JP2017164458A - Lip dull evaluation method and lip dull evaluation model - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for objectively, quantitatively and accurately evaluating the dullness of lips. Kind Code: A1 A method for evaluating dullness of the lip, characterized by evaluating the dullness of the lip with an index based on the maximum peak intensity of a spectral reflection spectrum in each wavelength region of 450 to 560 nm and 620 to 720 nm. [Selection diagram] Figure 2

Description

  The present invention relates to a method for objectively and quantitatively evaluating dullness of the lips and a model for evaluating dullness of the lips.

  Skin dullness is recognized as one of the major skin problems for women. Since the dullness of the skin gives an unpleasant impression in appearance, a technique for correcting dullness, such as correcting the skin color or adjusting the texture using makeup cosmetics, has been proposed. In order to judge the degree of dullness of the skin, sensory evaluation is generally performed, but when screening for materials effective for dullness correction and evaluating the effect, evaluation is performed based on objective indicators. It is desirable. Therefore, conventionally, various evaluation methods have been proposed for skin dullness, especially among skin. For example, Patent Document 1 discloses a method of measuring a spectral reflectance of 450 to 650 nm in the skin and evaluating a dull feeling from the area of the concave portion of the spectral reflection function. In Patent Document 2, an attempt is made to detect dullness of the skin by detecting internal scattered light based on the content of hemoglobin and melanin existing in the region from the skin surface to the microcirculatory system, and determining the amount of the light. Yes. Furthermore, in order to comprehensively evaluate skin dullness, a method is proposed in which corneocytes are collected by tape stripping, their morphology, melanin content, spectral reflectance at a specific wavelength, etc. are measured and weighted. (Patent Document 3). Other methods that use image processing, such as a method for evaluating dullness from the brightness of a UV image, a method for obtaining a histogram of the intensity of color elements of each pixel of a photographed image on the skin surface, and a method for evaluating the skin condition from its characteristics Are also disclosed (Patent Documents 4 and 5).

  On the other hand, the lips create facial expressions in the face, which is an important cosmetic point, and the dullness of the lips greatly affects the impression, but for the lips, examination of an objective evaluation method like the above-mentioned skin There has been little done. In addition, the lip has a transition zone from the oral mucosa to the skin, and is a part having both characteristics of the skin and the mucous membrane, and therefore has completely different characteristics from normal skin. For example, the lips have less sebum secretion and sweat glands than the skin, and the stratum corneum is extremely thin. Melanin pigments are considered to be one of the causes of skin dullness, but the lips lack or very little melanin pigments. As described above, since the skin and the lips are remarkably different in structure and the like, even if the skin dullness evaluation method is applied to the lips, it cannot be accurately evaluated. In addition, in the conventional screening method for dullness improvement material based on sensory evaluation, there is a problem that the results vary due to the influence of individual differences among subjects, changes over time or physical condition in the same subject, and the like.

Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-14903 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-127585 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 11-332836 JP 2010-46309 A Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2014-87641

  Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a method for objectively, quantitatively and accurately evaluating dullness of the lips, and a model for evaluating dullness of the lips that enables efficient and accurate screening for dullness-improving materials. And

  The present inventors analyzed the spectral reflection spectrum of the light irradiated on the lips, and found that there was a spectral pattern peculiar to the lips where dullness was observed. We found that two peaks in a specific wavelength region of the spectrum are greatly involved in the visual evaluation of dullness, and by using an index based on these peaks, it is possible to quantitatively and accurately evaluate dullness of the lips. The present invention has been completed.

  That is, the present invention relates to a method for evaluating dullness of lips that evaluates dullness based on an index based on the maximum value of the peak intensity of the spectral reflection spectrum in each wavelength region of 450 to 560 nm and 620 to 720 nm of the lips, and created using the index This is a model for evaluating dullness of the lips.

  According to the method of the present invention, it is possible to objectively and quantitatively evaluate the dullness of the lips, which has conventionally been subject to subjective sensory evaluation. Evaluate the dullness improvement effect quantitatively under the same conditions, eliminating the influence of individual differences between subjects, which has been a problem with the conventional sensory evaluation method, and the effects of changes over time or physical condition in the same subject. Therefore, it is possible to screen for dullness improving materials with high efficiency and high accuracy.

It is a figure which shows the measurement object site | part of the spectral reflection spectrum measurement in a lip. It is a figure which shows the correlation with I _alpha / I _beta and the dull score of a lip. It is a figure which shows correlation with S ( _alpha) / S ( _beta) and the dullness score of a lip. It is a figure which shows the spectrum in which the value of I ( _alpha) / I ( _beta) created based on the spectral reflection spectrum in the lip of the female panel acquired in Example 1 is 0.66.

  In the evaluation method of the present invention, a spectral reflection spectrum including at least two wavelength regions is acquired by projecting light onto the lips and detecting the reflected light. Of the two wavelength regions, the short wavelength side is a wavelength region of 450 to 560 nm, more preferably 480 to 550 nm, and even more preferably 480 to 530 nm (hereinafter sometimes referred to as “wavelength region α”). On the other hand, the longer wavelength side is a wavelength region of 620 to 720 nm, more preferably 650 to 720 nm, and still more preferably 680 to 720 nm (hereinafter sometimes referred to as “wavelength region β”). In the spectral reflection spectrum in each wavelength region, there is at least one peak that is a factor related to visual evaluation of dullness of the lips.

  As a device for measuring the spectral reflection spectrum, an optical measuring device such as a spectrophotometer capable of measuring the spectral reflection intensity or the spectral reflectance in the wavelength region can be used. Although it does not specifically limit as a light source, A xenon lamp, a halogen lamp, a fluorescent lamp, an LED lamp etc. can be utilized. Further, it is more preferable that the measurement is performed in a dark place where the illuminance is less than 0.1 lux (hereinafter abbreviated as “lx”) in that the reflected light from the lips can be taken in more accurately. Although the light irradiation direction and illuminance are not particularly limited, it is more preferable that the irradiation direction is irradiated from the front to the lip to be measured from the viewpoint that the entire face can be irradiated evenly without creating a shadow. The illuminance is preferably from 0.1 to 200 lx, more preferably from 0.1 to 100 lx, in that an appropriate light reflection intensity from the lips is required. The measurement wavelength interval is preferably about 5 to 20 nm. The spectral reflection spectrum may be restored from image information of the lips photographed by a CCD camera or a digital camera.

The site to be measured on the lips is not particularly limited, but the lower lip is preferable to the upper lip. In addition, the reflection intensity may be small because it tends to be a shadow at both ends (near the corner of the mouth), and the reflection intensity may increase because the reflection near the center of the lip is likely to be affected by regular reflection. From the viewpoint of ensuring accuracy, a portion other than the central portion and both end portions (mouth corners) in the horizontal direction when the lips are viewed in plan is preferable. Specifically, when the lower lip is divided into two regions on the left and right in the center in the horizontal direction, in the horizontal direction of each region, from the 1/3 portion near the mouth corner of the width of the region to 1/6 near the center. It is preferably up to a part, and more preferably from a half part near the mouth corner to a 1/6 part near the center. Further, in the vertical direction, it is preferably a region other than the upper edge and lower edge of the lip, and specifically, a region within 3/4 of the thickness of the lower lip with the center in the vertical direction of the lower lip as the center. Is preferable, and a site within 1/2 is more preferable. And is not the area of stbm particularly limited, preferably about 1~100mm ^2, 9~49mm ² is more preferable.

  The spectral reflection spectra in the wavelength regions α and β include at least one peak (maximum value). In this specification, the maximum value of the peak intensity of the spectral reflection spectrum means that when there are two or more peaks in each wavelength region, it means the spectral intensity of the peak having the highest spectral intensity, and each wavelength region. When there is only one peak, it means the spectral intensity of the peak.

In the present invention, an index based on the maximum value of the peak intensity of the spectral reflection spectrum in each wavelength region is used for evaluating the dullness of the lips. As such an index, for example, the ratio or difference between the maximum value (I _α ) of the spectral reflection spectrum in the wavelength region _α and the maximum value (I _β ) of the spectral reflection spectrum in the wavelength region β is exemplified. Specifically, the ratio (I _α ) of the maximum value (I _α ) of the peak intensity of the spectral reflection spectrum in the wavelength region α to the maximum value (I _β ) of the spectral reflection spectrum in the wavelength region _β / I _β ), or a value obtained by subtracting the maximum value (I _α ) of the peak intensity of the spectral reflection spectrum in the wavelength region α from the maximum value (I _β ) of the peak intensity of the spectral reflection spectrum in the wavelength region β (I _α −I _β ) and the like can be used. In addition, an index based on the integrated value of the spectrum intensity in the wavelength region of 10 nm before and after that, preferably the wavelength region of 5 nm around the peak wavelength where the peak intensity of the spectral reflection spectrum becomes the maximum in each wavelength region can be used. For example, the integrated value (S _α ) of the spectral intensity in the wavelength region of 5 nm before and after the peak wavelength (λ _α ) where the peak intensity of the spectral reflection spectrum in the wavelength region α is maximum, and the peak of the spectral reflection spectrum in the wavelength region β strength can be exemplified a ratio or difference of the integrated value (S _beta) of spectral intensity in the wavelength range of about 5nm wavelength of the peak of maximum (lambda _beta). Specifically, the spectral reflection spectrum of the wavelength region α with respect to the integrated value (S _β ) of the spectral intensity in the wavelength region of 5 nm before and after the wavelength (λ _β ) at which the peak intensity of the spectral reflection spectrum in the wavelength region β is maximum. The ratio (S _α / S _β ) of the spectral intensity integral value (S _α ) in the wavelength region of 5 nm before and after the wavelength (λ _α ) at which the peak intensity is maximum, and the peak intensity of the spectral reflection spectrum in the wavelength region β are maximum. In the wavelength region of 5 nm before and after the wavelength (λ _α ) where the peak intensity of the spectral reflection spectrum in the wavelength region α is maximum from the integral value (S _β ) of the spectral intensity in the wavelength region of 5 nm before and after the wavelength (λ _β ) For example, a difference (S _β -S _α ) obtained by subtracting the integral value (S _α ) of the spectrum intensity can be used. Among these, from the viewpoint of accuracy of evaluation, etc., the ratio (I _α / I _β ) of the maximum value of the peak intensity of the spectral reflection spectrum of the wavelength region α to the maximum value of the peak intensity of the spectral reflection spectrum of the wavelength region _β is Is preferred. The higher the value of I _α / I _β, the stronger the dullness of the lips.

  Since the above-mentioned index expresses dullness of the lips objectively and quantitatively, it can be used for various purposes. For example, correlate the above indicators with physiological phenomena such as poor circulation, dryness, and roughness that occur on the lips, identify the cause of lip dullness, and grasp the tendency of lip dullness by age from the relationship between age and the above indicators be able to. In addition, in the above index, based on the value evaluated as having no dullness, the color of the lip cosmetic suitable for correcting dullness specific to the subject is compared with the measured value of the index of the subject. It is possible to predict.

In addition, colors can be reproduced on various base materials so that the above index is a value that is evaluated as being dull, and this can be used as a model for evaluating dullness of the lips. For example, when using the I _alpha / I _beta as an index, applying a material improvement dullness on the evaluation model is expected to obtain the I _alpha / I _beta evaluation after application sheet, before and after applying the value By contrasting, the dullness improvement effect of the material can be evaluated. This method eliminates the effects of individual differences between subjects and changes in the same subject over time or changes in physical condition, which has been a problem with conventional sensory evaluation methods, and improves dullness quantitatively under the same conditions. Since the effect can be evaluated, it is possible to screen for a dullness improving material with high efficiency and high accuracy. The dullness improving material is not particularly limited, and includes a raw material alone or a mixture of two or more raw materials used for cosmetics, skin external preparations, etc., and may be either a natural product or a synthetic product. . The evaluation model can also be used for evaluation of dullness improvement effect as a cosmetic and selection of a cosmetic based on the evaluation. As the base material of the model for evaluation, a sheet-like material such as paper, plastic film, artificial leather, a three-dimensional model shaped like a lip, a screen that displays a color that reproduces dullness, and the like can be used. An evaluation model can be prepared by coloring this base material into a color having a predetermined value in the above index according to a conventional method. Further, when I _α / I _β is used as an index, the value is preferably 0.30 to 1.00, from the viewpoint that dullness can be sufficiently reproduced under the measurement conditions described in the examples, and 0.35 to 0.00. 80 is more preferable.

As a suitable specific example of the screening method for dullness improvement material, a composition in which a dullness improvement material to be tested is dissolved or dispersed in a solvent is applied to a glass plate, and this is applied on the above dullness evaluation model. In this state, light is projected from the composition coating surface side of the glass plate, and I _α / I _β is calculated from the obtained spectral reflection spectrum, and dull evaluation is performed. The method of calculating | requiring the difference with _Iα / _Iβ of an industrial model is mentioned. The composition in which the dullness improving material is dissolved or dispersed is preferably transparent. When the composition is transparent, the dullness improving material has little influence on the spectral reflection spectrum, and the dullness correction effect can be more accurately evaluated. Further, it is possible to evaluate the effect of improving dullness in a natural finished state without excessively hiding the original color of the lips. In this specification, the composition being transparent means that the transmittance of light having a wavelength of 700 nm when coated on a glass plate having a thickness of 1 mm with a doctor blade having a thickness of 200 μm is 50% or more, preferably 70 It means that it is more than%. As the solvent used in the above composition, solid oils such as animal oils, vegetable oils, synthetic oils, semi-solid oils, liquid oils, volatile oils and the like that are usually used in lip cosmetics can be used. Use oily components such as hydrogen, oils and fats, waxes, hardened oils, ester oils, fatty acids, higher alcohols, silicone oils, fluorine oils, lanolin derivatives, oily gelling agents, etc. it can. The transmittance of the composition can be adjusted by the content of solid or semi-solid oil in the oil component, the content of the dullness improving material, the content of powder other than the dullness improving material, and the like.

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example is given and this invention is demonstrated in detail, this invention is not restrict | limited at all by these.

Example 1
Three professional evaluators scored the lip dullness of 30 female panels (6 in 20's, 10 in 30's, 8 in 40's, 6 in 50's) based on the following criteria (3 levels) (Score 0 is 11 people, score 1 is 12 people, score 2 is 7 people).
(Evaluation criteria)
Score: Degree of dullness 0: No dullness 1: Slightly dullness 2: Clearly dullness

Using the multi-wavelength variable light source ELS-VIS (light source: 800W xenon lamp; reproducing standard light D65 illumination, illuminance of 100 lx or less) for the same female panel, visible light (400 to 720 nm) is 70 cm from the front of the face. Irradiated at distance. The site to be measured on the lips was the site shown below. The reflected light at each wavelength of 400 to 720 nm (10 nm interval) is received by a monochrome camera, and the spectral reflection spectrum in each wavelength region of 480 to 530 nm (wavelength region α) and 680 to 720 nm (wavelength region β) is obtained. The maximum value (I _α ) of the peak intensity of the spectral reflection spectrum in the region α and the maximum value (I _β ) of the spectral reflection spectrum in the wavelength region β were obtained, and the ratio (I _α / I _β ) was calculated. . When the correlation between the value of I _α / I _β and the score by sensory evaluation was evaluated, they showed high correlation, and it was confirmed that the higher the value of I _α / I _β , the stronger the feeling of dullness. (FIG. 2). Similarly, the integrated value (S _α ) of the spectral intensity in the wavelength region of 5 nm before and after the peak wavelength (λ _α ) where the peak intensity of the spectral reflection spectrum in the wavelength region α is maximum, and the spectral reflection spectrum of the wavelength region β The integral value (S _β ) of the spectral intensity in the wavelength region of 5 nm before and after the peak wavelength (λ _β ) at which the peak intensity is maximum is obtained, and the ratio (S _α / S _β ) is calculated, and this S _α / S _When the correlation between the value of _β and the score by sensory evaluation was evaluated, they showed a high correlation, and it was confirmed that the higher the value of S _α / S _β , the stronger the feeling of dullness (FIG. 3).
(Measurement site)
As shown in FIG. 1, a line is drawn in the vertical direction at the center and right end of the lip, and two lines A and B that are divided into three equal parts are drawn. On the line A close to the center, the interior of a 5 mm square centered on a point that is 1/2 of the thickness of the lower lip (height from the upper edge to the lower edge of the lower lip) was taken as the measurement target site.

Example 2
The model for dullness evaluation was created according to the following procedure.
First, based on the spectral reflection spectrum in the lip of the female panel obtained in Example 1, a spectrum having an I _α / I _β value of 0.66 was created (FIG. 4). Spectral rendering was performed based on this spectrum to generate a color image, and a dull evaluation model was created by printing the obtained color image on printing paper.
Three professional evaluators scored the dullness of this dullness evaluation model according to the evaluation criteria described in Example 1. The score was 2, and it was determined that dullness was clearly observed.

Example 3
Screening for dullness-improving materials (organic pigments):
The compositions shown in Table 1 below were prepared by the following production method. Each composition was applied to a glass plate having a thickness of 2 mm with a doctor blade having a thickness of 400 μm, and superimposed on the dullness evaluation model prepared in Example 2, and I _α / I _{β in} the same manner as in Example 1. The value was calculated. In addition, sensory evaluation was performed on two items of “dullness correction effect” and “natural finish”. The sensory evaluation was carried out by 10 professional evaluators, scored according to the following absolute evaluation criteria, an average value was calculated from the total score of all the evaluators, and judged according to the following criteria. Moreover, the transmittance | permeability of the light of wavelength 700nm of the composition apply | coated to the glass plate of thickness 1mm with the doctor blade with a film thickness of 200 micrometers was measured with the V-2500PC type ultraviolet and visible spectrophotometer (made by Shimadzu Corp.). The results are also shown in Table 1.

<Absolute evaluation criteria for dullness correction effect>
(Score): (Evaluation)
2 points: dullness is clearly corrected 1 point: dullness is slightly corrected 0 point: dullness is not corrected at all <Determination of dullness correction effect>
(Average score): (Judgment)
1.7 points or more 2.0 points or less: ◎
1.3 points or more and less than 1.7 points: ○
0.0 points or more and less than 1.3 points: ×

<Absolute evaluation criteria for natural finish>
(Score): (Evaluation)
2 points: natural finish 1 point: ground color is difficult to see and slightly unnatural finish 0 point: ground color is invisible and unnatural finish <Natural finish criteria>
(Average score): (Judgment)
1.7 points or more 2.0 points or less: ◎
1.3 points or more and less than 1.7 points: ○
0.0 points or more and less than 1.3 points: ×

(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 3 are heated and dissolved at 100 to 110 ° C.
B: Components 4 to 8 are added to A and mixed uniformly.
C: After defoaming B, the mixture was heated to 90 ° C. and directly poured into a container to be cooled.

From Table 1, it was shown that the sensory evaluation tends to be higher as the value of I _α / I _β is lower, and that high-accuracy screening is possible depending on the value of I _α / I _β . Further, among the organic pigments, it has been clarified that Red No. 202, Red No. 226, and Red No. 201 are excellent in the effect of improving dullness of the lips. From a comparison between compositions 1 and 5, it was confirmed that the higher the transmittance of the composition, the better the dullness improvement effect in a natural finished state that does not depend on concealment.

Example 4
Screening for dullness improvement material (red interference plate powder):
Compositions shown in Table 2 below were prepared by the following production method, and I _α / I _β and transmittance were measured _and sensory evaluation was performed in the same manner as in Example 3.

* 1: TIMIRON SPLENDID RED (Merck)
* 2: SILSEEM MISTY PEARL RED (Nippon Koken Kogyo Co., Ltd.)
* 3: TIMIRON SUPER RED (Merck)

(Production method)
A: Components 1 and 2 are dissolved by heating at 100 to 110 ° C.
B: Components 3 to 5 are added to A and mixed uniformly.
C: After defoaming B, the mixture was heated to 90 ° C. and directly poured into a container to be cooled.

From Table 2, it was shown that the lower the value of _Iα / _Iβ , the higher the sensory evaluation, and the higher the accuracy of screening is possible depending on the value of _Iα / _Iβ . Moreover, it was confirmed that silica / titanium oxide-coated mica out of the red interference plate-like powder is excellent in dullness improvement effect on the lips.

Since the method of the present invention can objectively and quantitatively evaluate the dullness of the lips, it can be used for screening for a dullness improving agent for the lips.

Claims (5)

  A method for evaluating dullness of lips, wherein dullness is evaluated by an index based on the maximum value of the peak intensity of each spectral reflection spectrum in each wavelength region of 450 to 560 nm and 620 to 720 nm of the lips.   The method for evaluating dullness of lips according to claim 1, wherein the index is a ratio of the maximum values of peak intensities of spectral reflection spectra in the wavelength regions of 450 to 560 nm and 620 to 720 nm of the lips.   The index is a ratio of integral values of spectral intensities in a wavelength region of 10 nm before and after a wavelength at which the peak intensity of each spectral reflection spectrum in the 450 to 560 nm and 620 to 720 nm wavelength regions of the lips is maximum. Evaluation method of dullness of lips as described in 1.   A model for evaluating dullness of the lips having an index based on the maximum value of the peak intensity of the spectral reflection spectrum in each wavelength region of 450 to 560 nm and 620 to 720 nm of the substrate. The dullness of the lips according to claim 4, wherein the index is a ratio of a maximum value of a peak intensity of a spectral reflection spectrum in a wavelength region of 450 to 560 nm to a maximum value of a peak intensity of a spectral reflection spectrum in a wavelength region of 620 to 720 nm. Evaluation model.