JP2008100975A - Oily solid cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic that solves the problems of conventional oil-based solid cosmetics using carnauba wax without sacrificing the feeling of use, coating luster, and color development, which are satisfactory in formability, shape retention strength and odor. I will provide a.
An oily solid cosmetic comprising a carnauba wax having a saponification value of 45 to 65, an acid value of 0 to 0.8, and a melting point of 78 ° C to 82 ° C. . Only natural solid fats and oils containing carnauba wax having a saponification value of 45 or more and 65 or less, an acid value of 0 or more and 0.8 or less, and a melting point of 78 ° C. or more and 82 ° C. or less and obtained from animals and plants are solidified. A rod-like oily solid cosmetic contained as an agent. Only natural solid fats and oils containing carnauba wax having a saponification value of 45 or more and 65 or less, an acid value of 0 or more and 0.8 or less, and a melting point of 78 ° C. or more and 82 ° C. or less and obtained from animals and plants are solidified. A rod-like oily solid cosmetic contained as an agent.
[Selection figure] None

Description

  The present invention relates to an oily solid cosmetic, and more specifically, by containing a purified carnauba wax, it has good adhesion, excellent pigment colorability and coating luster, and moldability, retention. An object of the present invention is to provide an oily solid cosmetic having excellent shape strength, excellent stability of a molded product, excellent detachability at the time of use, good color and odor.

  Conventionally, oily solid cosmetics include petroleum waxes such as polyethylene wax and Fischer-Tropsch wax, which are excellent in solidifying properties as solid wax components, and synthetic linear hydrocarbon waxes such as paraffin wax, ozokerite wax, ceresin wax, and microcrystalline wax. Carnauba wax, candelilla wax, and the like are used as hydrocarbon waxes obtained from fractions or as plant waxes that are excellent in adhesion, pigment coloring, gloss, and smooth feel. Rice wax and molefish are also used. Furthermore, animal waxes such as beeswax are also widely used. In addition, in order to meet the market demand for cosmetics that do not use solid hydrocarbon waxes due to safety concerns, non-solid hydrocarbons such as carnauba wax, which is a vegetable wax, and beeswax, which is an animal wax, are used. Various oily solid cosmetics have been made.

  However, oil-based solid cosmetics using conventional carnauba wax are excellent in adhesion and pigment color development, but do not have sufficient solidifying power in many oils commonly used in cosmetics, and can be used for oil selection in formulation design. There is a big limitation, and there is a problem that the finished product has a large change in shape holding force due to a change in temperature and lacks stability such that liquid oil sweats from the surface of the molded product. In addition, when used in an excessive amount in order to obtain sufficient solidification, there is a problem that the feel becomes heavy and the feeling of use is poor, the removal is poor and the usability is poor. Furthermore, the color and odor were strongly problematic.

  As a result of diligent research, the present inventors have found that a carnauba wax having a saponification value of 45 to 65 and purified and fractionated, an acid value of 0 to 0.8, and a melting point of 78 ° C. to 82 ° C. It has been found that the above problems can be solved by blending, and the present invention has been completed.

  That is, the present invention contains a carnauba wax having a saponification value of 45 or more and 65 or less, an acid value of 0 or more and 0.8 or less, and a melting point of 78 ° C. or more and 82 ° C. or less. Cosmetics.

That is, the present invention contains carnauba wax having a saponification value of 45 or more and 65 or less, an acid value of 0 or more and 0.8 or less, and a melting point of 78 ° C. or more and 82 ° C. or less, and can be obtained from animals and plants. An oily solid cosmetic comprising only natural solid fat as a solidifying agent.

  That is, the present invention contains carnauba wax having a saponification value of 45 or more and 65 or less, an acid value of 0 or more and 0.8 or less, and a melting point of 78 ° C. or more and 82 ° C. or less, and can be obtained from animals and plants. A rod-like oily solid cosmetic containing only natural solid fat as a solidifying agent.

The oil and fat solid cosmetic of the present invention has good adhesion, excellent pigment coloration and gloss, and excellent moldability and shape retention strength, as well as stability of molded products and ease of use. It is an oily solid cosmetic and a rod-like oily cosmetic with excellent color, good use feeling and little odor.

  The carnauba wax used in the present invention is produced by purifying crude carnauba wax. In this purification, for example, crude carnauba wax is dissolved by heating, activated carbon is added and stirred under reduced pressure, and then the activated carbon is removed by filtration. Next, activated clay is added to the heated filtrate, and after stirring under reduced pressure, the activated clay is removed by filtration. After the odor is removed from the filtrate by, for example, reduced-pressure steam distillation, it is dissolved by heating in an organic solvent such as cyclohexane, activated alumina is added, heated and stirred under normal pressure, and then the activated alumina is removed by filtration. Cyclohexane is distilled under reduced pressure using an evaporator or the like to distill off the filtrate to a solid. Then, the solid matter is dissolved in benzene, and the solution is passed through a column packed with silica gel, eluted and developed with benzene, and divided into fractions. This fraction can be collected, for example, from the first fraction to the 32nd fraction, and benzene can be distilled off to obtain purified carnauba wax.

  The carnauba wax used in the present invention has a saponification value of 45 or more and 65 or less, an acid value of 0 or more and 0.8 or less, and a melting point of 78 ° C. or more and 82 ° C. or less, which is remarkably compared with the conventional carnauba wax. The saponification value and acid value are reduced.

  The blending amount of the carnauba wax used in the present invention in the oily solid cosmetic is not particularly limited, but is preferably 1 to 50%. More preferably, it is 5 to 40%.

  In addition to the above-mentioned essential components, the cosmetics of the present invention include known components used in cosmetics, for example, liquid oils, semi-solid oils, solid oils, ceresin, ozokerite and other mineral waxes, paraffin, micro Petroleum waxes such as crystallin wax, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene wax and polyethylene / polypropylene copolymer wax, plant waxes such as beeswax and owl, organic powder, pearl agent, white pigment, extender pigment, inorganic or organic coloring Agents, these powder-treated products (silicon treatment, polytetrafluoroethylene treatment, etc.), acrylic and silicon resins, dyes, surfactants, polymer compounds, gelling agents, UV absorbers, antioxidants, antiseptics Agents, polyhydric alcohols, water, fragrances, cosmetic ingredients, etc. are appropriately selected and used within a range not impairing the effects of the present invention. It can be.

  Examples of the oily solid cosmetics of the present invention include makeup cosmetics such as lipsticks, lip balms, lip glosses, foundations, blushers, eye shadows, eyebrows, and eye liners, and hair cosmetics such as hair conditioners and hair dyes. It is done.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

Reference example 1
1 kg of carnauba wax is dissolved by heating at 110 ° C., 80 g of powdered activated carbon is added, the mixture is stirred at 110 ° C. under a reduced pressure of 10 Torr for 4 hours, and then the activated carbon is removed by filtration. The filtrate is heated to 120 ° C. under normal pressure, 80 g of powder activated clay is added, and after stirring for 4 hours at 120 ° C. under reduced pressure of 10 Torr, the powder activated clay is removed by filtration. The filtrate is heated to 140 ° C. under normal pressure, and 20 ml of 35% hydrogen peroxide is added and stirred for 1 hour while stirring. Next, after performing steam distillation for 4 hours at a temperature of 110 ° C. and a reduced pressure of 10 ⁻¹ Torr, the mixture is cooled to 100 ° C. and then stirred for 3 hours while blowing nitrogen. The container was filled and solidified to obtain 700 g of carnauba wax. Next, 500 ml of cyclohexane is added to 50 g of the obtained carnauba wax, heated to 75 ° C. and dissolved with stirring. After adding 50 g of activated alumina to this and stirring at 75 ° C. for 6 hours, the activated alumina is removed by filtration. Cyclohexane is distilled off from the filtrate with an evaporator to form a solid. Then, 5 g of the solid matter was dissolved in 100 ml of benzene, and this was passed through a column having an inner diameter of 40 mm and a length of 700 mm packed with 400 g of silica gel, the column was kept at 65 ° C., and 10 ml of benzene. The elution was carried out at a flow rate of / min and divided into 50 ml fractions. The 1st to 32nd fractions were collected and benzene was distilled off by an evaporator to obtain 3.5 g of carnauba wax reference example 1. When the obtained carnauba wax was analyzed, the odor was low, the hue was white, the acid value was 0, the saponification value was 45.0, and the melting point was 80.0 ° C.

Reference example 2
In the above production method, the first to 40th fractions were collected and benzene was distilled off by an evaporator to obtain 4.1 g of carnauba wax reference example 2. When the obtained carnauba wax was analyzed, the odor was low, the hue was white, the acid value was 0.8, the saponification value was 65.0, and the melting point was 80.5 ° C.

Evaluation Example 1 Acid value, saponification value, hydroxyl value, melting point, appearance color, smell Oxidation, saponification value, hydroxyl value, melting point, appearance color, smell of carnauba wax obtained in Reference Examples 1 and 2 Compared to carnauba wax. The results are shown in Table 1.

Evaluation Example 2 Formability and bending strength of rod-shaped molded product A rod-shaped product obtained by heat-mixing carnauba wax obtained in the reference example and conventional carnauba wax in five general-purpose liquid oils at a concentration of 15% and pouring into a mold. The penetration resistance and bending strength (stress (g)) of the molded product were measured and compared, and the results are shown in Tables 3 and 4.
(Manufacturing method)
The carnauba wax of Reference Example 1 and the conventional carnauba wax were weighed and mixed at a solid content concentration of 15% (weight ratio) in each of the five general-purpose liquid oils shown in Table 2, dissolved, heated to 100 ° C., and left to stand. Cool to 0 ° C. and cast into an aluminum pan with a diameter of 2 cm and a depth of 5 mm and a cylindrical mold with a diameter of 12 mm and a length of 10 cm. Further, after cooling in a constant temperature room at 5 ° C. for 1 hour, the cast aluminum product remains as it is, and the cylindrical molded product is taken out of the mold and kept in a constant temperature room at 35 ° C. for 2 hours. The molded product is cut off 3 cm from the top to make a sample for evaluation measurement.
(Evaluation method)
For the aluminum dish cast product, the vertical penetration stress (needle diameter 3 mm) is measured with a rheometer J type (manufactured by Fudo Kogyo Co., Ltd.). The cylindrical molded product was handed over to a bridge with a gap of 4 cm, the center part was folded with a rheometer J type (manufactured by Fudo Kogyo Co., Ltd.), and the stress was measured.

  As is clear from the above results, the carnauba wax of the present invention has a solidifying power stably in a wide range of oils and can form an oily solid.

Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 Stick-shaped lipsticks Stick-shaped lipsticks having the formulations shown in Table 4 below were prepared, and bending strength, releasability, feeling of use (ease of application, adhesion) and glossiness were as follows. The test and sensory evaluation were performed by the method. The results are also shown in Table 5.

(Manufacturing method)
Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2
A. Ingredient 1. ~ 9. Is dissolved by heating and mixed uniformly.
B. A. Component 10 -16. And uniformly dispersed with a three-roll mill, and after reheating, defoaming, filling, and cooling molding to obtain a product.

(Test method and evaluation method)
Folding strength: measured with a rheometer J type (manufactured by Fudo Kogyo Co., Ltd.) and evaluated according to the following criteria.
<Standard>
230 ~ 299g ◎
200-230 ○
200g or less
Releasability: The degree of mold release from the casting mold was determined with the naked eye.
◎: Very good ○: Good △: Bad △△: Very bad feeling of use (ease of application): Usability (based on a sticky lipstick obtained from a female panel consisting of 25 people) The ease of application and adhesion were evaluated according to the following criteria by a good number of people.
<Standard>
Number of good people 20 or more: ◎
15-19 people: ○
10-14 people: △
9 or less: △△
Glossiness: The glossiness of the obtained lipstick was evaluated according to the following criteria by a use test with a female panel of 25 people as a control and the number of people considered to be glossy.
<Standard>
Number of good people 20 or more: ◎
15-19 people: ○
10-14 people: △
9 or less: △△
Color developability: The obtained lipstick was evaluated according to the following criteria by a use test with a female panel consisting of 25 people as a control, and by the number of people considered good color developability.
<Standard>
Number of good people 20 or more: ◎
15-19 people: ○
10-14 people: △
9 or less: △△
Odor: The lipstick obtained was evaluated according to the following criteria by a use test with a female panel consisting of 25 persons as a control, and by the number of persons who made the odor weak.
<Standard>
More than 20 weak people: ◎
15-19 people: ○
10-14 people: △
9 or less: △△

  As is apparent from Table 5, the stick-shaped lipstick of the present invention was excellent in strength, moldability and releasability, and had good usability and glossiness and weak odor.

Example 2 and Comparative Examples 3 and 4, stick-shaped lipsticks containing only natural solid oils and fats obtained from plants as a solidifying agent. Stick-shaped lipsticks having the formulations shown in Table 6 below were prepared, and bending strength, mold release properties, and use Tests and sensory evaluations were carried out for the feeling (ease of application, adhesion) and glossiness by the following methods. The results are also shown in Table 6.

(Manufacturing method)
Example 2 and Comparative Examples 3 and 4
A. Ingredient 1. ~ 8. Is dissolved by heating and mixed uniformly.
B. A. component 9. -15. And uniformly dispersed with a three-roll mill, and after reheating, defoaming, filling, and cooling molding to obtain a product.

(Test method and evaluation method)
Folding strength: measured with a rheometer J type (manufactured by Fudo Kogyo Co., Ltd.) and evaluated according to the following criteria.
<Standard>
230 ~ 299g ◎
200-230 ○
200g or less
Separation: The degree of mold separation from the casting mold was determined with the naked eye.
◎: Very good ○: Good △: Bad △△: Very bad feeling of use (easy to apply): The sticky lipstick that does not contain the obtained solid hydrocarbon, and a female panel consisting of 25 people was used as a control According to the test, usability (ease of application, adhesion) was evaluated according to the following criteria by the number of people considered good.
<Standard>
Number of good people 20 or more: ◎
15-19 people: ○
10-14 people: △
9 or less: △△
Glossiness: The glossiness of the obtained lipstick was evaluated according to the following criteria by a use test with a female panel of 25 people as a control and the number of people considered to be glossy.
<Standard>
Number of good people 20 or more: ◎
15-19 people: ○
10-14 people: △
9 or less: △△
Color developability: The obtained lipstick was evaluated according to the following criteria by a use test with a female panel consisting of 25 people as a control, and by the number of people considered good color developability.
<Standard>
Number of good people 20 or more: ◎
15-19 people: ○
10-14 people: △
9 or less: △△
Odor: The lipstick obtained was evaluated according to the following criteria by a use test with a female panel consisting of 25 persons as a control, and by the number of persons who made the odor weak.
<Standard>
More than 20 weak people: ◎
15-19 people: ○
10-14 people: △
9 or less: △△

  As is apparent from Table 6, the stick-shaped lipstick containing only the solid fat obtained from the plant of the present invention as a solidifying agent is excellent in strength, moldability and releasability, and has good usability and gloss. The smell was also weak.

（製法）
Ａ． 成分１〜４を加熱溶解する。
Ｂ． Ａに成分５〜８を加えて撹拌混合する。
Ｃ． 脱気して繰り出し容器に直接流し込み、冷却して成形しスティック状アイシャドウを得る。Example 3 Stick-shaped eye shadow

(Manufacturing method)
A. Components 1 to 4 are dissolved by heating.
B. Add ingredients 5 to 8 to A and stir and mix.
C. Deaerate and flow directly into the feeding container, cool and mold to obtain a stick-shaped eye shadow.

  The stick-shaped eye shadow obtained as described above was excellent in moldability and releasability from the feeding container, excellent in feeling of use, adhesion and gloss, and weak in odor.

（製法）
Ａ． 成分１〜８を加熱溶解する。
Ｂ． 脱気して繰り出し容器に直接流し込み、冷却して成形しスティック状ヘアワックスを得る。Example 4 Stick-shaped hair wax

(Manufacturing method)
A. Components 1 to 8 are dissolved by heating.
B. Deaerated, poured directly into a feeding container, cooled and molded to obtain a stick-shaped hair wax.

  The stick-like hair wax obtained as described above was excellent in moldability and releasability from the feeding container, excellent in feeling of use and gloss, and weak in odor.

（製法）
Ａ． 成分１〜６を加熱溶解する。
Ｂ． 成分７〜１４を混合して、これにＡを添加して均一に分散する。これを容器に充填して、固形ファンデーションを得る。Example 5 Solid foundation

(Manufacturing method)
A. Components 1 to 6 are dissolved by heating.
B. Ingredients 7 to 14 are mixed, and A is added thereto and dispersed uniformly. This is filled into a container to obtain a solid foundation.

  The solid foundation obtained as described above was excellent in shape retention and use feeling and weak in odor.

Claims (3)

An oily solid cosmetic comprising a carnauba wax having a saponification value of 45 to 65, an acid value of 0 to 0.8, and a melting point of 78 ° C to 82 ° C. Only natural solid fats and oils containing carnauba wax having a saponification value of 45 or more and 65 or less, an acid value of 0 or more and 0.8 or less, and a melting point of 78 ° C. or more and 82 ° C. or less and obtained from animals and plants are solidified. An oily solid cosmetic characterized by containing as an agent. Only natural solid fats and oils containing carnauba wax having a saponification value of 45 or more and 65 or less, an acid value of 0 or more and 0.8 or less, and a melting point of 78 ° C. or more and 82 ° C. or less and obtained from animals and plants are solidified. A rod-like oily solid cosmetic contained as an agent.