HK1259765B - Engineered bra - Google Patents
Engineered braInfo
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- HK1259765B HK1259765B HK19119538.7A HK19119538A HK1259765B HK 1259765 B HK1259765 B HK 1259765B HK 19119538 A HK19119538 A HK 19119538A HK 1259765 B HK1259765 B HK 1259765B
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Description
发明领域Field of the Invention
本公开涉及工程化胸罩(engineered bra)。The present disclosure relates to engineered bras.
发明背景Background of the Invention
胸罩可以包含不同的功能区域,该不同的功能区域是通过各种离散材料与各种制造技术的整合来完成的以实现不同的功能区域中的每一个。例如,胸罩的单独的部分可以从不同的材料源单独地切割,以最终缝合和/或粘合在一起以形成胸罩。A bra may contain different functional areas that are achieved by integrating various discrete materials with various manufacturing techniques to achieve each of the different functional areas. For example, separate parts of a bra may be cut separately from different material sources to ultimately be sewn and/or bonded together to form the bra.
发明内容Summary of the Invention
本公开涉及一种工程化胸罩,包括:The present disclosure relates to an engineered brassiere, comprising:
第一针织区,所述第一针织区沿着第一方向呈现预定范围内的第一弹性模量并且沿着第二方向呈现预定范围内的第二弹性模量,所述第一针织区包括形成一对工程化胸罩条带的第一多根经编针织纱线;a first knit region exhibiting a first modulus of elasticity within a predetermined range along a first direction and a second modulus of elasticity within a predetermined range along a second direction, the first knit region comprising a first plurality of warp knit yarns forming a pair of engineered bra straps;
第二针织区,所述第二针织区沿着所述第一方向呈现预定范围内的第三弹性模量并且沿着所述第二方向呈现预定范围内的第四弹性模量,所述第二针织区邻近所述第一针织区并且包括形成工程化胸罩罩杯的第二多根经编针织纱线,其中,所述第二多根经编针织纱线中的纱线与所述第一多根经编针织纱线中的纱线互锁;以及a second knit region exhibiting a third modulus of elasticity within a predetermined range along the first direction and a fourth modulus of elasticity within a predetermined range along the second direction, the second knit region being adjacent to the first knit region and comprising a second plurality of warp knit yarns forming an engineered bra cup, wherein yarns of the second plurality of warp knit yarns are interlocked with yarns of the first plurality of warp knit yarns; and
第三针织区,所述第三针织区沿着所述第一方向呈现预定范围内的第五弹性模量并且沿着所述第二方向呈现预定范围内的第六弹性模量,所述第三针织区邻近所述第二针织区并且包括第三多根经编针织纱线和至少一根衬垫纱线,所述第三多根经编针织纱线和所述至少一根衬垫纱线形成工程化胸罩箍带,其中,所述第三多根经编针织纱线中的纱线与所述第二多根经编针织纱线中的纱线互锁。a third knit region exhibiting a fifth modulus of elasticity within a predetermined range along the first direction and a sixth modulus of elasticity within a predetermined range along the second direction, the third knit region being adjacent to the second knit region and comprising a third plurality of warp knit yarns and at least one spacer yarn, the third plurality of warp knit yarns and the at least one spacer yarn forming an engineered bra cuff, wherein yarns of the third plurality of warp knit yarns are interlocked with yarns of the second plurality of warp knit yarns.
在一种实施方案中,当所述工程化胸罩处于穿用构型时,所述工程化胸罩条带、所述工程化胸罩罩杯和所述工程化胸罩箍带中的每一个对应于特定的支撑功能。In one embodiment, each of said engineered bra straps, said engineered bra cups, and said engineered bra cuffs corresponds to a specific support function when said engineered bra is in the wear configuration.
在一种实施方案中,所述第一方向对应于从中取出所述工程化胸罩的工程化材料的织物长度。In one embodiment, the first direction corresponds to a fabric length of the engineered material from which the engineered brassiere was removed.
在一种实施方案中,所述第二方向对应于从中取出所述工程化胸罩的工程化材料的织物宽度。In one embodiment, the second direction corresponds to the fabric width of the engineered material from which the engineered brassiere was removed.
在一种实施方案中,所述第一方向对应于从中取出所述工程化胸罩的工程化材料的织物宽度。In one embodiment, the first direction corresponds to the fabric width of the engineered material from which the engineered brassiere was removed.
在一种实施方案中,所述第二方向对应于从中取出所述工程化胸罩的工程化材料的织物长度。In one embodiment, the second direction corresponds to a fabric length of the engineered material from which the engineered brassiere was removed.
在一种实施方案中,所述第一多根经编针织纱线、所述第二多根经编针织纱线和所述第三多根经编针织纱线包括在每个针织区内以编链线迹构型经编针织的氨纶纱线。In one embodiment, the first plurality of warp knit yarns, the second plurality of warp knit yarns, and the third plurality of warp knit yarns comprise spandex yarns warp knitted in a chain stitch configuration within each knit region.
在一种实施方案中,所述第一弹性模量沿着所述第一方向在第一范围之间,并且所述第二弹性模量沿着所述第二方向在第二范围之间。In one embodiment, the first elastic modulus is within a first range along the first direction, and the second elastic modulus is within a second range along the second direction.
在一种实施方案中,相对于所述第二弹性模量的沿着所述第二方向的非锁定特性,所述第一弹性模量包括沿着所述第一方向的锁定特性。In one embodiment, the first elastic modulus includes a locking characteristic along the first direction relative to a non-locking characteristic of the second elastic modulus along the second direction.
在一种实施方案中,相对于所述第二弹性模量的沿着所述第二方向的所述非锁定特性,所述第五弹性模量包括沿着所述第一方向的锁定特性并且所述第六弹性模量包括沿着所述第二方向的锁定特性。In one embodiment, relative to the non-locking property of the second elastic modulus along the second direction, the fifth elastic modulus includes a locking property along the first direction and the sixth elastic modulus includes a locking property along the second direction.
在一种实施方案中,所述第五弹性模量沿着所述第一方向在第三范围之间,并且所述第六弹性模量沿着所述第二方向在第四范围之间。In one embodiment, the fifth elastic modulus is within a third range along the first direction, and the sixth elastic modulus is within a fourth range along the second direction.
在一种实施方案中,所述第三弹性模量沿着所述第一方向在第五范围之间,并且所述第四弹性模量沿着所述第二方向在第六范围之间,并且进一步地,其中,所述第三弹性模量包括沿着所述第一方向的非锁定特性并且所述第四弹性模量包括沿着所述第二方向的非锁定特性。In one embodiment, the third elastic modulus is between the fifth range along the first direction and the fourth elastic modulus is between the sixth range along the second direction, and further, wherein the third elastic modulus includes a non-locking characteristic along the first direction and the fourth elastic modulus includes a non-locking characteristic along the second direction.
本公开还涉及一种工程化胸罩,包括:The present disclosure also relates to an engineered brassiere, comprising:
针织条带区,所述针织条带区包括具有条带宽度和条带长度的一对胸罩条带,其中,所述针织条带区包括多根条带区纱线,所述多根条带区纱线在第一方向上用条带非锁定规格针织并且在第二方向上用条带锁定规格针织,所述条带宽度具有大于所述条带长度的弹性模量的弹性模量;a knitted strap region comprising a pair of bra straps having a strap width and a strap length, wherein the knitted strap region comprises a plurality of strap region yarns knitted in a first direction with a strap non-locking gauge and in a second direction with a strap locking gauge, the strap width having a modulus of elasticity greater than the modulus of elasticity of the strap length;
针织罩杯区,所述针织罩杯区包括多根罩杯区纱线,所述多根罩杯区纱线在第一方向上用罩杯非锁定规格针织并且在第二方向上用罩杯非锁定规格针织,其中,所述多根条带区纱线中的纱线与所述多根罩杯区纱线中的纱线互锁;以及a knitted cup region comprising a plurality of cup region yarns knitted in a first direction with a cup unlocking gauge and in a second direction with a cup unlocking gauge, wherein yarns of the plurality of strip region yarns interlock with yarns of the plurality of cup region yarns; and
针织胸部箍带区,所述针织胸部箍带区包括多根胸部箍带区纱线,所述多根胸部箍带区纱线在第一方向上用胸部箍带锁定规格针织并且在第二方向上用胸部箍带锁定规格针织,其中,所述多根胸部箍带区纱线中的纱线与所述多根罩杯区纱线中的纱线互锁,并且进一步地,其中,所述多根胸部箍带区纱线包括衬垫硬纱线,所述衬垫硬纱线最小化相对于所述针织罩杯区在所述针织胸部箍带区内的伸长,a knitted chest cuff region comprising a plurality of chest cuff region yarns knitted in a first direction with a chest cuff lock gauge and in a second direction with a chest cuff lock gauge, wherein yarns of the plurality of chest cuff region yarns interlock with yarns of the plurality of cup region yarns, and further wherein the plurality of chest cuff region yarns comprises a spacer hard yarn that minimizes elongation within the knitted chest cuff region relative to the knitted cup region,
其中,所述多根条带区纱线、所述多根罩杯区纱线和所述多根胸部箍带区纱线中的每个包括具有第一单丝旦尼尔(DPF)率的面纱以及具有低于第一DPF率的第二DPF率的背纱,其中,所述面纱包括1×1垫纱结构,所述背纱包括1×3垫纱结构,并且在每个针织区内以编链线迹构型针织氨纶纱线。wherein each of the plurality of strip area yarns, the plurality of cup area yarns, and the plurality of chest cuff area yarns comprises a face yarn having a first denier per filament (DPF) rate and a back yarn having a second DPF rate lower than the first DPF rate, wherein the face yarn comprises a 1×1 inlay yarn structure, the back yarn comprises a 1×3 inlay yarn structure, and the spandex yarn is knitted in a chain stitch configuration within each knitting area.
在一种实施方案中,所述条带区纱线、所述罩杯区纱线和所述胸部箍带区纱线中的每一个包括修改相应支撑区的弹性模量值的一个或更多个工程化特征。In one embodiment, each of the strap region yarn, the cup region yarn, and the chest cuff region yarn includes one or more engineered features that modify the elastic modulus value of the corresponding support region.
在一种实施方案中,当所述工程化胸罩处于穿用构型时,所述针织罩杯区适于位于穿用者的乳房罩杯区域上方。In one embodiment, the knitted cup region is adapted to be positioned over the breast cup area of the wearer when the engineered brassiere is in the wear configuration.
本公开还涉及一种工程化胸罩,包括:The present disclosure also relates to an engineered brassiere, comprising:
条带区,所述条带区具有多根条带区纱线,所述多根条带区纱线在所述工程化胸罩中被经编针织以在第一方向上提供第一拉伸模量并且在第二方向上提供第二拉伸模量,所述多根条带区纱线包括前部纱线组成和后部纱线组成;a stripe region having a plurality of stripe region yarns warp knitted in the engineered brassiere to provide a first tensile modulus in a first direction and a second tensile modulus in a second direction, the plurality of stripe region yarns comprising a front yarn component and a back yarn component;
罩杯区,所述罩杯区具有多根罩杯区纱线,所述多根罩杯区纱线在所述工程化胸罩中被经编针织以在所述第一方向上提供第三拉伸模量并且在所述第二方向上提供第四拉伸模量,所述多根罩杯区纱线包括1×1垫纱的前部纱线组成和1×3垫纱的后部纱线组成;a cup region having a plurality of cup region yarns that are warp knitted in the engineered brassiere to provide a third tensile modulus in the first direction and a fourth tensile modulus in the second direction, the plurality of cup region yarns comprising a front yarn composition of 1×1 inlays and a back yarn composition of 1×3 inlays;
胸部箍带区,所述胸部箍带区具有多根胸部箍带区纱线,所述多根胸部箍带区纱线在所述工程化胸罩中被经编针织以在所述第一方向上提供第五拉伸模量并且在所述第二方向上提供第六拉伸模量,所述多根胸部箍带区纱线包括1×1垫纱的前部纱线组成、1×3垫纱的后部纱线组成和衬垫硬纱线,其中,条带区纱线与罩杯区纱线互锁,并且所述罩杯区纱线与胸部箍带区纱线互锁。a chest cuff region having a plurality of chest cuff region yarns warp knitted in the engineered bra to provide a fifth tensile modulus in the first direction and a sixth tensile modulus in the second direction, the plurality of chest cuff region yarns comprising a front yarn composition of 1×1 inlays, a back yarn composition of 1×3 inlays, and a backing hard yarn, wherein the strap region yarns are interlocked with the cup region yarns, and the cup region yarns are interlocked with the chest cuff region yarns.
在一种实施方案中,所述前部纱线组成包括具有第一DPF的聚酯纱线,其中,所述后部纱线组成包括具有小于所述第一DPF的第二DPF的聚酯纱线,使得湿气从胸罩后部侧朝向胸罩前部侧转移。In one embodiment, the front yarn composition includes polyester yarn having a first DPF, wherein the back yarn composition includes polyester yarn having a second DPF smaller than the first DPF, such that moisture is transferred from the back side of the bra toward the front side of the bra.
在一种实施方案中,所述多根条带区纱线、所述多根罩杯区纱线和所述多根胸部箍带区纱线中的每个包括在整个所述工程化胸罩上的处于编链线迹构型的氨纶纱线。In one embodiment, each of the plurality of strap region yarns, the plurality of cup region yarns, and the plurality of chest cuff region yarns comprises spandex yarn in a chain stitch configuration throughout the engineered brassiere.
在一种实施方案中,所述第三拉伸模量和所述第四拉伸模量中的至少一个处于适应所述罩杯区的至少一部分的模制的预定范围内。In one embodiment, at least one of the third tensile modulus and the fourth tensile modulus is within a predetermined range to accommodate molding of at least a portion of the breast cup region.
在一种实施方案中,当所述工程化胸罩处于穿用构型时,至少一个支撑区的至少一个一体式结构适于位于穿用者的特定部分上方。In one embodiment, the at least one unitary structure of at least one support zone is adapted to lie over a specific portion of a wearer when the engineered brassiere is in the wear configuration.
附图简述BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
下面参考附图详细描述多个方面的示例,其中:Examples of various aspects are described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:
图1图示了根据本文的方面的具有预先构造的锁定区和拉伸区的示例性工程化针织胸罩材料的俯视图;FIG1 illustrates a top view of an exemplary engineered knit bra material having pre-configured locking and stretch zones according to aspects herein;
图2图示了根据本文的方面的具有另外的覆盖特征的图1的工程化针织胸罩材料的俯视图;FIG. 2 illustrates a top view of the engineered knit bra material of FIG. 1 with additional covering features according to aspects herein;
图3图示了根据本文的方面的图2的工程化针织胸罩的切出的胸罩前部;FIG3 illustrates a cut-out bra front of the engineered knit bra of FIG2 according to aspects herein;
图4图示了根据本文的方面的被构造成联接到图3的胸罩前部的示例性胸罩后部;FIG. 4 illustrates an exemplary bra rear portion configured to couple to the bra front portion of FIG. 3 , according to aspects herein;
图5图示了根据本文的方面的组装的工程化针织胸罩,该组装的工程化针织胸罩具有预先构造的锁定区和拉伸区以及另外的覆盖特征;FIG5 illustrates an assembled engineered knit brassiere having pre-configured locking and stretch zones and additional coverage features according to aspects herein;
图6图示了根据本文的方面的示例性工程化针织胸罩材料的俯视图,该组装的工程化针织胸罩材料具有预先构造的锁定区和拉伸区以及另外的一体式针织结构;FIG6 illustrates a top view of an exemplary engineered knit bra material according to aspects herein, the assembled engineered knit bra material having pre-configured lock and stretch zones and additional unitary knit construction;
图7图示了根据本文的方面的组装的工程化针织胸罩的前透视图,该组装的工程化针织胸罩具有预先构造的锁定区和拉伸区以及另外的一体式针织结构;FIG. 7 illustrates a front perspective view of an assembled engineered knit brassiere having pre-configured locking and stretch zones and additional unitary knit construction according to aspects herein;
图8图示了根据本文的方面的图7的组装的工程化针织胸罩的后透视图;FIG8 illustrates a rear perspective view of the assembled engineered knit brassiere of FIG7 according to aspects herein;
图9图示了根据本文的方面的图7的组装的工程化针织胸罩的后视图;FIG. 9 illustrates a rear view of the assembled engineered knit bra of FIG. 7 , according to aspects herein;
图10是根据本文的方面的具有预先构造的锁定区和拉伸区的示例性工程化编织胸罩材料的俯视图;FIG10 is a top view of an exemplary engineered woven bra material having pre-configured locking and stretch zones according to aspects herein;
图11图示了根据本文的方面的组装的工程化编织胸罩的前透视图,该组装的工程化编织胸罩具有预先构造的锁定区和拉伸区;FIG. 11 illustrates a front perspective view of an assembled engineered knit brassiere having pre-configured locking and stretch zones according to aspects herein;
图12是根据本文的方面的图11的组装的工程化编织胸罩的后透视图;FIG. 12 is a rear perspective view of the assembled engineered knit brassiere of FIG. 11 , according to aspects herein;
图13是根据本文的方面的图11的组装的工程化编织胸罩的前透视图;FIG. 13 is a front perspective view of the assembled engineered knit brassiere of FIG. 11 , according to aspects herein;
图14是根据本文的方面的具有预先构造的锁定区和拉伸区的示例性工程化编织胸罩材料的俯视图;FIG14 is a top view of an exemplary engineered woven bra material having pre-configured locking and stretch zones according to aspects herein;
图15是根据本文的方面的示例性工程化编织胸罩的前视图,该工程化编织胸罩具有整合在编织材料内的预先构造的锁定区和拉伸区、支撑通道和罩杯口袋(cup pockets);FIG15 is a front view of an exemplary engineered woven brassiere having pre-configured lock and stretch zones, support channels, and cup pockets integrated into the woven material according to aspects herein;
图16是根据本文的方面的图15的工程化编织胸罩在第一位置处的横截面视图,其包括支撑通道和罩杯口袋特征;FIG16 is a cross-sectional view of the engineered knit brassiere of FIG15 in a first position including support channels and cup pocket features according to aspects herein;
图17A是根据本文的方面的图15的工程化编织胸罩在第二位置处的横截面视图,其包括支撑通道、罩杯口袋和通气特征;17A is a cross-sectional view of the engineered knit brassiere of FIG. 15 in a second position, including support channels, cup pockets, and ventilation features, according to aspects herein;
图17B是根据本文的方面的图17A的工程化编织胸罩的放大横截面视图,其描绘了通气特征;FIG17B is an enlarged cross-sectional view of the engineered knitted brassiere of FIG17A depicting ventilation features according to aspects herein;
图18是根据本文的方面的具有图15的胸罩前部结构的组装的工程化编织胸罩的前透视图;FIG. 18 is a front perspective view of an assembled engineered knit brassiere having the brassiere front structure of FIG. 15 , according to aspects herein;
图19是图示了根据本文的方面的具有预先构造的锁定区和拉伸区的示例性工程化针织胸罩材料的俯视图;FIG19 is a top view illustrating an exemplary engineered knit bra material having pre-configured locking and stretch zones according to aspects herein;
图20图示了根据本文的方面的图19的工程化针织胸罩材料的切出的胸罩前部;FIG. 20 illustrates a cut-out bra front of the engineered knit bra material of FIG. 19 , according to aspects herein;
图21图示了根据本文的方面的组装的工程化针织胸罩的前透视图,该组装的工程化针织胸罩具有预先构造的锁定区和拉伸区;FIG. 21 illustrates a front perspective view of an assembled engineered knit brassiere having pre-configured locking and stretch zones according to aspects herein;
图22图示了根据本文的方面的示例性工程化针织胸罩材料的俯视图,该工程化针织胸罩材料具有对应于示例性测试区的预先构造的锁定区和拉伸区;和22 illustrates a top view of an exemplary engineered knit bra material having pre-configured locking and stretch zones corresponding to exemplary testing zones according to aspects herein; and
图23是描述了根据本文的方面的用于工程化针织胸罩的一个示例的纤维组成和线迹构造的图表。23 is a chart depicting one example fiber composition and stitch configuration for an engineered knit brassiere according to aspects herein.
发明详述Detailed Description of the Invention
具体描述了多个方面的主题以满足法定要求,但是描述本身并不旨在限制本公开的范围。可以设想的是,本公开的主题还可以连同其他现有的或将来的技术以其他方式实施,以包括类似于在本文件中描述的步骤的不同的步骤或步骤的组合。虽然术语“步骤”和/或“框”可以用于表示所使用的方法的不同要素,但是这些术语不应被解释为暗示多个步骤之中或之间的任何特定的顺序,除非并且除了当各个步骤的顺序被明确地陈述时。The subject matter of various aspects is described in detail to meet statutory requirements, but the description itself is not intended to limit the scope of the present disclosure. It is contemplated that the subject matter of the present disclosure may also be implemented in other ways, in conjunction with other existing or future technologies, to include different steps or combinations of steps similar to the steps described in this document. Although the terms "step" and/or "box" may be used to refer to different elements of the method used, these terms should not be interpreted as implying any particular order among or between the multiple steps unless and except when the order of the individual steps is explicitly stated.
本公开总体上涉及工程化胸罩。工程化胸罩可以具有预先构造的锁定区和拉伸区,其中与每个区相关联的锁定或拉伸的量取决于工程化针织和/或编织特征,诸如修改每个区的拉伸性能的具体线迹或构造技术。例如,本文的方面涉及工程化胸罩,该工程化胸罩由针织或编织材料的整体片料形成,并且具有拥有不同的拉伸性能的预先构造的锁定区和拉伸区。多个锁定区和拉伸区可以形成在整体片料中,并且跨过整体片料邻近地隔开。根据一些方面,工程化胸罩从整体片料切割(例如,冲压、取出、分离和/或移除),使得工程化胸罩的不同的区域由整体片料的不同的区形成。例如,可以期望工程化胸罩的胸围和后部区域在穿用者身上提供压缩,同时当工程化胸罩处于穿用构型时允许拉伸,并且因此可以从整体片料的拉伸区切割。可能不期望工程化胸罩的胸部箍带和肩部条带区域具有与胸部和后部区域一样大的拉伸性,并且因此可以从整体片料的锁定区切割。由针织或编织材料的整体片料形成工程化胸罩可以减少结合或缝合点的数量和材料浪费。在一些方面中,工程化胸罩沿其侧部具有两个接缝,同时仍然在不同的区域中提供锁定区和拉伸区,如在下文中更详细地提供的。The present disclosure generally relates to engineered brassieres. Engineered brassieres can have pre-configured locking zones and stretch zones, wherein the amount of locking or stretching associated with each zone depends on engineered knitting and/or weaving features, such as specific stitches or construction techniques that modify the stretch properties of each zone. For example, aspects of this article relate to engineered brassieres that are formed by an integral sheet of knitted or woven material and have pre-configured locking zones and stretch zones with different stretch properties. Multiple locking zones and stretch zones can be formed in the integral sheet and adjacently spaced across the integral sheet. According to some aspects, the engineered brassiere is cut (e.g., stamped, taken out, separated and/or removed) from the integral sheet so that different regions of the engineered brassiere are formed by different regions of the integral sheet. For example, it can be expected that the bust and rear regions of the engineered brassiere provide compression on the wearer while allowing stretching when the engineered brassiere is in a wearing configuration, and therefore can be cut from the stretch zones of the integral sheet. It may not be desirable for the chest cuff and shoulder strap areas of an engineered bra to have as much stretch as the chest and back areas, and therefore can be cut from the locking zone of a unitary piece. Forming an engineered bra from a unitary piece of knitted or woven material can reduce the number of joins or stitching points and material waste. In some aspects, an engineered bra has two seams along its sides, while still providing a locking zone and a stretch zone in different areas, as provided in more detail below.
通过在整个工程化针织或编织胸罩前部的制造中调节一个或更多个针织或编织结构、线迹式样、编织技术和/或纱线选择,可以实现区的不同的拉伸性能,邻近的区之间具有至少一个共同特征(即,具有不同的锁定/拉伸特性的不同的区之间的至少一个“整体”元件)。例如,锁定区A可以包括特定的针织线迹和纱线选择,并且在过渡到邻近的拉伸区B时,特定的针织线迹可以继续,同时所选择的纱线改变为拉伸纱线。在该示例中,无缝材料结构被保持,其中邻近的针织区具有不同的锁定性能和至少一个共同特征(即,特定的针织线迹)。在另一示例中,锁定区A可以包括特定的锁定线迹构造,该锁定线迹构造在拉伸区B中过渡到不同的拉伸线迹构造,同时在邻近的区之间保持至少一根共同纱线。在又一示例中,邻近的区之间的共同特征可以是延伸跨过邻近的区的一致的经编纱线和一致的纬编纱线中的一个或更多个。如本文所使用的,“共同特征”指的是跨过针织或编织材料使用的一致的元件,包括至少两个不同的区的至少一部分,如通过以上示例所说明的。By adjusting one or more knitting or woven structures, stitch patterns, weaving techniques and/or yarn selections throughout the manufacture of the engineered knitted or woven bra front, different stretch properties in zones can be achieved, with adjacent zones having at least one common feature (i.e., at least one "integral" element between different zones with different locking/stretch properties). For example, locking zone A can include a specific knitting stitch and yarn selection, and upon transitioning to adjacent stretch zone B, the specific knitting stitch can continue while the selected yarn is changed to a stretch yarn. In this example, a seamless material structure is maintained wherein adjacent knitted zones have different locking properties and at least one common feature (i.e., a specific knitting stitch). In another example, locking zone A can include a specific locking stitch construction that transitions to a different stretch stitch construction in stretch zone B while maintaining at least one common yarn between adjacent zones. In yet another example, the common feature between adjacent zones can be one or more of a consistent warp knitted yarn and a consistent weft knitted yarn extending across adjacent zones. As used herein, "common features" refer to consistent elements used across a knitted or woven material, including at least a portion of at least two distinct regions, as illustrated by the examples above.
在另外的方面中,区的不同拉伸性能可以通过改变区内的针织或编织结构来实现,诸如构造成在针织或编织材料内提供锁定的针织结构或编织结构。例如,针织结构可以在区内变化,以实现区之间的不同拉伸性能。另外,区的不同拉伸性能可以通过改变区内和/或区之间的纱线类型来实现,诸如基于这些纱线的弹性模量在特定位置的纱线之间交替。“纱线类型”指的是特定纱线的材料组成、股线数量(例如,双股线)、材料形成(例如合股、捻)和/或规格(gauge)(例如,旦尼尔、特克斯、直径等),诸如细规格聚酯纱线或大规格尼龙纱线。在一个示例中,特定胸罩区域中的纱线类型可以对应于胸罩结构内的特定功能,诸如在拉伸区B的至少一部分内针织或编织的具体纱线类型,以在胸罩的罩杯区域内提供特定的支撑水平、材料感觉和/或外观。在一些方面中,在拉伸区B内使用的纱线类型可以包括轻量级、高拉伸、弹性纱线或多种纱线的组合,其提供具有分区拉伸特性的所得材料性能。类似地,不同的纱线类型可以在不同的胸罩区域内被工程化,并且对应于不同胸罩结构的特定功能,诸如在锁定区A的至少一部分内被针织或编织的具体纱线类型。在一些方面中,锁定区A内使用的纱线类型可以包括厚重的、低拉伸性的非弹性纱线(即,“硬”纱线),或者多种纱线的组合,其提供具有分区锁定特性的所得材料性能。In another aspect, the different stretch properties of a zone can be achieved by changing the knitted or woven structure in the zone, such as being configured to provide a locked knitted structure or woven structure in a knitted or woven material. For example, the knitted structure can be changed in the zone to achieve the different stretch properties between zones. In addition, the different stretch properties of a zone can be achieved by changing the yarn type in the zone and/or between zones, such as alternating between yarns at specific positions based on the elastic modulus of these yarns. "Yarn type" refers to the material composition, number of strands (e.g., two-strand yarn), material formation (e.g., plying, twisting) and/or gauge (e.g., denier, tex, diameter, etc.) of a specific yarn, such as fine-gauge polyester yarn or large-gauge nylon yarn. In one example, the yarn type in a specific bra zone can correspond to a specific function in the bra structure, such as a specific yarn type knitted or woven in at least a portion of stretch zone B, to provide a specific support level, material feel and/or appearance in the cup area of the bra. In some aspects, the yarn types used in stretch zone B can include lightweight, high-stretch, elastic yarns, or a combination of yarns that provide a resulting material property with zoned stretch characteristics. Similarly, different yarn types can be engineered in different bra regions and corresponding to specific functions of different bra structures, such as a specific yarn type knitted or woven within at least a portion of locking zone A. In some aspects, the yarn types used in locking zone A can include heavyweight, low-stretch, non-elastic yarns (i.e., "hard" yarns), or a combination of yarns that provide a resulting material property with zoned locking characteristics.
此外,针织或编织材料的总体弹性模量可以通过具体的针织线迹或编织技术来改变,该针织线迹或编织技术使材料纤维在一个或更多个方向(即,宽度方向、长度方向或两者)上的伸长最小化。术语“伸长”用于指纱线沿着纱线的中央纵向轴线从第一长度拉伸到大于第一长度的第二长度。例如,锁定纱线可以被限定为限制伸长的最大量,诸如具有小于20%的伸长的锁定纱线。在另一示例中,拉伸纱线可以被限定为在最大伸长的范围内拉伸,诸如具有最大伸长在50%至70%之间的拉伸纱线。在一个方面中,拉伸纱线可以被表征为具有小于60%的最大伸长。在另外的方面中,工程化胸罩内多个区的不同拉伸性能可以对应于单独的纱线布置、一体式针织或编织结构,和/或用于在至少一个区中产生锁定和在邻近的区中产生拉伸特性的另外的一体式针织或编织方面。In addition, the overall elastic modulus of a knitted or woven material can be altered by a specific knitting stitch or weaving technique that minimizes the elongation of the material fibers in one or more directions (i.e., widthwise, lengthwise, or both). The term "elongation" is used to refer to a yarn being stretched from a first length to a second length greater than the first length along the central longitudinal axis of the yarn. For example, a locking yarn can be defined as a maximum amount of elongation that is limited, such as a locking yarn with an elongation of less than 20%. In another example, a stretch yarn can be defined as stretching within the range of maximum elongation, such as a stretch yarn with a maximum elongation between 50% and 70%. In one aspect, a stretch yarn can be characterized as having a maximum elongation of less than 60%. In another aspect, the different tensile properties of multiple zones within an engineered bra can correspond to separate yarn arrangements, one-piece knitted or woven structures, and/or other one-piece knitted or woven aspects for generating locking in at least one zone and generating stretch properties in adjacent zones.
根据一些方面,工程化针织或编织胸罩可以总体上被表征为包括至少一个锁定区,该锁定区邻近工程化到材料中的至少一个拉伸区,其中邻近的区包括无缝构型中的至少一个共同特征。在一个方面中,该工程化胸罩包括胸罩的条带区域和胸部箍带区域中的锁定区,以及条带区域和胸部箍带区域之间的罩杯区域中的可变拉伸区。条带区域和/或胸部箍带区域中的锁定的量可以使用针织或编织结构(诸如锁定区内使用的具体的线迹式样或编织技术),针对期望的胸罩构型进行调节。此外,锁定的量可以限制到单个或多个方向上,诸如胸罩的条带区域中的纵向锁定,以及胸部箍带区域中的纵向锁定和横向锁定两者,如下文更详细讨论的。According to some aspects, engineered knitted or woven brassieres can be generally characterized as comprising at least one locking zone, and this locking zone is adjacent to at least one stretch zone engineered into the material, and wherein adjacent zone comprises at least one common feature in seamless configuration.In one aspect, this engineered brassiere comprises the locking zone in the strip area and the chest cuff area of the brassiere, and the variable stretch zone in the cup area between the strip area and the chest cuff area.The amount of locking in the strip area and/or the chest cuff area can be regulated for desired brassiere configuration using knitted or woven structure (such as the specific stitch pattern or weaving technology used in the locking zone).In addition, the amount of locking can be limited to single or multiple directions, such as the longitudinal locking in the strip area of the brassiere, and both longitudinal locking and lateral locking in the chest cuff area, as discussed in more detail below.
在一些方面中,插入锁定区中的特定纱线可以被针织或编织以提供特定的特性(例如,横向锁定),该特性具有最小化所得到的胸罩内的拉伸并抵抗胸罩的锁定区部分的伸长的稳定效果。在另外的方面中,胸罩的拉伸区内的拉伸的量可以对应于每个区的工程化特征,诸如使用具体的针织或编织技术、整合特定纱线组成和/或包括针织或编织到胸罩的材料中的具体的支撑结构或功能特征而工程化的工程化特征。例如,拉伸区的工程化特征可以包括在拉伸区的至少一部分内使用的拉伸针织线迹,而锁定区的工程化特征可以包括在锁定区的至少一部分内使用的锁定针织线迹。如本文中所使用的,“工程化特征”可以包括用于制造工程化胸罩材料的任何纱线相关的、针织相关的或编织相关的方面。如此,工程化胸罩材料内的工程化特征之间改变的一个示例是拉伸线迹和锁定线迹之间的改变。在另外的示例中,工程化特征可以与胸罩材料的拉伸区和锁定区之间的纱线张力上的改变相关联。在另一方面中,针织行的至少一部分内的线迹构造可以提供特定的线迹间距、线迹长度、基于线迹构造的纱线的长度和/或纱线张力,其工程化胸罩内至少一个拉伸区或锁定区的至少一个特征。In some aspects, specific yarns inserted into the locking zones can be knitted or woven to provide specific properties (e.g., lateral locking) that have a stabilizing effect of minimizing the resulting stretch within the bra and resisting elongation of the locking zone portion of the bra. In other aspects, the amount of stretch within the stretch zones of the bra can correspond to the engineered features of each zone, such as engineered features engineered using specific knitting or weaving techniques, integrating specific yarn compositions, and/or including specific support structures or functional features knitted or woven into the material of the bra. For example, the engineered features of the stretch zone can include stretch knit stitches used within at least a portion of the stretch zone, while the engineered features of the locking zone can include locking knit stitches used within at least a portion of the locking zone. As used herein, "engineered features" can include any yarn-related, knit-related, or weaving-related aspects used to manufacture engineered bra materials. Thus, an example of a change between engineered features within an engineered bra material is a change between stretch stitches and locking stitches. In another example, the engineered features can be associated with a change in yarn tension between the stretch zone and the locking zone of the bra material. In another aspect, the stitch construction within at least a portion of a knit row can provide a specific stitch spacing, stitch length, length of yarn based on the stitch construction, and/or yarn tension that engineers at least one feature of at least one stretch zone or lock zone within a bra.
在一些方面中,工程化胸罩的工程化特征可以包括针织或编织构造中的一个或更多个变化。例如,针织胸罩的工程化特征可以包括短浮纱、长浮纱、编链线迹(pillarstitch)、链式线迹、邻近的线迹之间的可变张力、邻近的针织行之间的可变张力、织入另外的纱线、针织速度增加、针织速度降低或诸如此类的组合。如此,工程化胸罩的工程化特征可以包括“锁定线迹”,其通过例如短浮纱、或者限制工程化材料的拉伸的另外的/可替代的工程化锁定特征来表征。在另一示例中,“拉伸线迹”可以被表征为包括长浮纱、或者允许工程化材料的拉伸的另外的/可替代的工程化拉伸特征。在另外的方面中,可以在整个工程化材料针织中调节锁定线迹、拉伸线迹、纱线张力、纱线长度、线迹间距、线迹针比(stitch-to-needle ratio)、纱线重叠、跳针或另外的构造技术或材料效果。In some aspects, the engineered features of an engineered brassiere can include one or more variations in a knitted or woven construction. For example, the engineered features of a knitted brassiere can include short floats, long floats, pillar stitches, chain stitches, variable tension between adjacent stitches, variable tension between adjacent knitting rows, weaving in additional yarns, knitting speed increases, knitting speed decreases, or a combination of the like. In this way, the engineered features of an engineered brassiere can include "locking stitches," which are characterized by, for example, short floats, or additional/alternative engineered locking features that limit the stretching of an engineered material. In another example, "stretch stitches" can be characterized as additional/alternative engineered stretch features that include long floats, or allow the stretching of an engineered material. In other aspects, locking stitches, stretch stitches, yarn tension, yarn length, stitch spacing, stitch-to-needle ratio, yarn overlap, skip stitches, or additional construction techniques or material effects can be adjusted throughout the knitting of the engineered material.
在另外的示例中,胸罩的拉伸区内的拉伸的量可以通过在拉伸区内的具体位置处包括具体的一体式结构来控制。一体地针织或编织到工程化胸罩材料中的一体式结构的示例包括一体式通道结构(例如,钢圈通道)、一体式口袋结构、一体式调节特征、一体式条带部件、一体式图形结构(例如,纱线改变)或并入到工程化材料中并对工程化胸罩的至少一部分的拉伸模量具有影响的其他一体式纺织元件。这样的一体式结构可以包括针织或编织到工程化材料中的提花结构,诸如将另外或可替代的纱线插入到不同的位置中以形成图形的提花针织结构,从而影响材料拉伸模量。例如,如下面参考图7更详细地讨论的,提花结构可以用于将不同的纱线插入到不同的位置中,以在胸罩内形成图形元素,诸如围绕罩杯和条带区定向的图形元素,该图形元素影响每个区内的总体模量。在一些方面中,胸罩的拉伸区的一部分内的拉伸和对应的压缩/支撑的量可以使用一体式结构来改变,诸如基于用于接纳钢圈的通道结构和/或用于接纳衬里的罩杯口袋的拉伸上的改变。In another example, the amount of stretch within the stretch zone of the bra can be controlled by including specific integral structures at specific locations within the stretch zone. Examples of integral structures integrally knitted or woven into the engineered bra material include integral channel structures (e.g., underwire channels), integral pocket structures, integral adjustment features, integral strap components, integral graphic structures (e.g., yarn changes), or other integral textile elements incorporated into the engineered material and having an impact on the tensile modulus of at least a portion of the engineered bra. Such integral structures can include jacquard structures knitted or woven into the engineered material, such as jacquard knit structures that insert additional or alternative yarns into different locations to form a graphic, thereby affecting the material tensile modulus. For example, as discussed in more detail below with reference to FIG7 , a jacquard structure can be used to insert different yarns into different locations to form graphic elements within the bra, such as graphic elements oriented around the cup and strap zones, which affect the overall modulus within each zone. In some aspects, the amount of stretch and corresponding compression/support within a portion of the stretch zone of a bra can be varied using integral structures, such as based on changes in the stretch of the channel structure for receiving the underwire and/or the cup pockets for receiving the liner.
这样的插入纱线或一体式结构可以应用在针织或编织的整个行上,或者在其他方面中,可以并入到单行的特定部分或多个离散部分中,这可以称为一体式结构的“分区”布置。如此,变化的纱线组成和工程化支撑/功能特征可以跨过经编针织或编织的行在横向方向上以及在垂直于横向方向的方向上沿着针织或编织材料的宽度动态地改变。例如,经编方向上的纵向纱线改变可以沿着工程化材料的y轴提供区带状分区改变,而同时,针织或编织结构的横向改变可以提供胸罩材料内沿着x轴的锁定或拉伸特征的另外的分区改变。如此,一体式结构可以相对于相应的支撑区定位在预先构造的位置处(例如,在工程化材料的纬编方向和经编方向内的特定位置处)。Such inserted yarns or unitary structures can be applied across an entire row of knit or braid, or, in other aspects, can be incorporated into specific portions of a single row or multiple discrete portions, which can be referred to as a "zoned" arrangement of the unitary structure. In this way, varying yarn compositions and engineered support/functional features can be dynamically altered across the rows of warp knit or braid in the transverse direction and in a direction perpendicular to the transverse direction along the width of the knit or braid material. For example, longitudinal yarn changes in the warp direction can provide zonal zoning changes along the y-axis of the engineered material, while at the same time, lateral changes in the knit or braid structure can provide additional zoning changes in locking or stretching features along the x-axis within the bra material. In this way, the unitary structure can be positioned at pre-configured locations relative to corresponding support zones (e.g., at specific locations within the weft and warp directions of the engineered material).
在另外的方面中,制造工程化针织或编织胸罩的方法可以在工程化胸罩材料的整个长度或整个宽度上使用特定的纱线类型(基于所使用的针织或编织技术),使得纱线选择对应于锁定区中的一系列针织或编织行或拉伸区中的一系列针织或编织行(即,纵向或横向上的纱线组成的区带)。除了区带状纱线组成之外,一体式针织或编织结构中的分区改变可能改变每个锁定区和每个拉伸区内的分区拉伸和/或分区锁定特性。例如,如从纱线特性(即,“工程化特性”是拉伸纱线选择)推导出的,具有在工程化材料的整个宽度上承载的拉伸纱线的拉伸区可以具有跨越拉伸区的宽度的特定拉伸特性,同时在与一体式结构相关联的分区位置中具有特定的拉伸特性。换句话说,虽然工程化拉伸纱线可以继续跨过拉伸区,但是由一体式针织或编织结构提供的另外的特性可能会影响在特定拉伸区中的胸罩的一部分。在又一个示例中,用于在特定锁定区中产生锁定的工程化锁定纱线(即,锁定纱线选择的“工程化特征”)当被承载在整个锁定区上时,可以进一步提供另外的锁定特性,该另外的锁定特性对应于影响锁定区的一部分的特定的一体式针织或编织结构。In another aspect, a method of manufacturing an engineered knitted or woven bra can use a specific yarn type across the entire length or width of the engineered bra material (based on the knitting or weaving technique used) such that the yarn selection corresponds to a series of knitted or woven rows in the locking zone or a series of knitted or woven rows in the stretch zone (i.e., a band of yarn composition in the longitudinal or transverse direction). In addition to the zonal yarn composition, zonal changes in the unitary knitted or woven structure may change the zoned stretch and/or zoned locking properties within each locking zone and each stretch zone. For example, as derived from the yarn properties (i.e., the "engineered property" is the stretch yarn selection), a stretch zone having a stretch yarn carried across the entire width of the engineered material can have specific stretch properties across the width of the stretch zone while having specific stretch properties in the zoned locations associated with the unitary structure. In other words, while the engineered stretch yarn can continue across the stretch zone, the additional properties provided by the unitary knitted or woven structure may affect a portion of the bra in a specific stretch zone. In yet another example, the engineered locking yarn used to create locking in a particular locking zone (i.e., the "engineered features" of the locking yarn selection) when carried across the entire locking zone can further provide additional locking characteristics corresponding to the specific integral knitted or woven structure affecting a portion of the locking zone.
因此,对应于工程化纱线类型和/或一体式结构布置的一个或更多个分区拉伸特性可以对应于胸罩的特定部分的特定功能(例如,胸罩罩杯区域内的拉伸区可以包括基于在特定位置处针织或编织的一体式结构的增强拉伸),同时保持跨过胸罩的宽度的共同拉伸纱线组成(即,即使拉伸区的一部分可以包括一体式结构)。例如,可以在整个锁定区上针织或编织相同的纱线,且具有改变该特定区的一部分的锁定性能的线迹构造或编织技术上的改变。类似地,相同的纱线可以贯穿整个拉伸区针织或编织,且具有改变该特定区的一部分的拉伸性能的线迹构造或编织技术上的改变。如这里使用的,一体式结构的分区或有机布置指的是在工程化材料的特定部分中针织或编织的一体式结构,诸如在不跨越针织或编织材料的整个宽度的情况下在特定位置处提供具体功能的分区一体式结构。Thus, one or more zoned stretch properties corresponding to an engineered yarn type and/or unitary structure arrangement can correspond to a specific function in a specific portion of a bra (e.g., a stretch zone within a bra cup area can include enhanced stretch based on a unitary structure knitted or woven at a specific location), while maintaining a common stretch yarn composition across the width of the bra (i.e., even though a portion of the stretch zone can include a unitary structure). For example, the same yarn can be knitted or woven throughout the entire locking zone, with a change in stitch construction or weaving technique that changes the locking properties of a portion of that specific zone. Similarly, the same yarn can be knitted or woven throughout the entire stretch zone, with a change in stitch construction or weaving technique that changes the stretch properties of a portion of that specific zone. As used herein, a zoned or organic arrangement of a unitary structure refers to a unitary structure knitted or woven in a specific portion of an engineered material, such as a zoned unitary structure that provides a specific function at a specific location without spanning the entire width of the knitted or woven material.
本文的方面可以进一步涉及一种制造工程化针织或编织胸罩的方法。该方法可以包括例如针织工程化针织胸罩材料,该工程化针织胸罩材料具有在整个工程化针织胸罩上提供具有期望支撑和功能的目标锁定区的一体式针织结构和工程化特征。在另外的方面中,该方法可以包括编织工程化编织胸罩材料,该工程化编织胸罩材料具有在整个工程化编织胸罩中提供具有期望支撑和功能的目标锁定区的一体式编织结构和工程化特征。该方法还可以包括从针织或编织材料切割工程化胸罩,使得胸部箍带和肩部条带区域从锁定区切割并且胸围和后部区域从拉伸区切割。在一个方面中,该方法可以包括在横向或纵向定向上从针织或编织材料切割工程化胸罩。如此,取决于用于产生工程化针织或编织材料的针织机或编织机的类型,锁定区和拉伸区可以用特定方向上承载的纱线针织或编织(例如,根据针织机或编织机的规格/能力)。例如,在经编针织机中,在经编针织方向上的区带状纱线构型可以提供跨过工程化针织胸罩的长度或宽度承载的锁定区和拉伸区,并且可以对应于由经编针织机在特定位置处使用的特定纱线。在一个示例中,如图1中所示出的,工程化胸罩式样可以从工程化材料以交叉纹理定向切割出来,使得经编纱线的区带状定向沿着工程化胸罩前部的主体形成锁定和拉伸性能的横向区带。在另一示例中,工程化胸罩式样可以沿着材料纹理切割出来,且具有在垂直于胸罩箍带的方向上形成竖直区带的经编纱线的定向。Aspects of this paper may further relate to a method for manufacturing an engineered knitted or woven brassiere. The method may include, for example, knitting an engineered knitted brassiere material having an integral knitted structure and engineered features for providing a target locking zone with desired support and function over the entire engineered knitted brassiere. In a further aspect, the method may include weaving an engineered woven brassiere material having an integral knitted structure and engineered features for providing a target locking zone with desired support and function over the entire engineered knitted brassiere. The method may also include cutting an engineered brassiere from a knitted or woven material so that the chest cuff and shoulder strap areas are cut from the locking zone and the bust and rear areas are cut from the stretch zone. In one aspect, the method may include cutting an engineered brassiere from a knitted or woven material in a transverse or longitudinal orientation. Thus, depending on the type of knitting machine or braiding machine used to produce the engineered knitted or woven material, the locking zone and the stretch zone can be knitted or woven with yarns carried in a specific direction (e.g., according to the specifications/capacity of the knitting machine or braiding machine). For example, in a warp knitting machine, a zoned yarn configuration in the warp knitting direction can provide locked-in and stretched zones carried across the length or width of an engineered knitted bra and can correspond to specific yarns used at specific locations by the warp knitting machine. In one example, as shown in FIG1 , an engineered bra pattern can be cut from an engineered material with a cross-grain orientation such that the zoned orientation of the warp knitted yarns forms lateral zones of locked-in and stretched properties along the bulk of the engineered bra front. In another example, an engineered bra pattern can be cut along the grain of the material with the warp knitted yarns oriented to form vertical zones perpendicular to the bra straps.
该方法还可以包括在左接缝处和在右接缝处联结工程化胸罩的前部和后部的下侧边缘。另外的步骤可以包括修整或模制胸罩,诸如施加覆盖特征或热处理拉伸罩杯区域的至少一部分,如下文更详细地提供的。如本文中所使用的,“覆盖”特征是指放置在包括工程化胸罩的材料的表面处并通过处理过程附连到工程化胸罩的特征。The method may also include joining the lower side edges of the front and back of the engineered brassiere at a left seam and at a right seam. Additional steps may include finishing or molding the brassiere, such as applying a covering feature or heat treating at least a portion of the stretched cup area, as provided in more detail below. As used herein, a "covering" feature refers to a feature that is placed on the surface of the material comprising the engineered brassiere and attached to the engineered brassiere by a processing process.
因此,一个方面涉及一种包括多个工程化支撑区的工程化胸罩,其中多个支撑区中的每一个具有在预定范围内的弹性模量值,并且其中多个支撑区中的每一个包括修改相应的支撑区的至少一部分的弹性模量值的一个或更多个工程化特征。在一个示例中,用于弹性模量值的预定范围可以包括3牛顿(N)至10牛顿之间的弹性模量,而在另一示例中,弹性模量的预定范围可以在5牛顿和8牛顿之间。另外地,在示例性方面中,工程化胸罩包括共同纱线,该共同纱线包括延伸跨过多个支撑区的一致的经编纱线和/或一致的纬编纱线中的一个或更多个,使得第一支撑区的一个或更多个工程化特征中的至少一个包括与邻近第一支撑区的第二支撑区的一个或更多个工程化特征中的至少一个相同的共同纱线。Thus, one aspect relates to an engineered brassiere comprising a plurality of engineered support zones, wherein each of the plurality of support zones has an elastic modulus value within a predetermined range, and wherein each of the plurality of support zones includes one or more engineered features that modify the elastic modulus value of at least a portion of the corresponding support zone. In one example, the predetermined range for the elastic modulus value can include an elastic modulus between 3 Newtons (N) and 10 Newtons, while in another example, the predetermined range of elastic modulus can be between 5 Newtons and 8 Newtons. Additionally, in an exemplary aspect, the engineered brassiere includes a common yarn comprising one or more of a consistent warp knitted yarn and/or a consistent weft knitted yarn extending across the plurality of support zones, such that at least one of the one or more engineered features of a first support zone comprises the same common yarn as at least one of the one or more engineered features of a second support zone adjacent to the first support zone.
在另一方面中,工程化胸罩包括第一支撑区,该第一支撑区具有在预定范围内的第一弹性模量值,该第一支撑区位于胸罩的下前部部分(例如,当处于穿用构型时的胸罩的下方和前方位置)处。工程化胸罩还包括第二支撑区,该第二支撑区具有在预定范围内的第二弹性模量值,该第二支撑区位于胸罩的中间前部部分处并且邻近于第一支撑区。在另外的方面中,工程化胸罩包括具有在预定范围内的第三弹性模量值的第三支撑区,该第三支撑区位于胸罩的上前部部分(例如,当处于穿用构型时胸罩的上部和前部位置)处并且邻近于第二支撑区,其中第一支撑区、第二支撑区和第三支撑区中的每一个包括一个或更多个工程化特征,该一个或更多个工程化特征修改相应的支撑区的弹性模量值,并且进一步地,其中共同纱线延伸跨过第一支撑区、第二支撑区和第三支撑区。In another aspect, an engineered brassiere comprises a first support zone having a first elastic modulus value within a predetermined range, the first support zone being located at a lower front portion of the brassiere (e.g., a lower and front position of the brassiere when in a wearing configuration). The engineered brassiere also comprises a second support zone having a second elastic modulus value within a predetermined range, the second support zone being located at a middle front portion of the brassiere and adjacent to the first support zone. In another aspect, the engineered brassiere comprises a third support zone having a third elastic modulus value within a predetermined range, the third support zone being located at an upper front portion of the brassiere (e.g., an upper and front position of the brassiere when in a wearing configuration) and adjacent to the second support zone, wherein each of the first support zone, the second support zone, and the third support zone comprises one or more engineered features that modify the elastic modulus value of the corresponding support zone, and further, wherein a common yarn extends across the first support zone, the second support zone, and the third support zone.
根据另一个方面,该工程化胸罩包括具有在预定范围内的第一弹性模量值的第一支撑区,以及邻近第一支撑区定向的第二支撑区,所述第二支撑区具有在预定范围内的第二弹性模量值,其中第二弹性模量值大于第一弹性模量值。工程化胸罩还包括邻近第二支撑区定向的第三支撑区,所述第三支撑区具有在预定范围内的第三弹性模量值。在示例中,第三弹性模量值与第一弹性模量值相同,其中第一支撑区、第二支撑区和第三支撑区的弹性模量对应于相应的第一支撑区、第二支撑区和第三支撑区的工程化针织特征或工程化编织特征。According to another aspect, the engineered brassiere includes a first support zone having a first elastic modulus value within a predetermined range, and a second support zone oriented adjacent to the first support zone, the second support zone having a second elastic modulus value within a predetermined range, wherein the second elastic modulus value is greater than the first elastic modulus value. The engineered brassiere also includes a third support zone oriented adjacent to the second support zone, the third support zone having a third elastic modulus value within the predetermined range. In examples, the third elastic modulus value is the same as the first elastic modulus value, wherein the elastic moduli of the first, second, and third support zones correspond to the engineered knit features or engineered woven features of the respective first, second, and third support zones.
在一些方面中,工程化胸罩包括第一针织区,该第一针织区沿着第一方向呈现预定范围内的第一弹性模量,并且沿着第二方向呈现预定范围内的第二弹性模量,其中第一针织区包括形成一对工程化胸罩条带的第一多根经编针织纱线。工程化胸罩还包括第二针织区,该第二针织区沿着第一方向呈现预定范围内的第三弹性模量,并且沿第二方向呈现预定范围内的第四弹性模量,其中第二针织区邻近第一针织区并且包括形成工程化胸罩罩杯的第二多根经编针织纱线,其中第二多根纱线与第一多根纱线互锁。另外,工程化胸罩包括第三针织区,该第三针织区沿着第一方向呈现预定范围内的第五弹性模量,并且沿着第二方向呈现预定范围内的第六弹性模量,其中第三针织区邻近第二针织区并且包括第三多根经编针织纱线和至少一根衬垫纱线(inlaid yarn),所述第三多根经编针织纱线和所述至少一根衬垫纱线形成工程化胸罩箍带,其中第三多根纱线与第二多根纱线互锁。In some aspects, an engineered brassiere includes a first knit region exhibiting a first modulus of elasticity within a predetermined range along a first direction and a second modulus of elasticity within a predetermined range along a second direction, wherein the first knit region includes a first plurality of warp knit yarns forming a pair of engineered brassiere straps. The engineered brassiere also includes a second knit region exhibiting a third modulus of elasticity within a predetermined range along the first direction and a fourth modulus of elasticity within a predetermined range along the second direction, wherein the second knit region is adjacent to the first knit region and includes a second plurality of warp knit yarns forming cups of the engineered brassiere, wherein the second plurality of yarns is interlocked with the first plurality of yarns. Additionally, the engineered brassiere includes a third knit region exhibiting a fifth modulus of elasticity within a predetermined range along the first direction and a sixth modulus of elasticity within a predetermined range along the second direction, wherein the third knit region is adjacent to the second knit region and includes a third plurality of warp knit yarns and at least one inlaid yarn, the third plurality of warp knit yarns and the at least one inlaid yarn forming an engineered brassiere cuff, wherein the third plurality of yarns are interlocked with the second plurality of yarns.
在一些方面中,另外的工程化胸罩包括针织条带区,该针织条带区包括具有条带宽度和条带长度的一对胸罩条带,其中该条带区包括多根条带区纱线,该多根条带区纱线在第一方向上用条带非锁定规格针织并且在第二方向上用条带锁定规格针织,该条带宽度具有大于条带长度的弹性模量的弹性模量。该工程化胸罩还包括针织罩杯区,该针织罩杯区包括在第一方向上用罩杯非锁定规格针织的多根罩杯区纱线和在第二方向上用罩杯非锁定规格针织的多根罩杯区纱线,其中多根条带区纱线中的纱线与多根罩杯区纱线中的纱线互锁。另外,该工程化胸罩包括针织胸部箍带区,该针织胸部箍带区包括在第一方向上用胸部箍带锁定规格针织的并且在第二方向上用胸部箍带锁定规格针织的多根胸部箍带区纱线,其中多根胸部箍带区纱线中的纱线与多根罩杯区纱线中的纱线互锁,并且进一步地,其中多根胸部箍带区纱线包括衬垫硬纱线,该衬垫硬纱线最小化相对于罩杯区在胸部箍带区内的伸长,其中多根条带区纱线、多根罩杯区纱线和多根胸部箍带纱线中的每个包括具有第一单丝旦尼尔(DPF)率的面纱和具有低于第一DPF率的第二DPF率的背纱,其中面纱包括1×1垫纱结构,背纱包括1×3垫纱结构,并且在每个针织区内以编链线迹构型针织氨纶纱线。In some aspects, another engineered brassiere includes a knitted strap region comprising a pair of bra straps having a strap width and a strap length, wherein the strap region comprises a plurality of strap region yarns knitted in a first direction with a strap non-locking gauge and in a second direction with a strap locking gauge, the strap width having an elastic modulus greater than the elastic modulus of the strap length. The engineered brassiere also includes a knitted cup region comprising a plurality of cup region yarns knitted in the first direction with a cup non-locking gauge and a plurality of cup region yarns knitted in the second direction with a cup non-locking gauge, wherein yarns in the plurality of strap region yarns interlock with yarns in the plurality of cup region yarns. Additionally, the engineered brassiere includes a knitted chest cuff region comprising a plurality of chest cuff region yarns knitted in a first direction with a chest cuff lock gauge and in a second direction with a chest cuff lock gauge, wherein yarns in the plurality of chest cuff region yarns are interlocked with yarns in the plurality of cup region yarns, and further wherein the plurality of chest cuff region yarns include a padding hard yarn that minimizes elongation in the chest cuff region relative to the cup region, wherein each of the plurality of strap region yarns, the plurality of cup region yarns, and the plurality of chest cuff yarns includes a face yarn having a first denier per filament (DPF) ratio and a back yarn having a second DPF ratio lower than the first DPF ratio, wherein the face yarn includes a 1×1 inlay yarn construction, the back yarn includes a 1×3 inlay yarn construction, and the spandex yarn is knitted in a chain stitch configuration in each knitted region.
如此,本公开考虑了各种工程化胸罩构型,其具有相对于彼此的锁定区和/或拉伸区,并且在一些情况下,具有基于工程化胸罩的针织构造的不同的锁定和/或拉伸特性的方向。每个拉伸区内的变化可以通过诸如材料选择、制造工艺(例如,针织特征、编织特征、衬垫特征)、构造技术(例如,针织线迹选择/位置、衬垫纱线插入点)等的各种技术来调节。附图和相关讨论提供了关于本文所考虑的各种工程化胸罩构型的另外的细节。另外,尽管图示为提供跨越区带状构型中的材料的宽度的锁定区和/或拉伸区,但是可以预期,工程化胸罩可以包括锁定区和/或拉伸区的另外或可替代的分区布置。Thus, the present disclosure contemplates various engineered bra configurations having locking zones and/or stretch zones relative to each other, and in some cases, with directions of different locking and/or stretch properties based on the knitted construction of the engineered bra. The variations within each stretch zone can be adjusted by various techniques such as material selection, manufacturing process (e.g., knitting features, weaving features, padding features), construction technology (e.g., knitting stitch selection/position, padding yarn insertion points), etc. The accompanying drawings and related discussions provide additional details about the various engineered bra configurations contemplated herein. Additionally, although illustrated as providing locking zones and/or stretch zones that span the width of the material in a band-like configuration, it is contemplated that an engineered bra may include additional or alternative zoning arrangements of locking zones and/or stretch zones.
因此,在一个方面中,工程化胸罩包括:第一针织区,该第一针织区沿着第一方向呈现预定范围内的第一弹性模量并且沿着第二方向呈现预定范围内的第二弹性模量,所述第一针织区包括形成一对工程化胸罩条带的第一多根经编针织纱线;第二针织区,该第二针织区沿着第一方向呈现预定范围内的第三弹性模量并且沿着第二方向呈现预定范围内的第四弹性模量,所述第二针织区邻近第一针织区并且包括形成工程化胸罩罩杯的第二多根经编针织纱线,其中第二多根纱线与第一多根纱线互锁;以及第三针织区,该第三针织区沿着第一方向呈现预定范围内的第五弹性模量并且沿着第二方向呈现预定范围内的第六弹性模量,所述第三针织区邻近第二针织区并且包括第三多根经编针织纱线和至少一根衬垫纱线,所述第三多根经编针织纱线和所述至少一根衬垫纱线形成工程化胸罩箍带,其中第三多根纱线与第二多根纱线互锁。Thus, in one aspect, an engineered brassiere comprises: a first knit region exhibiting a first modulus of elasticity within a predetermined range along a first direction and a second modulus of elasticity within a predetermined range along a second direction, the first knit region comprising a first plurality of warp knit yarns forming a pair of engineered brassiere straps; a second knit region exhibiting a third modulus of elasticity within a predetermined range along the first direction and a fourth modulus of elasticity within a predetermined range along the second direction, the second knit region being adjacent to the first knit region and comprising a second plurality of warp knit yarns forming an engineered brassiere cup, wherein the second plurality of yarns is interlocked with the first plurality of yarns; and a third knit region exhibiting a fifth modulus of elasticity within a predetermined range along the first direction and a sixth modulus of elasticity within a predetermined range along the second direction, the third knit region being adjacent to the second knit region and comprising a third plurality of warp knit yarns and at least one spacer yarn, the third plurality of warp knit yarns and the at least one spacer yarn forming an engineered brassiere cuff, wherein the third plurality of yarns is interlocked with the second plurality of yarns.
在另一方面中,工程化胸罩包括:针织条带区,该针织条带区包括具有条带宽度和条带长度的一对胸罩条带,其中条带区包括多根条带区纱线,该多根条带区纱线在第一方向上用条带非锁定规格针织并且在第二方向上用条带锁定规格针织,该条带宽度具有大于条带长度的弹性模量的弹性模量;针织罩杯区,该针织罩杯区包括多根罩杯区纱线,该多根罩杯区纱线在第一方向上用罩杯非锁定规格针织并且在第二方向上用罩杯非锁定规格针织,其中多根条带区纱线中的纱线与多根罩杯区纱线中的纱线互锁;以及针织胸部箍带区,该针织胸部箍带区包括在第一方向上用胸部箍带锁定规格针织的并且在第二方向上用胸部箍带锁定规格针织的多根胸部箍带区纱线,其中多根胸部箍带区纱线中的纱线与多根罩杯区纱线中的纱线互锁,并且进一步地,其中多根胸部箍带区纱线包括衬垫硬纱线,该衬垫硬纱线最小化相对于罩杯区在胸部箍带区内的伸长,其中多根条带区纱线、多根罩杯区纱线和多根胸部箍带纱线中的每个包括具有第一单丝旦尼尔(DPF)率的面纱和具有低于第一DPF比的第二DPF率的背纱,其中面纱包括1×1垫纱结构,背纱包括1×3垫纱结构,并且在每个针织区内以编链线迹构型针织氨纶纱线。In another aspect, an engineered brassiere comprises: a knitted strap region comprising a pair of bra straps having a strap width and a strap length, wherein the strap region comprises a plurality of strap region yarns knitted in a first direction with a strap non-locking gauge and in a second direction with a strap locking gauge, the strap width having a modulus of elasticity greater than the modulus of elasticity of the strap length; a knitted cup region comprising a plurality of cup region yarns knitted in a first direction with a cup non-locking gauge and in a second direction with a cup non-locking gauge, wherein yarns in the plurality of strap region yarns interlock with yarns in the plurality of cup region yarns; and a knitted chest cuff region comprising a plurality of strap region yarns knitted in a first direction with a strap non-locking gauge and in a second direction with a cup non-locking gauge. A plurality of chest cuff region yarns knitted with a chest cuff locking gauge in an upward direction and knitted with a chest cuff locking gauge in a second direction, wherein yarns in the plurality of chest cuff region yarns interlock with yarns in the plurality of cup region yarns, and further wherein the plurality of chest cuff region yarns include a padding hard yarn that minimizes elongation in the chest cuff region relative to the cup region, wherein each of the plurality of strap region yarns, the plurality of cup region yarns, and the plurality of chest cuff yarns includes a face yarn having a first denier per filament (DPF) ratio and a back yarn having a second DPF ratio lower than the first DPF ratio, wherein the face yarn includes a 1×1 inlay structure and the back yarn includes a 1×3 inlay structure, and a spandex yarn is knitted in a chain stitch configuration in each knit region.
在另一示例中,工程化胸罩包括:条带区,其具有多根条带区纱线,该多根条带区纱线在工程化胸罩中被经编针织以在第一方向上提供第一拉伸模量并且在第二方向上提供第二拉伸模量,所述多根条带区纱线包括前部纱线组成和后部纱线组成;罩杯区,该罩杯区具有多根罩杯区纱线,该多根罩杯区纱线在工程化胸罩中被经编针织以在第一方向上提供第三拉伸模量并且在第二方向上提供第四拉伸模量,所述多根罩杯区纱线包括1×1垫纱的前部纱线组成和1×3垫纱的后部纱线组成;胸部箍带区,该胸部箍带区具有多根胸部箍带区纱线,该多根胸部箍带区纱线在工程化胸罩中被经编针织以在第一方向上提供第五拉伸模量并且在第二方向上提供第六拉伸模量,所述多根胸部箍带区纱线包括1×1垫纱的前部纱线组成、1×3垫纱的后部纱线组成和衬垫硬纱线(laid-in hard yarn),其中条带区纱线与罩杯区纱线互锁,并且罩杯区纱线与胸部箍带区纱线互锁。In another example, an engineered brassiere includes a band region having a plurality of band region yarns that are warp knitted in the engineered brassiere to provide a first tensile modulus in a first direction and a second tensile modulus in a second direction, the plurality of band region yarns comprising a front yarn component and a back yarn component; and a cup region having a plurality of cup region yarns that are warp knitted in the engineered brassiere to provide a third tensile modulus in the first direction and a fourth tensile modulus in the second direction. a chest cuff region having a plurality of chest cuff region yarns that are warp knitted in an engineered bra to provide a fifth tensile modulus in a first direction and a sixth tensile modulus in a second direction, the plurality of chest cuff region yarns comprising a front yarn composition of 1×1 inlays, a back yarn composition of 1×3 inlays, and laid-in hard yarns, wherein the strap region yarns are interlocked with the cup region yarns, and the cup region yarns are interlocked with the chest cuff region yarns.
首先参考图1的示例性俯视图,可以从材料12切割工程化针织胸罩10,该材料12包括多个预先构造的锁定区和拉伸区,该锁定区和拉伸区改变在整个材料12上的拉伸特性。例如,材料12可包括一个或更多个锁定区和一个或更多个拉伸区。可以设想,在多个锁定区之间可能存在不同的锁定特性。还可以设想,在多个拉伸区之间可能存在不同的拉伸特性。因此,本文中不同的特性区可以通过字母标识来指代,而不同的物理区可以通过数字标识来指代。例如,普通胸罩可以包括两个(或更多个)锁定区(例如,第一区14和第三区18),其中锁定区中的每一个具有不同的锁定特性(例如,分别为A和C)。类似地,拉伸区(例如,第二区16)可以具有拉伸特性(例如,B)。如此,在示例性方面中,可以设想多个区可以共享共同的特性。另外地或可替代地,共同区可以具有多个特性。Referring first to the exemplary top view of FIG. 1 , an engineered knit bra 10 can be cut from material 12 that includes multiple pre-configured locking and stretch zones that vary the stretch properties across the entire material 12. For example, material 12 can include one or more locking zones and one or more stretch zones. It is contemplated that different locking properties may exist between multiple locking zones. It is also contemplated that different stretch properties may exist between multiple stretch zones. Therefore, herein, different property zones may be referred to by letter designations, while different physical zones may be referred to by numerical designations. For example, a conventional bra may include two (or more) locking zones (e.g., first zone 14 and third zone 18), each of which has different locking properties (e.g., A and C, respectively). Similarly, a stretch zone (e.g., second zone 16) may have a stretch property (e.g., B). Thus, in exemplary aspects, it is contemplated that multiple zones may share common properties. Additionally or alternatively, a common zone may have multiple properties.
在图1的示例中,可以从材料12切割工程化针织胸罩10,使得从第一区14切割工程化针织胸罩10的第一部分,从第二区16切割工程化针织胸罩10的第二部分,并且从第三区18切割工程化针织胸罩10的第三部分。如此,图1的示例性胸罩穿过材料的纹理切割,其中胸罩的宽度(从左翼部到右翼部)沿着y轴并且胸罩长度/高度(从胸罩箍带到胸罩条带)沿着x轴定向。随着工程化针织胸罩10在材料12内的定向,在一个方面中,胸罩的锁定区和拉伸区对应于沿着y轴针织的经编方向。在另一个示例中,工程化针织胸罩10可以在材料12内沿着纬编方向(即,具有胸罩沿着x轴的宽度)定向,以提供对应于沿着x轴针织的纬编方向的锁定区和拉伸区。In the example of FIG. 1 , the engineered knit bra 10 can be cut from the material 12 such that a first portion of the engineered knit bra 10 is cut from the first region 14, a second portion of the engineered knit bra 10 is cut from the second region 16, and a third portion of the engineered knit bra 10 is cut from the third region 18. Thus, the exemplary bra of FIG. 1 is cut across the grain of the material, with the width of the bra (from the left wing to the right wing) being along the y-axis and the bra length/height (from the bra cuff to the bra strap) being oriented along the x-axis. With the engineered knit bra 10 oriented within the material 12, in one aspect, the locking and stretching zones of the bra correspond to the warp knitting direction along the y-axis. In another example, the engineered knit bra 10 can be oriented within the material 12 along the weft knitting direction (i.e., with the width of the bra along the x-axis) to provide locking and stretching zones corresponding to the weft knitting direction along the x-axis.
在图1的示例中,工程化材料12包括具有来自针织结构、针织张力和/或纱线类型的锁定A特性的第一区14;具有来自针织结构、针织张力和/或纱线类型的拉伸特性B的第二区16(邻近第一区14);以及具有来自针织结构、针织张力和/或纱线类型的锁定特性C的第三区18(邻近第二区16)。为了方便起见,这些特性在下文中可以称为区。锁定区A可以包括与锁定区C相关联的特性相同或相似的特性(即,针织结构、针织张力和/或纱线类型),而在其他方面中,锁定区A和锁定区C可以包括不同的特性。例如,第一区14可以包括特定的针织结构、针织张力和/或纱线类型,其最小化相对于锁定区A在沿着y轴的纵向方向上的伸长(提供锁定)。此外,第三区18可以包括特定的针织结构、针织张力和/或纱线类型,其最小化相对于锁定区C在沿着x轴的横向方向上以及在纵向方向上的伸长(提供锁定)。在一个示例中,第一区14的至少一部分具有可以包括双股线纱线的锁定区A特性,比起在具有拉伸区B特性的邻近的第二区16中的热塑性聚氨酯(TPU)纱线,该双股线纱线要求更多的力以拉伸纱线。In the example of FIG. 1 , the engineered material 12 includes a first zone 14 having a locking property A derived from the knit structure, knit tension, and/or yarn type; a second zone 16 (adjacent to the first zone 14) having a stretch property B derived from the knit structure, knit tension, and/or yarn type; and a third zone 18 (adjacent to the second zone 16) having a locking property C derived from the knit structure, knit tension, and/or yarn type. For convenience, these properties may be referred to as zones hereinafter. Locking zone A may include the same or similar properties (i.e., knit structure, knit tension, and/or yarn type) as those associated with locking zone C, while in other aspects, locking zone A and locking zone C may include different properties. For example, the first zone 14 may include a specific knit structure, knit tension, and/or yarn type that minimizes elongation in the longitudinal direction along the y-axis relative to locking zone A (providing locking). Additionally, the third zone 18 may include a specific knit structure, knit tension, and/or yarn type that minimizes elongation in the transverse direction along the x-axis and in the longitudinal direction relative to locking zone C (providing locking). In one example, at least a portion of the first zone 14 has a locking zone A characteristic that can include a two-ply yarn that requires more force to stretch the yarn than a thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) yarn in an adjacent second zone 16 having a stretch zone B characteristic.
图1图示了具有在第一区14、第二区16和第三区18中的每一个中绘制的阴影。绘制阴影仅仅是为了对比材料12内和邻近的区之间变化的拉伸或锁定特性,但并不表示这样的区的特定构造或外观。而是,沿着第一区14和第二区16之间的界线20,材料12内的一个或更多个针织特性可以改变,以在邻近的区之间产生拉伸性能的差异,诸如与界线20上方的第一区14的至少一部分相关联的低/无拉伸纱线,以及与界线20下方的第二区16的至少一部分相关联的拉伸针织纱线。在一个示例中,在第一区14(即,具有一个或更多个锁定区A特性)内提供纵向方向上的锁定(诸如在y轴的方向上)的特定针织线迹构型可以邻近在第二区16内提供四向拉伸(即,拉伸区B特性,提供沿着x轴和y轴两者的拉伸)的不同的针织线迹构型。另外,在一些方面中,特定的针织线迹构型可以在第三区18内提供纵向方向和横向方向两者上(即,沿着y轴和x轴两者)的锁定。FIG1 illustrates a material 12 having shading within each of first, second, and third zones 14, 16, and 18. The shading is intended solely to contrast the varying stretch or locking properties within the material 12 and between adjacent zones and does not indicate a particular configuration or appearance of such zones. Rather, along a boundary 20 between the first and second zones 14, 16, one or more knit characteristics within the material 12 may vary to create a difference in stretch properties between the adjacent zones, such as low/no stretch yarns associated with at least a portion of the first zone 14 above the boundary 20 and stretch knit yarns associated with at least a portion of the second zone 16 below the boundary 20. In one example, a particular knit stitch configuration within the first zone 14 (i.e., having one or more Locking Zone A characteristics) that provides locking in the longitudinal direction (e.g., along the y-axis) may be adjacent to a different knit stitch configuration within the second zone 16 that provides four-way stretch (i.e., Stretch Zone B characteristics, providing stretch along both the x-axis and the y-axis). Additionally, in some aspects, particular knit stitch configurations can provide locking within third region 18 in both the longitudinal and transverse directions (ie, along both the y-axis and the x-axis).
类似于第一区14和第二区16之间的界线,第二区16和第三区18之间的界线22可以指示材料12内沿着界线22的一个或更多个针织特性的改变,以产生变化的拉伸性能,诸如与第二区16的至少一部分相关联的拉伸针织线迹以及在第三区18内具有纵向方向和横向方向两者上的锁定的特定锁定针织线迹构型。尽管在这个示例中关于针织线迹构型进行了描述,但是材料12的另外的方面可以包括邻近的区之间的变化的拉伸性能,该变化的拉伸性能对应于在每个区的至少一部分内变化的一个或更多个针织结构、一个或更多个针织张力和/或一个或更多个纱线类型。例如,可以通过针织机在第一区14内施加第一纱线张力,而可以通过针织机在第二区16内施加第二纱线张力。如在本文中使用的,纱线“张力”是指在针织操作期间在与针织的方向相反的方向上施加到纱线上的力的量。Similar to the boundary between first zone 14 and second zone 16, boundary 22 between second zone 16 and third zone 18 can indicate a change in one or more knit characteristics within material 12 along boundary 22 to produce varying stretch properties, such as a stretch knit stitch associated with at least a portion of second zone 16 and a particular locking knit stitch configuration with locking in both the longitudinal and transverse directions within third zone 18. While described in this example with respect to knit stitch configurations, additional aspects of material 12 can include varying stretch properties between adjacent zones, corresponding to varying one or more knit structures, one or more knit tensions, and/or one or more yarn types within at least a portion of each zone. For example, a first yarn tension can be applied by the knitting machine within first zone 14, while a second yarn tension can be applied by the knitting machine within second zone 16. As used herein, yarn "tension" refers to the amount of force applied to a yarn in a direction opposite to the direction of knitting during the knitting operation.
如图1的示例中所描绘的,第一区14可以包括锁定区A特性,该锁定区A特性与第三区18的锁定区C特性相同或不同。换句话说,第一区14可以被表征为提供锁定,如通过特定的工程化锁定区A特性所限定的,而第三区18可以被表征为提供与工程化锁定区C特性相关联的锁定。在一些方面中,第一区14的至少一部分可以包括锁定区A,该锁定区A使用与具有锁定区C特性的第三区18的至少一部分中相同或相似的纱线组成来实现,诸如施加到针织到第一区14和第三区18的至少一部分中的相同纱线类型的不同纱线张力。在一些方面中,在每个锁定区内具有不同的工程化特征的情况下,每个锁定区的至少一部分内的低拉伸、无拉伸和/或最小伸长的量对应于特定的胸罩结构,诸如胸罩条带或胸罩箍带。在另一方面中,材料12内的锁定区A和锁定区C的线迹结构和构造技术可以对应于横向(x轴)和纵向(y轴)锁定定向。例如,第一区14的锁定区A特性可以包括特定的线迹结构、纱线类型和/或机器针织构造技术,以提供与条带区域26相关联的纵向锁定。类似地,第三区18的锁定区C特性可以被表征为包括特定的线迹结构、纱线类型和/或机器针织构造技术,以提供与箍带区域30相关联的横向和纵向两者锁定。在另一方面中,锁定区A和锁定区C可以包括相对于y轴和x轴的纵向和横向锁定,以根据每个区各自的针织结构、张力和/或纱线类型来改变拉伸的程度。As depicted in the example of FIG. 1 , first zone 14 may include a Locking Zone A characteristic that is the same as or different from the Locking Zone C characteristic of third zone 18. In other words, first zone 14 may be characterized as providing locking, as defined by a specific engineered Locking Zone A characteristic, while third zone 18 may be characterized as providing locking associated with the engineered Locking Zone C characteristic. In some aspects, at least a portion of first zone 14 may include a Locking Zone A that is implemented using the same or similar yarn composition as at least a portion of third zone 18 having the Locking Zone C characteristic, such as different yarn tensions applied to the same yarn type knitted into at least a portion of first zone 14 and third zone 18. In some aspects, with different engineered characteristics within each Locking Zone, the amount of low stretch, no stretch, and/or minimal elongation within at least a portion of each Locking Zone corresponds to a specific bra structure, such as a bra strap or bra cuff. In another aspect, the stitch structure and construction techniques of the Locking Zones A and C within material 12 may correspond to transverse (x-axis) and longitudinal (y-axis) locking orientations. For example, the Locking Zone A characteristics of the first region 14 may include a specific stitch structure, yarn type, and/or machine knit construction technique to provide longitudinal locking associated with the strap area 26. Similarly, the Locking Zone C characteristics of the third region 18 may be characterized as including a specific stitch structure, yarn type, and/or machine knit construction technique to provide both transverse and longitudinal locking associated with the cuff area 30. In another aspect, the Locking Zones A and C may include longitudinal and transverse locking relative to the y-axis and x-axis to vary the degree of stretch depending on the respective knit structure, tension, and/or yarn type of each region.
在一个方面中,工程化胸罩前部24可以构造在材料12内,在该示例中,具有根据一个或更多个锁定区A和锁定区C以及拉伸区B定向的多个式样部分。在图1的示例中,条带区域26可以定位在第一区14(具有特定的锁定区A特性)内,胸围区域28可以定位在第二区16(具有特定的拉伸区B特性)内,并且箍带区域30可以定位在第三区18(具有特定的锁定区C特性)内。因此,第一区14可以被针织以包括一个或更多个具体的纱线、线迹、一体式结构、变化的张力和/或其组合,以在对应于条带区域26的位置处提供锁定区A。类似地,第二区16可以被针织以包括一个或更多个具体的纱线、线迹、一体式结构、变化的张力和/或其组合,以在对应于胸围区域28的位置处提供拉伸区B。最后,第三区18可以被针织以包括一个或更多个具体的纱线、线迹、一体式结构、变化的张力或其组合,以在对应于箍带区域30的位置处提供锁定区C。在一个方面中,第一区14内的条带区域26可以包括工程化胸罩前部24的领口的至少一部分,诸如沿着胸围区域28的上边缘的上部部分。例如,如图1中所示出的,锁定区A可以沿着胸罩前部24的条带延伸并且延伸到胸罩邻近拉伸区B的中央部分中。在穿用者的领口边缘和上胸围周围的区域中的这样的另外的锁定可以向穿用者提供另外的支撑,诸如通过抵抗穿用者的乳房在向上的方向上的弹跳。因此,虽然与第一区14相关联的锁定区A特性可以对应于胸罩前部24内的“条带区域”,但是在一些方面中,锁定区A特性沿着x轴延伸超过条带长度并朝向罩杯延伸,以在过渡到第二区16的拉伸区B特性之前提供另外的锁定支撑(例如,增加对乳房组织的压缩并抵抗弹跳)。In one aspect, an engineered bra front 24 can be constructed within material 12, in this example, with multiple patterned portions oriented according to one or more Lock Zones A and C, and Stretch Zones B. In the example of FIG. 1 , the strap region 26 can be positioned within the first region 14 (having specific Lock Zone A characteristics), the bust region 28 can be positioned within the second region 16 (having specific Stretch Zone B characteristics), and the cuff region 30 can be positioned within the third region 18 (having specific Lock Zone C characteristics). Thus, the first region 14 can be knitted to include one or more specific yarns, stitches, integral structures, varying tensions, and/or combinations thereof to provide Lock Zone A at locations corresponding to the strap region 26. Similarly, the second region 16 can be knitted to include one or more specific yarns, stitches, integral structures, varying tensions, and/or combinations thereof to provide Stretch Zone B at locations corresponding to the bust region 28. Finally, the third zone 18 can be knitted to include one or more specific yarns, stitches, unitary structures, varying tensions, or combinations thereof to provide a lockdown zone C at a location corresponding to the cuff area 30. In one aspect, the strap area 26 within the first zone 14 can include at least a portion of the neckline of the engineered bra front 24, such as along the upper portion of the upper edge of the bust area 28. For example, as shown in FIG1 , the lockdown zone A can extend along the straps of the bra front 24 and into the central portion of the bra adjacent the stretch zone B. Such additional lockdown in the areas around the wearer's neckline edge and upper bust can provide additional support to the wearer, such as by resisting bouncing of the wearer's breasts in an upward direction. Thus, while the Lockdown Zone A features associated with the first zone 14 may correspond to a "strap area" within the bra front 24, in some aspects, the Lockdown Zone A features extend beyond the strap length along the x-axis and toward the cup to provide additional locked-in support (e.g., to increase compression of the breast tissue and resist bounce) before transitioning to the Stretch Zone B features of the second zone 16.
尽管在图1的示例中被描绘为包括第一区14、第二区16和第三区18,但是在另外的方面中,具有示例性特性A、B和/或C中的一个或更多个的更少或更多数量的区可以在材料12内定向,用于提供对应的工程化胸罩前部24。例如,工程化胸罩前部可以包括第一区14,该第一区14具有沿着上条带区域的锁定区A特性,并且第二区16具有到达胸罩前部24的底部边缘的拉伸区B特性。以这种方式,根据一个方面,具有稳定/锁定方面的另外的区带状结构可以单独地附接到胸罩前部24的材料12,胸罩前部24可以包括第一区14和第二区16。此外,多个锁定区A和锁定区C以及拉伸区B的尺寸、定向、位置和/或顺序也可以在不同的方面之间变化,诸如在材料12内的工程化胸罩前部24的不同式样布置之间变化。Although depicted in the example of FIG. 1 as including a first zone 14, a second zone 16, and a third zone 18, in further aspects, a fewer or greater number of zones having one or more of the exemplary properties A, B, and/or C can be oriented within the material 12 to provide a corresponding engineered bra front 24. For example, the engineered bra front can include a first zone 14 having a Locking Zone A property along the upper strap area, and a second zone 16 having a Stretch Zone B property extending to the bottom edge of the bra front 24. In this manner, according to one aspect, an additional zoned structure having stabilizing/locking aspects can be separately attached to the material 12 of the bra front 24, which can include the first zone 14 and the second zone 16. Furthermore, the size, orientation, location, and/or sequence of the plurality of Locking Zones A and C, and the Stretch Zones B, can also vary between different aspects, such as between different pattern arrangements of the engineered bra front 24 within the material 12.
接下来转到图2,根据一个方面,工程化针织胸罩32的俯视图包括具有另外的覆盖(或一体地形成的)特征的材料34。参考示例性工程化胸罩前部24,条带区域26包括条带式样36,胸围区域28包括胸围式样38、中线式样40和翼部式样42,并且箍带区域30包括箍带式样44。在一个方面中,胸罩前部24上的示例性式样特征的对称定向可以对应于竖直中线轴线,并且对应于胸罩的多个区域,诸如罩杯、条带或箍带区域。在另一方面中,胸罩前部24的式样特征可以是与材料34一体地针织的装饰元件、施加到材料34的表面的覆盖处理、或者具有视觉冲击和用于稳定针织胸罩32的结构的结构支撑两者的工程化针织结构。例如,在一些方面中,条带区域26包括在第一区14内的条带式样36,其中条带式样36沿着工程化胸罩32的领口的上部部分延伸。在一个方面中,条带式样36是施加到材料34上的覆盖处理,这可能影响与锁定区A特性相关联的弹性模量。如此,基于由邻近第二区16的条带式样36的至少一部分提供的压缩的量,条带式样36可以提供另外的压缩和/或防止穿用者的乳房组织的向上行进。例如,在一些方面中,条带式样36沿着x轴延伸超过条带长度并朝向罩杯延伸,以在过渡到第二区16的拉伸区B特性中之前提供另外的锁定支撑(例如,向乳房组织添加向下的力或压缩并抵抗弹跳)。Turning next to FIG2 , according to one aspect, a top view of an engineered knit bra 32 includes a material 34 having additional covering (or integrally formed) features. Referring to the exemplary engineered bra front 24, the strap area 26 includes a strap pattern 36, the bust area 28 includes a bust pattern 38, a midline pattern 40, and a wing pattern 42, and the cuff area 30 includes a cuff pattern 44. In one aspect, the symmetrical orientation of the exemplary pattern features on the bra front 24 can correspond to a vertical midline axis and correspond to multiple areas of the bra, such as the cup, strap, or cuff areas. In another aspect, the pattern features of the bra front 24 can be decorative elements knitted integrally with the material 34, covering treatments applied to the surface of the material 34, or an engineered knit structure having both visual impact and structural support for stabilizing the structure of the knitted bra 32. For example, in some aspects, the strap area 26 includes a strap pattern 36 within the first zone 14, wherein the strap pattern 36 extends along the upper portion of the neckline of the engineered brassiere 32. In one aspect, the strap pattern 36 is a covering treatment applied to the material 34, which may affect the elastic modulus associated with the Locking Zone A characteristic. Thus, based on the amount of compression provided by at least a portion of the strap pattern 36 adjacent to the second zone 16, the strap pattern 36 can provide additional compression and/or prevent upward movement of the wearer's breast tissue. For example, in some aspects, the strap pattern 36 extends beyond the strap length along the x-axis and extends toward the cup to provide additional locking support (e.g., adding downward force or compression to the breast tissue and resisting bounce) before transitioning into the Stretch Zone B characteristic of the second zone 16.
材料34可以包括针织式样和/或表面覆盖特征,其在工程化针织胸罩32的整体针织结构内提供另外的功能益处,其也可以对应于特定的胸罩区域内的特定的工程化针织结构。例如,关于胸围区域28,胸围式样38可以提供适度和/或增加压缩以最小化穿用者的乳房组织的向上弹跳,中线式样40可以提供分离和/或支撑,并且翼部式样42可以在胸围区域28内和穿用者的乳房周围提供提升和/或稳定性。如此,可以被一体地针织和/或作为覆盖物被施加的示例性式样特征在对应于胸罩的特定式样件(诸如具有定位在罩杯的中间区域附近的胸围式样38的胸围区域28)的材料内提供功能,并且可以是比其他式样区域更低密度的。在一个示例中,覆盖特征可以包括应用于胸罩材料的至少一部分的热结合表面处理,诸如通过限制针织材料内线迹的行进来减少拉伸的合成覆盖。如此,在示例性方面中,除了由在箍带区域30内使用的针织结构、纱线类型和针织张力已经提供的最小伸长或稳定之外,覆盖物可以被施加到箍带区域30的表面,以最小化拉伸和/或稳定针织线迹。The material 34 may comprise a knitting pattern and/or surface covering features, which provide additional functional benefits in the overall knitting structure of the engineered knitted brassiere 32, and which may also correspond to the specific engineered knitted structure in the specific brassiere region. For example, about the chest region 28, the chest pattern 38 may provide moderation and/or increase compression to minimize the upward bounce of the wearer's breast tissue, and the centerline pattern 40 may provide separation and/or support, and the wing pattern 42 may provide lifting and/or stability in the chest region 28 and around the wearer's breast. In this way, the exemplary pattern features that may be knitted integrally and/or applied as a covering provide function in the material corresponding to the specific pattern piece of a brassiere (such as the chest region 28 with a chest pattern 38 positioned near the middle region of the cup), and may be lower density than other pattern areas. In one example, the covering features may comprise a thermal bonding surface treatment applied to at least a portion of the brassiere material, such as a synthetic covering that reduces stretching by limiting the movement of stitches in the knitted material. Thus, in exemplary aspects, in addition to the minimum stretch or stabilization already provided by the knit construction, yarn type, and knit tension used in the cuff area 30, a covering may be applied to the surface of the cuff area 30 to minimize stretching and/or stabilize the knit stitches.
在针织图2中的材料34以及将多种式样特征施加到对应的条带区域26、胸围区域28和箍带区域30的期间,材料34可以沿着工作边缘(working edge)46并且远离前边缘(lead edge)48在y轴的方向上针织。在一个方面中,相对于区带状锁定区A和区带状锁定区C以及拉伸区B,沿着工作边缘46到线迹类型、纱线类型、一体式结构/特征或材料34的其他工程化方面的改变可以沿着x轴以水平方式施加。因此,在一个方面中,所得到的工程化胸罩前部24可以包括锁定区和拉伸区的水平定向区,其在材料34内无缝过渡并且可以根据特定胸罩类型的期望支撑水平进行修改。During the knitting of the material 34 in FIG. 2 and the application of various styling features to the corresponding strap areas 26, bust area 28, and cuff area 30, the material 34 can be knitted in the direction of the y-axis along the working edge 46 and away from the leading edge 48. In one aspect, changes to the stitch type, yarn type, integral structure/feature, or other engineered aspects of the material 34 along the working edge 46 can be applied horizontally along the x-axis relative to the zonal locking zones A and C and the stretch zones B. Thus, in one aspect, the resulting engineered bra front 24 can include horizontally oriented zones of locking and stretch zones that seamlessly transition within the material 34 and can be modified based on the desired level of support for a particular bra type.
例如,胸罩前部24可以从材料34中取出,如图3中所示出的,其中切出的胸罩52具有领口边缘54、腋下边缘56、条带边缘58、箍带边缘60和翼部边缘62。此外,根据多个方面,切出的胸罩52保持工程化锁定区A和工程化锁定区C以及拉伸区B,用于组装成穿用构型。因此,工程化胸罩前部24可以包括定向在多个方向上的锁定区和拉伸区,为了便于穿用,胸罩的区之间的无缝过渡提供了变化的支撑和拉伸。For example, the bra front 24 can be removed from the material 34, as shown in FIG3 , wherein the cut-out bra 52 has a neckline edge 54, an underarm edge 56, a strap edge 58, a cuff edge 60, and a wing edge 62. In addition, according to various aspects, the cut-out bra 52 retains the engineered locking zones A and C, as well as the stretch zones B, for assembly into a wear configuration. Thus, the engineered bra front 24 can include locking zones and stretch zones oriented in multiple directions, providing a seamless transition between zones of the bra for ease of wear and varying support and stretch.
因此,切出的胸罩后部64的一个示例被描绘在图4中,并且包括后部材料66,后部材料66具有左上边缘68、右上边缘70、左腋下边缘72、右腋下边缘74、左下边缘76、右下边缘78和底部边缘80。后部材料66可以包括被构造成在一个或更多个邻接特征(诸如与左上边缘68和右上边缘70匹配的条带边缘58,以及与左下边缘76和右下边缘78匹配的翼部边缘62)处联接到胸罩前部24的任何材料。在一个方面中,后部材料66的表面82包括网状结构,诸如具有允许空气传输的穿孔的通气网状材料。在另外的方面中,后部材料66可以包括被构造成支撑对应的胸罩前部24(诸如沿着胸罩后部64的底部边缘的另外的锁定区C)的一个或更多个特征或者胸罩后部64的中央部分中的拉伸区B内的四向拉伸特征的任何材料特性。可替代地,材料66的独立和/或互补的拉伸特性可以提供胸罩后部64,该胸罩后部64被优化用于穿套的容易性和穿用,而与胸罩前部相对的对应的锁定区和拉伸区无关。4 and includes a back material 66 having a left upper edge 68, a right upper edge 70, a left underarm edge 72, a right underarm edge 74, a left lower edge 76, a right lower edge 78, and a bottom edge 80. The back material 66 can include any material configured to be coupled to the bra front 24 at one or more abutment features, such as a strap edge 58 that mates with the left upper edge 68 and the right upper edge 70, and a wing edge 62 that mates with the left lower edge 76 and the right lower edge 78. In one aspect, a surface 82 of the back material 66 includes a mesh structure, such as a breathable mesh material having perforations that allow air transmission. In further aspects, the back material 66 can include any material properties configured to support one or more features of the corresponding bra front 24, such as an additional locking zone C along the bottom edge of the bra back 64, or a four-way stretch feature within the stretch zone B in the central portion of the bra back 64. Alternatively, the independent and/or complementary stretch properties of the material 66 can provide a bra back 64 that is optimized for ease of donning and application, independent of corresponding locking and stretch zones on the opposing bra front.
当定位在图5的组装的工程化针织胸罩84内时,多个锁定区A和锁定区C以及拉伸区B可以至少对应于胸罩前部24的预先构造的锁定区和拉伸区。在向组装的工程化针织胸罩84施加另外的模制处理时,对应于拉伸区B内的一个或更多个特性的模制胸围86可以包括模制右罩杯88和模制左罩杯90。在一个示例中,各种式样和/或覆盖特征,诸如参考图2至图3描述的那些,可以对应于特定的区域内用于模制的特定的工程化针织结构。如此,模制胸围86可以包括来自图2的胸围式样38、中线式样40和翼部式样42,特征是,一旦相对于模制右罩杯88和模制左罩杯90定向,就提供了胸围区域28内的工程化针织区以及整合在整体结构内的对应的支撑元件的视觉指示。When positioned within the assembled engineered knit bra 84 of FIG. 5 , the plurality of lock zones A and C and stretch zones B can correspond to at least the pre-configured lock zones and stretch zones of the bra front 24. When additional molding is applied to the assembled engineered knit bra 84, a molded bust 86 corresponding to one or more characteristics within stretch zone B can include a molded right cup 88 and a molded left cup 90. In one example, various patterns and/or covering features, such as those described with reference to FIG. 2 to FIG. 3 , can correspond to specific engineered knit structures for molding within specific regions. Thus, the molded bust 86 can include the bust pattern 38, the centerline pattern 40, and the wing pattern 42 from FIG. 2 , characterized in that, once oriented relative to the molded right cup 88 and the molded left cup 90, a visual indication of the engineered knit region within the bust region 28 and the corresponding support elements integrated within the overall structure is provided.
接下来转到图6,根据本文的方面,示例性工程化针织胸罩92的俯视图包括针织材料94,该针织材料94具有预先构造的锁定区和拉伸区以及另外的一体式针织结构。针织材料94包括邻近拉伸区B提供锁定区A和锁定区C的针织结构。在图6的示例中,胸罩前部96可以沿着针织材料94的竖直轴线y和水平轴线x定向,使得条带区域98包括第一锁定区A的针织结构。此外,邻近条带区域98的胸围区域100可以包括拉伸区B的针织结构,同时在胸罩前部96的区域之间继续整体针织结构。例如,工程化针织胸罩92可以包括在条带区域98中稳定、锁定的条带结构,该条带区域98邻近胸围区域100中的拉伸性、可移动/已成形(shape-ready)的结构并与该结构互连。在一个方面中,条带区域98和胸围区域100可以包括两个区域之间的至少一个共同特性,诸如共同纱线、共同针织线迹和/或共同张力,而一个或更多个特性在区域之间变化以改变锁定的量。换句话说,根据一个方面,根据针织材料94内的式样布置,两个胸罩区域可以无缝联结并以整体结构针织,其中每个区域的功能特性由线迹类型、纱线类型、纱线张力和/或针织结构(即,锁定和拉伸特性)来确定。Turning next to Figure 6, a top view of an exemplary engineered knit bra 92, according to aspects of the present invention, includes a knit material 94 having pre-configured locking and stretch zones and an additional integral knit structure. The knit material 94 includes a knit structure that provides a locking zone A and a locking zone C adjacent to the stretch zone B. In the example of Figure 6, the bra front 96 can be oriented along the vertical axis y and the horizontal axis x of the knit material 94 so that the strap area 98 includes a knit structure of the first locking zone A. In addition, the bust area 100 adjacent to the strap area 98 can include a knit structure of the stretch zone B while continuing the integral knit structure between areas of the bra front 96. For example, the engineered knit bra 92 can include a stable, locked strap structure in the strap area 98 that is adjacent to and interconnected with a stretchable, removable/shape-ready structure in the bust area 100. In one aspect, the strap region 98 and the bust region 100 can include at least one common characteristic between the two regions, such as a common yarn, a common knit stitch, and/or a common tension, while one or more of the characteristics vary between the regions to vary the amount of locking in. In other words, according to one aspect, based on the pattern arrangement within the knit material 94, the two bra regions can be seamlessly joined and knitted in a unitary construction, wherein the functional properties of each region are determined by the stitch type, yarn type, yarn tension, and/or knit structure (i.e., locking and stretch properties).
工程化针织胸罩92的示例性针织结构还包括箍带区域102,该箍带区域102邻近胸围区域100并且对应于第二锁定区C。如此,整体针织结构可以在胸围区域100和箍带区域102之间继续,具有与箍带区域102中的稳定的锁定箍带特征邻近并且互连的胸围区域100中的拉伸性、可移动/已成形的结构。在另外的方面中,胸围区域100和箍带区域102可以包括两个区域之间的至少一个共同特性,具有这样的区域之间的无缝联结以及基于线迹类型、纱线类型、纱线张力和/或针织结构(即,锁定和拉伸特性)并且根据针织材料94内的式样布置的每个区域的工程化功能。The exemplary knit structure of the engineered knit bra 92 also includes a cuff area 102 adjacent to the bust area 100 and corresponding to the second locking zone C. As such, the overall knit structure can continue between the bust area 100 and the cuff area 102, with stretchable, movable/shaped structures in the bust area 100 adjacent to and interconnected with stable, locking cuff features in the cuff area 102. In further aspects, the bust area 100 and the cuff area 102 can include at least one common characteristic between the two areas, with a seamless connection between such areas and engineered functionality of each area based on stitch type, yarn type, yarn tension, and/or knit structure (i.e., locking and stretch characteristics) and according to pattern placement within the knit material 94.
虽然锁定区A和锁定区C以及拉伸区B向胸罩提供支撑、压缩、结构和/或形状,但是另外的特性可以针织到工程化材料94中,以增强胸罩前部96的一个或更多个功能。在图6的示例中,胸罩前部96可以包括条带区域104、第一一体式结构106、第二一体式结构108、第三一体式结构110、第四一体式结构112和/或第五一体式结构114。这里描绘的示例性一体式结构中的每一个可以相对于条带区域98、胸围区域100和箍带区域102的至少一部分沿着胸罩前部96的特定部分定向。例如,第一一体式结构106可以包括在拉伸区B内的上胸围线迹区域处的特定线迹类型,诸如在条带区域98的锁定区A和在拉伸区B处开始的界线之间形成过渡的针织结构。在另外的方面中,拉伸区B可以包括具有环绕罩杯区域的特定线迹类型的第二一体式结构108、胸罩主体区域处的第三一体式结构110和在翼部区域处具有特定线迹类型的第四一体式结构112。拉伸区B内的示例性一体式结构可以包括多种不同的线迹类型、数量、定向、密度或其他工程化特性,以在工程化针织材料94内针织的胸罩前部96内提供特定功能,诸如另外的支撑、结构、成形、压缩或适度特性。在针织期间,这样的工程化特性可以使用提供多种机器针织构造技术(诸如经编针织构造、圆机针织构造和横机针织构造)的专门的针织机来产生。如此,胸罩式样在针织材料内的定向可以根据所使用的针织机和每种技术可用的多种针织构造技术而变化。此外,箍带区域102的锁定区C还可以包括一个或更多个一体式结构(诸如第五一体式结构114),并且借助于材料94内的各种线迹类型、数量、定向、密度或其他工程化特性而在胸罩结构内具有类似的各种功能。While Lock Zones A and C, as well as Stretch Zone B, provide support, compression, structure, and/or shape to the bra, additional properties can be knitted into the engineered material 94 to enhance one or more functions of the bra front 96. In the example of FIG6 , the bra front 96 can include a strap region 104, a first unitary structure 106, a second unitary structure 108, a third unitary structure 110, a fourth unitary structure 112, and/or a fifth unitary structure 114. Each of the exemplary unitary structures depicted herein can be oriented along a specific portion of the bra front 96 relative to at least a portion of the strap region 98, the bust region 100, and the cuff region 102. For example, the first unitary structure 106 can include a specific stitch type at the upper bust stitch area within the stretch zone B, such as a knit structure that forms a transition between Lock Zone A in the strap region 98 and a boundary starting at the stretch zone B. In another aspect, stretch zone B may include a second unitary structure 108 having a specific stitch type around the cup area, a third unitary structure 110 at the bra body area, and a fourth unitary structure 112 having a specific stitch type at the wing area. Exemplary unitary structures within stretch zone B may include a variety of different stitch types, quantities, orientations, densities, or other engineered properties to provide specific functions within the bra front 96 knitted within the engineered knit material 94, such as additional support, structure, shaping, compression, or fit properties. During knitting, such engineered properties can be produced using specialized knitting machines that offer a variety of machine knitting construction technologies, such as warp knitting construction, circular knitting construction, and flat knitting construction. In this way, the orientation of the bra pattern within the knitted material can vary depending on the knitting machine used and the variety of knitting construction technologies available for each technology. Additionally, the locking zone C of the cuff region 102 may also include one or more integral structures, such as the fifth integral structure 114, and have similar various functions within the bra structure by virtue of various stitch types, numbers, orientations, densities, or other engineered characteristics within the material 94.
工程化针织胸罩92的一体式针织结构和/或式样可以例如通过改变单个或多个针织线迹的一个或更多个尺寸来产生。例如,对应于特定凸起或凹陷的一体式针织结构的线迹类型、长度和/或间距可以被包括在胸罩92内,并改变针织材料的一个或更多个特性。在一个方面中,线迹长度上的改变可以提供变化的拉伸性能,诸如提供较小的拉伸的较短的线迹长度,和向总体材料提供更大的拉伸的较长的线迹长度。这样的一体式针织结构可以用于修改与胸罩92的多个区域和/或区相关联的弹性模量或压缩力。此外,这样的一体式针织结构的定向和/或方向,或者在变化的胸罩区域或区内的布置的式样,可以进一步修改由胸罩所施加的压缩力的方向、保持在胸罩区域内的支撑水平,以及特定胸罩区域和锁定/拉伸区内的支撑对齐。The one-piece knitted structure and/or the style of the engineered knitted brassiere 92 can be produced, for example, by changing one or more sizes of a single or multiple knitted stitches. For example, the stitch type, length and/or spacing of the one-piece knitted structure corresponding to a specific projection or depression can be included in the brassiere 92 and change one or more characteristics of the knitted material. In one aspect, the change in stitch length can provide the tensile properties of the variation, such as providing a shorter stitch length for less stretching, and providing a longer stitch length for greater stretching to the overall material. Such one-piece knitted structure can be used to modify the elastic modulus or the compression force associated with multiple regions and/or districts of the brassiere 92. In addition, the orientation and/or direction of such one-piece knitted structure, or the style of the arrangement in the brassiere region or district of variation, can further modify the direction of the compression force applied by the brassiere, the support level maintained in the brassiere region, and the support alignment in the specific brassiere region and the locking/stretching zone.
根据一个方面,一旦组装好,如图7中所示出的,工程化针织胸罩116可以包括联接到胸罩前部96的胸罩后部64,该胸罩前部96具有预先构造的锁定区A和锁定区C以及拉伸区B,其由另外的一体式针织结构强化。胸罩前部96还可以包括胸围区域100内的模制左罩杯特征120和模制右罩杯特征118,其定向在拉伸区B中以接受热处理、压缩或其他后加工处理。在一些方面中,工程化针织胸罩116的多个区内的一个或更多个一体式针织结构可以包括提花结构,该提花结构将不同的纱线插入到不同的位置中以在锁定区A和锁定区C以及拉伸区B内形成图形。在一个方面中,提花结构的分区位置,诸如拉伸区B内的左罩杯特征120和右罩杯特征118,可以改变拉伸区B内的弹性模量。例如,拉伸区B内的一个或更多个提花结构可以增加拉伸区B的至少一部分内的弹性模量,而在另一示例中,拉伸区B内的一个或更多个提花结构可以减少拉伸区B的至少一部分内的弹性模量。从图8的后视图,工程化针织胸罩116被示出具有胸罩前部片料122,该胸罩前部片料122可以包括在内表面和外表面上的相同的或不同的特性。例如,胸罩前部片料122可以在内表面上呈现与在外前部区域D和外翼部区域E上呈现的不同的手感(例如,对应于特定摩擦系数的织物感觉)。在一个方面中,外部织物感觉,诸如凸起的一体式结构和/或工程化线迹结构的特定定向,可以根据特定位置或功能在前部区域D内变化,而胸罩前部片料122包括工程化针织特征,该工程化针织特征在内表面上提供不同的(例如,更光滑的)表面。在另一方面中,如图9中所示出的,组装的工程化针织胸罩116可以包括与胸罩内部片料124相对的胸罩前部片料122,并且在每个片料之间具有用于提供适度、支撑、增强的材料感觉的至少一个口袋126,和/或用于插入胸罩罩杯衬里的内腔。According to one aspect, once assembled, as shown in FIG. 7 , an engineered knit bra 116 can include a bra back portion 64 coupled to a bra front portion 96 having pre-configured lock zones A and C and stretch zones B reinforced by additional integral knit structure. The bra front portion 96 can also include molded left and right cup features 120 and 118 within the bust region 100, oriented in stretch zone B to receive heat treatment, compression, or other post-processing treatments. In some aspects, one or more integral knit structures within various zones of the engineered knit bra 116 can include a jacquard structure that inserts different yarns in different locations to create a pattern within the lock zones A and C and stretch zone B. In one aspect, the zoned location of the jacquard structure, such as the left and right cup features 120 and 118 within stretch zone B, can alter the elastic modulus within stretch zone B. For example, one or more jacquard structures within stretch zone B can increase the elastic modulus within at least a portion of stretch zone B, while in another example, one or more jacquard structures within stretch zone B can reduce the elastic modulus within at least a portion of stretch zone B. From a rear view of Figure 8, an engineered knit bra 116 is shown having a bra front panel 122 that can include the same or different properties on the inner and outer surfaces. For example, the bra front panel 122 can present a different feel (e.g., a fabric feel corresponding to a specific coefficient of friction) on the inner surface than on the outer front region D and the outer wing regions E. In one aspect, the outer fabric feel, such as the specific orientation of the raised integral structure and/or the engineered stitch structure, can vary within the front region D according to a specific location or function, while the bra front panel 122 includes engineered knit features that provide a different (e.g., smoother) surface on the inner surface. In another aspect, as shown in FIG. 9 , an assembled engineered knit bra 116 can include a bra front panel 122 opposed to a bra interior panel 124 and having at least one pocket 126 between each panel for providing fit, support, enhanced material feel, and/or an interior cavity for inserting a bra cup liner.
现在转到图10的示例,可以从编织材料130切割工程化编织胸罩128的俯视图,该编织材料130包括多个预先构造的锁定区和拉伸区,其沿着胸罩主体132的前部区域和后部区域在整个材料130上改变拉伸特性。例如,胸罩主体132可以包括对应于具有来自编织结构和/或纱线类型的编织锁定区C特性的后部箍带区域的第一区134,该第一区134邻近对应于具有来自编织结构和/或纱线类型的编织拉伸区B特性的中后部区域的第二区136。为了方便起见,编织区特性在下文中可以称为区。10 , a top view of an engineered knit bra 128 can be cut from a knit material 130 that includes a plurality of pre-configured lock and stretch zones that vary stretch properties across the material 130 along the front and back regions of a bra body 132. For example, the bra body 132 can include a first zone 134 corresponding to a rear cuff region having knit lock zone C properties from the knit structure and/or yarn type, adjacent to a second zone 136 corresponding to a mid-back region having knit stretch zone B properties from the knit structure and/or yarn type. For convenience, knit zone properties may be referred to hereinafter as zones.
此外,第二部分136可以邻近第三部分138,该第三部分138对应于也具有编织锁定区A特性的条带区域,而对应于具有编织拉伸区B特性的胸围区域的第四部分140也毗邻第三部分138的条带区域。胸罩主体132还包括邻近第四部分140的第五部分142,其中第五部分142对应于具有第三锁定区C特性的前部箍带区域,该第三锁定区C特性来自编织结构和/或纱线类型。Additionally, the second portion 136 may be adjacent to a third portion 138 corresponding to a strap area that also has the knitted Locking Zone A characteristic, while a fourth portion 140 corresponding to a bust area that has the knitted Stretch Zone B characteristic is also adjacent to the strap area of the third portion 138. The bra body 132 also includes a fifth portion 142 adjacent to the fourth portion 140, wherein the fifth portion 142 corresponds to a front cuff area that has the third Locking Zone C characteristic resulting from the knit structure and/or yarn type.
在编织材料130期间,诸如在材料组装方向150上沿着与前边缘146相对的工作边缘148编织,工程化编织胸罩128的每个部分可以被编织以包括至少一个锁定区特性或拉伸区特性,该锁定区特性或拉伸区特性跨过胸罩主体132的多个区而被承载。例如,至少一根普通经编纱线可以从前边缘146延续到工作边缘148,而胸罩主体132的每个部分被工程化以提供特定的锁定区A和锁定区C以及拉伸区B的特性。胸罩主体132的编织材料在编织材料130内具有外胸罩边缘144,该胸罩主体132的编织材料包括邻近的拉伸区和锁定区之间的无缝过渡,其中锁定和拉伸特性(即,每个区的预先构造的编织结构和/或纱线类型)被动态地调节以对应于工程化编织胸罩128的条带区域、胸围区域、箍带区域和罩杯区域。During knitting of the material 130, such as along a working edge 148 opposite the front edge 146 in the material assembly direction 150, each portion of the engineered knitted bra 128 can be knitted to include at least one lock zone characteristic or stretch zone characteristic that is carried across multiple zones of the bra body 132. For example, at least one common warp knit yarn can continue from the front edge 146 to the working edge 148, with each portion of the bra body 132 being engineered to provide specific lock zone A and lock zone C and stretch zone B characteristics. The knitted material of the bra body 132 has an outer bra edge 144 within the knitted material 130, the knitted material of the bra body 132 including a seamless transition between adjacent stretch and lock zones, wherein the lock and stretch characteristics (i.e., the pre-configured knit structure and/or yarn type of each zone) are dynamically adjusted to correspond to the strap, bust, cuff, and cup regions of the engineered knitted bra 128.
如图10的示例中所示出的,示例性胸罩主体132可以包括第一条带152、第二条带154、一对后部翼部边缘156、一对前部翼部边缘158、第一罩杯区域160、第二罩杯区域162和孔164。如图11中所示出的,胸罩主体132可以被定向使得组装的工程化编织胸罩166包括靠近穿用者的肩部的条带区域处的锁定区A特性、邻近条带区域并围绕穿用者的胸围的拉伸区B特性、以及在穿用者的胸围线下方的箍带区域处的锁定区C特性。类似地,在图12中,锁定区A和锁定区C以及拉伸区B相对于组装的工程化编织胸罩166的前侧面和后侧面两者的定向提供了编织支撑和稳定性,该编织支撑和稳定性通过胸罩主体132的条带和胸部箍带区域附近的锁定区来限制运动,同时(并且作为同一编织材料130的部分)提供编织拉伸特性,以允许经由胸罩主体132的胸围和中后部区域附近的拉伸区进行成形和/或结构化。因此,编织胸罩可以通过一种或更多种编织技术来工程化,以包括另外的功能特征,诸如向相应的锁定区或拉伸区提供锁定或拉伸的一体式编织结构。例如,另外的一体式编织结构可以提供与编织内部片料170相对的编织外部片料168,该编织内部片料170包括用于将罩杯衬里或其他特征定位在胸罩前部内侧的内部口袋172。此外,在一个方面中,组装的工程化编织胸罩166可以被编织用于具有最小缝合的组装,诸如在后部翼部边缘156和前部翼部边缘158之间的单个接缝174,同时仍然包括另外的编织层或一体式编织结构,诸如一体式口袋172。10 , an exemplary bra body 132 may include a first strap 152, a second strap 154, a pair of rear wing edges 156, a pair of front wing edges 158, a first cup region 160, a second cup region 162, and an aperture 164. As shown in FIG11 , the bra body 132 may be oriented such that an assembled engineered knit bra 166 includes a Lock-Down Zone A feature at the strap areas proximate the wearer's shoulders, a Stretch Zone B feature adjacent the strap areas and around the wearer's bust, and a Lock-Down Zone C feature at the cuff area below the wearer's bust line. Similarly, in Figure 12, the orientation of the locking zones A and C and the stretch zones B relative to the front and back sides of the assembled engineered woven brassiere 166 provides woven support and stability that restricts movement through the locking zones near the straps and chest cuff areas of the brassiere body 132, while also providing woven stretch properties (and as part of the same woven material 130) to allow shaping and/or structuring via the stretch zones near the bust and mid-back areas of the brassiere body 132. Thus, a woven brassiere can be engineered by one or more woven techniques to include additional functional features, such as an integral woven structure that provides locking or stretching to the corresponding locking zones or stretch zones. For example, an additional integral woven structure can provide a woven outer sheet 168 relative to a woven inner sheet 170 that includes an inner pocket 172 for positioning a cup lining or other feature inside the front of the brassiere. Additionally, in one aspect, the assembled engineered woven bra 166 can be woven for assembly with minimal seaming, such as a single seam 174 between the back wing edge 156 and the front wing edge 158 , while still including additional woven layers or integral woven structures, such as an integral pocket 172 .
尽管在图10至图12中被描绘为具有靠近组装的工程化编织胸罩166的胸部箍带区域的锁定区C,但是胸罩的前部箍带区域或后部箍带区域的至少一部分可以包括与一个或更多个一体式编织结构相关联的分区锁定特性。例如,沿着锁定区C的中线部分,胸罩主体132的至少一部分可以包括一体式锁定结构,该一体式锁定结构改变锁定区C内沿着一致的纬编纱线的锁定的量。在另一方面中,具有贯穿编织的经编纱线和纬编纱线的拉伸区B特性也可以包括对应于一个或更多个一体式编织结构的分区拉伸性能。Although depicted in Figures 10-12 as having a locking zone C proximate the chest cuff area of the assembled engineered knit bra 166, at least a portion of the front cuff area or the back cuff area of the bra can include zoned locking characteristics associated with one or more integral knit structures. For example, along a midline portion of the locking zone C, at least a portion of the bra body 132 can include an integral locking structure that varies the amount of locking along a consistent weft yarn within the locking zone C. In another aspect, the stretch zone B characteristics of the warp and weft yarns knitted throughout can also include zoned stretch properties corresponding to one or more integral knit structures.
在编织胸罩主体132的另外的方面中,编织材料130的特定部分的另外的后加工处理可以进一步构造组装的胸罩166的不同特征,而无需联接另外的件(例如,将另外的结构或式样件缝合或粘附到现有胸罩主体132)。例如,图13的第一罩杯区域176和第二罩杯区域178可以被模制以在拉伸区B内提供结构化支撑,并且在邻近的锁定区A和锁定区C中没有增加的编织特性的刚性。第四部分140的胸围区域内的结构化支撑还可以包括插入材料130内的沿着x轴产生工程化编织结构的改变的一根或更多根另外或可替代的纬编纱线。因此,在一个方面中,具有特定编织结构(例如,经由纱线类型、编织技术等“工程化”)的一系列锁定区可以相对于具有特定编织结构(例如,经由不同纱线类型和/或编织技术“工程化”)的交替的、邻近的拉伸区而变化。在一个方面中,编织锁定区可以被工程化成具有特定的纱线密度、编织结构和/或纱线组成之间的改变,诸如硬纱线或拉伸纱线。In other aspects of the braided bra body 132, additional post-processing of specific portions of the braided material 130 can further construct different features of the assembled bra 166 without having to attach additional pieces (e.g., sewing or adhering additional structural or styling pieces to the existing bra body 132). For example, the first cup region 176 and the second cup region 178 of FIG. 13 can be molded to provide structural support within the stretch zone B without the increased rigidity of the braid characteristics in the adjacent locking zones A and C. The structural support within the bust region of the fourth portion 140 can also include one or more additional or alternative weft yarns inserted into the material 130 to produce a change in the engineered braid structure along the x-axis. Thus, in one aspect, a series of locking zones having a specific braid structure (e.g., "engineered" via yarn type, braiding technique, etc.) can be varied relative to alternating, adjacent stretch zones having a specific braid structure (e.g., "engineered" via different yarn types and/or braiding techniques). In one aspect, the braided locking zone can be engineered to have a specific yarn density, braid structure, and/or variation between yarn compositions, such as hard yarns or stretch yarns.
参考图14,在编织胸罩180中描绘了变化区的一个这样的示例,其中预先构造的锁定区和拉伸区沿着胸罩主体182定向。在该示例中,胸罩主体182包括第一胸罩区域184、第二胸罩区域186、第三胸罩区域188和第四胸罩区域190,以及与后部边缘194相对的前部边缘192、领口边缘196、一对后部翼部边缘198和一对前部翼部边缘200。在该示例中,第一胸罩区域184和第三胸罩区域188可以包括相同或相似的拉伸特性,诸如减少的工程化拉伸的量(即,防止拉伸的锁定材料),而第二胸罩区域186和第四胸罩区域190可以包括相同或相似的增强拉伸特征。可替代地,胸罩的每个功能方面可以包括不同程度的工程化性能,诸如具有可模制的四向拉伸的前部区F,该前部区F具有与纱芯适度纬编纱线成一体的热敏纬编纱线,该前部区F可以邻近具有例如通过编织技术和/或硬纱线插入提供的完全锁定的条带区G。另外,邻近条带区G的上后部区H可以包括具有增强的透气性和适度拉伸的较轻的编织纱线,而邻近的下后部区I可以被工程化以经由纱线插入和/或编织特性提供至少部分锁定。14 , one such example of a variation zone is depicted in a knitted bra 180, wherein pre-configured locking and stretch zones are oriented along a bra body 182. In this example, the bra body 182 includes a first bra region 184, a second bra region 186, a third bra region 188, and a fourth bra region 190, as well as a front edge 192 opposite a back edge 194, a neckline edge 196, a pair of back wing edges 198, and a pair of front wing edges 200. In this example, the first bra region 184 and the third bra region 188 may include the same or similar stretch properties, such as a reduced amount of engineered stretch (i.e., a locking material that prevents stretch), while the second bra region 186 and the fourth bra region 190 may include the same or similar enhanced stretch features. Alternatively, each functional aspect of the brassiere can include different degrees of engineered properties, such as a front zone F with moldable four-way stretch having heat-sensitive weft-knitted yarns integrated with core moderate weft-knitted yarns, which can be adjacent to a strap zone G with full lockdown provided, for example, by knitting techniques and/or hard yarn insertion. Additionally, an upper back zone H adjacent to strap zone G can include lighter knitted yarns with enhanced breathability and moderate stretch, while the adjacent lower back zone I can be engineered to provide at least partial lockdown via yarn insertion and/or knitting properties.
接下来转到图15,根据一个方面,提供了示例性工程化编织胸罩202的前视图,该工程化编织胸罩202具有整合在编织材料内的预先构造的锁定区和拉伸区、支撑通道和罩杯口袋。胸罩主体204包括邻近具有内部口袋208的第一罩杯210的第一条带区域206,以及沿着罩杯210的下部部分的第一通道212,该第一通道212包括用于接纳钢圈、缆线和/或其他支撑结构的内腔228。胸罩主体204还包括邻近具有内部口袋208的第二罩杯216的第二条带区域218,以及沿着罩杯216的下部部分的第二通道214,第二通道214包括用于接纳钢圈、缆线和/或其他支撑结构的内腔226。围绕第一罩杯210和第二罩杯216的胸罩主体204可以包括箍带区域220、中间区域222和翼部区域224,以及一个或更多个工程化编织特征,包括具有锁定区特性和/或拉伸区特性的一个或更多个区域。例如,翼部区域224、中间区域222和/或箍带区域220的至少一部分可以包括编织锁定区特性(即,减小的拉伸、硬的纱线等),而第一罩杯210和第二罩杯216可以在预先构造的位置处包括编织拉伸区特性。15 , a front view of an exemplary engineered woven brassiere 202 is provided, according to one aspect, having pre-configured lock and stretch zones, support channels, and cup pockets integrated into the woven material. The brassiere body 204 includes a first strap region 206 adjacent to a first cup 210 having an interior pocket 208, and a first channel 212 along a lower portion of the cup 210, the first channel 212 including an interior cavity 228 for receiving an underwire, cables, and/or other support structure. The brassiere body 204 also includes a second strap region 218 adjacent to a second cup 216 having an interior pocket 208, and a second channel 214 along a lower portion of the cup 216, the second channel 214 including an interior cavity 226 for receiving an underwire, cables, and/or other support structure. The bra body 204 surrounding the first cup 210 and the second cup 216 can include a cuff region 220, a middle region 222, and a wing region 224, as well as one or more engineered knit features, including one or more regions having a lock zone property and/or a stretch zone property. For example, at least a portion of the wing region 224, the middle region 222, and/or the cuff region 220 can include a knit lock zone property (i.e., reduced stretch, stiff yarn, etc.), while the first cup 210 and the second cup 216 can include a knit stretch zone property at pre-configured locations.
如图16的横截面视图230中进一步描绘的,工程化编织胸罩202可以包括单层或多层编织材料,其在工程化胸罩主体204内提供开口,诸如在口袋层232和第一罩杯210之间以及在口袋层234和第二罩杯216之间产生的内部口袋208。根据一个方面,第一罩杯210和第二罩杯216外侧的以及在第一通道212和第二通道214的内边缘之间的胸罩主体204可以被表征为具有单层。参考图16中的视图,在一个方面中,胸罩主体204在第一通道212和第二通道214之间的中间部分包括类似于外部翼部区域224的整体编织结构。然而,如图17A至图17B的横截面视图236中所示出的,中间区域222可以包括与周围胸罩主体204成一体的另外的编织结构238,诸如在编织胸罩主体204内提供通气的一系列穿孔240。在该示例中,如图17B中所示出的,穿孔238可以是胸罩主体204内的任何编织或一体式结构,其被构造成在预先构造的位置处提供中间区域222内的特定功能。如此,编织技术、纱线类型、插入分区纱线布置等的改变可以用于在工程化编织胸罩202内产生另外的功能特征,而不需要进一步组装或附接到胸罩主体204。As further depicted in cross-sectional view 230 of FIG. 16 , the engineered knit bra 202 can include a single or multiple layers of knit material that provide openings within the engineered bra body 204, such as the internal pockets 208 created between the pocket layer 232 and the first cup 210 and between the pocket layer 234 and the second cup 216. According to one aspect, the bra body 204 outside the first cup 210 and the second cup 216, and between the inner edges of the first channel 212 and the second channel 214, can be characterized as having a single layer. Referring to the view in FIG. 16 , in one aspect, the middle portion of the bra body 204 between the first channel 212 and the second channel 214 includes a unitary knit structure similar to the outer wing region 224. However, as shown in cross-sectional view 236 of FIG. 17A-17B , the middle region 222 can include additional knit structure 238 integral with the surrounding bra body 204, such as a series of perforations 240 that provide ventilation within the knit bra body 204. 17B , the perforations 238 can be any woven or integral structure within the bra body 204 that is configured to provide a specific function within the intermediate region 222 at a preconfigured location. In this way, changes in knitting techniques, yarn types, inserted zoned yarn arrangements, etc. can be used to create additional functional features within the engineered knit bra 202 without requiring further assembly or attachment to the bra body 204.
如图15的示例中所示出的,提供罩杯口袋、槽形腔、通风结构和/或区带状支撑的工程化胸罩结构的一体式编织可以通过工程化编织胸罩202的多个方面来实现,对胸罩主体204内多个区的期望特征进行工程化,而不是插入、缝合、缝制和/或结合具有拉伸区和锁定区两者的编织胸罩的功能方面。此外,胸罩主体204的工程化编织特性可以对应于多种纱线密度、编织结构、硬纱线布置、拉伸纱线布置或这样的方面的组合,以产生胸罩的多个区域的锁定或拉伸的最佳程度。As shown in the example of Figure 15, the integral knitting of an engineered bra structure that provides cup pockets, channel cavities, ventilation structures, and/or zonal support can be achieved through various aspects of an engineered knit bra 202, engineering desired features for multiple zones within the bra body 204, rather than inserting, sewing, stitching, and/or incorporating functional aspects of a knit bra with both stretch and lock zones. Furthermore, the engineered knit properties of the bra body 204 can correspond to a variety of yarn densities, knit structures, hard yarn arrangements, stretch yarn arrangements, or combinations of such aspects to produce an optimal degree of lock or stretch in multiple zones of the bra.
最后参考图18,根据一个方面,组装的工程化编织胸罩242的前透视图包括图15中的工程化编织胸罩202的胸罩前部结构,该胸罩前部结构联接到胸罩后部244,该胸罩后部244具有在相应条带接缝248处接合第一条带区域206和第二条带区域218的条带246。在穿用构型中,胸罩242的上端部250被定位成与下端部252相对。编织胸罩240的前部可以包括模制罩杯特征254,其进一步向第一罩杯210和第二罩杯216提供结构。图18的透视图还描绘了形成在口袋层232和第一罩杯210之间以及口袋层234和第二罩杯216之间的内部口袋208。在一个方面中,基于沿着第一罩杯210和第二罩杯216两者的顶部编织开口边缘,模制罩杯特征254的内部口袋208可以用于接纳另外的衬里、成形、提升或适度增强的特征,而不必缝制在口袋结构上或切割到胸罩主体204的编织材料中。Finally, referring to FIG18 , a front perspective view of an assembled engineered knit bra 242 includes the bra front structure of the engineered knit bra 202 of FIG15 coupled to a bra back 244 having straps 246 joining the first strap region 206 and the second strap region 218 at respective strap seams 248, according to one aspect. In the wear configuration, the upper end 250 of the bra 242 is positioned opposite the lower end 252. The front of the knitted bra 240 can include molded cup features 254 that further provide structure to the first cup 210 and the second cup 216. The perspective view of FIG18 also depicts the interior pockets 208 formed between the pocket layer 232 and the first cup 210, and between the pocket layer 234 and the second cup 216. In one aspect, based on the top knit open edges along both the first cup 210 and the second cup 216, the interior pocket 208 of the molded cup feature 254 can be used to receive additional lining, shaping, lifting, or modest reinforcement features without having to sew onto the pocket structure or cut into the knit material of the bra body 204.
在另一示例中,各种槽形结构、口袋/腔、通风特征、支撑结构、锁定区、拉伸区、单层特征、双层特征、压缩特征、模具特性、纱线插入技术、一体式结构或其他多种可用的编织技术可以用作工程化编织胸罩的部分。另外,关于工程化编织胸罩描述的这样的特性的至少一部分可以进一步在工程化针织胸罩的一个或更多个方面内利用,并且反之亦然。例如,在胸罩材料跨过同一行材料在单层和双层之间转换的情况下,可以设想工程化针织和工程化编织实施方案两者都可以利用这样的技术。类似地,当生产口袋结构、槽形结构、通风结构等时,本文中的方面包括将所述结构中的每一个并入到工程化针织或工程化编织胸罩服装中。In another example, various channel structures, pockets/cavities, ventilation features, support structures, locking areas, stretch zones, single-layer features, double-layer features, compression features, mold features, yarn insertion technology, one-piece structures or other multiple available knitting technologies can be used as parts of engineered knitted bras. In addition, at least a portion of such characteristics described with respect to engineered knitted bras can be further utilized within one or more aspects of engineered knitted bras, and vice versa. For example, in the case where the bra material is converted between a single layer and a double layer across the same row of material, it is conceivable that both engineered knitting and engineered knitting embodiments can utilize such technology. Similarly, when producing pocket structures, channel structures, ventilation structures, etc., aspects herein include incorporating each of the structures into an engineered knitted or engineered knitted brassiere garment.
在工程化针织或工程化编织胸罩的另外的方面中,多个支撑区的弹性模量可以根据具体的锁定区或拉伸区的预先构造的布置而变化。例如,第一弹性模量可以分配给沿着材料的底部边缘的处于预先构造的第一位置中的第一支撑区。另外,第二弹性模量可以分配给邻近第一支撑区的预先构造的第二位置中的第二支撑区。在一些方面中,胸罩结构可以包括对应于特定支撑区的特定弹性模量,诸如用于锁定区的预定范围内的弹性模量和用于拉伸区的预定范围内的弹性模量。为了进一步修改这样的弹性特性,区内的针织或编织方面可以包括工程化特征以修改支撑区的特定部分,诸如包括胸部支撑工程化特征的胸围部分和包括翼部支撑工程化特征的翼部部分。在一些方面中,工程化针织或工程化编织胸罩的锁定区可以包括从初始位置起最多20%的拉伸,而邻近的拉伸区可以被构造为允许相对于拉伸区的至少一部分拉伸大于20%。如以上所讨论的,胸罩内每个区的变化的弹性模量可以由一个或多个工程化因素决定,诸如纱线选择以识别拉伸纱线的特定尺寸,以实现模量的期望改变。In further aspects of an engineered knit or engineered woven bra, the elastic moduli of multiple support zones can vary depending on the pre-configured arrangement of specific locking zones or stretch zones. For example, a first elastic modulus can be assigned to a first support zone in a pre-configured first position along the bottom edge of the material. Additionally, a second elastic modulus can be assigned to a second support zone in a pre-configured second position adjacent to the first support zone. In some aspects, the bra structure can include specific elastic moduli corresponding to specific support zones, such as an elastic modulus within a predetermined range for the locking zone and an elastic modulus within a predetermined range for the stretch zone. To further modify such elastic properties, the knitted or woven aspects within the zone can include engineered features to modify specific portions of the support zone, such as a bust portion including a chest support engineered feature and a wing portion including a wing support engineered feature. In some aspects, the locking zone of an engineered knit or engineered woven bra can include a stretch of up to 20% from an initial position, while the adjacent stretch zone can be configured to allow stretching greater than 20% relative to at least a portion of the stretch zone. As discussed above, the varying elastic modulus of each zone within a brassiere can be determined by one or more engineering factors, such as yarn selection to identify specific dimensions of stretch yarn to achieve the desired change in modulus.
因此,在一些方面中,纱线类型(织入或放入)、针织结构和针织张力可以被调节,以在工程化针织胸罩的区中实现期望的锁定或拉伸水平。类似地,纱线类型(在经编和/或纬编方向)、纱线密度和编织结构可以被调整,以在工程化编织胸罩的区中实现期望的锁定或拉伸水平。Thus, in some aspects, the yarn type (woven in or out), knit structure, and knit tension can be adjusted to achieve a desired level of lockdown or stretch in a region of an engineered knit bra. Similarly, the yarn type (in the warp and/or weft directions), yarn density, and knit structure can be adjusted to achieve a desired level of lockdown or stretch in a region of an engineered knit bra.
在整个胸罩前部的多个支撑区中,无论是在工程化针织还是工程化编织方面,共同的特性都可以整合在整个编织或针织材料的结构中,如以上关于工程化针织或编织构造的整体和/或无缝方面所描述的。例如,普通纱线,诸如普通经编纱线或普通纬编纱线,可以延伸跨过工程化胸罩中的多个区。另外,基于跨过多个区延伸的共同特性,共同的整合特征可以贯穿针织或编织胸罩而被承载。例如,普通纱线可以包括在胸罩的多个区内使用的特定材料的单根纬编纱线,同时用于每个区中不同的一体式编织或针织结构。在另一个示例中,共同特性可以是一致的经编纱线,其中区之间变化的工程化特征包括在第一支撑区中具有第一弹性的第一纬编纱线和在第二支撑区域中具有第二弹性的第二纬编纱线,跨过多个区提供整合经编纱线特征而不需要接合或缝合。In multiple support zones throughout the front of the bra, whether in engineered knitting or engineered weaving, common properties can be integrated into the structure of the entire woven or knitted material, as described above with respect to the overall and/or seamless aspects of the engineered knitted or woven construction. For example, a common yarn, such as a common warp knitted yarn or a common weft knitted yarn, can extend across multiple zones in the engineered bra. Additionally, based on the common properties extending across multiple zones, common integrated features can be carried throughout the knitted or woven bra. For example, a common yarn can include a single weft knitted yarn of a specific material used in multiple zones of the bra, while being used for different one-piece woven or knitted structures in each zone. In another example, the common property can be a consistent warp knitted yarn, wherein the engineered features that vary between zones include a first weft knitted yarn having a first elasticity in a first support zone and a second weft knitted yarn having a second elasticity in a second support zone, providing integrated warp knitted yarn features across multiple zones without the need for joining or stitching.
工程化支撑区的另外的方面,诸如参考以上示例性工程化针织和工程化编织胸罩描述的锁定区和拉伸区,包括在第一支撑区中并入不同于第二区的工程化特征的工程化特征。例如,第一编织区可以包括第一整合特征,诸如锁定箍带区域,而第二编织区可以包括第二整合特征,诸如双层编织罩杯区域。在另一个示例中,第一针织区可以包括特定的锁定线迹式样,而第二针织区可以包括特定的拉伸针织线迹式样,从而改变每个区的工程化特征。在另外的方面中,工程化针织或编织胸罩的每个锁定区可以接合到每个邻近的拉伸区,并且可以共享类似的一体式结构和/或工程化特征,用于将弹性模量修改到特定范围,定向胸罩部件(即,罩杯区域、条带区域、箍带区域、翼部区域和/或后部区域)用于最佳组装,并且统一胸罩服装,使得编织或针织材料包括最小化任何修整和/或缝合过程的工程化特征。Other aspects of engineered support areas, such as the locking areas and stretching areas described with reference to exemplary engineered knitting and engineered woven brassieres above, include incorporating into the first support area an engineered feature that is different from the engineered feature of the second area. For example, the first woven area can include a first integrated feature, such as a locking cuff area, and the second woven area can include a second integrated feature, such as a double-layer woven cup area. In another example, the first knitted area can include a specific locking stitch pattern, and the second knitted area can include a specific stretch knitting stitch pattern, thereby changing the engineered feature of each area. In a further aspect, each locking area of an engineered knitted or woven brassiere can be joined to each adjacent stretching area, and similar one-piece structures and/or engineered features can be shared to modify the elastic modulus to a specific range, direct brassiere components (i.e., cup area, strap area, cuff area, wing area and/or back area) for optimal assembly, and unify brassiere garments so that the brassiere or knitted material includes an engineered feature that minimizes any finishing and/or stitching process.
在一些方面中,锁定区和拉伸区的定向可以是竖直的或水平的,这取决于针织或编织材料的构造和胸罩式样特征的布局。例如,尽管示出在直立位置中具有胸罩的宽度沿着针织或编织材料的宽度(x轴)定向,但在一些方面中,胸罩也可以沿着针织或编织材料的长度(y轴)定向。因此,这里描述的工程化针织和工程化编织材料的多个方面可以包括水平或竖直锁定区。类似地,胸罩前部在针织或编织材料内的式样位置可以进一步确定锁定区和拉伸区在胸罩内以及相对于特定胸罩结构(诸如罩杯区域和条带区域)的定向。此外,根据一些方面,本文中描述的针织或编织材料的工程化结构可以包括随后添加到织物中的另外的稳定处理。如此,式样布置和式样处理可以进一步影响工程化胸罩的锁定区和拉伸区的定向和强度。In some aspects, the orientation of the locking zone and the stretch zone can be vertical or horizontal, depending on the structure of the knitted or woven material and the layout of the brassiere pattern features. For example, although the width of the brassiere is shown to be oriented along the width (x-axis) of the knitted or woven material in an upright position, in some aspects, the brassiere can also be oriented along the length (y-axis) of the knitted or woven material. Therefore, the various aspects of the engineered knitted and engineered woven materials described herein can include horizontal or vertical locking zones. Similarly, the pattern position of the brassiere front in the knitted or woven material can further determine the orientation of the locking zone and the stretch zone in the brassiere and relative to a specific brassiere structure (such as cup area and strip area). In addition, according to some aspects, the engineered structure of the knitted or woven material described herein can include additional stabilization treatments that are subsequently added to the fabric. In this way, pattern arrangement and pattern treatment can further affect the orientation and strength of the locking zone and the stretch zone of the engineered brassiere.
另外,如下面参考图19至图23所讨论的,工程化胸罩的方面包括产生在整个材料中具有一体式胸罩功能的工程化针织材料。例如,工程化针织材料可以被构造有一体式胸罩功能,该一体式胸罩功能在针织整体胸罩前部的过程中在工程化针织材料内产生。如此,与工程化针织材料成一体的各种胸罩功能可对应于工程化针织材料内一根或更多根纱线的分区布置和/或分区线迹构造,具有得到的分区特征对应于胸罩前部的具体部分。每个区可以包括一个或更多个在材料的邻近的区之间变化的拉伸特性。这样的分区特征可以包括在工程化胸罩内相邻区之间变化的一个或更多个方向上的弹性模量。因此,在不将单独呈现特定胸罩功能的多个不同针织式样件拼接在一起的情况下,跨过工程化针织材料的宽度(和所得工程化胸罩前部的长度)的纱线和线迹构造的一体式分区定向可以无缝地提供可变支撑和最佳构造,具有沿着胸罩主体的长度(即胸罩材料的宽度)的最小缝合。In addition, as discussed below with reference to Figures 19 to 23, aspects of engineered bras include producing engineered knitted materials that have an integrated brassiere function throughout the material. For example, an engineered knitted material can be constructed with an integrated brassiere function that is generated within the engineered knitted material during the process of knitting the entire brassiere front. Thus, the various brassiere functions integrated with the engineered knitted material can correspond to the partitioned arrangement and/or partitioned stitch construction of one or more yarns within the engineered knitted material, with the resulting partitioned features corresponding to specific portions of the brassiere front. Each zone can include one or more tensile properties that vary between adjacent zones of the material. Such partitioned features can include elastic moduli in one or more directions that vary between adjacent zones within the engineered brassiere. Therefore, without splicing together multiple different knitted pattern pieces that individually present a specific brassiere function, the integrated partitioned orientation of the yarn and stitch construction across the width of the engineered knitted material (and the length of the resulting engineered brassiere front) can seamlessly provide variable support and optimal construction with minimal stitching along the length of the brassiere body (i.e., the width of the brassiere material).
当从工程化针织材料取出一个或更多个工程化针织胸罩前部时,工程化针织胸罩保持工程化针织材料的分区特征,如在胸罩前部内定向,诸如经编针织的工程化针织胸罩前部,当穿用时向使用者提供有针对性的支撑。作为示例,经编针织线迹的第一区带内的特定纱线排列和针织构造可以邻近具有特定纱线排列和针织构造的线迹的第二区带。虽然相同或相似的纱线可以被包括在第一区带和第二区带两者中,但是经编针织构造的一个或更多个方面可以在两个区带之间改变。可替代地,虽然第一区带和第二区带之间相同或相似的针织构造可以保持不变,但是在邻近的区带内针织的一根或更多根纱线可以是不同的。When one or more engineered knit bra fronts are removed from the engineered knit material, the engineered knit bra retains the zoning characteristics of the engineered knit material, such as being oriented within the bra front, such as a warp knitted engineered knit bra front, providing targeted support to the user when worn. As an example, a specific yarn arrangement and knitting construction within a first zone of warp knitted stitches may be adjacent to a second zone of stitches having a specific yarn arrangement and knitting construction. Although the same or similar yarns may be included in both the first zone and the second zone, one or more aspects of the warp knitting construction may change between the two zones. Alternatively, although the same or similar knitting construction may remain unchanged between the first zone and the second zone, one or more yarns knitted in adjacent zones may be different.
如下面参考图19至图23所使用的,特定的纱线、纱线选择、纱线布置和/或纱线排列可以用于指工程化针织胸罩内的纱线的针织位置,并且如此,用于指工程化针织胸罩从其取出的工程化针织材料内的纱线的针织位置。工程化针织纱线可以具有特定旦尼尔差,该旦尼尔差针对(即,选择)工程化胸罩的支撑区内的特定功能。因此,可以选择具有第一旦尼尔差的纱线用于在条带区内针织,而可以选择具有第二旦尼尔差的纱线用于在罩杯区内针织。此外,工程化胸罩中的一根或更多根纱线之间的旦尼尔差的改变也可以在罩杯区中的纱线和胸部箍带区中的纱线之间改变。在一些方面中,工程化胸罩内的纱线布置也可以指特定纱线相对于织物面和织物背面的针织位置。例如,平面工程化针织材料可以包括第一侧面和与第一侧面相对的第二侧面,诸如织物面和织物背面。工程化针织材料的织物面和对应的工程化针织胸罩的织物面可以指当工程化胸罩处于穿用构型时暴露的面向外的纱线排列。此外,工程化针织材料的织物背面和工程化针织胸罩可以指当工程化针织胸罩处于穿用构型时接触穿用者的上身的面向内的纱线排列。在一些情况下,工程化针织材料的织物面和/或织物背面的多种特性可被称为材料“手感”,具有皮肤接触表面(织物背面)和非接触表面(织物前面)两者。As used below with reference to Figures 19 to 23, specific yarn, yarn selection, yarn arrangement and/or yarn arrangement can be used to refer to the knitting position of the yarn in the engineered knit brassiere, and like this, for referring to the knitting position of the yarn in the engineered knit material that the engineered knit brassiere is taken out from it.The engineered knit yarn can have a specific denier difference, and this denier difference is for the specific function in the support area of (that is, selecting) engineered knit brassiere. Therefore, the yarn with the first denier difference can be selected for knitting in the stripe area, and the yarn with the second denier difference can be selected for knitting in the cup area. In addition, the change of the denier difference between one or more yarns in the engineered brassiere can also change between the yarn in the cup area and the yarn in the chest cuff area. In some aspects, the yarn arrangement in the engineered brassiere can also refer to the knitting position of specific yarn relative to fabric face and fabric back. For example, a planar engineered knit material can include a first side and a second side relative to the first side, such as fabric face and fabric back. The fabric face of an engineered knit material and the fabric face of a corresponding engineered knit bra can refer to the outward-facing yarn arrangement that is exposed when the engineered knit bra is in a worn configuration. Additionally, the fabric back face of an engineered knit material and an engineered knit bra can refer to the inward-facing yarn arrangement that contacts the wearer's upper torso when the engineered knit bra is in a worn configuration. In some cases, various properties of the fabric face and/or fabric back face of an engineered knit material can be referred to as the material's "hand," with both a skin-contacting surface (fabric back face) and a non-contacting surface (fabric front face).
为了在工程化针织胸罩内的邻近的区之间提供过渡,邻近的区中的每一个的至少一个线迹可以被针织在一起,诸如以经编针织构造的区带状构型。在一些方面中,基于与邻近的胸罩区的一个或更多个相邻针织线迹互锁的一个或更多个针织线迹,在工程化针织胸罩的邻近的区之间提供无缝过渡。例如,第一工程化针织区的至少一个线迹可以与邻近第一区的第二工程化针织区的至少一个线迹针织。另外,在其他方面中,第一区的一根或更多根纱线可以跨过两个或更多个邻近的区针织,诸如跨过第一区和邻近的第二区两者针织的第一纱线。此外,虽然工程化针织材料的一部分可以在对应于第一纱线和第一线迹构造的第一区中提供第一胸罩功能,但是同一工程化针织材料的另一部分可以在第二区(诸如第二纱线和第二线迹构造)中提供第二胸罩功能。In order to provide transition between adjacent zones in an engineered knitted bra, at least one stitch of each of the adjacent zones can be knitted together, such as in a zone-shaped configuration of a warp knitted structure. In some aspects, based on one or more knitting stitches that are interlocked with one or more adjacent knitting stitches of an adjacent bra zone, a seamless transition is provided between adjacent zones of an engineered knitted bra. For example, at least one stitch of a first engineered knitted zone can be knitted with at least one stitch of a second engineered knitted zone adjacent to the first zone. Additionally, in other aspects, one or more yarns in the first zone can be knitted across two or more adjacent zones, such as a first yarn knitted across both the first zone and the adjacent second zone. Furthermore, although a portion of an engineered knitted material can provide a first brassiere function in a first zone corresponding to a first yarn and a first stitch structure, another portion of the same engineered knitted material can provide a second brassiere function in a second zone (such as a second yarn and a second stitch structure).
工程化针织材料和所取出的工程化针织胸罩可以包括织物面和织物背面,其中织物面和织物背面两者的不同特性对应于具体的纱线选择、经编针织条的数量和/或定向、一根或更多根纱线的纤维组成和/或针织材料内纱线类型的排列。因此,虽然工程化针织胸罩的第一侧面可以具有经由纱线选择和/或线迹构造产生的特定感觉,但是工程化针织胸罩的第二侧面可以具有经由纱线选择和/或线迹构造产生的特定感觉,使得胸罩的内表面可以在构造和组成上不同于胸罩的外表面。在一些情况下,当工程化胸罩处于穿用构型时,织物背面可以是皮肤接触表面,而织物前面被配置为具有与织物背面相比不同的纱线和/或不同的构造的面向外的表面。The engineered knit material and the resulting engineered knit brassiere can include a fabric face and a fabric back, wherein the different properties of the fabric face and the fabric back correspond to a specific yarn selection, the number and/or orientation of the warp knit strips, the fiber composition of one or more yarns, and/or the arrangement of yarn types within the knit material. Thus, while a first side of the engineered knit brassiere can have a specific feel resulting from yarn selection and/or stitch construction, a second side of the engineered knit brassiere can have a specific feel resulting from yarn selection and/or stitch construction such that the interior surface of the brassiere can be different in construction and composition than the exterior surface of the brassiere. In some cases, when the engineered brassiere is in a wear configuration, the fabric back can be the skin-contacting surface, while the fabric front is configured as an outward-facing surface having different yarns and/or a different construction than the fabric back.
在一个示例中,如图19中所示出的,工程化材料300可以包括织物302,该织物302具有沿着水平x轴定向的织物宽度304和沿着竖直y轴定向的织物长度306。示例性工程化材料300被示出具有被标识为用于从织物302取出的式样件的第一工程化胸罩前部308和第二工程化胸罩前部310。如此,第一工程化胸罩前部308和第二工程化胸罩前部310两者的胸罩宽度沿着织物长度306的y轴定向,并且每个工程化胸罩前部的胸罩长度沿着织物宽度304的x轴定向。在一些方面中,工程化胸罩前部308和工程化胸罩前部310沿着织物宽度304定向,使得工程化胸罩内的每个支撑区对应于胸罩前部内的水平区带(即,沿着织物长度306的竖直区带内)。In one example, as shown in FIG19 , an engineered material 300 can include a fabric 302 having a fabric width 304 oriented along a horizontal x-axis and a fabric length 306 oriented along a vertical y-axis. The exemplary engineered material 300 is shown with a first engineered bra front 308 and a second engineered bra front 310 identified as pattern pieces for removal from the fabric 302. Thus, the bra widths of both the first engineered bra front 308 and the second engineered bra front 310 are oriented along the y-axis of the fabric length 306, and the bra lengths of each engineered bra front are oriented along the x-axis of the fabric width 304. In some aspects, the engineered bra front 308 and the engineered bra front 310 are oriented along the fabric width 304 such that each support zone within the engineered bra corresponds to a horizontal zone within the bra front (i.e., within a vertical zone along the fabric length 306).
继续参考图19,工程化针织胸罩前部308、310的方面包括经编针织的工程化织物302的分区构造,工程化针织胸罩308和工程化针织胸罩310从该工程化织物302取出。因此,沿着织物302的织物宽度304,第一区312、第二区314、第三区316、第四区318和第五区320对应于使用可变纱线选择和/或线迹构型产生的经编针织的区带状区域。经编针织织物302内的区中的每一个的针织构造包括针对特定胸罩支撑功能选择的各种纱线和经编针织线迹,诸如胸罩条带区、胸罩罩杯区和胸罩胸部箍带区。在另外的方面中,胸罩内的另外和/或可替代的功能区可以在工程化材料300的针织构造内并根据织物302内的另外和/或可替代的区进行工程化。尽管在图19的示例中被描绘为具有五个预先构造的区(第一区312、第二区314、第三区316、第四区318和第五区320),但是在另外的方面中,工程化材料300可以产生具有向胸罩提供工程化功能的更少或更多数量的区的织物302。织物302还可以被构造为基于织物302的总体宽度沿着织物宽度304包括单个胸罩前部308。可替代地,织物302可以包括足够的材料,以促成跨过织物宽度304的多于两个胸罩前部的构造,其中每个胸罩前部具有与跨过织物宽度304和沿着织物长度306的区带状列的多种工程化区的特征相对应的锁定区和拉伸区。Continuing with reference to FIG19 , aspects of the engineered knit bra fronts 308, 310 include a zoned construction of a warp-knit engineered fabric 302 from which the engineered knit bras 308 and 310 are derived. Thus, along the fabric width 304 of the fabric 302, the first zone 312, the second zone 314, the third zone 316, the fourth zone 318, and the fifth zone 320 correspond to warp-knitted bands created using variable yarn selection and/or stitch configurations. The knit construction of each of the zones within the warp-knit fabric 302 includes various yarns and warp-knit stitches selected for a specific bra support function, such as a bra strap zone, a bra cup zone, and a bra chest cuff zone. In further aspects, additional and/or alternative functional zones within the bra can be engineered within the knit construction of the engineered material 300 and in accordance with the additional and/or alternative zones within the fabric 302. 19 as having five pre-configured zones (a first zone 312, a second zone 314, a third zone 316, a fourth zone 318, and a fifth zone 320), in further aspects, the engineered material 300 can produce a fabric 302 having a fewer or greater number of zones that provide engineered functionality to a bra. The fabric 302 can also be configured to include a single bra front 308 along the fabric width 304 based on the overall width of the fabric 302. Alternatively, the fabric 302 can include sufficient material to facilitate the construction of more than two bra fronts across the fabric width 304, wherein each bra front has locking zones and stretch zones corresponding to the features of the various engineered zones across the fabric width 304 and along the fabric length 306.
第一区312内的工程化锁定可以基于纱线的纤维组成以及第一区312的相应横列(courses)和纵行(wales)内的一定程度的垫纱来提供。在一个方面中,在第一区312内在经编针织中使用的条的数量,结合在第一区312内的垫纱构型以及在第一区312内使用的三根条上的纱线的纤维组成,可以用于为第一区312内的特定胸罩功能产生最佳的伸长和锁定特性。Engineered lockdown within the first region 312 can be provided based on the fiber composition of the yarn and a certain degree of lapping within the corresponding courses and wales of the first region 312. In one aspect, the number of strips used in the warp knit within the first region 312, combined with the lapping configuration within the first region 312 and the fiber composition of the yarns on the three strips used within the first region 312, can be used to produce optimal stretch and lockdown characteristics for a particular bra function within the first region 312.
此外,在图19的示例中,每个区可以被工程化用于工程化锁定区和拉伸区内以及沿着工程化材料300内的特定轴线/方向的特定胸罩支撑功能。这样的纱线选择可以包括具有纤维组成在从50旦尼尔/72丝(50/72)聚酯的阈值范围内的经编针织纱线中的至少一条,以及具有纤维组成在从30旦尼尔/36丝聚酯的阈值范围内的经编针织纱线中的至少一条。在一些方面中,具有50/72聚酯纱线的经编针织条可以被定向以针织织物前部表面,而具有30/36聚酯的经编针织条可以被构造成针织织物后部表面。织物前部和织物后部之间的这样的差异可以提供旦尼尔差,该旦尼尔差使工程化材料300能够将湿气从织物后部转移到织物前部,并且当缝制到具有织物302前部表面的服装(诸如胸罩)中时,沿着切口边缘348从织物302移除的第一胸罩前部308可以保持这样的吸湿性能,该织物302前部表面与具有较小/较细旦尼尔(30/36)的织物302后部表面相比具有较大/较粗旦尼尔(50/72)。经编针织工艺本身可以提供所使用纱线的条的具体定位,使得平面织物302可以包括跨过多个区的工程化特征以及织物302的前部表面和后部表面上的纺织差异。在平面织物302内具有多个区的工程化材料300的一个示例中,第一区312(条带区)和第二区314(罩杯区)包括纱线中的至少三条:靠近织物的前部侧面的长纤维纱线(例如,50/72聚酯,1×1垫纱)、靠近织物的与第一侧面相对的第二侧面的微纤维纱线(例如,30/36,1×3垫纱),以及在整个材料中(例如,70旦尼尔氨纶)用编链线迹针织的氨纶纱线。另外,第三区316(胸部箍带)可以包括纱线中的至少四条:1×1长纤维纱线、1×3微纤维纱线和前两个区的编链线迹氨纶,并且添加衬垫增强纱线(即,硬纱线,诸如30/36聚酯)。19 , each zone can be engineered for specific bra support functions within the engineered lock and stretch zones and along specific axes/directions within the engineered material 300. Such yarn selections can include at least one warp knit yarn having a fiber composition within a threshold range from 50 denier/72 filament (50/72) polyester and at least one warp knit yarn having a fiber composition within a threshold range from 30 denier/36 filament polyester. In some aspects, warp knit strips having 50/72 polyester yarn can be oriented to knit the front surface of the fabric, while warp knit strips having 30/36 polyester can be configured to knit the back surface of the fabric. Such a difference between the fabric front and the fabric back can provide a denier differential that enables the engineered material 300 to transfer moisture from the fabric back to the fabric front, and when sewn into a garment (such as a bra) having a front surface of the fabric 302 having a larger/coarser denier (50/72) than the back surface of the fabric 302 having a smaller/finer denier (30/36), the first bra front 308 removed from the fabric 302 along the cut edge 348 can maintain such moisture wicking properties. The warp knitting process itself can provide for specific positioning of the strips of yarn used, so that the flat fabric 302 can include engineered features across multiple zones and textile differences on the front and back surfaces of the fabric 302. In one example of an engineered material 300 having multiple zones within a flat fabric 302, a first zone 312 (the strip zone) and a second zone 314 (the cup zone) include at least three of the yarns: a long fiber yarn (e.g., 50/72 polyester, 1×1 lapping) near the front side of the fabric, a microfiber yarn (e.g., 30/36, 1×3 lapping) near the second side of the fabric opposite the first side, and a spandex yarn knitted with a chain stitch throughout the material (e.g., 70 denier spandex). Additionally, a third zone 316 (the chest cuff) may include at least four of the yarns: a 1×1 long fiber yarn, a 1×3 microfiber yarn, and the chain stitch spandex of the first two zones, with the addition of a padding reinforcement yarn (i.e., a hard yarn such as 30/36 polyester).
第一区312被构造以提供沿着第一轴线322的工程化锁定材料和沿着第二轴线324的工程化拉伸材料。如此,意图沿着切口边缘348(其最终将成为用于成品胸罩的条带的一部分)取出的织物302的一部分包括第一条带342和第二条带344,该第一条带342和第二条带344针织在第一区312内并呈现出与第一区312的纱线选择和线迹构造两者相对应的工程化材料特性。基于第一区312内的一个或更多个经编针织线迹,第一区312沿着织物宽度304(即,沿着第一胸罩条带342和第二胸罩条带344的长度)可以比沿着织物长度306(即,沿着第一胸罩条带342和第二胸罩条带344的宽度)呈现更小的伸长。在一个方面中,第一区312被工程化以提供沿着第一轴线322(即,沿着织物宽度304)具有伸长15%至25%之间的经编针织工程化锁定材料。在另一方面中,第一区312被工程化以提供沿着第一轴线322具有19%至23%之间的伸长的经编针织工程化锁定材料,而在另外的示例中,沿着第一轴线322的伸长的量可以是20%或低于20%。The first region 312 is configured to provide an engineered locking material along a first axis 322 and an engineered stretch material along a second axis 324. As such, a portion of the fabric 302 intended to be removed along a cut edge 348 (which will ultimately become part of a strap for a finished bra) includes a first strip 342 and a second strip 344 knitted within the first region 312 and exhibiting engineered material properties corresponding to both the yarn selection and stitch configuration of the first region 312. Based on the one or more warp knit stitches within the first region 312, the first region 312 can exhibit less elongation along the fabric width 304 (i.e., along the length of the first and second bra straps 342, 344) than along the fabric length 306 (i.e., along the width of the first and second bra straps 342, 344). In one aspect, the first region 312 is engineered to provide a warp knit engineered locking material having an elongation of between 15% and 25% along the first axis 322 (i.e., along the fabric width 304). In another aspect, the first region 312 is engineered to provide a warp knit engineered locking material having an elongation of between 19% and 23% along the first axis 322, while in other examples, the amount of elongation along the first axis 322 can be 20% or less.
与沿着第一轴线322的锁定相比,沿着第二轴线324的工程化拉伸材料可以提供的伸长的量大于沿着第一轴线322的伸长的量。在一个示例中,沿着第一轴线322的伸长可以包括伸长40%或40%之上的最小量。在另外的方面中,工程化材料300的总体性能可能需要伸长的最小量,使得一旦第一胸罩前部308与胸罩后部相结合,组装的工程化胸罩的穿用者可以能够在没有另外的闭合机构的情况下穿上和脱下胸罩。在一些方面中,沿第二轴线324具有40%或更多伸长的工程化材料在试着穿上/脱下两者期间以及穿用期间,在第一条带342和第二条带344内以及跨过胸罩前部308的宽度提供织物302运动的阈值量。如此,工程化胸罩前部308可以沿着第一轴线322提供稳定功能,同时沿着第二轴线324提供锁定功能。所得到的第一胸罩前部308的不同锁定和拉伸性能可能会随着时间影响服装的穿用强度、经编针织织物前部的美观性、操作胸罩的整体主体时的易用性和/或活动期间的材料弹性。Compared to locking along the first axis 322, the engineered stretch material along the second axis 324 can provide a greater amount of elongation than along the first axis 322. In one example, the elongation along the first axis 322 can include a minimum amount of elongation of 40% or more. In other aspects, the overall performance of the engineered material 300 can require a minimum amount of elongation so that once the first bra front 308 is combined with the bra back, the wearer of the assembled engineered bra can put on and take off the bra without an additional closure mechanism. In some aspects, an engineered material having 40% or more elongation along the second axis 324 provides a threshold amount of movement of the fabric 302 within the first and second straps 342, 344 and across the width of the bra front 308 during both donning/docking attempts and during wear. In this way, the engineered bra front 308 can provide a stabilizing function along the first axis 322 while providing a locking function along the second axis 324. The resulting different locking and stretch properties of the first bra front portion 308 may, over time, affect the wear strength of the garment, the aesthetics of the warp knit fabric front, the ease of handling the overall body of the bra, and/or the elasticity of the material during activity.
在图19的示例性俯视图中,梯度式样特征346对应于第一条带342和第二条带344两者上的共同位置。这样的梯度式样特征346可以使用提花针织式样技术来创建,以将一根或更多根另外的纱线整合在第一胸罩前部308内。在一些方面中,虽然梯度式样特征346可以与工程化材料300一体地经编针织,工程化材料300具有沿着第一轴线322的特定锁定特性和沿着第二轴线324的拉伸特性,但是梯度式样特征346可以影响阈值范围内的伸长的百分比。例如,与梯度式样特征346相关联的伸长的百分比的增加或减少可以对应于伸长的改变的阈值量,以保持高达10%的伸长的改变。In the exemplary top view of FIG19 , a gradient pattern feature 346 corresponds to a common location on both the first strap 342 and the second strap 344. Such a gradient pattern feature 346 can be created using a jacquard knit patterning technique to integrate one or more additional yarns within the first bra front portion 308. In some aspects, while the gradient pattern feature 346 can be warp knitted integrally with the engineered material 300, which has specific locking properties along the first axis 322 and stretch properties along the second axis 324, the gradient pattern feature 346 can affect the percentage of elongation within a threshold range. For example, an increase or decrease in the percentage of elongation associated with the gradient pattern feature 346 can correspond to a threshold amount of change in elongation, maintaining a change in elongation of up to 10%.
在工程化材料300内并沿着织物宽度304过渡时,织物302的第一区312改变至邻近的第二区314。在多个方面中,第二区314内的织物302包括联接到第一区312的一个或更多个经编针织线迹的一个或更多个经编针织线迹。换句话说,来自第一区312的至少一个线迹沿着区带界线360用来自第二区314的至少一个线迹针织。沿着区带界线的每个针织线迹可以包括来自第一区312和第二区314中的一个或两个的纱线。类似地,织物302内的两个或更多个纵行的分组可以包括来自第一区312和第二区314两者的针织线迹的组合。通过接合来自第一区213和第二区314的线迹,工程化材料300保持多个工程化针织分区特性,同时一致的织物302在胸罩支撑特征之间以无缝过渡针织。如下面关于第三区316、第四区318和第五区320所讨论的,工程化材料300沿着织物宽度304和织物长度306在无缝织物302内产生,且具有与沿着织物宽度306布置的特定区相对应的胸罩支撑的区带状特征。Within the engineered material 300 and transitioning along the fabric width 304, a first zone 312 of the fabric 302 transitions to an adjacent second zone 314. In various aspects, the fabric 302 within the second zone 314 includes one or more warp knit stitches coupled to one or more warp knit stitches of the first zone 312. In other words, at least one stitch from the first zone 312 is knitted with at least one stitch from the second zone 314 along the zone boundary 360. Each knit stitch along the zone boundary can include yarn from one or both of the first zone 312 and the second zone 314. Similarly, a grouping of two or more wales within the fabric 302 can include a combination of knit stitches from both the first zone 312 and the second zone 314. By joining stitches from the first zone 213 and the second zone 314, the engineered material 300 maintains multiple engineered knit zone properties while the consistent fabric 302 is knitted with a seamless transition between bra support features. As discussed below with respect to the third zone 316 , the fourth zone 318 , and the fifth zone 320 , the engineered material 300 is created within the seamless fabric 302 along the fabric width 304 and the fabric length 306 , with zonal features of bra support corresponding to specific zones arranged along the fabric width 306 .
织物302的无缝针织结构包括沿着织物宽度304的多个过渡,这些过渡对应于沿着胸罩长度的支撑功能过渡。在图19的示例中,区带界线360被描绘为第一区312的纱线选择和/或线迹构造与第二区314的可变纱线选择和/或线迹构造之间的无缝过渡的表示,并且不表示材料接缝或预期的切口边缘。类似地,随后的区带界线362、380和382表示跨过经编针织织物302的无缝材料过渡,且具有产生工程化材料300的纱线类型和/或线迹构造的过渡。在第二区314内,类似于第一区312,第一工程化胸罩前部308包括第一胸罩前部308的罩杯区域,该罩杯区域具有示例性切口边缘352,该切口边缘352界定了预期切口的工程化胸罩前部在从织物302移除时的界线。第二区314包括与纱线的纤维组成/纱线和第二区314的针织横列和纵行内的一定程度的垫纱相对应的工程化拉伸特征。在一些方面中,在第二区314内在经编针织中使用的条的数量,与第二区314内特定纱线的垫纱构造相结合,以及在第二区314内使用的条上纱线的纤维组成,可以被工程化以在胸罩前部308的罩杯区域内提供材料伸长的阈值水平(即,拉伸的阈值水平)。换句话说,伸长的最佳水平可以被实现以提供特定的胸罩功能,诸如第二区314内的罩杯区域支撑。The seamless knit structure of fabric 302 includes multiple transitions along fabric width 304 that correspond to transitions in support functionality along the length of the bra. In the example of FIG. 19 , zone boundary 360 is depicted as a representation of a seamless transition between the yarn selection and/or stitch configuration of first zone 312 and the variable yarn selection and/or stitch configuration of second zone 314, and does not represent a material seam or intended cut edge. Similarly, subsequent zone boundaries 362, 380, and 382 represent seamless material transitions across warp knit fabric 302 and have transitions in yarn type and/or stitch configuration that create engineered material 300. Within second zone 314, similar to first zone 312, first engineered bra front 308 includes a cup region of first bra front 308 having an exemplary cut edge 352 that defines the boundary of the intended cut of the engineered bra front when removed from fabric 302. The second zone 314 includes engineered stretch characteristics corresponding to the fiber composition of the yarn/yarn and a certain degree of lapping within the knit courses and wales of the second zone 314. In some aspects, the number of strips used in the warp knitting within the second zone 314, combined with the lapping configuration of the particular yarn within the second zone 314, and the fiber composition of the yarn in the strips used within the second zone 314, can be engineered to provide a threshold level of material elongation (i.e., a threshold level of stretch) within the cup area of the bra front 308. In other words, an optimal level of elongation can be achieved to provide a specific bra function, such as cup area support within the second zone 314.
第二区314内的拉伸/伸长特性对应于第二区314内的一种或更多种纱线选择和/或线迹构造特性,诸如被经编针织以提供罩杯区域350的一根或更多根纱线的纤维组成。如此,第二区314可以包括类似于上面关于第一区312所讨论的长纤维/微纤维/氨纶组合。第二区314内的纱线被针织以提供用于胸罩罩杯区域的工程化拉伸部分,且具有沿着第三轴线326和第四轴线328的拉伸的阈值量。在一些方面中,罩杯区域350被构造成最小化沿着第三轴线326(即,沿着织物宽度304和第一胸罩前部308的长度)的伸长,且具有支撑穿用者的乳房的体积以及适应织物302的模制的这样的伸长。因此,虽然不需要一定程度的锁定,但是在第二区314内提供的拉伸的量可以维持用于胸罩功能/支撑和材料外观两者的伸长的阈值水平。The stretch/elongation properties within the second zone 314 correspond to one or more yarn selection and/or stitch construction properties within the second zone 314, such as the fiber composition of the one or more yarns warp-knitted to provide the cup region 350. Thus, the second zone 314 can include a long fiber/microfiber/spandex combination similar to that discussed above with respect to the first zone 312. The yarns within the second zone 314 are knitted to provide an engineered stretch portion for the bra cup region, with a threshold amount of stretch along the third axis 326 and the fourth axis 328. In some aspects, the cup region 350 is configured to minimize elongation along the third axis 326 (i.e., along the fabric width 304 and the length of the first bra front portion 308), with such elongation supporting the volume of the wearer's breasts and accommodating the molding of the fabric 302. Thus, while a certain degree of locking is not required, the amount of stretch provided within the second zone 314 can maintain a threshold level of elongation for both bra function/support and material appearance.
第二区314内的织物302包括织物302的未式样化部分356,而没有另外的提花梯度式样354。在一些示例中,织物302可以被工程化以基于纱线选择、针织构造和/或提花式样纱线的存在或不存在来提供拉伸的特定水平。在一些方面中,因为梯度式样354通过在前部纱线中针织孔来创建,以提供后部纱线的图形显示,所以未式样化部分356可以提供织物302的较高密度的区域,而梯度式样354可以提供织物302的较低密度的区域。因此,梯度式样354的量可以影响织物302沿着第三轴线326和第四轴线328中的一个或更多个的伸长。在示例性的第一胸罩前部308中,梯度式样346和354可以相对于胸罩对称界线358定位在工程化材料300的织物302内,提供对应于胸罩前部的左侧部(第一条带342)和右侧部(第二条带344)的伸长、锁定和拉伸的相等的改变。The fabric 302 within the second zone 314 includes an unpatterned portion 356 of the fabric 302 without an additional jacquard gradient pattern 354. In some examples, the fabric 302 can be engineered to provide a specific level of stretch based on yarn selection, knit configuration, and/or the presence or absence of jacquard pattern yarns. In some aspects, because the gradient pattern 354 is created by knitting holes in the front yarns to provide a graphic display of the back yarns, the unpatterned portion 356 can provide a higher density area of the fabric 302, while the gradient pattern 354 can provide a lower density area of the fabric 302. Thus, the amount of gradient pattern 354 can affect the elongation of the fabric 302 along one or more of the third axis 326 and the fourth axis 328. In the exemplary first bra front 308, gradient patterns 346 and 354 can be positioned within the fabric 302 of the engineered material 300 relative to the bra symmetry boundary 358 to provide equal changes in elongation, lock, and stretch corresponding to the left side (first strap 342) and right side (second strap 344) of the bra front.
第二区314的方面被构造以提供沿着第三轴线326的工程化拉伸材料和沿着第四轴线328的工程化拉伸材料。如此,意图沿着切口边缘350取出的织物302的一部分最终可能成为成品胸罩的罩杯区域,且针织有第二区314特性,该第二区314特性对应于纱线选择和线迹构造两者,并且有助于伸长的阈值水平,使得罩杯的工程化材料可以被模制。第二区314的罩杯区域也被针织以提供支撑穿用者的工程化针织构造。Aspects of the second zone 314 are configured to provide engineered stretch material along the third axis 326 and engineered stretch material along the fourth axis 328. In this manner, a portion of the fabric 302 intended to be removed along the cut edge 350 may ultimately become the cup area of a finished brassiere and be knitted with second zone 314 properties that correspond to both yarn selection and stitch configuration and contribute to a threshold level of elongation so that the engineered material of the cup can be molded. The cup area of the second zone 314 is also knitted to provide an engineered knit construction that supports the wearer.
在一个方面中,第二区314被工程化以提供沿着第三轴线326和第四轴线328两者具有35%至45%伸长的经编针织的工程化拉伸材料。在另一示例中,第二区314在罩杯区域的至少一部分中包括40%的伸长。第二区314内的梯度式样354可以使用提花针织技术来创建,以改变一根或更多根纱线相对于对称界线358的位置。由于工程化材料300的针织结构,第一胸罩前部318的罩杯区域在织物302内包括固有拉伸的量。因此,另外的针织和/或梯度式样技术可以被包括在第二区314内,以影响沿着织物宽度304(即,沿着胸罩长度)的拉伸的量。沿着区带界线362,工程化材料300从织物302的第二部分(第二区312)转移到第四第二区314。当进行这样的过渡时,梯度式样368的量沿着支撑胸部箍带364增加。In one aspect, the second zone 314 is engineered to provide a warp-knit engineered stretch material having 35% to 45% elongation along both the third axis 326 and the fourth axis 328. In another example, the second zone 314 includes 40% elongation in at least a portion of the cup area. The gradient pattern 354 within the second zone 314 can be created using a jacquard knitting technique to vary the position of one or more yarns relative to the symmetry boundary 358. Due to the knitted structure of the engineered material 300, the cup area of the first bra front portion 318 includes an inherent amount of stretch within the fabric 302. Therefore, additional knitting and/or gradient patterning techniques can be included within the second zone 314 to influence the amount of stretch along the fabric width 304 (i.e., along the bra length). Along the zone boundary 362, the engineered material 300 transitions from the second portion of the fabric 302 (the second zone 312) to the fourth second zone 314. As this transition occurs, the amount of gradient pattern 368 increases along the support chest cuff 364.
在工程化材料300内并沿着织物宽度304过渡时,织物302的第二区314改变至邻近的第三区316。在多个方面中,与第三区316相关联的织物302包括联接到第二区314的一个或多个经编针织线迹(线迹的纵列)的一个或更多个经编针织线迹(线迹的纵列)。换句话说,来自第二区314的至少一个线迹沿着区带界线362与来自第三区316的至少一个线迹相针织。沿着区带界线362的每个针织线迹可以包括来自第二区314和第三区316中的一个或两个的纱线。在第三区316的一部分内,第一胸罩前部308的胸部箍带区域364可以包括切口边缘370,该切口边缘370指定用于从织物302移除第一胸罩前部308的界线。第三区316通常可以被称为具有沿着第五轴线330的锁定特性和沿着第六轴线332的锁定特性,从而限制纱线在第三区316和在箍带区域364内的伸长。在一些方面中,沿着第一轴线322的锁定特性可以与沿着第五轴线330和第六轴线332的锁定特性相同或相似。Within the engineered material 300 and transitioning along the fabric width 304, the second zone 314 of the fabric 302 changes to an adjacent third zone 316. In various aspects, the fabric 302 associated with the third zone 316 includes one or more warp knit stitches (columns of stitches) coupled to one or more warp knit stitches (columns of stitches) of the second zone 314. In other words, at least one stitch from the second zone 314 is knitted with at least one stitch from the third zone 316 along the zone boundary 362. Each knit stitch along the zone boundary 362 can include yarn from one or both of the second zone 314 and the third zone 316. Within a portion of the third zone 316, the chest cuff area 364 of the first bra front portion 308 can include a cutout edge 370 designated for removal of the first bra front portion 308 from the fabric 302. The third zone 316 can generally be referred to as having a locking characteristic along the fifth axis 330 and a locking characteristic along the sixth axis 332, thereby limiting elongation of the yarn in the third zone 316 and within the cuff area 364. In some aspects, the locking characteristic along the first axis 322 can be the same as or similar to the locking characteristic along the fifth axis 330 and the sixth axis 332.
类似于第一区312和第二区314的示例性布局,胸罩支撑的区带状特征,诸如胸部箍带区域364,对应于沿着织物宽度304布置的第三区316。在一些方面中,工程化材料300的多个区带内的经编针织构造包括沿着织物302的y轴的平行的多个区,这允许相对于织物宽度304和织物长度306沿着织物302定向的可变的锁定和拉伸特性。第三区316被构造为沿着第五轴线330和第六轴线332两者提供工程化锁定材料。如此,意图沿着切口边缘370取出的织物302的一部分最终将成为用于成品胸罩的胸部箍带区域的一部分,呈现出与第三区316的纱线选择和线迹构造两者相对应的工程化材料特性。Similar to the exemplary layout of the first and second zones 312, 314, the zonal features of bra support, such as the chest cuff area 364, correspond to the third zone 316 arranged along the fabric width 304. In some aspects, the warp knit configuration within the multiple zones of engineered material 300 includes multiple zones parallel along the y-axis of fabric 302, which allows for variable locking and stretch properties along the orientation of fabric 302 relative to fabric width 304 and fabric length 306. The third zone 316 is configured to provide engineered locking material along both the fifth axis 330 and the sixth axis 332. In this manner, the portion of fabric 302 intended to be removed along the cut edge 370 will ultimately become part of the chest cuff area for a finished bra, exhibiting engineered material properties corresponding to both the yarn selection and stitch configuration of the third zone 316.
在一个方面中,第三区316可以基于第三区316的胸部箍带区域364内的一个或更多个经编针织线迹,呈现沿着织物宽度304(即,当处于直立定向时沿着胸部箍带高度)的阈值锁定伸长和沿着织物长度306(即,当处于直立定向时沿着胸部箍带宽度)的阈值锁定伸长。在一个方面中,第三区316被工程化以提供经编针织工程化锁定材料,该经编针织工程化锁定材料沿着第五轴线330和第六轴线332(即,沿着织物宽度304)两者具有15%至25%之间的伸长。在另一个方面中,第三区316被工程化以提供经编针织工程化锁定材料,该经编针织工程化锁定材料具有沿着第五轴线330和第六轴线332两者的19%至23%之间的伸长,而在另外的示例中,沿着第五轴线和/或第六轴线330的伸长的量可以在20%处或低于20%。如此,最大伸长阈值可以沿着第五轴线330和第六轴线332两者建立,以稳定胸部箍带区域364,防止穿用者的胸罩的移动,并且一旦第一胸罩前部308从织物302中取出并缝制到组装的胸罩形态中,就将工程化胸罩材料保持在穿用者的身体上的期望位置中。In one aspect, the third zone 316 can exhibit a threshold locked elongation along the fabric width 304 (i.e., along the chest cuff height when in the upright orientation) and a threshold locked elongation along the fabric length 306 (i.e., along the chest cuff width when in the upright orientation) based on one or more warp knit stitches within the chest cuff area 364 of the third zone 316. In one aspect, the third zone 316 is engineered to provide a warp knit engineered locking material having an elongation between 15% and 25% along both the fifth axis 330 and the sixth axis 332 (i.e., along the fabric width 304). In another aspect, the third zone 316 is engineered to provide a warp knit engineered locking material having an elongation between 19% and 23% along both the fifth axis 330 and the sixth axis 332, while in other examples, the amount of elongation along the fifth axis and/or the sixth axis 330 can be at or below 20%. In this manner, a maximum elongation threshold can be established along both the fifth axis 330 and the sixth axis 332 to stabilize the chest cuff area 364, prevent movement of the wearer's bra, and maintain the engineered bra material in a desired position on the wearer's body once the first bra front 308 is removed from the fabric 302 and sewn into an assembled bra form.
在图19的示例性俯视图中,梯度式样特征368对应于梯度式样特征346,并且可以使用提花针织式样技术来创建,以操纵第一胸罩前部308内的一根或更多根纱线。在一些方面中,梯度式样特征368可以影响阈值范围内的伸长率的百分比。例如,与梯度式样特征368相关联的伸长的百分比的增加或减少可以对应于伸长的改变的阈值量,以保持来自具有10%至23%之间的伸长的原始锁定工程化材料的伸长的高达10%的改变。在一些方面中,除了纱线组成和/或在经编针织束上的位置的改变,以及经由垫纱技术在针织过程中的线迹构造,用于梯度式样特征的目标位置可以用于补充第一胸罩前部308内以及织物302的多个工程化区之间的伸长的可变量。In the exemplary top view of FIG. 19 , gradient pattern feature 368 corresponds to gradient pattern feature 346 and can be created using a jacquard knit pattern technique to manipulate one or more yarns within first bra front portion 308. In some aspects, gradient pattern feature 368 can affect the percentage of elongation within a threshold range. For example, an increase or decrease in the percentage of elongation associated with gradient pattern feature 368 can correspond to a threshold amount of change in elongation to maintain a change of up to 10% in elongation from an original locked engineered material having an elongation between 10% and 23%. In some aspects, in addition to changes in yarn composition and/or position on the warp knitted bundle, as well as stitch configuration during the knitting process via inlay techniques, the targeted location of the gradient pattern feature can be used to compensate for the variable amount of elongation within first bra front portion 308 and between multiple engineered zones of fabric 302.
简要地参考沿着织物宽度304纵向定向的第二胸罩前部310(以及沿着织物长度306横向定向的第二胸罩前部310),织物302内的镜像分区构造被构造成在工程化材料300的节段内提供另外的工程化胸罩。在一些方面中,织物左侧部400和织物右侧部398对应于经编针织织物302的收边边缘,其中上边缘394是与针织织物302的下边缘396相对的工作边缘(即,靠近经轴)。此外,类似的条带、罩杯和胸部箍带特征在织物302内以使第一胸罩308镜像的定向而被工程化,如图19的示例中所示出的。基于在第三区316内的定位,第二胸罩前部310的胸部箍带区域366可以包括与沿着第五轴线330和第六轴线332定向的织物302的相同的工程化锁定特征。With brief reference to the second bra front 310 oriented longitudinally along the fabric width 304 (and the second bra front 310 oriented transversely along the fabric length 306), the mirrored zoned configuration within the fabric 302 is configured to provide an additional engineered bra within the segment of engineered material 300. In some aspects, the left fabric portion 400 and the right fabric portion 398 correspond to the hemmed edges of the warp knit fabric 302, wherein the upper edge 394 is the working edge (i.e., near the warp beam) opposite the lower edge 396 of the knit fabric 302. In addition, similar straps, cups, and chest cuff features are engineered within the fabric 302 to mirror the orientation of the first bra 308, as shown in the example of FIG19. Based on its positioning within the third zone 316, the chest cuff area 366 of the second bra front 310 can include the same engineered locking features as the fabric 302 oriented along the fifth axis 330 and the sixth axis 332.
在一个示例中,第三区316邻近第四区318,第四区318具有与关于第二区314描述的工程化拉伸特性相同或相似的工程化拉伸特性。如此,第二胸罩前部310的罩杯区域372可以包括切口边缘374、相对于对称界线378定向的梯度式样376以及沿着第七轴线334和第八轴线336的工程化拉伸特性。继续沿着织物宽度304并沿着区带界线382邻近第四区318,织物302还可以包括第五区320,该第五区320具有与关于第一区312描述的工程化拉伸特性相同或相似的工程化拉伸特性。在一个示例中,第二胸罩前部310的第三条带386和第四条带388可以包括:切口边缘390,条带中的每一个可以沿着切口边缘390从织物302移除、梯度式样392、沿着第九轴线338的工程化锁定特性以及沿着第十轴线340的工程化拉伸特性。工程化材料300的一些方面包括织物302,该织物302具有容纳单个胸罩前部308的织物宽度304,而在图19的实施方案中,织物302包括织物宽度304,该织物宽度304促使至少两个胸罩前部的经编针织,该胸罩前部具有与图19的示例中相似的构型。In one example, third zone 316 is adjacent to fourth zone 318 having the same or similar engineered stretch properties as those described with respect to second zone 314. Thus, cup area 372 of second bra front 310 can include a cutout edge 374, a gradient pattern 376 oriented relative to a line of symmetry 378, and engineered stretch properties along seventh axis 334 and eighth axis 336. Continuing along fabric width 304 and adjacent to fourth zone 318 along zone line 382, fabric 302 can also include fifth zone 320 having the same or similar engineered stretch properties as those described with respect to first zone 312. In one example, the third and fourth straps 386, 388 of the second bra front 310 can include a cutout edge 390 along which each of the straps can be removed from the fabric 302, a gradient pattern 392, engineered locking properties along a ninth axis 338, and engineered stretch properties along a tenth axis 340. Some aspects of the engineered material 300 include a fabric 302 having a fabric width 304 that accommodates a single bra front 308, while in the embodiment of FIG. 19 , the fabric 302 includes a fabric width 304 that facilitates the warp knitting of at least two bra fronts having a configuration similar to that in the example of FIG. 19 .
接下来转到图20,图19的工程化针织胸罩材料的切出的胸罩前部400可以包括工程化材料402,该工程化材料402具有切口边线404、上部针织边缘394、针织边缘396、底部胸罩边缘398、邻近第二区408的第一区406以及跨过胸罩前部长度428和胸罩前部宽度426的第三区410(邻近第二区408)。在该示例中,中线会聚点412沿着对称界线358被描绘,具有与右胸会聚点416相对的左胸会聚点414,会聚点中的每一个对应于胸罩前部400的不同部分内的梯度式样的定向。在一些方面中,胸罩前部400内的提花针织的多种梯度式样可以包括致密式样418和致密式样422,其过渡到间隔式样420和间隔式样424(即,较不致密)。在整个经编针织切出的胸罩前部400上的梯度式样的这样的变化可以增强或减少伸长的量、锁定的量、拉伸的量、颜色外观、纱线透明度等。20, the cut bra front portion 400 of the engineered knit bra material of FIG19 can include an engineered material 402 having a cut edge 404, an upper knit edge 394, a knit edge 396, a bottom bra edge 398, a first zone 406 adjacent to a second zone 408, and a third zone 410 (adjacent to the second zone 408) spanning a bra front length 428 and a bra front width 426. In this example, a midline convergence point 412 is depicted along the symmetry line 358, with a left chest convergence point 414 opposite a right chest convergence point 416, each of the convergence points corresponding to the orientation of a gradient pattern within a different portion of the bra front portion 400. In some aspects, the multiple gradient patterns of the jacquard knit within the bra front portion 400 can include a dense pattern 418 and a dense pattern 422, which transition to a spaced pattern 420 and a spaced pattern 424 (i.e., less dense). Such variations in the gradient pattern across the warp knit cut-out bra front 400 can enhance or reduce the amount of elongation, the amount of lock-in, the amount of stretch, the color appearance, the yarn clarity, and the like.
参考图21,组装的工程化针织胸罩430包括预先构造的锁定区和拉伸区,诸如第一区406(沿着胸罩长度锁定、沿着胸罩宽度拉伸)、第二区408(在长度和宽度两者上拉伸)和第三区410(在长度和宽度两者上锁定)。根据本文的方面,组装的工程化针织胸罩430包括联接到胸罩后部434(诸如网状材料440)的工程化胸罩前部432,该工程化胸罩后部434联接在上接缝436和上接缝438处,以提供具有第一可模制胸围区442、第二可模制胸围区444、领口边缘446、袖孔边缘448以及侧部接缝450和侧部接缝452的分区支撑胸罩。图21的示例描绘了相对于工程化胸罩前部432的无缝区带状构造,提供沿着条带长度的锁定胸罩条带、可扩展罩杯结构和锁定胸部箍带区域,其中第一区406、第二区408和第三区410中的每一个具有一体式工程化构造,以在不组装工程化胸罩前部432的多个件的情况下提供特定的胸罩支撑功能。如此,组装的工程化胸罩430的方面包括特定纱线组成的区带化和在这种区内并跨过工程化胸罩前部432的宽度的线迹构造,该工程化胸罩前部432提供了特定的支撑功能,除了胸罩后部434的联接之外,无需另外的组装。21 , an assembled engineered knit bra 430 includes pre-configured locking and stretching zones, such as a first zone 406 (locked along the bra length, stretched along the bra width), a second zone 408 (stretched in both length and width), and a third zone 410 (locked in both length and width). According to aspects of the present invention, the assembled engineered knit bra 430 includes an engineered bra front 432 coupled to a bra back 434 (such as a mesh material 440) coupled at upper seams 436 and 438 to provide a zoned support bra having a first moldable bust zone 442, a second moldable bust zone 444, a neckline edge 446, an armhole edge 448, and side seams 450 and 452. 21 depicts a seamless zoning configuration relative to an engineered bra front 432, providing locked bra straps, expandable cup structures, and locked chest cuff areas along the length of the straps, wherein each of the first zone 406, the second zone 408, and the third zone 410 has an integrally engineered configuration to provide specific bra support functionality without assembling multiple pieces of the engineered bra front 432. As such, aspects of the assembled engineered bra 430 include zoning of specific yarn compositions and stitch configurations within such zones and across the width of the engineered bra front 432 that provide specific support functionality without requiring additional assembly beyond the coupling of the bra back 434.
接下来参考图22,具有对应于示例性测试区的预先构造的锁定区和拉伸区的示例性工程化针织胸罩材料454的俯视图包括第一测试区456、第二测试区458、第三测试区474和第四测试区462。由于区带状区以及伸长和锁定特性的位置,图22的材料454对应于图19的工程化材料300。例如,第一测试区456可以用于识别与工程化材料454和/或梯度式样464相关联的工程化锁定特性466。基于纱线选择和线迹构造,第一测试区456包括沿着x轴(织物宽度304)的锁定工程化特性,而第二测试区458包括沿着y轴(织物长度306)的拉伸/伸长特性。用于工程化针织胸罩材料454的另外的测试区可以包括对应于胸部箍带中的多方向锁定的第三测试区474和第四测试区462。Referring next to FIG22 , a top view of an exemplary engineered knit bra material 454 having pre-configured locking and stretch zones corresponding to exemplary test zones includes a first test zone 456, a second test zone 458, a third test zone 474, and a fourth test zone 462. Due to the location of the banded zones and the stretch and locking properties, the material 454 of FIG22 corresponds to the engineered material 300 of FIG19 . For example, the first test zone 456 can be used to identify the engineered locking property 466 associated with the engineered material 454 and/or the gradient pattern 464. Based on yarn selection and stitch configuration, the first test zone 456 includes the locking engineered property along the x-axis (fabric width 304), while the second test zone 458 includes the stretch/elongation property along the y-axis (fabric length 306). Additional test zones for the engineered knit bra material 454 may include a third test zone 474 and a fourth test zone 462 corresponding to multi-directional locking in the chest cuff.
在一些情况下,沿着第一方向322呈现预定范围内的第一弹性模量的第一针织区可以包括与10%至30%之间的伸长相关联的第一弹性模量。在其他方面中,第一针织区沿着第一方向呈现15%至25%之间的伸长,而在其他方面中,第一针织区沿着第一方向呈现20%至25%之间的伸长。在其他方面中,第一针织区还可以包括沿着第二方向324在预定范围内的第二弹性模量,其中第二弹性模量与15%至40%之间的伸长相关联。在一些方面中,第一针织区呈现20%至35%之间的伸长,而在其他方面中,第一针织区沿着第二方向呈现小于30%的伸长。In some cases, the first knitted area exhibiting a first elastic modulus within a predetermined range along the first direction 322 may include a first elastic modulus associated with an elongation between 10% and 30%. In other aspects, the first knitted area exhibits an elongation between 15% and 25% along the first direction, and in other aspects, the first knitted area exhibits an elongation between 20% and 25% along the first direction. In other aspects, the first knitted area may also include a second elastic modulus within a predetermined range along the second direction 324, wherein the second elastic modulus is associated with an elongation between 15% and 40%. In some aspects, the first knitted area exhibits an elongation between 20% and 35%, and in other aspects, the first knitted area exhibits an elongation of less than 30% along the second direction.
在另外的方面中,沿着第一方向326呈现预定范围内的第三弹性模量的第二针织区可以包括15%至35%之间的第二弹性模量。在另外的方面中,第二针织区呈现20%至30%之间的伸长,而在其他方面中,第二针织区呈现沿着第一方向23%至27%之间的伸长。在其他方面中,第二针织区还可以包括沿着第二方向328在预定范围内的第四弹性模量,其中第四弹性模量在100%和200%之间伸长。在一些情况下,第四弹性模量是在125%至175%之间的伸长,而在另外的方面中,在第二针织区内沿着第二方向的伸长是在140%至160%之间的伸长。In further aspects, the second knitted area exhibiting a third elastic modulus within a predetermined range along the first direction 326 can include a second elastic modulus between 15% and 35%. In further aspects, the second knitted area exhibits an elongation between 20% and 30%, while in other aspects, the second knitted area exhibits an elongation between 23% and 27% along the first direction. In other aspects, the second knitted area can also include a fourth elastic modulus within a predetermined range along the second direction 328, wherein the fourth elastic modulus is between 100% and 200% elongation. In some cases, the fourth elastic modulus is an elongation between 125% and 175%, while in other aspects, the elongation within the second knitted area along the second direction is between 140% and 160%.
在一些方面中,沿着第一方向330呈现预定范围内的第五弹性模量的第三针织区可以包括10%至30%之间的第五弹性模量。在其他方面中,第五针织区沿着第一方向呈现15%至25%之间的伸长,而在另外的方面中,第三针织区沿着第一方向呈现20%至25%之间的伸长。另外,第三针织区的方面包括沿着第二方向332在预定范围内的第六弹性模量,其中第六弹性模量在20%至50%之间伸长。在一些方面中,第三针织区包括30%至45%之间的伸长,而在其他方面中,百分比伸长包括在30%至40%之间。In some aspects, the third knitted area exhibiting a fifth modulus of elasticity within a predetermined range along the first direction 330 may include a fifth modulus of elasticity between 10% and 30%. In other aspects, the fifth knitted area exhibits an elongation between 15% and 25% along the first direction, while in other aspects, the third knitted area exhibits an elongation between 20% and 25% along the first direction. Additionally, aspects of the third knitted area include a sixth modulus of elasticity within a predetermined range along the second direction 332, wherein the sixth modulus of elasticity includes an elongation between 20% and 50%. In some aspects, the third knitted area includes an elongation between 30% and 45%, while in other aspects, the percentage elongation is between 30% and 40%.
参考图19至图22讨论的工程化针织胸罩的方面可以根据用于产生工程化材料的一个或更多个构造参数来概括,诸如示出示例性经编针织布局476的图23的示例。在该示例中,经编针织布局476包括纱线480的多个线卷(bar)478,具有特定纤维组成482,其可以跨过以上讨论的多个胸罩区484变化。例如,胸罩条带486、罩杯88和胸部箍带490可以包括具有1×1垫纱的50/72聚酯纱线中的两个线卷,具有1×3垫纱的30/36纱线中的一个线卷,以及用编链线迹整体针织的70-D氨纶。此外,除了放入的30/36聚酯之外,胸部箍带区域可以使用相同的50/72、30/36和70-D纱线。如以上更详细讨论的,用于经编针织布局476的分区纱线的这样的数值可以在旦尼尔尺寸和丝支数上变化,并且基于满意的工程化特征的最小范围来满足经编针织布局阈值。The aspects of the engineered knit bra discussed with reference to Figures 19 to 22 can be summarized according to one or more construction parameters used to create the engineered material, such as the example of Figure 23 showing an exemplary warp knit layout 476. In this example, the warp knit layout 476 includes multiple bars 478 of yarn 480 having a specific fiber composition 482 that can vary across the multiple bra regions 484 discussed above. For example, the bra straps 486, cups 88, and chest cuffs 490 can include two bars of 50/72 polyester yarn with 1×1 inlays, one bar of 30/36 yarn with 1×3 inlays, and 70-D spandex knitted throughout with a chain stitch. Furthermore, the chest cuff area can use the same 50/72, 30/36, and 70-D yarns, except for the intercalation of 30/36 polyester. As discussed in more detail above, such values for the zoned yarns for the warp knit layout 476 can vary in denier size and yarn count and meet the warp knit layout threshold based on a minimum range of satisfactory engineered characteristics.
从上文可看出,本文的方面很好地适合于达到上文所阐述的所有目标和目的以及其它优点,这些优点是明显的并且这些优点是结构固有的。应当理解,某些特征和子组合具有实用性并且可在不参考其它特征和子组合的情况下被采用。这由权利要求的范围涵盖并且在权利要求的范围内。由于可以作出许多可能的方面而不偏离本文的范围,因此应当理解,本文中所陈述的或附图中示出的所有内容应被解释为说明性的而非以限制性意义来解释。As can be seen from the above, the aspects of this invention are well suited to achieving all of the goals and objectives set forth above, as well as other advantages, which are obvious and inherent to the structure. It should be understood that certain features and subcombinations have practical applications and can be adopted without reference to other features and subcombinations. This is encompassed by and within the scope of the claims. Since many possible aspects can be made without departing from the scope of this invention, it should be understood that all content set forth herein or shown in the accompanying drawings should be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.
Claims (20)
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| US62/319,128 | 2016-04-06 | ||
| US15/341,759 | 2016-11-02 |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| HK1259765A1 HK1259765A1 (en) | 2019-12-06 |
| HK1259765B true HK1259765B (en) | 2022-01-14 |
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