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HK1170159B - Cosmetic compositions comprising fibrous pigments - Google Patents

Cosmetic compositions comprising fibrous pigments Download PDF

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Publication number
HK1170159B
HK1170159B HK12110880.8A HK12110880A HK1170159B HK 1170159 B HK1170159 B HK 1170159B HK 12110880 A HK12110880 A HK 12110880A HK 1170159 B HK1170159 B HK 1170159B
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HK
Hong Kong
Prior art keywords
composition
skin
fibrous
pigments
tio
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HK12110880.8A
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Chinese (zh)
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HK1170159A1 (en
Inventor
A‧班瑟尔
小‧J‧R‧格莱恩
P‧美特拉
Original Assignee
雅芳产品公司
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Priority claimed from US12/645,067 external-priority patent/US9364689B2/en
Application filed by 雅芳产品公司 filed Critical 雅芳产品公司
Publication of HK1170159A1 publication Critical patent/HK1170159A1/en
Publication of HK1170159B publication Critical patent/HK1170159B/en

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Description

Cosmetic composition comprising fibrous pigment
Technical Field
The present invention relates to a method of imparting a cosmetic film on the skin that approximates the reflectance and color space profile of natural skin, said method comprising topically applying a composition comprising a fibrous pigment and a colorant.
Background
Pigments are often used in cosmetic compositions to hide imperfections in the skin, particularly skin discoloration. For hyperpigmentation, redness and shading, pigments are commonly used that can cover or lighten the appearance of the skin. However, the use of pigments in cosmetic compositions can create other aesthetic defects. Each person's skin has certain angular reflectivity and color space characteristics. These properties can vary significantly in skin coated with pigmented films or lightening compositions and the result will appear unnatural. For example, pigments that provide a lighter skin appearance can also produce a gray appearance on darker skin tones, which is associated with increased angular dependence. The skin naturally has a nearly lambertian, or flat, reflection spectrum at an angle of incidence <60 °.
Compositions that mask defects by reflecting light off of the defect are known in the art. For example, U.S. patent No. 6,511,672 describes a composition containing metal oxide treated alumina platelets and a spherical scattering component composed of silica coated with titanium dioxide, where both components are described to have strong reflective properties, making these pigments unsuitable for daytime use when used alone, as the strong reflection appears to enhance wrinkles and lines. Alternatively, pigment particles coated with a network of smaller particles having a higher refractive index may achieve transparency that makes the skin look natural but hide imperfections, as in U.S. patent No. 7,531,184. These compositions typically employ titanium dioxide, which can produce an excessively pearlescent or excessively chalky skin appearance.
Titanium dioxide is often mentioned in the art as causing cosmetic compositions to appear too white, powdery or chalky on the skin. Fine particles of titanium dioxide are difficult to disperse in cosmetic compositions and often form large aggregates. However, larger sized titanium dioxide particles will often become apparent in cosmetic compositions. European patent No. 0801941 describes certain sunscreen compositions in which spindle-shaped titanium dioxide is used instead of spherical titanium dioxide to enhance dispersion of the compound in the composition. It is described in this patent that if the length or diameter of the spindle-shaped titanium becomes too long, transparency in visible light is lost, the finish of the sunscreen is reduced and the appearance of the skin becomes too white. The titanium dioxide particles in the form of a spindle or needle are also used in cosmetic compositions of Japanese patent laid-open No. 11-035441, Japanese patent laid-open No. 288084, Japanese patent laid-open No. 10-291922, Japanese patent laid-open No. 08-048614 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,763,497.
There is a need for alternative methods of lightening the appearance of skin, or masking imperfections while maintaining a natural appearance of skin, which overcome the problems associated with previous methods and compositions, and which would represent a significant advance in the cosmetic arts.
The present invention provides a method of imparting a pigmented film characterized by the appearance of skin that approximates natural skin by topically applying a cosmetic composition comprising certain fibrous pigments and colorants.
The present invention also provides methods for imparting a lightened appearance to skin by topically applying a cosmetic composition comprising certain fibrous pigments. None of the prior art provides the advantages and benefits of the present invention.
It is an object of the present invention to provide a composition comprising fibrous pigments which improves the appearance of skin while keeping the reflection profile of skin coated with said composition similar to that of natural skin.
It is another object of the present invention to provide a composition comprising fibrous pigments which improves the appearance of skin while maintaining the color space value of skin coated with said composition similar to that of natural skin.
Summary of The Invention
In accordance with the foregoing and other objects, the present invention provides a method of imparting a colored film approximating the reflectance and color space profile of natural skin, comprising topically applying a composition comprising a fibrous pigment and a colorant.
In another aspect, the present invention provides a method for imparting a soft-focus effect, a lightened appearance, or a whitening effect to skin, said method comprising topically applying a composition comprising a fibrous pigment.
A method of imparting a pigmented film on skin is provided, the method comprising topically applying to the skin a composition comprising from 0.1 to 30% (by weight) of a fibrous pigment having an average diameter greater than 0.2 microns, having an average aspect ratio greater than 5, and from 0.1 to 30% of a colorant selected from the group consisting of pigments, lakes, and dyes. In one embodiment, the pigmented film on the skin is characterized by a more natural appearance of the skin than a film provided by an otherwise identical composition in which the fibrous pigments have an average aspect ratio of less than 5. In one embodiment, the composition provides a soft focus effect.
A method for imparting a lightened appearance to skin is provided, said method comprising topically applying a composition comprising from 0.1 to 30% (by weight) of a fibrous pigment having an average diameter greater than 0.2 microns and having an average aspect ratio greater than 5.
In one embodiment, the cosmetic film or pigmented film on the skin is characterized by a substantially lambertian reflection.
In one aspect, the fibrous pigment comprises a metal oxide, such as TiO2Halloysite, ZnO or iron oxides. In certain embodiments, the fibrous pigment has an average diameter of 0.25 to 1.5 microns and an average aspect ratio of greater than 10. The fibrous pigment may be in the form of: solid fibers, hollow fibers (e.g., halloysite fibers), fibers having surface roughness, or fibers composed of a polymeric material and coated with a metal oxide.
In one embodiment, the composition further comprises one or more depigmenting agents, or can be used in combination with one or more depigmenting agents, or a composition comprising one or more depigmenting agents.
In one embodiment, the composition is characterized by a diffuse transmittance of at least 35 and a reflectance value of less than 30 on a 0.3mils thick film. The composition may comprise soft focus materials, such as cellulose beads. In certain embodiments, the ratio of the weight of the soft focus material to the weight of the fibrous pigment ranges from 3:1 to 1: 3. In one embodiment, the soft-focus material and fibrous pigment each comprise from 1 to 20% (by weight) of the composition.
In certain embodiments, the composition is free of iron-containing pigments, colored pigments, or sunscreens.
In one aspect, the method of imparting a colored film on skin comprises topically applying a composition described herein to provide a colored film on the skin, wherein the colored film on skin is characterized by a skin appearance measured in terms of L, a, and b color space values that is closer to natural skin than is the same composition in which the fibrous pigment has an average aspect ratio of less than 5.
In another aspect, a method of imparting a lightened appearance to skin comprising topically applying a composition described herein provides a cosmetic film on said skin, wherein said cosmetic film on the skin is characterized by a skin appearance measured in terms of L, a, and b color space values that is closer to natural skin than is the same composition in which the fibrous pigments have an average aspect ratio of less than 5.
In certain embodiments, the sum of the differences in L, a, and b color space values for a composition comprising fibrous pigments having an average aspect ratio greater than 5 as compared to natural skin is less than the sum of the differences in L, a, and b color space values for a composition comprising fibrous pigments having an average aspect ratio less than 5 as compared to natural skin.
These novel features of the present invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art from the following detailed description, which is merely intended by way of illustration of various modes for carrying out the invention. As will be realized, the invention is capable of other and different obvious aspects, all without departing from the invention. The description is thus to be regarded as illustrative instead of limiting.
Drawings
FIG. 1 shows, by weight, the reaction with 5% of spherical fine TiO2In contrast, 5% (by weight) TiO2The CIELAB L, a, and b values of the Velvasil matrix 7-4 coating samples (drawdown) of the fibers were varied.
Figures 2a and 2b show CIELAB L, a and b values of natural skin before the application of whitening cream. FIG. 2b shows the application of a whitening cream (containing 5% by weight TiO) to the skin2Fibres (black arrows) or 5% (by weight) of spherical TiO2(grey arrows)), the values of CIELAB L, a and b change.
FIGS. 3a and 3b show that the surface application contains 5% (by weight) of fibrous TiO2Or 5% by weight of spherical TiO2Before (fig. 3a) and after (fig. 3b) the recorded values of native skin L at-20 ° to 130 ° reflection angle.
Fig. 4a shows regions of CIE a and b values, which characterize natural skin tone. FIG. 4b shows the application of a composition comprising a silicone matrix and TiO of various sizes ranging from 5% by weight from 10nm to 300nm2After the composition of the fibers, the CIE a and b values obtained.
FIG. 5 shows the application of a coating comprising 5% (by weight) of fibrous TiO on the surface2Or 5% by weight of spherical TiO2Before and after high coverage of the make-up composition, the values of native skin L recorded at-20 ° to 130 ° reflection angles.
Detailed Description
"fiber" refers to a class of materials that are continuous filaments or discrete elongated pieces resembling a length of wire. The fibers may be solid, hollow, corrugated, covered with surface roughness or coated.
The term "pigment" refers to a material that changes the color of light that is reflected or transmitted. The pigments may be inorganic or organic. The pigments of the present invention may be in the form of fibers or coated polymeric fibers.
The expression "cosmetically acceptable vehicle" means a medium compatible with keratin materials (for example human skin).
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" refers to a compound comprising at least two repeating units, for example a compound comprising at least three repeating units, which may be identical.
As used herein, the term "dispersion" refers to any process that results in a uniform distribution of ingredients in an emulsified matrix, and includes dissolution, emulsification, and formation of a colloidal suspension or gel.
As used herein, the term "effective amount" refers to an amount sufficient to produce a skin appearance of lightening, whitening or soft-focus.
As used herein and in the appended claims, the terms "a" and "an" mean "one or more" unless otherwise indicated.
It should be noted that, unless indicated to the contrary, as used herein, percentages (%) are% (by weight) based on the total weight of the composition.
Fibrous pigments
The fibrous pigments used in the present invention may be composed of organic substances, inorganic substances or mixtures thereof. The fibrous pigment may take the form of coated polymeric fibers.
As used herein, "metal oxide" refers to a compound comprising at least one oxygen atom and at least one metal atom. The inorganic fibrous pigments or inorganic fibers useful in the present invention include metal oxides, including but not limited to titanium dioxide (titania), such as titanium dioxide (TiO)2) Iron oxides, e.g. FeO and Fe2O3Alumina or aluminium oxides, e.g. Al2O3Zinc oxide (ZnO), and silicon dioxide (SiO)2). The fibrous pigments may be used alone or in combination with other fibrous pigments, such as mixtures of metal oxides. In one embodiment, the inorganic fibrous pigment may comprise one or more inorganic fibrous pigments. In certain embodiments, the fibrous pigment comprises a metal oxide composed of at least one oxygen atom and at least one transition metal atom, such as titanium, vanadium, chromium, manganese, iron, cobalt, nickel, copper, and zinc. In another embodiment, the fibrous pigment comprises a metal oxide consisting of at least one oxygen atom and at least one aluminum atom. In one embodiment, the fibrous pigmentIs TiO2. In another embodiment, the fibrous pigment is SiO2. In certain embodiments, the fibrous pigment comprises TiO2And Al2O3;TiO2And SiO2Or TiO2And Fe2O3
In one embodiment, the fibrous pigment is an artificial or synthetic substance. In another embodiment, the fibrous pigment is a naturally occurring material.
Fibrous pigments, on the other hand, comprise clay mineral compounds or aluminum silicates, including but not limited to halloysite (Al)2Si2O5(OH)4Kaolin clay and illite- (K, H)3O)(Al,Mg,Fe)2(Si,Al)4O10[(OH)2,(H2O)]Montmorillonite- (Na, Ca)0.33(Al,Mg)2(Si4O10)(OH)2·nH2O, vermiculite- (MgFe, Al)3(Al,Si)4O10(OH)2·4H2O, talc-Mg3Si4O10(OH)2Palygorskite- (Mg, Al)2Si4O10(OH)·4(H2O), and pyrophyllite-Al2Si4O10(OH)2Silicate, or other tubules derived from minerals. In another preferred embodiment, the fibrous pigment is halloysite. In certain embodiments, the clay mineral compound is a metal oxide, as defined herein.
In one aspect, the fibrous pigment comprises an organic substance, such as carbon fibers or carbon nanotubes.
The fibers or fibrous pigments may be solid or hollow and may be further covered by corrugations or surface roughness. In one embodiment, the fibers are solid. In another embodiment, the fibers are hollow. In one embodiment, the fibers are solid or hollow and are covered with corrugations or surface roughness.
In certain embodiments, the fibers are solid, needle-shaped, spindle-shaped, rugby-shaped, football-shaped, or rod-shaped. In certain embodiments, the fibrous pigment is cylindrical. In a specific embodiment, the fibrous pigment is solid TiO2E.g. solid TiO prepared by electrospinning2Nanofibers (see, e.g., j.y.park and s.s.kim, Metals and Materials International, Vol 15(1), pp.95-99 (2009)).
In other embodiments, the fibrous pigment is hollow or tubular. In a preferred embodiment, the fibrous pigment is halloysite, which is hollow or tubular. In sub-embodiments, the hollow fibers may be filled with one or more substances that may provide additional benefits to the skin, such as moisturizing compounds (e.g., glycerin).
The fibrous pigment may be deposited as a coating on any polymeric material. The polymeric material may take the form of solid or hollow fibers, coated with fibrous pigments, inorganic fibers, metal oxides, or clay mineral compounds, and may be described as core-sheath fibers. The fibrous pigments, inorganic fibers, metal oxides or clay mineral compounds can be deposited on the polymeric material or polymeric fibers by known methods described in the literature (see, for example, Drew et al, "Metal oxide coated Polymer fibers", Nano Letters 2003, Vol.3, No.2, pp, 143-. Such core-sheath fibers may be advantageous for reducing material costs without compromising the desired properties imparted by the fibrous pigment or inorganic compound.
The polymeric material is not limited to any particular type of polymer. In certain embodiments, the polymeric material comprises polyamides, such as nylon, polyacrylic acid (PAA), crosslinked polyethylene (PEX or XLPE), Polyethylene (PE), polyethylene terephthalate (PET or PETE), polyphenylene ether (PPE), polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polyvinylidene chloride (PVDC), polylactic acid (PLA), polypropylene (PP), Polybutylene (PB), polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), Polyamide (PA), Polyimide (PI), Polycarbonate (PC), Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), Polystyrene (PS), Polyurethane (PU), Polyester (PEs), Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS), polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), Polyoxymethylene (POM), Polysulfone (PEs), styrene-acrylonitrile (SAN), Ethylene Vinyl Acetate (EVA), Styrene Maleic Anhydride (SMA), and polyacrylonitrile; or polyvinyl alcohol (PVA). In a preferred embodiment, the polymeric material is selected from the group consisting of nylon, polyacrylonitrile, PVA and PMMA.
In one embodiment, the polymeric material is coated with a metal oxide. In a specific sub-embodiment, the metal oxide is TiO2. In another embodiment, the polymeric material is coated with a clay mineral compound. In a specific sub-embodiment, the clay mineral compound is halloysite.
The polymeric fibers have an average diameter of 0.05 microns or more and an average aspect ratio of 5 or more. In certain embodiments, the polymeric fibers have an average diameter of 0.05 to 20 microns and an average aspect ratio of 5 or more. The coating on the polymeric fibers may be a continuous layer having an average thickness of about 0.01 to 20 microns. The coating may be discontinuous or composed of different particles having a size of 0.005 to 20 microns. The coating may also consist of fibers, platelets or spherical particles.
On the other hand, the fibrous pigments can impart a desired color to the skin, or a lightening or whitening appearance. In a sub-embodiment, the fibrous pigment is TiO2Halloysite or iron oxide. In preferred embodiments, the fibrous pigment imparts a lightening or whitening appearance to the skin, such as in creams, lotions, foundations, eye creams or other compositions for topical application to the facial skin. In a preferred embodiment, the fibrous pigment is used as a coating on a polymeric material to impart a desired color to the skin, such as is used in a make-up or eyeshadow.
For use in the compositions described hereinThe average diameter and average aspect ratio of the fibrous pigment of (a) influence the color of the composition. Fibrous pigments having color space values similar to those of natural skin are preferred for use in the compositions of the present invention. Certain fibrous pigments (e.g., fibrous pigments having an average diameter of less than about 0.2 micron, having an average aspect ratio of less than 5, such as spherical pigments) are not useful in the methods described herein. For example, TiO less than about 0.2 microns in diameter when applied to the skin in a composition2Giving a blue or bluish appearance. In a particular aspect, the fibrous pigment has an average diameter greater than 0.2 microns. In certain embodiments, the fibrous pigment has an average diameter of greater than about 0.21, 0.22, 0.23, 0.24, 0.25, 0.26, 0.27, 0.28, 0.29, 0.30, 0.31, 0.32, 0.33, 0.34, 0.35, 0.36, 0.37, 0.38, 0.39, 0.40, 0.50, or 0.60 microns. In a preferred embodiment, the fibrous pigment has an average diameter greater than 0.26 microns.
In certain embodiments, the fibrous pigment has an average diameter of about 0.2 to 1.5, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 0.8, 0.2 to 0.7, 0.2 to 0.6, 0.2 to 0.5, 0.2 to 0.4, 0.2 to 0.3, 0.21 to 0.50, 0.25 to 0.50, 0.26 to 0.50, 0.27 to 0.50, 0.28 to 0.50, 0.21 to 0.40, 0.25 to 0.40, 0.26 to 0.40, 0.27 to 0.40, 0.28 to 0.40, 0.21 to 0.35, 0.26 to 0.35, 0.27 to 0.35, 0.21 to 0.32, 0.26 to 0.31, or 0.27 to 0.31 micrometers. In a specific embodiment, the fibrous pigment has a diameter of about 0.21 to 0.50 microns.
The length of the fibrous pigment is larger than the diameter of the fiber, but is not otherwise particularly limited. In certain embodiments, the fibrous pigment has an average length of greater than about 0.25, 0.30, 0.35, 0.40, 0.50, 0.75, 1, 2, 3,4, 5, or 10 microns. In a preferred embodiment, the fibrous pigment has an average length of greater than 1 micron.
In other embodiments, the average length of the fibers may be about 0.25 to 100, 0.30 to 100, 1 to 100, 5 to 100, 0.25 to 50, 0.30 to 50, 1 to 50, 5 to 50, 0.25 to 30, 0.30 to 30, 1 to 30, 5 to 30, 0.25 to 20, 0.30 to 20, 1 to 20, 5 to 20, 0.25 to 10, 0.30 to 10, 1 to 10, or 5 to 10 microns. In a preferred embodiment, the fibrous pigment has an average length of about 1 to 20 microns.
The average aspect ratio of a fibrous pigment is the ratio of its longer dimension to its shorter dimension, or the value obtained when the length is divided by the diameter. Preferred fibrous pigments of the present invention have a high aspect ratio or an aspect ratio that will improve the optical properties of the skin. In certain embodiments, the fibrous pigment has an average aspect ratio greater than 1, 2, 3,4, 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, or 100. In one embodiment, the fibrous pigment or fiber has an average aspect ratio greater than 5. In another embodiment, the fibrous pigment has an average aspect ratio greater than 10.
In other embodiments, the fibrous pigment has an average aspect ratio of about 1 to 1000, 2 to 100, 3 to 100, 4 to 100, 5 to 100, 10 to 100, 20 to 100, 30 to 100, 40 to 100, 50 to 100, 1 to 20, 2 to 20, 3 to 20, 4 to 20, 5 to 30, 5 to 50, 10 to 20, 10 to 30, or 10 to 50. In one embodiment, the fibrous pigment has an average aspect ratio of about 1 to 100, more preferably 5 to 100. The fibers are not spherical.
In another aspect, the fibrous pigment has an average refractive index of about 1.01 to 4.0, 2.0 to 4.0, 1.1 to 3.5, 1.7 to 3.5, 2.0 to 3.5, 1.5 to 3.2, 1.7 to 3.2, 2.0 to 3.2, or 2.0 to 3.0. In a preferred embodiment, the fibrous pigment has an average refractive index of about 2.0 to 3.0.
Composition comprising a metal oxide and a metal oxide
Compositions comprising the fibrous pigments described herein can be used to impart a soft-focus effect, a lightened appearance, or a whitening effect to skin. In certain embodiments, the composition further comprises a colorant selected from the group consisting of pigments, lakes, and dyes. Particularly preferred compositions are those which can be applied to the face, neck, chest, arms or hands. The type of composition is not particularly limited and any formulation or any cosmetic formulation suitable for application to human skin may be used. In certain embodiments, the composition may be a powder, cream, lotion, gel, lotion, moisturizer, foundation, concealer or other cosmetic composition or vehicle. In certain embodiments, the composition is applied to all or part of the face, such as around the eyes, under the eyes, or the face affected by blemishes, hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone, or other discoloration. In certain embodiments, the composition is applied to the hands. In particular embodiments, the composition is applied to skin patches affected by hyperpigmentation or other discoloration. In certain embodiments, the composition is not a powder.
The composition may comprise, relative to the total weight of the composition, about 0.1% to 50%, 0.5% to 40%, 0.1% to 30%, 1% to 30%, 2% to 30%, 1% to 20%, 2% to 15%, 2% to 10%, 2% to 5%, 5% to 20%, 5% to 15% of one or more types of fibrous pigments. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises from about 2% to 20% (by weight) of fibrous pigment.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition is for whitening or lightening the appearance of skin and comprises 2-6% (by weight) of fibrous pigment. In another preferred embodiment, the composition is a base and comprises 5-20% by weight of fibrous pigment.
In one aspect, the composition comprises one or more soft focus materials. In one embodiment, the soft focus material is cellulose beads. The composition may include spherical scattering components, including spherical powders to achieve a soft-focus look, such as calcium aluminum borosilicate, PMMA, polyethylene, polystyrene, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, nylon-12, ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer, boron nitride, teflon, silica, and the like.
The composition may comprise about 0.1% to 50%, 0.5% to 40%, 0.1% to 30%, 1% to 30%, 2% to 30%, 1% to 20%, 2% to 15%, 2% to 10%, 2% to 5%, 5% to 20%, 5% to 15% soft focus material relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises from about 2% to about 20% (by weight) soft focus material.
In certain embodiments, the ratio of the weight of soft focus material to the weight of fibrous pigment is about 50:1 to 1:50, 20:1 to 1:20, 10:1 to 1:10, 5:1 to 1:5, 3:1 to 1:3, 2:1 to 1:2, or 1: 1. In a preferred embodiment, the ratio of the weight of soft focus material to the weight of fibrous pigment is from about 3:1 to 1: 3. In another preferred embodiment, the ratio of the weight of soft focus material to the weight of fibrous pigment is about 1: 1.
In other embodiments, the combined% (by weight) of inorganic fibers and soft-focus material in the composition is about 0.1% to 50%, 0.5% to 40%, 0.1% to 30%, 1% to 30%, 2% to 30%, 1% to 20%, 2% to 15%, 2% to 10%, 2% to 5%, 5% to 20%, 5% to 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a coloured cosmetic product for the skin, such as a make-up or concealer product, a face powder, a serum, a top or bottom makeup coat, or a make-up for the body, a make-up for the lips, such as a lipstick, or a pencil, all of which may optionally have care or therapeutic properties. In a preferred embodiment, the composition is a foundation.
In particular embodiments, the composition is a colored cosmetic composition, such as a foundation. In one embodiment, the colored cosmetic composition provides a high level of coverage while maintaining angular reflectance properties and color space values close to those of natural skin.
The coloured cosmetic will generally comprise one or more colouring agents selected from pigments, lakes and dyes. Other colorants, if present, will typically comprise from about 0.1% to about 30% by weight of the composition, more typically from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the colorant is iron oxide.
Exemplary inorganic pigments include, but are not limited to, metal oxides and metal hydroxides, such as magnesium oxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium oxideCalcium hydroxide, aluminum oxide, aluminum hydroxide, iron oxide (. alpha. -Fe)2O3,γ-Fe2O3,Fe3O4FeO), red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, iron hydroxide, titanium dioxide, titanium suboxide, zirconium oxide, chromium hydroxide, manganese oxide, cobalt oxide, cerium oxide, nickel oxide and zinc oxide, as well as composite oxides and composite hydroxides, such as iron titanate, cobalt titanate and cobalt aluminate. Non-metal oxides such as alumina and silica, ultramarine blue (i.e., sodium aluminum silicate containing sulfur), prussian blue, manganese violet, bismuth oxychloride, talc, mica, sericite, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, manganese silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, silica, titanated mica, iron oxide titanated mica, bismuth oxychloride, and the like are also contemplated as suitable inorganic pigments. The organic pigment may include, but is not limited to, at least one of the following: carbon black, magenta, phthalocyanine blue and green pigments, aniline yellow and orange pigments, and azo-type red and yellow pigments, such as toluidine red, stone red (litho red), naphthol red and brown pigments, and combinations thereof.
Lakes generally refer to a colorant (e.g., D & C or FD & C) prepared from a water-soluble organic dye that is precipitated onto an insoluble reactive or adsorptive base or diluent. The term "D & C" refers to pharmaceutical and cosmetic colorants approved by the FDA for use in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. The term "FD & C" refers to food, drug and cosmetic colorants approved by the FDA for use in food, drug and cosmetic. Certified D & C and FD & C colorants are listed in 21c.f.r. § 74.101 et seq, and include the FD & C colors blue 1, blue 2, green 3, orange B, orange 2, red 3, red 4, red 40, yellow 5, yellow 6, blue 1, blue 2, orange B, orange 2, and the D & C colors blue 4, blue 9, green 5, green 6, green 8, orange 4, orange 5, orange 10, orange 11, red 6, red 7, red 17, red 21, red 22, red 27, red 28, red 30, red 31, red 33, red 34, red 36, red 39, violet 2, yellow 7, yellow 8, yellow 10, yellow 11, blue 4, blue 6, green 5, green 6, green 8, orange 4, orange 5, orange 10, orange 11, and the like. Suitable materials for forming lakes include, without limitation, mica, bismuth oxychloride, sericite, alumina, aluminum, copper, bronze, silver, calcium, zirconium, barium and strontium, titanated mica, fumed silica, spherical silica, Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA), micronized teflon, boron nitride, acrylate copolymers, aluminum silicate, starch aluminum octenyl succinate, bentonite, calcium silicate, cellulose, chalk, corn starch, diatomaceous earth, fuller's earth, glyceryl starch, lithium magnesium silicate, hydrated silica, kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicate, magnesium trisilicate, maltodextrin, montmorillonite, microcrystalline cellulose, rice starch, silica, talc, mica, titanium dioxide, zinc laurate, zinc myristate, zinc rosinate, alumina, attapulgite, calcium carbonate, calcium silicate, dextran, nylon, silylated silica, silk fibroin powder, sericite, soybean powder, tin oxide, titanium hydroxide, magnesium phosphate, walnut shell powder, and a mixture thereof. Suitable lakes include, without limitation, those of red dyes from the monoazo, disazo, fluorine, xanthene or indigo families, such as red 4, 6, 7, 17, 21, 22, 27, 28, 30, 31, 33, 34, 36 and red 40, lakes of yellow pyrazole, monoazo, fluorine, xanthene, quinoline dyes or salts thereof, such as yellow 5, 6, 7, 8, 10 and 11, lakes of violet dyes, including those from the anthraquinone family, such as violet 2. And lakes of orange dye, including orange 4, 5, 10, 11, and the like. Suitable lakes of D & C and FD & C dyes are defined in 21c.f.r. § 82.51.
The colorant may optionally be surface treated, for example, to make the particles more hydrophobic or more dispersible in the vehicle. The surface of the particle may be covalently or ionically bound, for example, to an organic or silicone-based molecule, or may be adsorbed thereto, or the particle may be physically coated by a layer of material. The surface treatment compound can be attached to the particles by any suitable coupling agent, linker group, or functional group (e.g., silane, ester, ether, etc.). The compound may comprise a hydrophobic moiety which may be selected from, for example, alkyl, aryl, allyl, vinyl, alkyl-aryl, aryl-alkyl, silicone, disiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, polymethylsiloxane, polyurethane, silicone-polyurethane and fluoro or perfluoro derivatives thereof. Other hydrophobic modifiers include, for example, lauroyl lysine, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (ITT), ITT and dimethicone (ITT/dimethicone) crosspolymer, ITT and amino acid, ITT/triethoxy octanoyl silane crosspolymer, waxes (e.g., carnauba), fatty acids (e.g., stearic acid), HDI/trimethylol caprolactone crosspolymer, PEG-8 methyl ether triethoxysilane, aloe, jojoba ester, lecithin, perfluorophosphate, and Magnesium Myristate (MM).
In some embodiments, the optional pigment component includes an alkylsilane surface treated colorant consisting essentially of or comprising the following: an alumina matrix (e.g., platelet-shaped) and a pigment, dye or lake associated with the alumina matrix by an alkylsilane surface treatment. Typically, the alkylsilane will be octylsilane and may be formed by treatment with triethoxyoctylsilane. Non-limiting examples of such colorants include, but are not limited to, alumina/titanium dioxide/triethoxyoctylsilane 1% (COVALUMINE)TMAtlas White AS), alumina/D&C Red aluminum lake CTD/triethoxyoctylsilane 1% (covalmine)TMRed Rose AS), alumina/D&C Red aluminum lake CTD/triethoxyoctylsilane 1% (covalmine)TMSonoma Red AS), aluminum oxide/black iron oxide CTD/triethoxyoctylsilane 1% (COVALUMINE)TMSonoma BlackAS), alumina/D&C Red #6 aluminum lake CTD/triethoxyoctylsilane 1% (covalvine)TMFire Red AS), alumina/yellow iron oxide CTD/triethoxyoctylsilane 1% (COVALUMINE)TMSonoma Yellow AS), alumina/D&C blue #1 aluminum lake CTD/triethoxyoctylsilane 1% (covalvine)TMAstral Blue AS), alumina/magenta CTD/triethoxyoctylsilane 1% (covalmine)TMCampari AS), alumina/yellow #5 CTD/triethoxyoctylsilane 1% (COVALUMINE)TMSunburst AS), alumina/triethoxyoctylsilane 1%, and combinations thereof, each of which is available from SENSIENTTMObtained from cosmetic technologies LCW.
Interference or pearlescent pigments may also be included. These are generally composed of TiO with a lamellar structure of about 50 to 300nm2,Fe2O3Or Cr2O3Etc. of the mica of the membrane. These include white pearlescent materials such as mica coated with titanium oxide or bismuth oxychloride, and colored pearlescent materials such as mica titanium containing iron oxide, mica titanium containing ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica titanium containing organic pigments of the foregoing types. However, these other materials sometimes add a white, chalky, gray appearance to the skin when the final composition is applied to the skin, and therefore, it is preferred that these materials not be used in the present invention or their content should be limited. If they are used, it is preferred to use these materials in an amount of less than 1.0wt% in total. Preferably, the pearlescent component has a bismuth oxychloride based pearlescent constituent or a reflective pearlescent. Bismuth oxychloride is more compatible with the natural pearlescence of the skin than compounds such as titanium oxide, which provide a more artificial look. Bismuth oxychloride better mimics the natural reflex of the skin. However, other pearlescent ingredients may be used. The preferred pearlescent ingredient is known as CHROMA-LITE, which is a combination of colored pigments utilizing calcium stearate in combination with BI-LITE 20 (bismuth oxychloride and mica). The CHROMA-LITE component is available in various shades/colors from Englehard Corporation (Iselin, N.J.).
The composition of the invention should be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, i.e., it should contain a non-toxic physiologically acceptable medium and should be capable of being applied to the skin, superficial body growths or the lips of a human being. For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "cosmetically acceptable" means a composition having a pleasant appearance, smell, feel and taste.
In one embodiment, the composition is a facial or eye cream for whitening, lightening or lightening the appearance of skin.
In particular embodiments, the composition is not a detergent. In other embodiments, the composition does not absorb sebum. In certain embodiments, the composition is not an exfoliating agent (e.g., a keratin-removing exfoliating agent) or a mask or pack (pack), such as a peel-off mask.
In one embodiment, the composition comprises one or more pigments selected to achieve a range of colors or shades. In certain embodiments, the compositions can be formulated to achieve a wide range of colors or shades. In particular embodiments, the range of colors or shades is improved or broadened relative to the prior art.
The composition may be formulated as a make-up or concealer, such as a liquid, gel, cream, lotion, moisturizer, cake, stick, dish, powder, and is not limited to any particular type of make-up or concealer. Any physiologically acceptable medium may form the matrix of the composition. The term "physiologically acceptable matrix" refers to a medium compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and/or their integuments. In one aspect of the invention, the composition comprises other colorants or pigments. In certain embodiments, the composition is a make-up, a moisturizing agent, or a concealer. In other embodiments, the composition is a cream or powder eye shadow composition. In certain embodiments, the composition is not an eye shadow composition. In certain embodiments, the composition does not comprise other colorants or pigments. In one embodiment, the composition does not comprise an iron-containing pigment, such as iron oxide.
In one embodiment, the composition comprises one or more sunscreens. In certain embodiments, the fibrous pigment is a UV blocker. In certain embodiments, the composition does not contain a sunscreen, a sunscreen agent, or a UV blocker. In one embodiment, the fibrous pigment or coating on the polymeric fibers does not comprise a sunscreen, a sunscreen agent or a UV blocker.
All of the ingredients useful in this application can be classified or described by their presumed mode of action. However, it will be appreciated that the ingredients may in some cases provide more than one cosmetic and/or therapeutic benefit, or operate through more than one mode of action. Thus, classifications herein are made for the sake of convenience and are not intended to limit the ingredient to the particular described application listed.
The compositions of the present invention may also include other cosmetic ingredients such as, but not limited to, humectants, lubricants, humectants, anti-wrinkle ingredients, concealers, mattifying agents, pigments, colorants, proteins, antioxidants, cosmetic agents, chelating agents, emulsifiers, Ultraviolet (UV) absorbers, oil absorbers, antifoaming agents, anti-tack agents, thickeners, fragrances, preservatives, antimicrobial agents, fungistatic agents, neutralizing agents, vitamins, plasticizers, coagulants, alkalizing and acidifying agents, fillers, solvents, and mixtures thereof. Those skilled in the art will appreciate that any other cosmetically acceptable Ingredient may be used, i.e., those included in CFTA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, third edition.
The compositions may contain other ingredients such as alkalizing agents, emulsifiers, lubricants, plasticizers, preservatives, humectants, wetting agents, solvents and tonicity agents or active ingredients suitable for providing anti-aging benefits. Examples of preferred other ingredients include glycerin. Viscosifiers, such as gelling agents, may also be used. Examples include bentonite, triglycerides, aluminum stearate, ethylene glycol C18-C36, glyceryl tribehenate, glyceryl monostearate, alginates, carbomers, cellulose, gums, carageenan, starch or silicates. Fillers may also optionally be added in amounts of about 1% to about 20%, preferably about 1% to about 10%. Examples of fillers include silica, PMMA, nylon, alumina, barium sulfate, or any other filler typically used in such compositions.
The composition may also contain at least one cosmetic active ingredient and/or at least one dermatologically active ingredient, i.e. an agent having a beneficial effect on the skin. The loading of such active ingredients may be accomplished in any manner known to those skilled in the art. The composition may also contain other whitening or lightening agents that hide the discoloration with pigments or other light reflecting materials, or treat the cause of the discoloration.
In particular embodiments, the composition may comprise one or more depigmenting agents, or may be used in combination with or in alternation with one or more depigmenting agents. A depigmenting agent is any active agent having skin depigmenting activity. This activity makes it possible to reduce the existing pigmentation in the skin and also to prevent any additional pigmentation beyond the natural pigmentation. Depigmenting agents include, but are not limited to, lysine enzyme inhibitors, thiodipropionic acid (TDPA) and its derivatives, bearberry extract, phytol, mangosteen, hydroquinone and its derivatives, azelaic acid and its derivatives, kojic acid (5-hydroxy-4-pyran-4-one-2-methyl) and its derivatives, p-cresol (4-hydroxyanisole), tretinoin, niacinamide, serine protease inhibitors, soybean or soybean extracts, alpha hydroxy acids, glycolic acid, trichloroacetic acid, salicylic acid, arbutin (hydroquinone-beta-D-glucopyranoside), broussin, glabridin (licorice extract), arylstaphylos patula, arylstaphylovisciida, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, 4-isopropylcatechol, aloin, phenolic thioethers, such as N-acetyl-4-S-cysteine aminophenol or N-propionyl-4-S-cysteine-phenol, n-acetylglucosamine, tranexamic acid (trans-4-aminomethylcyclohexanecarboxylic acid), linoleic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, ellagic acid, ascorbic acid, zinc peroxide and other depigmenting or skin lightening agents known in the art. The composition may comprise from 0.0001% to 20% by weight of depigmenting agent, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.025% to 5% by weight of depigmenting agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.
It is also possible to use controlled release type active ingredient delivery systems. In this respect, it is also possible to achieve a release of the active ingredient in a short period of time, which is desirable in some fields of application. In particular, the hollow inorganic fibers may hold or encapsulate the active ingredient to be released. Such ingredients may include active agents, such as vitamins, skin care agents, anti-inflammatory agents, such as sterol or non-sterol anti-inflammatory agents, or other agents known in the art of cosmetic preparation.
The skilled person will take care to select the optional additives and/or their amounts so as not to adversely affect or substantially adversely affect the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention by the envisaged addition. It is also understood that the other cosmetic ingredients and adjuvants incorporated in the composition must be of a type and in amounts not detrimental to the advantageous effects sought according to the invention.
The composition may comprise a film-forming agent or film-forming agent. Film forming agents include PVP, acrylic acid, acrylamide, copolymers, organosiloxanes, including polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS or Dimethicone), silicone polyurethanes, polyorganosiloxane polyurethane polymers, or other film forming agents known in the art. The film former improves the ability of the composition to leave a smooth, adherent and continuous coating on the skin. The film may have water-binding properties and leave a soft feel on the skin.
The composition may comprise from about 1% to 90%, 2% to 80%, 5% to 85%, 10% to 80%, 20% to 70%, 30% to 60%, 40% to 60% water by weight of the total composition. Typically, the amount of water present in the compositions of the present invention is at least about 20%.
Application method
Compositions comprising the fibrous pigments described above are designed to impart a colored film to skin characterized by the appearance of skin that is more natural than films provided by an otherwise identical composition in which the fibrous pigments have an average aspect ratio of less than 5. In certain embodiments, the compositions provide a pigmented or cosmetic film on skin that has an angular reflectance profile or color space value that approximates that of natural skin.
In another aspect, the compositions provide lightening or whitening effects to the skin, as well as an angular reflection profile that approximates natural skin or is characterized by a substantially Lambertian spectrum. At an angle of incidence less than 60 deg., the skin has a more lambertian reflectance characteristic spectrum. The lightening or whitening effect of many compositions can produce a gray or grayish skin appearance. The grey appearance of the material is characterized by angular reflection of light. In particular, the greater the angular dependence, the more grey the material appears.
If a surface exhibits lambertian reflection, light falling on it is scattered so that the apparent brightness of the surface is the same for an observer regardless of the observer's viewing angle. More specifically, the surface luminance is isotropic. By substantially lambertian feature spectrum or substantially lambertian reflectance, it is meant that the surface brightness is substantially isotropic or approximately the same regardless of the viewing angle of the observer.
Lambertian reflectance is often used as a model for diffuse reflectance. Diffuse reflection is the reflection of light from an uneven or granular surface, so that incident light appears to be reflected at several angles. Which is complementary to the specular reflection. If the surface is completely non-specular, the reflected light will be evenly dispersed over a hemisphere around the surface. For specular reflection, the surface brightness is highest when the viewer is in the perfect direction of reflection, and it decreases sharply.
In another aspect, a method of imparting a lightened appearance to skin provides a cosmetic film on the skin, wherein the cosmetic film on the skin is characterized by a skin appearance measured in terms of L x, a and b color space values that is closer to natural skin than the L x, a and b color space values of the same composition in which the fibrous pigments have an average aspect ratio of less than 5.
"Lab color space" refers to a color subtended space where dimension L is used for brightness and a and b are used for color subtended dimensions based on the non-linearly compressed CIE XYZ color space coordinates. The coordinates of the Hunter 1948L, a, b color space are L, a, and b. Lab is now commonly used as an informal abbreviation for CIE 1976(L, a, b) color space (also known as CIELAB). As used herein, the initials L, a, b or L, a, b refer to CIELAB color space values.
The three coordinates of CIELAB represent the brightness of the color (L x =0 yielding black and L x =100 representing diffuse white; mirror white may be higher), its position between red/magenta and green (a x, negative values representing green and positive values representing magenta) and its position between yellow and blue (b x, negative values representing blue and positive values representing yellow).
In certain embodiments, the sum of the differences in color space values for L, a, and b for compositions comprising fibrous pigments having an average aspect ratio greater than 5 compared to natural skin is less than the sum of the differences in color space values for compositions comprising fibrous pigments having an average aspect ratio less than 5 compared to natural skin.
In one aspect, a method of imparting a lightened appearance to skin comprises topically applying a composition to provide a cosmetic film characterized by a substantially lambertian reflectance onto said skin, wherein said composition comprises from 0.1 to 50% (by weight) of a fibrous pigment having an average diameter greater than 0.2 microns and an average aspect ratio greater than 1.
In a preferred embodiment of any of the compositions described herein, the composition comprises from 0.1 to 30%, or more preferably from 2 to 20% (by weight) fibrous pigment. In another preferred embodiment, the fibrous pigment has an average diameter greater than 0.26 microns. In another preferred embodiment, the fibrous pigment has an average aspect ratio of greater than 5 or 10.
In one embodiment, substantially lambertian reflection refers to the smallest difference in L x over the range of-20 ° to 130 ° reflection angles for incident light at angles less than 60 °. In a specific embodiment, the difference in L at incident light is less than 10%, or more preferably 6%, over a range of reflection angles from-20 ° to 130 ° at angles less than 60 °.
In certain embodiments, the fibrous pigment comprises one or more types of inorganic fibers, such as one or more metal oxides, one or more clay mineral compounds, or mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the inorganic fiber is titanium oxide or halloysite.
In one embodiment, the fibrous pigment is solid. In another embodiment, the fibrous pigment is hollow. In certain embodiments, the fibrous pigment is a mixture of solid and hollow inorganic fibers.
In one embodiment, the method comprises topically applying a composition to the skin to provide a cosmetic film characterized by a substantially lambertian reflection on the skin, wherein the composition comprises from 0.1 to 30% (by weight) of an organic fibrous pigment having an average diameter greater than 0.2 microns and an average aspect ratio greater than 1. In one embodiment, the organic fibers comprise one or more types of organic fibers, such as carbon fibers.
In one embodiment, the method comprises topically applying a composition to the skin to provide a cosmetic film characterized by a substantially lambertian reflection on the skin, wherein the composition comprises from 0.1 to 30% (by weight) of a mixture of organic and inorganic fibrous pigments having an average diameter greater than 0.2 microns and an average aspect ratio greater than 1.
In one embodiment, the method comprises topically applying a composition comprising from 0.1 to 30% (by weight) coated polymeric fibers having a diameter greater than 0.2 microns and an average aspect ratio greater than 1 to provide a cosmetic film characterized by a substantially lambertian reflectance on the skin. The coated polymeric fibers are described herein and include, but are not limited to, polymeric materials coated with inorganic fibers or inorganic substances.
In any of the foregoing methods, the composition further comprises a colorant or pigment.
In any of the foregoing methods, the cosmetic film on the skin is characterized by measuring CIELAB color space values L, a, and b. In certain methods, the color space value of skin coated with a cosmetic film of any of the foregoing compositions is minimally altered or different from the color space value of natural skin. In certain embodiments, the difference between the sum of the color space values of L, a, and b of the skin coated with the cosmetic film and the sum of the color space values of L, a, and b of the natural skin is less than 30%, 25%, 20%, 15%, 10%, 5%, or 2% of the color space value of the natural skin.
In certain embodiments, the skin coated with a cosmetic film of any of the foregoing compositions has a difference in L value of less than 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, or 10% as compared to natural skin. In preferred embodiments, the difference in L is less than 6%, or more preferably less than 3%. In certain embodiments, the skin coated with a cosmetic film of any of the foregoing compositions has a difference in L value of about 0 to 2%, 0 to 3%, 0 to 4%, 0 to 5%, 0 to 6%, 0 to 7%, or 0 to 10% compared to natural skin. In preferred embodiments, the difference in L is about 0 to 6%, or more preferably about 0 to 3%.
In certain embodiments, the skin coated with a cosmetic film of any of the foregoing compositions has a change in value a of less than 20%, 19%, 18%, 17%, 16%, 15%, 14%, 13%, 12%, 11% or 10% as compared to natural skin. In preferred embodiments, the difference in a is less than 18%, or more preferably less than 16%. In certain embodiments, the skin coated with a cosmetic film of any of the foregoing compositions has a difference in a value compared to natural skin of about 0 to 20%, 0 to 19%, 0 to 18%, 0 to 17%, 0 to 16%, 0 to 15%, 0 to 14%, 0 to 13%, 0 to 12%, 0 to 11%, or 0 to 10%. In preferred embodiments, the difference in a is about 0 to 18%, or more preferably about 0 to 16%.
In particular embodiments, when fibrous pigments having an average diameter greater than 0.2 microns and an average aspect ratio greater than 5 are used in the methods described herein, the change in a compared to a of natural skin is less than when non-fibrous pigments or fibrous pigments having an average aspect ratio less than 5 are used.
In certain embodiments, the skin coated with a cosmetic film of any of the foregoing compositions has a b value that differs by less than 40%, 35%, 34%, 33%, 14%, 13%, 12%, 11% or 10% from the natural skin. In preferred embodiments, the difference in b is less than 18%, or more preferably less than 16%. In certain embodiments, the skin coated with a cosmetic film of any of the foregoing compositions has a b value that differs from a natural skin by about 0 to 20%, 0 to 19%, 0 to 18%, 0 to 17%, 0 to 16%, 0 to 15%, 0 to 14%, 0 to 13%, 0 to 12%, 0 to 11%, or 0 to 10%. In preferred embodiments, the difference in b is about 0 to 18%, or more preferably about 0 to 16%.
In certain embodiments, the skin coated with the cosmetic film of any of the foregoing compositions has a difference in a values of less than 18% and a difference in L values of less than 6% as compared to natural skin. In certain sub-embodiments, the composition comprises from 2 to 10% by weight of a fibrous pigment having an average diameter greater than 0.2 micron and an average aspect ratio greater than 5.
In one embodiment, the composition comprising the fibrous pigment of the present invention is characterized in that L at each point differs by less than 10% from L of natural skin in reflection angles of-20 ° to 130 ° at an angle of incidence of less than 60 °.
In one embodiment, the coating of the composition on the skin is a film of about 0.3mils thick. In certain embodiments, the coating of the composition on the skin is a film less than about 0.3mils thick.
In one embodiment, the composition is characterized by a diffuse transmission of at least 35 and a reflectance value of less than 30 on a 0.3mils thick film.
Based on general knowledge and in view of the nature of the components used and the intended use of the composition, the skilled person can select the appropriate presentation form and the method of preparing it.
In general, the compositions used in the methods of the present invention can be prepared by conventional methods, such as methods known in the art for preparing surface compositions. Such methods generally involve mixing the ingredients in one or more steps to a relatively homogeneous state with or without heating, cooling, application of vacuum, and the like.
In another embodiment, the composition may be employed as follows: which is, and may constitute by itself, skin care or make-up compositions, lotions, cosmetic bases, topcoats and other cosmetics. The agent may be an anti-aging agent, a restructuring agent, a stimulant agent, a radical scavenger, an antioxidant, an anti-acne agent, a tranquilizer, an anti-nerve mediator agent, an anti-substance P agent, an anti-allergic agent, a pain relieving agent, an anti-stress agent, an anti-wrinkle agent, a compaction-promoting agent, an elasticizing agent, a cicatrizing agent, a toning agent, a tonicity adjusting agent, a slimming agent, a veintonic agent, a drainage agent, an anti-redness agent, an immunomodulating agent, a lightening agent or a revitalizing agent, or another agent intended to improve the complexion of the skin, stimulate cells, or promote the synthesis of proteins (e.g., collagen or keratin) of the skin.
The preparations having moisturizing and/or restructuring activity on the epidermis incorporating the fibrous pigments according to the invention can be prepared by methods conventionally used by those skilled in the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical field.
The compositions herein can be used by applying an effective amount of the composition to an area surface of the skin. The effective amount can be readily determined by each user.
The composition may be applied at any interval for days, weeks, months or years. The composition is typically applied by gently massaging the composition onto the skin. However, the application method may be any method known in the art and thus is not limited to the aforementioned method.
In particular embodiments, the composition is applied once daily or twice daily. In another embodiment, more than one layer of the composition is applied.
The following examples describe specific aspects of the invention to illustrate the invention and to provide those skilled in the art with a description of the methods of the invention. The examples should not be construed as limiting the invention as they merely provide specific ways in which the invention and its various aspects may be understood and practiced.
Examples
It will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that, while certain preferred and alternative embodiments of the invention have been shown for purposes of disclosing the invention, modifications to the disclosed embodiments may be present.
Example 1 including 5% by weight of fibrous pigment or 5% by weight of spherical microfine pigment TiO 2 Color space comparison of the compositions of (a).
A matrix of 50% by weight Velvasil 7-4(Momentive Performance polymers), 30% TMF, 20% Dow Corning fluid (100,000cst fluid) was prepared containing 5% by weight of fibrous pigment (e.g., TiO produced by known literature techniques)2Nanofibers, such as J.Y.park and S.S.Kim, Metals and materials International, Vol 15(1), pp.95-99(2009)) or 5% (by weight) microfine TiO2(Color technologies inc., micro titanium dioxide USP). Both samples were applied to the forearm at controlled doses. The fine TiO is2Appear grey and chalky, while TiO2The fibers are perceived as natural. Both samples were perceived as lightening the skin tone. For 5% fibrous pigment and 5% microfine TiO2The CIEL, a, b change of the Velvasil 7-4 substrate coating samples was quantified (data shown in figure 1). Generally, with spherical fine TiO2In contrast, containing TiO2The composition of the fibers provides less shift in CIE L, a, b values from the matrix value. Compositions with minimal differences in CIE L, a, b values from natural skin will appear more natural than compositions with greater shifts in CIE L, a, b values.
Example 2 containing 5% of fibrous pigment or 5% of spherical TiO 2 The whitening cream has skin color A color space value.
By applying on the surface a composition containing 5% by weight of a fibrous pigment (e.g. TiO as above)2Nanofibers) or 5% (by weight) of fine TiO2Natural skin CIE L, a, b values were recorded for different subjects before and after whitening cream (Kowett titanium dioxide) (see table 1). CIE L, a and b values are reported relative to the luminescence standard D65.
Table 1.
The CIE a and b values of the natural skin of each individual subject are shown in fig. 2 a. The corresponding CIE L values are shown in the graph next to each data point. In FIG. 2b it is shown that 5% TiO is used2Fiber composition (black arrow) or 5% of spherical TiO2After the composition (grey arrows), the CIE L, a and b values of each individual shifted.
Example 3 coating sampling of fibrous pigments by diffuse Transmission compared to other Soft-Focus materials Ratio (soft focus) and reflectance characteristics.
A composition of 50% by weight Velvasil 7-4(Momentive Performance polymers), 30% TMF, 20% Dow Corning 200 fluid base, containing 5% by weight of fibrous pigment or other soft-focus material was prepared. Measurements of diffuse transmission and reflectance were obtained for 3mils thick wet films of each composition. The concentration (% by weight) of inorganic fibrous or particulate material and matrix for each composition and the corresponding diffuse transmission and reflectance data for each sample are shown in table 2.
Table 2.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
Nano-fiber TiO2 5
Cova lumine TiO2 5
Nano-fiber alumina 5
Nanofiber SiO2 5
Unipure White(LC989 AS-EM) 5
Fumed silica 5
Pyrogenic aluminium oxide 5
Nylon powder 5
Fine TiO 22 5
Halloysite 5
Substrate 95 95 95 95 95 95 95 95 95 95 100
Diffuse transmittance 37 33 38 37 36 45 53 37 36 67 29
Reflectivity of light 24 31 13 14 40 14 14 13 30 13 14
Example 4 containing halloysite or cellulose beads or mixtures of halloysite and cellulose beads The diffuse transmittance and reflectance of the composition
Measurements of diffuse transmission, reflectance and total transmission were obtained for compositions containing 10% by weight of cellulosic beads, 10% by weight of halloysite or 5% by weight of cellulosic beads and 5% by weight of halloysite. The results are shown in table 3.
Table 3.
Diffuse transmittance Reflectivity of light Total transmission Fractional diffuse transmission
10% cellulose beads 67 13 73 92
10% halloysite 65 15 70 92
5% cellulose beads and 5% halloysite 64 16 68 93
Of the three formulations, a composition comprising 10% halloysite or 5% (by weight) cellulose beads and 5% (by weight) halloysite was identified as having improved blurring effect on hands and face. A composition comprising 5% by weight of cellulose beads and 5% by weight of halloysite was determined to provide a blurring effect on hands and face and to provide a good feel.
Example 5 angular reflectance of spherical and fibrous pigments was compared.
Topical skin lotion composition comprising 5% by weight of fibrous pigment (TiO)2Nanofibers) or 5% (by weight) of spherical TiO2) The previously and subsequently recorded native skin L values at several angles in the range of-20 ° to 130 ° reflection angles. The native skin L values at different angles are shown in figure 3 a. For various angles, fibrous TiO is included2(black dots) or spherical TiO2The L values of the (white dot) compositions are shown in figure 3 b. CIE L values are reported relative to the luminescence standard D65. The angle of incidence is 45.
The angular reflection of natural skin is observed to be almost flat (lambertian reflection). In particular, at an angle of incidence less than 60 °, the skin has a characteristic spectrum close to the lambertian reflection. The data show that there is fibrous TiO2The composition provides a characteristic spectrum close to Lambertian reflection or a reflection characteristic spectrum of natural skin, and contains spherical TiO2The composition of (a) has a high correlation with the angle of reflected light and causes the skin to appear grey or to be ashy. To which a pigment comprising fibers (TiO) is applied2Nanofibers) are determined to have a substantially flat angular correlation or lambertian profile and to behave more like natural skin. Compositions containing fibrous pigments are perceived as having a more natural whitening effect.
Panel data regarding the naturalness of the two compositions is provided in table 4.
Table 4.
Example 6 shadow of the diameter of fibrous pigments on the color space values (CIE a and b values) And (6) sounding.
CIE a and b values of natural skin of persons with various skin tones were measured. The result is shown in fig. 4a, where a region of a-b space values is defined that can be considered natural.
Prepared by mixing a silicone base and 5% (by weight) of 10nm to 300nm in various sizesOf TiO 22A composition of fibers. CIE a and b values of natural skin of persons with various skin tones were measured. The results are shown in figure 4 b. The following materials were tested at a 5% (w/w) load:
1.TiO2(fiber, 300nm diameter, anatase phase) [ black circles ]]
2.TiO2(fiber, 270nm diameter, rutile phase) [ black triangle ]]
3.TiO2(fiber, 200nm diameter, rutile phase) [ black squares]
4.TiO2(fiber, 100nm diameter, rutile phase) [ hollow black square]
5.TiO2(fiber, 10nm diameter, rutile phase) [ black diamonds]。
Representative data points are displayed for a person having a hue centered in the color space. Discovery of TiO2The color of the fiber is related to the size. In particular, fibers having a diameter of 200nm and less exhibit a hue outside the natural region. Panel data regarding the naturalness of the two compositions is provided in table 5.
Table 5.
10nm 100nm 200nm 270nm 300nm
Is the skin look lighter? 4-is 5-is 5-is 5-is 5-is
Does the skin look natural? 5-is not 5-is not 5-is not 5-is 5-is
All 5 panelists reported that the 10, 100 and 200nm diameter samples appeared bluish and unnatural. It was found that compositions containing fibers >200nm provide a natural looking hue.
Example 7 spherical pigment and fibrous TiO in high hiding liquid make-up 2 Angular reflectance ratio of Then the obtained product is obtained.
High hiding make-up (containing 4% by weight of fibrous pigment (TiO)) for topical application2Nanofibers) and 7.7% spherical TiO2(U.S. cosmetics Inc. ST-PEG/MOD-TAS-77891) or 4% (by weight) Fine TiO2(Color Techniques Inc., micro titanium dioxide USP) and 7.7% spherical TiO2(u.s.cosmetics inc. st-PEG/MOD-TAS-77891)) before and after the natural skin L values at several reflection angles from-20 ° to 130 °. The native skin L values (white squares) for different angles are shown in fig. 5. In FIG. 5 is shown for a fiber containingSpherical TiO2(solid black dots) or fine and spherical TiO2Composition of (white dots), L values of various angles. CIE L values relative to the luminescence standard D65 are reported. The angle of incidence is 45.
The angular reflection of natural skin is observed to be approximately flat. The data show that fibrous TiO is present2The composition of (A) provides a scattering profile closer to that of natural skin, while containing spherical and fine TiO2The composition of (a) has a high correlation with the angle of reflected light and causes the skin to appear grey. To which a pigment comprising fibers (TiO) is applied2Nanofibers) are determined to have a substantially flat angular correlation or lambertian profile and to behave more like natural skin. Compositions containing fibrous pigments are perceived as more natural.
Panel data regarding the naturalness of the two compositions is provided in table 6.
6% fibrous +6% spherical TiO2 6% microfine +6% spherical TiO2
Which appears most natural? 4-is 1-is

Claims (12)

1. A method of imparting a pigmented film on skin, said method comprising topically applying a composition to provide a cosmetic film on said skin, said composition comprising from 0.1 to 30% by weight of a fibrous pigment having an average diameter greater than 0.2 microns and an average aspect ratio greater than 5, and from 0.1 to 30% of a colorant selected from pigments, lakes, and dyes, said cosmetic film characterized by a more natural appearance of skin than that provided by an otherwise identical composition in which the fibrous pigment has an average aspect ratio less than 5;
whereinThe fibrous pigment comprises a metal oxide, which is TiO2Halloysite, ZnO or iron oxides.
2. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition is characterized by a diffuse transmission of at least 35 and a reflectance value of less than 30 on a 0.3mil thick film.
3. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition is a colored cosmetic composition.
4. The method of claim 3, wherein the colored cosmetic composition is a foundation.
5. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition comprises one or more sunscreens.
6. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition comprises one or more film forming agents.
7. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the metal oxide is iron oxide.
8. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the fibrous pigment is a metal oxide coated fiber comprised of a polymeric material.
9. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the fibrous pigment is halloysite or TiO2And (3) nano fibers.
10. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the fibrous pigment is a fiber having a surface roughness.
11. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition is free of colored pigments.
12. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the cosmetic film on the skin is characterized by a lambertian reflection.
HK12110880.8A 2009-12-22 2010-10-12 Cosmetic compositions comprising fibrous pigments HK1170159B (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US12/645,067 US9364689B2 (en) 2009-12-22 2009-12-22 Cosmetic compositions comprising fibrous pigments
US12/645,067 2009-12-22
PCT/US2010/052260 WO2011078903A1 (en) 2009-12-22 2010-10-12 Cosmetic compositions comprising fibrous pigments

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
HK1170159A1 HK1170159A1 (en) 2013-02-22
HK1170159B true HK1170159B (en) 2015-12-24

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