HK1112179B - Oily cosmetic preparation - Google Patents
Oily cosmetic preparation Download PDFInfo
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- HK1112179B HK1112179B HK08101030.2A HK08101030A HK1112179B HK 1112179 B HK1112179 B HK 1112179B HK 08101030 A HK08101030 A HK 08101030A HK 1112179 B HK1112179 B HK 1112179B
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Description
Technical Field
The present invention relates to an oil-based cosmetic, and particularly to an oil-based hair cosmetic typified by mascara and the like. More specifically, the present invention relates to an oil-based cosmetic composition which has excellent high-temperature stability, and which has a coating film having a high gloss after volatilization of a solvent (e.g., a volatile oil) and which has excellent color developability of a colorant when the colorant is blended.
Background
Hair cosmetics, such as mascara, are required to have functional effects such as a makeup retention effect (water resistance and sebum resistance), a curling effect (quick-drying property and effect of curling hair upward), and a curl retention effect (effect of curling hair continuously over time), in addition to effects such as making hair thick and long and giving hair a thick feel.
In recent years, in order to impart not only a thickening effect and a curling effect to hair but also to make the hair look vivid and beautiful, there has been an increasing demand for an oil-based cosmetic which can impart sufficient gloss to hair and can maximize the color development characteristics of a colorant, a pearling agent, a glossy tablet (ラメ agent) and a glittering substance to be blended.
However, when a large amount of solid oil such as wax is added to improve the thickening effect and curling effect (see, for example, Japanese patent application laid-open No. 2003-521489), the composition itself is opaque, and the coating film after solvent evaporation has a blurred rough texture, so that the hair itself coated with the composition loses its luster.
When a solid oil such as wax is blended, the coloring of the colorant or the coloring characteristics of a glitter such as a pearling agent or a glitter are weakened, and therefore, it is necessary to blend a large amount of raw materials for these materials.
If dextrin fatty acid esters and the like, which have been conventionally used as oily gelling agents, are used, a preparation having a high transparency of a coating film can be obtained (see, for example, japanese patent No. 2639417), but when a large amount of the composition is blended, the oily gel itself becomes firm and is difficult to be applied uniformly, and therefore, the composition cannot be blended in a large amount.
Similarly, there has been a study on a makeup for eyelashes which uses a sucrose fatty acid ester for the purpose of a curling effect or a thickening effect and which contains a sucrose fatty acid ester having an average degree of substitution of the ester of 3 to 8, among hair cosmetics represented by mascara at present (see, for example, Japanese patent laid-open No. Sho 58-180414).
However, the dried coating film after application has a rough texture, and the color developability of the colorant is not sufficiently satisfied.
In addition, although aqueous or emulsion-type bases such as water-in-oil or oil-in-water have been studied in all studies, at present, even when eyelashes are physically curled using a tool such as an eyelash curling clip, the eyelashes are wetted with water by the base, and thus a sufficient effect in maintaining a long-term curling effect cannot be obtained.
On the other hand, there is a demand for an oily cosmetic composition which can impart a sufficient gloss to lipstick and lip gloss and can maximize the color development characteristics of a colorant, a pearl agent, a glitter and a glitter to be blended.
In addition, cosmetics are also required to have excellent stability.
Further, as an oil-based cosmetic excellent in water resistance, cosmetic persistence, stability, usability and the like, a nonaqueous (oil-based) cosmetic containing 40 to 80 mass% of isoparaffin, 5 to 20 mass% of a lipophilic gelling agent having sucrose or dextrin as a skeleton, and 10 to 30 mass% of wax has been proposed (see japanese patent application laid-open No. 2003-63927), but since a large amount of wax is blended in the cosmetic, the dry film after application has a rough texture, and thus a sufficiently satisfactory effect in terms of gloss, coloring property of a colorant and the like cannot be obtained.
Disclosure of Invention
The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and an object thereof is to provide an oil-based cosmetic which is excellent in high-temperature stability, has a high gloss of a coating film after volatilization of a solvent (for example, a volatile oil or the like), and is excellent in color developability of a colorant when a colorant is blended.
It is another object of the present invention to provide an oil-based hair cosmetic composition which is excellent in the thickening effect, curling effect, and curl retention effect, in addition to the above-mentioned effects, when used as a hair cosmetic composition.
Specifically, the present invention relates to an oil-based cosmetic composition comprising a cosmetic base and, blended therein, (a) a dextrin fatty acid ester, (b) a sucrose fatty acid ester having an average degree of substitution of the ester of 3 to 8, and (c) as optional components, an oil component which is solid at 30 ℃ and is 5% by mass (or wt%) or less relative to the total amount of the oil-based cosmetic composition.
The present invention also relates to the oil-based cosmetic composition, wherein the component (a) is incorporated in the cosmetic base in an amount of 5 to 40 mass% and the component (b) is incorporated in an amount of 5 to 50 mass% based on the total amount of the oil-based cosmetic composition.
The present invention also relates to the above oil-based cosmetic composition further comprising (d) 1 to 50% by mass of an oil component (a mobile oil component which does not volatilize at room temperature) which is liquid at 30 ℃ relative to the total amount of the oil-based cosmetic composition.
The present invention also relates to the oil-based cosmetic composition further comprising (e) 0.01 to 30% by mass of a colorant based on the total amount of the oil-based cosmetic composition.
The present invention also relates to the oil-based cosmetic composition further comprising (f) 1 to 40% by mass of a film-forming agent based on the total amount of the oil-based cosmetic composition.
The present invention also relates to the above oil-based cosmetic composition further comprising 30 to 80% by mass of (g) a volatile oil component based on the cosmetic base.
The present invention also relates to the above oil-based cosmetic composition having a hardness (Curd tensiometer; 8 mm. phi./200 g load value) at 30 ℃ in the range of 10 to 150.
Further, the present invention relates to the above-mentioned oily cosmetic as a hair cosmetic (here, the hair cosmetic is preferably in the form of an eyelash cosmetic).
The present invention provides an oil-based cosmetic composition which is excellent in stability (particularly, stability at high temperatures), gloss imparting properties, and color developing properties of a colorant when the colorant is blended. The present invention also provides an oil-based cosmetic composition which, when used as a hair cosmetic composition, has excellent thickening effect, curling effect, curl retention effect, and separation effect in addition to the above-described effects.
Detailed Description
The present inventors have conducted intensive studies in order to solve the above problems, and as a result, have found that an oil-based cosmetic which is excellent in high-temperature stability, has a high gloss of a coating film after solvent evaporation and is excellent in color development of a colorant when a colorant is blended can be provided by combining a dextrin fatty acid ester, a sucrose fatty acid ester having an average degree of substitution of the ester of 3 to 8, and 5% by mass or less (including 0% by mass) of an oil component which is solid at 30 ℃.
The oil-based cosmetic and the oil-based hair cosmetic of the present invention will be described in detail below.
In the present invention, "hair" is a generic term for hair and body hair, and the oil-based hair cosmetic of the present invention is suitable for all of hair, eyelashes, and eyebrows, and is most preferably used as an oil-based mascara such as mascara.
The dextrin fatty acid ester (a) used in the present invention is an ester of dextrin or reduced dextrin with a higher fatty acid.
The dextrin or reduced dextrin preferably has an average sugar polymerization degree of 3 to 100.
The higher fatty acid is preferably a saturated fatty acid having 8 to 16 carbon atoms. Specific examples thereof include caprylic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and the like. 1 or more than 1 such higher fatty acid may be used.
In the present invention, as the component (a), a dextrin fatty acid ester obtained by reacting 1 or more kinds of dextrins or reduced dextrins having an average degree of polymerization of glucose of 3 to 10 with 1 or more kinds of saturated fatty acids having 8 to 16 carbon atoms in the presence of a tertiary amine as a catalyst and 3.0 to 50.0 mass% of water or 1 or more kinds of alcohols relative to the total amount of the dextrins, and esterifying the resulting product so that the degree of substitution of the saturated fatty acids per glucose unit of the dextrins is 1.2 to 2.4, or a dextrin fatty acid ester obtained by washing the dextrin fatty acid ester with water and an alcohol can be preferably used.
(a) As the component (A), commercially available "レオパ - ル (trade mark) KL", "レオパ - ル (trade mark) MKL", "レオパ - ル (trade mark) TT" (all of which are available from millettia speciosa (trade mark)), and the like can be preferably used.
(a) The amount of the component (b) is suitably adjusted depending on the composition, and is preferably 5 to 40% by mass, more preferably 10 to 35% by mass. When the amount is less than 5% by mass, the gloss effect, the thickening effect, and the curling effect are not sufficiently imparted after drying the coating film, and thus the effect as a cosmetic such as mascara is hardly exhibited. In addition, the effect as a gelling agent is small, and it is difficult to stably maintain an oily gel, and the quality is not satisfactory. On the other hand, when the amount of the component (a) is more than 40% by mass, high gloss (glossiness) can be imparted after drying the coating film, but when the cohesion of the oil-based gel is strong, cracks appear in the coating film during drying, the gloss (glossiness) is reduced due to lack of uniformity of the coating film, and uniform adhesion to hair is difficult, and it is difficult to obtain a desired cosmetic effect. Further, the oil-based gel itself is very firm, and is not preferable from the viewpoint of being difficult to uniformly apply to hair as a cosmetic.
In the present invention, a sucrose fatty acid ester having an average degree of substitution of the ester of 3 to 8 is used as component (b). More preferably, the sucrose fatty acid ester has an average degree of substitution of 5 to 8. Examples of the component (b) include sucrose fatty acid esters having an average degree of substitution of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 24 carbon atoms of 3 or more, and sucrose fatty acid esters having a total degree of substitution of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 24 carbon atoms and lower fatty acids having 2 to 4 carbon atoms of 3 or more, as shown in Japanese patent publication No. 53-6220.
Examples of preferable examples of the oil-soluble sucrose fatty acid ester having a high degree of substitution include sucrose tetrastearate, sucrose pentastearate, sucrose tetraisostearate, and sucrose tetrapalmitate tetrabutyrate. The "degree of substitution" of an ester herein means an average value of the number of fatty acids bonded to each 1 molecule of sucrose constituting a sucrose fatty acid ester via an ester bond.
In the present invention, since a uniform oily gel composition can be provided, the coating film has high gloss, the obtained oily gel itself has appearance transparency, and further the coloring property of the colorant is excellent when the colorant is blended, it is preferable to use, as the component (b), a composition in which the ester ratio is the monomer: two or more than three of the compounds are 5: 95-0: 100.
(b) The amount of the component (b) is suitably adjusted depending on the composition, and is preferably 5 to 50% by mass, more preferably 10 to 45% by mass. When the amount is less than 5% by mass, the gloss effect, the thickening effect, and the curling effect are not sufficiently imparted after drying the coating film, and thus the effect as a cosmetic such as mascara is hardly exhibited. In addition, the effect as a gelling agent is small, and it is difficult to stably maintain an oily gel, and a product of satisfactory quality cannot be obtained. On the other hand, when the amount exceeds 40% by mass, although extremely high gloss (glossiness) can be imparted after drying the coating film, when the cohesion of the oil-based gel is strong, cracks appear in the coating film during drying, the gloss (glossiness) decreases due to lack of uniformity of the coating film, and uniform adhesion to hair is difficult, so that it is difficult to obtain a desired cosmetic effect. Further, the oily gel itself is very firm and is not easily applied to hair as a cosmetic, or the oily gel itself is very sticky and adheres to hair in a bundle when applied to hair, and is sticky even after a while after application, causing a secondary adhesion phenomenon in which a colorant or the like to be added adheres to the other skin, and the cosmetic is not preferable because the cosmetic is remarkably poor.
In the present invention, (c) an oil component which is a solid at 30 ℃ is further blended in a proportion of 5 mass% or less based on the total amount of the cosmetic from the viewpoints of temperature stability, thickening effect of hair cosmetic, curling effect, and the like. (c) When the amount of the component (b) is more than 5% by mass, the gloss of the coating film after solvent evaporation tends to be lowered, and when a colorant is added, the color developing property tends to be lowered. It is preferable that the component (c) is not contained within a range in which the temperature stability in quality can be ensured.
Specific examples of the component (c) include paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, wood wax, jojoba ester, and synthetic wax. The component (c) does not include the above-mentioned components (a) and (b).
In the present invention, by blending components (a) to (b) in combination with a specific amount or less of component (c), an oil-based cosmetic having excellent high-temperature stability, a high gloss of a coating film after solvent evaporation, and excellent coloring properties of a colorant can be obtained. These effects are significant effects that could not be expected by the conventional techniques.
For example, when only the component (a) is blended with the component (a) and the component (b), a glossy base can be obtained, but the base has a disadvantage of poor high-temperature stability (for example, when the base is kept at 50 ℃ or lower for 1 week, liquid oil exudes, and a colorant or the like is separated by sedimentation). In such a system, if the amount of component (a) is increased to maintain high-temperature stability, the degree of gloss is slightly increased, but the gel itself has a high cohesive force, and therefore cracks are observed in the coating film after solvent evaporation, and the gel itself becomes hard and difficult to be uniformly applied, so that there is a limit in the amount of blending, and satisfactory gloss cannot be obtained.
On the other hand, when the component (b) alone is blended, the gelling ability tends to be weaker than that of the component (a), and thus a satisfactory oily gelled product cannot be obtained, and the oily cosmetic containing the colorant cannot be obtained because the colorant is precipitated (the colorant dispersibility is poor).
By combining the component (a) and the component (b) and the component (c) in a specific amount or less, a base having gloss and excellent high-temperature stability and excellent color developability of a colorant when these colorants are blended can be obtained for the first time.
In the present invention, when a sucrose fatty acid ester having an average degree of substitution of the ester of less than 3 is blended, it is difficult to sufficiently obtain the above-mentioned effects by blending components (a) to (b) in combination with component (c) in a specific amount or less, and therefore it is not preferable to blend a sucrose fatty acid ester having an average degree of substitution of the ester of less than 3 in a cosmetic.
In the present invention, by blending (d) an oil component which is liquid at 30 ℃ (a mobile oil component which does not volatilize at room temperature) in addition to the components (a) to (b) and the component (c) in a specific amount or less, the gloss of the coating film after drying can be particularly improved, and the film strength can be improved. The component (d) is not particularly limited as long as it is generally used in cosmetics, and examples thereof include hydrocarbon oils such as heavy isoparaffin, squalane, and liquid paraffin; esters such as cetyl-2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, neopentyl glycol 2-ethylhexanoate, isopropyl myristate, and myristyl myristate; oils and fats such as olive oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, safflower oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, mink oil, liquid lanolin, lanolin acetate, castor oil, etc.; silicone oil components such as polydimethylsiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, rubbery polydimethylsiloxane having a high degree of polymerization, polyether-modified polysiloxane, and amino-modified polysiloxane; fluorine-containing oils such as fluorine-modified polydimethylsiloxane, fluorine-modified methylphenylpolysiloxane, perfluoropolyether and perfluorocarbons.
(d) The amount of the component (b) is suitably adjusted depending on the form of the composition, but is preferably 1 to 50% by mass, more preferably 5 to 45% by mass. When the amount is less than 1% by mass, cracks or the like are observed in the dried coating film, and the processing is not uniform, and the coating film may be peeled off after drying for a while. On the other hand, when the amount exceeds 50% by mass, a dry coating film cannot be obtained during processing, and the coating film is always in a sticky state, and thus the coating film cannot be satisfactorily used as a cosmetic.
In the present invention, by further blending (e) a colorant, it is possible to process the hair cosmetic composition in a color tone directly reflecting the colorant, a pearling agent, a bright tablet or the like, and to give a higher gloss during processing, compared with conventional oily hair cosmetic compositions, and therefore, it is possible to give a cosmetic effect having a vivid color development.
The component (e) used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is generally used in cosmetics, but is preferably hydrophobic, and examples thereof include inorganic pigments such as talc, mica, kaolin, calcium carbonate, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, ultramarine blue, carbon black, titanium suboxide, cobalt violet, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt titanate, bismuth oxychloride, titanium-mica-based pearl pigments; organic pigments such as zirconium, barium, and aluminum lakes of red 201, red 202, red 204, red 205, red 220, red 226, red 228, red 405, orange 203, yellow 205, yellow 4, yellow 5, blue 1, blue 404, and green 3; natural pigments such as chlorophyll and β -carotene; resin powders of nylon, cellulose, polyethylene, and the like; dyes, and the like. (e) The components may be 1 or more than 1.
(e) The amount of the component (b) is suitably adjusted depending on the form of the composition, but is preferably 0.01 to 30% by mass, more preferably 0.5 to 25% by mass. When the amount exceeds 30% by mass, the coating film has a rough texture, and the desired gloss is deteriorated.
In addition, the oil-based cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used as a transparent oil-based agent without blending component (e), and can impart gloss to hair without being affected by, for example, the difference in hair color depending on the species of human. In short, the hair can be made vivid and glossy without damaging the color of the hair of various people.
The transparent oily base is not limited to hair cosmetics, and may be used in other cosmetic products (e.g., transparent lipstick in stick form).
The present invention further comprises (f) a film-forming agent, whereby the composition exhibits high resistance to sweat, tears, sebum, and the like, and the effect can be maintained for a long period of time from immediately after application to the passage of time, and the effect of inhibiting 2-time adhesion (transfer) to other parts (to hair or skin) is exhibited. In particular, in a hair cosmetic such as mascara, an effect of improving the persistence of eyelash curls can be imparted. The component (f) is not particularly limited as long as it is a resin which is generally blended in cosmetics as a film-forming agent. Specifically, there can be used a latex such as polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyvinyl acetate, or polyalkyl acrylate; cellulose derivatives such as dextrin, alkyl cellulose, and nitrocellulose; silicone resins such as trimethylsiloxysilyl silicate, silicone resins such as trimethylsiloxysilylpropylurethane, fluorine-modified silicone resins, and acrylic silicone copolymer resins, fluorine resins, aromatic hydrocarbon resins, polymer emulsion resins, terpene resins, polybutene, polyisoprene, alkyd resins, polyvinylpyrrolidone-modified polymers, rosin-modified resins, and polyurethane resins. Examples of the fluororesin include resins having a pendant chain type perfluoroalkyl group in the hydrocarbon main chain, such as perfluoroalkyl group-containing acrylic resins and perfluoroalkyl group-containing methacrylic resins; resins whose main chain is itself a fluorocarbon such as poly-1, 1-vinylidene fluoride; and compounds having both a hydrocarbon moiety and a fluorocarbon moiety in the main chain obtained by radical copolymerization of vinyl fluoride and hydrocarbon vinyl ether, but the present invention is not limited to these compounds.
Among these, silicone resins are particularly preferable, and among them, trimethylsiloxysilosilicic acid [ commercially available product, "KF 7321J (trade mark)", "X-21-5250 (trade mark)" ] (manufactured by SIGHT シリコ - ン (trademark) ", etc.), and tris (trimethylsiloxy) silylcarbamate (manufactured by SIGHT シリコ - ン (trademark)), but the invention is not limited thereto.
(f) The amount of the component (b) is suitably adjusted depending on the composition, but is preferably 1 to 40% by mass, and more preferably 5 to 35% by mass. When the amount is less than 1% by mass, a sufficient curl effect and curl retention effect cannot be obtained, and further, a cosmetic lasting effect such as water resistance, sweat resistance, sebum resistance, and the like is lacking. On the other hand, when the amount is more than 40% by mass, the hardness of the oil-based gel tends to be soft, and it is difficult to uniformly apply the gel to hair. Further, it takes some time from application to drying, and hair is easily bundled (no separation effect) and is significantly sticky, which is not preferable.
In the present invention, by further blending (g) a volatile oil component (an oil component having volatility at normal temperature), quick drying at the time of application can be imparted, secondary adhesion (transfer) to other parts (hair or skin) can be suppressed, and therefore, a curling effect, continuation of the curling effect, and the like can be imparted.
The component (g) used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is generally used in cosmetics, and examples thereof include lower alcohols such as ethanol, cyclic silicone oils such as decamethylcyclopentapolysiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and hydrocarbons such as light isoparaffin.
(g) The amount of the component(s) to be blended may be suitably adjusted depending on the form of the composition, but is preferably 30 to 80% by mass, more preferably 40 to 70% by mass. When the compounding amount is less than 30% by mass, other raw materials constituting the formulation other than the volatile oil component cannot be sufficiently dissolved, and a cosmetic which can be used uniformly cannot be obtained. On the other hand, when the amount exceeds 80% by mass, the hardness of the formulation cannot be developed and the formulation becomes liquid, so that the formulation cannot be uniformly applied to hair and it is difficult to maintain the stability of the system.
The oily cosmetic composition of the present invention preferably has a hardness (curdtensiometry; 8 mm. phi./200 g load value) at 30 ℃ in the range of 10 to 150. The hardness here refers to the hardness of the oily cosmetic before drying, and is measured by applying a load of 200g to a 8mm Φ insert pin under a condition of 30 ℃ using a curometer model M-301AR curd tension meter (manufactured by Wako electric Co., Ltd.). When the hardness is less than 10 at 30 ℃, it is difficult to uniformly apply 1 hair to 1 hair. Further, it takes some time from application to drying, and hair is likely to be bundled and sticky, and thus a beautiful finishing effect as a cosmetic cannot be obtained, which is not preferable. On the other hand, if the hardness at 30 ℃ exceeds 150, the oily gel itself becomes firm and is difficult to be applied uniformly to the skin, hair, etc., which is not preferable.
In the oil-based cosmetic composition of the present invention, since the gel strength can be effectively maintained by further blending a metal soap, the use properties can be adjusted according to the purpose while temperature stability at high temperature is ensured. The metal soap may be a higher fatty acid salt of a non-alkali metal (e.g., calcium, zinc, magnesium, etc.), and specific examples thereof include, but are not limited to, aluminum stearate, aluminum palmitate, calcium stearate, zinc myristate, and magnesium myristate. Among them, aluminum stearate, aluminum palmitate, and magnesium myristate are preferably used from the viewpoint of not reducing the gloss of the dried coating film.
When the metal soap is blended in the oil-based cosmetic of the present invention, the blending amount of the metal soap may be appropriately adjusted depending on the composition, but is preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass, and more preferably 0.5 to 3% by mass. When the amount is less than 0.1% by mass, it is difficult to obtain a sufficient effect as a gelling agent, while when it exceeds 5% by mass, stringing of the gel may occur or the gel itself may become too strong.
The oily cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited in its application, but is preferably used as a hair cosmetic represented by mascara, eyebrow pencil, mascara brush or the like, eyeliner, lipstick, lip gloss, lipstick or the like, from the viewpoints that a coating film after solvent evaporation has high gloss and coloring property of a colorant is good.
The formulation of the oil-based cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, and is preferably in a solid form, a paste form, or a liquid form within a viscosity range in which a powder or a pigment can be stably dispersed.
The oily cosmetic of the present invention may further contain, depending on the purpose, an ingredient which can be usually blended in cosmetics and hair care cosmetics, in an amount and quality within the range not impairing the effects of the present invention. Examples of such components include, but are not limited to, fibers, alcohols, polyols, drugs, surfactants, polymers, clay minerals, preservatives, perfumes, antioxidants, ultraviolet absorbers, moisturizers, oils and fats, and oily components such as hydrocarbon oils.
Examples
The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Unless otherwise specified, the components are represented by mass% based on the system to be blended.
Samples A to D and samples E to H (examination of color development, gloss, and high-temperature stability)
Since waxes have been generally blended as a means for obtaining a curling effect and a thickening effect of a hair cosmetic (mascara), as shown in tables I to II below, a sample in which a wax is blended (more than 5 mass%) (sample B, C, F, G), a sample in which a component (b) is blended (sample D, H), and a sample in which neither a wax nor a component (b) is blended (sample A, E) are prepared in a system containing a component (a) and a colorant used in the present invention.
In comparison with sample A, E (comparative) in which neither wax nor component (b) was added, sample B, C, F, G containing wax (more than 5 mass%) and sample D, H containing component (b) were compared with the case where neither wax nor component (b) was added, and the use of red colorant (table I) and black colorant (table II) allowed the confirmation of the two points (color difference and gloss), that is, (I) how much color difference (Δ E) was present, in other words, whether or not color development was performed without impairing the color of the added colorant (color developability was good), and (II) how much gloss could be maintained. The high temperature stability was also evaluated. The evaluation method is as follows. The results are shown in tables I and II.
Determination of chromatic aberration
The comparative sample and each sample were measured by a spectrophotometric system (manufactured by Macbeth), and the color difference (. DELTA.E) between the comparative sample and each sample was determined.
Measurement of gloss
The sample containing the liquid was coated on a color paper (OPACITY CHARTS FORM5C (194X 260mm)) made by Leneta corporation (doctor blade 0.35mm thick) at a uniform thickness. The sample was left to stand at room temperature and dried for a whole day and night to prepare a sample to be tested. The GLOSS was measured by using a GLOSS METER (nipponenshoku GLOSS METER VG2000) and taking the average value (n ═ 5) of the measured values as the GLOSS.
Evaluation of high temperature stability
Each sample was filled in a transparent glass paste container, and the state after standing in an incubator at 50 ℃ for 4 weeks was visually observed.
Evaluation criteria
Very good: no oil exudation, colorant sedimentation, system separation, and the like were observed.
O: although the bleeding of oil, the sedimentation of the colorant, the separation of the system, and the like were found to be slight, it was considered that there was no particular problem in the practical use.
And (delta): the bleeding of a small amount of oil, the sedimentation of the colorant, the separation of the system, and the like were found, but they were considered to be within the allowable range in practical use.
X: the bleeding of oil, the sedimentation of a colorant, the separation of a system, and the like were found, and the use thereof was difficult.
TABLE I
| Sample A (comparison) | Sample B | Sample C | Sample D | |
| Complex (% by weight) | ||||
| Light isoparaffin dioleic acid polyethylene glycol ester diisostearic acid diglyceride dimethyl distearyl ammonium hectorite phenyl trimethyl silicone oil (palmitic acid/caprylic acid) dextrin ester(*1)Microcrystalline wax polyethylene wax mixed fatty acid sucrose ester(*2)Hydrophobing colorant (Red) | Margin 220.5525- - -5 | Margin 220.552510-5 | The balance of 220.5525-10-5 | Allowance 220.5525-105 |
| Evaluation of | ||||
| Color difference (. DELTA.E) with respect to the comparative sample gloss (average value of gloss n. about.5) high temperature stability | -70.9× | 0.4969.4○ | 1.29114.4◎ | 0.47174.8○ |
TABLE II
| Sample E (comparison) | Sample F | Sample G | Sample H | |
| Complex (% by weight) | ||||
| Light isoparaffin dioleic acid polyethylene glycol ester diisostearic acid diglyceride dimethyl distearyl ammonium hectorite phenyl trimethyl silicone oil (palmitic acid/caprylic acid) dextrin ester(*1)Microcrystalline wax polyethylene wax mixed fatty acid sucrose ester(*2)Hydrophobing colorant (Black) | Margin 220.5525- - -5 | Margin 220.552510-5 | The balance of 220.5525-10-5 | Allowance 220.5525-105 |
| Evaluation of | ||||
| Color difference (. DELTA.E) with respect to the comparative sample gloss (average value of gloss n. about.5) high temperature stability | -49.5× | 0.1218.3○ | 0.4211.8◎ | 0.12756.4○ |
In tables I and II, "(palmitic acid/caprylic acid) dextrin ester(*1)"レオパ - ル (trade mark) TT" (manufactured by Qianye Mill, Inc.) was used.
Sucrose ester of mixed fatty acid(*2)"コスメライク (trade mark) MX-10" (manufactured by first Industrial pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.) (degree of ester substitution 5-6; constituent fatty acids: about 40% oleic acid, about 30% palmitic acid and about 30% stearic acid; monoester: di-tri-ester or more: about 0: about 100) was used.
As is clear from the results shown in Table I, in the system containing the component (a) and the colorant (red),
the gloss was significantly reduced by the addition of the wax (see reference sample B, C), and the gloss was improved as compared with the comparative sample (sample A) while suppressing the gloss reduction effect by adding the component (b) in place of the wax (see reference sample D). In addition, the color difference (Δ E) was small compared to the comparative sample (sample a), and a clear red color was reproduced.
From the results shown in table II, it is understood that in the system in which the component (a) and the colorant (black) are blended, the gloss is remarkably reduced by blending the wax (see reference sample F, G), and the gloss reduction effect is suppressed and the gloss is improved as compared with the comparative sample (sample E) by blending the component (b) in place of the wax (see reference sample H). In addition, the color difference (Δ E) was small compared to the comparative sample (sample E), and a clear black color was reproduced.
Examples 1 to 6 and comparative examples 1 to 3
Samples (mascara) having the compositions shown in tables III to IV below were prepared in accordance with a conventional method, and the curl effect, curl-sustaining effect, thickening effect, gloss, color development property, separation effect, high-temperature stability, and hardness were evaluated by the following evaluation methods using these samples. The results are shown in tables III to IV.
Curling effect, curl sustaining effect, thickening effect, gloss after application, color development, separation
Effect
Each sample (mascara) was applied 10 times to eyelashes by 20 specialized test persons, and the state thereof was evaluated visually and evaluated according to the following criteria. After 3 hours from the application, the curl retention effect, gloss after application, and color development were evaluated.
Evaluation of curling Effect
Very good: of the 20 answers, 16 answers or more had curling effect
O: of the 20 answers, 10 to 15 answers had a curling effect
And (delta): of the 20 answers, 5 to 9 answers had a curling effect
X: of the 20, 4 or less answers had curling effect
Evaluation of curl Retention Effect (evaluation 3 hours after application)
Very good: of the 20 answers, 16 or more answers had a curl-sustaining effect
O: of the 20 answers, 10 to 15 answers had a curl-sustaining effect
And (delta): of the 20 responses, 5 to 9 responses had a curl-sustaining effect
X: of the 20, 4 or less answers had a curl-sustaining effect
Evaluation of thickening Effect
Very good: of the 20 answers, more than 16 answers have a dense effect
O: of the 20 answers, 10 to 15 answers have a rich effect
And (delta): of the 20 answers, 5 to 9 answers have a rich effect
X: of the 20 answers, the answers below 4 have a dense effect
Evaluation of eyelash gloss (evaluation 3 hours after application)
Very good: of the 20, more than 16 answers have luster
O: of the 20 answers, 10-15 answers have gloss
And (delta): of the 20 answers, 5-9 answers have luster
X: of the 20, the 4 answers have gloss
Evaluation of color development of eyelashes (evaluation 3 hours after application)
Very good: of the 20, 16 or more responses were excellent in color rendering
O: of the 20, 10 to 15 responses were excellent in color rendering property
And (delta): of the 20, 5 to 9 answers were excellent in color rendering property
X: of the 20, 4 or less are excellent in color rendering property of answer
Separation effect
Very good: of the 20 answers, 16 answers or more had a separating effect
O: of the 20 answers, 10-15 answers have a separation fruit
And (delta): of the 20 answers, 5 to 9 answers have a separating effect
X: of the 20 answers, 4 answers or less had a separating effect
High temperature stability
After each sample was kept at 50 ℃ for 4 weeks, the appearance was visually evaluated.
Evaluation criteria
Very good: no oil exudation, colorant sedimentation, system separation, and the like were observed.
O: although the bleeding of oil, the sedimentation of the colorant, the separation of the system, and the like were found to be slight, it was considered that there was no particular problem in the practical use.
And (delta): the bleeding of a small amount of oil, the sedimentation of the colorant, the separation of the system, and the like were found, but they were considered to be within the allowable range in practical use.
X: the bleeding of oil, the sedimentation of a colorant, the separation of a system, and the like were found, and the use thereof was difficult.
Hardness of
Each sample was measured at 30 ℃ by applying a load of 200g to a pin of 8 mm. phi. using a curd tension meter M-301AR (manufactured by Wako K.K.).
TABLE III
| Example 1 | Example 2 | Example 3 | Example 4 | Example 5 | |
| Complex (% by weight) | |||||
| Light isoparaffin dimethylpolysiloxane decamethyl Cyclopentasiloxane Octanoic acid Octadecanoic acid Isostearic acid microcrystalline wax carnauba wax beeswax (palmitic acid/caprylic acid) dextrin ester(*1)Sucrose ester of mixed fatty acids(*2)Sucrose stearate mixture(*3)Preservative perfume of coloring agent (black) acetic acid DL-alpha-tocopherol treated by hydrophobic treatment of trimethylsiloxy alkyl silicic acid | Proper amount of the rest 35111221530-1030.1 | Proper amount of the rest 3511-1530-1030.1 | Proper amount of the rest 3511- - -15-301030.1 | Proper amount of the rest 3511- - -3015-1030.1 | Proper amount of the rest 3511- - -30-151030.1 |
| Evaluation of | |||||
| High temperature stability hardness of separation effect of curling effect, lasting effect, thickening effect, gloss and color development | ◎◎◎○○○◎50 | ◎○◎◎◎○△10 | ◎◎◎◎◎◎○25 | ◎○◎◎◎○○40 | ◎◎◎◎◎◎◎80 |
TABLE IV
| Example 6 | Comparative example 1 | Comparative example 2 | Comparative example 3 | |
| Complex (% by weight) | ||||
| Light isoparaffin dimethylpolysiloxane decamethyl Cyclopentasiloxane Octanoic acid Octadecanoic acid Isostearic acid microcrystalline wax carnauba wax beeswax (palmitic acid/caprylic acid) dextrin ester(*1)Sucrose ester of mixed fatty acids(*2)Sucrose acetate stearate(*3)Preservative perfume of coloring agent (black) acetic acid DL-alpha-tocopherol treated by hydrophobic treatment of trimethylsiloxy alkyl silicic acid | Proper amount of the rest 3511- - -15-45530.1 | Proper amount of the rest 3511102215-1030.1 | Proper amount of the rest 351112230-1030.1 | Proper amount of the rest 3511522-301030.1 |
| Evaluation of | ||||
| High temperature stability hardness of separation effect of curling effect, lasting effect, thickening effect, gloss and color development | ◎◎◎◎◎○◎45 | ◎◎○××○×70 | ○○○△○△×50 | ◎○◎△△○×35 |
In tables III to IV, "(palmitic acid/octanoic acid) dextrin ester(*1)"レオパ - ル (trade mark) TT" (manufactured by Qianye Mill, Inc.) was used.
Sucrose ester of mixed fatty acid(*2)"コスメライク (trade mark) MX-10" (manufactured by first Industrial pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.) (degree of ester substitution 5-6; constituent fatty acids: about 40% oleic acid, about 30% palmitic acid and about 30% stearic acid; monoester: di-tri-ester or more: about 0: about 100) was used.
Sucrose acetate stearate(*3)"use" コスメライク (trade mark) SA-10 "(manufactured by first Industrial pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.) (degree of ester substitution 8; constituent fatty acid: stearic acid: about 70%).
Examples 7 to 10 and comparative examples 4 to 6
Samples (mascara) having the compositions shown in tables V to VI below were prepared in accordance with a conventional method, and each sample was evaluated in accordance with the above evaluation method. The results are shown in tables V to VI. In comparative example 5, the colorant was precipitated in a liquid state before curing to creaming.
TABLE V
| Comparative example 4 | Comparative example 5 | Example 7 | Example 8 | |
| Complex (% by weight) | ||||
| Light isoparaffin dextrin palmitate(*4)(palmitic acid/octanoic acid) dextrin esters(*1)Microcrystalline wax sucrose acetate stearate(*3)Sucrose tetraisostearate(*5)Isostearic acid tri-2-ethyl hexanoic acid glyceride decamethyl cyclic pentapolysiloxane trimethylsiloxy alkyl silicic acid hydrophobization treatment colorant (black) acetic acid DL-alpha-tocopherol preservative perfume | Proper amount of the balance 515- - -2.515550.01 | The balance is proper amount of 1012.515550.01 | Proper amount of the balance 515-1012.515550.01 | Proper amount of the rest 51511012.515550.01 |
| Evaluation of | ||||
| High temperature stability hardness of separation effect of curling effect, lasting effect, thickening effect, gloss and color development | △△△○◎◎×8 | -------- | ◎◎○◎◎◎◎28 | ◎◎○○◎◎◎36 |
TABLE VI
| Example 9 | Example 10 | Comparative example 6 | |
| Complex (% by weight) | |||
| Light isoparaffin dextrin palmitate(*4)(palmitic acid/octanoic acid) dextrin esters(*1)Microcrystalline wax sucrose acetate stearate(*3)Sucrose tetraisostearate(*5)Isostearic acid tri-2-ethyl hexanoic acid glyceride decamethyl cyclic pentapolysiloxane trimethylsiloxy alkyl silicic acid hydrophobization treatment colorant (black) acetic acid DL-alpha-tocopherol preservative perfume | Proper amount of the rest 51531012.515550.01 | Proper amount of the rest 51551012.515550.01 | Proper amount of the rest 515101012.515550.01 |
| Evaluation of | |||
| High temperature stability hardness of separation effect of curling effect, lasting effect, thickening effect, gloss and color development | ◎○◎○○○◎40 | ◎○◎△○○◎52 | ◎○◎×△△◎78 |
In tables V to VI, "(palmitic acid/octanoic acid) dextrin ester(*1)"use" レオパ - ル (trade mark) TT "(made by Qianye Mill) and" dextrin palmitate(*4)"レオパ - ル (trade mark) KL" and "Qianye powder (manufactured by Qianye Kabushiki Kaisha)" were used.
Sucrose acetate stearate(*3)"use" コスメライク (trade mark) SA-10 "(manufactured by first Industrial pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.) (degree of ester substitution 8; constituent fatty acid: stearic acid: about 70%).
Sucrose tetraisostearate(*5)"use" クロデスタ (trade mark) 4-IS "(クロ - ダジヤパン (manufactured by LTD.) (degree of substitution of ester IS about 4; monoester: di-tri-or higher ═ about 0 to 0.5: about 1: about 98.5 to 99 (tetra-ester 50% or higher))
Example 11 (lipstick)
Compounding ingredients
Mass%
Candelilla wax 2
Carnauba wax 3
Sucrose acetate stearate (ester average degree of substitution about 8) 20
Dextrin palmitate ester "レオパ - ル (trade mark) KL"; (Qianye Mill (manufactured by Qianye Mill.) 10)
Diisostearyl malate 5
Diisostearic acid glyceride 1
Trimethylolpropane trioctanoate 0.5
The balance of glycerol tris 2-ethylhexanoate
Calcium hydrogen phosphate 1
Proper amount of polysiloxane-coated pigment (titanium oxide)
Proper amount of polysiloxane coated pigment (iron oxide red)
Barium sulfate 2
Carmine coated mica titanium 2
Proper amount of dye
Heavy flow isoparaffins 10
Example 12 (lip gloss)
Compounding ingredients
Mass%
The balance of mobile isoparaffin
Sucrose mixed fatty acid ester 40
(コスメライク (trade Mark) MX-10 "(manufactured by first Industrial pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.))
Glycerol tris 2-ethylhexanoate 10
Polysiloxane coated pigment (iron oxide) 0.1
Polysiloxane-coated pigment (titanium oxide) 0.1
Polysiloxane coated pigment (iron oxide red) 0.1
Barium sulfate 0.1
Proper amount of iron oxide red coated mica
0.1% of delta-tocopherol
Proper amount of pigment
Dextrin myristate "レオパ - ル (trade mark) MKL"; (Qianye milling (manufactured by Qianye Kao))
15
Heavy flow isoparaffins 2
Example 13 (eyelash oil)
Compounding ingredients
Mass%
Light isoparaffin residue
Dimethylpolysiloxane 3
Decamethyl cyclic pentasiloxane 5
Octyl palmitate 1
Isostearic acid 1
Microcrystalline wax 1
Carnauba wax 2
Beeswax 2
(palmitic acid/octanoic acid) dextrin ester 15
Sucrose mixed fatty acid ester 20
("コスメライク (trade Mark) MX-10" (manufactured by first Industrial pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.))
Sucrose tetraisostearate 10
("クロデスタ (trademark) 4-IS"; (クロ - ダジヤパン, manufactured by KOKAI Co., Ltd.)
Trimethylsiloxy silicic acid 5
Aluminum stearate 1
Polysiloxane coated pigment (iron oxide) 0.5
Polysiloxane-coated pigment (titanium oxide) 0.3
Polysiloxane coated pigment (iron oxide red) 0.1
Barium sulfate 0.1
Proper amount of iron oxide red coated mica
0.1% of delta-tocopherol
Claims (8)
1. An oil-based cosmetic composition comprising a base cosmetic material and, incorporated therein, (a) a dextrin fatty acid ester, (b) a sucrose fatty acid ester having an average degree of substitution of the ester of 3 to 8, (c) 5% by mass or less of an oil component which is solid at 30 ℃ to the total amount of the oil-based cosmetic material, and (g) 30 to 80% by mass of a volatile oil component to the total amount of the oil-based cosmetic material, wherein the oil-based cosmetic composition comprises 5 to 40% by mass of the component (a) and 5 to 50% by mass of the component (b).
2. The oil-based cosmetic according to claim 1, further comprising (d) 1 to 50% by mass of an oil component that is liquid at 30 ℃, i.e., a mobile oil component that does not volatilize at room temperature, based on the total amount of the oil-based cosmetic.
3. The oil-based cosmetic according to claim 1, further comprising (e) 0.01 to 30% by mass of a coloring agent based on the total amount of the oil-based cosmetic.
4. The oil-based cosmetic according to claim 1, further comprising (f) a film-forming agent in an amount of 1 to 40% by mass based on the total amount of the oil-based cosmetic.
5. The oil-based cosmetic according to claim 1, which comprises 40 to 70% by mass (g) of a volatile oil component based on the total amount of the oil-based cosmetic.
6. The oily cosmetic according to claim 1, which has a hardness at 30 ℃ in the range of 10 to 150, as measured using a Curd tensiometer Curd tensile meter under a load of 8mm Φ/200 g.
7. The oily cosmetic according to claim 1, which is a hair cosmetic.
8. The oily cosmetic according to claim 7, which is a cosmetic for eyelashes.
Applications Claiming Priority (7)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2004244345 | 2004-08-24 | ||
| JP244345/2004 | 2004-08-24 | ||
| JP105626/2005 | 2005-04-01 | ||
| JP2005105626 | 2005-04-01 | ||
| JP2005228835A JP4906040B2 (en) | 2004-08-24 | 2005-08-05 | Oily cosmetics |
| JP228835/2005 | 2005-08-05 | ||
| PCT/JP2005/015588 WO2006022395A1 (en) | 2004-08-24 | 2005-08-22 | Oily cosmetic preparation |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| HK1112179A1 HK1112179A1 (en) | 2008-08-29 |
| HK1112179B true HK1112179B (en) | 2011-10-21 |
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