JP2010090072A - Powder cosmetic and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a powder cosmetic which can be readily transferred to a puff and is excellent in impression at use (smoothness, fitting to the skin, etc.) and impact resistance, and a method for producing the same. <P>SOLUTION: The powder cosmetic contains 75-95 mass% powder component and 5-25 mass% oily component as a binder, provided that the cosmetic contains 0.5-20.0 mass% spherical powder, based on the total mass of the cosmetic, as a part of the powder component. Here, a portion or all of the spherical powder exists in the cosmetic in a state wherein the entire powder surface is not covered by the oily component. A kneading torque value, determined by a specific testing method using the oily component and the powder component excluding the spherical powder, is 0.015-0.05 kg.m. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2010,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a powder cosmetic and a method for producing the same, and more particularly to improvement in puffing, usability and impact resistance of powder cosmetics such as foundations.

  Conventionally, in the field of makeup cosmetics such as foundations and eye shadows, powder cosmetics in which a large amount of powder is blended and solidified with oil are widely used. Conventional methods for producing such powder cosmetics are roughly divided into the following. (1) A powder component and an oil component as a binder are mixed using a stirrer and the resulting mixture is crushed by a pulverizer and then filled into a metal or resin inner dish, or further A method of dry press molding (dry manufacturing method). (2) A method of performing wet mixing by adding a powder component and an oily component to a volatile solvent to form a slurry, filling the obtained slurry in a container, and performing wet molding using a suction press or the like (wet manufacturing method). (3) A method in which a volatile solvent is removed from the slurry obtained by the wet mixing to obtain a dry powder, and the dry powder is further pulverized by a pulverizer, followed by dry molding (wet / dry process).

Although the powder cosmetics obtained by the conventional production methods described above are relatively simple in production method and inexpensive in production cost, if the amount of oil is increased, the cosmetics can be caulked during use (pressure load during puff removal). Agglomeration of the powder) due to the occurrence of puff, and there was a problem that the puffing was poor. Therefore, in recent years, regarding the wet / dry process described above, a slurry obtained by wet mixing is dried using a specific drying apparatus, and the obtained dry powder is dry-molded, whereby powder excellent in taking out into a puff is obtained. It has been reported that cosmetics can be obtained (see Patent Document 1). However, even in the powder cosmetic obtained by this manufacturing method, it is the actual situation that it is used by adjusting to a powder-oil composition region in which caking does not easily occur (that is, the puff can be easily removed). Although it is excellent in terms of removal, there was room for improvement in terms of usability such as smoothness, fit to the skin, and impact resistance such as cracking when dropped.
JP 2007-055990 A

  The present invention has been made in view of the prior art, and the problems to be solved are that it is easy to remove the puff, and has excellent usability (smoothness, fit to skin, etc.) and impact resistance. It is providing the powder cosmetics which combined these, and its manufacturing method.

  In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have conducted intensive studies by paying attention to the powder-oil composition in the powder cosmetic and the oil-coated state of the powder. As a result, in the conventional wet / dry process, a spherical powder not coated with oil is added to the dry powder prepared in a specific powder-oil composition region with a relatively high kneading torque that can cause caking.・ By mixing, it is possible to make it difficult for caking to occur, and it has been found that the powder cosmetics having excellent usability and impact resistance can be obtained while remarkably improving the removal to the puff. The present invention has been completed.

That is, the powder cosmetic according to the present invention is a powder cosmetic containing 75 to 95% by mass of a powder component and 5 to 25% by mass of an oily component as a binder, and a spherical powder as a part of the powder component. Is contained in the cosmetic in a state where the entire powder surface is not covered with the oily component, and 0.5 to 20.0% by mass in the total amount of the cosmetic. A kneading torque value measured by the following test method 1 using the powder component and the oil component excluding the component is 0.015 to 0.05 kg · m.
(Test method 1)
Using various powder components (excluding spherical powder) and various oil components of the same type and mass as those contained in 100 g of the powder cosmetic, the various powder components contained in the torque measuring device The oil component was added dropwise at 70 ° C. and 2 ml / min. At the same time, the torque value was continuously measured while kneading at a rotational speed of 200 rpm, and the measured values when all the various oil components were added were measured. The kneading torque value is used.
In the powder cosmetic, it is preferable that the spherical powder is a spherical silicone powder.

  Moreover, the method for producing a powder cosmetic according to the present invention comprises a slurry preparation step in which a first powder component and an oily component as a binder are dispersed and mixed in a volatile solvent to form a slurry, and the slurry preparation The slurry obtained in the process is dried to remove the volatile solvent to obtain a dry powder, and the second powder component including the spherical powder is added and mixed in the dry powder obtained in the drying process. A spherical powder addition step, and a powder cosmetic is produced using the dry powder mixture obtained by the spherical powder addition step.

Moreover, in the manufacturing method of the said powder cosmetics, the powder component used for the said slurry preparation process is 55-94.5 mass% in cosmetics whole quantity, and the oil-based component as a binder is 5-25 mass% in cosmetics whole quantity. The spherical powder used in the spherical powder addition step is preferably 0.5 to 20.0% by mass in the total amount of the cosmetic.
In the method for manufacturing a powder cosmetic, it is preferable that the spherical powder is a spherical silicone powder.
Further, in the method for producing a powder cosmetic, the drying device used in the drying step forms the slurry into fine droplets by mechanical shearing force, and blows a dry gas to the fine droplets to dry the slurry. It is preferable that the drying apparatus perform the above.

  According to the present invention, in a powder cosmetic produced by a wet / dry process, an oil is coated in a dry powder prepared in a specific powder-oil composition region having a relatively high kneading torque value capable of causing caking. By adding and mixing a spherical powder that is not added separately, it is possible to obtain a powder cosmetic that can be easily removed into a puff and has both excellent usability and impact resistance.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail, but the present invention is not limited thereto.
First, the relationship between the powder-oil composition and the kneading torque value in the powder cosmetic will be described. FIG. 1 shows a schematic diagram of a kneading torque-oil content plot (upper part of FIG. 1) in a general powder cosmetic and an explanatory diagram (lower part of FIG. 1) of a mixed state of powder and oil. In the production of powder cosmetics, when the value of kneading torque is continuously measured while increasing the amount of oil added to a certain amount of powder, it is shown in the kneading torque-oil content plot at the top of FIG. As usual, two local maxima appear. Further, as shown in the lower part of FIG. 1, the mixing state of the powder and the oil roughly matches the change in the kneading torque-oil content plot, and changes as the oil content increases.

  Here, it is known that caking of the powder cosmetic is likely to occur in the powder-oil composition region where the kneading torque value is high. For example, as shown in FIG. 1, in the powder-oil composition region where the kneading torque value is high near the first maximum value in the kneading torque-oil content plot, the mixed state of the powder-oil content is a region called Funicular I ( The solid phase, liquid phase, and gas phase are all in a continuous phase), and the powder cosmetic composition of the powder-oil composition in this region is in a state in which almost the entire surface of the powder is coated with oil, and does not cause caking during use. It tends to occur and is difficult to remove with a puff. In addition, since the kneading torque value increases and the load on the apparatus also increases, the conventional powder cosmetics tend to avoid the use of the powder-oil composition in this region. In addition, by using a powder-oil component composition region (Pendular region) with less oil content and low kneading torque value (specifically, 0.01 kg · m or less), it eliminates caking problems and improves usability. ing.

  Such a conventional powder cosmetic composition having a low kneading torque value in the powder-oil composition region is not so problematic in terms of caking, but the amount of oil in the powder is small, and there are usability points such as smoothness and fit. It was difficult to say that the product was satisfactory enough. In addition, cracks are likely to occur when dropped, and there is room for improvement in terms of impact resistance. On the other hand, although the effect of improving the usability is expected by blending the spherical powder into the powder cosmetic, there is a problem that the impact resistance generally deteriorates. In addition, for example, when an elastic powder such as a spherical silicone elastic powder is used, repulsion to the press stress during dry molding occurs, so that the moldability is difficult and it is not very suitable for actual use.

  In view of these problems, the present inventors have investigated a suitable powder-oil composition in powder cosmetics. As a result, the kneading torque value, which has been conventionally avoided, is high (specifically 0.015 kg · m). It was found that superior usability and impact resistance were obtained in the above-mentioned powder-oil composition region as compared with conventional products. However, in such a powder-oil composition region having a high kneading torque value, as described above, the problem of caking occurs, so it is difficult to remove with a puff, and the usability as a powder cosmetic is inferior. Become. Then, when the present inventors further investigated the elimination of caking, even in the powder-oil composition region with a high kneading torque value, as long as it is within the range of 0.015 to 0.05 kg · m, By adding and mixing a spherical powder that is not coated with oil, caking can be made difficult to occur, and the ease of removal to the puff is significantly improved while maintaining excellent usability and impact resistance. I found out.

  In the conventional wet / dry manufacturing method, usually, wet mixing is performed by adding a powder component and an oil component to a volatile solvent to form a slurry, and the volatile solvent is removed from the resulting slurry to obtain a dry powder. Powder cosmetics are manufactured by dry-molding the obtained dry powder. On the other hand, according to the present invention, in a specific powder-oil composition region in the range of 0.015 to 0.05 kg · m where the kneading torque value is relatively high, the powder component and the oil component are mixed in a volatile solvent. A dry powder mixture is prepared by adding and mixing a spherical powder not coated with oil to the dry powder (oil-coated powder component) obtained by wet mixing to prepare a slurry and drying this slurry. By dry-molding, it is possible to obtain a powder cosmetic that is easy to remove into a puff and has both excellent usability and impact resistance.

  That is, the powder cosmetic according to the present invention is a powder cosmetic containing 75 to 95% by mass of a powder component and 5 to 25% by mass of an oily component as a binder, and a spherical powder as a part of the powder component. Is contained in the cosmetic in a state where the entire powder surface is not covered with the oily component, and 0.5 to 20.0% by mass in the total amount of the cosmetic. A kneading torque value measured by a specific test method using the powder component and the oily component excluding the component is 0.015 to 0.05 kg · m.

Powder component The powder component used in the powder cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is generally used in powder cosmetics. Examples of the powder component include talc, kaolin, sericite (sericite), muscovite, phlogopite, synthetic mica, saucite, biotite, fired talc, fired sericite, fired muscovite, fired phlogopite, permiculite, Magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, metal tungstate, magnesium, silica, zeolite, barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate (baked gypsum), calcium phosphate, Fluorine apatite, hydroxyapatite, ceramic powder, metal soap (eg, zinc myristate, calcium palmitate, aluminum stearate), boron nitride, photochromic titanium oxide (titanium dioxide sintered with iron oxide), reduced zinc white Organic powder (For example, silicone elastomer powder, silicone powder, silicone resin-coated silicone elastomer powder, polyamide resin powder (nylon powder), polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polystyrene powder, copolymer resin powder of styrene and acrylic acid, benzoguanamine resin Powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powder, cellulose powder, etc.); inorganic white pigment (eg, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, etc.); inorganic red pigment (eg, iron oxide (Bengara), iron titanate, etc.); inorganic brown Pigments (for example, γ-iron oxide, etc.); inorganic yellow pigments (for example, yellow iron oxide, ocher, etc.); inorganic black pigments (for example, black iron oxide, low-order titanium oxide, etc.); inorganic purple pigments (for example, , Mango violet, cobalt violet, etc.); inorganic green pigments (eg chromium oxide, water) Chromium blue, cobalt titanate, etc.); inorganic blue pigments (eg ultramarine, bitumen, etc.); pearl pigments (eg, bismuth oxychloride, fish scale foil, titanium mica, iron oxide-coated mica titanium, low-order titanium oxide-coated mica titanium) , Photochromic titanium mica, talc instead of mica as substrate, glass, synthetic fluorine phlogopite, silica, bismuth oxychloride, etc. In addition to titanium oxide as coating, low-order titanium oxide, colored titanium oxide Iron oxide, alumina, silica, zirconia, zinc oxide, cobalt oxide, aluminum, etc., functional pearl pigment, pearl pigment surface coated with resin particles (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 11-92688), pearl pigment surface Coated with aluminum hydroxide particles (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2002-146238), on the surface of the pearl pigment Those coated with zinc oxide particles (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2003-261421), pearl pigment surfaces coated with barium sulfate particles (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2003-61229), etc .; metal powder pigments (for example, aluminum powder, copper powder, etc.); Organic pigments such as zirconium, barium or aluminum lakes (for example, red 201, red 202, red 204, red 205, red 220, red 226, red 228, red 405, orange 203, orange Organic pigments such as No. 204, Yellow No. 205, Yellow No. 401, and Blue No. 404, Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Red No. 227, Red No. 230, Red No. 401, Red No. 505, Orange 205 No. 4, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 5, Yellow No. 202, Yellow No. 203, Green No. 3 and Blue No. 1); natural pigments (for example, , Chlorophyll, beta-carotene, etc.) and the like. In addition, the said powder component can be used 1 type or in mixture of 2 or more types.

  The compounding quantity of a powder component is 75-95 mass% in cosmetics whole quantity, More preferably, it is 75-90 mass%. If the blending amount of the powder component is less than 75% by mass, the oil content may be excessively increased, resulting in a feeling of stickiness and the like. May be difficult to spread evenly on the skin.

Spherical powder The powder cosmetic of the present invention contains spherical powder as a part of the powder component. That is, the powder cosmetic of the present invention is produced by a wet / dry process, and is obtained by drying a slurry prepared by wet-mixing the powder component and the oil component in a volatile solvent. A dry powder mixture in which a powder component including a spherical powder not coated with oil is further added to and mixed with the powder (powder component coated with an oil component) is dry-molded. Here, in the powder cosmetic of the present invention, a powder component (hereinafter referred to as a first powder component) to be subjected to wet mixing, and a powder component (hereinafter referred to as a second powder component) containing a spherical powder added later. , Included as a powder component. That is, although the second powder component needs to contain a spherical powder, the first powder component may or may not contain a spherical powder. Therefore, in the powder cosmetic of the present invention, the blending amount of the spherical powder is indicated as the total amount of the spherical powder contained in each of the first powder component and the second powder component.

  Moreover, the 1st powder component provided to the said wet mixing will exist in the state in which the whole powder surface was coat | covered with the oil component by mixing with an oil component in a volatile solvent. On the other hand, the spherical powder added and mixed in the dry powder as the second powder component usually has the entire powder surface covered with oil even though some oil is adsorbed on the powder surface. There is no. For this reason, in the powder cosmetics of this invention, a part or all of spherical powder exists in the state in which the whole powder surface is not coat | covered with the said oil component. In addition, as a spherical powder, it is preferable that the whole quantity is contained in the 2nd powder component added later.

  In addition, about the spherical powder mix | blended in arbitrary powder cosmetics, whether the whole powder surface is coat | covered with the oil component, for example, SEM-EDX analyzer (energy dispersive X-ray element analyzer: made by Horiba Ltd.) ) Can be used. For example, when carbon distribution measurement (mapping) for powder cosmetics is performed using this apparatus, when the entire surface is covered with oil, the presence of carbon derived from oil on the entire surface of the powder is present. Confirmed (when carbon is mapped by color shading, the entire powder surface is displayed dark). On the other hand, if the powder surface is not covered with oil at all, the presence of carbon will not be confirmed (mapping carbon by color shading will not change the display of the entire powder surface).

  The spherical powder used in the powder cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is generally used in powder cosmetics. For example, an organopolysiloxane elastomer spherical powder or a composite spherical powder using this as a mother powder And spherical polyurethane powder or composite spherical powder using this as a mother powder. Of these, spherical silicone powder can be suitably used. Examples of commercially available spherical silicone powders include Trefil E-505C, Trefil E-506C, Trefil E-506S, Trefil HP40T (above, Toray Dow Corning Silicone), Tospearl 145A (manufactured by Toshiba Silicone), silicone Powder KSP-100, KSP-300 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) etc. are mentioned. In particular, it is preferable to use a spherical silicone powder having elasticity, more specifically, a spherical silicone powder having a rubber hardness (JIS K6253) of 20 or more. For example, Trefill E-506S (rubber hardness 30), Trefill HP40T (rubber hardness 30), silicone powder KSP-100 (rubber hardness 34), KSP-300 (rubber hardness 40) among the above-mentioned commercial products correspond to this. . The average particle diameter of the spherical powder is not particularly limited, but is preferably about 2 to 15 μm. If it is smaller than 2 μm, the effect of addition may not be obtained, and if it is larger than 15 μm, the usability and impact resistance may be deteriorated.

  The compounding quantity of spherical powder is 0.5-20 mass% in cosmetics whole quantity, More preferably, it is 1-10 mass%. If the blending amount of the spherical powder is less than 0.5% by mass, the powder cosmetic may cause caking and may be difficult to remove with a puff. On the other hand, if it exceeds 20% by mass, the powder will be bulky and will be on the skin. It may be difficult to spread evenly.

Oily component In the powder cosmetic of the present invention, the oily component used as a binder between powders is not particularly limited as long as it is generally used in powder cosmetics. Examples of the oil component include avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, persic oil, wheat germ oil, southern castor oil, castor oil, linseed oil , Natural vegetable oils such as safflower oil, cottonseed oil, eno oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, cinnabari oil, Japanese kiri oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, etc .; triglycerin, glycerin trioctanoate, Liquid fats such as glycerin triisopalmitate; cacao butter, coconut oil, horse tallow, hardened coconut oil, palm oil, beef tallow, sheep fat, hardened beef tallow, palm kernel oil, pork tallow, beef bone fat, owl kernel oil, hardened Animal and vegetable liquid oils such as oil, beef leg fat, mole, hardened castor oil, beeswax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, carnauba wax, bayberry wax, ibotarou, Wax, montan wax, nukarou, lanolin, kapok wax, lanolin acetate, liquid lanolin, sugarcane wax, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, hexyl laurate, reduced lanolin, jojoba wax, hard lanolin, shellac wax, POE lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate, POE cholesterol Waxes such as ether, lanolin fatty acid polyethylene glycol, POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether; hydrocarbon oils such as liquid paraffin, ozokerite, squalene, pristane, paraffin, ceresin, squalene, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax; isopropyl myristate, octanoic acid Cetyl, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, laurin Hexyl, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyl decyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, lanolin acetate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearylate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexylate, di- Pentaerythritol fatty acid ester, N-alkyl glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin di-2-heptylundecanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexylate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate , Pentane erythritol tetra-2-ethylhexylate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexylate, trimethylotriisostearate Rupropane, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceride tri-2-heptylundecanoate, castor oil fatty acid methyl ester, oleic acid oil, cetostearyl alcohol, acetoglyceride, palmitic acid 2 -Heptylundecyl, diisobutyl adipate, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid-2-octyldodecyl ester, di-2-heptylundecyl adipate, ethyl laurate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, 2-hexyl myristate Synthesis of decyl, 2-hexyldecyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, amyl acetate, triethyl citrate, etc. Steal oil; dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane decamethylpolysiloxane, silicone oil such as dodecamethylpolysiloxane, tetramethyltetrahydrogenpolysiloxane, etc., fluorine resin, acrylic resin, etc. It is done. In addition, the said oil component can be used 1 type or in mixture of 2 or more types.

  The compounding amount of the oil component is 5 to 25% by mass, more preferably 10 to 20% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. If the blending amount of the oil component is less than 5% by mass, it may not be sufficient in terms of usability such as adhesion to the skin, impact resistance, etc. On the other hand, if it exceeds 25% by weight, it will become sticky. In some cases, the feeling of use may be deteriorated, such as causing a feeling of touch.

Kneading torque value Moreover, in the powder cosmetic of the present invention, the kneading torque value measured by the following test method 1 using the powder component and the oil component excluding the spherical powder is 0.015 to 0. It is characterized by being 05 kg · m.
(Test method 1)
Using various powder components (excluding spherical powder) and various oil components of the same type and mass as those contained in 100 g of the powder cosmetic, the various powder components contained in the torque measuring device The oil component was added dropwise at 70 ° C. and 2 ml / min. At the same time, the torque value was continuously measured while kneading at a rotational speed of 200 rpm, and the measured values when all the various oil components were added were measured. The kneading torque value is used.

  As described above, the powder cosmetic composition of the present invention is a specific powder-oil component composition region having a relatively high kneading torque value that provides excellent usability and impact resistance. By separately adding and mixing, caking is less likely to occur, the puffing ability is remarkably improved, and excellent puffing ability and excellent usability and impact resistance are obtained.

  For this reason, in the powder cosmetic of the present invention, the kneading torque value measured by the test method 1 using the powder component excluding the spherical powder and the oil component is 0.015 to 0.05 kg · m. It is characterized by. When the kneading torque value is less than 0.015 kg · m, the usability such as fit may be inferior. On the other hand, when the kneading torque value exceeds 0.05 kg · m, the occurrence of caking cannot be suppressed even after the spherical powder is added later. In some cases, the load on the apparatus becomes too high, and the powder component and the oil component cannot be uniformly mixed. The kneading torque value is more preferably 0.02 to 0.04 kg · m.

  More specifically, regarding the kneading torque value, by using a commercially available absorption measuring device (for example, S410D: Asahi Research Institute, Inc.), any powder under each measurement condition defined in Test Method 1 above. The kneading torque value for the cosmetic can be measured.

Production Method Hereinafter, a method for producing the powder cosmetic of the present invention will be described.
The method for producing a powder cosmetic of the present invention is obtained by a slurry preparation step in which a first powder component and an oily component as a binder are dispersed and mixed in a volatile solvent to form a slurry, and the slurry preparation step. The resulting slurry is dried to remove the volatile solvent to obtain a dried powder, and the second powder component including the spherical powder is added to and mixed with the dried powder obtained by the drying step. And an adding step.

Slurry preparation step First, a first powder component and an oily component as a binder are dispersed and mixed in a volatile solvent to prepare a slurry. In addition, the kind of powder used as a 1st powder component is not specifically limited, It is not necessary to contain the spherical powder.
Here, as a preparation method of a slurry, the following methods are mentioned, for example.
(A) A powder and oil component previously dry-mixed / pulverized with a Henschel mixer (registered trademark) or pulverizer are added to a volatile solvent, and a disper mixer, a homogenizer, a planetary mixer, and a twin-screw kneader Method of mixing / dispersing by etc.
(B) A method in which a powder and an oily component are added to a volatile solvent and, if necessary, premixed with a disper mixer or the like, and then pulverized / ground / dispersed with a medium stirring mill.
(C) A partly specific powder component having strong cohesive properties such as polymer elastic powder and fine particle powder is added to a volatile solvent. If necessary, this is premixed with a disper mixer or the like, and then a medium stirring mill is used. A method of obtaining a dispersion by pulverizing / pulverizing / dispersing, adding other powders and oily components to the dispersion, and further performing treatment using a wet mixer or a medium stirring mill.

  In the slurry preparation step, it is particularly preferable to use a medium stirring mill (for example, (B) and (C) above). The medium agitation mill is a medium in which a dispersion liquid composed of a powder component (and an oil component) and a solvent is contained in a container filled with a solid dispersion medium (medium) such as beads and the liquid in the container is agitated. The powder component is crushed / pulverized / dispersed by impact force, frictional force, and the like. The reason for crushing / pulverizing / dispersing the powder and oil component in a volatile solvent using a medium agitating mill is that the mixing / dispersing state of the powder component and the oil component can be increased, and the surface of the powder component can be evenly distributed. This is because the oil can be coated, so that a powder cosmetic with good usability can be obtained. It is also possible to easily pulverize a highly cohesive powder and disperse it uniformly in a volatile solvent.

  Examples of the medium agitation mill include a batch type bead mill such as a basket mill, a horizontal type, a vertical type, an annular type continuous type bead mill, a sand grinder mill, a ball mill, and Micros (registered trademark). However, it can be used without particular limitation as long as it meets the object of the present invention. In other words, when powder components that are in an agglomerated state are blended, there is no particular limitation as long as they can agglomerate these powder components and stir and disperse them to a state close to primary particles, allowing oil to adhere uniformly to the powder surface. can do.

  The medium used in the medium agitating mill is preferably beads, and beads made of glass, alumina, zirconia, steel, flint stone and the like can be used, and zirconia is particularly preferable. Further, as the size of the beads, those having a diameter of about 0.5 to 10 mm are usually preferably used, but those having a diameter of about 2 mm to 5 mm are preferably used in the present invention. If the bead diameter is too small, crushing of extender pigments such as mica and talc will proceed excessively, adversely affecting the feel of use, and the hardness after molding will become difficult to remove, caking etc. It becomes easy to cause. On the other hand, if the size of the beads is too large, the powder components cannot be sufficiently aggregated, and it is difficult to uniformly coat the oil.

  The volatile solvent used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but purified water, cyclic silicone, ethanol, light liquid isoparaffin, lower alcohol, ethers, LPG, fluorocarbon, N-methylpyrrolidone, fluoroalcohol, volatile linear chain Silicone, next-generation chlorofluorocarbon, and the like. One or more of these solvents may be mixed and used appropriately according to the characteristics of the powder component to be used and the characteristics of the oil component.

  Moreover, although the blending amount of the powder component and the oil component in the slurry preparation step depends on the types of the oil component and the powder component to be used, the powder component is 55 to 94.5% by mass in the total amount of the cosmetic, and the oil component is It is preferable to adjust so that it may become 5-25 mass% in the cosmetics whole quantity. By adjusting to be within the above range, excellent usability can be obtained. In addition, if the blending amount of the powder component increases, it may become bulky and it may be difficult to spread it evenly on the skin, while if the blending amount of the oil component increases, it may cause a sticky feeling and the use feeling is poor. There is a case. Moreover, although the compounding quantity of a volatile solvent is based also on the polarity of a volatile solvent to be used, specific gravity, etc., it is important to ensure the fluidity | liquidity of the grade which can be processed with a medium stirring mill.

  In addition, the amount ratio of the powder component and the oil component in the slurry preparation step is preferably 0.015 to 0.05 kg · m, with the kneading torque value measured by the test method 1 using the powder component and the oil component. Satisfies 0.02 to 0.04 kg · m. By adjusting the amount ratio of the powder component to the oil component so that the kneading torque value falls within the above range, a powder cosmetic material having excellent usability such as smoothness and fit can be obtained.

Following the drying step , the slurry obtained in the slurry preparation step is dried to remove the volatile solvent to obtain a dry powder.
The drying method is not particularly limited as long as the volatile solvent can be removed, and natural drying may be used. However, a drying apparatus may be used to increase the processing time and efficiency of solvent removal. preferable.

  In addition, as the drying apparatus used in the present invention, a drying apparatus for drying the slurry by making the slurry into fine droplets by mechanical shearing force and blowing dry gas into the fine droplets is particularly preferably used. Can do. By using such a drying apparatus, the powder component hardly aggregates during drying. For this reason, the powder cosmetics excellent in the usability at the time of application to skin can be obtained. Moreover, since it is not necessary to crush again after drying, it is excellent in productivity and work environment. Note that such a drying apparatus is described in detail in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2007-55990.

  Such a drying apparatus is of a type called a flash dryer. For example, a spin flash dryer manufactured by APV Nordic Anhyro, a dry meister manufactured by Hosokawa Micron, or a vertical stirring dryer manufactured by Tsukishima Kikai Co., Ltd. Etc. In addition, the drying apparatus used suitably for this invention is not this limitation, What is necessary is just to have a shearing mechanism in a system, and may be vertical / horizontal type.

  The temperature of the drying gas used in the drying apparatus can be changed depending on the boiling point of the volatile solvent used. In addition, since the drying efficiency increases as the temperature of the drying gas increases, it is desirable to set the temperature to a high temperature within a range that does not adversely affect the modification of the dry powder constituents due to heat.

  In addition, since an inert gas such as nitrogen gas or Ar gas is sealed inside the drying apparatus, the explosion-proof property is improved, so that the working environment is also improved. In addition, the solvent can be recovered by incorporating a solvent recovery mechanism such as a condenser.

Following the spherical powder addition step , the second powder component containing the spherical powder is added and mixed into the dry powder obtained by the drying step. The second powder component only needs to contain a spherical powder, and may contain other powder components, but the spherical powder content is preferably 90% by mass or more, and the total amount is a spherical powder. Preferably there is.

  The mixing method of the dry powder and the second powder component is not particularly limited, but it is preferable to mix the dry powder and the second powder component in a dry mixer having a relatively low shearing force such as a Henschel mixer or a Nauter mixer. When using a mixer with relatively strong shearing force, such as an atomizer, ball mill, roll mill, etc., the second powder component added later is uniformly coated with the oil contained in the dry powder, and the effect of the subsequent addition is sufficient. It may not be obtained.

  Here, the addition amount of the second powder component is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.5 to 20% by mass, more preferably 0.5 to 10% by mass in the total amount of the cosmetic. . If the blending amount of the second powder component is less than 0.5% by mass, the powder cosmetic may cause caking and may be difficult to remove with a puff. It may be difficult to spread evenly on top.

  In the dry powder obtained in the drying step, the oil component is uniformly coated on the powder component surface. By adding and mixing spherical powder that is not coated with oil to such a dry powder, spherical powder that is not coated with oil is locally present in the powder cosmetic. As a result, the obtained dry powder mixture is less likely to cause caking, and the puffing ability is significantly improved. In addition, in the slurry preparation step, it is possible to obtain excellent usability and impact resistance by using a specific amount of powder component and oil component.

  Moreover, in the manufacturing method of the powder cosmetics of this invention, powder cosmetics are manufactured using the dry powder mixture obtained by the said spherical powder addition process. More specifically, for example, the dry powder mixture is filled in a container and solidified by dry molding. As a solidification method, conventionally known dry press molding or the like can be used. Further, the blending amount of the dry powder mixture when obtaining the powder cosmetic is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.5 to 100% by mass, more preferably 30 to 100% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic. It is.

  In the powder cosmetic of the present invention produced as described above, other components usually used in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, for example, anionic surfactants and cationic surfactants, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. , Amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, humectants, water-soluble polymers, thickeners, film agents, UV absorbers, sequestering agents, lower alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, sugars, amino acids, organic amines, A polymer emulsion, pH adjuster, skin nutrient, vitamin, antioxidant, antioxidant aid, fragrance, water, etc. are appropriately blended as necessary, and manufactured by a conventional method according to the intended dosage form. I can do it.

  Further, the use of the powder cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include foundations, eye shadows, teak colors, body powders, perfume powders, baby powders, pressed powders, deodorant powders, and funniers. It is suitably applied to powdered or solid powder cosmetics.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. The present invention is not limited to these examples.
First, the evaluation method used in this example will be described.

Caking (taken into a puff)
The surface of the powder cosmetic of each test example shown in each table was scraped 10 times with a puff, and the process of transferring everything to the tissue was defined as one cycle, and the presence or absence of caking was evaluated when this was repeated 10 cycles.
A: Does not cake (takes off to puff is very good).
○: Caking occurred in a part (good removal to a puff).
Δ: Caking occurred (poor removal to puff).
X: Caking occurred in one cycle (removal to puff was very poor).

<Practical property evaluation>
Usability (fitness, smoothness)
The powder cosmetics of each test example shown in each table were actually used by 20 panelists and evaluated for usability (fitness, smoothness).
A: More than 16 people answered that usability (fitness, smoothness) was good.
○: 10 to 15 people answered that usability (fitness, smoothness) was good.
Δ: 5-9 responded that the usability (fitness, smoothness) was good.
X: Less than 4 people answered that usability (fitness, smoothness) was good.

Impact resistance Using the powder cosmetics of each test example shown in each table as a sample, the sample was dropped from a height of 30 cm onto a 20 mm thick iron plate in a horizontal state, and the number of drops until it was damaged was evaluated for impact resistance. It was.
◎: 11 times or more ○: 7 to 10 times Δ: 5 to 6 times ×: 4 times or less

For each powder component and oil component, in each table, for each powder component and various oil components shown in Formula A, the powder component placed in an absorption meter (for example, S410D: Asahi Research Institute, Ltd.) The oil component was added dropwise at 70 ° C. and 2 ml / min. Simultaneously, the torque value was measured while kneading at a rotational speed of 200 rpm, and the measured value when all the oil component was added was kneaded. The torque value was used.

  The inventors of the present invention manufactured powder cosmetics (foundations) of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 with the formulation shown in Table 1 below, and obtained various powder cosmetics according to the above evaluation criteria. The practical characteristics and the kneading torque value of the powder component-oil component were evaluated. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 1 below.

Comparative Examples 1, 3, and 4
In Table 1 below, various powder components and oily components shown in Formula A are mixed in ethyl alcohol with a disper mixer, the slurry viscosity is adjusted to about 2000 mPa · s, and then a medium stirring mill filled with 2 mmφ zirconia beads ( Crushing / pulverizing / dispersing using a sand grinder mill to obtain a slurry. The resulting slurry was dried in the form of fine droplets using a drying apparatus (spin flash dryer, manufactured by APV Nordic Anhyro) to obtain a dry powder. The obtained dry powder was filled into a resin middle dish container and dry press molded by a known method to obtain a solid powder cosmetic.

Example 1 and Comparative Examples 2 and 5
In Table 1 below, the powder component and the oil component shown in Formula A are mixed in ethyl alcohol with a disper mixer, the slurry viscosity is adjusted to about 2000 mPa · s, and then a medium stirring mill (sand) filled with 2 mmφ zirconia beads. Crushing / grinding / dispersing using a grinder mill to obtain a slurry. The resulting slurry was dried in the form of fine droplets using a drying apparatus (spin flash dryer, manufactured by APV Nordic Anhyro) to obtain a dry powder. The powder component shown in Formulation B was further added to the obtained dry powder and mixed using a sample mill (manufactured by Kyoritsu Rikko Co., Ltd.) to obtain a dry powder mixture. The obtained dry powder mixture was filled into a resin intermediate dish container, and dry press molding was performed by a known method to obtain a solid powder cosmetic.

* Spherical silicone powder 1: (dimethicone / vinyl methicone / methicone) cross polymer (KSP-100: manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
Silicone oil: dimethylpolysiloxane (KF96A-6T: manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
Nonionic surfactant: sorbitan sesquiisostearate (Esthemol 182V: manufactured by Nisshin Oilio Co., Ltd.)

  As shown in Table 1 above, the powder cosmetic of Comparative Example 1 produced by a conventional wet / dry process in a powder-oil composition region (kneading torque value 0.01 kg · m) with a low oil content and a low kneading torque value In the case of, the removal to the puff is good, but sufficient in terms of usability (fitness, smoothness) and impact resistance is not obtained. Furthermore, in the powder-oil composition region, the powder cosmetic of Comparative Example 2 in which the spherical silicone powder was added after the dry powder obtained after the wet mixing was slightly improved in terms of usability. However, impact resistance has deteriorated significantly.

  In addition, the powder cosmetic of Comparative Example 3 manufactured by the conventional method in a specific powder-oil composition region (kneading torque value 0.02 to 0.04 kg · m) having a high kneading torque value as compared with the conventional one was excellent. While the usability and impact resistance are obtained, caking occurs, so the puffing is poor. On the other hand, in the powder cosmetic of Example 1 obtained by post-adding spherical silicone powder into the dry powder in this powder-oil composition region, no caking occurred and good puffing was possible. As a result, it was clarified that excellent usability and impact resistance were maintained.

  On the other hand, in the powder cosmetic of Comparative Example 4 produced by the conventional method in a powder-oil composition region (kneading torque value 0.09 kg · m) having a very high kneading torque value with an increased oil content, caking occurs. In addition, it was not sufficient in terms of usability such as fit and smoothness. Furthermore, in the powder cosmetic of Comparative Example 5 in which the spherical silicone powder was post-added to the powder-oil composition region, the caking could not be eliminated even by the post-addition of the spherical powder.

  Subsequently, the present inventors examined the influence of the order of addition of the spherical powder and the suitability of the type of powder to be added later. In addition, about the manufacturing method of powder cosmetics, and evaluation criteria, it is the same as that of the said test. The composition of the powder cosmetic used in the test and the evaluation results are shown in Table 2 below.

* Spherical silicone powder 1: (dimethicone / vinyl methicone / methicone) cross polymer (KSP-100: manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
Spherical silicone powder 2: (Dimethicone / Vinyl dimethicone) Crosspolymer (Trefill E-506: manufactured by Toray Dow Corning Co., Ltd.)
Silicone oil: dimethylpolysiloxane (KF96A-6T: manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
Nonionic surfactant: sorbitan sesquiisostearate (Esthemol 182V: manufactured by Nisshin Oilio Co., Ltd.)

  As shown in Table 2 above, the powder cosmetic of Comparative Example 6 manufactured by the conventional wet / dry manufacturing method, that is, the method of simultaneously adding all powder components during wet mixing, using the same amount of spherical silicone powder as in Example 1. In, no significant improvement in caking was obtained. From this, the caking improvement effect in the powder cosmetic of Example 1 is not simply due to the increase in the amount of the powder component, but is caused by the localization of spherical powder that is not coated with oil in the cosmetic. It is thought that.

  Further, in the powder cosmetic of Example 2 to which other spherical silicone powders were added later, like Example 1, the caking was remarkably improved and the usability and impact resistance were excellent. Furthermore, in Example 3 where the kneading torque value is 0.02 kg · m and Example 4 where the kneading torque value is 0.05 kg · m, all of the removal to the puff, the usability and the impact resistance are all. A powder cosmetic material excellent in evaluation was obtained. In Comparative Example 7 in which the plate-like silicone-treated talc was added afterwards, the effect of improving caking was not observed, so it can be said that the use of spherical powder as the post-added powder is particularly effective for improving caking. .

  Furthermore, the present inventors have studied a suitable amount of spherical powder added to the powder cosmetic. In addition, about the manufacturing method of powder cosmetics, and evaluation criteria, it is the same as that of the said test. The composition of the powder cosmetic used in the test and the evaluation results are shown in Table 3 below.

  As shown in Table 3 above, the usability improving effect by the post-addition of the spherical silicone powder was confirmed from about 0.5% (Example 5), and the particularly excellent usability improving effect by the post-addition of about 1% or more. Was confirmed to be obtained (Examples 1, 6 to 8). On the other hand, in powder cosmetics to which spherical silicone powder was added after about 23% of the total amount, the impact resistance particularly tended to deteriorate (Example 9).

  In addition, the inventors of the powder cosmetics obtained in Comparative Example 1 and Example 7 described above on the surface of the cosmetics before and after puff removal using a scanning electron microscope (S-3000N: manufactured by Hitachi). I took a photo. A SEM photograph is shown in FIG.

  As shown in FIG. 2, in the powder cosmetic of Comparative Example 1 to which no spherical powder was added, caking was performed before and after puff removal, that is, the powder was agglomerated due to pressure load during puff removal. confirmed. On the other hand, in the powder cosmetic of Example 7 to which spherical silicone powder was added after about 4%, caking did not occur even after removing the puff, and therefore the powder was easily loosened during use, and the puff was removed. Was found to be good.

Hereinafter, although the formulation example of the powder cosmetics of this invention is shown, this invention is not limited to these.
Formulation Example 1 Foundation Mass%
(Powder component)
Talc residue Mica 20
Sericite 30
Barium sulfate 10
Boron nitride 5
Zinc oxide 5
Silicone-treated titanium oxide 15
Silicone-treated iron oxide red 1
Silicone-treated iron oxide yellow 3
Silicone-treated iron oxide black 0.3
(Oil component)
Dimeryl polysiloxane 4
Squalane 3
Vaseline 1
Sorbitan sesquiisostearate 1
(Other)
Preservative appropriate amount Antioxidant appropriate amount
Perfume
Total 100
(Appendix)
Reticulated silicone resin-coated organopolysiloxane powder 4
(KSP-100; manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
Total 104

(Production method) The powder component, oil component and other components shown in the above Formulation Example 1 are mixed with a disper mixer in ethyl alcohol, the slurry viscosity is adjusted to about 2000 mPa · s, and then a medium filled with 2 mmφ zirconia beads. Crushing / pulverizing / dispersing using a stirring mill (sand grinder mill) gave a slurry. The resulting slurry was dried in the form of fine droplets using a drying apparatus (spin flash dryer, manufactured by APV Nordic Anhyro) to obtain a dry powder. A silicone resin-coated organopolysiloxane powder (KSP-100: manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) is further added to the obtained dry powder and mixed using a sample mill (manufactured by Kyoritsu Riko Co., Ltd.). Got. The obtained dry powder mixture was filled into a resin middle dish container and dry press molded by a known method to obtain a solid foundation (powder cosmetic).

Formulation Example 2 Foundation Mass%
(Powder component)
Silicone-treated talc residue Silicone-treated synthetic mica 20
Silicone-treated sericite 30
Barium sulfate 10
Boron nitride 5
Zinc oxide 5
Silicone-treated titanium oxide 15
Silicone-treated iron oxide red 1
Silicone-treated iron oxide yellow 3
Silicone-treated iron oxide black 0.3
(Oil component)
Dimeryl polysiloxane 4
Squalane 3
Vaseline 1
Sorbitan sesquiisostearate 1
(Other)
Preservative appropriate amount Antioxidant appropriate amount
Perfume
Total 100
Reticulated silicone resin-coated organopolysiloxane powder 4
(KSP-100; manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
Total 104

(Manufacturing method) The powder component, the oil component, and other components shown in the above-mentioned Formulation Example 2 were mixed with a disper mixer in ethyl alcohol, the slurry viscosity was adjusted to about 2000 mPa · s, and then a medium filled with 2 mmφ zirconia beads. Crushing / pulverizing / dispersing using a stirring mill (sand grinder mill) gave a slurry. The resulting slurry was dried in the form of fine droplets using a drying apparatus (spin flash dryer, manufactured by APV Nordic Anhyro) to obtain a dry powder. A silicone resin-coated organopolysiloxane powder (KSP-100: manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) is further added to the obtained dry powder and mixed using a sample mill (manufactured by Kyoritsu Riko Co., Ltd.). Got. The obtained dry powder mixture was filled into a resin middle dish container and dry press molded by a known method to obtain a solid foundation (powder cosmetic).

Formulation Example 3 Foundation Mass%
(Powder component)
Silicone-treated talc residue Silicone-treated synthetic mica 20
Silicone-treated sericite 30
Barium sulfate 10
Boron nitride 5
Zinc oxide 5
Silicone-treated titanium oxide 15
Silicone-treated iron oxide red 1
Silicone-treated iron oxide yellow 3
Silicone-treated iron oxide black 0.3
(Oil component)
Liquid paraffin 1
Methylphenyl polysiloxane 2
Octyl methoxycinnamate 3
Dimethicone 2
Polyether-modified silicone 0.5
(Other)
Antiseptic appropriate amount Antioxidant appropriate amount Fragrance appropriate amount
Total 100
(Appendix)
Reticulated silicone resin-coated organopolysiloxane powder 4
(KSP-100; manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
Total 104

(Manufacturing method) The powder component, oil component and other components shown in the above-mentioned Formulation Example 3 are mixed with a disper mixer in ethyl alcohol, the slurry viscosity is adjusted to about 2000 mPa · s, and then a medium filled with 2 mmφ zirconia beads. Crushing / pulverizing / dispersing using a stirring mill (sand grinder mill) gave a slurry. The resulting slurry was dried in the form of fine droplets using a drying apparatus (spin flash dryer, manufactured by APV Nordic Anhyro) to obtain a dry powder. A silicone resin-coated organopolysiloxane powder (KSP-100: manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) is further added to the obtained dry powder and mixed using a sample mill (manufactured by Kyoritsu Riko Co., Ltd.). Got. The obtained dry powder mixture was filled into a resin middle dish container and dry press molded by a known method to obtain a solid foundation (powder cosmetic).

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram (upper part of FIG. 1) of a kneading torque-oil content plot in a general powder cosmetic, and an explanatory diagram of a mixed state of powder and oil (lower part of FIG. 1). It is a SEM photograph figure of the powder cosmetics obtained in Comparative Example 1 and Example 7.

Claims (6)

75-95% by mass of the powder component,
A powder cosmetic comprising 5 to 25% by mass of an oily component as a binder,
As a part of the powder component, containing 0.5 to 20.0% by mass of spherical powder in the total amount of the cosmetic,
A part or all of the spherical powder is present in the cosmetic in a state where the entire powder surface is not covered with the oil component,
A powder cosmetic characterized by having a kneading torque value measured by Test Method 1 below using the powder component excluding the spherical powder and the oil component is 0.015 to 0.05 kg · m.
(Test method 1)
Using various powder components (excluding spherical powder) and various oil components of the same type and mass as those contained in 100 g of the powder cosmetic, the various powder components contained in the torque measuring device The oil component was added dropwise at 70 ° C. and 2 ml / min. At the same time, the torque value was continuously measured while kneading at a rotational speed of 200 rpm, and the measured values when all the various oil components were added were measured. The kneading torque value is used.   The powder cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the spherical powder is a spherical silicone powder. A slurry preparation step in which a first powder component and an oil component as a binder are dispersed and mixed in a volatile solvent to form a slurry;
A drying step of drying the slurry obtained by the slurry preparation step to remove a volatile solvent and obtaining a dry powder;
A spherical powder addition step of adding and mixing a second powder component containing a spherical powder in the dry powder obtained by the drying step, and using the dry powder mixture obtained by the spherical powder addition step A method for producing a powder cosmetic, characterized by producing a cosmetic.   In the manufacturing method of the powder cosmetics of Claim 3, the powder component used for the said slurry preparation process is 55-94.5 mass% in cosmetics whole quantity, and the oil-based component as a binder is 5-25 mass in cosmetics whole quantity. %, And the spherical powder used in the spherical powder addition step is 0.5 to 20.0 mass% in the total amount of the cosmetic.   5. The method for producing a powder cosmetic according to claim 3, wherein the spherical powder is a spherical silicone powder.   The method for producing a powder cosmetic according to any one of claims 3 to 5, wherein the drying device used in the drying step makes the slurry into fine droplets by mechanical shearing force, and applies a dry gas to the fine droplets. A method for producing a powder cosmetic, wherein the slurry is a drying device that blows the slurry.

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