HK40043683B - Piece of jewellery, method for cutting a stone, in particular a diamond, and associated mounting pin - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a piece of jewelry comprising stones, in particular diamonds, which are round and in particular circular.

The present invention also relates to a method for cutting a stone, in particular a diamond, with a view to its integration into the piece of jewelry.

The present invention also relates to a mounting pin for supporting a stone of the piece of jewelry.

The pieces of jewelry covered by the invention may be rings, bracelets, watches, necklaces or elements of necklaces, earrings, hair ornaments, buttons, etc., or even objects other than those intended for adorning the body, in other words any object decorated with precious or semi-precious stones, in particular diamonds.

The round shape, particularly circular, must be understood in the broad sense, this shape being able to be approximately realized by multiple plane polygons. Said round shape is understood in contrast to a “square”, “rectangular” shape or any other geometry with sides whose presence is dominant for the overall visual effect.

Many documents ( EP 0196 455 B1 , EP 0201 394 A1 , EP 0276 183 A1 , FR 2 580 541 A1 , FR 2 609 605 A1 ) describe pieces of jewelry where square stones are mounted in a close-fitting manner, like paving, concealing the setting located below the periphery of the stones, called "leafing." This is most often achieved by means of notches formed in the edges of the lower part of the stones, called "culasse," which is generally pyramidal in shape for square stones. The setting has conformations that engage with these notches. Once mounted, the stones fit against each other, square side against square side.

THE US 5,649,434 A and the US 5,713,219 A describe stones held on their support by two opposing beaks.

The aim of the invention is to allow the concealment of the setting for a piece of jewelry comprising round stones, typically a carpet of round stones.

• ▪ au moins une pierre, en particulier un diamant, comportant une face visible de forme générale ronde et une culasse en forme générale d'un cône ayant un axe, séparée de la face visible par un feuilletis périphérique, et
• ▪ une monture essentiellement située du côté de la culasse et comportant des griffes pour supporter la pierre,

est caractérisée en ce que :

• ▪ le feuilletis présente une certaine hauteur mesurée parallèlement à l'axe ;
• ▪ la pierre comporte au moins trois facettes chevauchant le feuilletis et la culasse en formant localement un biseau entre la culasse et le feuilletis ; et
• ▪ chaque facette est creusée d'une rainure s'étendant transversalement par rapport à l'axe et recevant un bec de l'une desdites griffes.

According to a first aspect of the invention, the piece of jewelry with:

• ▪ at least one stone, in particular a diamond, comprising a visible face of generally round shape and a pavilion in the general shape of a cone having an axis, separated from the visible face by a peripheral layer, and
• ▪ a mount essentially located on the side of the breech and comprising claws to support the stone,

is characterized in that:

• ▪ the lamination has a certain height measured parallel to the axis;
• ▪ the stone has at least three facets overlapping the foliation and the pavilion, locally forming a bevel between the pavilion and the foliation; and
• ▪ each facet is hollowed out with a groove extending transversely relative to the axis and receiving a beak of one of said claws.

The pavilion has a relatively open apex angle dictated by the search for optimal light refraction. Thanks to the facet, which has a steeper slope, it is easier to attack a machining tool. In addition, a shallower groove is sufficient to provide the claw of the setting with a grip to securely hold the stone. The at least three claws provided allow the stone to be positively positioned independently of neighboring stones.

Typically the lamination is generally cylindrical in shape. A cylindrical lamination is favorable for cutting the bevel facet.

According to an advantageous embodiment, in each facet the associated groove is open at both ends through a respective lateral edge of the facet. This configuration of the facet allows perfect cleaning of the groove after its machining. This is important for the purity of the light effects in the piece of jewelry. In particular, the groove can have a substantially constant profile over its entire length, from one open end to the other.

In one embodiment, the bottom of the groove extends in a rectilinear longitudinal direction, in particular parallel to the plane of the facet. This embodiment is simple and effective in allowing the claw to grip the groove well.

In an advantageous embodiment, the groove is formed in a plane perpendicular to the axis. This may, for example, be a sawing operation carried out in said plane.

The bottom of the groove is typically a surface parallel to the axis. This is achieved, for example, by sawing in a plane perpendicular to the axis as discussed above.

In a preferred embodiment the stone has four facets and four grooves.

In one embodiment, the angle between the axis and a facet median located in an axial plane is of the order of 40°. This is approximately 10° less than the half-angle at the apex of the pavilion of a classic round diamond.

Preferably, the facets leave the laminate intact around the edge of the upper surface. In this way, the existence of the facets has no impact on the appearance of the stone after it has been mounted in the piece of jewelry.

In one embodiment, the facets locally reduce the height of the lamination to a non-zero value. This is favorable for a stable contact point between adjacent stones.

According to one embodiment, the facets are grouped in pairs of neighboring facets arranged in a V shape relative to each other, the pairs being spaced apart, preferably regularly distributed around the axis.

Particularly for small stones, the setting comprises for each pair of facets two aforementioned claws having a common foot, separated from the foot of at least one other pair of claws. But it is also possible, particularly for larger stones, for the setting to comprise for each facet a claw connected to the base independently of the other claws.

In one embodiment, the setting comprises a plate and, for each aforementioned stone, a stud carrying the claws associated with this stone. Preferably, the stud comprises means for snapping into a respective recess in the plate.

Preferably, the claws associated with the same stone are elastically flexible in the direction of mutual spacing to receive the stone by snapping the stone between the associated claws. This facilitates the assembly operations of the piece of jewelry.

Typically, in jewelry, stones are mounted with contact or near-contact between the layers of neighboring stones. This is how the setting is best concealed on the assembled piece of jewelry. Since the stones are round, they are not in mutual contact all around their circumference but only at certain points of contact or near-contact. Preferably, the prongs are located below these points of contact or near-contact between layers, rather than below areas where neighboring stones leave a gap between them.

• ▪ on taille dans la pierre au moins trois facettes chevauchant le feuilletis et la culasse en formant localement un biseau entre la culasse et le feuilletis ; et
• ▪ on creuse chaque facette d'une rainure s'étendant transversalement par rapport à l'axe.

According to a second aspect of the invention, the method for cutting a stone, in particular a diamond, with a view to producing a piece of jewelry according to the preceding aspect or any of its improvements or combination of improvements, the stone comprising a visible face of generally round shape and a pavilion in the general shape of a cone having an axis, separated from the visible face by a peripheral layer, is characterized in that

• ▪ at least three facets are cut into the stone, overlapping the foliation and the culet, locally forming a bevel between the culet and the foliation; and
• ▪ each facet is hollowed out with a groove extending transversely to the axis.

Preferably the facet cutting operation remains below an upper limit of the lamination, so as not to affect the appearance of the stone as seen on the finished piece of jewelry.

In one method of implementing the process, before cutting the facets, the periphery of the stone is recut so as to reduce its dimension perpendicular to the axis over its entire circumference and at the same time to reveal or enlarge an axial height of the lamination. This facilitates the production of the facets and allows them to be given a steeper slope which will facilitate the machining of the groove.

Typically, grooves are formed by sawing, particularly in a plane perpendicular to the axis.

In one embodiment, the sawing is deep enough so that the groove has an undercut retaining face along its edge opposite the lamination.

• ▪ une base commune équipée de moyens d'encliquetage dans une platine ; et
• ▪ au moins trois griffes réparties autour d'un axe, comportant chacune un bec d'encliquetage dirigé vers l'axe, et capables de s'écarter l'une de l'autre par flexion élastique.

According to a third aspect of the invention, the mounting pin for a piece of jewelry according to the first aspect or any of its improvements or combinations of improvements, is characterized in that it comprises:

• ▪ a common base equipped with means for snapping into a plate; and
• ▪ at least three claws distributed around an axis, each comprising a snap-on beak directed towards the axis, and capable of moving away from each other by elastic bending.

In one embodiment, the spike has an even number of claws, grouped in pairs of neighboring claws, the pairs being regularly distributed around the axis.

Particularly for the mounting of small stones, the two claws of the same pair are connected to the base by a common foot, distinct from the foot of at least one other pair.

Other features and advantages of the invention will emerge from the description below, relating to non-limiting examples.

• ▪ la Figure 1 est une vue partielle en élévation d'une pièce de joaillerie selon l'invention, avec coupe de la platine ;
• ▪ la Figure 2 est une vue partielle de dessus de la pièce de joaillerie de la Figure 1, la partie droite de la Figure ne montrant que la platine ;
• ▪ le Figure 3 est une vue en perspective d'une pierre de la pièce de joaillerie des Figures 1 et 2 ;
• ▪ la Figure 4 est une vue en élévation de la pierre de la Figure 3 ;
• ▪ la Figure 5 est une autre vue en élévation de la pierre de la Figure 3 ;
• ▪ la Figure 6 est une vue de dessous de la pierre des Figures 3 à 5 ;
• ▪ la Figure 7 est une vue en perspective d'un picot de la monture de la pièce de joaillerie des Figures 1 et 2 ;
• ▪ la Figure 8 est une vue de dessus du picot de la Figure 7 ;
• ▪ la Figure 9 est une vue en coupe selon IX - IX de la Figure 8 ;
• ▪ la Figure 10 est une vue en perspective de la pierre des Figures 3 à 6 montée sur le picot des Figures 7 à 9 ;
• ▪ la Figure 11 est une vue analogue à la Figure 10 mais avec une pierre plus petite et un deuxième mode de réalisation du picot ;
• ▪ La figure 12 est une vue en élévation montrant la pierre et le picot, dans un troisième mode de réalisation du picot ;
• ▪ La figure 13 est une vue en perspective du picot de la figure 12 ; et
• ▪ La figure 14 est une vue en perspective d'un autre mode de réalisation du picot.

In the attached drawings:

• ▪ Figure 1 is a partial elevation view of a piece of jewelry according to the invention, with a section of the plate;
• ▪ Figure 2 is a partial top view of the piece of jewelry in Figure 1, the right part of the Figure showing only the plate;
• ▪ Figure 3 is a perspective view of a stone from the piece of jewelry in Figures 1 and 2;
• ▪ Figure 4 is an elevation view of the stone in Figure 3;
• ▪ Figure 5 is another elevation view of the stone of Figure 3;
• ▪ Figure 6 is a bottom view of the stone of Figures 3 to 5;
• ▪ Figure 7 is a perspective view of a stud of the setting of the piece of jewelry of Figures 1 and 2;
• ▪ Figure 8 is a top view of the spike of Figure 7;
• ▪ Figure 9 is a sectional view along IX - IX of Figure 8;
• ▪ Figure 10 is a perspective view of the stone of Figures 3 to 6 mounted on the spike of Figures 7 to 9;
• ▪ Figure 11 is a view similar to Figure 10 but with a smaller stone and a second embodiment of the spike;
• ▪ Figure 12 is an elevational view showing the stone and the spike, in a third embodiment of the spike;
• ▪ Figure 13 is a perspective view of the stud of Figure 12; and
• ▪ Figure 14 is a perspective view of another embodiment of the spike.

This description extends to the embodiments described but also to any particularity or combination of particularities, in the terms used or in more general terms, even if these particularities or combinations of particularities come from a part of a sentence, a part of a paragraph, or several parts of a sentence or paragraph, as long as the particularity or combination of particularities is distinguished from the state of the art and produces an advantage over the state of the art.

In the example of the Figures 1 and 2 , the piece of jewelry includes several stones 1, in particular diamonds, which have in top view ( Figure 2 ) a round shape, in particular circular. Each stone 1 has a visible face 2 and a pavilion 3 separated from the visible face by a foliation 4 which forms the periphery of the stone and defines its diameter which is typically a few mm, for example here 4.7 mm. The foliation is here of cylindrical shape. The pavilion 3 is of generally conical shape along an axis 6 which constitutes the axis of the stone and in particular the axis of the foliation 4 and the axis of the visible face 2. The generally conical shape is here defined by multiple plane polygons (triangles), in a conventional manner in jewelry. In the embodiment shown, the stones 1 are adjacent to each other and in particular are in contact or quasi-contact with each other by their foliations 4, in contact or quasi-contact bridges 7.

The piece of jewelry further comprises a setting 8 essentially located on the side of the pavilion 3 of the stones and comprising claws 9 for supporting the stones. In one embodiment, the claws 9 belong to pins 27 each assigned to a respective one of the stones, and which each carry four claws 9. The setting 8 further comprises an underlying plate 26, in which the pins 27 are fixed, in a manner which will be described in detail later.

We will now, with reference to the Figures 3 to 6 , describe in more detail the preferred stone for implementing the invention. The sheet 4 has a certain height measured parallel to the axis, the average value of which is designated by h ( Figure 4 ), the precise height being fluctuating along the circumference of the rounded fact created by the intersection of the cylinder of the foliation with the planes of the polygons defining the conical shape and other flat faces present on the circumference of the visible face 2 of the stone.

The stone further comprises, for each claw, a facet 13 which overlaps the foliation 4 and the pavilion 3, locally forming a bevel between the pavilion 3 and the foliation 4. Each facet 13 encroaches on the foliation 4 and locally reduces the axial height of the foliation 4 relative to the value h. However, said axial height is not cancelled out, the facets 13 leave the foliation intact around the periphery of the upper face 2. The presence of the facets 13 is not directly perceptible when the visible face 2 is observed along the axis 6.

Each facet 13 is hollowed out with a groove 14 extending transversely relative to the axis 6 and receiving a beak 16 ( Figure 1 ) of a respective one of said claws 9. Here each groove 14 has a longitudinal direction 17 (see Figure 6 for one of the grooves) perpendicular to axis 6.

In each facet 13 the associated groove 14 is open at its two ends 18 through a respective lateral edge 19 of the facet.

In one embodiment, the bottom of the groove 14 extends in a rectilinear longitudinal direction, preferably parallel to the plane of the corresponding facet 13.

Typically, each groove 14 is formed in a plane 21 ( Figure 5 ) perpendicular to the axis 6. In the example shown this plane is the same for all the grooves 14 of the stone.

In the embodiment shown, the background 22 ( Figure 5 ) of the groove is a surface parallel to the axis 6. When the longitudinal direction of the groove is rectilinear this surface of the bottom is then flat.

The represented embodiment of the stone has four facets 13 and four grooves 14.

In one embodiment the angle A ( Figure 5 ) between axis 6 and a median 23 ( Figures 3 And 5 ) of facet located in an axial plane is of the order of 40°, or approximately 10° less than the half-angle at the apex B of the cone formed by the culet 3.

As shown by the Figures 3 , 4 and 6 , in the embodiment shown, the facets 13 are grouped in pairs of neighboring facets arranged in a V relative to each other. The pairs are spaced apart, preferably regularly distributed around the axis. By way of example, a pair is designated by the reference 24 in the Figure 6 The grooves 14 of two facets of the same pair 24 communicate with each other by a common end 18.

We will now describe more specifically the setting 8 and its cooperation with the stones 1, also referring to the Figures 7 to 10 .

In one embodiment, each pin 27 comprises for each facet 13 a claw 9 connected to a base 28 of the pin, by which the pin is fixed to the plate 26. In the example of figures 1 to 10 , each claw 9 is fixed to the base 28 independently of the other claws 9 of the spike.

For its attachment to the plate 26, the pin comprises, in the embodiment shown, snap-fastening means 29 in a respective recess 31 of the plate 26. In this particular example, these are two opposite snap-fastening hooks which engage below two opposite edges of the recess 31 produced in the form of a rectangular window.

The recess 31 has a shape (here rectangular) which only allows, for the orientation of the pin 27 around its axis, a number (here 2) of orientations at most equal to the order of symmetry of the pin 27 and of the stone 1 around the axis 6. This is one possible means, among others, for all the pins 27 and all the stones to be oriented in the same way around their respective axis in the piece of jewelry (See Figure 2 where the orientation of the spikes and stones is visible from the position of the claws visible in dotted lines).

In one embodiment, the claws 9 associated with the same stone, therefore here belonging to the same pin 27, are elastically flexible in the direction of mutual spacing to receive the stone 1 by snapping the stone between the associated claws 9.

In the finished piece of jewelry, with the stones 1 in mutual contact or near-contact, the claws are located as much as possible below the points of contact or near-contact 7 between sheets 4, as visible in the Figure 2 This can be achieved by limiting the number of orientations permitted for the pins 27 relative to the plate 26 as described previously.

The method of realization of the Figure 11 typically concerns smaller stones, for example a diameter of 2.5mm. For each pair 24 ( Figure 4 ) of facets 13 the mount comprises two aforementioned claws 9 having a common foot 32, separated from the foot 32 of the at least one other pair of claws 9.

The method of realization of the figures 12 and 13 will only be described for its differences with that of the figures 7 to 10 .

Between the successive claws 9 belonging to different pairs, the spike 127 has legs 109 extending from the base 28, to laterally retain the stone 1. The legs 109 are distinguished from the claws 9 in particular in that they are devoid of a beak 16. The legs 109 are separated from the claws 9 by slots 111 which allow the claws 9 to flex independently of the legs 109. The legs 109 are connected to the claws only by the base 28 of the spike 127 in this embodiment.

In the embodiment of the figure 14 , which will only be described for its differences with that of the figures 12 and 13 , the legs 109 are replaced on the spike 227 by arches 209 which connect in a single piece the successive claws 9 belonging to different pairs. The arches 209 extend circumferentially at a certain distance from the base 28 and serve like the legs 109 for the lateral retention of the stone mounted on the spike.

We will now describe the particularities of the process which do not result from the preceding description.

The grooves 14 can be machined by sawing, in particular in a plane 21 ( Figure 5 ) perpendicular to axis 6.

The sawing or other machining is deep enough that the groove has a retaining face 20 ( Figure 5 ) undercut along its edge opposite sheet 4.

As illustrated by a mixed line 33 at the Figure 4 , before cutting the facets 13 in a stone initially cut in a conventional manner, for example as received from a supplier, it may be advantageous to recut the periphery of the stone according to the mixed line 33 so as to reduce its dimension perpendicular to the axis over its entire circumference and at the same time to reveal or enlarge the axial height of the lamination. This facilitates the creation of the facets 13 according to the invention and/or makes it possible to further reduce their angle A ( Figure 5 ). This, in turn, makes it easier to machine the grooves 14 and reduces the depth to be given to them so that their edge opposite the visible surface forms an undercut giving grip to the claws 9. Shallower grooves are less likely to disturb the play of light in the stone.

Of course, the invention is not limited to the examples described and shown. Only three claws and three grooves could be provided per stone.

Claims (19)

1. - Piece of jewellery with:

   ▪ at least one stone (1), in particular a diamond, having a visible face (2) with a generally round shape and a pavilion (3) with a generally conical shape having an axis (6), separated from the visible face (2) by a peripheral girdle (4), and

   ▪ a mount (8) located essentially on the same side as the pavilion (3) and having claws (9) for supporting the stone (1),

   characterized in that:

   ▪ the girdle (4) has a certain height (h) measured parallel to the axis (6);

   ▪ the stone (1) has at least three facets (13) overlapping the girdle (4) and the pavilion (3), locally forming a bevel between the pavilion (3) and the girdle (4); and

   ▪ each facet (13) has a groove (14) formed therein, extending transverse to the axis (6) and receiving a lip (16) of one of said claws (9).
2. - Piece of jewellery according to claim 1, characterized in that the girdle (4) has a generally cylindrical shape.
3. - Piece of jewellery according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that in each facet (13) the associated groove (14) is open at both of its ends (18) across a respective lateral edge (19) of the facet (13), wherein the bottom (22) of the groove (14) is preferably rectilinear.
4. - Piece of jewellery according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the stone (1) has four facets (13) and four grooves (14).
5. - Piece of jewellery according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the angle (A) between the axis (6) and a median (23) of a facet (13), said median located in an axial plane, is of the order of 40°.
6. - Piece of jewellery according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the facets (13) leave the girdle (4) intact over the circumference of the visible face (2), and in that, preferably, the facets (13) locally reduce the axial height of the girdle (4) to a non-zero value.
7. - Piece of jewellery according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the facets (13) are grouped in pairs (24) of neighbouring facets arranged in a V with respect to each other, wherein the pairs are spaced apart from each other, and preferably are evenly distributed around the axis (6).
8. - Piece of jewellery according to claim 7, characterized in that, for each pair (24) of facets, the mount (8) has two abovementioned claws (9) having a common foot (32), separated from the foot of the at least one other pair of claws.
9. - Piece of jewellery according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the mount (8) comprises a plate (26) and, for each abovementioned stone, a pin (27) bearing the claws (9) associated with this stone (1).
10. - Piece of jewellery according to claim 9, characterized in that the pin (27) has means (29) for snapping into a respective recess (31) in the plate (26).
11. - Piece of jewellery according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the claws (9) associated with one and the same stone (1) are elastically flexible in the direction in which they move apart from each other to thereby receive the stone by snapping in between the associated claws (9).
12. - Piece of jewellery according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the at least one stone (1) comprises several stones mounted with contact or near contact (7) between the girdles (4) of the neighbouring stones.
13. - Piece of jewellery according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the mount comprises, at least in certain spaces between successive claws (9) associated with one and the same stone, means for laterally retaining the stone, in particular in each such space a tab (109) for retaining the stone (1) or a circumferential arch (209) for retaining the stone (1).
14. - Method for cutting a stone (1), in particular a diamond, with a view to producing a piece of jewellery according to any one of claims 1 to 13, the stone having a visible face (2) with a generally round shape and a pavilion (3) with a generally conical shape having an axis (6), separated from the visible face (2) by a peripheral girdle (4), characterized in that

    ▪ at least three facets (13) overlapping the girdle (4) and the pavilion (3) are cut into the stone, locally forming a bevel between the pavilion (3) and the girdle (4); and

    ▪ each facet (13) has a groove (14) formed therein, extending transverse to the axis.
15. - Method according to claim 14, characterized in that, before the facets (13) are cut, the periphery of the stone is cut again so as to reduce its dimension perpendicular to the axis (6) over its full circumference and jointly make an axial height (h) of the girdle (4) appear or increase.
16. - Method according to claim 14 or 15, characterized in that the grooves (14) are formed by sawing, wherein, in particular, the sawing is deep enough that the groove (14) has a retaining face (20) undercut along its edge remote from the girdle (4).
17. - Mounting pin for a piece of jewellery according to any one of claims 1 to 13, or for a piece of jewellery obtained using the method according to one of claims 14 to 16, characterized in that it comprises:

    ▪ a common base (28) equipped with means (29) for snapping into a plate (26); and

    ▪ at least three claws (9) distributed around an axis (6), each having a snap-in lip (16) directed towards the axis (6), said claws capable of moving apart from each other by elastic bending.
18. - Mounting pin according to claim 17, characterized in that there is an even number of claws (9), grouped in pairs (24) of neighbouring claws, wherein the pairs are evenly distributed around the axis (6) and the two claws of one and the same pair are preferably connected to the base by a common foot (32), separate from the foot of the at least one other pair.
19. - Pin according to claim 17 or 18, characterized in that it comprises, at least in certain spaces between successive claws (9), in particular belonging to two different pairs, a means for laterally retaining the stone, in particular a tab (109) starting from the base (28) or a circumferential arch (209) connecting said successive claws (9).