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JP2018012899A - Fabric manufacturing method - Google Patents

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JP2018012899A
JP2018012899A JP2016143437A JP2016143437A JP2018012899A JP 2018012899 A JP2018012899 A JP 2018012899A JP 2016143437 A JP2016143437 A JP 2016143437A JP 2016143437 A JP2016143437 A JP 2016143437A JP 2018012899 A JP2018012899 A JP 2018012899A
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fabric
single yarn
cross
woven fabric
yarn
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JP6517172B2 (en
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小野寺 忠人
Tadahito Onodera
忠人 小野寺
肇 刀根
Hajime Tone
肇 刀根
河端 秀樹
Hideki Kawabata
秀樹 河端
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Toyobo STC Co Ltd
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Toyobo STC Co Ltd
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Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method of manufacturing a light fabric preferable for a side cloth of a down wear, a down jacket, a sleeping bag, a futon, and the like, having soft touch, and no skitteriness while keeping low permeability even after repeated wear, and laundry.SOLUTION: A method of manufacturing a fabric includes: weaving a fabric using a synthetic multifilament satisfying conditions (i)-(iii); thereafter dying, or printing; successively repellently finishing; and thereafter calendering to make a convexity of a multifoliate shape of a sectional plane of a single yarn of the synthetic multifilament contact a concavity a multifoliate shape of a sectional plane of a neighboring single yarn so as to bite each other, the conditions (i)-(iii) including: that (i) the single fiber fineness is 0.5-2.0 dtex, and the total fineness is 6-67 dtex; that (ii) the single yarn has a multifoliate shaped sectional plane formed by alternately continuing approximately same shaped round convexities and approximately same shaped round concavities, and the number of the convexities in the multifoliate shape is 5-10; and that (iii) the irregular shape degree of the multifoliate shape of the sectional plane of the single yarn is not less than 1.3 and not greater than 2.0.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

本発明は、イラツキ(光沢斑)がなく、ソフトで、洗濯後も低通気度を維持可能な織物であって、特に繰返しの着用や洗濯によるダウンや中ワタの吹き出しを抑制するダウンウェア、ダウンジャケット、寝袋、布団の側地に最適な織物の製造方法に関する。   The present invention is a fabric that is soft and free of irritation (glossy spots) and that can maintain a low air permeability even after washing. The present invention relates to a method for producing a woven fabric suitable for a jacket, a sleeping bag, and a futon side.

保温性を得るためのダウンウェアや寝袋、布団の側地は、軽量であることのほか、着用や洗濯によってダウンや中ワタの飛び出しのないことが求められる。この特性の評価方法には通気度があり、かかる用途の側地織物は1.5cm/cm・s以下の通気度であることが必要である。また、この通気度の値は、繰り返しの着用や洗濯に対しても保持されないと実用性に欠けることになる。これらの要件を満足するため一般には織物を高密度化するが、その結果、目付が増し、硬くなり、軽量性が得られにくくなり、またブライト糸を使用した織物の外観でもダル化し、発色性が得られにくくなるという不都合が生じる。 In addition to being lightweight, downwear, sleeping bags, and futon sides to obtain heat insulation are required to be free of down and medium cotton popping out when worn or washed. The evaluation method of this characteristic has air permeability, and the side fabric for such use needs to have an air permeability of 1.5 cm 3 / cm 2 · s or less. In addition, this air permeability value lacks practicality unless it is maintained even after repeated wearing and washing. In order to satisfy these requirements, the fabric is generally densified, but as a result, the fabric weight increases, it becomes hard, and it is difficult to obtain light weight. Inconvenience that it becomes difficult to obtain.

このような高密度化織物にすることなく、低通気度を維持するため、本発明者らは、織物に使用する単糸を、異形度2.0〜6.0でY字型断面或いは十字型断面を有する異形断面糸にすることを提案した(特許文献1参照)。しかしながら、特許文献1の織物は、断面形状の反射に起因するイラツキと、高い異形度からの曲げ剛性の硬さに起因する風合の硬さを有しており、それらの問題を解消する必要性があった。   In order to maintain a low air permeability without using such a densified woven fabric, the present inventors used a Y-shaped cross section or a cross as a single yarn used in the woven fabric with a deformity of 2.0 to 6.0. It has been proposed to use a modified cross-section yarn having a mold section (see Patent Document 1). However, the woven fabric of Patent Document 1 has the roughness due to the reflection of the cross-sectional shape and the hardness of the texture due to the hardness of the bending rigidity from the high degree of irregularity, and it is necessary to solve these problems There was sex.

特開2010−196213号公報JP 2010-196213 A

本発明は、かかる従来技術の問題を解消するために創案されたものであり、その目的は、ダウンウェア、ダウンジャケット、寝袋、布団などの側地に好適な織物の製造方法であって、繰り返しの着用後や洗濯後においても低通気度を保持しながら、イラツキがなく、ソフトな風合の織物を提供することにある。   The present invention was devised in order to solve the problems of the prior art, and the object thereof is a method for producing a woven fabric suitable for a side fabric such as a downwear, a down jacket, a sleeping bag, a futon, and the like. An object of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric having a soft texture without irritation while maintaining a low air permeability even after being worn or washed.

本発明者は、上記目的を達成するために、特に特許文献1の織物が有する洗濯後の低通気度の保持性を失うことなく、イラツキと風合の硬さを改善するために、鋭意検討した結果、特許文献1の織物のイラツキの発生や風合の硬さの原因が主に単糸の高い異形度と断面形状の凸部の数の少なさにあることを見出した。   In order to achieve the above-mentioned object, the present inventor has intensively studied in order to improve the hardness of irritability and texture without losing the low air permeability retention after washing, which the fabric of Patent Document 1 has. As a result, it has been found that the cause of the occurrence of roughness and texture of the fabric of Patent Document 1 is mainly due to the high degree of irregularity of the single yarn and the small number of convex portions having a cross-sectional shape.

即ち、イラツキについては、特許文献1では、カレンダー後の織物表面の単糸は、例えばY字型の断面の場合には3個の凸部のうち2個の凸部が押圧でほぼ平坦になり、正反射が増す形状に変化している(特許文献1の図2.図3参照)。このことから、平坦部は、単糸の異形度が高く、即ち凸部と凹部間の距離が長く、直線的であるほど異形度が増すことが認識される。織物中の糸の長さ方向の配置状態は、単糸間の乱れ、捩れ、組織点での屈曲、また、組織点間での糸の拘束力の強弱等により一様ではなく、平坦部の多い単糸形状ほど正反射部と乱反射部の箇所が多くなり、イラツキのある品位を呈するようになる。断面形状が丸くなっていくと、このような現象が殆ど伴わず、品位の良好な織物外観を呈する。   In other words, as for the unevenness, in Patent Document 1, the single yarn on the surface of the woven fabric after calendering, for example, in the case of a Y-shaped cross section, two of the three convex portions become almost flat by pressing. The shape is increased in regular reflection (see FIGS. 2 and 3 of Patent Document 1). From this, it is recognized that the flat part has a high degree of irregularity of the single yarn, that is, the distance between the convex part and the concave part is long, and the degree of irregularity increases as it is linear. The arrangement in the length direction of the yarn in the woven fabric is not uniform due to turbulence between single yarns, twisting, bending at the tissue points, and the strength of the yarn binding force between the tissue points, etc. As the number of single yarns increases, the number of regular reflection portions and irregular reflection portions increases, resulting in an irritating quality. As the cross-sectional shape becomes round, such a phenomenon hardly occurs and a good-quality fabric appearance is exhibited.

風合については、特許文献1では、単糸の異形度が高いほど凸部と凹部間の距離が長くなるため、単糸間の噛み合い構造が深く、堅固な構造になっている(特許文献1の図3参照)。この構造が洗濯後でも低通気度を保持する大きな理由であるが、噛み合いが堅固過ぎると、外力に抗する力として作用するため、硬さを感じさせる大きな要因になっている。単糸の断面形状を丸くし、細い繊度の織物にすると、この硬さがなくなりソフトな風合になる。   Regarding the texture, in Patent Document 1, since the distance between the convex part and the concave part becomes longer as the degree of deformity of the single yarn becomes higher, the meshing structure between the single yarns is deep and the structure is firm (Patent Document 1). FIG. 3). This structure is a major reason for maintaining a low air permeability even after washing, but if the meshing is too firm, it acts as a force against external forces, which is a major factor that makes you feel hardness. When the cross-sectional shape of a single yarn is rounded to make a finely woven fabric, this hardness is eliminated and a soft texture is obtained.

上記の検討結果から、本発明者は、まず使用する単糸を略同形状の丸みのある凸部と略同形状の丸みのある凹部が交互に連続して形成される多葉形状の横断面とし、凸部の数を多くして5〜10個、好ましくは5〜8個の凸部のある多葉断面にし、単糸同士が凸部と凹部で噛み合い易くし、さらに単糸の異形度を1.3以上2.0未満、好ましくは1.3以上1.9以下の低い値にすることによって凸部、凹部間の長さを短くし、更に必要により単糸の横断面の多葉形状の直線率を0以上0.30以下にして、カレンダー加工後の単糸の光の正反射を減少させてイラツキを解消した。そして、単糸間の噛み合いを浅くし、外力に対して噛み合い構造を失うことなく柔軟に動き易くすることによってソフト化し、風合の硬さを解消した。このような織物構造とすることで上記課題を解決するに至った。   From the above examination results, the present inventor firstly used a single yarn to be used as a multi-leaf-shaped cross section in which substantially rounded convex portions having substantially the same shape and rounded concave portions having substantially the same shape are alternately and continuously formed. The number of convex portions is increased to a multi-leaf cross section having 5 to 10, preferably 5 to 8, convex portions, so that the single yarns can be easily engaged with each other by the convex portions and the concave portions, and the deformity of the single yarn Is set to a low value of 1.3 or more and less than 2.0, preferably 1.3 or more and 1.9 or less, thereby shortening the length between the convex portions and the concave portions, and if necessary, the multi-leaf of the cross section of the single yarn The linearity of the shape was set to 0 or more and 0.30 or less, and the regular reflection of the light of the single yarn after the calendering process was reduced to eliminate the irritation. Then, the meshing between the single yarns was made shallower and softened by making it easy to move flexibly without losing the meshing structure against the external force, thereby eliminating the hardness of the texture. It came to solve the said subject by setting it as such a textile structure.

本発明は、上記の知見に基づいて完成したものであり、以下の(1)〜(6)の構成を有するものである。
(1)以下の(i)〜(iii)の条件を満足する合成マルチフィラメントを用いてカバーファクターが1450〜2100の織物を製織した後、染色または捺染を施し、次いで撥水仕上げを施した後、片面または両面にカレンダー加工を施し、合成マルチフィラメントの単糸の横断面の多葉形状の凸部が、隣接する単糸の横断面の多葉形状の凹部に噛み合うように接するようにしたことを特徴とする織物の製造方法。
(i)単糸繊度が0.5〜2.0dtexであり、総繊度が6〜67dtexである;
(ii)単糸は、略同形状の丸みのある凸部と略同形状の丸みのある凹部が交互に連続して形成される多葉形状の横断面を持ち、多葉形状における凸部の数が5〜10個である;
(iii)単糸の横断面の多葉形状の異形度(外接円の半径D/内接円の半径d)が1.3以上2.0未満である。
(2)以下の(iv)の条件をさらに満足する合成マルチフィラメントを用いることを特徴とする(1)に記載の織物の製造方法:
(iv)単糸の横断面の多葉形状の直線率L/Dが0以上0.30以下である、ここで直線率L/Dは、単糸の横断面の多葉形状における凸部の円弧と凹部の円弧を結ぶ直線の長さLと単糸の外接円の半径Dの比率を指す。
(3)用いる合成マルチフィラメントの単糸の横断面の多葉形状における凸部の数が5〜8個であることを特徴とする(1)又は(2)に記載の織物の製造方法。
(4)用いる合成マルチフィラメントの単糸の横断面の多葉形状の異形度が1.3以上1.9以下であることを特徴とする(1)〜(3)のいずれかに記載の織物の製造方法。
(5)用いる合成マルチフィラメントの単糸の横断面の多葉形状の直線率が0以上0.28以下であることを特徴とする(2)〜(4)のいずれかに記載の織物の製造方法。
(6)織物が、ダウンウェア、ダウンジャケット、寝袋、及び布団からなる群から選択されるいずれかの側地に使用されるものであることを特徴とする(1)〜(5)のいずれかに記載の織物の製造方法。
This invention is completed based on said knowledge, and has the structure of the following (1)-(6).
(1) After weaving a woven fabric having a cover factor of 1450-2100 using a synthetic multifilament that satisfies the following conditions (i) to (iii), dyeing or printing, and then water-repellent finishing , One or both sides were calendered so that the multi-lobed convex part of the cross section of the synthetic multifilament single yarn was in contact with the multi-lobed concave part of the cross section of the adjacent single yarn A method for producing a woven fabric characterized by the above.
(I) The single yarn fineness is 0.5 to 2.0 dtex, and the total fineness is 6 to 67 dtex;
(Ii) The single yarn has a multi-lobed cross section in which round-shaped convex portions having substantially the same shape and round-shaped concave portions having the same shape are alternately and continuously formed. The number is 5-10;
(Iii) The multi-leaf shape irregularity (radius D of circumscribed circle / radius d of inscribed circle) of the cross section of the single yarn is 1.3 or more and less than 2.0.
(2) The method for producing a woven fabric according to (1), wherein a synthetic multifilament that further satisfies the following condition (iv) is used:
(Iv) The linear rate L / D of the multi-leaf shape of the cross section of the single yarn is 0 or more and 0.30 or less, where the linear rate L / D is the convexity of the multi-leaf shape of the cross-section of the single yarn It refers to the ratio of the length L of the straight line connecting the arc and the arc of the recess to the radius D of the circumscribed circle of the single yarn.
(3) The method for producing a woven fabric according to (1) or (2), wherein the number of convex portions in the multi-leaf shape of the cross section of the single yarn of the synthetic multifilament used is 5 to 8.
(4) The woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (3), wherein the multi-leaf shape irregularity of the cross section of the single yarn of the synthetic multifilament used is 1.3 or more and 1.9 or less Manufacturing method.
(5) The production of the woven fabric according to any one of (2) to (4), wherein the linearity of the multileaf shape of the cross section of the single yarn of the synthetic multifilament used is 0 or more and 0.28 or less. Method.
(6) Any one of (1) to (5), wherein the woven fabric is used for any side selected from the group consisting of downwear, down jackets, sleeping bags, and futons. The manufacturing method of the textile fabric as described in any one of.

本発明の製造方法によれば、イラツキがなくソフトな風合で、過度な織物密度にしなくても繰返しの着用や洗濯でダウン漏れしにくい耐久性の良い織物が得られる。この織物は、ダウンウェア、ダウンジャケット、寝袋、布団等の側地に好適に用いることができる。   According to the production method of the present invention, it is possible to obtain a durable fabric that is soft and free from irritation, and that does not easily leak down due to repeated wearing or washing without excessive fabric density. This woven fabric can be suitably used for side fabrics such as downwear, down jackets, sleeping bags, and futons.

図1は、単糸の横断面の凹凸の存在状態、異形度、直線率を説明する図である。FIG. 1 is a diagram for explaining the presence / absence of irregularities in the cross section of a single yarn, the degree of irregularity, and the linearity. 図2a−2dは、本発明の単糸の横断面の形状例を示す。2a-2d show examples of the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn of the present invention. 図3a−3eは、本発明の範囲から外れる単糸の横断面の形状例(カレンダー加工後に平面的反射の多い横断面形状を呈する糸の例)を示す。3a to 3e show examples of cross-sectional shapes of single yarns (examples of yarns exhibiting a cross-sectional shape with many planar reflections after calendering) that fall outside the scope of the present invention. 図4a−4dは、本発明の製造方法のカレンダー加工前の織物中での一部の単糸の横断面の噛合い状態を示す。4a-4d show the meshing state of the cross section of some single yarns in the fabric before calendering of the production method of the present invention. 図5a−5eは、本発明の製造方法の範囲から外れるカレンダー加工前の織物中での一部の単糸の横断面の噛合い状態を示す。FIGS. 5a-5e show the cross-sectional engagement of some single yarns in a fabric before calendering that is outside the scope of the manufacturing method of the present invention. 図6aは、カレンダー加工前の織物中での一部の単糸の横断面の噛合い状態を示し、図6bは、図6aをカレンダー加工した後の織物中での一部の単糸の横断面の潰れ、噛合い状態を示し、表層と裏層の表面の単糸の横断面の凸部が潰れ、内層の単糸にそのような潰れがない状態を示す。Fig. 6a shows the cross-sectional engagement of some single yarns in the fabric before calendering, and Fig. 6b shows the crossing of some single yarns in the fabric after calendering Fig. 6a. The surface crushing and meshing state are shown, the convex portions of the cross section of the single yarn on the surface of the surface layer and the back layer are crushed, and the single yarn of the inner layer is not crushed. 図7aは、織物のイラツキのない品位を示す。FIG. 7a shows the garment-free quality. 図7bは、織物のイラツキのある品位を示す。FIG. 7b shows the irritated quality of the fabric.

本発明の織物の製造方法は、特定の合成マルチフィラメントを用いてカバーファクターが1450〜2100の織物を製織した後、染色または捺染を施し、次いで撥水仕上げを施した後、片面または両面にカレンダー加工を施し、単糸の横断面の多葉形状の凸部が、隣接する単糸の横断面の多葉形状の凹部に噛み合うように接することを特徴とする。   The method for producing a woven fabric according to the present invention is a method of weaving a woven fabric having a cover factor of 1450 to 2100 using a specific synthetic multifilament, dyeing or printing, then applying a water-repellent finish, and then calendering on one or both sides. Processing is performed, and the multi-lobed convex portion of the cross section of the single yarn is in contact with the multi-lobed concave portion of the cross section of the adjacent single yarn.

特に、本発明の製造方法で使用する合成マルチフィラメントは、以下の(i)〜(iii)、さらに所望により(iv)の条件を満足することを特徴とする。
(i)単糸繊度が0.5〜2.0dtexであり、総繊度が6〜67dtexである;
(ii)単糸は、略同形状の丸みのある凸部と略同形状の丸みのある凹部が交互に連続して形成される多葉形状の横断面を持ち、多葉形状における凸部の数が5〜10個である;
(iii)単糸の横断面の多葉形状の異形度(外接円の半径D/内接円の半径d)が1.3以上2.0未満である;
(iv)単糸の横断面の多葉形状の直線率L/Dが0以上0.30以下である、ここで直線率L/Dは、単糸の横断面の多葉形状における凸部の円弧と凹部の円弧を結ぶ直線の長さLと単糸の外接円の半径Dの比率を指す。
In particular, the synthetic multifilament used in the production method of the present invention is characterized by satisfying the following conditions (i) to (iii) and, if desired, (iv).
(I) The single yarn fineness is 0.5 to 2.0 dtex, and the total fineness is 6 to 67 dtex;
(Ii) The single yarn has a multi-lobed cross section in which round-shaped convex portions having substantially the same shape and round-shaped concave portions having the same shape are alternately and continuously formed. The number is 5-10;
(Iii) the multi-leaf shape irregularity (radius D of circumscribed circle / radius d of inscribed circle) of the cross section of the single yarn is 1.3 or more and less than 2.0;
(Iv) The linear rate L / D of the multi-leaf shape of the cross section of the single yarn is 0 or more and 0.30 or less, where the linear rate L / D is the convexity of the multi-leaf shape of the cross-section of the single yarn It refers to the ratio of the length L of the straight line connecting the arc and the arc of the recess to the radius D of the circumscribed circle of the single yarn.

本発明で使用する合成マルチフィラメントの単糸の横断面の多葉形状の異形度はカレンダー加工前で1.3以上2.0未満であることを特徴とする。異形度は、単糸の横断面の長径/短径(外接円の半径D/内接円の半径d)で表し、この値が小さいほど断面形状の凹部、凸部間の長さが短い。より好ましくは、異形度は1.3以上1.9以下である。異形度が上記範囲未満では、断面形状が円形に近くなり、隣接する単糸同士の噛み合いが弱くなり、洗濯後の低通気度保持性が悪化し、好ましくない。異形度が上記範囲を越えると、断面形状において凸部と凹部を結ぶ線が直線的になり易く、正反射する平面部が増し、イラツキ(光沢斑)が発生し易くなる。また、曲げに対する剛性が強くなり、ソフトさが得られにくくなり、好ましくない。異形度を上記の範囲に設定することにより、断面形状において凸部と凹部を結ぶ線が直線的になるのを避け、イラツキの原因になる正反射を少なくすることができる。同時に単糸間の噛み合いを浅くし、外力に対して噛み合いが外れない程度に柔軟に動き易くすることができ、風合をソフトにすることができる。   The multi-leaf shape irregularity of the cross section of the single yarn of the synthetic multifilament used in the present invention is 1.3 or more and less than 2.0 before calendering. The degree of irregularity is represented by the major axis / minor axis (radius D of circumscribed circle / radius d of inscribed circle) of the cross section of the single yarn, and the smaller the value, the shorter the length between the concave and convex portions of the cross section. More preferably, the degree of profile is 1.3 or more and 1.9 or less. If the degree of irregularity is less than the above range, the cross-sectional shape becomes nearly circular, the meshing between adjacent single yarns becomes weak, and the low air permeability retention after washing deteriorates, which is not preferable. When the degree of irregularity exceeds the above range, the line connecting the convex portion and the concave portion in the cross-sectional shape is likely to be linear, and the plane portion that is regularly reflected is increased, so that unevenness (glossy spots) is likely to occur. Moreover, the rigidity with respect to bending becomes strong, and it becomes difficult to obtain softness, which is not preferable. By setting the degree of irregularity in the above range, it is possible to avoid a straight line connecting the convex portion and the concave portion in the cross-sectional shape, and to reduce regular reflection that causes irritations. At the same time, the meshing between the single yarns can be made shallower, and it can be moved flexibly and easily so as not to disengage from the external force.

本発明で使用する合成マルチフィラメントの単糸は、略同形状の丸みのある凸部と略同形状の丸みのある凹部が交互に連続して形成される多葉形状の横断面を持ち、多葉形状における凸部の数が5〜10個であることを特徴とする。より好ましくは、多葉断面形状の凸部の数は5〜8個である。凹部の丸みは、凸部の丸みより大きいことが好ましい。凸部の数が上記範囲より少ない場合、隣接する単糸の噛み合い効果が弱くなり、その効果を高めようとすると高い異形度にする必要があり、結果として丸みの少ない直線的な形状になり、イラツキを生じさせてしまうため好ましくない。凸部の数が上記範囲より多い場合、断面形状が円形に近くなり、凹部、凸部の噛み合い効果が弱くなる。噛み合い効果を増すためにより高い異形度にすると紡糸性が困難となり、好ましくない。なお、楕円形が2個結合した繭型のような断面形状の場合には、凸部の数が少ないと凹凸の噛み合い効果が弱く、矩形型に凸部がある場合には、イラツキが解消せず、扁平型に複数個の凸部がある場合には、経筋状の織物品位となり、かつ強度の高い糸が得られにくく、本発明には適さない。また、丸みが凸部のみにあり、凹部に丸みがなく、直線的な形状をとる場合は、凹部凸部を結ぶ線が直線的かつ平面的になり、イラツキ軽減効果は得られにくい。   The synthetic multifilament single yarn used in the present invention has a multi-leaf-shaped cross section in which substantially convex rounded convex portions and substantially identical rounded concave portions are formed alternately and continuously. The number of convex portions in the leaf shape is 5 to 10. More preferably, the number of convex portions of the multilobal cross-sectional shape is 5-8. The roundness of the concave portion is preferably larger than the roundness of the convex portion. When the number of convex parts is less than the above range, the meshing effect of adjacent single yarns becomes weak, and it is necessary to make it highly irregular when trying to increase the effect, resulting in a linear shape with less roundness, This is not preferable because it causes irritation. When the number of convex portions is larger than the above range, the cross-sectional shape becomes nearly circular, and the meshing effect of the concave portions and convex portions is weakened. If the degree of profile is higher to increase the meshing effect, spinnability becomes difficult, which is not preferable. In the case of a cross-sectional shape like a saddle shape in which two ellipses are joined, if the number of convex parts is small, the effect of engaging the concaves and convexes is weak, and if the rectangular type has convex parts, the irritation can be solved. However, when the flat type has a plurality of convex portions, it becomes a warp-like woven fabric quality and it is difficult to obtain a high-strength yarn, which is not suitable for the present invention. In addition, when the roundness is only on the convex portion and the concave portion is not round and has a linear shape, the line connecting the concave and convex portions becomes linear and planar, and it is difficult to obtain the effect of reducing irritations.

本発明のように、単糸の断面形状を低異形度で凸部の数を多めにした丸みのある凹凸からなる多葉断面形状にすることにより、光の乱反射部を多くすることができ、イラツキ品位を解消することができる。さらに、同時に凹部の丸みを凸部より大きくすると、単糸同士が噛み合い易く、低異形度のためにカレンダー加工後の単糸同士の噛み合いは深くならず、外力に対して噛み合い構造を失うことなく柔軟に動き易くなる。このため、洗濯後でも低通気度を保持し易く、ソフトな風合が得られ易くなる。   Like the present invention, by making the cross-sectional shape of a single yarn into a multi-leaf cross-sectional shape consisting of rounded irregularities with a low degree of irregularity and a large number of convex portions, it is possible to increase the number of irregular reflection parts of light, Irritating quality can be eliminated. Furthermore, if the roundness of the concave portion is made larger than the convex portion at the same time, the single yarns can be easily engaged with each other, and the single yarns after calendering are not deeply meshed due to the low profile, so that the meshing structure against external force is not lost. It becomes flexible and easy to move. For this reason, it is easy to maintain a low air permeability even after washing, and a soft texture is easily obtained.

ここで、イラツキの現象は、単糸に平坦部があると光が正反射し、平坦部の巾不同や単糸の長さ方向の捩れや屈曲、交絡の強弱があると光の反射の度合が不規則に変わり、それに伴って生地全体の光沢感が均一ではなくなり、光沢斑状になりイラついたように見える現象を指す。図7aは、イラツキがなく品位の良好な織物例を示し、図7bは、イラツキがあり、品位不良な織物例を示す。両図において、上下方向が経糸で、左右方向が緯糸を示す。図7aでは経糸と緯糸の単糸が整然と配置されているのが読み取れるが、図7bでは経緯の単糸の読み取りは困難である。このような経糸、緯糸に見られる数多くの単糸の微細な乱れがイラツキ品位の原因である。本発明の織物は、単糸の異形度と断面形状の範囲を特定のものにすることによって、単糸側面に曲面部を多くすることで乱反射の度合を増すようにし、このようなイラツキのない高い品位を達成したものである。   Here, the phenomenon of irritations is that when a single yarn has a flat portion, the light is regularly reflected, and when the flat portion has the same width, the length of the single yarn is twisted or bent, or the strength of the entanglement is strong, the degree of reflection of light. Changes irregularly, and the glossiness of the entire fabric is not uniform, and it is a phenomenon that looks glossy and irritated. FIG. 7a shows an example of a fabric with good quality without irritation, and FIG. 7b shows an example of a fabric with irritation and poor quality. In both figures, the vertical direction is the warp and the horizontal direction is the weft. In FIG. 7a, it can be read that the warp and weft single yarns are arranged in an orderly manner, but in FIG. 7b, it is difficult to read the warp and single yarns. The fine disturbance of many single yarns found in such warps and wefts is the cause of irritating quality. In the woven fabric of the present invention, the degree of irregular reflection is increased by increasing the degree of irregular reflection by increasing the curved surface portion on the side surface of the single yarn by making the range of the irregularity degree and cross-sectional shape of the single yarn specific. High quality has been achieved.

本発明の製造方法では、織物の片面または両面にカレンダー加工を施した結果、合成マルチフィラメントの単糸の多葉断面形状の凸部が、隣接する単糸の多葉断面形状の凹部に噛み合うように接することを特徴とする。ダウンウェア、ダウンジャケットなどの織物は、着用時や洗濯時の揉み、擦れに対して織物中の糸が動きにくいことが必要で、一般にハイマルチフィラメントを使用した低密度織物ではメヨレし易い。これを防ぐ方法として、本発明の製造方法で使用する合成マルチフィラメントを構成する単糸の断面形状を、前述したように従来より低い異形度で多めの数の凸部を有する丸い凸部と凹部からなる多葉断面形状とし、単糸の断面形状の凸部が隣接する単糸の断面形状の凹部に噛み合う構造とすることが必要である。但し、過度な噛み合い構造とすることは、外力に抗する力が強く作用して曲げ硬くなり、風合のソフト化の障害になる。本発明の織物では、外力に対し、柔軟に動くが噛み合いが外れない程度の構造を実現することが好ましい。本発明の製造方法におけるカレンダー加工前の織物の好ましい単糸同士の横断面の噛み合い状態例を図4a−4dに示す。図4aは実施例2、図4bは実施例5、図4cは実施例8、図4dは実施例11の単糸同士の噛合い状態を示す。また、不適正な単糸同士の噛合い状態を図5a−5eに示す。図5a−5cは高異形度で直線率が高く、イラツキ品位を呈し、単糸同士の噛み合いが深く、硬風合となる形状例である。図5aは比較例1、図5bは比較例2、図5cは比較例3の単糸同士の噛合い状態を示す。図5dは低異形度であるが、直線率が高く、カレンダー加工で潰れ易く、イラツキ品位を呈し易い形状例である(比較例4)。図5eは丸断面であり、品位は良く、ソフトであるが、織物が揉まれると単糸同士が分離し易く、洗濯後の低通気度保持性が芳しくない形状例(比較例5)である。   In the production method of the present invention, as a result of calendering one or both sides of the woven fabric, the convex portion of the multi-leaf cross-sectional shape of the single yarn of the synthetic multifilament meshes with the concave portion of the multi-leaf cross-sectional shape of the adjacent single yarn. It is characterized by touching. Fabrics such as downwear and down jackets require that the yarns in the fabric do not move easily against stagnation and rubbing during wearing and washing, and are generally easy to sew with low density fabrics using high multifilaments. As a method for preventing this, the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn constituting the synthetic multifilament used in the production method of the present invention is, as described above, round convex portions and concave portions having a higher number of convex portions with a lower degree of irregularity than conventional ones. It is necessary to have a structure in which the convex portion of the single yarn cross-sectional shape meshes with the adjacent concave portion of the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn. However, if an excessive meshing structure is used, a force that resists external force acts strongly and becomes stiff and becomes an obstacle to softening of the texture. In the woven fabric of the present invention, it is preferable to realize a structure that moves flexibly but does not disengage from external forces. Examples of meshing states of cross sections of preferable single yarns of the woven fabric before calendering in the production method of the present invention are shown in FIGS. 4a shows the second embodiment, FIG. 4b shows the fifth embodiment, FIG. 4c shows the eighth embodiment, and FIG. Moreover, the meshing state of the improper single yarns is shown in FIGS. FIGS. 5a to 5c are examples of shapes that have a high degree of profile, a high linearity, an irritating quality, a deep mesh between the single yarns, and a hard texture. 5a shows the meshing state of the single yarns of Comparative Example 1, FIG. 5b shows the Comparative Example 2, and FIG. 5c shows the Comparative Example 3. FIG. 5d shows an example of a shape that has a low degree of profile but has a high linearity, is easily crushed by calendar processing, and easily exhibits an irregular quality (Comparative Example 4). FIG. 5e is a round cross-section, good quality and soft, but is a shape example (Comparative Example 5) in which single yarns are easily separated from each other when the woven fabric is woven, and the low air permeability retention after washing is not good. .

本発明で使用する合成マルチフィラメントの単糸繊度は0.5〜2.0dtexであることを特徴とする。より好ましくは、単糸繊度は0.6〜1.9dtexである。単糸繊度が上記範囲未満では、低異形度であっても、紡糸で糸切れし、毛羽を生じ易く、製糸が困難になる。上記範囲超では、風合が硬くなり、好ましくない。単糸繊度と低異形度、凸部の数の相乗効果で低通気度とその耐久性が得られると同時に、イラツキの解消とソフトな風合が得られる。単糸が5〜6葉からなる断面形状の場合、凹部、凸部、及びそれを結ぶ線上部に曲面を多く設けることができるため、異形度は前述の範囲の中でも1.4〜2.0、好ましくは1.4〜1.9と大きくすることができる。異形度を大きくすることで曲面部は平坦になり易く、その結果生じる正反射を抑制するため、単糸繊度は0.5〜1.3dtexと細くすることが好ましい。単糸が8〜10葉からなる断面形状の場合、曲面部は5〜6葉からなる断面形状より多くなるため乱反射が得られ易くなり、単糸繊度の範囲を0.5〜2.0dtexまで広げることができる。8〜10葉からなる断面形状の場合、乱反射が6〜8葉からなる断面形状より得られ易いため、異形度を1.3〜1.7に下げることができる。この場合、単糸繊度は0.5〜2.0dtexとすることが好ましい。   The single yarn fineness of the synthetic multifilament used in the present invention is 0.5 to 2.0 dtex. More preferably, the single yarn fineness is 0.6 to 1.9 dtex. When the single yarn fineness is less than the above range, even if the degree of profile is low, yarn is broken by spinning, fluff is likely to occur, and yarn production becomes difficult. If it exceeds the above range, the texture becomes hard, which is not preferable. Low air permeability and durability can be obtained by a synergistic effect of single yarn fineness, low profile, and the number of convex portions, and at the same time, elimination of irritation and soft texture can be obtained. In the case where the single yarn has a cross-sectional shape composed of 5 to 6 leaves, a large number of curved surfaces can be provided on the concave portion, the convex portion, and the upper portion of the line connecting the concave portion, so that the degree of irregularity is 1.4 to 2.0 in the above range. , Preferably it can be enlarged as 1.4-1.9. By increasing the degree of irregularity, the curved surface portion is likely to be flat, and in order to suppress the resulting regular reflection, it is preferable to make the single yarn fineness as thin as 0.5 to 1.3 dtex. When the single yarn has a cross-sectional shape composed of 8 to 10 leaves, the curved surface portion becomes larger than the cross-sectional shape composed of 5 to 6 leaves, so that irregular reflection is easily obtained, and the range of the single yarn fineness is 0.5 to 2.0 dtex. Can be spread. In the case of a cross-sectional shape composed of 8 to 10 leaves, irregular reflection can be easily obtained from a cross-sectional shape composed of 6 to 8 leaves, so that the degree of irregularity can be lowered to 1.3 to 1.7. In this case, the single yarn fineness is preferably 0.5 to 2.0 dtex.

本発明で使用する合成マルチフィラメントの単糸の横断面の多葉形状の直線率L/Dは0以上0.30以下であることが好ましい。ここで直線率L/Dは、単糸の横断面の多葉形状における凸部の円弧と凹部の円弧を結ぶ直線の長さLと単糸の外接円の半径Dの比率を指す(図1参照)。直線率は0であることが最善である。つまり、単糸の横断面の凸部と凹部が曲線で繋がっているのが最善であり、0.3以下であることが好ましく、より好ましくは0.28以下である。上記範囲を超えると、直線部が増えて正反射が増し、イラツキを生じ易い。カレンダー加工で潰された後の単糸の横断面の多葉形状は、凸部と凹部の繋がりが曲線的であるほど直線的になりにくく、乱反射を得やすく、イラツキ品位を解消し易い。直線率は異形度を低くすると下がる傾向にあるが、低異形度でも直線率が高い形状もあり(比較例4)、本発明の範囲の形状とすることが好ましい。   The multi-leaf shape linearity L / D of the cross section of the single yarn of the synthetic multifilament used in the present invention is preferably 0 or more and 0.30 or less. Here, the straight line ratio L / D refers to the ratio of the length L of the straight line connecting the arc of the convex portion and the arc of the concave portion in the multi-leaf shape of the cross section of the single yarn to the radius D of the circumscribed circle of the single yarn (FIG. 1). reference). It is best that the linear rate is zero. That is, it is best that the convex portion and the concave portion of the cross section of the single yarn are connected by a curve, preferably 0.3 or less, more preferably 0.28 or less. When the above range is exceeded, the straight line portion increases, regular reflection increases, and irritation tends to occur. The multi-leaf shape of the cross section of the single yarn after being crushed by calendering is less likely to be linear as the connection between the convex portion and the concave portion is curvilinear, and it is easy to obtain irregular reflection, and to easily eliminate the irritation quality. Although the linearity ratio tends to decrease when the degree of deformity is lowered, there is a shape with a high degree of linearity even with a low degree of irregularity (Comparative Example 4), and it is preferable to have a shape within the scope of the present invention.

本発明で使用する合成マルチフィラメントの単糸の素材は、特に限定されないが、ナイロンまたはポリエステルが好適に用いられる。ナイロンは、6ナイロン、66ナイロンでよく、ポリエステルは、モノポリマーまたはコポリマーであってもよい。また、ケミカルリサイクル糸やマテリアルリサイクル糸であってもよい。ナイロンの相対粘度(RV)は、2.5〜3.5が好ましい。より好ましくは2.8〜3.5であり、更には好ましくは3.0〜3.5である。ポリエステルの相対粘度(RV)は、0.6〜1.0が好ましい。より好ましくは、0.6〜0.9である。相対粘度が上記範囲未満では、糸のシャープな断面形状が得られにくく、強力が弱くなりやすい。上記範囲超では、紡糸性が得られにくい。本発明で使用する合成マルチフィラメントの単糸は、低異形度であり、高異形度用に必要な高RVでなくても多葉断面形状は得られやすく、またカレンダー加工における変形性や噛み合い効果が促進され易く、温度、加圧条件を強くしなくても、少ないカレンダー回数で低通気度とその安定耐久性が得られやすい。弱いカレンダー条件によって織物の引裂き強力の低下も軽減でき、また撥水剤に柔軟剤を併用することで織物の引裂き強力を増すことが可能である。   The material of the synthetic multifilament single yarn used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but nylon or polyester is preferably used. The nylon may be 6 nylon, 66 nylon, and the polyester may be a monopolymer or copolymer. Also, chemical recycled yarn or material recycled yarn may be used. The relative viscosity (RV) of nylon is preferably 2.5 to 3.5. More preferably, it is 2.8-3.5, More preferably, it is 3.0-3.5. The relative viscosity (RV) of the polyester is preferably 0.6 to 1.0. More preferably, it is 0.6-0.9. If the relative viscosity is less than the above range, it is difficult to obtain a sharp cross-sectional shape of the yarn, and the strength tends to be weak. Above the above range, spinnability is difficult to obtain. The single yarn of the synthetic multifilament used in the present invention has a low profile, and it is easy to obtain a multi-leaf cross-sectional shape even if it is not the high RV required for high profile, and the deformability and meshing effect in calendering Therefore, it is easy to obtain a low air permeability and its stable durability with a small number of calendars without increasing the temperature and pressure conditions. A weak calender condition can reduce the decrease in tear strength of the fabric, and the tear strength of the fabric can be increased by using a softener in combination with the water repellent.

単糸には、必要に応じて、ブライト糸、または酸化チタン、カオリン、カーボンブラック等の顔料等を含有していてもよい。   The single yarn may contain a bright yarn or a pigment such as titanium oxide, kaolin, or carbon black, if necessary.

本発明で使用する合成マルチフィラメントは、上述の特徴を有する単糸からなるものである。合成マルチフィラメントの総繊度は、6〜67dtexである。より好ましくは、8〜56dtexである。総繊度が上記範囲未満では、紡糸が困難となり、上記範囲超では、目付が増し、軽量性に欠け、用途的に相応しなくなる。   The synthetic multifilament used in the present invention consists of a single yarn having the above-mentioned characteristics. The total fineness of the synthetic multifilament is 6 to 67 dtex. More preferably, it is 8-56 dtex. If the total fineness is less than the above range, spinning becomes difficult, and if it exceeds the above range, the basis weight increases, the lightness is lacking, and it is not suitable for use.

合成マルチフィラメントの特性としては、製織性や製品の引裂き強力等を考慮し、破断強度が4.2〜6.0cN/dtex、破断伸度が28〜50%であることが好ましい。破断強度がその範囲を超えると糸の配向、結晶化が進み、風合が硬化し、好ましくない。それ以下では織物の引裂き強力が得られにくくなり、好ましくない。破断伸度はその範囲を超えると整経、製織時の張力で簡単に伸ばされて回復が弱くなり、経筋や緯引け、緯ムラの原因になり好ましくない。それ以下では特に経糸では製織時の張力変動を吸収できず糸切れしやすくなり、好ましくない。交絡度は、5〜30ヶ/mが好ましく、更には5〜20ヶ/mであることが好ましい。交絡度が多過ぎると織物に交絡が残り、交絡のない所と光の反射の差を生じ、イラツキ(光沢斑)の原因となりうる。それ以下では整経時の扱きで開繊し易く、毛羽立ち易く、製織性を悪化させ、好ましくない。   As characteristics of the synthetic multifilament, it is preferable that the breaking strength is 4.2 to 6.0 cN / dtex and the breaking elongation is 28 to 50% in consideration of weaving property, tear strength of the product, and the like. If the breaking strength exceeds the range, the orientation and crystallization of the yarn proceeds and the texture is hardened, which is not preferable. Below that, it becomes difficult to obtain the tear strength of the fabric, which is not preferable. When the elongation at break exceeds the range, it is easily stretched by the tension during warping and weaving, and the recovery becomes weak, which causes undesirable warp, weft shrinkage and weft unevenness. Below that, warp yarns are not preferred, especially because they cannot absorb the fluctuations in tension during weaving and tend to break. The degree of entanglement is preferably 5 to 30 / m, and more preferably 5 to 20 / m. If the degree of entanglement is too high, entanglement will remain in the fabric, resulting in a difference in light reflection from that where there is no entanglement, which may cause irritation (glossy spots). If it is less than that, it is unfavorable because it is easy to open by handling during aging, easily fluffs, deteriorates the weaving property.

本発明の織物は、上述のように合成マルチフィラメントで製織されるが、その形態は、フィラメント糸または仮撚加工糸である。仮撚加工糸は、POYを延伸仮撚するDTY、及びSDY(スピンドロー糸)をフリクション仮撚り、またはピン仮撚して得られる加工糸の形態で用いることができる。シャープな異形度や断面形状を得る目的で仮撚り温度を通常より10〜20℃低く、また仮撚数を10〜30%少なくした仮撚条件で得た加工糸(ハーフテクスチャードヤーン)を使用することも可能である。その際、仮撚速度を通常より10〜30%遅くして捲縮性を付与することも可能である。仮撚加工糸は捲縮保持性に優れることから、ナイロンでは66ナイロンの使用が好ましく、ポリエステルではホモポリマーポリエステルの使用が好ましい。   The woven fabric of the present invention is woven with a synthetic multifilament as described above, and its form is a filament yarn or false twisted yarn. The false twisted yarn can be used in the form of a processed yarn obtained by friction false twisting or pin false twisting of DTY for stretching and false twisting POY and SDY (spin draw yarn). For the purpose of obtaining sharp deformity and cross-sectional shape, use processed yarn (half textured yarn) obtained under false twisting conditions with false twisting temperature 10-20 ° C lower than normal and false twist number reduced 10-30% It is also possible to do. At that time, it is also possible to impart crimpability by making the false twisting speed 10-30% slower than usual. Since false twisted yarn is excellent in crimp retention, nylon is preferably 66 nylon, and polyester is preferably homopolymer polyester.

本発明で使用する合成マルチフィラメントの単糸は、仮撚加撚工程を経ることで単糸同士の噛合いが強制的に行われるため、仮撚前より単糸同士の噛合いの多い単糸構造になる。しかしながら、その度合は、高異形度の糸の場合より堅固ではないため捲縮性やソフト風合を得易く、好ましい構造になる。仮撚加工糸の伸縮復元率は15〜40%であることが好ましく、更には20〜35%が好ましい。この範囲を外れると仮撚数が多いため多葉断面の形状が大きく変形し過ぎ、仮撚工程で毛羽や糸切れが多発し、生産に適さず、かつ単糸同士の凹凸の噛合いが堅固になり、硬風合の原因になりうる。   The single yarn of the synthetic multifilament used in the present invention is forced to engage with each other by passing through a false twisting process, so that the single yarn having more engagement between the single yarns than before the false twisting. Become a structure. However, the degree thereof is less firm than that of a highly deformed yarn, so that it is easy to obtain crimpability and soft feel, and a preferable structure is obtained. The expansion / contraction restoration rate of the false twisted yarn is preferably 15 to 40%, and more preferably 20 to 35%. If the number of false twists is outside this range, the shape of the cross-section of the multi-leafed leaf will be excessively deformed due to a large number of false twists, and fuzz and yarn breaks will frequently occur in the false twisting process. And can cause a hard texture.

本発明の織物の目付は、18〜70g/mであることが好ましい。より好ましくは、20〜60g/mである。目付が上記範囲未満では、細い繊度の糸を用いる必要があり、実用的な引裂強力を有する織物が得られにくい。上記範囲超では、軽量性に欠き、登山、トレッキング等ではリュック梱包には嵩張り、好ましくない。 It is preferable that the fabric weight of the fabric of the present invention is 18 to 70 g / m 2 . More preferably, it is 20-60 g / m < 2 >. When the basis weight is less than the above range, it is necessary to use a yarn having a fine fineness, and it is difficult to obtain a fabric having a practical tear strength. If it exceeds the above range, it is lacking in light weight, and mountain climbing, trekking, etc. are bulky in the backpack packaging, which is not preferable.

本発明の織物の組織としては、無地感と軽量性からヒラ組織が好ましく、柄感と引裂き強力に優れることからリップストップ等が好ましい。また、本発明の織物の生機のヒラ部(リップストップ組織においても)のカバーファクターは、1450〜2100である。より好ましくは1500〜2000である。ここで、カバーファクターは、実施例に記載の方法で測定される。カバーファクターが上記範囲未満では、メヨレし易くなり好ましくない。上記範囲超では、風合が硬くなり好ましくなく、また、ブライト糸においては過度の密度では光の透過が妨げられてダル化し、鮮明色を失いやすい。本発明においては、使用する合成マルチフィラメントの単糸の断面形状が丸断面糸とは異なり滑脱しにくく、過度に高密度とする必要がない。リップストップ組織においては、リップ部を除いたヒラ部のカバーファクターが上記の範囲内にあることが好ましい。製織は、細繊度のダウンプルーフ高密度織物用に一般的なウォータージェットによることが好ましいが、エアジェット、レピア等でもよい。仕上げ後の織物のカバーファクターはソフト風合を得る目的から1500〜2200とすることが好ましい。   As the texture of the woven fabric of the present invention, a flat texture is preferred from the viewpoint of plainness and light weight, and a ripstop is preferred because it is excellent in handle feeling and tearing strength. Moreover, the cover factor of the heel part (even in the ripstop structure) of the woven fabric machine of the present invention is 1450 to 2100. More preferably, it is 1500-2000. Here, the cover factor is measured by the method described in Examples. If the cover factor is less than the above range, it is not preferable because it tends to fray. If it exceeds the above range, the texture becomes hard, which is not preferable, and in the bright yarn, if the density is excessive, transmission of light is hindered and dulls, and a clear color tends to be lost. In the present invention, unlike the round cross-section yarn, the cross-sectional shape of the synthetic multifilament single yarn used is difficult to slip and does not need to be excessively dense. In the ripstop structure, it is preferable that the cover factor of the heel portion excluding the lip portion is within the above range. The weaving is preferably carried out by a water jet which is common for down-proof high density fabrics with fineness, but may be air jet, rapier or the like. The cover factor of the finished fabric is preferably 1500 to 2200 for the purpose of obtaining a soft feel.

本発明の織物の染色仕上げは、ダウンプルーフ織物の一般的な工程で行えばよく、例えば連続糊抜き精練した後、乾燥セット、液流染色機やジッガー染色機による染色、捺染を行い、撥水剤等の仕上げ剤を付与し、カレンダー加工を行って仕上げる。いずれの形態の織物も同様の工程が採用され、染色条件は素材に応じたものを選択すればよい。但し、仮撚加工糸織物のジッガー染色は、伸縮性を失うため避けて、液流染色で染色することが好ましい。織物には、フッ素系、シリコン系やパラフィン系の撥水剤のほか、柔軟剤、帯電防止剤、吸水(親水)剤や抗菌防臭剤等の仕上げ剤が付与されていてもよい。   The fabric of the present invention may be dyed and finished by a general process of down-proof fabric. For example, after continuous scouring and scouring, it is dyed and printed by a drying set, a liquid dyeing machine or a jigger dyeing machine, and water-repellent. A finishing agent such as an agent is applied and finished by calendering. The same process is adopted for any form of fabric, and the dyeing conditions may be selected according to the material. However, jigger dyeing of false twisted yarn fabric is preferably avoided because it loses stretchability, and dyeing with liquid flow dyeing is preferred. In addition to fluorine-based, silicon-based, and paraffinic water repellents, the fabric may be provided with finishing agents such as softeners, antistatic agents, water-absorbing (hydrophilic) agents, and antibacterial deodorants.

本発明の織物は、その片面又は両面にカレンダー加工を施される。カレンダー加工の回数は、1回のみでも複数回でもよい。カレンダー加工の温度や圧力の条件は、従来公知の条件を採用すればよい。例えば、カレンダー条件は、ナイロン織物では200℃を上限に、ポリエステル織物では220℃を上限に、織物構成(単糸の形状や繊度、総繊度、織物のカバーファクターや組織)、通気度、引裂き強力、風合等を考慮して、加圧力、加工速度、回数等を調整しながら設定する。   The fabric of the present invention is calendered on one or both sides. The number of calendar processes may be only once or multiple times. Conventionally known conditions may be employed for the calendering temperature and pressure conditions. For example, the calendar condition is 200 ° C. for nylon woven fabric and 220 ° C. for polyester woven fabric, the fabric composition (single yarn shape and fineness, total fineness, fabric cover factor and structure), air permeability, tear strength In consideration of the texture, etc., the pressure, machining speed, number of times, etc. are adjusted.

ナイロン6織物やコポリエステル織物の好ましいカレンダー加工条件は、温度が190〜130℃、加圧力が0.98MPa〜4.90MPa、速度が10〜30m/分であり、ナイロン66やホモポリエステル織物では上述条件のうち加工温度のみ220℃まで範囲を広げて加工することが可能である。カレンダーの材質は片方のロールは金属製で、もう一方のロールを金属製、ペーパー製、コットン製、樹脂製のいずれかとすることが好ましい。本発明においては、加圧力が過度になり過ぎると単糸形状が平坦になり過ぎ、イラツキや引裂き強力低下の要因になるため、穏やかな条件で回数を増やして目標の低通気度、風合を得るようにすることが好ましい。   The preferable calendering conditions for nylon 6 fabric and copolyester fabric are a temperature of 190 to 130 ° C., a pressure of 0.98 MPa to 4.90 MPa, and a speed of 10 to 30 m / min. It is possible to process by expanding the range up to 220 ° C. only in the processing temperature. As for the material of the calendar, it is preferable that one roll is made of metal and the other roll is made of metal, paper, cotton, or resin. In the present invention, if the pressure force is excessive, the single yarn shape becomes too flat, which causes a reduction in irritation and tearing strength.Therefore, increase the number of times under mild conditions to reduce the target low air permeability and texture. It is preferable to obtain.

本発明の製造方法で得られる織物の滑脱抵抗力は、JIS1096 8.23B法により、荷重117N下で0.8mm以上、3mm以下であり、更には1.0mm以上、2.5mm以下であることができる。上記範囲超ではリュックの重さ、岩等による擦れ、洗濯中の絡み等でメヨレが生じ易くなる。上記範囲未満はカバーファクターを増す、また、硬め仕上げ剤付与等で得られるが、このことにより硬風合化、鮮明色を喪失することになりうる。   The sliding resistance of the fabric obtained by the production method of the present invention is 0.8 mm or more and 3 mm or less under a load of 117 N according to JIS1096 8.23B method, and further 1.0 mm or more and 2.5 mm or less. Can do. Exceeding the above range, it becomes easy to cause a fray due to the weight of the backpack, rubbing with rocks, entanglement during washing, and the like. If it is less than the above range, the cover factor is increased, and it can be obtained by applying a hard finish, etc., but this can result in loss of hard texture and clear color.

また、本発明の製造方法で得られる織物は、フラジール形法で、洗濯前の初期値で、1.5cc/cm・s以下、好ましくは1.0cc/cm/s以下の通気度を達成することができる。洗濯前の通気度が上記範囲以下であれば、ダウンプルーフの側地として好適である。また、本発明の織物は、フラジール形法で、洗濯10回後で、2.0cc/cm・s以下、好ましくは1.5cc/cm・s以下の通気度を達成することができる。洗濯10回後の通気度が上記範囲であれば、洗濯中の織物からのダウン抜けが起こることがなく、洗濯耐久性に優れていると言える。 The fabric obtained by the production method of the present invention is a fragile method, and has an air permeability of 1.5 cc / cm 2 · s or less, preferably 1.0 cc / cm 2 / s or less as an initial value before washing. Can be achieved. If the air permeability before washing is below the above range, it is suitable as a down proof side. Also, fabrics of the present invention is the Frazier method, after washing 10 times, 2.0cc / cm 2 · s or less, preferably to achieve the following air permeability 1.5cc / cm 2 · s. If the air permeability after 10 washings is in the above range, it can be said that the fabric does not fall out from the fabric being washed and is excellent in washing durability.

さらに、本発明の織物は、前述したように特許文献1が持つ単糸の断面形状に起因するイラツキや高い異形度に起因する曲げ剛性の硬さを解消しており、繰り返しの着用や洗濯でも低通気度を保持しながら、イラツキがなく、ソフトな風合の軽量織物を達成している。従って、本発明の織物は、ダウンウェア、ダウンジャケット、寝袋、及び布団の側地として極めて適している。   Furthermore, as described above, the woven fabric of the present invention eliminates the irritation caused by the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn possessed by Patent Document 1 and the bending rigidity caused by the high degree of irregularity. While maintaining a low air permeability, a lightweight fabric with a soft texture and no irritation has been achieved. Therefore, the woven fabric of the present invention is extremely suitable as a downwear, a down jacket, a sleeping bag, and a futon side.

以下の実施例によって本発明の効果を具体的に示すが、本発明はこれらに限定されるものではない。なお、実施例中の特性値の評価は以下の方法で行なった。   The effects of the present invention are specifically shown by the following examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. In addition, evaluation of the characteristic value in an Example was performed with the following method.

<異形度>
VH−Z450型顕微鏡及びVH−6300型測定機(KEYENCE社製)を用い、1500倍の倍率で単糸の断面形状の長径D(最も長い部分の径)と短径d(最も短い部分の径)をそれぞれ測定した(図1参照)。そして、単糸の断面形状の(長径D)/(短径d)を算出し)、単糸5本の平均値を単糸の異形度とした。
<直線率>
異形度測定の測定機、倍率で単糸の凸部の弧と凹部の弧を結ぶ直線の長さLを測定し(図1)、長さLを単糸の外接円の半径Dで割った値。単糸5本の平均値を単糸の直線率とした。
<Deformation degree>
Using a VH-Z450 type microscope and a VH-6300 type measuring machine (manufactured by KEYENCE), the major axis D (longest part diameter) and minor axis d (shortest part diameter) of the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn at a magnification of 1500 times ) Were measured (see FIG. 1). Then, (the major axis D) / (minor axis d) of the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn was calculated), and the average value of the five single yarns was defined as the degree of deformity of the single yarn.
<Linear rate>
A measuring machine for measuring irregularity, the length L of the straight line connecting the arc of the convex part of the single yarn and the arc of the concave part was measured with a magnification (FIG. 1), and the length L was divided by the radius D of the circumscribed circle of the single yarn value. The average value of 5 single yarns was defined as the linear rate of the single yarn.

<繊度、破断強度、破断伸度、密度、目付>
これらの評価項目は、JIS−L−1096に記載の方法に準拠して測定した。
<Fineness, breaking strength, breaking elongation, density, basis weight>
These evaluation items were measured according to the method described in JIS-L-1096.

<伸縮復元率>
この評価項目は、JIS−L−1013(ボイル15分処理)に記載の方法に準拠して測定した。
<Expansion / restoration rate>
This evaluation item was measured based on the method described in JIS-L-1013 (boil 15 minutes treatment).

<相対粘度RV>
96.3±0.1質量%の試薬特級濃硫酸中にポリマー濃度が10mg/mlになるように試薬を溶解させてサンプル溶液を調製した。20℃±0.05℃の温度で水落下秒数が6から7秒のオストワルド粘度計を用い、20℃±0.05℃の温度で、調製したサンプル溶液20mlの落下時間T1(秒)、及び試料を溶解するに用いた96.3±0.1質量%の試薬特級濃硫酸20mlの落下時間T0(秒)をそれぞれ測定した。使用する素材の相対粘度(RV)は下記の式で算出された。
RV=T1/T0
<Relative viscosity RV>
The reagent was dissolved in 96.3 ± 0.1% by mass of reagent grade concentrated sulfuric acid so that the polymer concentration was 10 mg / ml to prepare a sample solution. Using an Ostwald viscometer with a temperature of 20 ° C. ± 0.05 ° C. and a water fall time of 6 to 7 seconds, a drop time T1 (second) of 20 ml of the prepared sample solution at a temperature of 20 ° C. ± 0.05 ° C., And the drop time T0 (seconds) of 20 ml of reagent grade concentrated sulfuric acid of 96.3 ± 0.1% by mass used for dissolving the sample was measured. The relative viscosity (RV) of the material used was calculated by the following formula.
RV = T1 / T0

<カバーファクター>
織物のカバーファクターは、ヒラ部における経糸の√繊度T×仕上密度(本/吋)+緯糸の√繊度×仕上密度(本/吋)の式によって算出した。リップストップ組織もヒラ部の密度を測定した。
<Cover factor>
The cover factor of the woven fabric was calculated by the formula of warp √fineness T × finishing density (main / 吋) + weft √fineness × finishing density (main / に お け る) in the heel part. The density of the heel portion of the ripstop structure was also measured.

<通気度>
織物の通気度は、JIS−L−1096 8.27.1(フラジール形法)に記載の方法に準拠して測定した。
<Air permeability>
The air permeability of the woven fabric was measured according to the method described in JIS-L-1096 8.27.1 (Fragile method).

<滑脱抵抗力>
織物の滑脱抵抗力は、JIS−L−1096 8.23 B法に記載の方法に準拠して荷重117N下で測定した。
<Sliding resistance>
The sliding resistance of the fabric was measured under a load of 117 N in accordance with the method described in JIS-L-1096 8.23 B method.

<洗濯耐久性>
織物の洗濯は、JIS−L−0217 103法に準拠して実施した。洗濯10回は洗濯―脱水―乾燥を10回繰り返した場合である。乾燥方法はライン乾燥で行った。織物の洗濯耐久性は、洗濯10回後の通気度及び滑脱抵抗力により評価した。
<Washing durability>
The washing of the woven fabric was performed in accordance with JIS-L-0217 103 method. Washing 10 times is a case where washing-dehydration-drying is repeated 10 times. The drying method was line drying. The washing durability of the fabric was evaluated based on the air permeability and sliding resistance after 10 washings.

<織物の伸び率>
織物の伸び率は、JIS−L−1096 8.16.1B法に記載の方法に準拠して測定した。
<Elongation rate of fabric>
The elongation percentage of the woven fabric was measured according to the method described in JIS-L-1096 8.16.1B method.

<織物品位(イラツキ程度)>
図7aの品位を以下で示すAとし、図7bの品位を以下で示すDとし、5人のベテランの評価者が織物を目視して以下の4段階の評価を行った。
Aイラツキがない Bややイラツキがある Cややイラツキが目立つ
Dイラツキが目立つ
<Fabric grade (about irritability)>
The quality of FIG. 7a was set as A shown below, and the quality of FIG. 7b was set as D shown below. Five experienced evaluators visually evaluated the fabric and evaluated the following four levels.
A There is no irritability B There is some irritability C Some irritations are noticeable D illness is conspicuous

<風合>
5人のベテランの評価者が織物を触り、以下の4段階の評価を行った。
A非常にソフト Bややソフト Cやや硬い D非常に硬い
<Feeling>
Five experienced evaluators touched the fabric and evaluated the following four levels.
A very soft B slightly soft C slightly hard D very hard

<総合評価>
織物品位がB以上であり、風合がB以上であり、洗濯10回後の通気度が1.5cc以下であり、滑脱抵抗力が経、緯とも3.0mm以下である糸、織物を合格とし、この範囲を外れる糸、織物を不合格とした。
<Comprehensive evaluation>
Passes yarns and fabrics with a fabric quality of B or higher, a texture of B or higher, air permeability after 10 washings of 1.5 cc or less, slip resistance, and weft of 3.0 mm or less. And yarns and fabrics outside this range were rejected.

実施例1
図2aに示すような五葉断面形状のブライト6ナイロン22T20f(相対粘度RV3.5、単糸繊度1.1dtex(T)、異形度1.9、直線率0.22、破断強度5.8cN/dtex、破断伸度48%)の経糸、緯糸を用い、カバーファクター1578のタフタを製織し、染色仕上げ加工を行った。生機を連続精練で糊抜きした後に脱水乾燥し、濃紺酸性染料を用いて液流染色を行った。乾燥セット後、非フッ素系(パラフィン系)撥水剤を用いて撥水処理を行い、温度160℃、圧力2.5MPa、速度20m/分の条件で2回のカレンダー加工(2本の金属製ロールを使用)を行い、カバーファクターを1689に仕上げ、滑脱抵抗力が経1.9mm、緯2.0mm、目付37.4g/mの織物を得た。実施例1の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表1に示す。表1に示すように、初期だけでなく10回洗濯後の低通気度保持性も良く、織物品位、風合とも満足できるものであった。
Example 1
Bright 6 nylon 22T20f having a five-leaf cross section as shown in FIG. 2a (relative viscosity RV3.5, single yarn fineness 1.1 dtex (T), deformity 1.9, linear rate 0.22, breaking strength 5.8 cN / dtex Using a warp and weft having a break elongation of 48%), a taffeta with a cover factor of 1578 was woven and dyed and finished. The raw machine was desized by continuous scouring, dehydrated and dried, and liquid dyed using a dark blue acid dye. After the drying set, water repellent treatment is performed using a non-fluorine (paraffinic) water repellent, and calendering is performed twice at a temperature of 160 ° C., a pressure of 2.5 MPa, and a speed of 20 m / min. Using a roll), the cover factor was finished to 1689, and a woven fabric having a slip resistance of 1.9 mm, a weft of 2.0 mm, and a basis weight of 37.4 g / m 2 was obtained. Table 1 shows the details of the evaluation results of the yarn and the fabric of Example 1. As shown in Table 1, not only the initial stage but also the low air permeability retention after washing 10 times was good, and the fabric quality and texture were satisfactory.

実施例2
実施例1において、単糸の異形度を1.9から1.6に変え、直線率を表1記載のように変えた以外は、実施例1と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例2の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表1に示す。織物の滑脱抵抗力が経2.0mm、緯2.1mmで問題なく、表1に示すように、洗濯10回後の通気度保持性、織物品位、風合は実施例1より優れ、十分満足できるものであった。
Example 2
In Example 1, a woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 1 except that the degree of irregularity of the single yarn was changed from 1.9 to 1.6 and the linearity ratio was changed as shown in Table 1. Table 1 shows the details of the evaluation results of the yarn and the fabric of Example 2. The sliding resistance of the fabric is 2.0 mm and 2.1 mm, and there is no problem. As shown in Table 1, the air permeability retention, fabric quality and texture after washing 10 times are superior to those of Example 1 and sufficiently satisfactory. It was possible.

実施例3
実施例1において、単糸の異形度を1.9から1.4に変え、直線率を表1記載のように変えた以外は、実施例1と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例3の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表1に示す。織物の滑脱抵抗力が経2.2mm、緯2.3mmで問題なく、表1に示すように、洗濯10回後の通気度保持性、織物品位、風合とも優れる織物が得られた。特に、風合は実施例2より僅かであるがソフトであった。
Example 3
In Example 1, a woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 1 except that the degree of irregularity of the single yarn was changed from 1.9 to 1.4 and the linearity ratio was changed as shown in Table 1. Table 1 shows the details of the evaluation results of the yarn of Example 3 and the fabric. As shown in Table 1, there was no problem with the sliding resistance of the fabric of 2.2 mm and 2.3 mm, and as shown in Table 1, a fabric excellent in air permeability retention, fabric quality and texture after 10 washings was obtained. In particular, the texture was slightly softer than Example 2, but softer.

実施例4
実施例1において、糸の断面形状を五葉から図2bに示すような六葉(異形度1.9)に変え、直線率を表1記載のように変えた以外は、実施例1と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例4の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表1に示す。織物の滑脱抵抗力が経2.2mm、緯2.2mmで問題なく、表1に示すように、実施例1と同様の性能を有する織物が得られた。
Example 4
In Example 1, the cross-sectional shape of the yarn was changed from five leaves to six leaves as shown in FIG. 2b (variant degree 1.9), and the linearity was changed as shown in Table 1, and the same as in Example 1 A fabric was obtained through the processing step. Table 1 shows details of the evaluation results of the yarn and the fabric of Example 4. As shown in Table 1, a woven fabric having the same performance as in Example 1 was obtained without any problem when the sliding resistance of the woven fabric was 2.2 mm and 2.2 mm.

実施例5
実施例4において、異形度を1.9から1.6に変え、直線率を表1記載のように変えた以外は、実施例4と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例5の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表1に示す。織物の滑脱抵抗力が経1.9mm、緯2.0mmで問題なく、表1に示すように、全ての評価項目を満足する織物が得られた。
Example 5
In Example 4, a woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 4 except that the degree of deformity was changed from 1.9 to 1.6 and the linearity ratio was changed as shown in Table 1. Table 1 shows the details of the evaluation results of the yarn and the fabric of Example 5. As shown in Table 1, a woven fabric satisfying all the evaluation items was obtained with no problem when the sliding resistance of the woven fabric was a warp of 1.9 mm and a weft of 2.0 mm.

実施例6
実施例4において、異形度を1.9から1.3に変え、直線率を表1記載のように変えた以外は、実施例4と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例6の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表1に示す。織物の滑脱抵抗力が経2.2mm、緯2.2mmで問題なく、表1に示すように、実施例5と同様に全ての評価項目を満足する織物が得られた。特に、風合は僅かであるが実施例5よりソフトであった。
Example 6
In Example 4, a woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 4 except that the degree of deformity was changed from 1.9 to 1.3 and the linearity ratio was changed as shown in Table 1. Table 1 shows the details of the evaluation results of the yarn and the fabric of Example 6. As shown in Table 1, a woven fabric satisfying all the evaluation items was obtained as shown in Table 1 with no problem when the sliding resistance of the woven fabric was 2.2 mm and 2.2 mm. In particular, the texture was slight, but softer than Example 5.

実施例7
実施例1において、断面形状を五葉から図2cに示すような八葉に変え、異形度を1.9から1.8に変え、直線率を表1記載のように変えた以外は、実施例1と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例7の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表1に示す。織物の滑脱抵抗力が経1.8mm、緯1.9mmで問題なく、表1に示すように、洗濯後の低通気度保持性、織物品位、風合とも優れた織物が得られた。
Example 7
In Example 1, except that the cross-sectional shape was changed from five leaves to eight leaves as shown in FIG. 2c, the deformity was changed from 1.9 to 1.8, and the linear ratio was changed as shown in Table 1. A woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in No. 1. Table 1 shows details of the evaluation results of the yarn and the fabric of Example 7. As shown in Table 1, a fabric with excellent slipperiness resistance, fabric quality and texture after washing was obtained.

実施例8
実施例7において、異形度を1.8から1.6に変え、直線率を表1記載のように変えた以外は、実施例7と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例8の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表1に示す。織物の滑脱抵抗力が経1.9mm、緯2.2mmで問題なく、表1に示すように、洗濯後の低通気度保持性、発色性、織物品位、風合とも実施例7と同様に優れた織物が得られた。
Example 8
In Example 7, a woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 7, except that the deformity was changed from 1.8 to 1.6 and the linearity ratio was changed as shown in Table 1. Table 1 shows the details of the evaluation results of the yarn of Example 8 and the fabric. As shown in Table 1, the sliding resistance of the fabric is 1.9 mm and 2.2 mm, and as shown in Table 1, the low air permeability retention, color development, fabric quality, and texture after washing are the same as in Example 7. An excellent fabric was obtained.

実施例9
実施例7において、異形度を1.8から1.3に変え、直線率を表1記載のように変えた以外は、実施例7と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例9の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表1に示す。織物の滑脱抵抗力が経2.1mm、緯2.2mmで表1に示すように、洗濯後の低通気度保持性、織物品位、風合とも実施例7と同様に優れた織物が得られた。特に、風合は実施例7、8より僅かであるがソフトであった。
Example 9
In Example 7, a woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 7, except that the deformity was changed from 1.8 to 1.3 and the linearity ratio was changed as shown in Table 1. Table 1 shows the details of the evaluation results of the yarn of Example 9 and the fabric. As shown in Table 1, when the slip resistance of the fabric is 2.1 mm and 2.2 mm, an excellent fabric is obtained in the same manner as in Example 7 in terms of low air permeability retention, fabric quality and texture after washing. It was. In particular, the texture was slightly softer than in Examples 7 and 8, but softer.

実施例10
実施例1において、断面形状を五葉から図2dに示すような十葉に変え、異形度を1.9から1.7に変え、直線率を表1記載のように変えた以外は、実施例1と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例10の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表1に示す。織物の滑脱抵抗力が経2.0mm、緯2.1mmで表1に示すように、洗濯後の低通気度保持性、発色性、織物品位、風合とも優れた織物が得られた。
Example 10
In Example 1, except that the cross-sectional shape was changed from five leaves to ten leaves as shown in FIG. 2d, the irregularity was changed from 1.9 to 1.7, and the linear ratio was changed as shown in Table 1. A fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in No. 1. Table 1 shows the details of the evaluation results of the yarn and the fabric of Example 10. As shown in Table 1 when the sliding resistance of the fabric is 2.0 mm and 2.1 mm, a fabric with excellent low air permeability retention, color developability, fabric quality and texture after washing was obtained.

実施例11
実施例10において、異形度を1.7から1.5に変え、直線率を表1記載のように変えた以外は、実施例10と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例11の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表1に示す。織物の滑脱抵抗力が経2.1mm、緯2.1mmで問題なく、表1に示すように、実施例10と同様に全ての評価項目を満足する織物が得られた。
Example 11
In Example 10, a woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 10 except that the degree of deformity was changed from 1.7 to 1.5 and the linearity ratio was changed as shown in Table 1. Table 1 shows the details of the evaluation results of the yarn of Example 11 and the fabric. As shown in Table 1, a fabric satisfying all the evaluation items was obtained as shown in Table 1 with no problem when the sliding resistance of the fabric was 2.1 mm and 2.1 mm.

実施例12
実施例10において、異形度を1.7から1.3に変え、直線率を表1記載のように変えた以外は、実施例10と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例12の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表1に示す。織物の滑脱抵抗力が経2.2mm、緯2.4mmで問題なく、表1に示すように、実施例10と同様に全ての評価項目を満足する織物が得られた。特に、風合は実施例10より僅かであるがソフトなものであった。
Example 12
In Example 10, a woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 10 except that the degree of deformity was changed from 1.7 to 1.3 and the linearity ratio was changed as shown in Table 1. Table 1 shows the details of the evaluation results of the yarn of Example 12 and the fabric. As shown in Table 1, a woven fabric satisfying all the evaluation items was obtained as shown in Table 1 without any problem when the sliding resistance of the woven fabric was 2.2 mm and 2.4 mm. In particular, the texture was slightly softer than Example 10, but softer.

比較例1
実施例1において、異形度3.0のY型断面形状(図3a参照)に変え、直線率を表1記載のように変えた以外は、実施例1と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。比較例1の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表1に示す。織物の滑脱抵抗力が経1.8mm、緯2.0mmで問題なかったが、表1に示すように、洗濯後の低通気度保持性に優れたものの、イラツキのある品位であり、かつ風合が硬く、上記実施例群に比較し、劣るものであった。これらの欠点はシャープな異形度と直線率の高さに起因するものと考えられる。
Comparative Example 1
In Example 1, a woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 1 except that the Y-shaped cross-sectional shape (see FIG. 3a) having an irregularity of 3.0 was changed and the linearity ratio was changed as shown in Table 1. It was. Table 1 shows the details of the evaluation results of the yarn and the fabric of Comparative Example 1. There was no problem with the sliding resistance of the fabric of 1.8 mm and 2.0 mm, but as shown in Table 1, it was excellent in low air permeability retention after washing, but it had an irritated quality and wind. The combination was hard and inferior to the above-mentioned Example group. These disadvantages are thought to be due to sharp deformity and high linearity.

比較例2
実施例1において、異形度を3.0の十字型断面形状(図3b参照)に変え、直線率を表1記載のように変えた以外は、実施例1と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。比較例2の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表1に示す。織物の滑脱抵抗力が経1.9mm、緯1.9mmで問題なかったが、表1に示すように、比較例1と同様に洗濯後の低通気度保持性に優れるものの、織物品位、風合に劣るものであった。織物品位、風合の悪さは比較例1と同様の理由によるものと考えられる。
Comparative Example 2
In Example 1, the woven fabric was processed through the same processing steps as in Example 1 except that the profile was changed to a cross-sectional shape of 3.0 (see FIG. 3b) and the linearity was changed as shown in Table 1. Obtained. Table 1 shows details of the evaluation results of the yarn and the fabric of Comparative Example 2. Although there was no problem with the sliding resistance of the fabric of 1.9 mm and weft of 1.9 mm, as shown in Table 1, it was excellent in low air permeability retention after washing as in Comparative Example 1, but the fabric quality, wind It was inferior. It is considered that the quality of the fabric and the poor texture are due to the same reason as in Comparative Example 1.

比較例3
実施例1において、異形度を2.5の五葉型断面形状(図3c参照)に変え、直線率を表1記載のように変えた以外は、実施例1と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。比較例3の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表1に示す。織物の滑脱抵抗力が経1.8mm、緯1.9mmで問題はなかったが、表1に示すように、比較例1と同様に洗濯後の低通気度保持性に優れたものの、比較例1、2に比べ、織物品位は若干改善されたものの、風合を含め不満足なものであった。
Comparative Example 3
In Example 1, the woven fabric was processed through the same processing steps as in Example 1 except that the profile was changed to a five-leaf type cross-sectional shape of 2.5 (see FIG. 3c) and the linearity was changed as shown in Table 1. Obtained. Table 1 shows the details of the evaluation results of the yarn and the fabric of Comparative Example 3. The sliding resistance of the fabric was 1.8 mm in warp and 1.9 mm in weft, but there was no problem, but as shown in Table 1, it was excellent in low air permeability retention after washing as in Comparative Example 1, but the Comparative Example Although the textile quality was slightly improved as compared with 1 and 2, it was unsatisfactory including the texture.

比較例1、2、3の欠点は高異形度による断面形状のシャープさと直線率の高さに起因し、カレンダー加工により同一単糸の断面形状における凸部と凸部の間が広げられて平坦部が増えてイラツキの原因になり、また単糸間の噛み合いが深いため、揉まれても単糸間が動きにくくなり、硬風合の原因になっていることが理由と考えられる。   The disadvantages of Comparative Examples 1, 2, and 3 are due to the sharpness of the cross-sectional shape and the high linearity due to the high degree of irregularity. The reason for this is thought to be the cause of stiffness due to the increase in the number of parts, which causes irritation, and because the meshing between the single yarns is deep, it is difficult to move between the single yarns even if they are twisted.

比較例4
実施例1において、形状を図3dのようにして直線率を表1記載のように変えた以外は、実施例1と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。比較例4の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表1に示す。織物の滑脱抵抗力が経1.9mm、緯1.9mmで問題はなかったが、表1に示すように、洗濯後の低通気度保持性に優れ、比較例1、2に比べて織物品位、風合は若干改善されているものの合格レベルではなく、不満足なものであった。低異形度であるが、直線率が高いことが原因と考えられる。このことから実施例1〜12のように低異形度であり、直線率も低くないと品位と風合を満足する織物は得られないことがわかる。
Comparative Example 4
In Example 1, a woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 1, except that the shape was changed as shown in FIG. Table 1 shows details of the evaluation results of the yarn of Comparative Example 4 and the fabric. There was no problem with the sliding resistance of the fabric of 1.9 mm and 1.9 mm, but as shown in Table 1, it has excellent low air permeability after washing, and the fabric quality compared to Comparative Examples 1 and 2. Although the texture was slightly improved, it was not satisfactory but not satisfactory. Although it is a low profile, it is thought to be caused by a high linear rate. From this, it can be seen that a woven fabric satisfying the quality and texture cannot be obtained unless the profile is low as in Examples 1 to 12 and the linearity is low.

比較例5
実施例1において、糸の形状を五葉から丸断面(異形度1.0)に変えた以外は、実施例1と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。比較例5の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表1に示す。織物の滑脱抵抗力が経2.0mm、緯2.2mmで問題はなく、表1に示すように、織物品位、風合とも優れていたが、洗濯後の低通気度保持性が不良であった。洗濯中の揉みや擦れにより、織物中で拘束されていた単糸が分離して動き、洗濯前の構造形態を保てず、通気度が高くなったものと考えられる。比較例5のように単糸同士の噛合い構造を持たない形状は低通気度性織物には不適であることがわかる。
Comparative Example 5
In Example 1, a woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 1 except that the shape of the yarn was changed from a five-leaf to a round cross section (degree of irregularity 1.0). Table 1 shows details of the evaluation results of the yarn and the fabric of Comparative Example 5. The sliding resistance of the fabric was 2.0 mm and 2.2 mm, and there was no problem. As shown in Table 1, the fabric quality and texture were excellent, but the low air permeability after washing was poor. It was. It is considered that due to stagnation and rubbing during washing, the single yarn that was restrained in the fabric separated and moved, the structural form before washing could not be maintained, and the air permeability increased. It turns out that the shape which does not have the meshing structure of single yarn like the comparative example 5 is unsuitable for a low air permeability fabric.

実施例13
実施例2において、糸を22T20f(単糸繊度1.1dtex(T))から22T36f(単糸繊度0.6dtex(T))に変えた以外は、実施例2と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例13の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表2に示す。織物の滑脱抵抗力が経1.9mm、緯2.0mmで問題はなく、表2に示すように、性能は実施例2と同様に満足すべきもので、特に、風合はよりソフトな織物となった。
Example 13
In Example 2, the woven fabric was subjected to the same processing steps as in Example 2 except that the yarn was changed from 22T20f (single yarn fineness 1.1 dtex (T)) to 22T36f (single yarn fineness 0.6 dtex (T)). Obtained. Table 2 shows the details of the evaluation results of the yarn and the fabric of Example 13. There is no problem when the sliding resistance of the fabric is 1.9 mm and 2.0 mm, and as shown in Table 2, the performance should be satisfactory in the same manner as in Example 2. In particular, the texture is a softer fabric. became.

実施例14
実施例2において、糸を22T20f(単糸繊度1.1dtex(T))から11T10f(単糸繊度1.1dtex(T))に変え、仕上げ後の織物のカバーファクターを実施例2に合わせ、カレンダー温度を160℃から180℃に、カレンダー回数2回から1回に変えた以外は、実施例2と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例14の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表2に示す。織物の滑脱抵抗力が経2.1mm、緯2.0mmで問題はなく、目付が26.2g/mと軽量で、表2に示すように全ての性能を満足するものであった。
Example 14
In Example 2, the yarn was changed from 22T20f (single yarn fineness 1.1 dtex (T)) to 11T10f (single yarn fineness 1.1 dtex (T)), and the cover factor of the finished fabric was adjusted to that of Example 2, and the calendar was changed. A woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 2 except that the temperature was changed from 160 ° C. to 180 ° C. from 2 times to 1 time. Table 2 shows details of the evaluation results of the yarn and the fabric of Example 14. The sliding resistance of the fabric was 2.1 mm and 2.0 mm, and there was no problem. The fabric weight was light at 26.2 g / m 2 and all the performances were satisfied as shown in Table 2.

実施例15
実施例5において、糸を22T20f(単糸繊度1.1dtex(T))から22T12f(単糸繊度1.8dtex(T))に変え、カレンダー温度を160℃から180℃に変えた以外は、実施例5と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例15の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表2に示す。織物の滑脱抵抗力が経2.2mm、緯2.3mmで問題はなく、表2に示すように、実施例5より風合が若干硬めになったものの、満足する性能を有する織物が得られた。
Example 15
In Example 5, the yarn was changed from 22T20f (single yarn fineness 1.1 dtex (T)) to 22T12f (single yarn fineness 1.8 dtex (T)), and the calendar temperature was changed from 160 ° C. to 180 ° C. A woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 5. Table 2 shows details of the evaluation results of the yarn of Example 15 and the fabric. There was no problem with the sliding resistance of the fabric of 2.2 mm and 2.3 mm, and as shown in Table 2, although the texture was slightly harder than in Example 5, a fabric with satisfactory performance was obtained. It was.

実施例16
実施例5において、糸を22T20f(単糸繊度1.1dtex(T))から56T48f(単糸繊度1.2dtex(T))に変え、カバーファクターを表2に示すように変え、カレンダー温度を160℃から180℃に変えた以外は、実施例5と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例16の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表2に示す。織物の滑脱抵抗力が経2.4mm、緯2.3mmで問題はなく、目付が68.9g/mになったが、表2に示すように、実施例5より風合が若干硬めになったものの、満足する性能を有する織物が得られた。
Example 16
In Example 5, the yarn was changed from 22T20f (single yarn fineness 1.1 dtex (T)) to 56T48f (single yarn fineness 1.2 dtex (T)), the cover factor was changed as shown in Table 2, and the calendar temperature was 160. A fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 5 except that the temperature was changed from 180C to 180C. Table 2 shows details of the evaluation results of the yarn of Example 16 and the fabric. The sliding resistance of the fabric was 2.4 mm and 2.3 mm, and there was no problem and the basis weight was 68.9 g / m 2. However, as shown in Table 2, the texture was slightly harder than Example 5. However, a woven fabric having satisfactory performance was obtained.

比較例6
実施例5において、糸を22T20f(単糸繊度1.1dtex(T))から22T8f(単糸繊度2.8dtex(T))に変え、カレンダー温度を160℃から180℃に変えた以外は、実施例5と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。比較例6の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表2に示す。表2に示すように、実施例5より品位が若干劣り、風合は明瞭に硬く、不満足な織物であった。これらの欠点は単糸繊度の太さに起因するものと考えられる。
Comparative Example 6
In Example 5, the yarn was changed from 22T20f (single yarn fineness 1.1 dtex (T)) to 22T8f (single yarn fineness 2.8 dtex (T)), and the calender temperature was changed from 160 ° C to 180 ° C. A woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 5. Table 2 shows details of the evaluation results of the yarn of Comparative Example 6 and the fabric. As shown in Table 2, the quality was slightly inferior to that of Example 5, the texture was clearly hard, and the fabric was unsatisfactory. These defects are considered to be caused by the thickness of the single yarn fineness.

実施例17
実施例5において、生機のカバーファクターを1578から1495に変えた以外は、実施例5と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例17の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表3に示す。得た織物のカバーファクターは1595、目付は35.2g/m、織物の滑脱抵抗力が経2.3mm、緯2.4mmで問題はなく、表3に示すように、実施例5より軽量で、洗濯後の低通気度保持性と滑脱抵抗力がやや減じたものの性能として十分であり、織物品位、風合は実施例5並に良いものであった。
Example 17
In Example 5, a woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 5 except that the cover factor of the green machine was changed from 1578 to 1495. Table 3 shows details of the evaluation results of the yarn and the fabric of Example 17. The cover factor of the obtained woven fabric was 1595, the basis weight was 35.2 g / m 2 , and the sliding resistance of the woven fabric was 2.3 mm and 2.4 mm, and there was no problem. As shown in Table 3, it was lighter than Example 5. Thus, although the low air permeability retention and the sliding resistance after washing were somewhat reduced, the performance was sufficient, and the fabric quality and texture were as good as in Example 5.

実施例18
実施例5において、生機のカバーファクターを1578から2075に変え、カレンダー温度を160℃から180℃に変えた以外は、実施例5と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。実施例18の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表3に示す。得た織物のカバーファクターは2204、目付は48.9g/m、織物の滑脱抵抗力が経1.1mm、緯1.2mmで問題はなく、表3に示すように、風合は実施例5より劣るが、織物品位と洗濯後の低通気度保持性を十分満足する織物であった。
Example 18
In Example 5, a woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 5 except that the cover factor of the green machine was changed from 1578 to 2075 and the calendar temperature was changed from 160 ° C to 180 ° C. Table 3 shows the details of the evaluation results of the yarn of Example 18 and the fabric. The cover factor of the obtained woven fabric is 2204, the basis weight is 48.9 g / m 2 , and the sliding resistance of the woven fabric is 1.1 mm and the weft is 1.2 mm, and there is no problem. Although it was inferior to 5, it was a fabric sufficiently satisfying the fabric quality and the low air permeability retention after washing.

比較例7
実施例5において、生機のカバーファクターを1578から1315に変えた以外は、実施例5と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。比較例7の糸、織物及び評価結果の詳細を表3に示す。得た織物のカバーファクターは1407、目付は31.2g/m、滑脱抵抗力が経5.2mm、緯5.6mmで不合格で、表3に示すように、織物品位、風合は良いものの、洗濯前の通気度が未達で、実用性に欠ける不満足な織物であった。
Comparative Example 7
In Example 5, a woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 5 except that the cover factor of the green machine was changed from 1578 to 1315. Table 3 shows details of the yarn, fabric and evaluation results of Comparative Example 7. The cover factor of the obtained woven fabric was 1407, the basis weight was 31.2 g / m 2 , the sliding resistance was 5.2 mm, and the weft was 5.6 mm, and it was unacceptable. However, it was an unsatisfactory woven fabric with insufficient air permeability before washing and lacking practicality.

比較例8
実施例5において、カバーファクターを1578から2200に変え、カレンダー温度を160℃から180℃に変えた以外は、実施例5と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。比較例8の糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表3に示す。得た織物のカバーファクターは2290、目付は51.0g/m、滑脱抵抗力が経1.2mm、緯1.0mmで問題はないものの、表3に示すように、織物品位、低通気度保持性に優れるものの、風合が硬く、不満足な織物であった。
Comparative Example 8
In Example 5, a woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 5 except that the cover factor was changed from 1578 to 2200 and the calendar temperature was changed from 160 ° C to 180 ° C. Table 3 shows details of the evaluation results of the yarn of Comparative Example 8 and the fabric. Although the obtained fabric has a cover factor of 2290, a basis weight of 51.0 g / m 2 , a sliding resistance of 1.2 mm and a weft of 1.0 mm, there is no problem, but as shown in Table 3, the quality of the fabric and the low air permeability The fabric was unsatisfactory although it was excellent in retention but had a hard texture.

実施例19
実施例5のナイロン6原糸(異形度1.6)を用いて、ピン仮撚加工糸を作成した。仮撚条件は、断面変形が少なく、捲縮性が得られ易いように仮撚数4200tpm、仮撚温度165℃、仮撚速度70m分、オーバーフィード率−3.33スピナー捲数1回とした。仮撚加工糸の伸縮復元率は34.2%であった。該仮撚加工糸の単糸は、断面が楕円状に変形し、異形度が1.8を呈していた。該仮撚加工糸を経糸、及び緯糸に用い、カバーファクター1672のヒラ織物を製織した。その後、実施例1と同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。その後、温度160℃、加工速度20m分のシュリンクサーファーを通し、織物中の拘束力を緩和する処理を施した。実施例19の原糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表4に示す。得た織物のカバーファクターは1923、目付は42.5g/m、滑脱抵抗力が経1.3mm、緯1.5mmで問題はなく、表4に示すように、織物の織物品位、風合、初期、及び洗濯10回後の低通気度保持性が良好な織物が得られた。また、織物の緯方向の伸び率は11.4%であった。捲縮性があって、低通気度が得られにくい仮撚加工糸織物にあって、実施例19が比較的低いカレンダー加工条件で低通気度と洗濯後の低通気度保持性が良いのは、仮撚加工糸段階で単糸間の噛合いが図6aに示されるより促進され、単糸が比較的分離し難い構造を形成しているためと考えられる。
Example 19
A pin false twisted yarn was prepared using the nylon 6 base yarn of Example 5 (degree of irregularity 1.6). The false twisting conditions were such that the number of false twists was 4200 tpm, the false twisting temperature was 165 ° C., the false twisting speed was 70 m, and the overfeed rate was −3.33 spinners so that the cross-section deformation was small and crimpability was easily obtained. . The stretch recovery rate of the false twisted yarn was 34.2%. The single yarn of the false twisted yarn had an elliptical cross section and an irregularity of 1.8. The false twisted yarn was used for warp and weft to weave a cover fabric with a cover factor of 1672. Thereafter, a woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps as in Example 1. Thereafter, a shrink surfer with a temperature of 160 ° C. and a processing speed of 20 m was passed through to reduce the binding force in the fabric. Table 4 shows details of the evaluation results of the raw yarn and the fabric of Example 19. The cover factor of the obtained fabric was 1923, the basis weight was 42.5 g / m 2 , the sliding resistance was 1.3 mm and the weft was 1.5 mm, and there was no problem. A fabric with good low air permeability was obtained at the initial stage and after 10 washings. Moreover, the elongation percentage in the weft direction of the fabric was 11.4%. It is a false twisted yarn fabric that has crimpability and is difficult to obtain a low air permeability. Example 19 has good low air permeability and low air permeability after washing under relatively low calendering conditions. It is considered that the engagement between the single yarns is promoted more than that shown in FIG. 6a at the false twisting yarn stage, and the single yarns form a structure that is relatively difficult to separate.

比較例9
比較例1のナイロン6原糸(断面形状Y字、異形度3.0)を用いて、実施例19と同条件でピン仮撚加工糸を作成した。仮撚加工糸の伸縮復元率は22.6%であった。該仮撚加工糸の単糸は、異形度が3.3に変形していた。実施例19より低い伸縮復元率は異形度が高く、仮撚時の捩れに対する回復性が弱い単糸形状によるものと考えられる。また、高異形度に起因すると考えられる仮撚時の糸切れと毛羽が多く、操業性は好ましくなかった。次いで経緯に該仮撚加工糸を用い、実施例19と同様の織物とし、同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。比較例9の原糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表4に示す。得た織物の目付は39.5g/m、織物の滑脱抵抗力が経1.9mm、緯2.2mmで問題はないものの、カバーファクターは1880で加工収縮が不十分であった。表4に示すように、織物の洗濯後の低通気度保持性は良いが、イラツキを呈する品位で、風合はやや硬く、織物の緯方向の伸び率は7.2%で少なく、不満足な織物であった。イラツキ品位は仮撚加工で捲縮性が付与し難く、仮撚加工前の高異形度、高直線率の影響が反映されたことによるものと推測される。
Comparative Example 9
A pin false twisted yarn was prepared under the same conditions as in Example 19 using the nylon 6 base yarn of Comparative Example 1 (cross-sectional shape Y-shaped, degree of profile 3.0). The stretch recovery rate of the false twisted yarn was 22.6%. The single yarn of the false twisted yarn had a deformity of 3.3. The expansion / contraction recovery rate lower than that of Example 19 is considered to be due to the single yarn shape having a high degree of irregularity and weak recovery from twisting during false twisting. In addition, there were many yarn breaks and fluffs during false twisting, which are considered to be caused by a high degree of deformation, and the operability was not preferable. Next, the false twisted yarn was used as the background to obtain a woven fabric similar to Example 19, and a woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps. Table 4 shows details of the evaluation results of the raw yarn and the woven fabric of Comparative Example 9. Although the obtained fabric had a basis weight of 39.5 g / m 2 and the fabric slip resistance was 1.9 mm and 2.2 mm, there was no problem, but the cover factor was 1880 and the processing shrinkage was insufficient. As shown in Table 4, the low air permeability retention after washing of the fabric is good, but it is of an irritating quality, the texture is slightly hard, and the elongation in the weft direction of the fabric is only 7.2%, which is unsatisfactory. It was a woven fabric. It is speculated that the Iraki quality is due to the effects of high deformity and high linearity before false twisting because it is difficult to impart crimpability by false twisting.

比較例10
比較例5のナイロン6原糸(異形度1.0)を用いて、実施例19と同条件でピン仮撚加工糸を作成した。仮撚加工糸の伸縮復元率は38.2%であった。該仮撚加工糸の単糸は、断面が細長い六角形状に変形し、異形度が1.2を呈していた。次いで経緯に該仮撚加工糸を用い、実施例19と同様の織物とし、同様の加工工程を経て織物を得た。比較例10の原糸、及び織物の評価結果の詳細を表4に示す。織物の緯方向の伸び率は13.9%で織物品位、風合に優れるものの、表4に示すように初期通気度が多めで、洗濯後の通気度が更に増し、実用性に欠け、不満足な織物であった。これは、揉みや擦過に対して分離しにくく作用する単糸同士の噛合いがないためと考えられる。
Comparative Example 10
A pin false twisted yarn was prepared under the same conditions as in Example 19 using the nylon 6 base yarn of Comparative Example 5 (degree of irregularity 1.0). The stretch recovery rate of the false twisted yarn was 38.2%. The single yarn of the false twisted yarn was deformed into a hexagonal shape with a long cross section, and the degree of deformity was 1.2. Next, the false twisted yarn was used as the background to obtain a woven fabric similar to Example 19, and a woven fabric was obtained through the same processing steps. Table 4 shows details of the evaluation results of the raw yarn and the fabric of Comparative Example 10. Elongation rate in the weft direction of the fabric is 13.9%, which is excellent in fabric quality and texture. It was a woven fabric. This is presumably because there is no meshing of single yarns that act hard to separate against stagnation and rubbing.

表1〜4から、本発明の条件を満足する織物は、洗濯後の低通気度保持性と織物品位、ソフトな風合を兼ね備えていることが確認できた。また、以下のことも確認できた。
・丸断面形状の糸は発色性、織物品位、風合とも優れるが、洗濯後の低通気度維持性に欠ける。また、異形度の高い断面形状の糸は洗濯後の低通気度保持性は良いが、イラツキのある品位を呈し、風合が硬い。
・単糸の断面を低異形度にし、形状を5〜10個の凸部のある多葉形にすることで低通気度保持性を保ちながら織物品位、風合を改善できる。
・多葉断面形状でも異形度が高いと織物品位が悪化し、風合も硬くなる。
・多葉断面の凸部数が多いと織物品位と風合が良い傾向を示す。
・仮撚加工糸においても同様である。
From Tables 1 to 4, it was confirmed that the woven fabric satisfying the conditions of the present invention has both low air permeability retention after washing, woven fabric quality, and soft texture. The following were also confirmed.
-A thread with a round cross-section is excellent in color development, fabric quality, and texture, but lacks low air permeability maintenance after washing. In addition, the yarn having a cross-sectional shape with a high degree of irregularity has good low air permeability after washing, but exhibits an irritating quality and a hard texture.
-By changing the cross section of the single yarn to a low profile and making the shape a multi-leaf shape with 5-10 convex portions, the fabric quality and texture can be improved while maintaining low air permeability.
・ Even with a multi-leaf cross-sectional shape, if the degree of deformity is high, the quality of the fabric deteriorates and the texture becomes hard.
-If the number of convex parts on the multi-leaf cross section is large, the fabric quality and texture tend to be good.
・ The same applies to false twisted yarn.

本発明の製造方法によれば、繰り返しの着用後や洗濯後においても低通気度を保持しながら、イラツキがなく、ソフトな風合の軽量織物を提供することができ、この織物は、ダウンウェア、ダウンジャケット、寝袋、布団などの側地に極めて好適である。   According to the production method of the present invention, it is possible to provide a light-weight woven fabric having no softness and soft feeling while maintaining a low air permeability even after repeated wearing and after washing. It is extremely suitable for side areas such as down jackets, sleeping bags, and futons.

図1aにおいて、Dは外接円の半径を示し、dは内接円の半径を示す。Lは凸部の弧と凹部の弧を結ぶ直線部の長さを示す。   In FIG. 1a, D indicates the radius of the circumscribed circle, and d indicates the radius of the inscribed circle. L represents the length of the straight line connecting the arc of the convex part and the arc of the concave part.

Claims (6)

以下の(i)〜(iii)の条件を満足する合成マルチフィラメントを用いてカバーファクターが1450〜2100の織物を製織した後、染色または捺染を施し、次いで撥水仕上げを施した後、片面または両面にカレンダー加工を施し、合成マルチフィラメントの単糸の横断面の多葉形状の凸部が、隣接する単糸の横断面の多葉形状の凹部に噛み合うように接するようにしたことを特徴とする織物の製造方法。
(i)単糸繊度が0.5〜2.0dtexであり、総繊度が6〜67dtexである;
(ii)単糸は、略同形状の丸みのある凸部と略同形状の丸みのある凹部が交互に連続して形成される多葉形状の横断面を持ち、多葉形状における凸部の数が5〜10個である;
(iii)単糸の横断面の多葉形状の異形度(外接円の半径D/内接円の半径d)が1.3以上2.0未満である。
After weaving a woven fabric having a cover factor of 1450 to 2100 using a synthetic multifilament that satisfies the following conditions (i) to (iii), the fabric is dyed or printed, then subjected to a water-repellent finish, It is characterized in that both sides are calendered so that the multi-lobed convex portion of the cross section of the single yarn of the synthetic multifilament is in contact with the multi-lobed concave portion of the cross section of the adjacent single yarn. A method for manufacturing a woven fabric.
(I) The single yarn fineness is 0.5 to 2.0 dtex, and the total fineness is 6 to 67 dtex;
(Ii) The single yarn has a multi-lobed cross section in which round-shaped convex portions having substantially the same shape and round-shaped concave portions having the same shape are alternately and continuously formed. The number is 5-10;
(Iii) The multi-leaf shape irregularity (radius D of circumscribed circle / radius d of inscribed circle) of the cross section of the single yarn is 1.3 or more and less than 2.0.
以下の(iv)の条件をさらに満足する合成マルチフィラメントを用いることを特徴とする請求項1に記載の織物の製造方法:
(iv)単糸の横断面の多葉形状の直線率L/Dが0以上0.30以下である、ここで直線率L/Dは、単糸の横断面の多葉形状における凸部の円弧と凹部の円弧を結ぶ直線の長さLと単糸の外接円の半径Dの比率を指す。
The method for producing a woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein a synthetic multifilament that further satisfies the following condition (iv) is used:
(Iv) The linear ratio L / D of the multi-leaf shape of the cross section of the single yarn is 0 or more and 0.30 or less, where the linear ratio L / D is the convexity in the multi-leaf shape of the cross section of the single yarn It refers to the ratio of the length L of the straight line connecting the arc and the arc of the recess to the radius D of the circumscribed circle of the single yarn.
用いる合成マルチフィラメントの単糸の横断面の多葉形状における凸部の数が5〜8個であることを特徴とする請求項1又は2に記載の織物の製造方法。   The method for producing a woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the number of convex portions in the multi-leaf shape of the cross section of the single yarn of the synthetic multifilament used is 5 to 8. 用いる合成マルチフィラメントの単糸の横断面の多葉形状の異形度が1.3以上1.9以下であることを特徴とする請求項1〜3のいずれかに記載の織物の製造方法。   The method for producing a woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the multi-leaf shape irregularity of the cross section of the single yarn of the synthetic multifilament used is 1.3 or more and 1.9 or less. 用いる合成マルチフィラメントの単糸の横断面の多葉形状の直線率が0以上0.28以下であることを特徴とする請求項2〜4のいずれかに記載の織物の製造方法。   The method for producing a woven fabric according to any one of claims 2 to 4, wherein the linear rate of the multileaf shape of the cross section of the single yarn of the synthetic multifilament used is 0 or more and 0.28 or less. 織物が、ダウンウェア、ダウンジャケット、寝袋、及び布団からなる群から選択されるいずれかの側地に使用されるものであることを特徴とする請求項1〜5のいずれかに記載の織物の製造方法。   The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the woven fabric is used for any side selected from the group consisting of downwear, down jackets, sleeping bags, and futons. Production method.
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JPWO2021256286A1 (en) * 2020-06-16 2021-12-23
KR20220021479A (en) * 2019-12-29 2022-02-22 지앙수 헝리 케미컬 파이버 컴퍼니 리미티드 Cotton polyester fiber and its manufacturing method
US20220090314A1 (en) * 2019-01-30 2022-03-24 Toray Industries, Inc. Water-repellent woven or knitted article, production method for same, and garment
CN120366967A (en) * 2025-06-26 2025-07-25 江苏青昀新材料有限公司 High-reflection flash spinning film

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WO2014021013A1 (en) * 2012-08-02 2014-02-06 東レ株式会社 Textile using a flat multilobar cross-section fiber
JP2014148776A (en) * 2013-01-30 2014-08-21 Suntex Fiber Co Ltd Woven fabric having filament with cross section of pentagram
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Cited By (10)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2019183318A (en) * 2018-04-09 2019-10-24 帝人フロンティア株式会社 Woven fabric and clothing
JP7101027B2 (en) 2018-04-09 2022-07-14 帝人フロンティア株式会社 Textiles and clothing
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US12359368B2 (en) * 2019-01-30 2025-07-15 Toray Industries, Inc. Water-repellent woven or knitted article, production method for same, and garment
KR20220021479A (en) * 2019-12-29 2022-02-22 지앙수 헝리 케미컬 파이버 컴퍼니 리미티드 Cotton polyester fiber and its manufacturing method
KR102503290B1 (en) 2019-12-29 2023-02-23 지앙수 헝리 케미컬 파이버 컴퍼니 리미티드 Cotton polyester fiber and manufacturing method thereof
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CN120366967A (en) * 2025-06-26 2025-07-25 江苏青昀新材料有限公司 High-reflection flash spinning film

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