HK1173663B - Clear or translucent composition - Google Patents

Description

Transparent or translucent composition

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application claims priority to USSN 13/080,034 filed on 5/4/2011, which is incorporated by reference herein in its entirety for all purposes.

Technical Field

The present disclosure relates to the fields of cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and personal care. In particular, the combination of components that results in a transparent or translucent composition can be processed under specific conditions using existing manufacturing equipment. The process of the present disclosure results in the formation of a transparent or translucent composition obtained in an unexpected and highly advantageous manner.

Background

Cosmetic formulations or personal care products may be prepared in solid, semi-solid or gel compositions. For example, compressed powder sticks, gel sticks, and wax sticks are conventionally used. These formulation types have advantages in certain circumstances, however, each also has disadvantages. Compressed powder sticks are known to be brittle and hard, and have a tendency to leave cosmetically unacceptable dust after application. While gels may provide excellent aesthetic characteristics, they may be unstable due to, for example, undesirable interactions between gelling agents, which are typically used to solidify such sticks, and "active" ingredients (e.g., sunscreens and antiperspirant salts). Wax-based formulations can also produce a product that is cosmetically unacceptable due to its hardness, greasiness, and stickiness. Another disadvantage of wax-based stick formulations is that the wax results in an opaque formulation which interferes with the true color of the colorant being presented. Furthermore, conventional wax-based formulations tend to become harder, i.e. the compositions are not soft and often lead to sluggish (draggy) applications.

Another problem in the art is that clear stick compositions tend to sweat one or more solvents under elevated temperature conditions (sweet). In addition, such rods melt under high temperature conditions and are likely to become cloudy when cycled between freezing conditions and ambient temperatures of typically 25 ℃. Generally, these elevated temperatures and/or freezing temperatures occur during storage and transport of the stick product.

Accordingly, it is an object of the disclosure to provide a transparent or translucent composition that has sufficient strength to avoid solvent bleed out of the composition at elevated temperatures, is capable of cycling between different temperatures and maintains transparency and delivers true color.

SUMMARY

It is an object of the disclosure to provide a transparent or translucent composition comprising:

(a) at least 2 amino acid-based gelling agents;

(b) a fatty alcohol;

(c) at least one polyamide resin

(d) An alkyl dimethicone; and

(e) an oil, a polymer, or a combination thereof,

wherein the composition has a dissolution temperature at or below about 115 ℃ and a dissolution time occurs within minutes.

Another object of the disclosure relates to transparent or translucent compositions in the form of solid, semi-solid or viscous gels. A further embodiment relates to a transparent or translucent composition in stick form.

It is an object of the disclosure to produce a transparent or translucent rod having a reproducible hardness. Without such high bar strength, the bar cannot be removed from the manufacturing mold without damage.

In another object of the disclosure, the transparent or translucent composition of the disclosure is a cosmetic, cosmeceutical or personal care product.

One object of the disclosure is a coloring composition in which a colorant and a transparent or translucent composition are combined. Colorants may include conventional colorants, as well as and without one or more of surface treatments, goniochromatic (goniochromatic) colorants, multi-dimensional pigments, pearlescent agents (pearlescents), and holographic glitters.

In a further object of the present invention, the unique combination of components or ingredients results in a transparent or translucent composition that is processed using existing cosmetic manufacturing equipment.

Another object relates to a method for manufacturing a transparent or translucent rod having a high rod strength.

In a further object of the present invention, a method of producing a transparent or translucent composition comprises mixing components (a), (b), (c), (d), and (e) to produce a transparent or translucent composition, wherein the mixture of (a), (b), (c), (d), and (e) has a dissolution temperature of about 115 ℃ or less, and depending on batch size and conditions, is achieved in about 10 to about 20 minutes. It should be noted that once dissolution has been achieved, the composition may be cooled to a casting temperature below 115 ℃.

These and other objects of the present disclosure will become apparent to those skilled in the art upon a reading of the following detailed description, including illustrative embodiments and examples.

Detailed description of the invention

The present disclosure relates to transparent or translucent compositions, methods of using the same, and methods of producing transparent or translucent compositions. The composition may take the form of a solid, semi-solid or gel. Another embodiment relates to a transparent or translucent composition and additional ingredients having desirable properties.

A further embodiment relates to synergistic combinations of known ingredients that are processed with existing cosmetic manufacturing equipment and result in the production of strong stick compositions. More specifically, a transparent or translucent composition comprises:

(a) at least 2 amino acid-based gelling agents;

(b) a fatty alcohol;

(c) at least one polyamide resin

(d) An alkyl dimethicone; and an oil, a polymer, or a combination thereof.

One of the problems in the field of stick compositions is the lack of strength of the composition required during manufacture and production. Without sufficient or sufficient bar strength, the composition typically cannot be ejected from the mold or damaged when ejected or removed from the mold. The compositions of the present invention preferably employ 2 amino acid-based gelling agents, polyamide resins known as ethylenediamine hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer Bis-Di-C14-18 alkylamides, and one or more alkyldimethicone materials, in amounts increased to significantly greater than those found in the art, to form transparent or translucent compositions of the disclosure. The amino acid-based gelling agent of the present invention may have a structure according to formula (I):

wherein R is₁、R₂And R₃Is C₁-C₂₀A hydrocarbon moiety, which may be linear, branched or cyclic, and may contain one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur. R₁、R₂And R₃Selection is made independently in each case and accordinglyThis may be the same or different. Preferably, R₁、R₂And R₃Is at least one of C₅-C₂₀A hydrocarbon moiety, and more preferably, R₁Is C₆-C₂₀A hydrocarbon moiety. In general, R₁、R₂And R₃Each independently selected from branched, straight chain or cyclic alkyl groups having 320 carbon atoms. R₁、R₂And R₃Can for example each independently be selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl (e.g. n-propyl or isopropyl), butyl (e.g. n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl), pentyl (e.g. n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, cyclopentyl), hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl and the like. In one embodiment, R₁Selected from branched or straight chain alkyl groups having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms, and R₂And R₃Independently a straight chain alkyl group having 3 to 6 carbon atoms, i.e., propyl, butyl, pentyl or hexyl. Preferably, R₁Selected from branched or straight chain alkyl groups having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms, and R₂And R₃Each is n-butyl. In one embodiment, R₁Is a linear undecyl group and the compound of formula (I) is dibutyl lauroyl glutamine. In another embodiment, R₁Is a branched heptyl radical, more particularly 1-ethylpentyl radical, and the compound of formula (I) is dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide.

As the skilled person will appreciate, dissolution occurs when all the ingredients or components of the composition are completely dissolved. However, in order to achieve complete dissolution of the prior art composition comprising the amino acid based gelling agent, the temperature must be raised to or above 130 ℃, followed by a lengthy gel time of at least 15 hours in order to allow the composition to cool sufficiently to gel at a temperature of about 23 ℃ to about 25 ℃. Although the amount of amino acid-based gelling agent(s) used in prior art compositions is generally minimal (gelling agent to oil ratio 1: 100), amino acid-based gelling agents must still be processed under the extreme conditions described above for extended periods of time in order to achieve gelation. In particular, as noted above and found in the prior art, temperatures in the range of about 130 ℃ to over about 200 ℃ are generally required for those amino acid-based gelling agents to become solutions. Because of the extremely high temperatures required for dissolution, prior art compositions requiring these gelling agents are limited to a select group of oils or polymers that can withstand the extremely high temperatures.

Another disadvantage of using these gelling agents is that they typically take an extremely long time to gel. For example, for prior art gel setting or shaping (set), the time and temperature required would be about 15 hours at 25 ℃. Therefore, the processing of these gelling agents in the art uses much energy due to the high dissolution temperature, reduces the output in view of the lengthy time required to obtain the product, limits the oils or polymers that can be used, and increases the overall manufacturing costs.

However, the ingredients or specific combinations of components of the compositions of the present disclosure allow for dissolution at much lower temperatures and thus require a shorter amount of time to obtain the disclosed transparent or translucent compositions with improved properties over the art. As previously described, the combination of the amino acid-based gelling agent, the ethylenediamine hydrodimeric dilinoleate copolymer Bis-Di-C14-18 alkylamide, the fatty alcohol, the alkyl dimethicone, and the oil or polymer achieves dissolution at or below 115 ℃ in a range of about minutes to hours, depending on the overall batch size. In addition, the composition of the present invention is capable of setting in about a few minutes, as compared to prior art gels, which are typically about 15 hours. The compositions of the present invention can be molded, ejected, and inserted into a package in a 310 minute span, depending on the equipment and choice of coagulation conditions.

In another embodiment of the disclosure, the amino acid-based gelling agent of the present composition comprises a mixture of at least 2 amino acid-based gelling agents, 3 or more amino acid-based gelling agents may also be useful. Non-limiting examples include any of the known gelling agents, N-acetyl glutamic acid dilauramide, N-hexanoyl glutamic acid dibutylamide, N-lauroyl glutamic acid dihexylamide, N-lauroyl-glutamic acid dihexylamide, and N-acetyl amino acid amide. In a particular embodiment, the mixture of amino acid based gelling agents comprises N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide and N-2-ethylhexanoyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide. If 2 amino acid-based gelling agents are present, they are present in a weight ratio ranging between 1: 3 or 3: 1, with a preferred ratio of 2: 3. However, in another embodiment where more than 2 amino acid based gelling agents are present, the weight ratio is, for example, 1: 1. A particularly preferred ratio is 2: 3 dibutylethylhexanoylglutamine: dibutyl lauroyl glutamine.

Furthermore, the mixture or total amount of amino acid based gelling agents exceeds the above prior art gelling agents. Another embodiment of the disclosure is directed to compositions comprising amino acid-based gelling agents having a weight ratio of about 1.5% to about 6.0% of the total composition, about 2.25% to about 3.0%, or about 3.5% to about 5.0% of the total composition, in contrast to less stable stick compositions generally in the art, which comprise less than 1% amino acid-based gelling agents by weight of the total composition. Furthermore, stick compositions which are less stable in the art generally employ one or two gelling agents based on amino acids, and such compositions do not comprise polyamide resins, non-ionic fatty alcohols or alkyl dimethicones or derivatives thereof. The synergistic combination of an amino acid-based gelling agent, an ethylenediamine hydrodimer dilinoleate copolymer Bis-Di-C14-18 alkylamide and an alkyl dimethicone allows for the creation of a more rigid cosmetic stick that is able to withstand extreme environmental conditions while maintaining its integrity. In the prior art, very high temperatures are necessary to achieve dissolution of the amino acid based gelling agent. However, simethicone and polyamide resin materials are not processed at such high temperatures. In addition, polyamide resin and dimethicone help stabilize the stick in 2 ways: first, polyamide resins make the bar more rigid; and secondly, the combination of polyamide resin and dimethicone prevents the stick from "sweating". When the composition is exposed to freezing conditions or elevated temperatures, for example during storage or transport, the composition will tend to become hazy and may sweat or exude solvents when returned to ambient conditions from any of the extremes listed. However, due to the unique combination of ingredients disclosed herein, perspiration and mist are not a problem.

Another embodiment of the disclosure relates to a transparent or translucent composition comprising at least one fatty alcohol, which can dissolve an amino acid based gelling or gelling agent at or below a temperature of 115 ℃. The one or more non-ionic unsaturated fatty alcohols useful for solubilization include, but are not limited to, non-ionic mono-or polyunsaturated fatty alcohols. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols useful in the disclosure include oleyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanal, 2-hexyldecanol, and 2-undecenylpentadecanol. One particular embodiment relates to octyldodecanol. The long chain, unsaturated fatty alcohols of the compositions of the present invention are present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 45% by weight of the total composition. Other embodiments relate to amounts of about 15% to about 30%, and further about 16% to about 25.5%, by weight of the total composition.

The choice of fatty alcohol depends on its ability to dissolve the gelling agent based on amino acids at or below 115 ℃. In one embodiment, useful unsaturated fatty alcohols are non-volatile. Non-volatile are defined herein as those fatty alcohols having boiling points of at least about 200 ℃, at least about 205 ℃, and at least about 210 ℃ at 1.0 atmosphere. Certain fatty alcohols of the present disclosure have, for example, one double bond (monounsaturated). They have the formula CH₃(CH₂)_xCH＝CH(CH₂)_y-CH₂OH。

Suitable fatty alcohols also include unsaturated monobasic straight chain fatty alcohols, saturated branched chain fatty alcohols, saturated C8-C12 straight chain fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. Unsaturated linear fatty alcohols generally have one degree of unsaturation. Di-and tri-unsaturated alkenyl chains may be present at low levels of less than about 5%, less than about 2%, or less than about 1% by total weight of the unsaturated, linear fatty alcohol. In particular embodiments, the unsaturated straight chain fatty alcohols have an aliphatic chain length ranging from C12-C22, C12-C18, or C16-C18, such as oleyl alcohol and palm oleyl alcohol. Non-limiting examples of non-ionic unsaturated fatty alcohols include those identified in table 1:

TABLE 1

In a further embodiment, the polyamide resin provides a significant level of structural integrity when the invention is in a semi-solid or solid form. Polyamide resins are high molecular weight polymers characterized by amide linkages along the molecular chain. These polymers, which contain amide monomers linked by peptide bonds, may occur naturally or artificially, are prepared by stepwise polymerization or solid phase synthesis, and in some cases, examples of polyamide resins are nylons and aramids. Polyamide resins are commonly used in textiles, plastics, and a variety of automotive applications due to their extreme durability and strength. In the compositions of the present invention, the polyamide resin also provides gloss or shine to the composition and adhesion to the target substrate.

While the polyamide resin ethylenediamine hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer Bis-Di-C14-18 alkylamide is presently preferred, the present invention is not limited to such a polyamide resin. One skilled in the art will be able to select a suitable polyamide resin, and many suitable polymers are disclosed in ctfa handbook, 12 th edition, 2008, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference. These include, but are not limited to, polyamide-1, polyamide-2, polyamide-3, ethylenediamine/dimerized resinate copolymer dihydrogenated tallow amide, ethylenediamine/stearoyl dimerized linoleate copolymer, ethylenediamine/stearoyl dimerized resinate copolymer, and the like.

A particular embodiment of the present disclosure relates to polyamide resins, or combinations of compatible polyamide resins, in amounts ranging from about 0.1% to about 30% by weight, from about 10% to about 25% by weight, and from about 15% to about 20% by weight of the total composition. A particularly preferred polyamide resin is ethylenediamine hydrogenated dimer dioleate copolymer Bis-Di-C14-18 alkylamide.

In another embodiment, the alkyldimethicone component provides the disclosed heat stable stick composition. In addition to improving the structural strength of the disclosed compositions, thereby facilitating removal of the compositions from molds, the alkyl dimethicone and polyamide resin provide structural integrity and help prevent "sweating" of the stick composition at elevated temperatures, such as during storage or product handling. Clear stick compositions in the art tend to 'sweat' or 'run' one or more solvents at elevated temperatures. These elevated temperatures are generally between about 130 ℃ and over 200 ℃. To overcome these problems in the art, an alkyl dimethicone material (which refers to one or more alkyl dimethicones) may be included in the transparent or translucent composition of the disclosure.

As will be understood in the art, the alkyl dimethicone may be silicone or oil soluble, depending on the ratio of x, y and z in the formula below.

As the values of x and y increase, the alkyl dimethicone becomes harder and more soluble in silicone oil. As the z value increases, the alkyl dimethicone will be more soluble in oils such as vegetable oils, mineral oils, and esters, which also raise the melting temperature of the wax. As the value of x increases and the value of z decreases, the alkyl dimethicone becomes more soluble in silicone. However, as the values of y and z increase, the alkyl dimethicone becomes more oil soluble.

As is well known to those skilled in the art of formulation, varying the ratio of x, y and z determines whether the alkyl dimethicone is a liquid, soft paste or hard wax. Generally, with higher numbers of alkyl groups, for example 22 carbons, the product will be a paste or hard wax depending on the ratio of x to y. Higher values of x lower the melting point of the product. Also, olefins with 18 carbon groups, depending on the ratio of x to y, the alkyl dimethicone can range from liquid to hard waxes. Alkyl groups having 16 carbon groups or less are generally liquid to soft pastes. It has been found that when an alkyl dimethicone is added to a sunscreen, there is an improvement in the SPF value. Thus, one of ordinary skill in the art will determine the exact ratio of x, y, and z in view of factors related to the desired result. The ratio is adjusted to provide the desired effect of structure or maintenance. Factors that may be considered include the use and desired form of the final product.

A particular embodiment of the present disclosure relates to an alkyl dimethicone, or combination of compatible alkyl dimethicones, in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 30% by weight, from about 10% to about 25% by weight, and from about 15% to about 20% by weight of the total composition. The alkyl simethicone useful in the present disclosure has an alkyl group in the range of about 18% to 65% by weight of the entire alkyl simethicone, with the simethicone in the corresponding range of about 35% to about 82% by weight of the alkyl simethicone. In another embodiment, an alkyl dimethicone containing 1 to 18 carbons, such as stearyl dimethicone C18, is most useful. Additional non-limiting examples of the alkyl dimethicone of the present disclosure include behenyl dimethicone, C-32 alkyl dimethicone, isopropyl phenyl dimethicone, ceryl dimethicone, hydroxypropyl dimethicone behenate, cetyl/hexacosanyl dimethicone, andthe D and J series of alkyl dimethicones, and Multi Domain silicones (Siltech LLC; Dacula, GA).

In a further embodiment, polyamide resins are used to provide additional structural integrity to the rod compositions of the present invention. Ethylenediamine hydrodimeric dioleate copolymer Bis-Di-C14-18 alkylamide is a particularly preferred polyamide resin. Such polyamide resins may be used in the compositions of the present invention in an amount of from about 1% to about 35%/or from about 5% to 25% by weight of the total composition.

In still further embodiments, the oil or polymer of the transparent or translucent composition of the disclosure may comprise an oil or polymer, but may also be a plurality of oils, a plurality of polymers, or a combination of both, i.e., a combination of one or more oils and/or polymers. The oil or polymer of the disclosure includes, but is not limited to, a non-polar oil, a liquid polymer, a solution polymer, or a combination thereof. Oils suitable for use in the transparent or translucent compositions of the present disclosure for use in such compositions include those that upon heating sufficiently allow for the dissolution of the gelling agent and thereby result in the formation of a gel when cooled. Non-limiting examples include mineral oil, isohexadecane, jojoba oil (jojoba oils), C10-C30 cholesterol/lanosterol (Lanoesterol) esters such as Super Sterol Liquid (Croda Inc.; Edison, N.J.), mink oil, cocoa butter, coconut oil, palm seed oil, camellia oil, sesame oil, castor oil, olive oil, aloe vera extract, and silicone oil.

More specifically, illustrative ester oils include esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, triisostearyl citrate, diisostearyl maleate, diisostearyl fumarate, and the like. Liquid polymers or solution polymers useful in the present disclosure include, but are not limited to, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, triisostearyl polyglyceryl-3-dimer dilinoleate, polyglyceryl diisostearate, and the like. The oil or polymer component of the compositions disclosed herein may be in an amount ranging from about 20% to about 70% by weight of the total composition, more particularly ranging from about 32.5% to about 47.5% of the total composition, or from about 42% to about 65% of the total composition.

Without being bound by theory, in order to obtain a transparent or translucent composition having the benefit of relatively fast dissolution and gelling times and low dissolution and gelling temperatures, which have relatively increased bar strength and reduced perspiration properties, a fatty alcohol such as octyldodecanol, compatible with an amino acid based gelling agent, in particular N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide and N-2-ethyl-hexanoyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide, in a weight ratio ranging between 1: 3 or 3: 1 or more particularly 2: 3, provides complete dissolution at or below 115 ℃ and within about a few minutes.

In another embodiment, the transparent or translucent composition comprises additional components. The transparent or translucent composition may additionally include an antioxidant or mixtures thereof to protect the composition from thermal degradation. In a particular embodiment, the one or more antioxidants may be used in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 0.5% by weight of the total composition. One antioxidant useful in the transparent or translucent compositions of the disclosure is Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT). However, any antioxidant that is compatible with the other components of the present compositions may be used, including but not limited to potassium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, butylated hydroxyanisole, and the like. The antioxidant may be in an effective amount to protect the composition from degradation, for example, from about 0.01% to about 0.5%, from about 0.06% to about 0.5%, and from about 0.3% to about 0.5% by weight of the total composition. Examples 1 and 2 provide exemplary transparent or translucent formulations.

Conventional stick compositions employ high melting point waxes, for example, the use of paraffin wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, ozokerite, microcrystalline, and polyethylene waxes, to provide compositions having a structure. Such waxes have a high melting point and produce a matrix in which the structure is composed of randomly oriented crystals, resulting in an opaque appearance. Thus, these waxes interfere with the colorant and the resulting developed color is not accurate. Thus, in another embodiment of the present disclosure, a transparent or translucent composition in combination with a conventional colorant and/or a goniochromatic colorant delivers "true color" with the vibrancy (vibrancy) heretofore observed only in transparent liquid media.

In embodiments where the composition of the present invention is a color cosmetic, such as, but not limited to, a lipstick, lip gloss, or the like, the composition further comprises one or more coloring agents. It is within the skill in the art to select colorants and combine the colorants to produce a desired color or effect. Suitable conventional colorants including pigments, lakes, and dyes are well known in the art and are disclosed in c.t.f.a.cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, 1 st edition, 1988, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.Organic pigments include, for example, FD&C dye, D&The C dye comprises D&C Red numbers 2,5, 6, 7, 10, 11, 12, 13, 30 and 34, D&C yellow No. 5, blue No. 1, violet No. 2. Exemplary inorganic pigments include, but are not limited to, metal oxides and metal hydroxides, such as magnesium oxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium oxide, calcium hydroxide, aluminum oxide, aluminum hydroxide, iron oxide (alpha-Fe)₂O₃、y-Fe₂O₃、Fe₃O₄FeO), red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, iron hydroxide, titanium dioxide, lower titanium oxide (titanium low oxide), zirconium oxide, chromium hydroxide, manganese oxide, cobalt oxide, cerium oxide, nickel oxide, and zinc oxide, as well as composite oxides and composite hydroxides, such as iron titanate, cobalt titanate, and cobalt aluminate. Other suitable coloring agents include ultramarine blue (i.e., sodium aluminum sulfosilicate), prussian blue, manganese violet, bismuth oxychloride, talc, mica, sericite, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, magnesium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, silica, mica titanium, iron oxide mica titanium, bismuth oxychloride, and the like. The colorants can be surface-modified with, for example, fluoropolymers, to adjust one or more characteristics of the colorants as described, for example, in U.S. Pat. nos. 6,471,950, 5,482,547, and 4,832,944, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. The fluoropolymer may be incorporated into the present disclosure as a coating on the pigment particles that at least partially covers the surface of the pigment particles. Suitable pearlescent pigments include, but are not limited to, titanium composites containing titanium dioxide, lower titanium oxide or titanium oxynitride as the titanium component, bismuth oxychloride and guanine as disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,340,569, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

In one embodiment of the disclosure, conventional colorants are employed in amounts ranging from about 0.01% to about 30% by weight of the total composition. The combination of any such colorant with the transparent or translucent compositions disclosed herein delivers a true color that is rarely seen in conventional solid formulations. In yet another embodiment of the disclosure, the goniochromatic colorants useful in the compositions of the present invention described herein are in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight of the total composition. Goniochromatic colorants, also known as color shifting pigments (color pigments), comprise a platelet-shaped base substrate coated with alternating layers of high or low refractive index materials. Goniochromatic colorants are pigments that exhibit different colors depending on the viewing angle.

Illustrative colorants include refleks^TMMultiDimenses (BASF Corp.; Florham Park, NJ) pigments that can be shifted across the entire visual spectrum to provide multiple color effects through their borosilicate pigment technology, and SpectraFX, a powdered flake additive available in a variety of sizes from very small to very large (Alsa Corp.; Vernon, CA). Refleks^TMMultiDimensions pigments consist of calcium sodium borosilicate coated with silica, titanium dioxide and tin oxide. In a particular embodiment of the disclosure, goniochromatic colorants are added to transparent or translucent compositions to deliver unique color effects. These goniochromatic colorants range in particle size from about 1 micron to about 100 microns, or more specifically, from about 40 microns to about 80 microns, as exemplified by spectra fx pigments and refleks pigments, respectively.

A further embodiment relates to the amount of goniochromatic colorant useful in the transparent or translucent compositions of the disclosure, which ranges from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight of the total composition, and in a particular embodiment, the amount of colorant ranges from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight of the total composition. The particle size and amount of colorant used in the composition determines the final optical effect of the composition. As will be appreciated by those of ordinary skill in the art, depending on the viewing angle, a 0.5% weight percent loading of the Copper/Patina spectrafX pigment results in translucency and a perceived color shift from Copper/aeruginosa to green. However, at higher colorant loadings, the translucency of the composition is reduced due to the fact that less light may be transmitted through the composition. However, depending on the viewing angle, there is still a perceived color transition.

Similarly, in still further embodiments, pearlescent colorants in combination with transparent or translucent compositions may be used to deliver a better or more true-color effect than is seen in conventional opaque, wax-based stick compositions. Another embodiment relates to transparent or translucent compositions having holographic glitter that produces unique effects. These glitter agents include those which are holographically embossed, vacuum metallized polyester flakes such as those available from spectra Technologies, Inc. This also applies to holographic glitter in the same way that the visual effect of SpectraFX pigments changes depending on the load. The compositions of the present invention combined with holographic glitter produce a translucent appearance when added at a loading of less than about 2% by weight of the total composition, and the glitter appears as if they were suspended within the composition, such that different colors are produced by different glitter particles. However, at higher colorant loadings, the translucency decreases.

In yet a further embodiment, the transparent or translucent composition is combined with a mixture of conventional colorants and goniochromatic colorants, i.e., not a dual core as described above. When the compositions of the present invention are used in such a manner, typical amounts of conventional colorants range from about 0.1% to about 25% by weight of the total composition, and goniochromatic colorants range from about 0.1% to about 15% of the total composition.

Another embodiment relates to a method of making a transparent or translucent composition as described herein. One embodiment utilizing conventionally used machinery comprises mixing all components simultaneously at a temperature of about 115 ℃ or less sufficient to dissolve the components, including:

(a) at least 2 amino acid-based gelling agents;

(b) a fatty alcohol;

(c) at least one polyamide resin

(d) An alkyl dimethicone; and

(e) an oil, a polymer, or a combination thereof.

Typically, dissolution occurs in minutes to hours, depending on batch size. Once dissolution is achieved, the resulting mixture can be cooled to a lower casting temperature. The gelling or setting temperature is indicated when the molten composition begins to change from a free-flowing liquid to a gel, semi-solid, or solid composition. Useful gelling or setting temperatures in the present disclosure range from about 25 ℃ to about 80 ℃, from about 65 ℃ to about 80 ℃, or in the most useful embodiments, about room temperature or about 25 ℃. Again, the time required for the transparent or translucent composition to gel is on the scale of minutes rather than hours. Example 2 relates to an example of a method of producing a transparent or translucent composition of the present disclosure.

In still further embodiments of the disclosure, the method involves first mixing components (a) and (b), heating the combined mass of (a) and (b) to a temperature of at most about 115 ℃ or less, thereby dissolving the mixture. Subsequently, components (c), (d) and (e) are added simultaneously or sequentially to one another and dissolved at a similar temperature, i.e. not more than about 115 ℃. The resulting mixture of components (a), (b), (c), (d) and (e) is then cooled to form a solid, semi-solid or viscous gel composition.

Another embodiment of the disclosure relates to the addition of optional ingredients that facilitate other benefits to the compositions of the present invention. Non-limiting active or functional ingredients may include colorants, pigments, ultraviolet filters, moisturizing agents, fragrances (fragrances), insecticides, pesticides, pharmaceutical preparations, and other active or functional ingredients known in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical arts. These additional ingredients may be mixed simultaneously with the components of (a), (b), (c), (d) and (e), or with the components (c), (d) and (e), or after mixing of any or all of the components of (a), (b), (c), (d) or (e). In any event, the additional ingredients must be compatible with the parameters of the compositions of the present invention, i.e., dissolve, for example, at temperatures at or below about 115 ℃. It should be noted that optional ingredients may be added at lower temperatures as dictated by the physical or thermal limitations of the materials or the form of the desired end product. A further embodiment relates to any of the foregoing methods including the additional step of casting the molten mixture or viscous gel into a mold. It should be noted that once dissolution has been achieved, the resulting composition can be cooled from 115 ℃ to a slightly lower temperature, depending on the desired filling conditions and the form of the final product chosen. Typically, such compositions are filled or molded on automated equipment, where the time scale from pouring to molding to ejection to package insert ranges anywhere from 2 to 10 minutes. Further, depending on the product form selected and the performance attributes associated therewith, the automated apparatus mold temperature may range from about-10 ℃ to about 40 ℃.

Accordingly, the present disclosure relates to transparent or translucent compositions that can have numerous applications. In particular, the compositions of the present invention may be uncolored or colored cosmetic products that are particularly useful for application to the face, lips, eyes, cheeks, and body. In one embodiment, the transparent or translucent composition is a stick composition, for example, in foundation creams (primers), foundation creams, eye products, lip products, sun screens or sunscreens, antiperspirants, deodorants, and the like. Although solid products are widely used in cosmetics, the present disclosure is unique in that by using a fatty alcohol known as octyldodecanol and further addition of an alkyl dimethicone and a polyamide resin, the gel formation step is preformed at a significantly lower temperature, which results in a product in the form of a solid, semi-solid, or viscous gel. The resulting composition is heat stable over any of the prior art employing one or more amino acid-based gelling agents. Additional ingredients may be included depending on the particular use of the transparent or translucent composition.

Another embodiment of the present disclosure relates to the combination of a transparent or translucent composition as described herein with a conventional colored lipstick composition as a separate entity to produce a mixed lip product. In another embodiment of the present disclosure, a transparent or translucent composition may be combined with a conventional wax-based lipstick or the present compositions of the present disclosure containing a colorant. Such a combination may be present, for example, in a cylindrical lipstick composition, half of which, viewed from the top down, is a conventional lipstick, and the other half is a transparent or translucent composition of the invention (with or without colorants). Another embodiment relates to a dual karyotype configuration. For example, a transparent or translucent composition of the invention may form an outer shell and a conventional lipstick forms an inner core such that the outer shell surrounds the inner core, which is visible by forming concentric circles of the transparent or translucent outer shell. Similarly, a colored composition of the present invention may form the core such that even if a transparent or translucent shell surrounds the core, the color from the core is visible. Infinite combinations of colors are possible, and further specialized color effects are possible by incorporating goniochromatic pigments in the outer transparent shell, so that they are complementary to the coloring of the core, or in particular embodiments, the colorant is in the core. The loading of the colorant in the different concentric portions is dictated by the desired final visual effect as applied or as stored. Another embodiment of the present disclosure relates to a light source for projecting light into a transparent gel, thereby illuminating the gel and providing additional visual effects. Non-limiting examples of light sources can be incandescent, infrared, laser, fluorescent, and natural. In embodiments, the present invention relates to a packaged lip care product comprising a container for containing a lip composition, a lid on the container to limit exposure of the composition to air when not in use, and a mechanical device associated with the container for dispensing the composition from the container. The container comprises a tube filled with a composition according to the invention and a light source, such as an LED, in the body of the container, which is capable of illuminating the composition when exposed, for example by removing a cap on the container or by pressing a pressure regulator or switch.

A further embodiment of the disclosure relates to a composition, preferably a topical solid stick, semi-solid or gel, which is a cosmetic, personal care product, cosmeceutical or medicinal preparation, insect repellent or sunscreen product (sun product), wherein the composition comprises a fatty alcohol sufficient to solubilize other components, such as at least 2 amino acid based gelling agents, oils, polymers, antioxidants, fragrances and the like. The disclosed compositions may be used in products such as, but not limited to, color cosmetics, sun care, skin care, hair products (shampoos, conditioners, hairsprays, mousses, and dyes/colorants), mascara, nail polish, lip coloring products, foundation, eye make-up, skin care products, personal hygiene products, and topical drug or activity delivery.

In another embodiment, the compositions of the disclosure may also include any additives envisioned to be commonly used in the art, such as antioxidants, fragrances, essential oils, stabilizers, cosmetic actives, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, lipophilic sunscreens, liposoluble polymers, and especially hydrocarbon polymers such as polyalkylene and polyamide, for improving smoothness or spreadability, water and oil repellency, transfer resistance, or other cosmetic or cosmeceutical properties desired by one skilled in the art. Non-limiting examples of optional additional ingredients include: emollients, thickeners such as opacifying agents, clays or organoclays, silicas, cellulose derivatives, plasticizers, gels, fatty acids, fats, powders, oils, preservatives, solvents, surfactants; hectorite; synthetic polymers such as acrylic polymers or associative polymers of the polyurethane type; a spreading agent; a dispersant; a preservative; an antifoaming agent; a humectant; an anti-ultraviolet agent; a fragrance; fillers and extenders; a binder; a cosmetic or pharmaceutical active agent; a moisturizing liquid; sensory enhancers include, but are not limited to, powders and oils; vitamins and their derivatives; and biological materials and derivatives thereof. If the softness and elasticity of the composition are to be increased still further, plasticizers, which are usually added for cosmetic materials, may also be added. Suitable materials may include low and high molecular weight plasticizers, which are optionally used, solubilized or dissolved in a co-solvent.

Suspending and thickening agents typically include silica gels, gums, clays, fumed silica, fatty acid soaps, and various hydrocarbon gels, and other ingredients that remain on the surface of the keratinous tissue when incorporated into the formulation. Non-limiting examples of ingredients that may be preferably used in the compositions of the disclosure such as emollients include glycerin, propylene glycol, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, and emollients and other similar ingredients disclosed in International Cosmetic Dictionary and Handbook, volumes 1 and 2, editors, Wenninger, J.A. and G.N.McEwen, Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Washington DC, 2000, which are incorporated herein by reference.

Pigments which are not necessarily one of the abovementioned goniochromatic pigments are understood to mean inorganic or organic, white or coloured particles. Colorants that may be used in the practice of the disclosure may include pigments, lakes, and dyes, which are well known in the art and are disclosed in Cosmetic ingredient Handbook, 1 st edition, j.m. nikitaki, et al, Cosmetic, toiletty, and Fragrance Association, Washington DC, 1988, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. Depending on the application for the composition, pigments may be added to provide color or no color.

Other embodiments may relate to the composition of the invention with fillers, nacres, etc. to modify the texture and matte or shiny appearance of the composition. Fillers are understood as meaning lamellar or non-lamellar, inorganic or synthetic, colorless or white particles. Nacre is understood to mean iridescent particles produced or synthesized, in particular by specific molluscs in their shell. Pearling agents that may be used in the practice of the disclosure include mica, iron oxide, titanium dioxide, and any other pearling agent known in the cosmetic art. Non-limiting examples of fillers and microspheres used alone or in combination, such as compact composition prototypes, include: talc, corn starch nylon powder, polymethyl methacrylate, polytetrafluoroethylene, zinc stearate, boron nitride, calcium silicate, and the like.

Compounds commonly used in the cosmetic art to prevent or reduce the growth of fungi, bacteria or microorganisms are also incorporated into the compositions of the disclosure. By including these compounds, the shelf life of the composition is extended. These antifungal or antimicrobial agents include, but are not limited to, methylparaben, butylparaben, sodium dehydroacetate, and the like. These antifungal or antimicrobial ingredients are present in an amount effective to reduce growth without adversely affecting the components or desired effects of the compositions of the present invention.

The person skilled in the art will of course be careful to select the optional further compounds and/or the amounts thereof in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the disclosure are not impaired by or not substantially impaired by the envisaged addition. However, in embodiments where these materials are added to the formulations of the disclosure to enhance the spreadability and emolliency of the product, it is preferred that the above materials be present in sufficiently low concentrations for the formulation to retain its desired properties. These ingredients may be variously selected by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having desired properties, such as composition strength, true color optical effects, and dissolution temperature equivalent to several minutes to about 115 ℃ or less compared to several hours. The selection of additional ingredients and their concentrations can also be adjusted to alter the desired properties. In one embodiment, a fragrance may be added for surface purposes, for example to make the present compositions more attractive to consumers.

This technique and the compositions of the present invention can be applied to a wide variety of anhydrous and powdered products, including but not limited to: foundation creams, concealers, mascaras, blushes, eye liners, eye shadows, face or body powders, and skin care products such as sun block and insect repellents. In particular, the compositions of the disclosure may include cosmetic formulations. One embodiment of the disclosure is directed to a cosmetic foundation wherein the formulation of the cosmetic foundation may contain, in addition to the composition of the disclosure, additional thickeners and emollients in amounts to provide coverage and achieve other desired properties.

A further embodiment of the disclosure includes a lotion or stick composition comprising a reflector, an absorber, or a uv filter to provide a tanning lotion or sunscreen. A convenient means of carrying sun screens is in solid stick formulations. The stick formulation avoids the disadvantages of lotions.

Another embodiment of the disclosure includes an eyeliner and an eyeshadow product. For example, eyeliners and eyeshadows employing the disclosed compositions may provide increased color variability when the disclosed compositions are presented with goniochromatic pigments.

The compositions of the present invention are packaged, for example, into kits or articles of manufacture and application devices for any embodiment of the disclosure, selected and manufactured by those of ordinary skill in the art based on their general knowledge and adapted according to the nature of the composition to be packaged. Furthermore, the type of device to be used may be particularly correlated with the consistency of the composition, in particular its viscosity; it may also depend on the nature of the constituent ingredients present in the composition, for example the presence of volatile compounds. The kit or article of manufacture may include, but is not limited to, the compositions of the invention, a device for applying the compositions of the invention, instructions regarding the use and application of the compositions of the invention, a list of ingredients, and/or warnings, and the like. Preferably the article of manufacture is one which presents a stick composition.

The contents of all patents, patent applications, published PCT applications and treatises, books, references, reference manuals and abstracts cited herein are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety to more fully describe the state of the art to which the disclosure pertains.

As various changes could be made in the above subject matter without departing from the scope and spirit of the disclosure, it is intended that all subject matter contained in the above description or defined in the appended claims shall be interpreted as illustrative and explanatory of the disclosure. Many modifications and variations of the present disclosure are possible in light of the above teachings.

Examples

The following examples further describe and demonstrate embodiments within the scope of the present disclosure. The examples are given solely for the purpose of illustration and are not to be construed as limitations of the present disclosure, as many variations thereof are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the disclosure. The following exemplary compositions are given by way of illustration only and are not intended to limit the scope of the disclosure in any way.

Example 1

Transparent or translucent stick composition

All of the ingredients identified in Table 2 were mixed at a temperature of about 115 ℃ for about 5 to about 15 minutes at a speed of about 500-. Although a "conventional" mixer using low shear may be used, the process takes longer. The clear solution is poured into a mold to form a clear or translucent stick composition.

TABLE 2

Composition (I)	Weight percent (%)
		EB-21	6.00
GP-1	9.00
		Octyl dodecanol	85.00

Example 2

Transparent or translucent stick composition

All of the ingredients identified in Table 3 were mixed at a temperature of about 115 ℃ for about 5 to about 15 minutes at a speed of about 500-. The clear solution is poured into a mold to form a clear or translucent stick composition.

TABLE 3

Composition (I)	Weight percent (%)
		Dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide	2.00
Dibutyl lauroyl Glutamine	3.00
		Octyl dodecanol	28.00
Hydrogenated polyisobutenes	38.95
		Ethylene diamine hydrogenated dimeric dioleate copolymer Bis-Di-C14-18 alkylamide	15.80
Stearyl dimethicone	5.00
		BHT	0.25
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate	7.00

Example 3

Method for preparing transparent or translucent stick compositions

To obtain a transparent or translucent composition, the components are combined such that the dissolution temperature and the gelation temperature are below temperatures typically found or expected based on the characteristics of the individual components. The time for the components to dissolve and form a gel is also much shorter, corresponding to minutes to hours (batch size from 100 g to 2 kg).

The mixture of table 2 was heated to a temperature of 115 ℃ for about 5 to about 15 minutes, or until a clear solution was obtained. The resulting pre-heated mixture of gel concentrate and oil or polymer is combined with additional optional components such as antioxidants, sunscreen lotion and fragrances as shown in table 4 below.

TABLE 4

Composition (I)	Weight percent (%)
		Gel concentrates of Table 2	20-30
Alkyl dimethicone	5-25
		Polyamide resin	5-25
Oil	40-70
		Antioxidant agent	0.01-0.5
Sunscreen agent	5-7
		Aromatic agent	0-0.5

The resulting molten formulation is cast into a mold and cooled at a temperature of about-10 ℃ to about 40 ℃ for about 3 to 10 minutes to form the transparent or translucent stick composition of the disclosure.

The compositions listed in table 5 are non-limiting examples of coloring compositions that may be used independently or as part of a multi-phase product as in the case of a central core lipstick. Wherein the composition listed in table 5 acts as the inner core and the composition of table 3 acts as the outer shell, thereby producing a formulation within which the inner core is caused to be visible through the outer shell. In this case, it is preferable to use a colorant treated with a fluoropolymer to suppress color shift from the core formulation into the transparent shell.

TABLE 5

Composition (I)	Weight percent (%)
		Hydrogenated polyisobutenes	11.70
Diisostearyl malate	5.00
		Dioleyl dimer dioleate	5.00
Stearyl dimethicone (MP 28.5-31.0)	3.60
		Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate	5.00
Tocopheryl acetate-SYN	0.70
		Octyl dodecanol	17.00
Dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide	1.50
		Dibutyl lauroyl Glutamine	2.20
Ethylene diamine hydrogenated dimeric dioleate copolymer Bis-Di-C14-18 alkylamide	11.00
		Hydrogenated polyisobutene/gelling agent/BHT	13.00
TIT.DIOXIDE/TITANATE TRTD	1.95
		D&C RED NO.7-99.2％/FLUORO-SILANE TRTD.	5.85
IRON OXIDES-RED ISOPROP.TIT.TRIISOST.(ITT)TRTD.	5.20
		CLOISONNE BLUE FLAMBE#650Z	4.50
TIMICA EXTRA Bright 1500	4.80
		SILICA 2-20MICRO SPHERE MSS 500/3	2.00

Claims (18)

1. A lipstick comprising a translucent outer shell surrounding a colored inner core such that said inner core is visible through said outer shell, wherein said outer shell and inner core comprise: N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide, N-2-ethylhexanoyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide, octyldodecanol, hydrogenated polyisobutene, ethylenediamine hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer Bi s-Di-C14-18 alkylamide, and stearyl dimethicone, wherein the lipstick has a dissolution temperature at or below 115 ℃.

2. A lipstick according to claim 1, wherein said N-2-ethylhexanoyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide and N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide are present in a weight ratio ranging from 1: 3 to 3: 1.

3. A lipstick according to claim 1, wherein said N-2-ethylhexanoyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide and N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide are present in a weight ratio of 1: 1.

4. A lipstick according to claim 1, wherein said octyldodecanol is in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight of the total composition.

5. The lipstick of claim 1, further comprising at least one antioxidant.

6. A lipstick according to claim 5, wherein said antioxidant is butylated hydroxytoluene.

7. The lipstick of claim 1, further comprising a colorant.

8. A lipstick according to claim 7, said colorant being: pigments, dyes, goniochromatic colorants, aluminum salts, pearlescent agents, glitter, or combinations thereof.

9. A lipstick according to claim 8, said goniochromatic colorant being present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5.0% by weight of the total composition.

10. A lipstick according to claim 8, said aluminium salt being an aluminium lake.

11. A lipstick according to claim 8, said glitter being holographically embossed, vacuum metallized polyester flakes.

12. A lipstick according to claim 8, said colorant being surface treated with a fluoropolymer or a combination of fluoropolymers.

13. A lipstick according to claim 11, said holographically embossed, vacuum metallized polyester flakes are in an amount less than 2% by weight of the total composition.

14. A method of making the lipstick of any one of claims 1-13, comprising:

mixing components comprising:

N-2-ethylhexanoyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide, octyldodecanol, hydrogenated polyisobutene, ethylenediamine hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer Bi s-Di-C14-18 alkylamide, and stearyl dimethicone; and

dissolving the components at a temperature of 115 ℃ or less, thereby producing a transparent or translucent composition.

15. The method of claim 14 wherein the components N-2-ethylhexanoyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide and octyldodecanol are first mixed and heated at 115 ℃ or less, followed by the addition of the ethylenediamine hydrodimer dilinoleate copolymer Bi s-Di-C14-18 alkylamide, stearyl dimethicone and hydrogenated polyisobutene.

16. The method of claim 14, wherein the mixture of dissolved components forms a viscous gel, semi-solid, or solid composition.

17. The method of claim 16, further comprising casting the molten mixture into a mold and enabling removal within minutes without structural or visible defects to the molded part.

18. The method of claim 14, further comprising adding additional ingredients: antioxidants, composition enhancing ingredients, colorants, fragrances, antiperspirant actives, deodorant actives, ultraviolet light filters, antifungal compounds, antimicrobial compounds, or combinations thereof.