JP2000220055A - Production of bulky woven knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a bulky woven knitted fabric suitable for outerwears by heat-treating a woven knitted fabric comprising spun yarn including heat-fusible fibers and specified shrinkable polyester staple fibers so as to fuse-bond the constituent fibers. SOLUTION: This woven knitted fabric consists of spun yarn including 3-50 wt.%; fusing fiber such as a sheath-core fiber having a sheath of a binder component e.g. low melting coplyester and >=30 wt.% highly shrinkable polyester staple fibers having 18-80%; dry-heat shrinkage factor and the fabric is heat- treated in the finishing process at a temperature higher than melting point of the binder component of the fusing fiber so as to fuse-band the constituent fibers and to impart bulkiness, tenseness and stiffness.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a bulky woven or knitted fabric used for outer garments.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as a method for imparting bulkiness to a fabric such as a woven fabric using a spun yarn, heat treatment is performed after fabricating using a spun yarn mixed with high shrinkage cotton, and the difference in heat shrinkage is obtained. In addition, it has been practiced to impart unevenness to yarns and fabrics to impart bulkiness. However, this method has a problem in that it is unsatisfactory in terms of bulkiness, and it is only possible to obtain a material that is poor in stiffness in terms of feeling.

[0003]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made in view of the above situation, and has as its object to provide a method for producing a woven or knitted fabric having excellent bulkiness and tightness. .

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made to solve the above-mentioned problems, and comprises a heat-bonded fiber of 3 to 30% and a polyester short fiber having a dry heat shrinkage of 18 to 80% of 30%.
The gist of the present invention is a method for producing a bulky woven or knitted fabric, which comprises heat-treating a woven or knitted fabric comprising the above-mentioned spun yarn in a finishing step and fusing the heat-fused fibers.

[0005]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

In the present invention, 3 to 50 heat-fused fibers are used.
%, And a spun yarn containing 30% or more of high-shrink polyester short fibers having a dry heat shrinkage of 18 to 80%. The heat fusion fiber is a fiber having a polymer having a melting point lower than the melting point or decomposition point of ordinary polyester as a binder component. This heat-fused fiber may be a single-component fiber composed of only a binder component, such as a core-sheath type, a side-by-side type, a sea-island type, a split type, in which the binder component forms all or a part of the surface of the fiber. Conjugate fiber.
As described above, the binder component of the heat-fusible fiber may be a polymer having a melting point lower than the melting point or decomposition point of ordinary polyester, and the melting point is preferably 100 to 200 ° C. If the melting point is less than 100 ° C., the resin is melted by the heat which can be normally applied during the dyeing process, and it becomes difficult to control the melting point. If the temperature exceeds 200 ° C., it is difficult to melt in the heat setting step at the time of finish processing, and there is a possibility that the effect due to fusion may be hardly obtained. Examples of such polymers include polyethylene,
Examples thereof include polypropylene copolymerized nylon and copolymerized polyester. Examples of copolymerized polyesters include polyethylene terephthalate, isophthalic acid, sebacic acid,
There are copolymers of two or more compounds selected from adipic acid, diethylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol, and the like, but ethylene terephthalate units and / or butylene terephthalate units have ε-caprolactone units. Polymerized polyester with melting point of 130 ° C
The use of the above polyester is advantageous because the heat-fused fibers do not dissolve during the dyeing even when dyed at 130 ° C.

In the present invention, the blending ratio of the heat-fusible fiber is
It is 3 to 50%, preferably 5 to 30%. If the blending ratio of the heat-fused fiber is less than 3%, the heat-sealable portion of the woven or knitted fabric has few fused portions and the bulkiness is not sufficiently maintained. If it exceeds 50%, the fused portion becomes too large. It becomes a hard woven or knitted fabric.

The fiber length and fineness of the heat-fused fiber are not limited, but a fiber length of 38 to 76 mm and a fineness of 1 to 10 denier is suitable.

The high shrinkage polyester short fiber used in the present invention is a polyester short fiber having a dry heat shrinkage of 18 to 80%, and if the dry heat shrinkage is less than 18%,
The difference in shrinkage from other blended staple fibers is reduced, and unevenness caused by heat treatment in the post-processing step of the woven or knitted fabric is not sufficiently generated, so that good bulkiness cannot be obtained. Dry heat shrinkage of 8
If it exceeds 0%, a peeling phenomenon from other blended short fibers occurs, and a good woven fabric cannot be obtained.

[0010] The high shrinkage polyester short fiber as described above can be obtained by preparing a heat treatment in a drawing step after melt spinning of polyethylene terephthalate, and has a high shrinkage property obtained by copolymerizing a third component into polyethylene terephthalate units. Can be obtained by spinning and stretching using a polyester which is easy to obtain. As an example in which the third component is copolymerized, terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol are copolymerized with phthalic acid as the third component.

In the present invention, the blend ratio of the high-shrink polyester short fibers is 30% or more. When the blending ratio of the high shrinkage polyester short fiber is less than 30%, the bulkiness of the woven or knitted fabric cannot be satisfied.

The fiber length and fineness of the high-shrink polyester short fiber are not limited, but the fiber length is 38 to 76 mm and the fineness is 1 to 1.
10 denier is suitable.

In the present invention, the spun yarn may be a spun yarn composed of only two kinds of fibers, a heat-fused fiber and a high-shrinkage polyester short fiber, but may be a mixture of other fibers. Typical textile fibers include vegetable fibers such as cotton and hemp, animal fibers such as wool and silk, recycled fibers such as rayon and acetate, and synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon, acrylic, and vinylon. And the choice is good depending on the purpose. The fiber length and fineness of the third fiber may be set according to the former two or the spinning method.

The number of twists in the spinning of the spun yarn may be an ordinary level, and the twist coefficient obtained by dividing the number of twists by the square root of the count may be set to a value between 2.8 and 3.6. In the present invention, a woven or knitted fabric is obtained by using the above-mentioned blended yarn. Any structure or weaving method may be used for the woven or knitted fabric.

The woven or knitted fabric thus obtained is subjected to a heat treatment at a temperature higher than the melting point of the binder component of the heat-fusible fiber, whereby the woven or knitted fabric is made bulky by shrinking the high-shrinkage polyester short fiber and heat is applied. The constituent fibers are fused with the binder component of the fused fibers to maintain bulkiness and to give a firmness. The heat treatment may be performed in either a pre-setting step or a finishing setting step in a normal step.

[0016]

The present invention will be described below in more detail with reference to examples. In the examples, the evaluation of the woven fabric was performed by the following method. (1) Bulkiness Ten panelists: 〇: excellent bulkiness, △: bulkiness is normal. , ×: Lack of bulkiness was evaluated on a three-point scale, and the sample with the largest number of evaluators was used to evaluate the bulkiness of the sample. (2) Tensile waist Ten panelists: 〇: Excellent waist, Δ: Normal waist. , ×: Evaluation was made in three stages of no tension, and the sample with the largest number of evaluators was used to evaluate the tension of the sample.

Example 1 Ethylene terephthalate unit / butylene terephthalate unit (molar ratio 1/1) as a binder component and 15 mol% of ε-caprolactone based on the total number of moles of this alkylene terephthalate unit and ε-caprolactone.
The polyester polymer blended and copolymerized in the sheath,
A high-shrink polyester short fiber having a dry heat shrinkage of 70%, a fiber length of 51 mm, and a fineness of 1.5 denier, comprising a core-sheath type heat-fused conjugate fiber in which polyethylene terephthalate is disposed in the core and polyethylene terephthalate. The blending rate is 1
Blended in a conventional manner at 5:85 to obtain a spun yarn of 20th count (English count) with a twist number of 14.3 turns / inch (twist coefficient 3.2), and use this spun yarn as warp yarn. Density 125 /
A 2/1 twill fabric was obtained at an inch and a weft density of 66 lines / inch. The obtained fabric is subjected to a desizing / scouring process, a relaxation process, a pre-setting process, a calcining process, an alkali weight reduction process, a dyeing process, a finishing process through a finishing setting process, and a pre-setting process in these processes. Heat treatment at 180 ° C. for 30 seconds was performed to obtain a bulky woven fabric according to the present invention.

EXAMPLE 2 Ethylene terephthalate unit / butylene terephthalate unit (molar ratio 1/1) as a binder component and ε-caprolactone in an amount of 15 mol% based on the total number of moles of the whole alkylene terephthalate unit and ε-caprolactone.
The polyester polymer blended and copolymerized in the sheath,
A core-sheath type heat-fused conjugate fiber in which polyethylene terephthalate is disposed in the core, and a dry heat shrinkage ratio of polyethylene terephthalate of 70%, a fiber length of 51 mm and a fineness of 1.5
A blend ratio of a high-shrink polyester short fiber of denier and a normal polyester short fiber of polyethylene terephthalate having a dry heat shrinkage of 3%, a fiber length of 51 mm and a fineness of 1.5 denier is 15:30: Blended in the usual manner as 55, and twisted at 14.3 twists / inch (twist coefficient 3.2).
A spun yarn of No. 0 (English count) was obtained, and this spun yarn was used as warp yarn to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 125 yarns / inch and a weft density of 66 yarns / inch with a 2/1 twill structure. The obtained fabric is desized and
Perform the finishing process through the scouring process, relaxation process, presetting process, hair burning process, alkali weight reduction process, dyeing process, and finishing setting process, and perform heat treatment at 180 ° C for 30 seconds in the presetting process in these processes. Thus, a bulky woven fabric according to the present invention was obtained.

Example 3 The spun yarn of the 20th count used in Example 1 was used for the warp and polyethylene terephthalate was used as the weft.
Using a twin yarn of 00 denier 24 filament false twisted yarn, a warp density of 125 yarns / inch and a weft density of 66 yarns / inch are 2/1.
Weaving twill fabric, desizing / scouring process, relaxing process, presetting process, hair burning process, alkali weight reduction process,
A finishing process including a dyeing process and a finishing setting process is performed.
After a second heat treatment, a bulky woven fabric according to the present invention was obtained.

Comparative Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate having a dry heat shrinkage of 70
%, A high shrinkage polyester short fiber having a fiber length of 51 mm and a fineness of 1.5 denier, and a dry heat shrinkage rate of 3% made of polyethylene terephthalate, a fiber length of 51 mm and a fineness of 1.5 denier Mixed with a polyester short fiber at a blending ratio of 30:70 by a conventional method.
A spun yarn of 20th count (English count) was obtained at 3 turns / inch (twist coefficient 3.2), and the spun yarn was used as warp yarn and the warp density was 12
A woven fabric having a 2/1 twill structure was obtained at 5 yarns / inch and a weft density of 66 yarns / inch. The obtained fabric is subjected to a desizing / scouring process, a relaxation process, a pre-setting process, a calcining process, an alkali weight reduction process, a dyeing process, a finishing process through a finishing setting process, and a pre-setting process in these processes. 180 ℃ × 30
A second heat treatment was performed to obtain a bulky woven fabric as a comparative example.

Table 1 also shows the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabrics of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1.

[0022]

[Table 1]

As is clear from Table 1, Examples 1 to 3 according to the present invention are excellent in bulkiness and stiffness, whereas Comparative Example 1 in which no heat-fused fiber is used is heat-resistant. Since there was no fusion between the fibers by the fusion fibers, the retention of unevenness generated in the woven fabric was poor, and the stretchability was poor.

[0024]

According to the present invention, a woven or knitted fabric having good bulkiness and tightness can be stably provided.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A high-shrink polyester short fiber having a heat-fused fiber content of 3 to 50% and a dry heat shrinkage of 18 to 80% is 30%.
A method for producing a bulky woven or knitted fabric, comprising heat-treating a woven or knitted fabric comprising the above-mentioned spun yarn in a finishing step and fusing the heat-fused fiber.