JP2015120640A - Cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a cosmetic composition capable of reducing the visibility of pores, spots, wrinkles or the like, covering the skin defects and providing a uniform skin color tone.SOLUTION: There is provided a liquid cosmetic composition which comprises (i) at least one kind of interference pigment having a beige color and an average particle diameter of less than 30 μm, (ii) at least one kind of silicone elastomer, preferably a non-emulsifiable silicone elastomer and (iii) at least one kind of filler having oil-absorbing ability of 1 ml/g or more, in a physiologically acceptable medium. The liquid cosmetic composition can reduce the visibility of pores, spots, wrinkles or the like, cover the skin defects such as pores, spots and wrinkles and provide a uniform (homogeneous) skin color tone.

Description

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly a liquid cosmetic composition, comprising at least one small-size interference pigment having a beige color, at least one silicone elastomer, and at least one filler having an oil-absorbing ability. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition.

  The drawbacks of skin relief such as pores and wrinkles are conspicuous because of the contrast between bright areas such as skin ridges and dark areas such as skin pores. Light scattering can reduce this brightness difference and may be obtained by matting and blurring effects. A good balance between filler oil absorption capacity and non-volatile oil content may provide a matte effect. The introduction of a filler having light scattering properties may provide a blurring effect.

  Alternatively, the amount of pigment with strong light scattering and absorption properties may be increased in the cosmetic composition, for example, to mask skin color imperfections caused by stains. However, small particles such as pigments should be avoided. Because they tend to accumulate inside pores and wrinkles and increase their visibility. In conclusion, a cosmetic composition for concealing pores and the like should contain a filler having a strong oil absorbing ability, a filler having light scattering properties, and preferably a small amount of pigment. However, the above cosmetic composition does not provide sufficient cosmetic effects depending on the situation, reducing the visibility of pores, spots, wrinkles, etc., covering skin imperfections and providing a homogeneous skin tone. It may be.

EP 242 219 EP 285 886 EP 765 656 JP 61-194009 US Pat. No. 5,553,793 US Patent Application Publication No. 2004-175338 EP 0 542 669 EP 0 787 730 EP 0 787 731 WO 96/08537

The Journal of the American Chemical Society, 60, 309, February 1938 International Standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D) Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990 Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957

  An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition that can reduce the visibility of pores, spots, wrinkles and the like, can cover skin defects, and can provide a uniform skin tone. The above cosmetic effect preferably lasts for a long time.

The object of the present invention is to provide a physiologically acceptable medium,
(i) at least one interference pigment having a beige color and an average particle size of less than 30 μm,
(ii) at least one silicone elastomer, preferably a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer, and
(iii) It can be achieved by a cosmetic composition containing at least one filler having an oil absorption capacity of 1 ml / g or more, particularly a cosmetic composition in the form of a liquid cosmetic composition.

  Interference pigments such as pearl foil pigments or pearlescent agents may be in the form of plates having an aspect ratio of 1 to 200, preferably 5 to 100, more preferably 10 to 50.

  The interference pigments such as pearl foil pigments or pearlescent agents preferably have an average particle size between 1 μm and 20 μm, preferably between 1 μm and 15 μm, more preferably between 1 μm and 10 μm.

  The interference pigment such as a pearl foil pigment or a pearlescent agent is preferably at least one composed of mica, talc, alumina, silica, barium sulfate, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, synthetic fluorophlogopite, or a mixture thereof. Preferred is a composite powder comprising a plate type core and at least one coating comprising at least one metal oxide, preferably titanium dioxide, iron oxide or mixtures thereof.

  In a preferred embodiment, the beige pearl foil pigment or pearlescent agent comprises at least one mica plate-type core and at least one coating comprising a mixture of titanium dioxide and iron oxide.

  In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the interference pigment such as a pearl foil pigment or a pearlescent agent is 0.1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 0.3% by mass to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. More preferably, it may be present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight.

  The silicone elastomer in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably a non-emulsifiable silicone elastomer in the form of a gel or powder.

  In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the silicone elastomer is 1% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 1.5% by mass to 20% by mass, more preferably 2% by mass to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. May be present in an amount in the% range.

  Fillers with oil absorption capacity of 1 ml / g or more include silica, silylated silica (especially hydrophobic silica airgel particles), polyamide (especially nylon-6) powder, acrylic polymers, especially polymethyl methacrylate, polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol diethylene glycol. It is preferably selected from the group consisting of methacrylate, polyallyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer powder, perlite, magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

Hydrophobic silica airgel particles have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) in the range of 500 to 1500 m ² / g, preferably 600 to 1200 m ² / g, and 1 to 1500 μm, even better 1 to 1000 μm, Preferably expressed as an average volume diameter (D [0.5]) in the range of 1 to 100 μm, especially 1 to 30 μm, more preferably 5 to 25 μm, even better 5 to 20 μm, and even better still 5 to 15 μm. You may have a size.

  Hydrophobic silica airgel particles may have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, in the range of 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably 6 to 15 ml / g, more preferably 8 to 12 ml / g.

The hydrophobic silica airgel particles may have a packing density ρ in the range of 0.04 to 0.10 g / cm ³ , preferably 0.05 to 0.08 g / cm ³ .

  Hydrophobic silica airgel particles may be surface modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably with INCI name silylated silica.

  The filler having an oil absorption capacity of 1 ml / g or more is in the range of 0.1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably in the range of 0.3% by mass to 15% by mass, preferentially 0.5% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition. To 10% by weight.

  The cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one additional colorant, in particular at least one additional color pigment, such as a metal oxide, preferably titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide, in addition to the interference pigment. You may go out. In this case, the mass ratio of interference pigment to additional pigment is 1: 1 to 1:20, preferably 1: 1 to 1:15, more preferably 1: 1 to 1:10, even more preferably 1: 1. May be 1: 8.

  The invention also relates to a cosmetic process comprising the step of applying at least one layer of the above cosmetic composition according to the invention to the skin, in particular the facial skin. In this case, the cosmetic composition may be applied as a makeup product such as a foundation. This cosmetic method may be intended to reduce the skin defects, in particular the visibility of pores and / or stains, and to maintain the concealing effect of pores and / or stains for a long time.

  The invention also includes at least one interference pigment having a beige color and an average particle size of less than 30 μm, preferably at least one mica plate-type core, and at least one coating comprising a mixture of titanium dioxide and iron oxide. The cosmetic use of beige pearlescent agents with a mean particle size of between 1 and 10 μm, preferably as an agent to reduce the skin defects, in particular the visibility of pores and / or stains.

  As a result of intensive investigations, the inventors have found that the use of at least one beige interference pigment, such as a pearl foil pigment or pearlescent agent, having an average particle size of less than 30 μm is at least one silicone elastomer and 1 ml / g. Combined with at least one filler having the above oil-absorbing ability, it effectively reduces the visibility of skin defects such as pores and stains, especially reduces the visibility of stains, and has excellent concealing with natural effects It has been found that a cosmetic effect can be provided.

Therefore, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is:
(i) at least one interference pigment having a beige color and an average particle size of less than 30 μm,
(ii) at least one silicone elastomer, preferably a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer, and
(iii) contains at least one filler having an oil absorption capacity of 1 ml / g or more.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can reduce the visibility of pores, spots, wrinkles and the like, can cover skin defects, and can provide a uniform skin tone. Therefore, the makeup method according to the present invention using the above cosmetic composition can provide the above cosmetic effect. The above cosmetic effect can last for a long time, for example, all day.

  In one particular embodiment, the present invention can reduce the visibility of stains.

  Hereinafter, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention and the cosmetic method according to the present invention will be described in detail.

[Cosmetic composition]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in a physiologically acceptable medium,
(i) at least one interference pigment having a beige color and an average particle size of less than 30 μm,
(ii) at least one silicone elastomer, preferably a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer, and
(iii) contains at least one filler having an oil absorption capacity of 1 ml / g or more.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably in the form of a liquid cosmetic composition.

  The term “liquid” above refers to a composition that can flow under its own weight at room temperature, for example 25 ° C., as opposed to a solid composition that does not flow under its own weight.

(Interference pigment)
The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one interference pigment having a beige color and an average particle size of less than 30 μm.

  The expression "interference pigment" produces color by an interference phenomenon, for example, an interference phenomenon between light reflected by a single layer or a plurality of layers having different refractive indices, in particular a series of high and low refractive indices. Means possible pigments.

  The interference pigment may have a multilayer structure, where a multilayer is a structure formed from a substrate coated with a single layer, or a base coated with at least two layers or even several successive layers. It is intended to mean any structure formed from the material. As an example, the interference pigment may include more than four layers having different refractive indices. The layer of interference pigment may optionally surround the core, and the core may optionally have a plate-like shape.

  The interference pigment may be in the form of a plate having an aspect ratio of 1 to 200, preferably 5 to 100, more preferably 10 to 50.

  The interference pigments according to the invention have an average particle size of less than 30 μm. The average particle size may be measured as a volume average particle size with a laser granulometer, for example, the instrument Mastersizer 2000® from Malvern and / or the instrument BI90 + from Brookhaven Instrument Corporation.

  The interference pigment preferably has an average particle size of between 1 and 20 μm, preferably between 1 and 15 μm, more preferably between 1 and 10 μm. Such a small particle size is preferable for improving the effect on pores and stains having a natural makeup effect (satin appearance).

  The interference pigment is preferably at least one plate-type core composed of mica, talc, alumina, silica, barium sulfate, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, synthetic fluorophlogopite, or mixtures thereof, and at least 1 It is preferably a composite powder comprising at least one coating comprising a species of metal oxide, preferably titanium dioxide, iron oxide, or a mixture thereof.

  In a preferred embodiment, the beige interference pigment according to the invention comprises at least one plate-type core composed of mica and at least one coating comprising at least titanium dioxide and iron oxide.

  Pearlescent agents (pearl foil pigments) are examples of interference pigments.

  The term “pearlescent agent” refers to colored particles of any form and optionally may be iridescent as produced in certain mollusk shells or synthesized and optical Interference causes a “pearly” coloring effect.

  Examples of pearlescent agents include pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium dioxide coated with iron oxide, mica titanium dioxide coated with chromium oxide, mica dioxide coated with organic colorants, especially organic colorants of the type described above. Mention may be made of pearlescent pigments based on titanium and bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles with a continuous layer of at least two layers of metal oxide and / or organic coloring material on the surface.

  According to the invention, interference pigments, such as pearl foil pigments, have a beige color.

-Beige interference pigments used according to the invention preferably have a CIE L * C * h color system of 50 <L * <100, 15 <C * <35 and 30 <h <90 on a white background. Beige base color, and
-An unsaturated reflection color with a CIE L * C * h color system with 50 <L * <100 and 0 <C * <15 (any h value) on a black background, and
-Preferably may be characterized by an average particle size between 1 μm and 15 μm, preferably between 1 μm and 10 μm.

-In a more preferred embodiment, the beige interference pigments used according to the invention are 70 <L * <90, 15 <C * <30 and 40 <in the CIE L * C * h color system on a white background. beige base color with h <80, and
-A non-saturated reflective color with 50 <L * <75 and 2 <C * <10 (any h value) in the CIE L * C * h color system on a black background, and
-Preferably may be characterized by an average particle size between 1 μm and 15 μm, preferably between 1 μm and 10 μm.

The color of the interference pigment is a colorimeter, such as a Nikon Minolta CM-700d colorimeter (standard light source D65 / 10 °), with a white or black background covered with 0.2 mg / cm ² powder (interference pigment). The measured color can be characterized using CIE L * C * h color system, `` L * '' represents lightness, `` C * '' represents saturation, `` h '' Represents a hue.

  Examples of interference pigments for the present invention, preferably pearl foil pigments or pearlescent agents, include mica / titanium dioxide / iron oxide, such as Colorona® Oriental Beige, commercially available from Merck, and Prestige, commercially available from Eckart. (Registered trademark) Soft Beige is a product.

  Interference pigments such as pearl foil pigments or pearlescent agents exhibit a base color when applied to light areas of the skin, such as skin ridges, and a reflective color when applied to dark areas of skin, such as stains. be able to. Thus, interference pigments having a beige base color and an unsaturated reflection color can provide a natural color coating while lightening the stain and reducing its visibility.

  In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the interference pigment is 0.1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 0.3% by mass to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.5% by mass to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. May be present in an amount in the% range.

(Silicone elastomer)
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention also comprises at least one silicone elastomer.

  In one preferred embodiment, the silicone elastomer is a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer.

  The non-emulsifiable silicone elastomer may be in the form of a gel or a powder.

  The “organopolysiloxane elastomer” or “silicone elastomer” makes it possible to thicken the cosmetic composition according to the invention and to improve its application properties. It provides a very gentle frosted sensation after application and is particularly advantageous for application to the skin. The elastomer is a gel or a soft powder.

  The expression “organopolysiloxane elastomer” or “silicone elastomer” means a soft and deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties, in particular a sponge or soft sphere consistency. Its modulus of elasticity shall make this material resistant to deformation and shall have limited extensibility and shrinkage. This material can recover its original shape after extension.

  More specifically, it is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer.

  Accordingly, organopolysiloxane elastomers are diorganopolysiloxanes containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, particularly in the presence of a platinum catalyst. Dehydrogenation between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of organotin; By a crosslinking condensation reaction; or by a crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst. ; Gamma rays, may be obtained by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane via high-energy radiation such as ultraviolet rays or electron beams.

  Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens, each bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst (C), for example as described in patent application EP-A-295 886. It is obtained by a cross-linking addition reaction of (A) and a diorganopolysiloxane (B) containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon.

  In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and methylhydrogen polysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups in the presence of a platinum catalyst. .

  Compound (A) is a base reagent for formation of an organopolysiloxane elastomer, and crosslinking is performed by an addition reaction between compound (A) and compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).

  Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.

  Compound (A) may have an arbitrary molecular structure, particularly a linear or branched structure or a cyclic structure.

  Compound (A) may have a viscosity in the range of 1 to 50,000 centistokes at 25 ° C. so as to be particularly compatible with compound (B).

  The organic group bonded to the silicon atom of the compound (A) is an alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, or octyl; a substitution such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl It may be an alkyl group; an aryl group such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; a substituted aryl group such as phenylethyl; and a substituted monovalent hydrocarbon group such as an epoxy group, a carboxylic acid ester group or a mercapto group.

  Thus, compound (A) is selected from methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers. Also good.

Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower alkenyl groups (e.g., C ₂ -C _4), lower alkenyl groups include vinyl, be selected from allyl and propenyl Good. These lower alkenyl groups may be at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the end of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched, linear, cyclic or network structure, but a linear structure is preferred. The compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from a liquid state to a rubber state. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C.

  In addition to the alkenyl group described above, other organic groups bonded to the silicon atom in the compound (B) are alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3 Substituted alkyl groups such as 1,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbons such as epoxy groups, carboxylic acid ester groups or mercapto groups It may be a system group.

  Organopolysiloxane (B) includes methyl vinyl polysiloxane, methyl vinyl siloxane-dimethyl siloxane copolymer, dimethyl polysiloxane containing dimethyl vinyl siloxy end groups, dimethyl siloxane-methyl phenyl siloxane copolymer containing dimethyl vinyl siloxy end groups, dimethyl siloxane Dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer containing vinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer containing trimethylsiloxy endgroups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy endgroups Copolymer, methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, and di- Dimethylsiloxane containing chill endblocked group - may be selected from methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers.

  In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and methylhydrogen polysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups in the presence of a platinum catalyst. .

  Advantageously, the sum of the number per molecule of ethylenic groups in compound (B) and the number per hydrogen molecule bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) is at least 5.

  Compound (A) has a molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) from 1.5 / 1. It is advantageous to add in an amount in the range 20/1.

  Compound (C) is a catalyst for cross-linking reaction, especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complex, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complex, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complex, platinum black and platinum on the support. .

  Catalyst (C) is preferably a clean platinum metal, from 0.1 parts by weight to 1000 parts by weight, and even better from 1 part by weight to 100 parts by weight per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B). Added in parts.

  The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifiable elastomer.

  The term “non-emulsifying” characterizes organopolysiloxane elastomers that do not contain any hydrophilic chains and in particular do not contain any polyoxyalkylene units (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) or polyglyceryl units. Therefore, according to one particular embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer that does not contain polyoxyalkylene units and polyglyceryl units.

  Non-emulsifiable elastomers are described inter alia in patents EP 242 219, EP 285 886 and EP 765 656 and in the patent application JP 61-194009.

  More specifically, non-emulsifiable elastomers that can be used include KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. -44 sold under the name -44, sold under the names DC 9040 and DC 9041 by Dow Corning, and sold under the name SFE 839 by General Electric .

  Spherical non-emulsifiable elastomers that can be used include those sold under the names DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9509, DC 9505 and DC 9506 by Dow Corning.

  In one embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles are carried in the form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane contained in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or one silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.

  Preferred non-emulsifying silicone elastomers in gel form include INCI name product dimethicone crosspolymers such as DC9041 and DC9045 from Dow Corning.

  In another embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles are delivered in the form of a powder.

  Preferred non-emulsifying silicone elastomers in powder form include INCI name products dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers such as DC9506 and DC9701 from Dow Corning and KSG6 from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.

  In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one silicone elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin. Silicone elastomer powders are spherical and are obtained, among other things, through the process of synthesizing the non-emulsifiable elastomers described above. The silicone elastomer powder is coated with a silicone resin.

  According to one preferred embodiment, the silicone resin may be a silsesquioxane resin, for example as described in US Pat. No. 5,553,793, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. Such elastomer powders coated with a silicone resin are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105 by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., among others. Such a powder corresponds to the INCI name dimethicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, in particular vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer. As an elastomer powder coated with a preferable silicone resin, KSP100 can be used.

  The silicone elastomer particles may have a JIS-A hardness of 80 or less (especially in the range of 5 to 80), preferably 65 or less (especially in the range of 5 to 65). JIS-A hardness is measured by the method JIS K 6301 (1995) established by the Japan Industrial Standards Committee.

  In particular, the silicone elastomer particles may have an average size of 0.1 to 500 μm, preferably 3 to 200 μm, and even better 10 to 20 μm. These particles may be spherical, flat or amorphous, preferably spherical.

  In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the organopolysiloxane elastomer or the silicone elastomer is generally 1% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 1.5% by mass to 20% by mass, more preferably based on the total mass of the composition. Is present with a content of active substance (= dry substance) in the range from 2% to 10% by weight.

(Filler with oil absorption capacity of 1 ml / g or more)
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention also contains a filler having an oil absorption capacity of 1 ml / g or more. The filler according to the invention above has the ability to absorb and / or adsorb (or from the skin) oils or liquid fats such as sebum.

This oil-absorbing filler also advantageously has a BET specific surface area of more than 300 m ² / g, preferably more than 500 m ² / g, preferentially more than 600 m ² / g, especially less than 1500 m ² / g. It may be.

  The BET specific surface area is described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, BET (Brunauer-Emmet-Teller) method corresponding to International Standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D) Determined by The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the powder (thus including micropores).

  Thus, the filler under investigation according to the invention is at least 1 ml / g, preferably at least 1.5 ml / g, especially in the range from 1.5 ml / g to 20 ml / g, or even in the range from 1.5 ml / g to 15 ml / g. It has an oil absorption amount. Preferably it has an oil absorption of 2 ml / g or more, especially in the range of 2 ml / g to 20 ml / g, or even in the range of 2 ml / g to 15 ml / g.

  This oil absorption corresponds to the amount of oil absorbed and / or adsorbed by the filler and can be characterized by measuring the wet point according to the method described below.

Measuring method of oil absorption of filler:
The oil absorption of the powder is measured according to the method for determining the oil absorption of the powder described in the standard NF T 30-022. This corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the filler by measuring the wet point.

  An amount m (grams) of powder between about 0.5 g and 5 g (this amount depends on the density of the powder) is placed on a glass plate and then isononyl isononanoate is added dropwise.

  After the addition of 4 to 5 drops of isononyl isononanoate, use a spatula to knead the isononyl isononanoate into the filler and continue to add isononyl isononanoate until the aggregate of isononyl isononanoate and powder is formed. At this point, isononyl isononanoate is added dropwise and then the mixture is ground with a spatula. When a firm and smooth paste is obtained, the addition of isononyl isononanoate is stopped. This paste must be able to be spread on a glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of the isononyl isononanoate used is then recorded.

  The amount of oil absorbed corresponds to the Vs / m ratio.

  The oil-absorbing filler under investigation according to the present invention may be organic or inorganic.

  More specifically, fillers having an oil absorption capacity of 1 ml / g or more include silica, silylated silica (particularly hydrophobic silica airgel particles), polyamide (particularly nylon-6) powder, acrylic polymer, especially polymethyl methacrylate, poly It may be selected from methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polyallyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, or ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer powder, perlite, magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

  One skilled in the art would select a filler having an oil absorption of 1 ml / g or more, preferably 1.5 ml / g or more, more preferably 2 ml / g or more from the above-mentioned substances. Suitable for use in the invention.

  Advantageously, the oil-absorbing powder may be a powder coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent.

  Hydrophobic treatment agents include, inter alia, fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate and aluminum salts of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin and isopropyl titanate. It can be selected from isostearyl, inorganic wax, and mixtures thereof.

  N-acylamino acids may contain acyl groups containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl groups. The salt of these compounds may be an aluminum salt, magnesium salt, calcium salt, zirconium salt, zinc salt, sodium salt or potassium salt. The amino acid is not particularly limited and may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

  The term “alkyl” means inter alia an alkyl group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably containing 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

  Examples of fillers according to the present invention, ie fillers having an oil absorption of 1 ml / g or more, preferably 1.5 ml / g or more are described below, and their oil absorption values are measured according to the protocol described above.

Examples of silica powder include
-Porous silica microspheres, in particular Sunsphere (registered trademark) H53 and Sunsphere (registered trademark) H33 by Asahi Glass Co., Ltd. under the name MSS-500-3H by Kobo What is being sold,
-Polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres, especially those sold under the name SA Sunsphere® H33 (oil absorption equals 2.43 ml / g),
-Silylated silica powder, especially hydrophobic silica airgel particles sold under the name Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles by the company Dow Corning (oil absorption equals 10.40 ml / g),
-Amorphous hollow silica particles, in particular those sold under the name Silica Shells by the company Kobo (oil absorption equals 5.50 ml / g), and
-Precipitated silica powder surface-treated with inorganic wax, e.g., precipitated silica treated with polyethylene wax, especially sold under the name Acematt OR 412 by Evonik-Degussa (oil absorption is 3.98 ml / g equal)
Is included.

Examples of acrylic polymer powders include
-Porous polymethyl methacrylate (INCI name methyl methacrylate crosspolymer), for example, a sphere sold under the name Covabead LH85 by the company Sensient,
-Porous polymethylmethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate sphere sold under the name Microsponge 5640 (oil absorption equal to 1.55 ml / g) by Cardinal Health Technologies, and
-Ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer powder, especially sold under the name Polytrap® 6603 from Dow Corning (oil absorption is equal to 6.56 ml / g)
Is included.

Examples of polyamide powder include
-Nylon-6 powder, especially the product sold under the name Pomp610 by Ube Industries, Ltd. (oil absorption is equal to 2.02 ml / g)
Is included.

  Perlite powder, among others, is a product sold under the name Optimat 1430 OR by the company World Minerals (oil absorption equal to 2.4 ml / g).

  Among the magnesium carbonate powders mentioned are products sold under the trade name Tipo Carbomagel by the company Buschle & Lepper (oil absorption equal to 2.14 ml / g).

  Particularly preferred oil-absorbing fillers are silica and silylated silica powders, more specifically sold under the name Sunsphere (registered trademark) H33 by Asahi Glass Co., Ltd. and Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles by Dow Corning. Nylon-6 powder and porous polymethylmethacrylate (INCI name methylmethacrylate crosspolymer), such as the sphere sold under the name Covabead LH85 by the company Sensient.

  In one particular embodiment, the filler having an oil absorption capacity of 1 ml / g or more is a hydrophobic silica airgel (silylated silica).

  Silica airgel is a porous material obtained by replacing the liquid component of silica gel with air (by drying).

These are generally synthesized in a liquid medium via a sol-gel process and then dried by extraction of a usually supercritical fluid (most commonly used is supercritical CO ₂ ). With this type of drying, pore and material shrinkage can be avoided. The sol-gel method and various drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CJ and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.

Hydrophobic silica airgel particles that can be used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 500 to 1500 m ² / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m ² / g, and even better from 600 to 800 m ² / g. (S _M ), 1 to 1500 μm, even better 1 to 1000 μm, preferably 1 to 100 μm, especially 1 to 30 μm, more preferably 5 to 25 μm, even better still 5 to 20 μm, even better May have a size expressed as an average volume diameter (D [0.5]) in the range of 5 to 15 μm.

  According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles that can be used in the present invention are in the range of 1 to 30 μm, preferably 5 to 25 μm, better still 5 to 20 μm, even better still 5 to 15 μm. It may have a size represented by an average volume diameter (D [0.5]).

  The specific surface area per unit mass is described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, BET (Brunauer-Emmett corresponding to The International Standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D)). -Teller) can be determined via the nitrogen absorption method. The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

  The size of the hydrophobic silica airgel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercially available granulometer such as the Malvern MasterSizer 2000 instrument. Data is processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, suitable for isotropic particles, allows the determination of an “effective” particle size in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to one advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (S _M ) in the range of 600 to 800 m ² / g, and 5 to 20 μm, Even better, it has a size expressed as an average volume diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 5 to 15 μm.

The hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a packing density ρ in the range of 0.04 to 0.10 g / cm ³ , preferably 0.05 to 0.08 g / cm ³ .

  In the context of the present invention, this density, known as packing density, may be evaluated according to the following protocol. That is,

Pour 40 grams of powder into a graduated cylinder, then place the graduated cylinder on a Stampf Volumeter Stav 2003 device, then subject the graduated cylinder to 2500 continuous filling operations (this operation is the volume between two consecutive tests). Repeat until the difference is less than 2%), then measure the final volume Vf of the filled powder directly on the graduated cylinder. The packing density is determined by the m / Vf ratio (Vf is expressed in cm ³ and m is expressed in g), in this case 40 / Vf.

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles that can be used in the present invention are 5 to 60 m ² / cm ³ , preferably 10 to 50 m ² / cm ³ , and even better 15 to 40 m ² / cm ³ . range, or it may have a specific surface area S _V per unit volume.

The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the following relational expression. That is,
S _V = S _M * ρ, where ρ is the packing density expressed in g / cm ³ and S _M is the ratio per unit mass expressed in m ² / g, as defined above. Surface area.

  Preferably, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity measured in the wet point in the range of 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably 6 to 15 ml / g, and even better 8 to 12 ml / g. You may have.

  The oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, is written as Wp and corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

  This is measured according to the wet point method or the method for determining the oil absorption of a powder as described in the standard NF T 30-022. This corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed on and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wet point and is described below. That is,

  An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mix using a spatula and continue adding oil until an aggregate of oil and powder is formed. At this point, the oil is added dropwise and then the mixture is ground with a spatula. When a firm and smooth paste is obtained, stop adding oil. This paste must be able to be spread on a glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume of oil used, Vs (expressed in ml) is then recorded.

  The amount of oil absorbed corresponds to the Vs / m ratio.

  The hydrophobic silica airgel particles that can be used according to the present invention are preferably of the silylated silica type (INCI name: silylated silica).

  The term “hydrophobic silica” means that the surface is treated with a silylating agent such as a halogenated silane, such as an alkylchlorosilane, a siloxane, in particular a dimethylsiloxane, such as hexamethyldisiloxane or silazane, so that the OH group is a silyl group Si— Rn, for example any silica functionalized with a trimethylsilyl group.

  Reference can be made to document US 7470725 for the preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified by silylation.

  In particular, it is considered that hydrophobic silica airgel particles whose surface is modified with a trimethylsilyl group of silylated silica of INCI name are used.

Examples of hydrophobic silica airgel particles that can be used in the present invention include airgel sold under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: silylated silica) by Dow Corning, and the particles Has an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass in the range of 600 to 800 m ² / g.

  Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by Cabot under the reference names Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203 and ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1100.

More specifically, the airgel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: silylated silica) by Dow Corning is considered to be used, and its particles range from 5 to 15 microns. It has an average size and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² / g (oil absorption is equal to 1080 ml / 100 g).

Advantageously, the hollow particles according to the invention are at least partly hydrophobic silica airgel particles, preferably a specific surface area (S) per unit mass in the range from 500 to 1500 m ² / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m ² / g. _M ), and 1 to 1500 μm, even better 1 to 1000 μm, preferably 1 to 100 μm, especially 1 to 30 μm, more preferably 5 to 25 μm, even better still 5 to 20 μm, even better Are formed from those having a size expressed as an average volume diameter (D [0.5]) in the range of 5 to 15 μm.

  The use of hollow particles according to the invention, in particular hydrophobic silica airgel particles, also advantageously allows an improvement in the persistence of the cosmetic properties imparted on the keratin material, in particular the skin, by the composition.

  The filler having an oil absorption of 1 ml / g or more, preferably 1.5 ml / g or more, in the composition according to the present invention, in the range of 0.1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably with respect to the total mass of the composition. It may be present in a content ranging from 0.3% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight.

  In particular, for hydrophobic silica airgel particles that are very efficient in terms of oil absorption capacity, they are 0.1% to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 3.0% by weight, and more based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably it may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2.0% by weight.

(Physiologically acceptable medium)
In addition to the aforementioned components, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

  The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is intended to mean a medium that is particularly suitable for applying the composition according to the invention to the skin.

  The physiologically acceptable medium is generally also adapted to the nature of the support to which the composition is applied and the form in which the composition is packaged.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a dispersion or an emulsion.

  The dispersion may be prepared as an aqueous phase or an oil phase.

  The emulsion may have an oily and / or aqueous continuous phase. Such emulsions may be, for example, reversed phase (W / O) emulsions or normal phase (O / W) emulsions, or multiphase emulsions (W / O / W or O / W / O).

  In the case of emulsions, reversed phase (W / O) emulsions are preferred.

(Water phase)
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain an aqueous phase.

  The aqueous phase contains water. Water suitable for use in the present invention may be floral water, such as cornflower water, and / or mineral water, such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water, and / or spring water.

The aqueous phase is also a water miscible organic solvent (at room temperature: 25 ° C.), for example a monoalcohol containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; A polyol containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferentially 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; mono, di- or tripropylene glycol (C ₁ -C ₄₎ alkyl ethers, (including 16 carbon atoms from especially 3) mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C ₁ -C ₄₎ alkyl ethers, glycol ethers, and Or a mixture thereof.

  The aqueous phase may also contain stabilizers such as sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate.

  The aqueous phase can also include any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with the aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners or surfactants, and mixtures thereof. .

  In particular, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the range of 1% to 80% by weight, especially 5% to 50% by weight, more specifically 10% to 45% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The aqueous phase may be contained at a content of.

  According to another embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be anhydrous.

  An anhydrous composition is less than 5% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 3% by weight, in particular less than 2% by weight, more specifically 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Less water may be included.

  More specifically, the anhydrous composition may not contain water.

(Fat phase)
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain at least one liquid and / or solid fatty phase.

  According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of an emulsion.

  In particular, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise at least one liquid fatty phase, in particular at least one oil described below.

  The term “oil” means any fat that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention has a liquid fatty phase of 1 to 90% by weight, preferably 5 to 80% by weight, particularly 10 to 70% by weight, more specifically 20%, based on the total weight of the composition. To 50% by mass.

  Suitable fatty phases for the preparation of the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.

  The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

  They may be of animal, plant, inorganic or synthetic origin.

The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibers at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, the non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate of strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm ² / min.

To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of the oil or oily mixture to be tested is placed in a large chamber of about 0.3 m ³ , temperature-controlled at a temperature of 25 ° C. and humidity-controlled to 50% relative humidity. Place in a 7 cm diameter crystal dish placed on a balance. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely without agitation, while ventilating with a blower (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed vertically on the crystal dish containing the oil or mixture. The fan blades are directed 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystal dish and toward the crystal dish. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallization dish is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rate is expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit area (cm ² ) and unit time (minutes).

The term “volatile oil” means any non-aqueous medium that can contact the skin or lips at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and evaporate in less than an hour. Volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil that is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, the volatile oil has an evaporation rate between 0.01 and 200 mg / cm ² / min (including upper and lower limits).

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, in particular at least one Si—O group.

  The term “fluoro oil” means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

  The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly containing hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.

  The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups or acid groups.

(Volatile oil)
Volatile oils are hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, especially C _{8 to} C ₁₆ branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (2,2,4,4 , 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane (eg, oil sold under the trade name Isopar® or Permethyl®).

Volatile oils that can be used include volatile silicones such as volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 ⁻⁶ m ² / s) or less, especially 2 Including those containing from 1 to 10 silicon atoms, in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally having an alkyl or alkoxy group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Including. Volatile silicone oils that can be used in the present invention include, among others, dimethicone having a viscosity of 5 cSt and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyl. Examples include octyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

  According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is 1 to 80% by weight, or even 5 to 70% by weight, or even 10 to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In particular, it may contain 15 to 50% by weight of volatile oil.

(Non-volatile oil)
The non-volatile oil may be selected from fluoro- and / or silicone oils, especially non-volatile hydrocarbon-based.

In particular, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils include
-Animal-derived hydrocarbon oils such as perhydrosqualene,
-Plant-derived hydrocarbon oils such as phytostearyl esters such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto Co., Eldew PS203), fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular, fatty acids C ₄ -C _36, especially a triglyceride formed from what may have a chain length of C ₁₈ -C _36, linear or branched optionally these oils, saturated or unsaturated Saturated, among others, heptanoic acid or octanoic acid triglyceride, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, winter pumpkin oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, kukui oil, passiflora oil, shea butter, aloe vera oil, Sweet tonsil oil, peach kernel oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, Ridge oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, coconut oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, flax oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pith seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil , Medfoam oil, Hypericum perforatum oil, Monoi oil, Hazelnut oil, Anzu oil, Walnut oil, Olive oil, Evening primrose oil, Palm oil, Black currant seed oil, Kiwi seed oil, Grape seed oil, Pistachio oil, Winter pumpkin oil, Pumpkin oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon seed oil, and mixtures thereof, or caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by Sterineries Dubois or Dynamite Nobel Sold under the names Miglyol 810 (R), 812 (R) and 818 (R) Or it may be one that is,
-Linear or branched hydrocarbons of inorganic or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin and its derivatives, petrolatum, polydecene, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam, and squalane,
-Synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
-Synthetic esters, for example oils of the formula R ₁ COOR ₂ , in which R ₁ represents one linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, R ₂ Represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, particularly branched, provided that the sum of the number of carbon atoms in the R ₁ and R ₂ chains is 10 or more. Esters include, inter alia, fatty acid esters of alcohols such as cetostearyl octoate, isopropyl alcohol esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearic isostearate. Hydroxylated esters such as octyl stearate, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoate, and inter alia isostearyl heptanoate, octanoic acid, decanoic acid or ricinoleic acid or polyalcohols such as dioctanoic acid Propylene glycol, cetyl octoate, tridecyl octoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dihepta Benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethyl hexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, neopentanoate esters such neopentane Select from isodecyl acid, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid ester such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated ester such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate can do,
-Polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for example tetra (hydroxystearic acid / isostearic acid) dipentaerythrityl,
-Esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer, for example, Lusplan DD-DA5 (registered trademark) and Lusplan DD-DA7 (registered) sold by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd. and described in US Patent Application Publication No. 2004-175338 Trademark),
-Copolymers of diol dimers and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as dilinoleyl diol dimer / dilinoleic acid dimer copolymers and their esters, such as Plandool-G,
-Copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA or dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymers,
-Aliphatic alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and have branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chains containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol,
-C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,
A dialkyl carbonate in which the two alkyl chains are optionally identical or different, for example dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by the company Cognis,
-High with a molar mass in particular in the range from about 400 to about 10000 g / mol, in particular in the range from about 650 to about 10000 g / mol, in particular in the range from about 750 to about 7500 g / mol, more specifically in the range from about 1000 to about 5000 g / mol. Molar mass of oil. High molar mass oils that can be used in the present invention include, among others,
Lipophilic polymer linear fatty acid ester with total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70,
Hydroxylated esters,
Aromatic esters,
C ₂₄ -C ₂₈ Branched fatty acids or fatty alcohol esters,
Silicone oil,
Oils selected from plant-derived oils and mixtures thereof,
-Optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone fluoro oils, for example fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers and fluorosilicones as described in document EP-A-847 752;
-Silicone oil, e.g. non-volatile linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS); alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl pendant or at the end of the silicone chain and containing 2 to 24 carbon atoms A polydimethylsiloxane containing groups; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate; and
-A mixture of them is included.

  According to one particular embodiment, the fatty phase of the cosmetic composition according to the invention can contain only volatile compounds.

(Additional colorant)
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one additional colorant.

  The amount of additional colorant in the composition of the invention is generally from 0% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. % Range is considered.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is at least selected from inorganic or organic pigments conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, fat-soluble or water-soluble dyes, substances having special optical effects, and mixtures thereof. One additional colorant may be incorporated. In one particular embodiment, the composition may include additional pigments as colorants.

  The term “pigment” should be understood as meaning white or colored, inorganic or organic particles, which are insoluble in aqueous solution, color the resulting film and / or make it opaque. Is intended to be.

  Inorganic pigments that can be used in the present invention include metal oxides such as titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate. It is done. According to one particular aspect of the present invention, it is believed that the inorganic pigment is selected from iron oxide and titanium oxide, and mixtures thereof.

  It may also be a pigment having a structure which may be of the sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type, for example. Such pigments are sold, for example, by Chemicals and Catalysts under the reference names Coverleaf NS or JS and have a contrast ratio in the region of 30.

  The colorant may also include a pigment having a structure that may be of a type such as, for example, silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is a product sold by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd. under the name PC Ball PC-LL-100 P. This pigment is composed of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide. ing.

  Among the organic pigments that can be used in the present invention, carbon black, D & C type pigments, cochineal carmine based or barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum based lakes, or the documents EP 0 542 669, EP 0 787 730, EP 0 787 731 And diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP) described in WO 96/08537.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain a water-soluble or fat-soluble dye. The fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC red 17, DC green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC yellow 11, DC purple 2, DC orange 5, and quinoline yellow. is there. Examples of water-soluble dyes are beetroot juice and caramel.

  According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one additional pigment, for example a metal oxide, preferably titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide, in addition to the interference pigments described above. it can. In the case of additional titanium dioxide, the mass ratio of interference pigment to additional pigment may be 1: 1 to 1:20, preferably 1: 1 to 1:15, more preferably 1: 1 to 1:10. Good.

(Filler)
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain at least one filler.

  The filler may be organic or inorganic and may make it possible to impart, inter alia, additional matting effects or coating properties and / or improved stability with respect to bleed and transfer resistance properties after application.

  The term “filler” is to be understood as meaning colorless or white solid particles of any shape, in an insoluble and dispersed form in the medium of the composition. These inorganic or organic particles can impart body or stiffness to the composition and / or impart softness and uniformity to the makeup.

  The filler used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in lamellar, spherical or spherical form, in the form of fibers or any other intermediate form between these defined forms. Also good.

  The filler according to the invention may or may not be coated on the surface, in particular with silicone, amino acids, fluoro derivatives or any other substance that promotes the dispersibility and compatibility of the filler in the composition. It may be processed.

  Examples of inorganic fillers that may be mentioned include talc, mica, silica, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, glass or ceramic microcapsules.

  Examples of the organic filler to be mentioned include polyethylene powder or polymethyl methacrylate powder, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) powder, lauroyl lysine, hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyl lactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder manufactured by Toyo Pigment Co., Derived from silicone resin microbeads (eg Tospearl from GE Toshiba Silicone Co., Ltd.), natural or synthetic micronized wax, organic carboxylic acids containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms A cross-linked polyurethane powder comprising a metal soap such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate and a polyurethane powder, in particular a copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone. Murrell. It may in particular be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyl lactone polymer. Such particles are, for example, those sold under the name Plastic Powder D-400 (registered trademark) or Plastic Powder D-800 (registered trademark) manufactured by Toyo Pigment Co., Ltd., and mixtures thereof.

(Additive)
In one particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one component selected from hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents, oils, and mixtures thereof.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention also comprises, for example, rubbers, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickeners, structuring agents such as waxes, dispersants, Selected from antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizers, bactericides, UV blockers, vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen protective agents, and mixtures thereof, Any additive commonly used in the field under consideration may be included.

  It is within the ordinary skill for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of additives present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention so that the desired cosmetic properties and their stability properties are not affected by the additive. It is.

  The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be in the form of a skin makeup product, in particular a foundation, a hot-cure foundation product, a body makeup product, a concealer, an eye shadow or a lipstick. It may be in the form of an anhydrous gel, a stick or stick, or a soft paste.

  The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be a care composition, in particular a sunscreen composition.

  Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of a fluid primer or fluid foundation.

  In one particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably in the form of an emulsion.

[Makeup method]
The invention also relates to a cosmetic method.

  The cosmetic method according to the present invention comprises the step of applying at least one layer of the above-described cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the skin, in particular the facial skin.

  In the cosmetic method according to the present invention, the cosmetic composition may be applied as a makeup product such as a foundation. In one particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be applied as a makeup product.

  In one particular embodiment, the cosmetic method according to the invention reduces skin defects, in particular the visibility of pores and / or stains, and advantageously can last a long time for the concealment effect of pores and / or stains. Is intended.

  The invention will be explained in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

  All numerical values for the amounts of ingredients shown in Table 1 are based on “mass%” as the active ingredient.

(Example 1 and Comparative Example 1)
The following compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 shown in Table 1 are mixed together with the components that form the oil phase shown in Table 1 (Table 1) and mixed until the wax dissolves. It was prepared by heating to 0 ° C., dispersing the pigment and filler in the oil phase, and then proceeding to emulsification by adding the components that form the aqueous phase shown in Table 1.

  The pearl foil pigment (mica-titanium dioxide-iron oxide) was a plate-type interference pigment having a beige color and an average particle size of about 8 μm.

  The oil absorption capacity of silylated silica was about 10 ml / g.

  The cosmetic composition according to Example 1 (with mica / titanium dioxide / iron oxide) and Comparative Example 1 (with titanium dioxide) were tested by expert evaluation to evaluate the following cosmetic effects. That is, pore concealment, spot concealment, overall coverage, and color homogeneity. In the test, 0.1 g of each cosmetic composition is applied to half the face of 10 different professional subjects and the difference between the two cosmetic compositions is observed.

  The results are shown in Table 2 below.

  The above test results show that the cosmetic composition according to Example 1 is better than Comparative Example 1 in terms of pore hiding and blotting hiding, as well as overall covering, color homogeneity, and overall natural appearance. It showed that the makeup effect was good. In particular, in terms of “overall natural appearance”, Example 1 achieved a more natural makeup finish without producing an unnaturally whitish finish.

  The cosmetic compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were also tested by evaluation with devices and tested for the following cosmetic effects. That is, the color of the stain, the density of the stain and the area of the stain. In the test, 0.1 g of each cosmetic composition was applied to the face of 10 different subjects, and the color and area of the stain before and after application on the upper face were measured with a video camera under diffuse conditions and measured. Colors were characterized using the CIE L * C * h color system where “L *” represents lightness, “C *” represents saturation, and “h” represents hue.

  The results are shown in Table 3 below.

  The term “stain density” in Table 3 means the number of spots / unit area of skin.

  The above test results show that the cosmetic composition according to Example 1 showed a significantly better tendency to reduce the brightening effect against blots and the size of the blots than Comparative Example 1.

  From the above results, it is clear that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can reduce the visibility of pores and stains, can cover skin defects, and provide a uniform skin tone. The above cosmetic effect can last for a long time.

  Similar results are obtained when Colorona® Oriental Beige is replaced with Prestige® Soft Beige interference pigment.

Claims (18)

In a physiologically acceptable medium,
(i) at least one interference pigment having a beige color and an average particle size of less than 30 μm,
(ii) at least one silicone elastomer, preferably a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer, and
(iii) A liquid cosmetic composition comprising at least one filler having an oil absorption capacity of 1 ml / g or more.   The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the beige interference pigment is in the form of a plate having an aspect ratio of 1 to 200, preferably 5 to 100, more preferably 10 to 50.   The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the beige interference pigment has an average particle size of between 1 and 20 µm, preferably between 1 and 15 µm, more preferably between 1 and 10 µm.   The beige interference pigment is preferably composed of mica, talc, alumina, silica, barium sulfate, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, synthetic fluorophlogopite, or mixtures thereof, and at least 4. Cosmetic according to any one of the preceding claims, which is a beige pearlescent agent comprising at least one coating comprising one metal oxide, preferably titanium dioxide, iron oxide or mixtures thereof. Composition.   5. A cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein the beige pearlescent agent comprises at least one mica plate-type core and at least one coating comprising a mixture of titanium dioxide and iron oxide.   The interference pigment is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which is present.   The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the silicone elastomer is a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer in the form of a gel or a powder.   The silicone elastomer is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, which is present.   Fillers with an oil absorption capacity of 1 ml / g or more are silica, silylated silica (especially hydrophobic silica airgel particles), polyamide (especially nylon-6) powder, acrylic polymers, especially polymethyl methacrylate, polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol diethylene glycol. 9. Any one of claims 1 to 8, selected from the group consisting of methacrylate, polyallyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer powder, perlite, magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof. The cosmetic composition according to 1. Hydrophobic silica airgel particles have a specific surface area per unit mass (S _M ) in the range of 500 to 1500 m ² / g, preferably 600 to 1200 m ² / g, and 1 to 1500 μm, even better 1 to 1000 μm As an average volume diameter (D [0.5]) in the range of preferably 1 to 100 μm, in particular 1 to 30 μm, more preferably 5 to 25 μm, even better 5 to 20 μm, even better still 5 to 15 μm. 10. A cosmetic composition according to claim 9, having the size represented.   11. The cosmetic composition according to claim 9 or 10, wherein the hydrophobic silica airgel particles are surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups, and are preferably INCI name silylated silica.   Filler having an oil absorption capacity of 1 ml / g or more is in the range of 0.1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably in the range of 0.3% by mass to 15% by mass, preferentially 0.5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the cosmetic composition is present in an amount ranging from 1 to 10% by weight.   The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, further comprising at least one additional pigment, preferably titanium dioxide, in addition to the interference pigment.   The mass ratio of interference pigment to additional pigment is from 1: 1 to 1:20, preferably from 1: 1 to 1:15, more preferably from 1: 1 to 1:10, even more preferably from 1: 1 to 1: 14. The cosmetic composition according to claim 13, which is 8.   15. A cosmetic method comprising the step of applying at least one layer of the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 to the skin, in particular the facial skin.   16. The cosmetic method according to claim 15, wherein the cosmetic composition is applied as a makeup product such as a foundation.   17. A cosmetic method according to claim 15 or 16, wherein the cosmetic method is intended to reduce the skin defects, in particular the visibility of pores and / or stains, and to maintain the effect of concealing pores and / or stains over a long period of time.   Comprising at least one interference pigment having a beige color and an average particle size of less than 30 μm, preferably at least one mica plate-type core, and at least one coating comprising a mixture of titanium dioxide and iron oxide, preferably Cosmetic use of beige pearlescent agents having an average particle size of between 1 μm and 10 μm as an agent to reduce the skin defects, in particular the visibility of pores and / or stains.