅15aのほぼ2分の1(5c m)で両端の幅16bが第1衿芯の両端の幅15bより短く(9cm)且つ、上 辺16cを第1衿芯15に比べ弧状に深く弯曲させた第2衿芯16を第1衿芯1 5の占める面積のほぼ2分の1にわたり縫着する。As shown in FIG. 8, the shape of the collar is substantially the same, and the length is shorter than the first collar 15 (100 cm), and the central width 16a is almost 2 times the central width 15a of the first collar. The second collar with the width 16b at both ends being shorter than the width 15b at both ends of the first collar core (9 cm) by 1/5 (5 cm) and the upper side 16c being curved deeper in an arc shape than the first collar core 15. 16 is sewn on about half of the area occupied by the first collar core 15.
【0017】 図10に示すように、下辺が直辺で上辺が弧状である上向き弓張り形で、長さ は衿肩あきの標準寸法17cmの2倍強である38cm、中央の幅は第2衿芯の 中央の幅16aと等しい(5cm)第3衿芯17と、図11に示すように第3衿 芯17とほぼ相似形であって中央の幅は等しく(5cm)直辺の長さが第3衿芯 17より短い(28cm)第4衿芯18と、図12に示すように第4衿芯18と ほぼ相似形であって中央の幅は第4衿芯の中央の幅と等しく(5cm)直辺の長 さが衿肩あきの標準寸法である7cmよりやや長い19cmである第5衿芯19 を、第2衿芯16の中央部に背縫12を中心として左右対称に、且つ、重ね合わ せて一体的に縫着する。As shown in FIG. 10, it is an upward bowed shape in which the lower side is a straight side and the upper side is an arc shape, and the length is 38 cm, which is slightly more than twice the standard size 17 cm of the shoulder straps, and the center width is the second collar. The third collar 17 having a width equal to the central width 16a of the core (5 cm) and the third collar 17 having a shape similar to that of the third collar 17 as shown in FIG. The fourth collar 18 shorter than the third collar 17 (28 cm) is substantially similar to the fourth collar 18 as shown in FIG. 12, and the central width is equal to the central width of the fourth collar (( 5cm) The length of the straight side is 19cm, which is slightly longer than 7cm which is the standard size of the shoulder straps, which is 19cm, and the 5th collar core 19 is symmetrical to the center of the 2nd collar core with the back stitch 12 as the center, and Overlap and sew together.
【0018】 図13に示すように、直辺の長さが第2衿芯16の長さの1.7分の1(56 cm)で、中央の幅は等しく(5cm)下辺の両端部が弧状の下向き弓張り形で ある第6衿芯を第1衿芯15上に第2衿芯16と対向して縫着する。As shown in FIG. 13, the length of the straight side is 1 / 1.7 (56 cm) of the length of the second collar core 16, and the width of the center is equal (5 cm). A sixth collar core having an arcuate downward bowing shape is sewn onto the first collar core 15 so as to face the second collar core 16.
【0019】 図14に示すように第6衿芯20とほぼ相似形であって直辺の長さ(29cm )が第3衿芯17より短く第4衿芯18より長い第7衿芯21を第6衿芯20の 上面に重ねて第1衿芯15に一体的に縫着してなるものであり、22は襦袢本体 である。As shown in FIG. 14, a seventh collar 21 having a shape similar to that of the sixth collar 20 and having a straight side length (29 cm) shorter than the third collar 17 and longer than the fourth collar 18 is provided. The sixth collar 20 is superposed on the upper surface of the sixth collar 20 and integrally sewn to the first collar 15, and 22 is a main body of the armor.
【0020】 他の実施例として図9に示すように、第2衿芯の変形としてその両端からほぼ 4分の1づつ内方寄りに、上方で拡開する細い溝23を設けるように第2衿芯を 3片に分離した第2’衿芯24を形成し、図3に示すようにその中央片23aの 上面に前記第3衿芯、第4衿芯18及び第5衿芯19を重ね合わせて一体的に縫 着する。As another embodiment, as shown in FIG. 9, as a modification of the second collar core, a narrow groove 23 that expands upward is provided inwardly from each end of the second collar core by approximately one fourth. A second 'collar core 24 is formed by separating the collar core into three pieces, and the third collar core, the fourth collar core 18 and the fifth collar core 19 are superposed on the upper surface of the central piece 23a as shown in FIG. Combine and sew together.
【0021】 以上のように構成した衿芯付きの衿布10を図4に示す折り目線13で二つ折 して各衿芯上に被せ、次いで図5に示すように、第2’衿芯23の上辺の凹陥し た曲線に沿って第1衿芯15及び衿布10を折り曲げて第6衿芯20及び第7衿 芯21を第2’衿芯23、その中央片23a、第3衿芯17、第4衿芯18及び 第5衿芯19上に重ね合わせ和装花嫁用衣裳の広衿襦袢として使用するのである 。The collar cloth 10 with a collar core configured as described above is folded in two along the fold lines 13 shown in FIG. 4 to cover each collar core, and then as shown in FIG. The first collar core 15 and the collar cloth 10 are bent along the concave curve of the upper side to form the sixth collar core 20 and the seventh collar core 21 as the second 'collar core 23, the center piece 23a, and the third collar core. It is used as a wide collar of a kimono bride's costume by superimposing it on the 17, fourth collar core 18 and the fifth collar core 19.
【0022】 本考案を実施した和装用襦袢のたたみ方は、図16に示すように、左右の肩山 24を揃え、左右の脇縫25、26を縫い目を摺らして折り返し、上前27が上 になるよう重ねると共に衿28を前身頃の上へ第2’衿芯の23の溝24に沿っ て外側へ反転すると共に衿の折り返し上辺28aが肩山24と並ぶように折り返 して衿布10で囲まれる部分が逆三角形となるようにし(図16a)、左の脇縫 25を裏へ折り返し背縫目線上に重ね、脇縫25が後身頃中央にくるようにする と共に前身頃の上へ折り返した衿28をそれぞれ内側へ再度反転するように折り 返し(図16b)(図17a)裏側へ折り返した袖29は袖口29aが背縫目線 上より若干突出するようにそれぞれ縦に折り返して袖口同志を突きあわせ(図1 7b)丈を横三つ折りして袖の上へ重ね折りたたむものである(図17c)。As shown in FIG. 16, the folding method of the kimono garment according to the present invention is such that the left and right shoulders 24 are aligned and the left and right side stitches 25, 26 are folded back by sliding the seams. The collar 28 is laid on top and turned upside down on the front body along the groove 24 of the second 'collar core 23, and the collar is folded back so that the upper side 28a is aligned with the shoulder cap 24 and the collar is folded back. Make the area surrounded by the cloth 10 an inverted triangle (Fig. 16a), fold the left side stitch 25 back to the back so that it overlaps with the back seam line, and the side stitch 25 comes to the center of the back body. The collars 28 that have been folded back are folded back to the inside again (Fig. 16b) (Fig. 17a). The sleeves 29 that have been folded back are folded back vertically so that the cuffs 29a project slightly above the back seam line. Match the cuffs together (Fig. 17) b) The length is folded in three and folded over the sleeves (Fig. 17c).
【0023】[0023]
衿布10と衿芯11が共にバイヤス織地で形成され、又和装花嫁衣裳用の広衿 布14及び各衿芯15、16、17、18、19、20、21がバイヤス織地で 形成されているため、留袖、中振袖、付下げ等の和装用襦袢の衿は腰があって形 崩れすることがなく、又、体型に沿って伸び衿布が引き攣ったり皺を生ずること がなく美麗である。 The collar cloth 10 and the collar core 11 are both formed of the bias woven fabric, and the wide collar cloth 14 for the kimono bride costume and each of the collar cores 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21 are formed of the bias woven fabric. Therefore, the collar of the kimono for kimono such as tomesode, medium-sleeved sleeve, and hanging is elastic and does not lose its shape, and the collar cloth stretches along the body shape and does not cause cramps or wrinkles, which is beautiful.
【0024】 又、和装花嫁衣裳に実施した広衿襦袢を着用すると衿布と各衿芯が花嫁の肩の 体型に沿って伸び衿布が引き攣ったり皺を生ずることがなく抜衿した衿布は美麗 である。[0024] Also, when wearing a wide-collar skirt that has been carried out in a Japanese-style bridal gown, the collar cloth and each core are stretched along the body shape of the bride's shoulder, and the collar cloth pulls out without causing cramping or wrinkles. It's beautiful.
【0025】 又、第1衿芯15を二つ折して着用するため、第2衿芯16上に、又は第2’ 衿芯23の中央片23a上に第3衿芯17、第4衿芯18、第5衿芯19、第6 衿芯20及び第7衿芯21の弓張り形の各直辺と弧状辺が同じ方向へ揃って重な り合い、広衿の肩上側は各衿芯の直辺が7重になって適度の張りを保ち、広衿の 首筋側は平面視においてV字形をなす抜衿の曲面に各芯地の弧状辺が倣って適度 の張りを保つため抜衿を流麗に、且つ、強固に整形するのである。Further, since the first collar core 15 is folded in two and worn, the third collar core 17 and the fourth collar core are placed on the second collar core 16 or on the center piece 23a of the second 'collar core 23. 18, straight sides and arcuate sides of the bowed shape of the fifth collar core 19, the sixth collar core 20, and the seventh collar core 21 are aligned and overlap in the same direction, and the upper side of the shoulder of the wide collar is each collar core. The straight sides of 7 are overlapped with each other to maintain a proper tension. The neck side of the wide collar has a curved V-shaped collar in plan view, and the arcuate side of each interlining follows the curved side to maintain a proper tension. The shape of the shaving is smooth and strong.
【0026】 又、第2’衿芯23の溝24に沿って広衿を、肩山から突出しないようにコン パクトに折りたたむことができ保管に便利である。Further, the wide collar can be compactly folded along the groove 24 of the second 'collar core 23 so as not to protrude from the shoulder, which is convenient for storage.
【図1】 一般呉服の襦袢の衿用に実施した本考案を示
し、衿布を展開し、衿布の幅のほぼ2分の1の占める半
面側に衿芯を縫着した状態を示す正面図。FIG. 1 is a front view showing a state in which the present invention is applied to a collar of a general kimono, and a collar cloth is unfolded, and a collar core is sewn on the half-face side which occupies about half the width of the collar cloth. Fig.
【図2】 広衿布を展開してその内側のほぼ2分の1
を占める面積にわたり各衿芯を重ね合わせ縫着した状態
を示す正面図。[Fig. 2] Expanding the wide collar cloth and halving the inside
Front view showing a state in which each collar core is overlapped and sewn over the area occupying the area.
【図3】 図2における他の実施例を示す正面図。FIG. 3 is a front view showing another embodiment in FIG.
【図4】 各衿芯を重ね合わせて縫着した広衿布を二
つ折して各衿芯に被せた状態を示す正面図。FIG. 4 is a front view showing a state in which a wide collar cloth, in which each collar core is overlapped and sewn on, is folded in two and covered on each collar core.
【図5】 各衿芯に被せた広衿布を更に二つ折りし着
用できる状態とした正面図。FIG. 5 is a front view showing a state in which a wide collar cloth covered on each collar core can be further folded in two to be worn.
【図6】 図5におけるA−A断面図。6 is a sectional view taken along line AA in FIG.
【図7】 本考案における第1衿芯の正面図。FIG. 7 is a front view of a first collar core according to the present invention.
【図8】 同第2衿芯の正面図。FIG. 8 is a front view of the second collar core.
【図9】 同第2’衿芯の正面図。FIG. 9 is a front view of the second 'collar core.
【図10】 同第3衿芯の正面図。FIG. 10 is a front view of the third collar core.
【図11】 同第4衿芯の正面図。FIG. 11 is a front view of the fourth collar core.
【図12】 同第5衿芯の正面図。FIG. 12 is a front view of the fifth collar core.
【図13】 同第6衿芯の正面図。FIG. 13 is a front view of the sixth collar core.
【図14】 同第7衿芯の正面図。FIG. 14 is a front view of the seventh collar core.
【図15】 本考案に係る広衿襦袢を抜衿に着付けし
た使用状態を示す斜視図。FIG. 15 is a perspective view showing a state in which the wide-collar collar according to the present invention is attached to the outer collar.
【図16】 (a) 本考案に係る広衿襦袢を折りた
たむため左右の肩山を揃え、左右の脇縫を摺らして上前
が上になるよう重ねると共に広衿布を第2’衿芯に設け
た溝に沿い折り返し、衿の折り返し上辺が肩山とならび
逆三角形状態となるよう折り返した状態を示す正面図。 (b) 手前の脇縫を裏へ折り返し後身頃中央にくるよ
うにすると共に衿布を内側へ反転した状態を示す正面
図。FIG. 16 (a) Align the left and right shoulders in order to fold the wide-collar collar according to the present invention, slide the left and right side stitches so that the upper front is on top and the wide-collar cloth is the second'collar core. The front view which shows the state folded back along the groove | channel provided in, and the folded back so that the upper side of the folded back of the collar should be in the shape of an inverted triangle along with the shoulder. (B) A front view showing a state in which the side stitches on the front side are turned back to the back so that they come to the center of the body and the collar cloth is turned inside.
【図17】 (a) 裏側へ折り返した袖を、袖口が
背縫目線上より若干突出するように縦に折り返した状態
を示す正面図。 (b) 他方の袖を折り返し、双方の袖口を突き合わせ
た状態を示す正面図。 (c) 丈を横三つ折りして袖の上へ重ねた折りたたみ
の最終段階を示す正面図。FIG. 17 (a) is a front view showing a state in which the sleeve folded back to the back side is folded vertically so that the cuffs slightly project from above the back seam line. (B) A front view showing a state in which the other sleeve is folded back and both cuffs are butted. (C) A front view showing the final stage of folding in which the length is folded in three horizontally and stacked on the sleeve.
【図18】 (a) 従来の長襦袢のたたみかたを示
し、左右の肩山を据え、左右の脇縫を縫目を摺らせて上
前が上になるよう重ねた状態を示す正面図。 (b) 同、手前の脇縫を背縫目線上に重ね、脇縫が身
頃中央にくるようにした状態を示す正面図。FIG. 18 (a) is a front view showing a conventional folding method of a long armpit, showing a state in which the left and right shoulders are set and the left and right side stitches are slid so that the upper front is on top. . (B) Similarly, the front view showing a state in which the side stitches on the front side are overlapped on the back seam line so that the side stitches come to the center of the body.
【図19】 (a) 同、一方の袖を袖幅を縦に二つ
折した状態を示す正面図。 (b) 同、一方の脇縫を折り返して他方の脇縫と中央
で突き合わせ、更に他方の袖を袖幅を縦に二つ折した状
態を示す正面図。 (c) 同、丈を横二つ折りして袖の上へ重ねた最終段
階を示す正面図。FIG. 19 (a) is a front view showing a state in which one of the sleeves is vertically folded into two sleeve widths. (B) In the same manner, a front view showing a state in which one of the side stitches is folded back and butt-joined with the other side stitch at the center, and the other sleeve is further folded in two vertically in the sleeve width. (C) A front view showing the final stage of folding the length in half and stacking it on the sleeve.
10 衿布 12 背縫 14 帯状広衿布 15 第一衿芯 16 第2衿芯 17 第3衿芯 1
8 第4衿芯 19 第5衿芯 20 第6衿芯 21 第7衿芯 2
2 襦袢本体 23 第2’衿芯 23a 中央片 24 溝10 Collar cloth 12 Backstitching 14 Wide belt collar cloth 15 First collar core 16 Second collar core 17 Third collar core 1
8 Fourth Collar Core 19 Fifth Collar Core 20 Sixth Collar Core 21 Seventh Collar Core 2
2 Folding body 23 Second 2'collar core 23a Central piece 24 Groove
Claims (3)
を特徴とする和装用襦袢の衿。1. A collar for a kimono garment characterized in that the collar and the collar core are formed of a bias woven fabric.
状広衿布の幅をほぼ2分する半面側に、着用時に形成さ
れる衿の長さとほぼ等しく、中央部の幅が両端の幅より
僅かに狭くなる第一衿芯を襦袢の背縫を中心とし左右対
称になるよう縫着し、衿形状とほぼ同一形状で長さが第
一衿芯よりやや短く、中央の幅が第一衿芯の中央部の幅
の2分の1弱で両端の幅が第一衿芯よりもやや短く、且
つ、上辺を第一衿芯に比べ深い弧状に弯曲させた第2’
衿芯を、第一衿芯の占める面積のほぼ2分の1にわたっ
て縫着し、下辺が直辺で上辺が弧状の曲辺であり、長さ
が衿肩あきより長い第3衿芯と、第3衿芯とほぼ相似形
で直辺の長さが第3衿芯の直辺よりも短い第4衿芯と、
第4衿芯とほぼ相似形であって直辺の長さが衿肩あきと
ほぼ同じ長さである第5衿芯を第2衿芯上に襦袢の背縫
を中心として左右対称に、且つ、重ね合わせて一体的に
縫着し、上辺が直辺であって、且つ、直辺の長さが第3
衿芯の直辺よりも長く、下辺の両端部が弧状であると共
に幅が第1衿芯の中央部の幅の2分の1弱である第6衿
芯を第1衿芯の上面に第2衿芯と対向して縫着し、第6
衿芯とほぼ相似形であって直辺の長さが第3衿芯の直辺
よりも短く第4衿芯の直辺よりも長い第7衿芯を第6衿
芯の上面に重ねて第1衿芯に一体的に縫着して成る和装
用襦袢の衿。2. A collar cloth and a collar core are formed of a bias woven fabric, and a half width that divides the width of the belt-like wide collar cloth into about half is approximately equal to the length of the collar formed when worn, and the width of the central portion is at both ends. The first collar, which is slightly narrower than the width of, is sewn so that it is symmetrical about the back stitch of the undergarment, and the shape is almost the same as the collar shape, but the length is slightly shorter than the first collar and the center width is Second half with a half of the width of the center of the first collar core, the width of both ends slightly shorter than the first collar core, and the upper side curved in an arc shape deeper than the first collar core.
The collar core is sewn over approximately one-half of the area occupied by the first collar core, the lower side is a straight side and the upper side is an arcuate curved side, and a third collar core whose length is longer than the shoulder width is A fourth collar having a shape similar to that of the third collar and having a straight side shorter than the straight side of the third collar.
The fifth collar, which has a shape similar to that of the fourth collar and the length of the straight side thereof is almost the same as the length of the neck and shoulders, is symmetrical with respect to the back stitch of the underskirt on the second collar, and , Overlapped and integrally sewn, the upper side is the straight side, and the length of the straight side is the third
A sixth collar, which is longer than the straight side of the collar and has arcuate ends on the lower side and a width that is a little less than half the width of the central portion of the first collar, is placed on the upper surface of the first collar. 2 sewn facing the neckline, 6th
The seventh core, which has a shape similar to that of the collar and has a straight side length shorter than that of the third collar and longer than that of the fourth collar, is placed on top of the sixth collar. A collar of a kimono skirt that is integrally sewn onto a collar core.
状広衿布の幅をほぼ2分する半面側に、着用時に形成さ
れる衿の長さとほぼ等しく、中央部で両端の幅より僅か
に幅が狭くなる第1衿芯を襦袢の背縫を中心とし左右対
称になるよう縫着し、衿形状とほぼ同じで、長さが第一
衿芯よりやや短く、中央の幅が第一衿芯の中央部の幅の
ほぼ2分の1で両端の幅が第1衿芯よりも短く、且つ、
上辺を第1衿芯に比べ深い弧状に弯曲させると共に、両
端からほぼ4分の1内方よりに、上方で拡開する溝を衿
芯を3片に切離して設けた第2衿芯を第1衿芯の占める
面積のほぼ2分の1にわたって縫着し、下辺が直辺で上
辺が弧状の曲辺であり、長さが衿肩あきより長い第3衿
芯と第3衿芯とほぼ相似形で第3衿芯よりも直辺の長さ
が短い第4衿芯を、第4衿芯とほぼ相似形であって直辺
の長さが衿肩あきとほぼ同じ長さである第5衿芯を、第
2衿芯に設けた溝によって囲まれる逆台形状の中央片に
襦袢の背縫を中心として左右対称に、且つ、重ね合わせ
て一体的に縫着し、直辺の長さが第2衿芯に設けた溝間
の長さよりやや長く、且つ、下辺の両端部が弧状である
第6衿芯を、第1衿芯の上面に第2衿芯の中央片と対向
して縫着し、第6衿芯とほぼ相似形であって直辺の長さ
が第3衿芯の直辺よりも短く、第4衿芯の直辺よりも長
い第7衿芯を第6衿芯の上面に重ねて第1衿芯に一体的
に縫着して成る和装用襦袢の衿。3. A collar cloth and a collar core are formed from a bias woven fabric, and the width of the wide belt-like collar cloth is divided into two parts on the half surface side, which is almost equal to the length of the collar formed at the time of wearing and the width of both ends at the center part. The first collar core, which is slightly narrower, is sewn symmetrically around the back sewn of the undergarment. It is almost the same as the collar shape, the length is slightly shorter than the first collar core, and the center width is Approximately one half of the width of the central portion of the first collar core, the width of both ends is shorter than that of the first collar core, and
The upper side is curved in an arc shape deeper than the first collar, and the second collar provided with a groove that expands upward from the both ends is cut into three pieces from the inside approximately 1/4 inward. Sewn over approximately one-half of the area occupied by one collar core, the lower side is a straight side and the upper side is an arcuate curved side, and the length of the third and third collars is longer than the shoulder width A fourth collar core having a similar shape and a shorter straight side length than the third collar core is a shape similar to the fourth collar core and having a straight side length substantially the same as that of the shoulder collar. 5 collars are sewn in a center piece of an inverted trapezoid surrounded by a groove formed in the 2nd collar core, symmetrically about the back sewn of the underarm and sewn together, and the length of the straight side A sixth collar having a length slightly longer than the distance between the grooves provided on the second collar and having arcuate ends on the lower side, facing the center piece of the second collar on the upper surface of the first collar. And sew up, 6th The 7th collar core, which is almost similar to the core and has a straight side shorter than the straight side of the 3rd collar core and longer than the straight side of the 4th collar core, is placed on top of the 6th collar core. A collar of a kimono skirt that is integrally sewn onto a collar core.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP1994003820U JP3003060U (en) | 1994-04-13 | 1994-04-13 | A kimono collar |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP1994003820U JP3003060U (en) | 1994-04-13 | 1994-04-13 | A kimono collar |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JP3003060U true JP3003060U (en) | 1994-10-11 |
Family
ID=43139015
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP1994003820U Expired - Lifetime JP3003060U (en) | 1994-04-13 | 1994-04-13 | A kimono collar |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JP3003060U (en) |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN116695344A (en) * | 2023-05-31 | 2023-09-05 | 金昌金川万方实业有限责任公司 | Production process of clothing open-thread belt loop |
-
1994
- 1994-04-13 JP JP1994003820U patent/JP3003060U/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN116695344A (en) * | 2023-05-31 | 2023-09-05 | 金昌金川万方实业有限责任公司 | Production process of clothing open-thread belt loop |
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