HK1173051B - Gemstone with a chaton cut - Google Patents
Gemstone with a chaton cut Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- HK1173051B HK1173051B HK13100474.0A HK13100474A HK1173051B HK 1173051 B HK1173051 B HK 1173051B HK 13100474 A HK13100474 A HK 13100474A HK 1173051 B HK1173051 B HK 1173051B
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- HK
- Hong Kong
- Prior art keywords
- gemstone
- angle
- waistline
- pavilion
- crown
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Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a gemstone with a water-drilling type polishing structure (Chatonschliff).
Background
In order to improve the brilliance and other optical properties of polished faceted gemstones, different types of polishing structures have been developed, which differ on the one hand by the number of facets and on the other hand by the geometrical position of the facets with respect to each other.
In particular in the field of water drilling (chaton bereich), so-called otton sandwiches (oktantschlift) or satin sandwiches (Xilionschliff), for example Swarovski gemstones a1200 and a1028 of schwaroch, have been found to be stable on the market over the past time, since these series of structures have proven to be aesthetically pleasing and can be sanded well.
Important parameters for evaluating gemstones are the so-called "Fire" and "LightReturn", which are based on countless internal light reflections. The light reflection occurs at individual facets that are set up in a specific angular relationship to each other that characterizes the respective grinding structure. The gemstone's abrasive structure and material are thus determinative of the "sparkle" and "retroreflection of light" produced.
The "light retroreflection" value indicates: how much light that strikes the gemstone from the predetermined spatial angular region returns to the observer substantially along the axis of symmetry of the gemstone within a relatively narrow (opening angle 3) oriented spatial angular region.
Another important feature for evaluating the brilliance of a gemstone is "fire". "sparkle" is a characteristic of a gemstone that decomposes incident white light into its spectral components. The formation/behavior of this property is related to the material (dispersion effect) and the abrasive structure.
Gemstones with a water-drilled burr structure have a crown, also known as the crown, comprising a number of lateral facets and a central flat table, and a pavilion, also known as the pavilion, comprising a number of facets. The end of the stone opposite the table may be configured as a point or rounded point in the form of a so-called pavilion (Kalette). A so-called waist circumference (peripheral edge) may be provided between the top and bottom. The gemstone may be polished symmetrically or asymmetrically.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to: the aesthetic appearance of gemstones with water-drilled abrasive structures is further improved by optimizing the optical parameters, in particular the "sparkle" and the "retroreflection of light".
To this end, the invention provides a gemstone with a water-burred gemstone-like gemstone of a structure, in which the facets of the crown that slope down around with respect to the table are connected to the flat table of the crown, these facets extending to the waistline, at which the gemstone has its largest transverse dimension, wherein a pavilion is connected below the waistline, which pavilion is formed by the facets converging together, wherein the gemstone is at least for the most part made of glass, characterized in that the magnitude of the crown angle is between 40.5 ° and 42.5 °, and the magnitude of the angle between the waistline and the crown facet that adjoins the table with a broadside is between 33.5 ° and 35.5 °.
The gemstone is provided with a water-drilled gemstone texture such that the crown angle is between 40.5 ° and 42.5 °, unexpectedly resulting in a particularly high level of Light retroreflection ("Light Return") while having a high level of "sparkle". Particularly good results are produced for the scintillation (sparkle of a moving gemstone) and the brilliance of the gemstone.
Crown angle means: in a side view of the gemstone, the angle formed between the lateral boundary of the crown portion and the waist surface, wherein the boundary is derived from a perpendicular projection of a facet of the crown portion onto a plane containing the longitudinal axis of the gemstone.
The waistline plane refers to the plane that is arranged parallel to the table and in which the gemstone has its largest cross-sectional extent. The waistline is oriented perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the gemstone.
The "Light Return" (Light retro-reflection) and "Fire" (Fire) can be measured, for example, as described later with the aid of fig. 5 and 6. Instead of real measurements, measurements may be made by computer simulations, depending on the geometry and material of the stone.
It has also been demonstrated that a particularly preferred crown angle range (α) is between 41.75 ° and 42.25 °. It is entirely particularly preferred that the crown angle (α) is 41.95 °.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the magnitude of the pavilion angle (β) is between 39.5 ° and 41.5 °, preferably between 40.5 ° and 41.0 °, and most preferably 40.73 °.
The pavilion angle is: in a side view of the stone, the corner formed between the lateral boundary of the pavilion and the girdle, wherein the boundary is derived from a vertical projection of a pavilion facet onto a plane containing the longitudinal axis of the stone.
Although the gemstone according to the invention may preferably be made of glass, it is also possible that: gemstones made of natural or synthetic precious or semi-precious stones or plastic carry the water-drilled abrasive structures of the present invention.
The crown of the gemstone has a table, also known as the crown, and eight crown facets each adjoin the table with one broadside. In one embodiment of the invention, the crown facets are angled between 33.5 ° and 35.5 ° (preferably between 34.25 ° and 34.75 °, and most preferably 34.52 °) relative to the waist surface.
In addition, the crown has eight other crown facets, each adjoining the waist with one broadside. In one embodiment of the invention, the magnitude of the angle between the crown facets and the waist surface is between 40.5 ° and 42.5 ° (preferably between 41.75 ° and 42.25 °, and most preferably 41.95 °). Finally the perpendicular projection of the crown facets yields the crown angle.
Pavilions are also known as a base, having at least 16 pavilion facets converging at an end opposite a table facet in the form of a pointed or pointed base. Here, in one embodiment, the eight pavilion facets have cusps disposed toward the girth direction, and the eight pavilion facets have broadsides adjacent to the girth. The ends of the pavilion facets opposite the broadsides converge sharply and point away from the waist. In one embodiment, the pavilion facets adjoining the waist circumference with broadsides have an angle of between 39.5 ° and 41.5 °, preferably an angle of between 40.5 ° and 41 °, and most preferably an angle of 40.73 ° with respect to the waist circumference. Finally, the vertical projection of the pavilion facet obtains a pavilion angle.
In one embodiment of the invention, the angle between the waistline and those pavilion facets having cusps adjacent to or disposed toward the waistline is between 35.0 ° and 37.0 ° (preferably between 36.0 ° and 36.5 °, and most preferably 36.28 °).
Drawings
Further details and advantages of the invention will be explained in detail below with the aid of the description of the figures with reference to the drawings:
fig. 1a to 1 c: the side view, top view and view from below of the gemstone of the present invention,
FIG. 2: a schematic for determining crown and pavilion angles,
fig. 3a and 3 b: a prior art gemstone (SwarovskiA1200) was compared with a gemstone according to the present invention by a schematic representation of the optical path,
FIG. 4: the light retroreflection/fire-chart,
FIG. 5: a schematic view of a measuring device for measuring "Light Return" (Light retro-reflection),
FIG. 6: schematic view of a measuring device for measuring "Fire",
fig. 7a to 7 c: a side view of another embodiment of a gemstone according to the present invention.
Detailed Description
Fig. 1a shows a gemstone according to the present invention in side view. A waistline 4 is visible, which separates the crown 2, also called the top, from the pavilion 3, also called the bottom. The waist circumference 4 refers to that area of maximum cross-sectional extension of the stone 1. Furthermore, the symmetry axis (longitudinal axis L) of the stone is also schematically shown.
The pavilion 3 has two types of pavilion facets 8, 9 (double-layered grinding structure). Here, the eight pavilion facets 9 have broad sides, and these pavilion facets adjoin the waist 4 with the broad sides. The remaining eight pavilion facets have cusps that adjoin the girth 4, respectively.
The crown 2 also has sixteen facets 10 and 11 and a flat mesa 5 oriented parallel to the waistline plane 7 and perpendicular to the longitudinal axis L.
The eight crown facets 11 each adjoin the waist 4 with one broad side and have a pointed tip pointing in the direction of the table top 5. Eight additional crown facets 10 each adjoin the table 5 with one broadside (double-ground structure).
Figure 1b shows a top view of the crown 2 of the gemstone 1. The symmetry of the stone 1 can be seen by the schematically shown coordinate cross on the table 5. The longitudinal axis L extends through the center of the coordinate cross.
Fig. 1c shows a view of the pavilion 3 of the gemstone 1 from below. At the tip 6, which is constructed from mutually adjoining pavilion facets 8, another coordinate cross is symbolically shown for illustrating the symmetry of the stone 1.
Fig. 2 shows a schematic diagram for explaining a crown angle α formed between the waistline 7 and a lateral boundary 16 of the crown 2, and a pavilion angle β formed between a lateral boundary 17 of the pavilion 3 and the waistline 7.
Fig. 3a shows a prior art gemstone 1' with a water-drilled gemstone texture (SwarovskiA 1200). Based on the angle at which the pavilion facets are ground, the beam 13 entering the gemstone is only partially reflected back in the viewing direction at the pavilion 3', particularly due to the crown and pavilion angles. A portion of the light is broken or scattered sideways in the form of light 14. The light ray retroreflection value decreases.
Fig. 3b shows the same view of a gemstone 1 according to the present invention. Due to the special geometry of the different facet and crown angles α and the pavilion angles β, the light retroreflection is significantly improved, since a large part of the light is totally reflected in the region of the pavilion 3, so that almost all the light 13 portion entering the crown 2 is reflected back to the observer in the form of light 15 emerging from the crown 2, after possibly multiple reflections.
The following chart shows: the difference between the known gemstone a1200 of the applicant in the prior art compared to the embodiment of gemstone "1021" according to the invention.
Fig. 4 shows the position of a gemstone 1021 in a so-called ray retro-reflection/fire-chart according to the invention. It can be seen that the gemstone according to the present invention, relative to the prior art a1200 and the applicant's other gemstone a1028, has both a high retroreflection value and a high sparkle value, and therefore is superior to the prior art in terms of optical properties and aesthetic appearance.
FIG. 5 shows a schematic view of a measuring device for measuring the retroreflection of light rays by a gemstone. The gemstone 1, which is centered on the base circle 17 of the hemisphere 16, is illuminated by light 18 using a hemispherical illuminator 16, so that the crown 2 of the gemstone 1 is illuminated by white, diffuse light, wherein the beam of light strikes the gemstone 1 and is reflected by the gemstone in a hemispherical manner, except for the shaded area 19. The base circle 17 is shaded except for the void for the gemstone 1 so that no light is directed onto the gemstone 1 from below the base circle 17. Also shaded is a region 19 of the hemisphere 16, which is exactly opposite the gemstone 1 and has an opening angle of 46 °. No light is directed to the gemstone 1 from this region. The region 19 has a gap 20 with an opening angle of 3 °. This gap 20 is a narrow measuring zone for the probe. Thus, a detector for measuring the light flux can be provided above the gap 20.
Instead of this, the value of the corresponding light unit (light equivalent) can also be calculated in a computer simulation, for example the brightness in the region of this recess 20.
The amount of light reflected upwardly by the gemstone 1 constitutes an average over almost all possible lighting devices and from this a quantitative numerical measure for the quantification of the retro-reflection of light by the gemstone 1 is derived. Here, the reflections occur at the different facets so that the light is reflected back towards the void not only directly on the first incidence on the gemstone, but also after multiple internal reflections.
Fig. 6 shows a measuring device for the "fire value". The gemstone 1 held by the holder 20 is illuminated by directed light from the light source 21 through the opening 22 in the direction of the major axis of the gemstone. Light scattered back from the gemstone 1 is received by color on the measurement region 24. The products of the saturation of the light spot and the illumination intensity measured in the measuring field 24 are summed up, from which a measure value for "sparkle" is derived.
Fig. 7a to 7c show, in a schematic side view, another embodiment of a gemstone according to the invention, similar to fig. 1a, but differing from the gemstone in fig. 1a in that in this gemstone a distinct peripheral edge 4a (waistline) is provided, which, in a top view of the gemstone, circularly surrounds the gemstone.
It goes without saying that the invention is not limited to the shown embodiments, in particular the number of facets can be varied, the gemstones shown each having 8+ facets on the table and at the pavilion, but, unlike this, other combinations of facets can be used, for example 6+6, 10+10 or 12+12 facets. An odd number of facets is also possible. The number of facets between the crown on the one hand and the pavilion on the other hand does not have to be uniform.
In the illustrated embodiment, both the crown and pavilion include two different grinding angles (two-tier grinding). In principle, both single-layered and multi-layered gemstones are also possible.
As a preferred material, glass is advantageously used, which preferably has a refractive index between 1.50 and 1.60, and preferably around 1.55. Other materials, particularly natural stone, are also contemplated and feasible.
Claims (20)
1. Gemstone with a rhinestone-like gemstone of a structure in which facets of a crown sloping downwards with respect to the table top are connected to a flat table top of the crown, which facets extend to a waistline, at which the gemstone has a maximum transverse dimension, wherein a pavilion is connected below the waistline, which pavilion is formed by facets converging together, wherein the gemstone is at least for the most part made of glass, characterized in that the magnitude of the crown angle (α) is between 40.5 ° and 42.5 °, and the magnitude of the angle between the waistline (7) and the crown facet (10) bordering the table top (5) with a broadside is between 33.5 ° and 35.5 °.
2. Gemstone according to claim 1, characterized in that the crown angle (α) is between 41.75 ° and 42.25 °.
3. Gemstone according to claim 2, characterized in that the crown angle (α) is 41.95 °.
4. Gemstone according to claim 1, characterized in that the size of the angle between the waistline surface (7) and the crown facet (10) bordering broadside on the table top (5) is between 34.25 ° and 34.75 °.
5. Gemstone according to claim 4, characterized in that the angle between the waist surface (7) and the crown facet (10) bordering broadside on the table top (5) has a magnitude of 34.52 °.
6. The gemstone according to claim 1, wherein the magnitude of the pavilion angle (β) is between 39.5 ° and 41.5 °.
7. The gemstone according to claim 6, wherein said pavilion angle (β) is between 40.5 ° and 41 °.
8. The gemstone according to claim 7, wherein said pavilion angle (β) is 40.73 °.
9. Gemstone according to any of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the size of the angle between the waist circumference (7) and the crown facet (11) bordering the waist circumference (4) with its broadsides is between 40.5 ° and 42.5 °.
10. Gemstone according to claim 9, characterized in that the size of the angle between the waistline (7) and the crown facet (11) bordering broadside on the waistline (4) is between 41.75 ° and 42.25 °.
11. Gemstone according to claim 10, characterized in that the angle between the waistline surface (7) and the crown facet (11) bordering the waistline (4) broadside is 41.95 °.
12. Gemstone according to any of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the extent of the angle between the waistline (7) and the pavilion facets (8) having points arranged towards the waistline (4) is between 35.0 ° and 37.0 °, and/or the extent of the angle between the waistline (7) and the pavilion facets (9) bordering on the waistline (4) with broadsides is between 39.5 ° and 41.5 °.
13. Gemstone according to claim 12, characterized in that the size of the angle between the waistline (7) and the pavilion facet (8) having a pointed end set towards the waistline (4) is between 36.0 ° and 36.5 °.
14. Gemstone according to claim 13, characterized in that the angle between the waistline (7) and the pavilion facet (8) having a pointed end oriented in the direction of the waistline (4) has the magnitude of 36.28 °.
15. Gemstone according to claim 12, characterized in that the size of the angle between the waistline surface (7) and the pavilion facet (9) bordering the waistline (4) broadside is between 40.5 ° and 41.0 °.
16. Gemstone according to claim 15, characterized in that the angle between the girdle (7) and the pavilion facets (9) bordering the girdle (4) broadside is 40.73 °.
17. The gemstone according to any of claims 1 to 8, wherein the transparent material of the gemstone has a refractive index of 1.50 to 1.60.
18. The gemstone according to claim 17, wherein the transparent material of the gemstone has a refractive index of about 1.55.
19. The gemstone according to any of claims 1 to 8, wherein the gemstone is entirely composed of glass.
20. The gemstone according to any of claims 1 to 8, wherein the pavilions are formed by facets that converge sharply together.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| ATA300/2011 | 2011-03-07 | ||
| AT3002011 | 2011-03-07 |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| HK1173051A1 HK1173051A1 (en) | 2013-07-05 |
| HK1173051B true HK1173051B (en) | 2016-03-18 |
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