JP2018520118A - Water-in-silicone solid composition having water release effect - Google Patents

Abstract

A solid composition for the care and / or make-up of keratin materials in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion comprises a solid fatty phase and an aqueous phase. The composition comprises (i) at least one silicone elastomer, (ii) at least one dimethicone copolyol, (iii) at least one (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl dimethicone, and (iv) at least One wax having a melting point of 60 ° C. or higher and (v) at least one solid fatty substance selected from C _{18 to} C ₃₀ alkanes, solid esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof. Skin, and more particularly face or neck makeup and / or care methods use such solid cosmetic compositions.

Description

  The present invention relates to the field of keratin materials, in particular skin make-up and / or care, and in particular aims to provide a solid foundation in the form of a solid cosmetic composition, in particular a water-in-silicone emulsion.

  The invention also relates to a method of skin and more particularly a face or neck makeup and / or care using such a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention.

  Foundation compositions are generally used to make skin, especially facial colors attractive, but are also used to hide skin defects such as red spots or stains. Conventional foundations exist in both fluid and solid forms, each with its own advantages. In general, what attracts consumers is a cosmetic composition, particularly a foundation, which is easy to use and has a good feeling on the skin.

  “Ease of use” is intended to mean a composition that is easy to take and easy to apply to the skin.

  “Sense” is intended to mean a moisture release (free) effect, a cooling effect, and a melting effect. Moisture release effect refers to a very fresh feel and prolonged moisturization due to water droplets on the keratin material, especially the skin; cooling effect refers to an immediate temperature drop feel in the keratin material after application of the composition. The melting effect refers to the change in texture from solid to fluid when the composition is applied to a keratin material.

  Efforts have been made to develop cosmetic compositions with these properties.

Patent application WO2012 / 145862 are fatty phase, aqueous phase and at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer, at least one dimethicone copolyol, at least one C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone, water-in-silicone emulsion form A fluid foundation composition is disclosed. The fatty phase comprises at least one volatile oil and / or at least one non-volatile oil and optionally at least one wax.

  However, it has been found that prior art foundations are not easy to apply and apply to the skin due to their fluid form.

  Besides that, the skin sensation after application to the skin should be further improved.

  Therefore, there is a need to develop solid cosmetic compositions, such as solid foundation compositions.

  Specifically, it is necessary to develop a solid cosmetic composition that is easy for a user to take with a finger or an applicator and easy to apply to the skin.

  It also provides good sensation when applied to the skin, more specifically the face and / or neck, i.e. moisture release effect, cooling sensation, and even melting effect and at the same time good stability against time and temperature changes. There is also a need to develop a solid cosmetic composition for skin that exhibits sexiness.

WO2012 / 145862 EP0295886 US5236986 US5412004 US5837793 US5811487 WO2004 / 024798 FR-A-2 792 190 US5538793 EP-A-542669 EP-A-787730 EP-A-787731 WO-A-96 / 08537 US4,578,266

  The object of the present invention is to provide a solid cosmetic composition, in particular a solid foundation composition, in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion.

  The present invention also provides a solid cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion that is easy for a user to take with a finger or applicator and that is easy to apply to the skin and exhibits good stability over time and temperature. It is also an object to provide a product, particularly a solid foundation composition.

  Another object of the present invention is to provide a good skin sensation when applied to the skin, more specifically the face and / or neck, i.e. a water release (free) effect, a melting effect and a cooling sensation, while at the same time. And to provide a solid cosmetic composition, in particular a solid foundation composition, in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion that exhibits good stability against temperature changes.

Thus, the present invention comprises a solid fatty phase and an aqueous phase, and
(i) at least one silicone elastomer;
(ii) at least one dimethicone copolyol;
(iii) at least one (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl dimethicone;
(iv) at least one wax having a melting point of 60 ° C. or higher;
(v) C ₁₈ ~C ₃₀ alkanes, solid esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, or and at least one solid fatty substance mixtures thereof, solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-silicone emulsions About.

  Surprisingly, the inventors have found that the compositions according to the invention provide good moisture release, melting and cooling sensations while at the same time exhibiting good stability over time and temperature changes. did.

  More surprisingly, it has been observed that the combination of at least one wax with a melting point of 60 ° C. or higher and at least one solid fatty substance improves the melting and cooling sensation and the stability to time and temperature changes. It was.

  The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for skin care and / or makeup comprising applying a composition of the invention to a keratin material.

  The inventors have indeed found that the cosmetic composition according to the invention is easy to remove and very easy to apply to the skin so as to evenly coat the skin, and after application it is fresh to the user. Has been found to provide a good feel and long-term moisturization. In addition, the composition is very thin and light and has been found to have a very good balance between the sensation of skin care efficacy (freshness and moisture retention) and makeup efficacy (appropriate coverage).

  The cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably a foundation or cast solid product in the form of a compact emulsion.

  Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “solid” refers to a composition that does not flow at its own mass at room temperature (25 ° C.).

  Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “solid emulsion” means that the emulsion does not flow after 1 hour at room temperature (25 ° C.) in its own mass.

The term “solid” composition means a composition whose hardness at 20 ° C. and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is 30 Nm ⁻¹ or more when measured according to the following protocol.

  The hardness of the solid composition is measured according to the following protocol. The composition for determining hardness is stored at 20 ° C. for 24 hours before the measurement of hardness.

  The hardness can be measured by the “cheese wire” method at 20 ° C., which means that a rod-like product, preferably a cylinder, is used with a hard tungsten wire with a diameter of 250 μm and 100 mm / min against this rod. The wire is cut at a speed by moving the wire at a speed.

The hardness of a sample of the composition of the present invention is expressed as Nm ⁻¹ and is measured using a DFGS2 tensile tester manufactured by Indelco-Chatillon. The measurement is repeated 3 times and then averaged. The average of the three values read using the tensile tester described above is denoted Y and expressed in grams. This average value is converted to Newton and then divided by L which represents the longest distance that the wire will pass. For a cylindrical bar, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).

Hardness is converted to Nm ^-1 by the following formula:
(Y × 10-3 × 9.8) / L

  If measuring at different temperatures, the bars are stored at this new temperature for 24 hours prior to measurement.

In the following or all preceding contexts, the term “silicone” is a variable molecular weight branched or crosslinked obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of an appropriately functionalized silane in accordance with what is generally accepted. It is understood to refer to any organosilicon polymer or oligomer having a linear or cyclic structure, which essentially consists of the main units in which the silicon atoms are bonded to one another via oxygen atoms (siloxane bonds ≡Si A hydrocarbon group consisting of repetition of O—Si≡), optionally substituted, is directly bonded to the silicon atom via a carbon atom. The most common hydrocarbon groups are alkyl groups, especially C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkyl groups, especially methyl groups, fluoroalkyl groups and aryl groups, especially phenyl groups. These groups include, for example, may be substituted by C ₁ -C ₄₀ ester or ether groups or C ₇ -C ₆₀ aralkyl group.

Silicone Elastomer The composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone elastomer, also referred to as an organopolysiloxane elastomer. The silicone elastomer may be an emulsifying elastomer or a non-emulsifying elastomer.

  In a preferred embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is an organopolysiloxane elastomer that does not contain hydrophilic chains such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerolated units, also known by the name of a non-emulsifying elastomer.

  In one embodiment, a silicone elastomer or non-emulsifying silicone elastomer that does not contain a hydrophilic chain comprises a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst. By crosslinking addition reaction with a diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to the silane; or in particular in the presence of an organotin compound and bonded to a silicon with a diorganopolysiloxane having hydroxyl end groups A dehydrogenative crosslinking coupling reaction with at least one hydrogen-containing diorganopolysiloxane; or a hydroxylated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organopolysiloxane in a crosslinking cup By ring reaction; or An elastically crosslinked organopolysiloxane that can be obtained by thermal crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking the organopolysiloxane with high energy radiation such as gamma radiation, ultraviolet light, or electron beam Can be defined.

  Preferably, the elastically crosslinked organopolysiloxane contains at least two hydrogens each bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst (C2), as described for example in patent application EP 0 295 886. It can be obtained by a cross-linking addition reaction between diorganopolysiloxane (A2) and diorganopolysiloxane (B2) containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon.

  In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reacting dimethylpolysiloxane having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups with methylhydrogenpolysiloxane having trimethylsiloxy end groups in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

  Compound (A2) is a base reagent for forming an elastic organopolysiloxane, and crosslinking is performed by addition reaction of compound (A2) and compound (B2) in the presence of a catalyst (C2).

Compound (A2) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower (e.g. C ₂ -C ₄₎ alkenyl group, a lower alkenyl group are vinyl, be selected from allyl and propenyl it can. These lower alkenyl groups can be located at the end of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (A2) can have a branched, straight chain, cyclic or network structure, but a straight chain structure is preferred. Compound (A2) may have a viscosity ranging from a liquid state to a gum state. Preferably, compound (A2) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C.

  Organopolysiloxane (A2) is methylvinylsiloxane, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymer, dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymer with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylvinylsiloxy end Dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer having a trimethylsiloxy end group, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer having a trimethylsiloxy end group, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer having a trimethylsiloxy end group, dimethylvinylsiloxy end Methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxane having a group and dimethylvinylsiloxane It may be selected from dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers having cis end groups.

  The compound (B2) is specifically an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon in each molecule, and therefore, this serves as a crosslinking agent for the compound (A2).

  Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylene groups per molecule of compound (A2) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon per molecule of compound (B2) is at least 4.

  Compound (B2) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear or branched structure, or a cyclic structure.

  Compound (B2) may have a viscosity in the range of 1 to 50000 centistokes at 25 ° C., especially so as to have good miscibility with compound (A).

  Compound (B2) has a molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon in compound (B2) and the total amount of all ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (A2) from 1/1 to 20 Advantageously, it is added in such an amount that it is in the range of / 1.

  Compound (B2) may be selected from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes having trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers having trimethylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.

  Compound (C2) is a cross-linking reaction catalyst, especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complex, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complex, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complex, platinum black and platinum (supported on a support) It is.

  The catalyst (C2) is preferably added as a clean platinum group metal in an amount of 0.1 to 1000 parts by mass, more preferably 1 to 100 parts by mass, per 1000 parts by mass of the total amount of the compounds (A2) and (B2).

  Other organic groups such as alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; phenyl, tolyl or xylyl Substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as epoxy groups, carboxylic acid ester groups or mercapto groups are the above-mentioned organopolysiloxanes (A2) and (B2 ) In silicon.

  According to one preferred embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or one silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer is particularly in the form of non-spherical particles.

  The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” consists essentially of, and consists of, carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and does not contain silicon or fluorine atoms, and includes ester, ether, amine and amide groups. Is understood to mean an oil that may contain.

  The term “silicone oil” is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, in particular comprising Si—O groups.

  In a preferred embodiment, the silicone oil mixed with the organopolysiloxane elastomer to form a gel is a linear silicone oil having a molecular weight in the range of 1 to 350 cst, especially 2 to 100 cst, preferably 2 to 10 cst at 25 ° C. Dimethylsiloxane). The viscosity of the silicone oil may be measured according to ASTM D-445 standards.

As examples of organopolysiloxane elastomers mixed with linear silicone oils used in the present invention, the following reference names:
-Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone, for example the commercial names "KSG-6" and "KSG-16" sold by the company Shin Etsu;
-Dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, such as the commercial reference name "DC9041" sold by Dow Corning
Can be mentioned.

  In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least a non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form, the organopolysiloxane elastomer having a viscosity in the range of 1-100 cst at 25 ° C., in particular 1-10 cst at 25 ° C. Linear silicone oils, specifically those whose INCI name is dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone, such as the commercial reference names `` KSG-6 '' and `` KSG-16 '' sold by Shin-Etsusha, preferably Mixed with KSG-16.

  In another embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is an emulsifiable elastomer.

  An emulsifiable silicone elastomer is understood to mean a silicone elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain.

  The emulsifying silicone elastomer can be selected from polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated silicone elastomers.

  A polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a cross-linking addition reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and one polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups. Is a cross-linked organopolysiloxane obtainable by

  Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are described, inter alia, in patents US5236986, US5412004, US5837793 and US5811487, the contents of which are incorporated by reference.

  As polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers, the names “KSG-21”, “KSG-20”, “KSG-30”, “KSG-31”, “KSG-32”, “KSG-33”, “KSG” -210 "," KSG-310 "," KSG-320 "," KSG-330 "," KSG-340 "," X-226146 ", and the name" DC9010 "by Dow Corning, It is possible to use what is marketed "DC9011".

  Polyglycerolated silicone elastomer is a cross-linking addition reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and a polyglycerolated compound having an ethylenically unsaturated group, particularly in the presence of a platinum catalyst. It is a cross-linked organopolysiloxane elastomer that can be obtained.

  Such polyglycerolated elastomers are described inter alia in the patent application WO2004 / 024798.

  Use polyglycerolated silicone elastomers sold under the names “KSG-710”, “KSG-810”, “KSG-820”, “KSG-830” and “KSG-840” by Shin-Etsu. Is possible.

  In a preferred embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is a non-emulsifying elastomer, ie, an organopolysiloxane elastomer that does not contain hydrophilic chains.

  Non-emulsifiable elastomers that can be used are the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG -43 and KSG-44, those sold by Dow Corning under the names DC9040, DC9041, DC9509, DC9505 and DC9506, the names Gransil sold by Grant Industries, and General Electric The name SFE 839 sold is mentioned.

  Non-emulsifiable elastomers that can be used more specifically include the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by Shin-Etsu. Products sold, more specifically those sold under the names KSG-15 and KSG-16, and preferentially those sold under the name KSG-16.

  KSG-16 is a gel composed of 24% dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and 76% dimethicone.

  KSG-15 is a gel composed of 6% dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and 94% cyclodimethicone.

  In a preferred embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer has the INCI name of dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.

  The composition according to the invention is the content of active substance relative to the total weight of the composition, in the range of 0.01% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 0.6% by weight, even more preferably 0.03% to 0.3% by weight. The organopolysiloxane elastomer, particularly the non-emulsifiable organopolysiloxane elastomer, may be contained alone or as a mixture.

  In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one gel composed of dimethicone and dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as KSG-16, as a non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer.

  In a more preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises KSG-16 as a non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer, 0.1 wt% to 3 wt%, preferably 0.1 wt% to 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition. It is included in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% by weight.

  In another embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one silicone elastomer powder.

  According to the invention, the composition comprises at least one dimethicone copolyol.

Dimethicone Copolyol The dimethicone copolyol used according to the invention is advantageously an oxypropylenated and / or oxyethylenated polydimethyl (methyl) siloxane.

  As dimethicone copolyols, those corresponding to the following formula (I) may be used:

[Where
R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ are each independently a C _{1 to} C ₆ alkyl group or a-(CH ₂ ) _x- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _z -OR ₄ group. Wherein at least one of the R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ groups is not an alkyl group, R ₄ is hydrogen, a C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl group or a C ₂ -C ₄ acyl group,
A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50, provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time,
x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30,
z is an integer in the range of 0-5].

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (I), R ₁ = R ₃ = methyl group, x is an integer in the range of 2-6 and y is an integer in the range of 4-30 It is. R ₄ is in particular hydrogen.

  As examples of compounds of formula (I), mention may be made of compounds of formula (II):

(Wherein A is an integer in the range of 20-105, B is an integer in the range of 2-10, and y is an integer in the range of 10-20).

As examples of silicone compounds of formula (I), mention may also be made of compounds of formula (III):
HO- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y- (CH ₂ ) ₃ -[(CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO] _{A '} -(CH ₂ ) _3- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -OH (III)
(Wherein A ′ and y are integers in the range of 10-20).

  Dimethicone copolyols sold by Dow Corning under the designations DC5329, DC7439-146, DC2-5695 and Q4-3667; and Shinetsu Co. And those sold under KF-6028.

  In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention is one of those sold under the names KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016, KF-6017 and KF-6028 by Shin-Etsu as dimethicone copolyol. More specifically, KF-6017 is included. The INCI name for KF-6017 is PEG-10 dimethicone.

  Dimethicone copolyol in the emulsion according to the invention is 0.01% to 2% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, preferentially 0.1% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. It can be present in a range of contents.

  In a more preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises, as dimethicone copolyol, PEG-10 dimethicone in an amount of 0.01% to 2% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. Preferentially included in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight.

  In another preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises PEG-10 dimethicone as the dimethicone copolyol and a mixture of dimethicone and dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer as the organopolysiloxane elastomer containing no hydrophilic chains.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol in addition to the organopolysiloxane elastomer and the dimethicone copolyol.

Advantageously, (i) at least one silicone elastomer, (ii) at least one dimethicone copolyol, and (iii) at least one C ₈ -C in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion according to the invention. The combination with ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol results in water droplets having a good size and an improved fresh sensation when applied to keratin materials, which are large in size compared to conventional emulsions, ie 5-20 μm. As a result, it is possible to increase the amount of moisture supplied to the skin. In addition, large droplets are more fragile than small, ie 2-5 μm droplets.

  In a preferred embodiment, the droplets in the composition according to the invention have a size ranging from 2 μm to 50 μm, in particular from 2 μm to 40 μm, more particularly from 5 μm to 30 μm, preferably from 5 μm to 20 μm.

  Within the meaning of the present invention, “stability” means that when the composition is left in a 45 ° C. oven for 2 months and then returned to room temperature, the fine layer of the composition is deformed between fingers. It refers to a composition in which no grain is felt by the touch of

C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol as described above, the compositions of the present invention comprises at least one C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol.

Advantageously, the presence of C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol in the composition according to the present invention exhibit good stability at room temperature (25 ° C.). The stability of the composition according to the invention also shows good stability at 37 ° C. or 45 ° C., especially after storage for 2 months.

C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol of the present invention, more specifically, oxypropylenated and / or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C ₈ ~C ₂₂₎ alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane.

C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol is advantageously a compound of the formula (IV):

[Where
- PE _{is, (- C 2 H 4 O} ) x - expressed from _{(C 3 H 6 O) y} -R group, select where R is an alkyl group containing a hydrogen atom and 1 to 4 carbon atoms X is an integer in the range of 0-100 and y is an integer in the range of 0-80, provided that x and y are not equal to 0 at the same time,
-m is an integer in the range of 1-40, n is an integer in the range of 10-200, o is an integer in the range of 1-100, and p is an integer in the range of 7-21 And q is an integer in the range of 0-4].

  Preferably, R is a hydrogen atom, m is an integer in the range of 1 to 10, n is an integer in the range of 10 to 100, o is an integer in the range of 1 to 30, and p is 15. Yes, q is 3.

In a preferred embodiment, at least one C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol of the present invention include cetyl dimethicone copolyol is selected from products sold under the name Abil EM-90, for example by the company Goldschmidt.

At least one C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol of, for example, the emulsion disclosed herein, relative to the total weight of the composition, 0.1 wt% to 1.5 wt%, preferably from 0.1% to It may be present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight.

In a preferred embodiment, C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol is cetyl dimethicone copolyol, a product sold under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt and more particularly.

  Abil EM-90 is cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone.

In a more preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises 0.1% by weight of cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone as a C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol herein, relative to the total weight of the composition. -1.5% by weight, preferably 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, more specifically 0.1% by weight to 0.8% by weight.

In another preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention, C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol, cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone as a polyol, and dimethicone and dimethicone as organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain Contains a mixture of / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.

In another preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention, a mixture of dimethicone and dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain, PEG-10 dimethicone as dimethicone copolyol, and C ₈ ~ Cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone is included as C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol.

  In another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises 0.03% to 0.3% by weight of dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, 0.1% to 1% by weight of PEG in the active substance, relative to the total weight of the composition. -10 dimethicone, and 0.1 wt% to 0.8 wt% cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone.

Aqueous phase Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in an amount of 40% by weight or more of the total weight of the composition, in particular accounting for 40% to 80% by weight, in particular 45% to 60% by weight.

In one embodiment, the aqueous phase comprises an alcohol, particularly ethanol; a polyethylene glycol having 6 to 80 ethylene oxide units; a polyol such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, maltitol, sorbitol, glycol such as propylene. glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol, glycol ethers, such as mono-, - di - or tri-propylene glycol or mono, - di - or triethylene glycol (C ₁ ~C ₄₎ alkyl ethers, and their Any mixture of can be included.

  In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one glycol. Preferably the glycol is selected from propylene glycol, pentylene glycol and any mixtures thereof.

  For example, propylene glycol is sold by Dow chemical under the reference name “propylene glycol USP / EP”.

  The glycol can be present in a content ranging from 3% to 10% by weight, preferably from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

  The aqueous phase can additionally contain stabilizers such as sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride, magnesium sulfate, preferably sodium chloride.

Fatty phase According to the present invention, the fatty phase comprises at least one wax having a melting point of 60 ° C. or higher and at least one solid fatty substance.

  According to the invention, the composition comprises a wax. The wax contains at least one wax having a melting point of 60 ° C. or higher.

  Waxes considered in the context of the present invention are generally lipophilic compounds that are solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), capable of reversible change of solid / liquid, and have a melting point of 60 ° C. or higher. is there.

Examples of waxes suitable for the present invention include, among others, hydrocarbon-based waxes such as bees wax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, aurikuri wax, african hanegay wax ( esparto grass wax), berry wax, shellac wax, molasses and sumach wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin, and ozokerite; polyethylene wax, wax obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters, linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃₂ fatty chains, preferably fatty acid or d obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ chains Mention may be made of stealth, silicone waxes and fluoro waxes, or mixtures thereof.

  An example is polyethylene sold by New Phase Technologies under the trade name Performalene 500-L Polyethylene.

Mention may also be made of fatty acids obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing linear or branched C _{8 to} C ₃₂ fatty chains, preferably C _{16 to} C ₁₈ chains. Among these compounds, mention may be made in particular of stearic acid, palmitic acid or mixtures thereof. The fatty acids used in the present invention are, for example, the trade names AEC Stearic Acid sold by A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd., Emersol, Protameen Chemicals, Inc. sold by Emery Oleochemical LLC. There is a commercial product of Palmitic Acid PC sold by the company.

  For esters obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, mention may be made of waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73 (registered) by the company Sophim. Wax sold under the trademark) may also be used. Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2 792 190.

Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ chain fatty alcohols are also easy to use, such as those sold under the product names Phytowax Olive 12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57 by SOPHIM.

Available waxes are C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl alone or as a mixture (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (containing 20 to 40 carbon atoms in the alkyl group). Such waxes are sold, inter alia, under the names Kester Wax K82P®, Hydroxypolyester K82P® and Kester Wax K80P® by the company Koster Keunen.

  Mention may be made of candelilla (euphorbia cerifera wax), for example sold under the reference name “NC 1630” by the company Celerica Noda.

  Mention may also be made of ozokerite, for example the commercial reference name “Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P” sold by the company Strahl & Pitsch.

  In a preferred embodiment, the wax of the present invention having a melting point of 60 ° C. or higher is solid at room temperature and is candelilla, ozokerite, or a mixture thereof.

  The wax can be present in a proportion of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 5% by weight, in particular 1% to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

  In one embodiment, the solid fatty material is solid at room temperature and has a melting point of 30 ° C. or higher.

In another embodiment, the solid fatty substance is, C ₁₈ -C ₃₀ alkane is selected from a solid ester, or mixtures of these fatty acids and fatty alcohols.

C ₁₈ -C ₃₀ alkane is a straight-chain or branched alkanes containing 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

In preferred embodiments, the C ₁₈ -C ₃₀ alkane is octadecane (C ₁₈ H ₃₈ ), nonadecane (C ₁₉ H ₄₀ ), eicosane (C ₂₀ H ₄₂ ), heneicosane (C ₂₁ H ₄₄ ), tricosane (C ₂₃ H ₄₈ ), tetracosane (C ₂₄ H ₅₀ ), pentacosane (C ₂₅ H ₅₂ ), hexacosane (C ₂₆ H ₅₄ ), heptacosane (C ₂₇ H ₅₆ ), octacosane (C ₂₈ H ₅₈ ), nonacosane (C ₂₉ H ₆₀ ) , Triacontane (C ₃₀ H ₆₂ ), isononyl isononanoate, or a mixture thereof. More specifically, the C ₁₈ -C ₃₀ alkane is selected from octadecane, isononyl isononanoate, and any mixture thereof.

Examples of C ₁₈ -C ₃₀ alkane used in the present invention, the following reference name:
-Octadecane such as the commercial reference name "Parafol 18-97" sold by Sasol.

The esters of the present invention are solid at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure (10 ⁵ Pa).

  The fatty esters used in the compositions of the invention are preferably saturated fatty esters, ie esters of saturated carboxylic acids containing at least 6 carbon atoms and saturated fatty monoalcohols containing at least 12 carbon atoms. .

  The saturated acid or monoalcohol may be linear or branched. The saturated carboxylic acid preferably contains 6 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferentially 6 to 12 carbon atoms. These may optionally be hydroxylated.

  Saturated fatty monoalcohols preferably contain 12 to 24 carbon atoms, more particularly 16 to 24 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the solid esters are selected from esters of C _{6 to 12} fatty acids and C _{16 to 24} monoalcohol.

  More preferably, the fatty acid may be selected from heptanoic acid, caprylic acid, decanoic acid, lauric acid, or mixtures thereof, and the fatty alcohol may be selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof. .

  Mention may be made in particular of stearyl heptanoate.

  Such products are commercially available, for example, the product Tegosoft® sold by Evonik Goldschmidt.

  In a particularly preferred embodiment, the solid fatty substance is selected from octadecane, stearyl heptanoate, or a mixture thereof.

  The solid fatty substance can be present in a proportion of 1% to 25% by weight, preferably 5% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

  In one embodiment, the fatty phase may comprise 20% to 60% by weight, preferably 20% to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Additives In known manner, all compositions of the present invention contain one or more adjuvants common in the cosmetic and dermatological fields: hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents and / or thickeners; fillers; moisturizing agents Agents; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active ingredients; free radical scavengers; sequestering agents; antioxidants; preservatives; basifying or acidifying agents; fragrances; film-forming agents; Mixtures of these can be included. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in foundations.

  The composition according to the invention can advantageously comprise more than 0.1% by weight, in particular more than 3% by weight and indeed more than 5% by weight of adjuvants, based on the total weight of the composition.

  In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention can further comprise at least one filler.

  The filler can be present in the emulsion in a content ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion. In particular, talc, mica, silica, kaolin, starch, modified or non-modified boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, microcrystalline cellulose, powders composed of synthetic polymers such as polyethylene, polyester, polyamide, For example, sold under the trade name "Nylon", or polytetrafluoroethylene ("Teflon"), silicone elastomer powder coated with silicone resin, such as diphenyl dimethicone / vinyl diphenyl dimethicone / silsesquioxane crosspolymer, and Mention may be made of hydrophobic calcined silica, for example dimethylsilylated silica.

  For example, boron nitride is sold by Momentive performance materials under the reference name “Softouch boron nitride powder CC6058”.

  For example, hydrophobic calcined silica is, for example, degussa with the reference name `` Aerosil R812® '', Cabot with `` Cab-O-Sil TS-530® '' and degussa with the reference name `` `` Aerosil R972 (registered trademark) '' and `` Aerosil R974 (registered trademark) '', `` Cab-O-Sil TS-610 (registered trademark) '' and `` Cab-O-Sil TS-720 (registered trademark) '' by Cabot It is sold at.

  In a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic calcined silica is dimethylsilylated silica. For example, dimethylsilylated silica is sold under the name Aerosil R972® by Degussa.

  Aerosil silicon dioxide made by oxidizing vaporized silicon tetrachloride in a high temperature flame with hydrogen and oxygen and treating it with hydrophobation [Aerosil R972®] is of several importance Benefits are given to formulations and processes.

In fact, this is
-Gives thickening effect and thixotropy by dispersing in liquid material,
-Improve the possibility of pigment suspension,
-Strengthen the stability of large emulsion droplets,
-Ensure water bead release effect without any impact,
-Accelerate the emulsification process, shorten the batch time,
-Make the process easier.

  In one embodiment, the silicone elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin is a diphenyl dimethicone / vinyl diphenyl dimethicone / silsesquioxane crosspolymer.

  The silicone elastomer powder is coated with a silicone resin. According to one embodiment, the silicone resin may be, for example, a silsesquioxane resin as described in US5538793.

  For example, diphenyl dimethicone / vinyl diphenyl dimethicone / silsesquioxane crosspolymer is sold under the name KSP-300 by Shin-Etsu.

  In one embodiment, the silicone elastomer-coated silicone elastomer powder is, for example, non-emulsifying, in at least one embodiment spherical, and is present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be present in a content in the range of% by weight, for example in the range of 0.1% to 1% by weight.

  With regard to starch, mention may be made of starch aluminum octenyl succinate, modified or unmodified, sold under the name Dry Flo Plus by the company Akzo Nobel. In a preferred embodiment, the filler is selected from nitrogen boron, dimethylsilylated silica, diphenyl dimethicone / vinyl diphenyl dimethicone / silsesquioxane crosspolymer, starch aluminum octenyl succinate, or mixtures thereof.

  In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one pigment. With respect to pigments, they can be water-soluble coloring materials of plant, mineral or synthetic origin, pigments, brighteners and mixtures thereof.

  “Pigments” are white or colored, organic or inorganic, hydrophilic or hydrophobic non-interfering particles that are insoluble in aqueous and non-aqueous media and color the composition.

  Inorganic pigments usable in the present invention include oxides or dioxides of titanium, zirconium or cerium, and oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, Prussian blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and these Of the mixture.

  Organic pigments that can be used in the present invention include D & C pigments, cochineal carmine based lakes, and barium, strontium, calcium and aluminum based lakes, or diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP), which are described in the literature EP -A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96 / 08537.

  Advantageously, the pigments that can be used in the present invention are treated or untreated hydrophobic pigments.

  More specifically, inorganic pigments selected from titanium oxide and iron oxide (especially yellow, black and red) and treated with at least one hydrophobic substance are used.

  The pigments according to the invention are preferably surface-treated, in whole or in part, with hydrophobic substances, more specifically with fluoro, fatty acids or amino acids, or silicone compounds, or mixtures thereof.

  For example, hydrophobic treatment agents include fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum salts of aluminum dimyristate and hydrogenated tallow glutamic acid; perfluoroalkyl phosphates and polyhexafluoropropylene oxide; perfluoropolyethers; amino acids; N-acyls It may be selected from amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, and silicone compounds such as dimethicone or polydimethylsiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

  The hydrophobic treatment agent is preferably selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, polyhexafluoropropylene oxide, perfluoropolyethers, amino acids, N-acyl amino acids or salts thereof, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

  More preferably, the hydrophobic material is selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, N-acyl amino acids or salts thereof, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

  The surface treatment pigment may be prepared according to chemical, electronic, chemical mechanical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

  The surface agent may be absorbed or adsorbed onto the pigment by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and covalent bond formation.

  According to one variant, the surface treatment comprises a pigment coating.

  The coating may occupy 0.1-10% by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment, more specifically 1% -5% by weight.

  The coating is applied on the surface of the pigment, for example, by simply mixing the pigment and the surface agent with stirring, optionally under high temperature conditions, before introducing the pigment into the other components of the care or makeup composition. It can be carried out by adsorbing a liquid surface agent.

  The coating may be performed, for example, by chemically reacting the surface agent and the surface of the pigment to form a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigment. This method is specifically described in US Pat. No. 4,578,266.

Amino acid or fatty acid treatment agent Hydrophobic treatment agents include fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum salts of dimyristate aluminum and hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl titanate It may be selected from isostearyl (or referred to as ITT), and mixtures thereof.

  N-acylamino acids may include acyl groups having 8 to 22 carbon atoms such as, for example, 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl groups. The salt of these compounds may be an aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salt. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

  The fatty acid in the present invention is more specifically an acid having a hydrocarbon chain having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having 5 to 18 carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon chain may be saturated, monounsaturated or polyunsaturated.

  Examples of fatty acid coated pigments include those containing the disodium stearoyl glutamate / aluminum hydroxide pair, which are specifically traded by Miyoshi Kasei under the trade names NAI-TAO-77891, NAI-C33. -8073-10, NAI-C33-8075, NAI-C47-051-10, NAI-C33-115, NAI-C33-134, NAI-C33-8001-10, NAI-C33-7001-10, NAI-C33 It is sold at -9001-10.

  Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include the trade names BWBO-12 (Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWYO-12 (Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by Kobo. ) And BWRO-12 (Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate).

  Preferably, pigments coated with fatty acids such as those containing the disodium stearoyl glutamate / aluminum hydroxide pair are used in the present invention.

  Preferably, the pigments of the present invention, when present, are selected from pigments coated with fatty acids, such as those containing titanium oxide, a disodium stearoyl glutamate / aluminum hydroxide pair, or mixtures thereof.

  In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention may contain up to 18% by weight of pigment, based on the total weight of the composition.

  Likewise, the composition according to the invention can further comprise an active compound.

  Examples of active compounds that can be used in the composition of the present invention include humectants such as protein hydrolysates; vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), Vitamins such as vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (specifically esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; α-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid; and these And retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; sunscreens; essential oils of mint, aloe or ginseng and mixtures thereof; and ethylmenthan carboxamide.

  In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention can further comprise at least one active compound, which is ethylmenthane carboxamide.

  In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention may further comprise a chemical sunscreen such as any UV-A or UV-B sunscreen that can be used in the cosmetic field. The sunscreen (or UV sunscreen) can be selected from organic sunscreen, physical sunscreen and mixtures thereof, more specifically selected from ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, titanium dioxide or mixtures thereof. can do.

  The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one adjuvant selected from polymers such as starch aluminum octenyl succinate; preservatives such as phenoxyethanol; solvents such as glycerine; and various compounds.

  Of course, those skilled in the art will recognize that the optional properties added to the composition according to the invention may be detrimental or substantially detrimental to the advantageous properties inherently imparted to the composition according to the invention by the contemplated addition. The selection will be made so that it will not be adversely affected.

  The invention is explained in more detail in the following examples.

Example 1
Water-in-silicone emulsion foundations according to the present invention were prepared from the following compositions (Table 1A and Table 1B) (percentages are expressed in terms of mass by weight of the total composition and optionally active material percentage (MA ) Is shown for accuracy):

  The formulations listed above were prepared according to the following steps:

  Phase A was weighed together and heated to 80 ° C. with stirring using a Moritz stirrer until the phase was uniform.

  Phase B was heated to 80 ° C.

  Phase B was slowly added to Phase A with stirring using a Moritz-type stirrer and a minimum temperature of 75 ° C. was maintained during the addition.

  Subsequently, the formulations 1 to 4 of the present invention were each cast to obtain a uniform compact foundation, while the formulations 1 to 2 of the comparative example were filled in a tube to obtain a foundation product.

  In addition, each of the compositions 1 to 4 of the present invention was tested with a user. Ease of use of the compact foundations 1 to 4 obtained from the composition of the present invention and skin sensation such as water release effect, cooling effect, and melting effect were evaluated by 12 consumers. Each of the compact foundations 1 to 4 obtained from the above composition was applied to the inner forearm by 0.1 g. Consumers were required to observe the moisture release effect while applying the foundation, and at the same time were required to evaluate the cooling and melting effects.

  When comparing the area of skin treated with this emulsion to the untreated area, a large difference was observed between the two and the treated skin was better moisturized than the untreated skin.

  All prepared emulsions have good stability, i.e. the viscosity and bulk appearance are well maintained, but the stability of these emulsions is that of cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone in the emulsion. It was observed that the amount decreased with decreasing amount. Thus, the emulsion of composition 2 has better stability than the emulsion of composition 3, which has better stability than the emulsion of composition 4 which has only some moisture release on the surface of the emulsion.

Example 2
The stability, ease of use, and skin sensation of the inventive formulation and the comparative formulation were evaluated.

  The stability of the compositions of the inventive formulation and the comparative formulation was evaluated at 45 ° C., 37 ° C. and 4 ° C. for 8 weeks.

  In addition, each of the above-described blends of the present invention and the blends of the comparative examples were tested by the user. The stability, ease of use, and skin sensation such as moisture release effect, cooling effect, and melting effect of the formulation of the present invention and the comparative example were evaluated by 12 consumers. The object was applied to the inner forearm by 0.1 g. The consumer was asked to score the effect of the test subject. 5 is excellent, 4 is very good, 3 is normal, 2 is bad and cannot be used, 1 is poor. The results are as follows:

  It was observed that Formulations 1-4 of the present invention were easily cast as compact foundations due to their solid texture, allowing consumers to make up the skin using either one hand or an applicator. . This is very convenient for consumers in supplementing skin makeup during the day. On the other hand, the formulations 1 and 2 of the comparative example are contained in a tube due to the liquid texture and cannot be easily applied to the skin. This requires the consumer to apply with both hands.

  In terms of skin sensation, it was observed that the formulations of the present invention and the comparative formulations have good water bead release and cooling effects. Formulations 1-4 of the present invention, which were solid during application, changed to a liquid texture on the skin, so improved melting compared to Comparative Formulations 1 and 2 Has an effect.

  Finally, it was observed that the inventive formulation and the comparative formulation had good stability at different temperatures.

Claims (17)

A solid composition for the care and / or make-up of keratin materials in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion comprising a solid fatty phase and an aqueous phase,
(i) at least one silicone elastomer;
(ii) at least one dimethicone copolyol;
(iii) at least one (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl dimethicone;
(iv) at least one wax having a melting point of 60 ° C. or higher;
(v) C ₁₈ ~C ₃₀ alkanes, and at least one solid fatty substance chosen from solid esters, or mixtures of these fatty acids and fatty alcohols, composition.   The silicone elastomer is subjected to a cross-linking addition reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and a diorganopolysiloxane containing an ethylenically unsaturated group bonded to silicon. The composition according to claim 1, which is an elastically crosslinked organopolysiloxane which can be obtained. The dimethicone copolyol has the formula (I):

[Where
R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ are each independently a C _{1 to} C ₆ alkyl group or a-(CH ₂ ) _x- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _z -OR ₄ group. Wherein at least one of the R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ groups is not an alkyl group, R ₄ is hydrogen, a C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl group or a C ₂ -C ₄ acyl group,
A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50, provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time,
x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30,
z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5]
The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein The dimethicone copolyol of formula (I), wherein R ₁ = R ₃ = methyl group, x is an integer in the range of 2-6, and y is an integer in the range of 4-30. Composition. Said (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl dimethicone has the formula (IV):

[Where
- PE _{is, (- C 2 H 4 O} ) x - expressed from _{(C 3 H 6 O) y} -R group, select where R is an alkyl group containing a hydrogen atom and 1 to 4 carbon atoms X is an integer in the range of 0-100, and y is an integer in the range of 0-80, provided that x and y are not equal to 0 at the same time,
-m is an integer in the range of 1-40, n is an integer in the range of 10-200, o is an integer in the range of 1-100, and p is an integer in the range of 7-21 And q is an integer ranging from 0 to 4]
5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein The (C ₈ ~C ₂₂₎ alkyl dimethicone, cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone composition of claim 5.   Hydrocarbon waxes such as bees wax, carnauba, candelilla, aucrily or molasses, cork fiber or sugar cane wax, paraffin or lignite wax, microcrystalline wax, lanolin wax, montan 7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, selected from waxes, ozokerites, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, hydrogenated oils, fatty esters and glycerides.   8. The composition of claim 7, wherein the wax is candelilla, ozokerite, or a mixture thereof.   The wax is present in a proportion of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 5% by weight, in particular 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition as described in any one of these.   10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the solid fatty substance is selected from octadecane, stearyl heptanoate, or a mixture thereof.   The solid fatty substance is present in a proportion of 1% to 25% by weight, preferably 5% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition.   12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, further comprising at least one glycol, preferably wherein the glycol is selected from propylene glycol, pentylene glycol and any mixtures thereof.   13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, further comprising at least one filler.   14. The composition of claim 13, wherein the filler is selected from boron nitride, dimethylsilylated silica, diphenyl dimethicone / vinyl diphenyl dimethicone / silsesquioxane crosspolymer, starch aluminum octenyl succinate, and any mixture thereof. .   15. The composition of claim 1 to 14, wherein the composition further comprises a pigment selected from titanium oxide, a fatty acid, for example a pigment coated with a fatty acid containing a pair of disodium stearoyl glutamate / aluminum hydroxide, or a mixture thereof. The composition according to any one of the above.   16. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, preferably a foundation in the form of a compact powder or cast solid product.   17. A method for non-therapeutic care and / or makeup of a skin comprising applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 onto a keratin material.