HK40087437B - Spun yarn having two-layer structure, and woven or knitted fabric - Google Patents

Description

Double-layered textile yarns and woven fabrics

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a double-layered textile yarn having a core and a sheath in a cross section perpendicular to the yarn length direction, and to a double-layered textile yarn comprising a core of bicomponent composite short fibers composed of polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate, and to woven fabrics obtained from the textile yarn.

Background Technology

In the past, as a fiber that can produce woven fabrics with stretchability, long-short composite textile yarns were widely used in textile yarns. These yarns consisted of a core of stretchable filaments such as polyurethane and covered with short fibers of natural fibers such as kapok and synthetic fibers.

However, polyurethane has problems such as high embrittlement caused by chemicals like chlorine and low colorfastness. Furthermore, polyurethane filament breakage often occurs during the manufacturing or post-processing of woven fabrics, leading to a reduction in the quality of the resulting woven products. Additionally, when the woven fabric is used in items such as trousers, repeated bending and stretching of the knees can cause the polyurethane's tensile resilience to deteriorate, resulting in wear and tear at the knees. In recent years, there has been a desire to use textile yarns with superior tensile properties that do not utilize polyurethane.

For the reasons mentioned above, fibers using poly(propylene terephthalate) or poly(butylene terephthalate) have been developed in recent years, as well as composite fibers in which poly(propylene terephthalate) and poly(ethylene terephthalate) are bonded together in a side-by-side manner (see, for example, Patent Document 1).

These fibers have the disadvantages of polyurethane, namely, excellent performance in terms of degradation caused by chlorine and tearing at the knees, but they are filaments rather than yarns, so the resulting woven fabrics feel stiff and are less comfortable to wear in terms of stretch, absorbency, and moisture absorption.

In addition, in Patent Document 2, as a textile yarn that can produce a stretchable fabric with a dry feel and a soft touch to the skin, a core-spun yarn is proposed, which is formed by placing a composite fiber (long fiber) made by bonding poly(propylene terephthalate) and poly(ethylene terephthalate) in a side-by-side configuration as the core yarn and surrounding it with short cotton fibers.

While the core-spun yarn described in Patent Document 2 can produce woven fabrics with a soft feel against the skin, its purpose is to obtain thin, flat, and stretchy fabrics, making it difficult to obtain woven fabrics with excellent bulk and water absorption. In addition, the core uses long fibers, making it difficult to balance softness and stretch.

Furthermore, as a known method for manufacturing core-spun yarn, as described in Patent Document 3, the following method is known: In a worsted spinning machine during the spinning process, while applying a certain tension to the long fiber yarn via a feed roller, a front roller connected to the short fiber bundle in the drafting process of the worsted spinning machine is fed, and a certain mass of long fiber yarn and short fiber are twisted together in the yarn axial direction. By installing a feed roller on the worsted spinning machine and inserting long fibers into the center of the roving spun from the front roller, a core-spun yarn with a high coverage ratio can be obtained. However, if the tension of the long fiber yarn and the roving changes, the coverage ratio of the long fiber yarn based on the short fiber will also change, resulting in the long fiber yarn forming the core being exposed on the surface of the composite yarn, which has the disadvantage of being prone to pilling when the fabric is made.

Existing technical documents

Patent documents

Patent Document 1: Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2009-46800

Patent Document 2: Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2003-221743

Patent Document 3: Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2008-248402

Summary of the Invention

Problem solved by the present invention

The objective of this invention is to provide a double-layered textile yarn that exhibits excellent anti-pilling and tensile properties when manufactured into woven products.

Solution for solving the problem

In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the inventors conducted in-depth research and discovered the following insights, thus completing the present invention: Instead of using long fibers in the core to obtain core-spun yarn, a double-layer structure textile yarn is made of short fibers in both the core and sheath. The core uses a specific amount of bicomponent composite short fibers composed of polyethylene terephthalate and propylene terephthalate to produce a double-layer structure textile yarn with monofilament tensile strength, twist coefficient K, and hot water dimensional change rate meeting specific ranges. This allows the yarn to fully exhibit the bulkiness and stretchability brought by the bicomponent composite short fibers in the core, and it can have excellent anti-pilling and stretchability when made into woven products.

That is, the present invention provides inventions in the manner described in (A) to (H) below.

(A) A double-layer structure textile yarn having a core and a sheath in a cross section perpendicular to the yarn length direction, both the core and the sheath being formed of short fibers, the core comprising a bicomponent composite short fiber composed of polyethylene terephthalate and propylene terephthalate, the double-layer structure textile yarn containing 20% to 70% by mass of the bicomponent composite short fiber, and satisfying all the characteristic values of (1) to (3) below.

(1) The tensile strength of a single filament is above 1.0 cN/dtex;

(2) The twist coefficient K is 120-180;

(3) The size change rate of hot water is above 4.0%.

(B) The double-layer structure textile yarn according to (A), wherein the sheath comprises cellulose short fibers and the double-layer structure textile yarn contains 30% to 70% by mass of cellulose short fibers.

(C) The double-layer structure textile yarn according to (A), wherein the sheath comprises animal hair fibers, and the double-layer structure textile yarn comprises 30% to 70% by mass of animal hair fibers.

(D) A double-layer structure textile yarn according to any one of (A) to (C), wherein the total mass of the single fibers forming the core is 30 to 70: 70 to 30.

(E) A double-layer structure textile yarn according to any one of (A) to (D), wherein the bicomponent composite staple fiber is a composite staple fiber formed by side-by-side tape bonding of polyethylene terephthalate and propylene terephthalate.

(F) The double-layer structure textile yarn according to (E), wherein the cross-sectional shape of the bicomponent composite short fiber in the direction perpendicular to the length direction is an oval shape with a groove on the outer periphery, and the bicomponent composite short fiber satisfies all the characteristic values of (a) to (e) below.

(a) The aspect ratio A∶B (A is the length of the major axis of the cross section, and B is the length of the minor axis of the cross section) is 1.8∶1～1.2∶1;

(b) The fineness of a single fiber is 0.8–3.0 dtex;

(c) The fiber length is 30–60 mm;

(d) Tensile strength is 2.0–4.0 cN/dtex;

(e) The number of the grooves is 2 or more.

(G) A fabric comprising any one of (A) to (F) a double-layered textile yarn.

(H) A woven fabric comprising any one of (A) to (F) double-layered textile yarns.

Invention Effects

The core of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention uses a specific amount of bicomponent composite short fibers composed of polyethylene terephthalate and polypropylene terephthalate. By ensuring that the tensile strength of the monofilament, the twist coefficient K, and the dimensional change rate in hot water meet specific ranges, the fluffiness and stretchability brought by the bicomponent composite short fibers in the core can be fully expressed, resulting in woven fabrics with excellent soft stretchability, fluffiness, water absorption, and pilling resistance.

Therefore, the woven fabric of the present invention is suitable as a clothing material for both outer and inner wear.

Attached Figure Description

Figure 1 is a schematic diagram showing one embodiment of the cross-sectional shape of the bicomponent composite short fiber used in the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention.

Figure 2 is a schematic diagram illustrating one embodiment of a roving machine used in the manufacturing process of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention.

Figure 3 is a schematic diagram illustrating one embodiment of a roving machine used in the manufacturing process of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention.

Detailed Implementation

1. Double-layer structure textile yarn

The double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention is a double-layer structure textile yarn having a core and a sheath in a cross-section perpendicular to the yarn length direction. Its characteristic is that both the core and the sheath are formed of short fibers. The core comprises a bicomponent composite short fiber composed of polyethylene terephthalate and propylene terephthalate. The double-layer structure textile yarn contains 20% to 70% by mass of the said bicomponent composite short fiber, and the monofilament tensile strength, twist coefficient K, and hot water dimensional change rate meet specific ranges. The double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention will be described in detail below.

[Core]

The core of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention comprises a bicomponent composite staple fiber composed of polyethylene terephthalate and propylene terephthalate. In the present invention, "bicomponent composite staple fiber" refers to a staple fiber in which two different polymers are bonded together in a single fiber.

The bicomponent composite staple fiber used in this invention is composed of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and propylene terephthalate (PPD). Because it is composed of these two polymers, the bicomponent composite staple fiber, through heat treatment, exhibits crimp properties (potential crimp performance), thus imparting bulk and stretchability to woven fabrics made using the bilayer structure yarn of this invention.

In the bicomponent composite short fiber used in this invention, the mass ratio of poly(ethylene terephthalate) to poly(propylene terephthalate) is preferably 35/65 to 65/35, more preferably 40/60 to 60/40.

In the bicomponent composite short fibers used in this invention, there are no particular restrictions on the composite method of polyethylene terephthalate and polypropylene terephthalate. However, from the viewpoint of having excellent potential crimp properties and further improving the tensile strength of woven products obtained by using the bilayer structure textile yarn of this invention, a side-by-side type is preferred, that is, a structure in which polyethylene terephthalate and polypropylene terephthalate are bonded together in a side-by-side manner.

When the bicomponent composite short fibers used in this invention are in a side-by-side configuration, the cross-sectional shape (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as "cross-sectional shape") perpendicular to the length direction is preferably an oval shape, with grooves on the outer periphery of the oval shape. The number of grooves is preferably two or more, and a snowman-shaped cross-sectional shape with two grooves is particularly preferred. Specifically, the term "snowman-shaped cross-sectional shape with two grooves" refers to a shape in which, on the outer periphery of the junction of the polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and propylene terephthalate (PPT) formed by bonding them in a side-by-side configuration, a recess (groove) is provided at the outer periphery of the oval shape. For example, the cross-sectional shape shown in FIG1 can be cited. By having such a cross-sectional shape with grooves, it is easier to exhibit curling.

When the bicomponent composite short fibers used in this invention are of the side-by-side type, there is no particular limitation on the aspect ratio (A:B) of the major axis length A and minor axis length B in the cross-sectional shape. The aspect ratio (A:B) is preferably 1.8:1 to 1.2:1, and more preferably 1.6:1 to 1.4:1. By satisfying the above range for the aspect ratio (A:B), it can have sufficient potential crimping performance while exhibiting good crimping rigidity and excellent tensile resilience. Here, the major axis length A refers to the length of the longest line segment connecting the ends of the cross-sectional shape, and the minor axis length B refers to the length of the line segment passing through the midpoint of the line segment for which the major axis length is determined and connecting the ends on a straight line orthogonal to the major axis length. For example, the major axis length A and minor axis length B in the case of a snowman-shaped cross-sectional shape with two grooves are shown in Figure 1.

The single fiber fineness of the bicomponent composite staple fiber used in this invention is preferably 0.8 dtex to 3.0 dtex, and more particularly, from the perspective of the tensile resilience and hand feel of the woven fabric obtained by using the bilayer structure yarn of this invention, it is preferably 1.7 dtex to 2.2 dtex. The single fiber fineness of the bicomponent composite staple fiber is a value determined according to the method described in "8.5.1 Critical Fineness" "a) Method A" of JIS L 1015:2010 "Test Methods for Chemical Fibers and Staple Fibers".

Furthermore, the fiber length of the bicomponent composite short fiber used in this invention can be appropriately adjusted according to the type of short fiber used in the sheath, preferably 20mm to 50mm, more preferably 25mm to 50mm. The fiber length of the bicomponent composite short fiber is determined according to the method described in JIS L 1015:2010 "Test Methods for Short Fibers of Chemical Fibers" under "8.4.1 Average Fiber Length" and "a) Short Fiber Length Distribution Map Method (Method A)".

Furthermore, there are no particular limitations on the tensile strength of the bicomponent composite staple fiber used in this invention, but it is preferably 2.0 cN/dtex to 4.0 cN/dtex, more preferably 3.0 cN/dtex to 4.0 cN/dtex. By satisfying such tensile strength, sufficient strength can be imparted to the bilayer structure textile yarn, making it less prone to yarn breakage during the production of woven products, and enabling the resulting woven products to have adequate strength and anti-pilling properties. The tensile strength of the bicomponent composite staple fiber is measured according to the method described in JISL 1015:2010 "Test Methods for Chemical Fibers (Staple Fibers)" under "8.7 Tensile Strength and Elongation" and "8.7.1 Standard Time Test," with a clamp interval of 20 mm and a tensile speed of 20 mm/min.

The bicomponent composite short fiber contained in the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention is 20% to 70% by mass, preferably 30% to 65% by mass, and more preferably 30% to 45% by mass. If the proportion of bicomponent composite short fiber is less than 20% by mass, the crimp caused by the bicomponent composite short fiber is reduced, and the resulting woven product cannot be endowed with stretch and fluffiness. On the other hand, if it exceeds 70% by mass, the number of fibers constituting the sheath is insufficient, and the core is exposed on the yarn surface. The resulting woven product has poor anti-pilling properties and a stiff hand feel.

The core of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention can be formed solely of bicomponent composite short fibers, or it can be formed of bicomponent composite short fibers and other short fibers. In the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention, the ratio of bicomponent composite short fibers to the total amount of short fibers constituting the core in 100 parts by mass is, for example, 75 parts by mass or more, preferably 75 to 100 parts by mass, and more preferably 80 to 100 parts by mass. By containing bicomponent composite short fibers in the core in such a ratio, the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention can possess sufficient potential crimp properties while imparting superior stretchability and bulkiness to woven products obtained using the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention.

In the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention, when the core contains short fibers other than bicomponent composite short fibers, there are no particular limitations on the type of short fibers. Examples include synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon, vinylon, polyurethane, and polypropylene; plant fibers such as cotton, linen, and bamboo; regenerated fibers such as viscose rayon, solvent-spun cellulose fibers, and lyocell fibers; animal hair fibers such as wool, cashmere, camel hair, angora rabbit hair, mohair, alpaca hair, mink hair, and seal hair; and modal fibers.

In the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention, when the core contains synthetic fibers, regenerated fibers, or plant fibers other than bicomponent composite short fibers as short fibers, the fineness of the individual fibers of these short fibers can be appropriately set according to the type of short fiber. For example, if the core contains synthetic fibers or regenerated fibers other than bicomponent composite short fibers, the fineness of the individual fibers of the synthetic fibers or regenerated fibers is preferably 0.8 dtex to 3.0 dtex, more preferably 1.7 dtex to 2.2 dtex. Furthermore, for example, if the core contains plant fibers other than bicomponent composite short fibers, the fineness of the plant fibers is preferably 2.6 μg/inch to 6.0 μg/inch, more preferably 3.0 μg/inch to 5.0 μg/inch. The fineness of the individual fibers of the synthetic fibers or regenerated fibers is a value determined according to the method described in "8.5.1 Critical Fineness" "a) Method A" of JIS L 1015:2010 "Test Methods for Short Fibers of Chemical Fibers". In addition, the fineness of the aforementioned plant fibers is a value determined according to the type of plant fiber using the standard methods specified by JIS, etc. Specifically, in the case of cotton, it is a value determined according to the method described in JIS L 1019:2006 "Test Methods for Cotton Fibers" "7.4 Fineness" "7.4.1 Method using Micronaire airflow fiber fineness tester".

Furthermore, in the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention, when the core contains short fibers other than bicomponent composite short fibers, the fiber length of these short fibers can be appropriately set according to the type of short fibers, preferably 20mm to 50mm, more preferably 25mm to 50mm. When the short fibers are animal hair fibers, they can be cut and used in a manner that achieves the stated fiber length. Here, the fiber length of the short fiber is determined according to the type of short fiber used using methods specified by JIS and other standards. Specifically, in the case of synthetic or regenerated fibers, the method is as described in JIS L 1015:2010 "Test Methods for Short Fibers of Chemical Fibers" under "8.4.1 Average Fiber Length" and "a) Short Fiber Length Distribution Map Method (Method A)"; in the case of cotton, the method is as described in JIS L 1019:2006 "Test Methods for Cotton Fibers" under "7.2 Fiber Length" and "7.2.1 Method Using a Sorter" and "Method A (Double Sorting Method)"; and in the case of wool, the method is as described in JIS L 1081:2014 "Test Methods for Wool Fibers" under "7.2 Average Fiber Length" and "7.2.1 Method A (Method Using an Electronic Machine)".

In the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention, as a preferred example of the case where the core contains short fibers other than bicomponent composite short fibers, the short fibers other than bicomponent composite short fibers in the core are the same as the short fibers forming the sheath.

[Sheath]

The sheath of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention can be formed by short fibers. Cellulose-based short fibers and/or animal hair fibers are preferred as the short fibers forming the sheath.

Examples of cellulose-based short fibers used in the sheath of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention include plant fibers such as cotton, hemp, and bamboo; regenerated fibers such as viscose rayon, solvent-spun cellulose fibers, and lyocell fibers; and modal fibers. These cellulose-based short fibers can be used alone or in combination of two or more. Natural fibers and regenerated fibers are preferred examples, while cotton and lyocell are more preferred examples.

When cellulose-based short fibers are used in the sheath of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention, the sheath may be formed solely of cellulose-based short fibers, or it may be formed by combining cellulose-based short fibers with other short fibers. When the sheath of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention is formed of cellulose-based short fibers and other short fibers, there are no particular limitations on the type of these other short fibers; examples include synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon, vinylon, polyurethane, and polypropylene; and animal hair fibers, etc.

Furthermore, in this invention, animal hair fiber refers to short fibers derived from animals that are composed primarily of protein. Examples of animal hair fibers used in the sheath of the double-layered textile yarn of this invention include wool, cashmere, camel hair, Angora rabbit hair, mohair, alpaca hair, mink hair, and seal hair. These animal hair fibers can be used individually or in combination of two or more. Wool is a preferred example.

The animal hair fibers used in the sheath of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention are preferably subjected to shrinkage-resistant processing. Animal hair fibers have a high-end feel and excellent sensory aspects such as excellent fit, but they have the disadvantage of significant shrinkage and felting during household washing. In order to improve these problems, shrinkage-resistant processing is preferred. The shrinkage-resistant processing of animal hair fibers can be carried out using known methods, such as: (1) using chlorinating agents such as sodium hypochlorite or sodium dichloroisocyanurate, or oxidizing agents such as persulfate or potassium permanganate to remove the oxide layer of animal hair fibers; (2) after the treatment in (1) above, using polyamide epichlorohydrin resin to coat the oxide layer of animal hair fibers; (3) using synthetic polymers to coat the oxide layer of animal hair fibers; (4) using methods such as modifying the fiber surface by low-temperature plasma treatment or corona discharge treatment to reduce the anisotropy of the coefficient of friction of animal hair fibers, etc. Among these shrinkage-resistant processing methods, considering the balance between operability, cost and shrinkage-resistant effect, the method of (1) is preferred.

When animal hair fibers are used in the sheath of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention, the sheath may be formed solely of animal hair fibers, or it may be formed by combining animal hair fibers with other short fibers. When the sheath of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention is formed of animal hair fibers and other short fibers, there are no particular limitations on the type of these other short fibers; examples include synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon, and cellulose-based short fibers.

When cellulose-based short fibers are used in the sheath of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention, the fineness of the individual fibers of the cellulose-based short fibers can be appropriately set according to their type. For example, if regenerated fibers are used as cellulose-based short fibers, the fineness of the individual fibers of the regenerated fibers is preferably 0.8 dtex to 3.0 dtex, more preferably 1.7 dtex to 2.2 dtex. Furthermore, if plant fibers are used as cellulose-based short fibers, the fineness of the plant fibers is preferably 2.6 μg/inch to 6.0 μg/inch, more preferably 3.0 μg/inch to 5.0 μg/inch. Here, the fineness of the individual fibers of the regenerated fibers is the value determined according to the method described in "8.5.1 Critical Fineness" "a) Method A" of JIS L 1015:2010 "Test Methods for Short Fibers of Chemical Fibers". In addition, the fineness of the aforementioned plant fibers is a value determined according to the type of plant fiber using the standard methods specified by JIS, etc. Specifically, in the case of cotton, it is a value determined according to the method described in JIS L 1019:2006 "Test Methods for Cotton Fibers" "7.4 Fineness" "7.4.1 Method using Micronaire airflow fiber fineness tester".

Furthermore, when using cellulose-based short fibers and/or animal hair fibers in the sheath of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention, the fiber length of the cellulose-based short fibers and/or animal hair fibers can be appropriately set according to their type, for example, preferably 20mm to 50mm, more preferably 25mm to 50mm. In the case of animal hair fibers, they can be cut to the specified fiber length. The values for the cellulose-based short fibers and/or animal hair fibers are determined according to their type using methods specified by JIS and other standards. Specifically, for cotton (cellulose-based short fibers), the method described in JIS L 1019:2006 "Test Methods for Cotton Fibers" under "7.2 Fiber Length" and "7.2.1 Method Using a Sorter" under "Method A (Double Sorting Method)" is used. For regenerated fibers (cellulose-based short fibers), the method described in JIS L 1015:2010 "Test Methods for Chemical Fibers" under "8.4.1 Average Fiber Length" and "a) Short Fiber Length Distribution Map Method (Method A)" is used. For wool (animal hair fibers), the value is determined according to JIS L 1081:2014 "Test Methods for Wool Fibers" under "7.2 Average Fiber Length" and "7.2.1 Method A (Method Using an Electronic Machine)".

When cellulose-based short fibers and/or animal hair fibers are used in the sheath of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention, the ratio of cellulose-based short fibers and/or animal hair fibers to 100 parts by mass of the total amount of short fibers constituting the sheath is preferably 80 to 100 parts by mass, and more preferably 90 to 100 parts by mass. By containing cellulose-based short fibers and/or animal hair fibers in such a ratio in the sheath, woven products obtained using the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention can be endowed with superior anti-pilling and tensile properties, as well as excellent water absorption, bulkiness, and soft hand feel.

When cellulose-based short fibers and/or animal hair fibers are used in the sheath portion of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention, the proportion of cellulose-based short fibers and/or animal hair fibers contained in the double-layer structure textile yarn is preferably 30% to 70% by mass, more preferably 40% to 65% by mass. Here, "the proportion of cellulose-based short fibers and/or animal hair fibers contained in the double-layer structure textile yarn" refers to the ratio of the total mass of cellulose-based short fibers and/or animal hair fibers contained in the core and sheath portions to the total mass of the double-layer structure textile yarn, when the core portion contains cellulose-based short fibers and/or animal hair fibers. By including cellulose-based short fibers and/or animal hair fibers in such a proportion, woven products obtained using the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention can be endowed with superior anti-pilling and tensile properties, as well as excellent water absorption, bulkiness, and a soft hand feel.

[Core-sheath structure of double-layered textile yarn]

The double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention has a double-layer structure in a cross section perpendicular to the yarn length direction, wherein the core is covered by the sheath.

In the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention, the ratio of the total mass of short fibers forming the core to the total mass of short fibers forming the sheath is preferably 30-70:70-30, more preferably 35-65:65-35, and even more preferably 40:66-50:50.

[Monofilament tensile strength, twist coefficient K, and dimensional change rate in hot water of double-layer structured textile yarns]

The double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention satisfies all the following characteristic values (1) to (3).

(1) The tensile strength of a single filament is above 1.0 cN/dtex;

(2) The twist coefficient K is 120-180;

(3) The size change rate of hot water is above 4.0%.

The monofilament tensile strength of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention should be 1.0 cN/dtex or higher, preferably 1.2 cN/dtex to 3.0 cN/dtex. If the monofilament tensile strength is less than 1.0 cN/dtex, the breakage caused by high-speed spinning, weaving, and wear during the knitting process will be aggravated, resulting in a decrease in the quality of the woven product. In addition, if the monofilament tensile strength of the double-layer structure textile yarn is in the range of 1.0 cN/dtex to 3.0 cN/dtex, the woven product is more prone to pilling due to friction, and is more likely to have better anti-pilling properties. The monofilament tensile strength of the double-layer structure textile yarn is measured according to the method described in JIS L 1095:2010 "General Test Methods for Textile Yarns" "9.5 Monofilament Tensile Strength and Elongation" "9.5.1 JIS Method" "a) Standard Time", under the conditions of a clamp interval of 50 cm and a stretching speed of 30 cm.

To achieve the above-mentioned range for the tensile strength of a monofilament, one can adjust, for example, the amount of bicomponent composite short fibers in the core of the double-layer structured textile yarn, the type and amount of short fibers other than the bicomponent composite short fibers in the core, the type and amount of short fibers in the sheath, and the stretch ratio of the roving in the manufacturing process.

The twist coefficient K of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention is preferably 120 to 180, and more preferably 130 to 150 from the viewpoint of further improving tensile strength, anti-pilling properties, and yarn strength. If the twist coefficient K is less than 120, the crimping of the bicomponent composite short fibers in the core will not be hindered. Therefore, although the resulting woven fabric has good tensile strength, bulkiness, and soft hand feel, the yarn strength is lower and the bundledness of the short fibers is reduced. As a result, more yarn skipping or fluffing occurs, leading to a deterioration in anti-pilling properties. On the other hand, if the twist coefficient K exceeds 180, the crimping of the bicomponent composite short fibers in the core will be hindered, thereby reducing the tensile strength and bulkiness of the resulting woven fabric. Here, the twist coefficient K of the double-layer structure textile yarn is a value calculated according to the following formula (i). In addition, the twist number T is the value determined according to the method described in "9.15 twist number" "9.15.1 using JIS method" "a) Method A" of JIS L 1095:2010 "General textile yarn test method".

[Mathematical Expression 1]

T = Number of twists / m

Ne = British cotton yarn count

To keep the twist coefficient K within the above range, for example, the stretch ratio of the roving and the conditions of the twisting operation can be adjusted during the manufacturing process.

Furthermore, the hot water dimensional change rate of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention should be 4.0% or more, preferably 4.5% to 8.0%, and more preferably 4.6% to 6.0%. If the hot water dimensional change rate is less than 4%, the resulting woven fabric will have poor tensile strength. Here, the hot water dimensional change rate of the double-layer structure textile yarn is the value determined according to the method described in "Method A" of "9.24 Hot Water Dimensional Change Rate" of JIS L 1095:2010 "General Test Methods for Textile Yarns".

To keep the dimensional change rate of hot water within the above range, one can adjust the structure and amount of the bicomponent composite short fibers in the core of the double-layered textile yarn, or the stretch ratio of the roving in the manufacturing process.

[Count of double-layer structure textile yarn]

The yarn count of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention, measured in English cotton yarn count, is preferably 10 to 80, more preferably 20 to 60, and even more preferably 30 to 60. Here, the English cotton yarn count of the double-layer structure textile yarn is a value determined according to the method described in "9.4.2 Apparent tex and yarn count" of JIS L1095:2010 "General Test Methods for Textile Yarns".

[Morphology of double-layer structure textile yarns]

The double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention can be used in the form of a single filament, or it can be used as a double yarn obtained by twisting two double-layer structure textile yarns of the present invention together, or as a double yarn obtained by twisting the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention together with other textile yarns or synthetic fiber filaments.

When the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention is made into a double yarn, considering the fluffiness and stretchability of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention, it is preferable to set the twist of the double yarn to 30% to 100% of the twist of the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention, preferably 40% to 70%.

[Manufacturing Method of Double-Layer Structure Textile Yarn]

Regarding the method for manufacturing the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention, there are no particular limitations as long as it is limited to obtaining a double-layer structure textile yarn having the aforementioned structure. Hereinafter, a preferred example of the method for manufacturing the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention will be described.

First, short fibers that form the core and sheath are fed into a blending and carding machine and a carding machine, respectively, to obtain slivers for core formation and sheath formation. Then, the slivers for core formation are added to the drawing process to obtain yarn S1, and the slivers for sheath formation are added to the drawing process to obtain yarn S2.

Next, using the roving machine with the structure shown in Figure 2 (simplified cross-sectional view) and Figure 3 (simplified cross-sectional view), a core yarn S1 and a sheath yarn S2 are supplied. The travel angle θ of the yarn S1 towards the spindle relative to the flow direction in Figure 2 is set to 60° to obtain twisted roving.

The resulting roving is then fed to the guide of the spinning machine, passing sequentially through the rear roller, apron, and front roller. After being stretched 20 to 50 times between these rollers, it undergoes twisting and winding operations utilizing the rotation of the spindle. This produces a double-layered woven yarn with the desired monofilament tensile strength, twist coefficient K, and hot water dimensional change rate. In the finishing process, the resulting yarn is packaged in a large package to remove defects.

2. Woven items

The woven fabric (woven material) of the present invention is characterized by containing the above-mentioned double-layer structure textile yarn (the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention) as the constituent yarn. The woven fabric of the present invention, by using the above-mentioned double-layer structure textile yarn for weaving, can possess excellent anti-pilling and tensile properties. The woven fabric of the present invention will now be described in detail.

[Fabric]

In the fabric of the present invention, at least one of the warp and weft yarns may use the double-layer structure textile yarn. There is no particular limitation on the amount of the double-layer structure textile yarn used in the fabric of the present invention, but it is preferably 30% by mass or more, more preferably 35% by mass to 100% by mass, and even more preferably 50% by mass to 100% by mass. By ensuring that the amount of the double-layer structure textile yarn used in the fabric meets the above range, it is possible to achieve excellent anti-pilling and tensile properties, providing a stretchy and comfortable wearing experience, while also exhibiting good elasticity during repeated wear, effectively preventing adverse effects such as knee chafing in trousers.

Regarding the weaving density of the fabric of the present invention, it can be appropriately set according to the intended use of the fabric, etc. For example, the warp density can be 50 to 200 threads/2.54 cm and the weft density can be 50 to 100 threads/2.54 cm, preferably the warp density can be 80 to 150 threads/2.54 cm and the weft density can be 50 to 80 threads.

/2.54cm. Here, the weave density of the fabric is the value determined according to the method described in "8.6.1 Fabric density (JIS method)" of JIS L 1096:2010 "Test methods for fabrics and woven fabrics".

In the fabric of the present invention, an indicator of excellent tensile strength is the weft elongation (after 1 minute of load application) of 10% to 20%. Here, the weft elongation (after 1 minute of load application) is obtained by measuring the elongation after applying a load of 14.7 N for 1 minute by measuring the elongation at 200 mm intervals marked with 200 mm intervals.

Furthermore, in the fabric of the present invention, an indicator of excellent tensile strength is the weft elongation (after 1 hour of load application) of 12% to 25%. Here, the weft elongation (after 1 hour of load application) is obtained by measuring the elongation after applying a load of 14.7 N for 1 hour by measuring the elongation at 200 mm intervals marked with 200 mm marks.

Furthermore, in order to ensure that the weft elongation (after 1 minute of load application) and (after 1 hour of load application) are within the aforementioned range, while using the aforementioned double-layer structure textile yarn as the constituent yarn of the fabric of the present invention, the fabric coverage factor (CF) can be set to, for example, 20 to 33, preferably 30 to 33. Here, the fabric coverage factor (CF) is a value calculated according to the following formula (ii).

[Mathematical Expression 2]

X: Number of warp threads per 2.54 cm of fabric

Y: Number of weft yarns per 2.54 cm of fabric

D1: Warp yarn fineness (English cotton yarn count)

D2: Weft yarn fineness (English cotton yarn count)

There are no particular limitations on the weaving structure of the fabrics of the present invention. Examples include plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, jacquard weave (lappet, dobby jacquard, jacquard, etc.), double-layer fabrics, etc.

The fabric of the present invention has excellent anti-pilling and tensile properties, as well as excellent fluffiness and a soft hand feel, making it a preferred raw material for both outer and inner wear as clothing.

[Knitted fabrics]

In the woven fabric of the present invention, the above-described double-layer structure textile yarn is used as at least one of the constituent yarns. There is no particular limitation on the amount of the above-described double-layer structure textile yarn used in the woven fabric of the present invention, but it is preferably 30% by mass or more, more preferably 50% by mass to 100% by mass, and even more preferably 80% by mass to 100% by mass.

Regarding the weave density in the woven fabric of the present invention, it can be appropriately set according to the intended use of the woven fabric. For example, a row density of 30-70 threads/2.54cm and a warp density of 20-50 threads/2.54cm can be used, preferably a row density of 32-70 threads/2.54cm and a warp density of 24-45 threads/2.54cm. The weave density of the woven fabric is determined according to the method described in "8.6.2 Density of Woven Fabrics" of JIS L 1096:2010 "Test Methods for Fabrics and Woven Fabrics".

The unit area weight of the woven fabric of the present invention can be appropriately set according to the purpose of the woven fabric, for example, 100g/ ^m2 to 200g/ ^m2 , preferably 110g/ ^m2 to 190g/ ^m2 .

Furthermore, in the woven fabric of the present invention, an example of excellent tensile strength is a transverse elongation of 28% to 70%. Here, the transverse elongation of the woven fabric is obtained by measuring the elongation after applying a load of 14.7 N for 1 minute with 200 mm intervals marked on the fabric according to the method described in JIS L 1096:2010 "Test Methods for Fabrics and Woven Fabrics", specifically in "8.16.1 Elongation" and "b) Method B (Constant Load Method for Fabrics)".

As the constituent yarns of the woven fabric of the present invention, when the double-layer structure textile yarn is mixed with other yarns, in order to have excellent anti-pilling properties, it is preferable to arrange the double-layer structure textile yarn in such a way that the double-layer structure textile yarn appears on the surface of the fabric. By making such a structure, even without special processing, the anti-pilling property can be achieved at level 3 or higher. The anti-pilling property level is a value obtained according to the method described in "8.1 JIS Method" "8.1.1A Method (Method Using ICI Type Testing Machine)" of JIS L 1076:2012 "Test Method for Pilling of Fabrics and Woven Fabrics".

Specifically, examples of the knitting structures for the fabrics of this invention include weft knitting such as plain knit, double rib, circular rib, waffle, back knit, tucked mesh, raised knit, mesh, polka dot, and double-sided knit. Alternatively, the knitting structures for the fabrics of this invention can also be warp knitting such as those obtained using a seamless computerized flat knitting machine or warp knitting such as troicott half.

The woven fabric of the present invention has excellent anti-pilling and tensile properties, as well as excellent fluffiness and a soft hand feel, making it a preferred raw material for both outer and inner wear as clothing.

Example

The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to embodiments. However, the present invention is not limited to these embodiments.

1. Determination and Test Methods

The methods for determining and testing the various characteristic values in the examples are as follows.

[Fiber length and single fiber fineness of bicomponent composite staple fibers, polyester fibers, vinylon fibers, and lyocell fibers]

The fiber length of the bicomponent composite short fiber was determined according to the method described in "8.4.1 Average Fiber Length" of JIS L 1015:2010 "Test Methods for Short Fibers of Chemical Fibers," specifically "a) Short Fiber Length Distribution Method (Method A)." Additionally, the single fiber fineness of the bicomponent composite short fiber was determined according to the method described in "8.5.1 Calibratory Fineness" of JIS L 1015:2010 "Test Methods for Short Fibers of Chemical Fibers," specifically "a) Method A."

[Cotton fiber length and single fiber fineness]

The fiber length of cotton was determined according to the method described in JIS L 1019:2006 "Test Methods for Cotton Fibers" under "7.2 Fiber Length" and "7.2.1 Method Using a Sorter" under "Method A (Double Sorting Method)". The fineness of cotton single fibers was determined according to the method described in JIS L 1019:2006 "Test Methods for Cotton Fibers" under "7.4 Fineness" and "7.4.1 Method Using a Micronaire Airflow Fiber Fineness Tester".

[Wool fiber length]

The cut length (fiber length) of wool fibers was determined according to the method described in "7.2.1A (method using electronic equipment)" of "7.2 average fiber length" in JIS L 1081:2014 "Test methods for wool fibers".

[Tensile strength of bicomponent composite staple fiber, polyester fiber and vinylon fiber]

According to the method described in "8.7 Tensile Strength and Elongation" of JIS L 1015:2010 "Test Methods for Short Fibers of Chemical Fibers", the tensile strength of bicomponent composite short fibers was determined with a clamp interval of 20 mm and a tensile speed of 20 mm/min.

[Tensile strength of monofilaments in textile yarns]

According to the method described in "9.5.1 JIS Method" "a) Standard Time" of "9.5 Tensile Strength and Elongation of Monofilament" of JIS L 1095:2010 "General Test Methods for Textile Yarns", the tensile strength of monofilaments of textile yarns was determined with a clamp interval of 50 cm and a tensile speed of 30 cm.

[Twist coefficient K]

The twist coefficient K is calculated according to the following formula (i).

T = Number of twists / m

Ne = British cotton yarn count

The twist number T is determined according to the method described in "9.15 Twist Number" of JIS L 1095:2010 "General Test Methods for Textile Yarns" under "9.15 Twist Number" under "9.15.1 JIS Method" under "a) A Method".

[British cotton yarn count]

The English cotton yarn count of textile yarns was determined according to the method described in "9.4.2 Apparent tex and count" of JIS L 1095:2010 "General Test Methods for Textile Yarns".

[Hot water dimensional change rate]

The dimensional change rate of textile yarn in hot water was determined according to the method described in "Method A" of "9.24 Dimensional Change Rate in Hot Water" in JIS L 1095:2010 "General Test Methods for Textile Yarns".

[Elongation of fabrics and knitted fabrics]

According to the method described in JIS L 1096:2010 "Test Methods for Fabrics and Woven Fabrics", "8.16.1 Elongation", "b) Method B (Constant Load Method for Fabrics)", the weft elongation of the fabric and the transverse elongation of the woven fabric were determined by marking 200 mm intervals and applying a load of 14.7 N. The elongation value after applying the load and holding it for 1 minute was set as "Elongation 1", and the elongation value after applying the load and holding it for 1 hour was set as "Elongation 2".

[Anti-pilling properties]

The pilling resistance (grade) of fabrics and woven fabrics is evaluated according to the method described in "8.1 JIS Method" and "8.1.1A Method (using an ICI type testing machine)" of JIS L 1076:2012 "Test Method for Pilling of Fabrics and Woven Fabrics". The operating time is 10 hours for fabrics and 5 hours for woven fabrics.

2. Short fibers used as raw materials

In the manufacture of the textile yarns in the examples and comparative examples, the following short fibers were used.

[Bicomponent composite short fiber]

F1: Short fibers with a 50/50 mass ratio of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) to polypropylene terephthalate (PTT), with a cross-section perpendicular to the yarn length direction in an oval shape (a snowman shape with two grooves) as shown in Figure 1, a single fiber fineness of 2.0 dtex, a fiber length of 38 mm, a tensile strength of 3.4 cN/dtex, and an aspect ratio (A:B) of 1.5:1.

F2: Same short fiber as F1, with a fiber length of 51mm.

〔cotton〕

M1: Material with a fineness of 4.9 μm/inch and a fiber length of 33 mm (Australian cotton).

Lyocell fiber

R1: "Lyocell KF" manufactured by Uniqlo Trading Co., Ltd. (1.3 dtex single fiber fineness, 38 mm fiber length)

[Animal hair fiber]

U1: Wool fibers (Merino wool, cut into 38mm pieces) obtained by anti-shrinkage treatment with sodium hypochlorite and sodium dichloroisocyanurate.

[Polyester fiber]

P1: Short fibers composed of polyethylene terephthalate, with a fiber length of 38 mm, a single fiber fineness of 1.45 dtex, and a tensile strength of 5.9 cN/dtex.

[Vinylon fiber]

V1: Kuraray Corporation's water-soluble vinylon "K-II type WN4" has a fiber length of 38mm, a single fiber fineness of 1.7dtex, and a tensile strength of 7.0cN/dtex.

3. Manufacturing and property evaluation of textile yarns

[Example 1]

Core yarn: 81.6% by mass of bicomponent composite short fiber F1 and 18.4% by mass of cotton M1 are mixed and fed into a blending and carding machine to obtain a raw sliver, which is then added to the blending process to obtain yarn S1.

Sheath yarn: 100% by mass cotton M1 is used, and the yarn S2 is obtained through the blending, carding and drawing processes.

Using the roving machine with the structure shown in Figure 2 (simplified cross-sectional view) and Figure 3 (simplified cross-sectional view), a core yarn S1 and a sheath yarn S2 are supplied, so that the mass ratio of the stretched yarns is S1:S2 = 49:51. The travel angle θ of the core yarn S1 towards the spindle relative to the draft direction in Figure 2 is set to 60°, resulting in roving with a mass of 275gr/30yd (1gr = 0.65g, 1yd = 0.9144m) and a twist of 0.961 times/2.54cm.

The roving is fed into the guide of a spinning machine, passing sequentially through the rear roller, apron, and front roller. After being stretched 35.5 times, it undergoes twisting and winding operations utilizing the rotation of the spindle. During twisting and winding, the yarn is fed to a traction thread wound around a looped guide and onto a bobbin. Friction causes the puller to rotate slower than the bobbin, thus imparting twist. This produces a 30-count (English cotton yarn count) double-layered yarn with a twist coefficient K = 150.

[Example 2]

Using the same roving as in Example 1, the stretch ratio in the spinning machine was changed to 47.3 times. Otherwise, spinning was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 1 to obtain a double-layer woven yarn with a count of 40 (English cotton yarn count) and a twist coefficient K = 150.

[Example 3]

In the core yarn, Lyocell fiber R1 is used instead of cotton M1, and otherwise the same procedure is followed as in Example 1 to obtain core yarn S1.

As a sheath yarn, 100% by weight of Lyocell fiber R1 is used, and the yarn S2 is obtained through blending, carding and drawing processes.

Using these yarns S1 and S2, except under the same conditions as in Example 2, a double-layered woven yarn with a count of 40 (English cotton yarn count) and a twist coefficient K = 150 was obtained.

[Example 4]

In the core yarn, animal hair fiber U1 is used instead of cotton M1. Otherwise, the process is the same as in Example 1 to obtain core yarn S1.

As a yarn for the sheath, 100% by weight of animal hair fiber U1 is used, and the yarn S2 is obtained through a blending, carding and drawing process.

Using these yarns S1 and S2, except for spinning under the same conditions as in Example 1, a double-layered woven yarn with a count of 30 (English cotton yarn count) and a twist coefficient K = 150 is obtained.

[Example 5]

Using the same roving as in Example 4, the stretch ratio in the spinning machine was changed to 47.3 times. Otherwise, spinning was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 1 to obtain a double-layered woven yarn with a count of 40 (English cotton yarn count) and a twist coefficient K = 150.

[Example 6]

The same roving as in Example 1 is fed into the guide of a spinning machine, and after being stretched 47.3 times by the rear roller, apron, and front roller in sequence, it undergoes twisting and winding operations using the rotation of the spindle. During the twisting and winding operations, twisting is achieved by adjusting the speed supplied to the spindle and the number of spindle rotations. This yields a double-layered woven yarn with a count of 40 (English cotton yarn count) and a twist coefficient K = 130.

[Example 7]

The same roving as in Example 1 is fed into the guide of a spinning machine, and after being stretched 47.3 times by the rear roller, apron, and front roller in sequence, it undergoes twisting and winding operations using the rotation of the spindle. During the twisting and winding operations, twisting is achieved by adjusting the speed supplied to the spindle and the number of spindle rotations. This yields a double-layered woven yarn with a count of 40 (English cotton yarn count) and a twist coefficient K = 140.

[Example 8]

Core yarn: 80% by mass of bicomponent composite short fiber F1 and 20% by mass of vinylon fiber V1 are mixed, otherwise the same as in Example 1, to obtain yarn S1.

Sheath yarn: 100% by weight Lyocell fiber R1 is used to obtain yarn S2 through blending, carding and drawing processes.

Using the roving machine with the structure shown in Figure 2 (simplified cross-sectional view) and Figure 3 (simplified cross-sectional view), a core yarn S1 and a sheath yarn S2 are supplied, so that the mass ratio of each yarn after stretching is S1:S2 = 40:60. Otherwise, the roving is obtained in the same way as in Example 1.

The roving is fed into the guide of a spinning machine, where it is stretched 59.1 times sequentially by the rear roller, apron, and front roller. Then, it undergoes twisting and winding operations using the rotation of the spindle. During twisting and winding, the twisting is achieved by adjusting the speed supplied to the spindle and the number of spindle rotations. This produces a 50-count (English cotton yarn count) double-layered yarn with a twist coefficient K = 150.

[Example 9]

Core yarn: 100% by mass of bicomponent composite short fiber F1 was used, otherwise the same as in Example 1 was used to obtain yarn S1.

Sheath yarn: 100% by weight Lyocell fiber R1 is used to obtain yarn S2 through blending, carding and drawing processes.

Using the roving machine with the structure shown in Figure 2 (simplified cross-sectional view) and Figure 3 (simplified cross-sectional view), a core yarn S1 and a sheath yarn S2 are supplied, so that the mass ratio of each yarn after stretching is S1:S2 = 40:60. Otherwise, the roving is obtained in the same way as in Example 1.

The roving is fed into the guide of a spinning machine, where it is stretched 71.0 times by passing through the rear roller, apron, and front roller in sequence. Then, it undergoes twisting and winding operations using the rotation of the spindle. During twisting and winding, the overall speed supplied to the spindle and the number of spindle rotations are adjusted. This produces a double-layered yarn with a count of 60 (English cotton yarn count) and a twist coefficient K = 150.

[Comparative Example 1]

Core yarn: 100% by weight of polyester fiber P1 is used and fed into a blending and carding machine to obtain a sliver, which is then added to the drawing process to obtain yarn S1.

By changing the core yarn to the aforementioned yarn, and otherwise spinning under the same conditions as in Example 1, a double-layered textile yarn with a count of 30 (English cotton yarn count) and a twist coefficient K = 150 was obtained.

[Comparative Example 2]

Using the same roving as Comparative Example 1, and changing the draw ratio in the spinning machine to 47.3 times, the spinning was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 1, resulting in a count of 40.

Double-layered textile yarn with a twist coefficient K = 150 (English cotton yarn count).

[Comparative Example 3]

The bicomponent composite short fiber F1 and cotton M1 are blended at a mass ratio of 40/60 to obtain roving.

The roving is fed into the guide of the spinning machine, passing sequentially through the rear roller, apron, and front roller, undergoing a 35.5-fold stretch before being twisted and wound using the rotation of the spindle. Twisting is achieved by adjusting the speed supplied to the spindle and the number of spindle rotations during the twisting and winding process. This yields a blended yarn with a count of 30 (English cotton yarn count) and a twist coefficient K = 150.

[Comparative Example 4]

The same roving as in Example 1 is fed into the guide of a spinning machine, passing sequentially through the rear roller, apron, and front roller. After being stretched 47.3 times, it undergoes twisting and winding operations using the rotation of the spindle. Twisting is achieved by adjusting the speed supplied to the spindle and the number of spindle rotations during the twisting and winding operations. This yields a double-layered woven yarn with a count of 40 (English cotton yarn count) and a twist coefficient K = 100.

[Comparative Example 5]

The same roving as in Example 1 is fed into the guide of a spinning machine, passing sequentially through the rear roller, apron, and front roller. After being stretched 47.3 times, it undergoes twisting and winding operations using the rotation of the spindle. Twisting is achieved by adjusting the speed supplied to the spindle and the number of spindle rotations during the twisting and winding operations. This yields a double-layered yarn with a count of 40 (English cotton yarn count) and a twist coefficient K = 190.

The characteristic values of the textile yarns obtained in Examples 1-9 and Comparative Examples 1-5 are shown in Table 1.

[Table 1]

4. Fabric manufacturing and evaluation

[Example 11]

Weft yarn: The double-layer structure textile yarn of Example 1 is obtained by combining two yarns and applying 16 twists/2.54cm in the S direction to obtain a textile yarn (30/2 count double yarn).

Warp yarn: Double-layered textile yarn of Comparative Example 2.

Using the aforementioned textile yarns for both warp and weft, an air-jet loom was used to obtain a plain weave (Oxford twill) fabric with a warp density of 92 ends/2.54 cm, a weft density of 50 ends/2.54 cm, and a cover factor of 29.6. Subsequently, after singeing, desizing, and scouring using known methods, mercerizing was performed without tension in the weft direction. Then, dyeing and finishing were carried out under the following conditions to obtain an Oxford fabric with a warp density of 112 ends/2.54 cm, a weft density of 52 ends/2.54 cm, and a cover factor of 31.1.

(Dyeing process)

As fluorescent whitening agents, 5 g/l of UbiTEX EBF (manufactured by CIBA GEIGY Co., Ltd., Japan) and 5 g/l of Illuminar URL (manufactured by Showa Chemical Co., Ltd.) were used to impregnate the fabric. The fabric was then extruded using a fabric rolling mill with an adhesion rate of 0.35% for each agent, and dried using a tenter frame at 170°C for 1 minute.

(finishing)

As a softening agent, 20 g/L of SUNSOFTER GA Conc NEW (manufactured by Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd.) was used, and the agent was applied by padding with a fabric rolling mill to achieve an adhesion rate of 1.4%. The fabric was then dried using a tenter frame at 150°C for 1 minute.

[Example 12]

The weft yarn used was the double-layer structure textile yarn of Example 2, and the warp yarn used was the double-layer structure textile yarn of Comparative Example 2. Using an air-jet loom, a plain-woven fabric with a warp density of 112 ends/2.54 cm, a weft density of 70 ends/2.54 cm, and a cover factor of 28.8 was obtained. Then, after singeing, desizing, and scouring using known methods, mercerizing was performed without tension in the weft direction. Finally, dyeing and softener finishing were carried out under the following conditions to obtain a warp density of 130 ends.

Plain weave fabric with a weft density of 70 threads per 2.54cm and a cover factor of 31.6.

<Dyeing Processing>

Add 20 g/L sodium sulfate and 30 g/L soda ash to the reactive dye "Remazol Brilliant Blue R 3% (owf)," immerse the desized fabric in it, and dye it at 60℃ for 60 minutes.

<Fine Finishing>

After soaping treatment with 1 g/L of SANDPAN DTC (manufactured by SANDOZ Co., Ltd.) at 90°C for 10 minutes, 20 g/L of SUNSOFTER GA Conc NEW (softener manufactured by Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd.) was applied using a fabric rolling mill with an adhesion rate of 1.4%, and then dried using a tenter frame at 150°C for 1 minute.

[Example 13]

Warp yarn: The double-layer structure textile yarn of Example 5 is obtained by combining two yarns and applying 19 twists/2.54cm in the S direction to obtain a textile yarn (40/2 count double yarn).

Weft yarn: The double-layer structure textile yarn of Example 4 is obtained by combining two yarns and applying 16 twists/2.54cm in the S direction to obtain a textile yarn (30/2 count double yarn).

Using the aforementioned textile yarns for both warp and weft, an air-jet loom is used to obtain a 3/1 right-hand twill fabric with a warp density of 100 ends/2.54cm, a weft density of 55 ends/2.54cm, and a cover factor of 27.4. Then, using known methods, singeing, enzymatic desizing, and scouring are performed, followed by dyeing and softener finishing under the following conditions to obtain a 3/1 right-hand twill fabric with a warp density of 120 ends/2.54cm, a weft density of 55 ends/2.54cm, and a cover factor of 30.8.

<Dyeing Processing>

Add 20 g/L sodium sulfate and 30 g/L soda ash to the reactive dye "Remazol, Brilliant Blue R 3% (owf)", immerse the desized fabric in it, and dye it at 60℃ for 60 minutes.

<Fine Finishing>

After soaping treatment with 1 g/L Monogen 170TN (manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.) at 90°C for 10 minutes, 20 g/L SUNSOFTER GA Conc NEW (softener manufactured by Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd.) was used to achieve an adhesion rate of 1.4% by using a fabric rolling mill, and then dried using a tenter frame at 150°C for 1 minute.

[Example 14]

The weft yarn uses the double-layer structure textile yarn of Example 6. Otherwise, it is woven, dyed and finished in the same way as in Example 12 to obtain a plain weave fabric with a warp density of 130 ends/2.54cm, a weft density of 70 ends/2.54cm and a cover factor of 31.6.

[Example 15]

The weft yarn uses the double-layer structure textile yarn of Example 7. Otherwise, it is woven, dyed and finished in the same manner as in Example 12 to obtain a plain weave fabric with a warp density of 130 ends/2.54cm, a weft density of 70 ends/2.54cm and a cover factor of 31.6.

[Comparative Example 11]

The weft yarn was obtained by combining two yarns of the double-layer structure textile yarn of Comparative Example 1 and applying 16 twists/2.54cm in the S direction to obtain a textile yarn (30/2 count double yarn). Otherwise, it was woven, dyed and finished in the same way as in Example 11 to obtain an Oxford fabric with a warp density of 112 ends/2.54cm, a weft density of 52 ends/2.54cm and a cover factor of 31.1.

[Comparative Example 12]

Both the warp and weft yarns used were the double-layer structure textile yarns of Comparative Example 2. Except for this, the weaving, dyeing and finishing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 12 to obtain a plain weave fabric with a warp density of 130 ends/2.54cm, a weft density of 70 ends/2.54cm and a cover factor of 31.6.

[Comparative Example 13]

The weft yarn used was the blended textile yarn of Comparative Example 3. Otherwise, the weaving, dyeing and finishing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 12 to obtain a plain weave fabric with a warp density of 130 ends/2.54 cm, a weft density of 70 ends/2.54 cm and a cover factor of 31.6.

[Comparative Example 14]

The weft yarn used was a 36-count (English cotton yarn count) long-short composite textile yarn as described in Example 1 of Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2008-248402. Otherwise, the weaving, dyeing and finishing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 12, resulting in a plain weave fabric with a warp density of 130 ends/2.54cm, a weft density of 70 ends/2.54cm and a cover factor of 32.2.

[Comparative Example 15]

The weft yarn used was the double-layer structure textile yarn of Comparative Example 4. Otherwise, the weaving, dyeing and finishing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 12 to obtain a plain weave fabric with a warp density of 130 ends/2.54cm, a weft density of 70 ends/2.54cm and a cover factor of 31.6.

[Comparative Example 16]

The weft yarn used was the double-layer structure textile yarn of Comparative Example 5. Otherwise, the weaving, dyeing and finishing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 12, and a plain weave fabric with a warp density of 130 ends/2.54 cm, a weft density of 70 ends/2.54 cm and a cover factor of 31.6 was obtained.

The characteristic values, physical properties, and other results of the fabrics obtained in Examples 11-15 and Comparative Examples 11-16 are shown in Tables 2 and 3.

[Table 2]

[Table 3]

As shown in Table 2, the fabrics obtained in Examples 11-15 using the double-layer structure yarn of the present invention have weft elongation rates 1 and 2 of 10% or more, resulting in good tensile properties. Furthermore, they exhibit excellent anti-pilling properties, feel good to the skin when touched with cotton or wool, and have few major textile defects.

On the one hand, as shown in Table 3, the core of the double-layer structure yarn used in the fabrics obtained in Comparative Examples 11 and 12 is ordinary polyester fiber with a circular cross-section. Therefore, the weft elongation rates 1 and 2 are both less than 10%, resulting in poor tensile strength. In Comparative Example 13, the weft yarn uses a blended yarn made only of bicomponent composite short fibers and cotton. Therefore, bicomponent composite short fibers are present on the fabric surface, forming a core. The detached cotton easily entangles, resulting in poor pilling resistance. In Comparative Example 14, the weft yarn uses a long-short composite yarn, resulting in the weft elongation rates 1 and 2 being both less than 10%, also indicating poor tensile strength. Furthermore, there are many major defects caused by spinning.

The fabric obtained in Comparative Example 15 uses the textile yarn of Comparative Example 4 for the weft yarn, resulting in insufficient cohesion of the yarn itself, increased yarn fuzz, and poor anti-pilling properties.

The fabric obtained in Comparative Example 16 used the textile yarn of Comparative Example 5 for the weft yarn. Therefore, the twisting hindered crimping, and both the weft elongation rates 1 and 2 were less than 10%. A decrease in stretchability was observed, and the fabric hand feel also became stiffer.

5. Manufacturing and evaluation of woven fabrics

[Example 21]

The double-layer structure textile yarn of Example 2 was combined with two yarns and twisted 19 times/2.54cm in the S direction to obtain a textile yarn (40/2 count double yarn).

Using the aforementioned double yarns, a plain knit fabric was obtained using a 30-inch, 22-gauge knitting machine. The fabric was then refined and bleached under known conditions, followed by dyeing and finishing under the following conditions, resulting in a fabric with an area weight of 160 g/ ^m² and a weft density of 37 yarns per row.

A plain knit fabric with 31 rows of 2.54cm long.

<Dyeing Processing>

Add 20 g/L sodium sulfate and 30 g/L soda ash to the reactive dye "Remazol Brilliant Blue R 3% (owf)," immerse the desized woven fabric in it, and dye it at 60℃ for 60 minutes.

<Fine Finishing>

After dyeing, the fabric is soaped at 1 g/L with Lipotol RK-5 (manufactured by Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd.) at 90°C for 10 minutes. Then, it is rolled in Chercut CF-2 (manufactured by SENKA Co., Ltd.) at 20 g/L and NK-1 at 30 g/L with an adhesion rate of 3% using a fabric rolling mill. Finally, it is dried at 150°C for 2 minutes using a tenter frame.

[Example 22]

The double-layer structure textile yarn of Example 3 was combined with two yarns and twisted 19 times/2.54cm in the S direction to obtain a textile yarn (40/2 count double yarn).

Using the aforementioned double yarn, except as in Example 21, weaving, dyeing, and finishing processes were carried out to obtain a plain knit fabric with a unit area weight of 160 g/ ^m² , a row of 37 threads/2.54 cm, and a warp of 31 threads/2.54 cm.

[Example 23]

Using the same double yarn as in Example 21, a tucked mesh fabric was obtained using a 26-inch, 24-gauge knitting machine. The fabric was refined and bleached under known conditions, and then dyed and finished under the following conditions to obtain a tucked mesh fabric with a basis weight of 190 g/ ^m² , 44 yarns/2.54 cm in the rows and 26 yarns/2.54 cm in the warp.

<Dyeing Processing>

Add 20 g/L sodium sulfate and 30 g/L soda ash to the reactive dye "Remazol Brilliant Blue R 3% (owf)," immerse the desized fabric in it, and dye it at 60℃ for 60 minutes.

<Fine Finishing>

After dyeing, the fabric was soaped at 1 g/L with Lipotol RK-5 (manufactured by Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd.) at 90°C for 10 minutes. Then, it was rolled in Chercut CF-2 (manufactured by SENKA Co., Ltd.) at 20 g/L and NK-1 at 30 g/L, with the adhesion rates of the agents being 2% and 3%, respectively, using a fabric rolling mill. Finally, it was dried using a tenter frame at 150°C for 2 minutes.

[Example 24]

Using the double-layer structure textile yarn of Example 8, a circular rib knitted fabric was obtained by knitting on a Fukuhara Seiki circular knitting machine 19”19G.

The obtained woven fabric was dyed and finished in the same manner as in Example 21 to obtain a circular rib woven fabric with a unit area weight of 124 g/ ^m2 , a row of 52 threads/2.54 cm, and a warp of 40 threads/2.54 cm.

[Example 25]

Using the double-layer structure textile yarn of Example 9, a Fukuhara Seiki circular knitting machine 17” 24G was used. Except for this, the same process as in Example 24 was carried out, including knitting, dyeing and finishing, to obtain a circular rib knitted fabric with a unit area weight of 122g/ ^m2 , a row of 65 threads/2.54cm and a warp of 42 threads/2.54cm.

[Comparative Example 21]

The double-layer structure textile yarn of Comparative Example 2 was combined with two yarns and twisted 19 times/2.54cm in the S direction to obtain a textile yarn (40/2 count double yarn).

Using the aforementioned double yarn, except as in Example 21, weaving, dyeing, and finishing were carried out to obtain a plain knit fabric with a unit area weight of 160 g/ ^m² , a row of 37 threads/2.54 cm, and a warp of 31 threads/2.54 cm.

[Comparative Example 22]

The double-layer structure textile yarn of Comparative Example 2 was combined with two yarns and twisted 19 times/2.54cm in the S direction to obtain a textile yarn (40/2 count double yarn).

Using the aforementioned double yarn, except as in Example 23, weaving, dyeing, and finishing were carried out to obtain a tucked mesh fabric with a unit area weight of 190 g/ ^m² , a row of 44 yarns/2.54 cm, and a warp of 26 yarns/2.54 cm.

[Comparative Example 23]

The blended yarn of Comparative Example 3 was combined with two yarns and applied 19 times in the S direction.

The yarn (40/2 count double yarn) is obtained by twisting at 2.54 cm.

Using the aforementioned double yarn, except as in Example 21, weaving, dyeing, and finishing were carried out to obtain a plain knit fabric with a unit area weight of 160 g/ ^m² , a row of 37 threads/2.54 cm, and a warp of 31 threads/2.54 cm.

The characteristic values and physical properties of the woven fabrics obtained in Examples 21-25 and Comparative Examples 21-23 are shown in Tables 4 and 5.

[Table 4]

[Table 5]

The woven fabrics obtained in Examples 21-25 use the double-layer structure textile yarn of the present invention, which is woven in such a way that the double-layer structure textile yarn appears on the surface of the fabric, thus exhibiting excellent anti-pilling properties.

On the other hand, the woven fabrics obtained in Comparative Examples 21 and 22 are double-layered textile yarns with ordinary polyester fibers having a circular cross-section in the core. Because double-layered textile yarns with low dimensional change rate in hot water are used, they become loose woven fabrics. As a result, the polyester fibers in the core are easily exposed on the surface of the textile yarn and woven fabric due to friction and rubbing, and because the polyester fibers have high fiber strength, they do not fall off and become a core, thus resulting in poor pilling resistance.

The woven fabric obtained in Comparative Example 23 used a blended textile yarn made by mixing only bicomponent composite short fibers and cotton. Since bicomponent composite short fibers are present on the surface of the woven fabric, the bicomponent composite short fibers on the surface of the woven fabric become the core, and the detached cotton is easy to entangle, thus the anti-pilling property is poor.

Symbol Explanation

A rear roller

B intermediate roller

C leather band

D front roller

E-spin

F-shaped wing

G textile yarn

H roving

S1 core yarn

S2 sheath yarn strips.

Claims (7)

1. A double-layer structure textile yarn, characterized in that, The double-layer structure textile yarn has a core and a sheath in a cross-section perpendicular to the yarn length direction. Both the core and the sheath are formed of short fibers. The core contains a bicomponent composite short fiber composed of polyethylene terephthalate and propylene terephthalate. The double-layer structure textile yarn contains 20% to 70% by mass of the bicomponent composite short fiber. The bicomponent composite short fiber is a composite short fiber made of poly(ethylene terephthalate) and poly(propylene terephthalate) bonded together in a side-by-side configuration. The bicomponent composite short fiber has a snowman-shaped cross-section perpendicular to its length direction, with two grooves. The aspect ratio (A:B) of the major axis length A to the minor axis length B of the cross-section is 1.8:1 to 1.2:1. Furthermore, the double-layer structure textile yarn satisfies all the characteristic values of (1) to (3) below. (1) The tensile strength of a single filament is above 1.0 cN/dtex; (2) The twist coefficient K is 120-180; (3) The size change rate of hot water is above 4.0%. 2. The double-layer structure textile yarn according to claim 1, wherein, The sheath contains cellulose-based short fibers, and the double-layer structure woven yarn contains 30% to 70% by mass of cellulose-based short fibers. 3. The double-layer structure textile yarn according to claim 1, wherein, The sheath contains animal hair fibers, and the double-layered woven yarn contains 30% to 70% animal hair fibers by mass. 4. The double-layer structure textile yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein, The total mass of the short fibers forming the core is 30-70: 70-30. 5. The double-layer structure textile yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein, The bicomponent composite short fiber satisfies all the following characteristic values (a) to (c). (a) The fineness of a single fiber is 0.8 to 3.0 dtex; (b) Fiber length is 30–60 mm; (c) Tensile strength is 2.0 to 4.0 cN/dtex. 6. A fabric, characterized in that it comprises a double-layered textile yarn as described in any one of claims 1 to 5. 7. A woven fabric, characterized in that it comprises a double-layered textile yarn as described in any one of claims 1 to 5.