JP2004019031A - Composite yarn capable of being dyed in various colors and flat yarn capable of being used for the same and fabric using them - Google Patents
Composite yarn capable of being dyed in various colors and flat yarn capable of being used for the same and fabric using them Download PDFInfo
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- JP2004019031A JP2004019031A JP2002174194A JP2002174194A JP2004019031A JP 2004019031 A JP2004019031 A JP 2004019031A JP 2002174194 A JP2002174194 A JP 2002174194A JP 2002174194 A JP2002174194 A JP 2002174194A JP 2004019031 A JP2004019031 A JP 2004019031A
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- yarn
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- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 43
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 11
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims description 25
- 239000010408 film Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 59
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 40
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 40
- 239000010409 thin film Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 40
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 claims abstract description 38
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 38
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 37
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 37
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 32
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000000853 adhesive Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000001070 adhesive effect Effects 0.000 claims description 6
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000010030 laminating Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N titanium oxide Inorganic materials [Ti]=O OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000002932 luster Substances 0.000 description 84
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 9
- PCHJSUWPFVWCPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N gold Chemical compound [Au] PCHJSUWPFVWCPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- 229910052737 gold Inorganic materials 0.000 description 9
- 239000010931 gold Substances 0.000 description 9
- ATJFFYVFTNAWJD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Tin Chemical compound [Sn] ATJFFYVFTNAWJD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 8
- 229910052718 tin Inorganic materials 0.000 description 8
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 description 7
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 7
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 6
- 239000002964 rayon Substances 0.000 description 6
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 5
- KDLHZDBZIXYQEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N Palladium Chemical compound [Pd] KDLHZDBZIXYQEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- BASFCYQUMIYNBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N platinum Chemical compound [Pt] BASFCYQUMIYNBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000012463 white pigment Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229920002292 Nylon 6 Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 239000000980 acid dye Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000002378 acidificating effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 229910052782 aluminium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- XAGFODPZIPBFFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N aluminium Chemical compound [Al] XAGFODPZIPBFFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- JEIPFZHSYJVQDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron(III) oxide Inorganic materials O=[Fe]O[Fe]=O JEIPFZHSYJVQDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229920000647 polyepoxide Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 229920001225 polyester resin Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 3
- JOYRKODLDBILNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethyl urethane Chemical compound CCOC(N)=O JOYRKODLDBILNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- PXHVJJICTQNCMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N Nickel Chemical compound [Ni] PXHVJJICTQNCMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- BQCADISMDOOEFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silver Chemical compound [Ag] BQCADISMDOOEFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000003822 epoxy resin Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229910052763 palladium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 229910052697 platinum Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 239000004645 polyester resin Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229910052709 silver Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 239000004332 silver Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000758 substrate Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920002803 thermoplastic polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 238000007738 vacuum evaporation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920002972 Acrylic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 241001609030 Brosme brosme Species 0.000 description 1
- VYZAMTAEIAYCRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Chromium Chemical compound [Cr] VYZAMTAEIAYCRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- RYGMFSIKBFXOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N Copper Chemical compound [Cu] RYGMFSIKBFXOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004593 Epoxy Substances 0.000 description 1
- IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene oxide Chemical group C1CO1 IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- VAYOSLLFUXYJDT-RDTXWAMCSA-N Lysergic acid diethylamide Chemical compound C1=CC(C=2[C@H](N(C)C[C@@H](C=2)C(=O)N(CC)CC)C2)=C3C2=CNC3=C1 VAYOSLLFUXYJDT-RDTXWAMCSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920002302 Nylon 6,6 Polymers 0.000 description 1
- RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titanium Chemical compound [Ti] RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- HCHKCACWOHOZIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Zinc Chemical compound [Zn] HCHKCACWOHOZIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000001768 cations Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052804 chromium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011651 chromium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000013329 compounding Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000470 constituent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052802 copper Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000010949 copper Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005260 corrosion Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007797 corrosion Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000982 direct dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- FPVGTPBMTFTMRT-NSKUCRDLSA-L fast yellow Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].C1=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C(N)=CC=C1\N=N\C1=CC=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=C1 FPVGTPBMTFTMRT-NSKUCRDLSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000000796 flavoring agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019634 flavors Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000012510 hollow fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052738 indium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- APFVFJFRJDLVQX-UHFFFAOYSA-N indium atom Chemical compound [In] APFVFJFRJDLVQX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000007733 ion plating Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000011133 lead Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910001092 metal group alloy Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000001465 metallisation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052759 nickel Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229920006284 nylon film Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000003973 paint Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920006122 polyamide resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000001681 protective effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009991 scouring Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000377 silicon dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004544 sputter deposition Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910052719 titanium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000010936 titanium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000001771 vacuum deposition Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000007740 vapor deposition Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 229910052725 zinc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011701 zinc Substances 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、精練や染色が可能であり、染料の組み合わせにより、金属光沢を抑制した極めて上品な金属光沢すなわち錆調の金属光沢を保った状態で、種々に染め分け可能な複合糸及びそれに使用可能な偏平糸並びにそれらを使用した布帛に関するものである。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
金属光沢を保った状態で、染め分け可能な複合糸及びそれを使用した布帛は従来知られている(特許第2896565号公報、特許第3229656号公報参照)。
そして従来のものは、ポリアミドフィルム片面に錫薄膜を形成してなる偏平糸又はナイロンフィルム片面上に金属蒸着層を設けた積層体を用いており、これらにより金属光沢を有しているものである。
【0003】
しかし、従来の染め分け可能な複合糸及びそれを使用した布帛に用いる上記の偏平糸及び積層体はいずれも、フィルム側から金属光沢を見るものであるが、その場合の金属光沢が、フィルム表面での光線の反射と、該フィルムの内側の錫薄膜表面又は金属蒸着層表面での光線の反射とがあいまって、鏡面光沢でギラギラしたケバケバしい、品がなく、重みのない、金属光沢となった。
【0004】
従って、金属光沢を抑制した極めて上品な金属光沢すなわち錆調の金属光沢を有するところの、種々に染め分け可能な複合糸及びそれを使用した布帛が切望されてきた。
特に、両面側がそれぞれ、鏡面光沢でギラギラしたケバケバしい金属光沢でなく、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢を有しており、かつ、両面側がそれぞれ、重みのある金属光沢である偏平糸又はスリット糸を使用した染め分け可能な複合糸は、変化に富んだ種々の態様のものを得ることができるため、かかる複合糸を使用した布帛は応用範囲も広いので、とりわけ切望されてきた。
【0005】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明は、前述の如き従来の欠点を除去して、両面側がそれぞれ、鏡面光沢でギラギラしたケバケバしい金属光沢でなく、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢を有しており、かつ、両面側がそれぞれ、重みのある金属光沢である偏平糸を使用した糸で、種々の染色方法、染色条件により、自然な染め分けが可能な複合糸及びそれに使用可能な偏平糸並びにそれらを使用した妙味ある染め分け可能な布帛の提供を課題とする。
【0006】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明では、常圧の染色条件で、異なる色調に染色可能な複数の糸を撚り合わせてなる複合糸を、前記糸の少なくとも一種に、ヘイズ値が5以下の透明ポリアミドフィルムの片面に樹脂層を形成したヘイズ値が20〜70であるシートAの前記樹脂層上に金属薄膜を形成した積層体の金属薄膜上に、ヘイズ値が5以下の透明ポリアミドフィルムの片面に樹脂層を形成したヘイズ値が20〜70であるシートBを、ポリアミドフィルムが外側となるように接着剤で貼り合わせてなる扁平糸を使用し、該偏平糸を、天然又は化学繊維糸の少なくとも一種と撚り合わせた複合糸とすることにより上記課題を解決した。
なお、上記扁平糸は、両面側がそれぞれキメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢を有していると同時に、両外側に存在しているポリアミドフィルムの表面が平滑であるので非常に重みのある金属光沢である偏平糸となる。
すなわち、本発明の偏平糸は、表面が凹凸の基材上に金属薄膜を形成したいわゆる艶消し金属光沢と異なり、ヘイズ値が20〜70であるシートの内側の金属薄膜表面での光線の反射により、両面側がそれぞれ、鏡面光沢でギラギラしたケバケバしい金属光沢でなく、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢を有していると同時に、両外側に存在しているポリアミドフィルム表面での光線の反射と、該フィルムの内側の金属薄膜表面での光線の反射とがあいまって、非常に重みのある金属光沢である偏平糸となるのである。しかも、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢を有しているため、上記複合糸としても、自然な金属光沢ある外観を有する染め分け可能な糸として、非常に広範な応用が可能となる。また、該複合糸や扁平糸を組織の一部に使用した布帛は、落ち着いた高貴な外観の製品に仕上げることができる。
【0007】
かかる扁平糸の製造に使用するポリアミドフィルムとしては、従来公知のポリアミドフィルム、例えばナイロン6フィルム、ナイロン66フィルム等がいずれも使用できる。
ポリアミドフィルムの厚さは、良好な風合いの偏平糸を得るには、6〜30μm、特に6〜15μm程度であるのが好ましく、厚さ30μmを越えると硬く風合が非常に悪くなり、また6μmより薄くなると弱く切れ易い。
【0008】
ポリアミドフィルム片面に形成する樹脂層は、ポリエステル樹脂、エポキシ樹脂、ウレタン系樹脂等適宜の樹脂で形成されればよいが、その厚さは0.1〜3μm程度、特に0.3〜1μm程度であるのが好ましい。
また、ポリアミドフィルムは、少くとも樹脂層を形成しない面側の表面が平滑で、艶があるものを使用するのがよい。
【0009】
樹脂層は、金属薄膜の剥離を防止するためのものであり、この厚さが0.1μmより薄いと、金属薄膜が剥離し易くなり、また、金属薄膜が腐食し易くなる。逆に3μmより厚くなると、偏平糸の風合が悪くなり、また染色時に染めむらを生ずる原因ともなる。
【0010】
樹脂層は、また,シートA、Bのヘイズ値を20〜70とするためのものであり、金属薄膜の両面に位置するシートA、Bのヘイズ値が20より低いと、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢を得ることが難しくなり、金属光沢が、鏡面光沢でギラギラしたケバケバしい金属光沢となる。逆にヘイズ値が70より高いと、金属光沢自体が消失して、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢は得られない。
シートA、Bのヘイズ値は、好ましくは25〜65、最も好ましくは30〜60である。
【0011】
シートA、Bのヘイズ値を20〜70とするには、ポリアミドフィルムの片面に形成する樹脂層を、白色顔料粉末等(例えば酸化チタン粉末又は/及びホワイトカーボン粉末)の無機粉末を混入した樹脂層とするのが好ましい。
白色顔料粉末等の混入量や種類は、できあがりのシートA、Bのヘイズ値20〜70の間で適宜選択することができる。
【0012】
白色顔料粉末等の混入量や種類及び樹脂層形成のための塗料の配合時の条件等を制御することによって、所望のヘイズ値のシートA、Bを得ることができる。シートA、Bのヘイズ値を20〜70とした場合には、樹脂層上に金属薄膜を設けることにより、ポリアミドフィルム側から見た金属光沢は、鏡面光沢でギラギラしたケバケバしい金属光沢でなく、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢となる。
そして、本発明の偏平糸は、両面側でそれぞれキメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢を有しているばかりでなく、両外側のポリアミドフィルムの表面が平滑であるので、ポリアミドフィルム表面での光線の反射と、該フィルムの内側の金属薄膜表面での光線の反射とがあいまって、偏平糸自体が、ケバケバしくなく、非常に重みのある金属光沢である偏平糸となるのである。
【0013】
次に、ヘイズ値が20〜70であるシートA(および必要に応じてシートB)の樹脂層上に形成される金属薄膜は、真空蒸着、スパッタリング、イオンプレーティング等の公知の薄膜生成法のいずれで形成されてもよい。
金属薄膜の厚さは、30〜100nm、特に40〜80nm程度であるのが好ましい。該厚さが、30nmより薄いと金属光沢が不十分であり、また100nmより厚いと密着力が弱くなり易い。
金属薄膜に使用される金属としては、錫、アルミニウム、クロム、ニッケル、銅、亜鉛、鉛、チタニウム、インジウム、金、銀、白金、パラジウム、等が例示されるが、作業性、コスト、錆調の金属光沢の落着き、金属光沢の重み、及び耐蝕性等を考慮したときは、中でも、錫及びアルミニウムが最も好ましい。高級品の用途には、金、銀、白金、パラジウム等が好ましい。
また、金属薄膜には、金属の合金や化合物も使用できる。
【0014】
本発明の偏平糸は、シートA(および必要に応じてシートB)の樹脂層上に形成した金属薄膜の上に、例えばポリアミド樹脂、ポリエステル樹脂、エポキシ系樹脂等の適宜の樹脂により保護膜を設けておいてもよい。
【0015】
本発明の偏平糸は、前記の通り、ヘイズ値が5以下の透明ポリアミドフィルムの片面に樹脂層を形成したヘイズ値が20〜70であるシートAの前記樹脂層上に金属薄膜を形成した積層体の金属薄膜上に、ヘイズ値が5以下の透明ポリアミドフィルムの片面に樹脂層を形成したヘイズ値が20〜70であるシートBを、ポリアミドフィルムが外側となるように接着剤で貼り合わせなるものであり、前記シートBの樹脂層上にも金属薄膜が形成されてもよいとされるものであるが、いずれの偏平糸を使用する場合にも、風合の点から、偏平糸全体の厚さが60μmを越えないようにするのが好ましく、偏平糸全体の厚さが33μm以下であれば特に好ましい。
なお、前記の通り、偏平糸を構成するポリアミドフィルムはヘイズ値5以下であり、外側表面が平滑であるので、このポリアミドフィルム表面での光線の反射と、該フィルムの内側の金属薄膜表面での光線の反射すなわちヘイズ値が20〜70であるシートA、Bの内側の金属薄膜表面での光線の反射とがあいまって、偏平糸は、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢を有するものとなる。すなわち、非常に上品な、重みのある金属光沢を有する偏平糸の提供が可能となるのである。
【0016】
本発明の偏平糸は、このように、両外側が、ヘイズ値20〜70であるシートA、Bからなり、両外側に、ヘイズ値5以下の透明ポリアミドフィルムが存在しているものである。両外側のシートA、Bのヘイズ値は、20〜70の間、好ましくは25〜65の間、最も好ましくは30〜60の間であれば、同じでもよく、また、異なっていてもよい。
両外側のシートA、Bのヘイズ値の差異が大体20を超えると、偏平糸は片面側と他の片面側とで異なった感じの錆調となりやすい。また、両外側のシートA、Bのヘイズ値の差異が大体20以内であれば、偏平糸は片面側と他の片面側とで同じような感じの錆調となる。いずれの場合も偏平糸は、両面側でそれぞれ、鏡面光沢でギラギラしたケバケバしい金属光沢でなく、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢を有しており、かつ重みのある金属光沢である。
また、染色後も両面側がそれぞれ、重みのある着色金属光沢となる偏平糸である。
【0017】
なお、偏平糸は、前記の如く接着剤で貼り合わせてなるフィルム積層品をスリットして製造されるが、その幅は、約0.1〜2.5mm程度であるのが好ましい。幅が0.1mmより狭いと、細すぎて弱く切れ易く、また2.5mmより広いと、太すぎて硬く風合が悪くなる。
【0018】
また、本願では、前述の如き偏平糸を布帛組織の少なくとも一部に使用した布帛をも発明の対象とするが、該布帛は、これらの糸を織物や編物の地組織の少なくとも一部に使用したものであっても、また、絵緯糸や刺繍糸等として部分的に使用したものであってもよい。
【0019】
次に、このような偏平糸と組み合わせて使用される糸は、常圧、常温(50〜100℃)染色可能な糸であれば、どのような糸でもよく、例えばカチオン染色可能なポリエステル繊維、アクリル繊維(カチオン染色可能)、レーヨン(直接染色可能、反応染色可能)、ポリアミド繊維(酸性染色可能)、ウール(酸性染色可能)、絹(酸性染色可能)等がいずれも使用可能であり、なお、異形断面糸や中空糸であってもよく、また、長繊維糸、短繊維糸のいずれからなるものであってもよい。
【0020】
なお、本発明の複合糸における偏平糸の割合は特に限定されないが、複合糸中の偏平糸の混率が5〜50%、特に10〜30%程度であるのが好ましい。5%より少ないと、金属光沢に欠け、また50%を越えると、硬すぎて風合が悪くなる。
【0021】
かかる本発明の複合糸の製造における交撚法は限定されないが、例えば、羽衣撚り、タスキ撚り、リング撚り、蛇腹撚り、丸撚り、偏平糸を芯糸とした精紡交撚、等々が挙げられる。
また、複合糸を後染色するため、固定した撚りが好ましい。従って、使用する糸の種類(本数)は多い方が好ましく、また、糸を2本使用したシングル撚りより、3本使用したダブル撚りや4本使用したトリプル撚りが好ましく、特にダブル撚りが好ましい。
なお、撚り数は250〜1500回/m、特に300〜1200回/m程度であるのが好ましい。撚り数が250回/mより少ないと染め分けが粗くなり、1500回/mを越えると染め分けが細かくなり過ぎて染め分けが不鮮明となる。また、染めムラが生じ易く、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢も低下する。この撚り数は、偏平糸と直接交撚する糸との撚り数である。
特に、撚り数が300〜1200回/mであると、染めムラがなく、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢を得ることができる。
【0022】
該複合糸は、糸の状態で染色されても、また、それを使用して形成した布帛を染色する際に染色されてもよい。いずれにしても、染色条件や染色方法を適当に選ぶことによって、一の複合糸を、フィルムの存在を感じさせない状態で、全体に自然な色に染め上げることができ、ヘイズ値が5以下の透明ポリアミドフィルムの片面に白色顔料粉末等を混入した樹脂層を形成したヘイズ値20〜70であるシートA、Bと金属薄膜による金属光沢が複合して、鏡面光沢によるギラギラしたケバケバしい金属光沢を生じることなく、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢を有するものとなし得るのである。
また、該金属光沢効果が、偏平糸を構成するポリアミドフィルムの両外側表面が平滑であるので、該フィルム表面での光線の反射と、該フィルムの内側の金属薄膜表面での光線の反射とがあいまって、ケバケバしくなく、非常に重みのある金属光沢効果を有するものともなし得るのである。
なお、本発明に係る染め分け可能な複合糸は、偏平糸及び偏平糸と組み合わせて使用される糸を、それぞれ異なった色に染めることが可能なのはもちろんであるが、複合糸を構成する各糸を同色に染めることもでき、複合糸を構成する各糸をどの様な色に染めるかは適宜選択できる。
そして、偏平糸は前記した通り、両面側がそれぞれキメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢を有しているばかりでなく、非常に重みのある金属光沢を有しているので、偏平糸と、それと組み合わせて使用される糸のうち少くとも一本とを同色に染めた場合でも、偏平糸自体は、非常に上品で、重みがある金属光沢を有するものとなる。
【0023】
なお、本願では、前述の如き複合糸を布帛組織の少なくとも一部に使用した染め分け可能な布帛をも発明の対象とするが、該布帛は、前述の如き複合糸を織物や編物の地組織の少なくとも一部に使用したものであっても、また、絵緯糸や刺繍糸等として部分的に使用したものであってもよい。
【0024】
本発明では、例えば、複合糸を構成する糸をそれぞれ異色に染色して、玉虫色に仕上げたり、同色でぼかし染めにすることも可能であり、また、布帛表面から捺染や引染を施して、変化に富んだ染色布帛を得ることもできる。更には、この複合糸を使用して縮緬布帛を製造し、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢効果と非常に重みがある金属光沢効果とを有し、しかも美しく染着された風合のよい縮緬を得ることもできる。
【0025】
【発明の実施の形態】
次に、本発明を実施例に従って、より詳しく説明する。ただし、本発明はこれらの実施例により制限されるものではない。
(シートのヘイズ値測定方法)
ヘイズメーター(日本電色社製NDH−300A)を使用して、フィルム面側を光源側として、JIS−K−7105に準じて測定した。
【0026】
【実施例】
実施例1〜7
(1) 偏平糸の製造
厚さ12μmのヘイズ値が3である透明ポリアミドフィルム(ナイロン6の二軸延伸フィルム)の片面に、ホワイトカーボン(日本シリカ工業社製)を添加量を変化させて混入したポリエステル/ウレタン樹脂による厚さ0.7μmの樹脂層を形成して、ヘイズ値がそれぞれ30、35、40、45、50、55及び60である7種類のシートAを得た。
次に、得られたそれぞれのシートAの樹脂層上に真空蒸着により厚さ50nmの錫薄膜を形成した。
次いで、該錫薄膜上に、上記と同様にして得た同様のヘイズ値の7種類のシートBの樹脂層面を、ウレタン系接着剤によりそれぞれ貼り合わせたものをスリットして、両外側のシートA、Bのヘイズ値が同じであり、両外側に表面が平滑であるポリアミドフィルムが存在している幅約0.3mmの7種類の偏平糸(約70デニール)を得た。
(2) 複合糸の製造
(1) で得た各偏平糸を中心にして、120デニールのカチオン染色可能なポリエステル原糸(三菱レイヨン社製)と75デニールのレーヨン原糸(クラレ社製)をそれぞれ350回/mの撚り数でダブル撚りして、7種類の複合糸を得た。偏平糸の混率はそれぞれ約20%であった。
なお、シートA、Bのヘイズ値の小のものから大のものに向かって順に実施例1〜7とした。
(3) 染色
(2) の各複合糸を、黄色の酸性染料と青色のカチオン染料と赤の直接染料を混合使用した染浴で、染色したところ、いずれの偏平糸も、鏡面光沢でギラギラしたケバケバしい金属光沢でなく、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調のゴールド色となり、またポリエステル原糸は青色、レーヨン原糸は赤色となり、その結果、各複合糸は、全体として、玉虫色を呈する糸で、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調のゴールド色を呈するものとなった。
また、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調のゴールド色の各偏平糸は、両面側が表面平滑であるので、偏平糸表面すなわちフィルム表面での光線の反射と、該フィルムの内側すなわちそれぞれ所定のヘイズ値であるシートA、Bの内側の錫薄膜表面での光線の反射とがあいまって、ケバケバしくなく、非常に重みのある金属光沢であった。
【0027】
実施例8
錫薄膜を形成した側のシートAとしてヘイズ値が60のシートを使用し、これに貼り合わせるシートBとしてヘイズ値が30のものを使用した他は実施例1〜7と同様にした。
染色後は、偏平糸は片面側と他の片面側とで異なった感じの錆調ではあったが、いずれの面側もそれぞれ、鏡面光沢でギラギラしたケバケバしい金属光沢でなく、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調のゴールド色をしており、ポリエステル原糸は青色、レーヨン原糸は赤色となり、全体として、玉虫色を呈する糸で、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調のゴールド色を呈するものとなった。
また、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調のゴールド色の偏平糸は、両面側が表面平滑であるので、非常に重みのある金属光沢であった。
【0028】
実施例9
(1) 偏平糸の製造
厚さ15μmのヘイズ値が3である透明ポリアミドフィルム(ナイロン6の二軸延伸フィルム)の片面に、酸化チタン(石原産業社製)を混入したエポキシ/ウレタン樹脂による厚さ1.0μmの樹脂層を形成して、ヘイズ値50のシートを得、次に樹脂層上に真空蒸着により厚さ50nmのアルミニウム薄膜を形成したものを2枚準備し、該2枚のフィルムをそれぞれアルミニウム薄膜面を内側としてウレタン系接着剤により貼り合わせたものをスリットして、両外側のシートA、Bのヘイズ値が同じであり、両外側の表面が平滑である幅約0.2mmの偏平糸(約54デニール)を得た。
(2) 複合糸の製造
(1) で得た偏平糸と70デニールの絹糸2本を、それぞれ450回/mの撚り数でダブル撚りした。なお、偏平糸の混率は約22.5%であった。
(3) 染色
(2) の複合糸を製織し、得られた織物を、絹精練し、全体をピンク色の酸性染料を含む染浴で90℃、40分間染色し、次いで、該織物の半分を青色の酸性染料を含む染浴で90℃、40分間染色した。その結果、該織物はピンク色と青色に染め分けられ、また、その境目はピンクと青のぼかし染めとなった雅趣ある染色布帛となり、しかも、全体に、偏平糸の金属光沢が、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢で、ピンク色と青色の地色とマッチした奥ゆかしい錆調の金属光沢を呈するものとなった。
また、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢の偏平糸は、両面側が表面平滑であるので、非常に重みのある金属光沢であった。
【0029】
【比較例】
比較例1
実施例1〜7に準じて得たシートA、Bのヘイズ値を15として、両外側のシートA、Bのヘイズ値が同じ15である偏平糸とした他は実施例1〜7と同様にした。
染色後は、偏平糸は金属光沢が、鏡面光沢でギラギラしたケバケバしいゴールド色、ポリエステル原糸は青色、レーヨン原糸は赤色となり、全体として、玉虫色を呈する糸に金色の金属光沢が細かくキラキラと輝いたものとなった。
比較例2
実施例1〜7に準じて得たシートA、Bのヘイズ値を75として、両外側のシートA、Bのヘイズ値が同じ75である偏平糸とした他は実施例1〜7と同様にした。
染色後は、偏平糸は金属光沢の現出していない黄色、ポリエステル原糸は青色、レーヨン原糸は赤色となり、全体として、金属光沢のない玉虫色を呈する糸になった。
【0030】
【発明の効果】
本発明の複合糸は、それを構成する糸、即ち偏平糸をも、常圧、常温(50〜100℃)で容易に染め分けることができるものである。従って、糸の状態でも、また編織後においても、種々の染色方法又は染色条件により、変化に富んだ、多くの色に染め分けることができる。
そして、その染色品は、ポリアミドフィルムの存在を感じさせない自然な色調及び風合となり、染色に応じた自然で上品な金属光沢でラメ効果を有するものとなる。
本発明の偏平糸は、両面側がそれぞれキメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢を有する偏平糸で、かつ、両面側が表面平滑であるので非常に重みのある金属光沢をした偏平糸であり、しかも、種々の染色方法、染色条件により、自然な染め分けが可能である。
すなわち、本発明の偏平糸は、表面が凹凸の基材上に金属薄膜を形成したいわゆる艶消し金属光沢と異なり、両面側がそれぞれ、鏡面光沢でギラギラしたケバケバしい金属光沢でなく、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢を有しているばかりでなく、両面側が表面平滑であるので、金属光沢が非常に重みがある。
つまり、本発明の偏平糸は、ヘイズ値が20〜70であるシートの内側の金属薄膜表面での光線の反射により、両面側がそれぞれ、鏡面光沢でギラギラしたケバケバしい金属光沢でなく、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢を有していると同時に、両外側に存在している平滑なポリアミドフィルム表面での光線の反射と、該フィルムの内側の金属薄膜表面での光線の反射とがあいまって、非常に重みのある金属光沢である偏平糸となるのである。
従って、該偏平糸を使用した複合糸及び該偏平糸を使用した布帛の染色品は、ポリアミドフィルムの存在を感じさせない自然な色調及び風合となり、染色に応じて、キメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢を有するものとなり、また、金属光沢効果が、両面側が表面平滑であるので非常に重みのある金属光沢効果を有するものともなる。
本発明の複合糸を使用した布帛は、後染で、染色条件に変化をつけるだけで、種々の色調や柄を有する製品に仕上げることができるので、多品種少量の製品を得ることも、非常に経済的に可能となる。
本発明の偏平糸を使用した布帛は、本発明の偏平糸が、両面側がそれぞれキメが細かく均一な落ち着いた錆調の金属光沢を有する偏平糸で、かつ、両外側が表面平滑であるので非常に重みのある金属光沢である偏平糸であるので、ポリアミドフィルムの存在を感じさせない自然な色調及び風合となり、自然で上品な金属光沢でラメ効果を有するものとなる。[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The present invention is capable of scouring and dyeing, and a composite yarn capable of being dyed in various ways while maintaining a very elegant metallic luster, that is, a rust-like metallic luster, with a suppressed metallic luster by a combination of dyes, and can be used for it. The present invention relates to a flat yarn and a fabric using the same.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Composite yarns that can be dyed while maintaining a metallic luster and fabrics using the same are conventionally known (see Japanese Patent Nos. 2889665 and 32229656).
And the conventional one uses a flat yarn formed by forming a tin thin film on one side of a polyamide film or a laminate in which a metal vapor deposition layer is provided on one side of a nylon film, and has a metallic luster. .
[0003]
However, the above-mentioned flat yarns and laminates used for the conventional dyeable composite yarn and the fabric using the same are all those that look at the metallic luster from the film side. And the reflection of the light on the surface of the tin thin film or the surface of the metal deposition layer on the inside of the film were combined, resulting in a specular glossy and glittery, non-productive, weightless, metallic luster. .
[0004]
Accordingly, there has been a long-felt need for a composite yarn which can be dyed in various ways and has a very elegant metallic luster with suppressed metallic luster, that is, a rust-like metallic luster, and a fabric using the same.
In particular, each side has a smooth, rust-like metallic luster with a fine and uniform texture, instead of a specular glossy and shiny metallic luster, and each side has a weighted metallic luster. Dyeable composite yarns using yarns or slit yarns can be obtained in a variety of various modes. Therefore, fabrics using such composite yarns have a wide range of applications and have been particularly desired.
[0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention eliminates the conventional drawbacks as described above, and the two sides each have a rust-like metallic luster with a fine and uniform texture, instead of a specular glossy and glaring metallic luster, and , Yarns using flat yarns with heavy metallic luster on both sides, respectively, composite yarns that can be naturally dyed according to various dyeing methods and dyeing conditions, flat yarns that can be used for the yarns, and flavors using them An object of the present invention is to provide a certain dyeable fabric.
[0006]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
In the present invention, a composite yarn formed by twisting a plurality of yarns that can be dyed in different colors under normal pressure dyeing conditions is used as at least one of the yarns, and a resin layer is formed on one surface of a transparent polyamide film having a haze value of 5 or less. A haze value of a transparent polyamide film having a haze value of 5 or less was formed on a metal thin film of a laminate in which a metal thin film was formed on the resin layer of the sheet A having a haze value of 20 to 70. A flat yarn obtained by laminating a sheet B having a value of 20 to 70 with an adhesive so that the polyamide film is on the outside, and twisting the flat yarn with at least one kind of natural or chemical fiber yarn. The above problem was solved by using a yarn.
In addition, the flat yarn has a smooth and rust-like metallic luster on both sides, each having a fine and uniform texture, and the surface of the polyamide film present on both outer sides is smooth. The resulting flat yarn has a certain metallic luster.
That is, the flat yarn of the present invention is different from a so-called matte metallic luster in which a metal thin film is formed on a substrate having an uneven surface, and reflects light rays on the metal thin film surface inside a sheet having a haze value of 20 to 70. Due to this, both sides have not only a metallic luster with a specular gloss but also a shiny metallic luster, but a fine, uniform and calm rust-like metallic luster, and at the same time the surface of the polyamide film present on both outer sides The combination of the reflection of the light beam and the reflection of the light beam on the metal thin film surface inside the film results in a flat yarn having a very heavy metallic luster. Moreover, since the texture has a fine and uniform calm rust-like metallic luster, it can be applied to the composite yarn as a dyeable yarn having a natural metallic luster appearance. . In addition, a fabric using the composite yarn or the flat yarn as a part of the structure can be finished into a product having a calm and noble appearance.
[0007]
As the polyamide film used for producing such a flat yarn, any of conventionally known polyamide films such as a nylon 6 film and a nylon 66 film can be used.
The thickness of the polyamide film is preferably from 6 to 30 μm, particularly preferably from about 6 to 15 μm, in order to obtain a flat yarn having a good texture, and if the thickness exceeds 30 μm, the texture becomes very hard and the texture becomes extremely poor. The thinner it is, the easier it is to cut.
[0008]
The resin layer formed on one side of the polyamide film may be formed of an appropriate resin such as a polyester resin, an epoxy resin, or a urethane-based resin, and has a thickness of about 0.1 to 3 μm, particularly about 0.3 to 1 μm. Preferably it is.
Further, it is preferable to use a polyamide film having a smooth and glossy surface at least on the side where the resin layer is not formed.
[0009]
The resin layer is for preventing peeling of the metal thin film. When the thickness is less than 0.1 μm, the metal thin film is easily peeled and the metal thin film is easily corroded. On the other hand, when the thickness is more than 3 μm, the feeling of the flat yarn becomes poor, and the dyeing becomes uneven during dyeing.
[0010]
The resin layer is also for adjusting the haze value of the sheets A and B to 20 to 70. If the haze value of the sheets A and B located on both sides of the metal thin film is lower than 20, the texture is fine and uniform. It becomes difficult to obtain a calm, rust-like metallic luster, and the metallic luster becomes a specular gloss and a glittery metallic luster. Conversely, if the haze value is higher than 70, the metallic luster itself disappears, and a calm, rust-like metallic luster with fine and uniform texture cannot be obtained.
The haze value of the sheets A and B is preferably 25 to 65, and most preferably 30 to 60.
[0011]
In order to set the haze value of the sheets A and B to 20 to 70, the resin layer formed on one surface of the polyamide film is formed by mixing a resin mixed with an inorganic powder such as a white pigment powder (for example, a titanium oxide powder and / or a white carbon powder). Preferably, it is a layer.
The mixing amount and type of the white pigment powder and the like can be appropriately selected from the haze values of the finished sheets A and B of 20 to 70.
[0012]
The sheets A and B having a desired haze value can be obtained by controlling the mixing amount and type of the white pigment powder and the like, and the conditions at the time of compounding the paint for forming the resin layer. When the haze value of the sheets A and B is set to 20 to 70, by providing a metal thin film on the resin layer, the metal gloss as viewed from the polyamide film side is not a metallic luster that is specular and glaring, The texture is fine and uniform, giving a calm rust-like metallic luster.
The flat yarn of the present invention has not only a fine and uniform texture on both sides, but also a calm rust-like metallic luster, and the surface of the polyamide film on both sides is smooth. The reflection of the light beam on the surface of the film and the reflection of the light beam on the metal thin film surface inside the film combine to make the flat yarn itself a non-glittering flat yarn having a very heavy metallic luster.
[0013]
Next, the metal thin film formed on the resin layer of the sheet A (and the sheet B as necessary) having a haze value of 20 to 70 is formed by a known thin film forming method such as vacuum deposition, sputtering, or ion plating. Any of them may be formed.
The thickness of the metal thin film is preferably about 30 to 100 nm, particularly preferably about 40 to 80 nm. If the thickness is less than 30 nm, the metallic luster is insufficient, and if it is more than 100 nm, the adhesion tends to be weak.
Examples of the metal used for the metal thin film include tin, aluminum, chromium, nickel, copper, zinc, lead, titanium, indium, gold, silver, platinum, and palladium. In consideration of the calmness of the metallic luster, the weight of the metallic luster, and the corrosion resistance, tin and aluminum are most preferable. Gold, silver, platinum, palladium and the like are preferred for high-grade applications.
Also, metal alloys and compounds can be used for the metal thin film.
[0014]
The flat yarn of the present invention is obtained by forming a protective film on a metal thin film formed on a resin layer of the sheet A (and, if necessary, the sheet B) with an appropriate resin such as a polyamide resin, a polyester resin, or an epoxy resin. It may be provided.
[0015]
As described above, the flat yarn of the present invention is obtained by forming a resin layer on one surface of a transparent polyamide film having a haze value of 5 or less, and laminating a metal thin film on the resin layer of the sheet A having a haze value of 20 to 70. A sheet B having a resin layer formed on one surface of a transparent polyamide film having a haze value of 5 or less and a haze value of 20 to 70 on a metal thin film of a body is bonded with an adhesive such that the polyamide film is on the outside. And a metal thin film may be formed on the resin layer of the sheet B. However, when any flat yarn is used, from the viewpoint of the feeling, the entire flat yarn is used. It is preferable that the thickness does not exceed 60 μm, and it is particularly preferable that the total thickness of the flat yarn is 33 μm or less.
As described above, since the polyamide film constituting the flat yarn has a haze value of 5 or less and the outer surface is smooth, the reflection of light on the polyamide film surface and the reflection of light on the metal thin film surface inside the film are performed. Reflection of light rays, that is, reflection of light rays on the surface of the metal thin film inside the sheets A and B having a haze value of 20 to 70 is combined with the flat yarn, which has a fine and uniform texture and has a calm rust-like metallic luster. It will be. That is, it is possible to provide a flat yarn having a very elegant and heavy metallic luster.
[0016]
As described above, the flat yarn of the present invention includes the sheets A and B having a haze value of 20 to 70 on both outer sides, and a transparent polyamide film having a haze value of 5 or less exists on both outer sides. The haze values of the outer sheets A and B may be the same or different as long as they are between 20 and 70, preferably between 25 and 65, and most preferably between 30 and 60.
When the difference between the haze values of the outer sheets A and B exceeds about 20, the flat yarn tends to have a different rust tone on one side and the other side. If the difference between the haze values of the outer sheets A and B is within approximately 20, the flat yarn has a similar rust on one side and the other side. In each case, the flat yarn has a calm, rust-like metallic luster with a fine and uniform texture on each side, instead of a specular glossy and shiny metallic luster on each side. is there.
Further, after dyeing, both sides are flat yarns each having a weighted colored metallic luster.
[0017]
In addition, the flat yarn is manufactured by slitting a film laminated product which is bonded with an adhesive as described above, and the width thereof is preferably about 0.1 to 2.5 mm. If the width is less than 0.1 mm, it is too thin and easily cut, and if it is more than 2.5 mm, it is too thick and hard to feel.
[0018]
Further, in the present application, a fabric using the flat yarn as described above for at least a part of the fabric structure is also an object of the invention. However, the fabric uses these yarns for at least a part of the ground structure of a woven or knitted fabric. May be used, or may be partially used as a picture weft thread, an embroidery thread, or the like.
[0019]
Next, the yarn used in combination with such a flat yarn may be any yarn as long as it can be dyed at normal pressure and normal temperature (50 to 100 ° C.), for example, a polyester fiber that can be dyed with a cation, Acrylic fiber (cationic dyeable), rayon (direct dyeable, reactive dyeable), polyamide fiber (acidic dyeable), wool (acidic dyeable), silk (acidic dyeable), etc. can all be used. The fiber may be a modified cross-section yarn or a hollow fiber, or may be a long fiber yarn or a short fiber yarn.
[0020]
The ratio of the flat yarn in the composite yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, but the mixing ratio of the flat yarn in the composite yarn is preferably 5 to 50%, particularly preferably about 10 to 30%. If it is less than 5%, the metallic luster will be lacking, and if it exceeds 50%, it will be too hard and the feel will be poor.
[0021]
The twisting method in the production of such a composite yarn of the present invention is not limited, and examples thereof include hagoromo twisting, tusk twisting, ring twisting, bellows twisting, round twisting, spinning twisting using a flat yarn as a core yarn, and the like. .
In order to post-dye the composite yarn, a fixed twist is preferred. Therefore, it is preferable that the type (number of yarns) of the yarns used is large. Further, double twisting using three yarns or triple twisting using four yarns is preferable to single twisting using two yarns, and double twisting is particularly preferable.
The number of twists is preferably about 250 to 1500 turns / m, particularly preferably about 300 to 1200 turns / m. If the number of twists is less than 250 turns / m, the dyeing will be coarse, and if it exceeds 1500 turns / m, the dyeing will be too fine and the dyeing will be unclear. In addition, uneven dyeing is liable to occur, and the calm rust-like metallic luster with fine and uniform texture is reduced. The number of twists is the number of twists between the flat yarn and the yarn that is directly twisted.
In particular, when the number of twists is 300 to 1200 times / m, there is no uneven dyeing, and fine and uniform texture of rust-like metallic luster can be obtained.
[0022]
The composite yarn may be dyed in the state of a yarn, or may be dyed when dyeing a fabric formed using the yarn. In any case, by appropriately selecting the dyeing conditions and the dyeing method, one composite yarn can be dyed into a natural color as a whole without causing the presence of the film, and the haze value is 5 or less. Sheets A and B having a haze value of 20 to 70 in which a resin layer in which a white pigment powder or the like is mixed on one side of a polyamide film are combined with a metallic luster by a metal thin film to produce a glittering metallic luster due to a mirror gloss. Without this, it is possible to obtain a fine and uniform texture having a calm rust-like metallic luster.
In addition, since the metal gloss effect is such that both outer surfaces of the polyamide film constituting the flat yarn are smooth, the reflection of light on the film surface and the reflection of light on the metal thin film surface inside the film are reduced. Together, they can be non-glittering and have a very heavy metallic luster effect.
The dyeable composite yarn according to the present invention can, of course, dye the flat yarn and the yarn used in combination with the flat yarn in different colors, respectively. The dyeing can be performed in the same color, and the color of each yarn constituting the composite yarn can be appropriately selected.
And, as described above, the flat yarn not only has a calm rust-like metallic luster on both sides on each side, but also has a very heavy metallic luster. Even when at least one of the yarns used in combination therewith is dyed in the same color, the flat yarn itself has a very elegant and heavy metallic luster.
[0023]
In the present application, a dyeable fabric using the composite yarn as described above for at least a part of the fabric structure is also an object of the present invention. However, the fabric is formed by using the composite yarn as described above in the ground structure of a woven or knitted fabric. It may be used at least partially, or may be used partially as a picture weft or embroidery thread.
[0024]
In the present invention, for example, it is also possible to dye the yarns constituting the composite yarn in different colors to finish them in iridescent colors or to make them blur-dyed in the same color. A dyed fabric rich in color can also be obtained. Further, a crepe fabric is manufactured using this composite yarn, and has a fine and uniform texture of a calm rust-like metallic luster and a very heavy metallic luster effect, and is beautifully dyed. Good crepe can also be obtained.
[0025]
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
Next, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. However, the present invention is not limited by these examples.
(Method of measuring sheet haze value)
Using a haze meter (NDH-300A manufactured by Nippon Denshoku Co., Ltd.), the measurement was performed according to JIS-K-7105, with the film surface side as the light source side.
[0026]
【Example】
Examples 1 to 7
(1) Production of Flat Yarn A white carbon (manufactured by Nippon Silica Kogyo Co., Ltd.) was mixed into one surface of a transparent polyamide film (biaxially stretched film of nylon 6) having a haze value of 3 and a thickness of 12 μm. A resin layer having a thickness of 0.7 μm was formed from the obtained polyester / urethane resin, and seven types of sheets A having haze values of 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, and 60, respectively, were obtained.
Next, a tin thin film having a thickness of 50 nm was formed on the resin layer of each of the obtained sheets A by vacuum evaporation.
Next, on the tin thin film, the resin layer surfaces of the seven types of sheets B having the same haze value obtained in the same manner as described above were bonded with a urethane-based adhesive, and the sheets A on both sides were slit. , B having the same haze value and seven types of flat yarn (approximately 70 denier) having a width of about 0.3 mm in which a polyamide film having a smooth surface exists on both outer sides.
(2) Manufacture of composite yarns With a focus on each flat yarn obtained in (1), a 120 denier cationic dyeable polyester yarn (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd.) and a 75 denier rayon yarn (Kuraray Co., Ltd.) were obtained. Each of them was double-twisted at a twist number of 350 times / m to obtain seven types of composite yarns. The mixing ratio of the flat yarns was about 20%.
In addition, Examples 1 to 7 were made in order of the haze values of the sheets A and B from the smaller one.
(3) Dyeing each of the composite yarns of (2) in a dye bath using a mixture of a yellow acid dye, a blue cationic dye, and a red direct dye, all of the flat yarns were glazed with specular gloss. Rather like a shiny metallic luster, the texture is fine and uniform, it has a calm rust-like gold color, the polyester yarn is blue, the rayon yarn is red, and as a result, each composite yarn has an iridescent yarn as a whole This gave a calm, rust-like gold color with a fine and uniform texture.
Also, each flat yarn of rust-like gold color with fine and uniform texture is smooth on both sides, so that the light reflection on the flat yarn surface, that is, the film surface, and the inside of the film, that is, each predetermined haze, The value was reflected by the reflection of light on the surface of the tin thin film inside the sheets A and B, and the metallic luster was not eccentric and very heavy.
[0027]
Example 8
A sheet having a haze value of 60 was used as the sheet A on which the tin thin film was formed, and a sheet B having a haze value of 30 was used as the sheet B to be bonded thereto, in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 7.
After dyeing, the flat yarn had a different rust tone on one side and the other one side, but on each side, the texture was fine and uniform, instead of a specular glossy and shiny metallic luster. It has a calm, rust-like gold color, the polyester yarn is blue, the rayon yarn is red, and as a whole, it is an iridescent yarn, with a fine, uniform, rust-like gold color. It became.
Also, the calm rust-like gold flat yarn with a fine and uniform texture had a very heavy metallic luster since both surfaces were smooth.
[0028]
Example 9
(1) Production of flat yarn Thickness of epoxy / urethane resin mixed with titanium oxide (manufactured by Ishihara Sangyo Co., Ltd.) on one side of a transparent polyamide film (biaxially stretched film of nylon 6) having a haze value of 3 and a thickness of 15 μm. A resin layer having a thickness of 1.0 μm was formed to obtain a sheet having a haze value of 50, and then two aluminum thin films having a thickness of 50 nm were formed on the resin layer by vacuum evaporation. Each of the sheets A and B on the outer side is the same in haze value, and the width on both sides is smooth about 0.2 mm. (About 54 denier).
(2) Production of composite yarn The flat yarn obtained in (1) and two 70-denier silk yarns were double-twisted at a twist of 450 times / m. The mixing ratio of the flat yarn was about 22.5%.
(3) Dyeing The composite yarn of (2) is woven, the resulting woven fabric is scoured with silk, and the whole is dyed in a dye bath containing a pink acid dye at 90 ° C. for 40 minutes, and then half of the woven fabric is dyed. Was dyed in a dye bath containing a blue acid dye at 90 ° C. for 40 minutes. As a result, the woven fabric is dyed pink and blue, and the boundary is an elegant dyed fabric with a pink and blue blur dyeing, and the metal luster of the flat yarn is fine and uniform throughout. With a calm rust-like metallic luster, it has a rust-like metallic luster that matches the pink and blue ground colors.
The calm, flat, rust-like metallic luster with a fine and uniform texture had a very heavy metallic luster because both surfaces were smooth.
[0029]
[Comparative example]
Comparative Example 1
Same as Examples 1 to 7, except that the haze value of sheets A and B obtained according to Examples 1 to 7 was 15, and the haze values of both outer sheets A and B were the same and the flat yarn was 15. did.
After dyeing, the flat yarn has metallic luster, specular luster and glittering gold color, polyester yarn is blue, rayon yarn is red, and as a whole, the metallic color of the iridescent yarn is fine and glittering It glowed.
Comparative Example 2
The haze value of the sheets A and B obtained according to Examples 1 to 7 was set to 75, and the sheet A and B on both outer sides were flat yarns having the same haze value of 75, except that they were flat yarns. did.
After dyeing, the flat yarn became yellow in which metallic luster did not appear, the polyester yarn became blue, and the rayon yarn became red, and as a whole, it became an iridescent yarn having no metallic luster.
[0030]
【The invention's effect】
The composite yarn of the present invention can easily dye the constituent yarn, that is, the flat yarn, at normal pressure and normal temperature (50 to 100 ° C.). Therefore, even in the state of yarn and after weaving, various colors can be dyed in various colors by various dyeing methods or dyeing conditions.
Then, the dyed product has a natural color tone and texture that does not make the presence of the polyamide film feel, and has a lame effect with a natural and elegant metallic luster according to the dyeing.
The flat yarn of the present invention is a flat yarn having a smooth and rust-like metallic luster on both sides, each having a fine and uniform texture, and a flat yarn having a very heavy metallic luster because both sides have a smooth surface. In addition, natural dyeing is possible by various dyeing methods and dyeing conditions.
That is, the flat yarn of the present invention is different from a so-called matte metallic luster in which a metal thin film is formed on a substrate having an uneven surface, and the both sides are not mirror-like and glittery metallic luster, but are fine and uniform in texture. In addition to having a calm, rust-like metallic luster, the metallic luster is very heavy since both surfaces are smooth.
In other words, the flat yarn of the present invention has a haze value of 20 to 70, and the light is reflected on the metal thin film surface inside the sheet, and the two sides are not shiny metallic luster, but have a fine texture. While having a uniform calm rust-like metallic luster, the reflection of light rays on the surface of the smooth polyamide film present on both sides, and the reflection of light rays on the surface of the metal thin film inside the film Combined with a flat yarn with a very heavy metallic luster.
Therefore, the dyed product of the composite yarn using the flat yarn and the fabric using the flat yarn has a natural color tone and feeling that does not feel the presence of the polyamide film, and according to the dyeing, the texture is fine and uniform. The metallic luster has a rust-like metallic luster, and the metallic luster effect has a very heavy metallic luster effect because both surfaces are smooth.
Fabrics using the composite yarn of the present invention can be finished into products having various colors and patterns only by changing the dyeing conditions by post-dyeing. Economically possible.
In the fabric using the flat yarn of the present invention, the flat yarn of the present invention is very flat because both sides are fine and uniform and have a calm rust-like metallic luster, and both outer surfaces have a smooth surface. Since the flat yarn has a heavy metallic luster, it has a natural color tone and feeling that does not make the presence of the polyamide film feel, and has a glitter effect with a natural and elegant metallic luster.
Claims (9)
ヘイズ値が5以下の透明ポリアミドフィルムの片面に樹脂層を形成したヘイズ値が20〜70であるシートAの前記樹脂層上に金属薄膜を形成した積層体の金属薄膜上に、ヘイズ値が5以下の透明ポリアミドフィルムの片面に樹脂層を形成したヘイズ値が20〜70であるシートBを、ポリアミドフィルムが外側となるように接着剤で貼り合わせてなる扁平糸を使用し、
該偏平糸を天然又は化学繊維糸の少なくとも一種と撚り合わせてなることを特徴とする染め分け可能な複合糸。Under normal pressure dyeing conditions, a plurality of yarns that can be dyed in different colors are twisted, and at least one of the yarns
The transparent polyamide film having a haze value of 5 or less has a resin layer formed on one surface and a haze value of 20 to 70. Using a flat yarn obtained by laminating a sheet B having a haze value of 20 to 70 in which a resin layer is formed on one surface of the following transparent polyamide film with an adhesive such that the polyamide film is on the outside,
A dyeable composite yarn characterized by twisting the flat yarn with at least one kind of natural or chemical fiber yarn.
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| JP2002174194A JP3704326B2 (en) | 2002-06-14 | 2002-06-14 | Dyeable composite yarn, flat yarn usable for the same, and fabric using them |
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| JP3704326B2 JP3704326B2 (en) | 2005-10-12 |
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| CN103590164A (en) * | 2013-10-14 | 2014-02-19 | 吴江市巨诚喷织有限公司 | Yarn-dyed checked fabric production method |
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