JP2012158591A - Cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

[Object] To provide a cosmetic material in which a vesicle is allowed to settle and the vesicle is excellent in two-layer separability, storage stability, and moisturizing feeling.
[Solution]
The following components (A) to (C);
(A) A lysophospholipid (B) phospholipid (C) a cosmetic comprising a vesicle comprising cholesterol and / or phytosterol as a main component, wherein the blending mass ratio A / B of the component (A) and the component (B) Is 1.5 or more and 8 or less, and the blending mass ratio A / C of the component (A) and the component (C) is 1.5 or more and 8 or less. Cosmetics characterized in that the vesicles are redispersed as a result.
[Selection figure] None

Description

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic characterized in that vesicles settle upon standing and are redispersed by shaking during use, and more particularly, lysophospholipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and / or phytosterols Is a cosmetic containing a vesicle having a main component as a main component, wherein the main component is blended at a predetermined ratio, and the two-layer separability of the vesicle upon standing is excellent, and is used with shaking. In particular, the vesicle is re-dispersed in a soft-agglomerated state, and thus relates to a cosmetic material having a thick feeling of use, excellent massage and moisturizing feeling, and excellent vesicle storage stability.

  Vesicles are closed vesicles with a bilayer structure formed by amphiphiles, but because of this unique structure, they can contain active ingredients and are attracting attention as carriers for drug delivery systems. ing. In addition, vesicles have a high retention in the stratum corneum and can effectively act as an active ingredient, so that they are very effective as an external preparation for skin.

  Although there are many amphipathic substances that constitute vesicles, vesicles composed of phospholipids derived from living bodies are called liposomes, and many studies have been made from the viewpoint of safety to living bodies. For example, there is a liposome having a phosphatidylcholine purity of 90% or more, an iodine value of 0.1 or less, and a particle diameter of 100 to 500 nm (see, for example, Patent Document 1). In addition, many studies have been conducted on vesicle compositions using synthetic surfactants as amphiphilic substances constituting vesicles.

  On the other hand, lysophospholipid is a hydrophilic surfactant, and there is a technique used as an emulsifier in an oil-in-water emulsion composition. For example, there is a report on a liquid emulsified cosmetic in which oil is emulsified with lysophospholipid and storage stability is good even in the presence of an electrolyte (see, for example, Patent Document 2). There is also a report of cosmetics containing a nanoemulsion using lysophospholipid, phospholipid, and phenoxyethanol as a stabilizer (see, for example, Patent Document 3).

  In addition, a vesicle composition having excellent usability and storage stability by containing cholesterol and / or phytosterol, lysophospholipid and a specific oil has been reported (for example, see Patent Document 4).

  On the other hand, as one of the spread of cosmetic dosage forms, there are two-layer cosmetics that are used as a single layer, with two layers when left standing before use, and lightly shake and mix when used. There are various types of two-layer cosmetics, such as those composed of two liquid layers, and those composed of a liquid layer and a powder layer. For example, two-layer cosmetics in which one layer is an emulsified layer and the other is an aqueous layer have also been reported (see, for example, Patent Documents 5 and 6).

JP 2006-124378 A WO2005 / 073322 JP 2008-127327 A WO2009 / 013864 JP 2004-2283 A JP 2006-306842 A

  As described above, there are many techniques related to vesicles and two-layer cosmetics, but they have the following problems. For example, in the technique of Patent Document 1, although it is excellent in the feeling of use, the odor change over time and the pH range for stabilizing the preparation are limited, and there are restrictions on the application to skin external preparations such as cosmetics. . In the technique of Patent Document 2, lysophospholipid is used as an emulsifier, and it does not relate to the formation of vesicles, and does not refer to bilayer separation. Furthermore, in the technique of Patent Document 3, a nanoemulsion composed of lysophospholipids and phospholipids is formed, and liposomes are formed depending on the blending ratio. However, the blending ratio is limited, and their storage stability is not sufficient. In the technique of Patent Document 4, vesicles are formed and the feeling of use and storage stability are sufficient, but there is no mention of two-layer separation. Furthermore, the techniques of Patent Documents 5 and 6 are two-layer cosmetics of an emulsified layer and an aqueous layer, which are excellent in feeling of use, redispersibility during use, and storage stability, but do not contain vesicles.

  For this reason, it is desired to develop a cosmetic material that forms a vesicle having an excellent moisturizing effect such as a liposome and having excellent storage stability, and also has an aesthetic appearance that allows the vesicle to settle and separate into two layers. It was.

  In this situation, the present inventor has intensively studied, and as a result, by preparing a vesicle containing lysophospholipid, phospholipid, cholesterol and / or phytosterol as a main constituent at a predetermined ratio, the vesicle settles and forms two layers. Excellent aesthetics of appearance such as separation, excellent separation between two layers when standing, and when used by shaking, the vesicles are re-dispersed in a soft-agglomerated state, resulting in a thick feeling of use. It has been found that it has excellent massage properties, and further has excellent vesicle redispersibility, storage stability, and moisturizing feeling on the skin, and has completed the present invention. Further, by containing a polyhydric alcohol, the storage stability of the vesicle and the moisturizing feeling on the skin are excellent.

That is, the present invention includes the following components (A) to (C);
(A) A lysophospholipid (B) phospholipid (C) a cosmetic comprising a vesicle comprising cholesterol and / or phytosterol as a main component, wherein the blending mass ratio A / B of the component (A) and the component (B) Is 1.5 or more and 8 or less, and the blending mass ratio A / C of the component (A) and the component (C) is 1.5 or more and 8 or less. The present invention relates to a cosmetic characterized in that the vesicle is redispersed as a result.

  Furthermore, it is related with the cosmetics characterized by including the vesicle which mix | blended the polyhydric alcohol as a component (D).

  The cosmetic of the present invention is a cosmetic that is excellent in two-layer separation property and storage stability of vesicles, and further has a moisturizing feeling.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The lysophospholipid of component (A) used in the present invention is one of enzyme-modified phospholipids and is a phospholipid in which the ester bond at the 2-position is hydrolyzed by phospholipase. Lysophospholipids have different chemical properties than phospholipids with double-chain fatty acids. The component (A) is used as a vesicle component in the present invention and is not particularly limited as long as it is used in ordinary cosmetics. Specifically, soy lysophospholipid, hydrogenated soybean Examples include lysophospholipids, egg yolk lysophospholipids, hydrogenated egg yolk lysophospholipids, and the like, and these lysophospholipids can be used singly or in combination of two or more. The lysophospholipid used in the present invention has a lysophospholipid lysolysis rate (ratio of lysophospholipid in all phospholipids) of 60% or more, and the purity of phosphatidylcholine in the lysophospholipid (hereinafter referred to as “PC purity”). ) Is preferably 20% or more. Specific products include NIKKOL Resinol LL-20 provided by Nikko Chemicals, LP70H provided by Nippon Seika, and egg yolk lysolecithin LPC-1 provided by Kewpie.

  The blending amount of the component (A) in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.75 to 4.0% by mass (hereinafter abbreviated as “%” in units), particularly 1.5 to 2.0%. More preferred. If it is this range, the vesicle which is more excellent in storage stability can be formed, and cosmetics with high two-layer separability can be obtained.

  The phospholipid of component (B) used in the present invention is used as a vesicle component, and by blending this, it has excellent penetration and moisture retention to the skin, and crystallized component (C) is precipitated. It can suppress and improve the storage stability of vesicles. Examples of phospholipids include, for example, glycerophospholipids such as phosphatidylcholine (i.e. lecithin), phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylinositol, phosphatidylglycerol, diphosphatidylglycerol, phosphatidic acid, and hydrogenated products thereof. Can be used singly or in combination of two or more. Since these components are present in high concentrations in soybeans and egg yolks, those obtained by purifying soybeans or egg yolks, and hydrogenated products thereof are suitable. Particularly preferred is hydrogenated soybean phospholipid. Specific products include NIKKOL Resinol S-10EZ provided by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., HSL 70 provided by YMC Co., Ltd., Basis LS-60HR provided by Nisshin Oilio Group Co., Ltd., provided by Kewpie Co., Ltd. And egg yolk lecithin PL-100P.

  Although the compounding quantity of the component (B) in this invention is not specifically limited, 0.25 to 1.5% is preferable and 0.5 to 1.3% is more preferable. Within this range, a cosmetic with a higher moisturizing feeling can be obtained.

  The component (C) cholesterol and / or phytosterol used in the present invention contributes to the stability of the bilayer structure in the formation of vesicles, and the storage stability of the vesicles can be improved by adding this. . Cholesterol is generally purified from a natural product, and cholesterol purified from any natural product can be used in the present invention. The phytosterols can be used as long as they are generally classified as phytosterols (plant sterols), and those containing campesterol, sitosterol, stigmasteranol and the like can be preferably exemplified. Such components can be obtained by extracting germs of grains and the like with an organic solvent and removing the water-soluble part. However, commercially available products can be purchased and used.

  Although the compounding quantity of the component (C) in this invention is not specifically limited, 0.25 to 1.5% is preferable and 0.5 to 1.3% is more preferable. If it is this range, the vesicle which is more excellent in storage stability can be formed, and the cosmetics with a high moisturizing feeling can be obtained.

  The blending mass ratio A / B of the component (A) and the component (B) of the vesicle in the cosmetic of the present invention is 1.5 or more and 8 or less, and if it is 1.5 to 4, further preservation of the vesicle. Stability and two-layer separation are high. Further, the blending mass ratio A / C of the component (A) and the component (C) of the vesicle in the cosmetic of the present invention is 1.5 or more and 8 or less, and if it is 1.5 to 4, further vesicles Storage stability and two-layer separability are high.

  In the present invention, a vesicle excellent in storage stability and usability can be formed by further blending a polyhydric alcohol as the component (D). Examples of such polyhydric alcohols include, but are not limited to, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, glycerin, diglycerin, sorbitol and the like, among which dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol is particularly preferred. Although the compounding quantity of the component (D) in this invention is not specifically limited, 5-25% is preferable and especially 10-20% is more preferable.

  The cosmetic of the present invention contains water in addition to the above components. Water is used as a dispersion medium for components (A) to (C), and is an essential component for cosmetics containing vesicles, and the specific content thereof is the content of components (A) to (C). Although it is appropriately determined depending on the amount, it is generally 60 to 80%.

  The cosmetic of the present invention has good storage stability even when an electrolyte is blended, and an improvement in two-layer separation is also seen. The electrolyte is blended for the purpose of imparting a moisturizing effect, anti-flame effect, or whitening effect, and as an electrolyte having a moisturizing effect, organic compounds such as urea, amino acids, lactic acid, citric acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and the like And metal salts such as potassium, sodium, magnesium and calcium, and inorganic salts such as sodium chloride and magnesium chloride. Examples of the anti-inflammatory effect include organic compounds such as glycyrrhizic acid and pantothenic acid, and metal salts such as potassium, sodium, magnesium and calcium. Examples of electrolytes having a whitening effect include ascorbic acid phosphates, ascorbic acid alkyl esters, ascorbic acid sulfates, ascorbic acid glucosides, and ascorbic acids such as metal salts such as sodium, potassium, magnesium, and calcium. It is done. Furthermore, naturally derived aqueous solutions containing these electrolytes, such as deep ocean water and hot spring water, are also included. These can be used alone or in combination of two or more. Among these electrolytes, water-soluble ascorbic acid derivatives having a whitening effect, lactates having a moisturizing effect, pyrrolidone carboxylates and the like are preferable examples from the viewpoint of effects as cosmetics.

  Although the compounding quantity of the electrolyte mix | blended with the cosmetics of this invention is not specifically limited, 0.01 to 1% is preferable. If it is this range, the vesicle which is more excellent in storage stability will be formed, and also the cosmetics which are high in two-layer separability, and are excellent in a moisturizing effect, an anti-inflammatory effect, and a whitening effect can be obtained.

  Various methods can be used as the method for producing the cosmetic of the present invention. For example, at 80 ° C., the component (A), the component (B), and the component (C) are converted into the component (D). The dissolved material can be obtained by stirring and mixing in water dissolved at 80 ° C. and then gradually cooling to 40 ° C.

  In addition to the above-mentioned components, the cosmetics of the present invention include optional components that are blended in ordinary cosmetics within a range that does not interfere with the effects of the present invention, that is, alcohols, powders, water-soluble polymers, film forming agents. , Surfactants, oil-soluble gelling agents, organically modified clay minerals, resins, ultraviolet absorbers, preservatives, antibacterial agents, perfumes, antioxidants, pH adjusters, chelating agents, and the like can be blended.

  The viscosity of the cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 4000 mPa · s or less at 25 ° C., more preferably 3000 mPa · s or less, and even more preferably 1000 mPa · s or less. Within this range, the vesicles are excellent in two-layer separation and redispersibility and excellent in use feeling.

  Further, in consideration of use as a cosmetic, the sedimentation rate of the vesicle is preferably one in which the vesicle settles and separates into two layers within 24 hours after standing, more preferably within 12 hours, even more preferably. Are preferably separated into two layers within 6 hours.

  The use of the cosmetics of the present invention can be exemplified by skin care cosmetics such as skin lotions, milky lotions, beauty essences, massages, packs, etc., cosmetic base cosmetics, and the like. Moreover, the usage method includes a method of using by hand and fingers, a method of using it by impregnating a nonwoven fabric and the like.

  The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

Examples 1 to 28 and Comparative Examples 1 to 12: Cosmetic liquids Cosmetic liquids having the compositions shown in Tables 1 to 6 were prepared by the following production method. The two-layer separability, moisture retention, and storage stability of vesicles were evaluated by the following methods. The results are also shown in Tables 1-6.

(Production method)
A: Components (1) to (6) are heated to 80 ° C.
B: Components (7) and (8) are dissolved by heating at 80 ° C.
C: A is added to B and mixed and stirred with a paddle mixer to form a vesicle.
D: After cooling C to 40 ° C., a serum was obtained.

(Evaluation method: Two-layer separability)
After shaking the essences of Examples 1 to 28 and Comparative Examples 1 to 12 in a container and dispersing the vesicles, they were allowed to stand at room temperature (25 ° C.) for one day, and the appearance was visually observed. The determination was made according to the following (b) three-step criteria.

(B) Three-step criteria (evaluation): (judgment)
It was separated into two layers and the interface between the two layers was clear: ◎
Although separated into two layers, the interface between the two layers was unclear: ○
Not separated into two layers: ×

(Evaluation method: moisturizing feeling)
Twenty women in their 20s and 40s who are cosmetic evaluation specialist panels use the cosmetic liquids of Examples 1 to 28 and Comparative Examples 1 to 12, and evaluate the moisturizing feeling according to the following evaluation criteria, and give a score. For each panel, the average value was calculated from the total score of all the panels, and judged according to the following four-step criteria.
(Evaluation criteria)
Evaluation result: Score very good: 5 points good: 4 points Normal: 3 points Somewhat bad: 2 points bad: 1 point (Criteria)
Average score: 4.5 or higher rating: ◎
3.5 or more and less than 4.5: ○
1.5 or more and less than 3.5: △
Less than 1.5: ×

(Evaluation method: Storage stability of vesicles)
The storage stability of vesicles was evaluated by observing a Maltese cross image with a polarizing microscope. Specifically, based on the state immediately after preparation of the cosmetic liquids of Examples 1 to 28 and Comparative Examples 1 to 12, the number of maltese cloth images to be confirmed by observing what was allowed to stand at 40 ° C. for 6 months Was determined using the following (b) four-step criteria.

(B) Four-stage criteria (Judgment): (Evaluation)
◎: The quantity of the Maltese cross image was confirmed to be 80% or more.
○: The number of Maltese cross images was confirmed to be 60% or more and less than 80%
Δ: The number of Maltese cross images was confirmed to be 30% or more and less than 60%.
×: The number of Maltese cross images was confirmed to be less than 30%

  As is apparent from the results of Tables 1 to 5, Examples 1 to 28 are those in which vesicles were settled at the time of standing, and were excellent in two-layer separability and storage stability of vesicles, and were not sticky and moisturized. It was an excellent serum. On the other hand, Comparative Example 1 containing no component (A) did not form vesicles. Furthermore, Comparative Example 2 containing no component (B) formed vesicles, but did not have two layers, and the storage stability of the vesicles was poor. Comparative Example 3 containing no component (C) did not form vesicles. Next, Comparative Examples 4 to 7 in which the blending mass ratio of A / B or A / C was outside the range of 1.5 to 8 formed vesicles, and the storage stability was good even in observation over time. However, the vesicles did not settle and did not become two layers. Furthermore, although Comparative Examples 8-12 in which the blending mass ratio of A / B and A / C is outside the range of 1.5-8, all form vesicles, but the vesicles do not settle, so they do not become two layers. The storage stability was inferior, and cholesterol crystal precipitation and precipitation were observed in time-lapse observation.

[Example 29: lotion]
(Ingredient) (%)
1. Hydrogenated egg yolk lysophospholipid 0.4
2. Hydrogenated soybean phospholipid 0.1
3. Cholesterol 0.1
4). Dipropylene glycol 5.0
5. Purified water residue 6. Theanine 2.0
7). Glycerin 5.0
8). Ethanol 5.0
9. Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1
10. Fragrance 0.01
(Manufacturing method)
A: Components (1) to (4) are dissolved by heating at 80 ° C.
B: Component (5) is heated to 80 ° C.
C: A is added to B and vesicles are formed with mixing and stirring, and then cooled to 40 ° C.
D: Components (6) to (10) were added to and mixed with C to obtain a skin lotion.

  The lotion of Example 29 was a lotion that was excellent in storage stability and two-layer separability of the vesicles, re-dispersed during shaking, had no stickiness, and had excellent moisturizing feeling.

[Example 30: Cosmetic liquid]
(Ingredient) (%)
1. Hydrogenated soybean lysophospholipid 4.0
2. Hydrogenated egg yolk phospholipids 1.0
3. Cholesterol 1.0
4). Dipropylene glycol 15.0
5. Purified water 30.0
6). Glycerin 3.0
7). Ethanol 5.0
8). Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1
9. Fragrance 0.05
10. Sodium lactate 2.0
11. Sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate 2.0
12 Sodium chloride 0.1
13. Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside 0.1
14 Xanthan gum 0.05
15. Purified water balance (Manufacturing method)
A: Components (1) to (4) are dissolved by heating at 80 ° C.
B: Component (5) is heated to 80 ° C.
C: A is added to B and vesicles are formed with mixing and stirring, and then cooled to 40 ° C.
D: Disperse C with a microfluidizer.
E: (6) to (15) were added to D to obtain a cosmetic liquid.

  The essence of Example 30 was an essence excellent in vesicle storage stability and two-layer separability, re-dispersed during shaking, having no stickiness, and excellent moisturizing feeling.

[Example 31: Cosmetic liquid]
(Ingredient) (%)
1. Hydrogenated soybean lysophospholipid 2.4
2. Soy phospholipid 0.3
3. Phytosterol 0.3
4). Dipropylene glycol 20.0
5. Purified water 47.0
6). Dimethylpolysiloxane 30.0
(Manufacturing method)
A: Components (1) to (4) are dissolved by heating at 80 ° C.
B: Component (5) is heated to 80 ° C.
C: A is added to B and vesicles are formed with mixing and stirring, and then cooled to 40 ° C.
D: (6) was added to C to obtain a cosmetic liquid.

  The essence of Example 31 is a three-layer essence in which the vesicles settle in the lowermost layer and the silicon layer is present in the uppermost layer. The vesicles have excellent storage stability, and when shaken, the vesicles re-disperse and become sticky. It was a serum with excellent moisturizing feeling.

[Example 32: lotion]
(Ingredient) (%)
1. Hydrogenated soybean lysophospholipid 1.0
2. Hydrogenated soybean phospholipid 0.5
3. Cholesterol 0.5
4). Dipropylene glycol 5.0
5. Purified water residue 6. Theanine 2.0
7). Ethanol 5.0
8). Methylparaben 0.1
9. Carrageenan 0.1
10. Fragrance 0.01
(Manufacturing method)
A: Components (1) to (4) are dissolved by heating at 80 ° C.
B: Component (5) is heated to 80 ° C.
C: A is added to B and a vesicle composition is formed with mixing and stirring, and then cooled to 40 ° C.
D: Components (6) to (10) were added to and mixed with C to obtain a skin lotion.

  The lotion of Example 32 was a lotion having excellent storage stability and two-layer separability of the vesicle, re-dispersing the vesicle when shaken, having no stickiness, and excellent moisturizing feeling.

[Example 33: Lotion]
(Ingredient) (%)
1. Hydrogenated soybean lysophospholipid 2.0
2. Hydrogenated soybean phospholipid 1.2
3. Cholesterol 0.5
4). Dipropylene glycol 15.0
5. Purified water residue 6. Theanine 2.0
7). Ethanol 5.0
8). Methylparaben 0.1
9. Fragrance 0.01
10.1,2-pentanediol 2.0
11. Glycosyl trehalose aqueous solution 2.0
12 Glycerin 8.0
(Note 3) TORNARE (produced by Hayashibara Biochemical Research Institute)
(Manufacturing method)
A: Components (1) to (4) are dissolved by heating at 80 ° C.
B: Component (5) is heated to 80 ° C.
C: A is added to B and a vesicle composition is formed with mixing and stirring, and then cooled to 40 ° C.
D: Components (6) to (12) were added to C and mixed to obtain a skin lotion.

  The lotion of Example 33 was a lotion that was excellent in storage stability and two-layer separability of the vesicle, re-dispersed when shaken, had no stickiness, and had a good moisturizing feeling.

Claims (2)

The following components (A) to (C);
(A) A lysophospholipid (B) phospholipid (C) a cosmetic comprising a vesicle comprising cholesterol and / or phytosterol as a main component, wherein the blending mass ratio A / B of the component (A) and the component (B) Is 1.5 or more and 8 or less, and the blending mass ratio A / C of the component (A) and the component (C) is 1.5 or more and 8 or less. Cosmetics characterized in that the vesicles are redispersed as a result.   Furthermore, the cosmetics of Claim 1 containing the vesicle which mix | blended the polyhydric alcohol as a component (D).