JP2005068059A - Hair treatment preparation for permanent set and method for hair treatment using the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a hair treatment preparation which ameliorates various drawbacks involved in conventional cold-perming methods utilizing cysteine linkage cleavage and restoration and metal chelate linkage formation, more efficient, and scarcely damages the hair. <P>SOLUTION: The hair treatment preparation, being of two-part type, comprises a 1st liquid consisting of an aqueous solution containing a sericin hydrolyzate with a mass-average molecular weight of 30,000-70,000 and a compound having two amino groups and a 2nd liquid consisting of an aqueous buffer solution containing transglutaminase. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2005,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to a novel hair treatment agent for permanent sets for forming a permanent hair wave or hair straight and a hair treatment method using the same.

  In general, hair waves and hair straighteners are treated with alkaline aqueous solution and heated, so-called electric perm method, and disulfide bonds in hair keratin protein are cleaved with thioglycolate and set to the desired shape. Thereafter, a so-called cold perm method is known in which reconstitution with an oxidizing agent such as bromate is known.

  However, since the electric perm method forcibly deforms the hair by heating, it is unavoidable that the hair is damaged, and there is a disadvantage that the set duration is short, and the cold perm method constitutes the hair. Once the disulfide bridge in the keratin protein is chemically cleaved and set to the desired shape, the regeneration rate when forming the cross-link again is as low as a few percent or less. Since hair is treated with an alkaline aqueous solution, there is a drawback that the protein forming the hair is hydrolyzed and the strength is reduced or thinned due to the elution of protective components in the hair.

  In addition, this cold perm method uses dangerous chemicals such as thioglycolate, which is a strong reducing agent, bromate, and hydrogen peroxide, which is a strong oxidizing agent, which may adversely affect the human body. .

  Furthermore, since the above thioglycolate has a peculiar odor, it causes discomfort for both the beautician and the customer, and also requires consideration for prevention of environmental pollution caused by drainage after the permanent treatment. There is.

  In order to improve such drawbacks, a first treatment liquid containing a nonionic or anionic surfactant and a soluble alkali metal compound, a nonionic or anionic surfactant and a metal having a chelating ability A hair treatment agent comprising a second treatment solution containing a soluble salt (see Patent Document 1) has been proposed.

  This product does not cause hair damage because it is set by forming a metal chelate bond in the keratin protein molecule, but the preparation conditions are complicated because it is necessary to properly select the liquid properties of each solution. There is a drawback.

  On the other hand, in order to heal or prevent hair damage and protect hair from chemical and mechanical irritation, 0.1 to 10% by weight of fibroin peptide having an average molecular weight of 300 to 3500 is added to the base. (See Patent Document 2), blending transglutaminase and water-soluble polyhydric alcohol (see Patent Document 3), blending 0.1 to 20% by weight of keratin peptide ester (see Patent Document 4), molecular weight 100 A peptide having a main peak in a molecular weight range of 5,000 to 10,000, a proportion of peptides having a molecular weight of 5,000 or more, and a molecular weight of 10,000 or less. A wheat protein hydrolyzate having a ratio of 70% by weight or more (see Patent Document 5), lysine or glutamine residue in the primary amine molecule In addition, it has been proposed to blend one or more amino group-containing compounds selected from peptides and proteins having a molecular weight of 203 or more, including both of them, and transglutaminase (see Patent Document 6). In addition, it does not have a function such as a permanent wave or a permanent straight, and merely heals hair damage caused by an electric permanent or a cold permanent.

Japanese Patent Publication No.53-1344 (Claims and others) Japanese Examined Patent Publication No. 62-29404 (claims and others) JP-A-2-204407 (Claims and others) JP-A-4-308515 (Claims and others) JP 5-921 A (Claims and others) JP-A-9-110647 (Claims and others)

  An object of the present invention is to provide a hair treatment agent that improves various disadvantages in the conventional cold perm method using the cleavage and restoration of cysteine bonds and the formation of metal chelate bonds, and that is more efficient and causes less hair damage. It was made as.

  When the present inventors contact a mixture of a compound having two amino groups and a hydrolysis product of sericin with hair and act on transglutaminase, the lysine residue in the hydrolysis product of sericin is changed. It has been found that it can react with glutamine residues in hair proteins to form a cross-link, and that this reaction can be used to set hair in the same manner as in the conventional cold perm method. It came to.

  That is, the present invention uses an aqueous buffer solution containing a sericin hydrolysis product having a mass average molecular weight of 30,000 to 70,000 and a compound having two amino groups as a first solution, and an aqueous buffer solution containing transglutaminase. A hair treatment agent for a two-component permanent set as a second solution, and an aqueous solution containing a sericin hydrolysis product having a mass average molecular weight of 30,000 to 70,000 and a compound having two amino groups in the hair Provided is a hair treatment method characterized in that after setting the desired shape in contact with the first liquid, the permanent liquid is applied by contacting with the second liquid consisting of an aqueous buffer solution containing transglutaminase. is there.

  Hydrolysis of sericin adhering the two silk fibroin fibers in the silk thread produces a polypeptide containing many lysine residues that react with glutamine residues in the hair protein molecule. Then, when hair protein molecules are treated with this polypeptide, an organic compound having two amino groups, and transglutaminase, the effect of immobilizing hair by crosslinking between the hair protein molecules by the organic compound having two amino groups In addition, a synergistic effect with the immobilization effect due to the polymer formation by the reaction of the high molecular weight sericin molecule with the hair protein molecule is produced, and a safe and excellent permanent set is obtained.

  At this time, the reaction between the high molecular weight sericin and the hair protein molecule proceeds smoothly under the weakly swollen state of the hair due to the alkalinity and reducibility of the alkaline ionized water, resulting in a setting effect by sericin.

  The sericin hydrolysis product having a mass average molecular weight of 30,000 to 70,000 used in the present invention is obtained by immersing mayu in alkaline ionized water obtained by electrolyzing a sodium chloride aqueous solution and decomposing at 40 ° C. or lower. be able to. Thus, by making processing time 40 degrees C or less, the hydrolysis by an alkali can be suppressed and a high molecular weight sericin hydrolysis product can be extracted.

  Generally available sericin is obtained by treating and separating sericin covering the surface of silk fibroin fiber at 100 ° C. for several hours with an alkaline aqueous solution in the silk scouring process. Since it proceeds excessively and the mass average molecular weight becomes 20,000 or less, it is unsuitable as a sericin hydrolysis product used in the present invention.

  In the present invention, sericin having a mass average molecular weight of 30,000 to 70,000 extracted with alkaline ionized water as described above is concentrated under reduced pressure at a hydrolysis product extract of 40 ° C. or lower or dialyzed at room temperature and concentrated. The concentrated solution is vacuum-dried or freeze-dried. When a temperature higher than 40 ° C. is used at the time of concentration or drying, the sericin hydrolysis product may be deteriorated. Therefore, it is preferable to use a temperature of 40 ° C. or lower.

  Next, the compound having two amino groups used in the present invention is preferably an amino acid ester having two amino groups or an aliphatic or alicyclic hydrocarbon having two amino groups. Examples of amino acid esters having two amino groups include alkyl esters of basic amino acids such as lysine, hydroxylysine, arginine and ornithine.

  These amino acid esters may be L-type, D-type, or DL-type. Examples of aliphatic or cyclic hydrocarbons having two amino groups include tetramethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, octamethylenediamine, 2-n-butylaminoethylamine, N- (3-aminopropyl) Examples include cyclohexylamine.

  The use ratio of the sericin hydrolysis product and the compound having two amino groups before the hair treatment of the present invention is in the range of 1: 5 to 2: 1, preferably 1: 2 to 1: 1 by mass ratio. Chosen by If the proportion of the compound having two amino groups is smaller than this, the sericin hydrolysis product and the hair protein molecule are not sufficiently cross-linked, and the compound having two amino groups. If the ratio of use is large, this compound becomes excessive, and there is a risk that hair protein will be lost.

  Transglutaminase used in the present invention is a kind of protein modifying enzyme, catalyzing the reaction between γ-carboxyl group of glutamic acid unit and ε-amino group of lysine unit in protein and polypeptide, and ε- ( Cross-linking is performed via a [gamma-glutamine) lysine bond. This transglutaminase is present in animal tissues and blood cells and is involved in the coagulation reaction of fibrin protein and the keratinization of epidermal cells and hair. Constitutes the outermost layer of firm skin. This transglutaminase is known to be activated by enzymes such as divalent calcium ions and cathepsin D.

  The transglutaminase used in the present invention can be prepared, for example, by extraction and purification from the liver, serum, platelets, hair follicles, epidermis, etc. of mammals such as guinea pigs, rats, pigs, cows, sheep, etc., according to a conventional method. it can.

  This transglutaminase is a dextrin, cyclodextrin, starch, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, pectin, mannan, gum arabic, gelatin, collagen, alginate, xanthan gum etc. These water-soluble polymer substances can be used in combination.

  The hair treatment agent for permanent set of the present invention is composed of a first liquid and a second liquid. The first liquid is a sericin hydrolysis product having a mass average molecular weight of 30,000 to 70,000 and two amino acids. The aqueous solution contains a group-containing compound at a predetermined ratio, and the second solution is an aqueous buffer solution containing transglutaminase.

  This first liquid is preferably adjusted to pH 12 or less and an oxidation-reduction potential minus 90 or less. When the pH is higher than 12, the hair keratin protein is hydrolyzed and damaged, and when the redox potential is higher than minus 90, the reaction between the hair keratin protein molecule and the compound having two amino groups is sufficient. It will not progress.

  As the solvent of the first liquid, water or a mixed solvent of water and a water-soluble organic solvent such as methyl alcohol, ethyl alcohol, ethylene glycol, glycerin, ethyl lactate, dimethylformamide is preferable, and the second aqueous buffer solution As such, a phosphate-based or Tris-HCl-based aqueous buffer is preferable.

  To apply a permanent set, that is, a hair wave or a hair straightener, using the hair treatment agent for permanent set of the present invention, first wash the hair with shampoo, then apply the first liquid uniformly, and use a hair set frame, etc. Then, after setting to a desired shape, the second liquid is uniformly applied, the entire hair is covered with a plastic film, and held at 35 to 45 ° C. for 10 to 60 minutes. Next, the desired permanent set can be obtained by thoroughly washing with water, removing the hair treatment agent, and then drying.

  When the permanent hair treatment agent of the present invention is used, efficient and permanent hair wave or straightening treatment can be performed without damaging the hair.

Next, the best mode for carrying out the present invention will be described in detail by way of examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.
In addition, the wave efficiency (%) and wave retention (%) in each example are measured by the following methods.

(1) Wave efficiency;
The healthy hair cut from the same person having a length of 15 to 20 cm is first washed with a surfactant, washed with water, and then naturally dried. One 20 bundles of these hairs are defined. Sericin having a molecular weight of 30,000 to 70,000 is dissolved in alkaline ionized water, and the hair bundle is immersed in this solution. Then, one end of the hair bundle immersed in this solution is fixed to the fixture, zigzag on alternating bars with a constant force, and the other end is fixed to the other end of a similar device.

  Next, the second liquid containing transglutaminase and a phosphate buffer is sprayed evenly onto the hair fixed to the set frame. Then, this sample is covered with a plastic film so that moisture is not volatilized, and kept in a thermostat kept at 40 ° C. for 25 minutes, and set. Next, the hair bundle is washed with running water while being fixed to the frame.

Subsequently, this hair bundle is gently removed from the frame, placed on a glass plate, the height of the five waves formed is measured, and the wave efficiency (%) is calculated according to the following formula.
Wave efficiency (%) = 100− [100 × (ba) / ca]
However,
a: Length from the first to the sixth set frame basic position (mm)
b: Height of 5 wave peaks formed (mm)
c: Length when b is stretched straight (mm)

(2) Wave retention rate;
Immerse the hair bundle in 20% sodium lauryl sulfate solution, leave it in a constant temperature water bath at 60 ° C for 1 hour, take it out with tweezers, lightly wash it with water, transfer it to a glass plate, and measure the height of the five peaks of the wave again. The wave retention rate (%) is calculated from the wave efficiency before and after the processing according to the following equation.
Wave retention (%) =
[Wave efficiency after processing (%) / wave efficiency before processing (%)] × 100

  Human healthy hair, 20cm long 20cm, collected into hair bundle, washed with shampoo, lysine metal ester 1.0g, 0.5g molecular weight 30,000-67,000 sericin mixture pH 12 or less, redox potential It is immersed in a first solution prepared by dissolving in 100 ml of alkaline ionized water of minus 90 or less at 40 ° C. or less. Next, the hair is tension-set on the set frame. On the other hand, transglutaminase is extracted from 20 g of 20% powder of transglutaminase and 90% of dextrin with 150 ml of water / ethanol mixed solvent (volume ratio 2: 1), and 8 g of phosphate buffer powder is added to activate. Two liquids are prepared, and this second liquid is sprayed uniformly on the hair bundle fixed to the set frame.

Next, the sample is covered with a polyethylene film so that the moisture does not volatilize, and kept at 40 ° C. for 25 minutes in a thermostatic bath. Next, the frame is taken out from the thermostatic bath, and the hair bundle is washed with running water while being fixed to the frame.
The hair bundle thus obtained was gently removed from the frame, placed on a glass plate, the height b of the five peaks formed was measured, and the wave efficiency was determined to be 52%. Moreover, the wave retention of this thing was 53.8%.

Comparative Example For comparison, the wave efficiency and wave retention of hair using a conventional alkaline permanent with thioglycolic acid and ammonia were determined as follows.
Twenty hairs identical to those in Example 1 are collected, washed with a hair bundle and shampooed, and then immersed in a first agent of an ammonia solution having a pH of 9 containing 6.5% thioglycolic acid. Then, this hair is tension-set on the set frame.

The sample is covered with a polyethylene film so that the water does not volatilize, and kept in a thermostatic bath maintained at 40 ° C. for 10 minutes. The sample is then sprayed directly with the second agent, ie 6.0% aqueous sodium bromate solution, neutralizing the reducing power of thioglycolic acid and kept for 10 minutes to regenerate the reduced disulfide bonds on the hair, Do. Next, the frame is taken out from the thermostatic bath, and the hair bundle is washed with running water while being fixed to the frame.
When the wave efficiency and the wave retention were determined for the hair bundle thus treated, they were 66.5% and 87.3%, respectively.

Using the same hair used in Example 1, making the same hair bundle and washing it with shampoo, 2.5 g of arginine methyl ester and 1.0 g of a sericin mixture having a molecular weight of 30,000 to 67,000 have a pH of 12 or less, oxidized. A first liquid is prepared by dissolving in 100 ml of alkaline ionized water having a reduction potential of minus 90 or less at 40 ° C. or less, and immersed in this. Next, this hair bundle is tension-set on the set frame. Next, the second liquid prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 is sprayed uniformly onto the hair bundle fixed to the set frame.
This sample was set for 25 minutes at 40 ° C. under the same conditions as in Example 1. The wave efficiency and wave retention of this product were 61.0% and 58.2%, respectively.

Using the same hair used in Example 1, making the same hair bundle and washing it with shampoo, 1.5 g of hexamethylene diamine and 1.0 g of sericin mixture having a molecular weight of 30,000 to 67,000 were pH 12 or less, redox potential minus It is immersed in a solution of 90 ml or less, 100 ml of alkaline ionized water at 40 ° C. or less.
Next, this hair bundle is tension-set on the set frame. Next, the same transglutaminase solution as in Example 1 is sprayed uniformly onto the hair bundle fixed to the above set frame.
With respect to the hair bundle thus treated, the wave efficiency and the wave retention were determined to be 62.5% and 62.7%, respectively.

  Similar to the conventional cold perm method, it can be used as a safe and efficient permanent hair set method in general beauty salons.

Claims (7)

  An aqueous solution containing a sericin hydrolysis product having a mass average molecular weight of 30,000 to 70,000 and a compound having two amino groups is used as the first solution, and an aqueous buffer solution containing transglutaminase is used as the second solution. Hair treatment agent for liquid permanent set.   The compound having two amino groups is at least one selected from an amino acid ester having two amino groups and an aliphatic or alicyclic hydrocarbon having two amino groups. Hair treatment agent for two-component permanent set.   The hair treatment agent for a two-component permanent set according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the first solution is an alkaline aqueous solution having a pH of 12 or less and an oxidation-reduction potential of minus 90 or less.   The hair treatment agent for a two-component permanent set according to claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein the second solution contains a stabilizer for transglutaminase.   The hair treatment agent for a two-component permanent set according to claim 4, wherein the stabilizer for transglutaminase is dextrin.   The hair was set in a desired shape in a state in which a first liquid composed of an aqueous solution containing a sericin hydrolysis product having a weight average molecular weight of 30,000 to 70,000 and a compound having two amino groups was brought into contact with the hair. A hair treatment method characterized by applying a permanent set by contacting with a second liquid comprising an aqueous buffer solution containing transglutaminase.   The hair treatment method of Claim 6 which contacts with a 1st liquid and a 2nd liquid at 40 degrees C or less.