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HK1158128A - Hair conditioning composition containing a salt of stearyl amidopropyl dimethylamine and l-glutamic acid - Google Patents

Hair conditioning composition containing a salt of stearyl amidopropyl dimethylamine and l-glutamic acid Download PDF

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Publication number
HK1158128A
HK1158128A HK11112563.9A HK11112563A HK1158128A HK 1158128 A HK1158128 A HK 1158128A HK 11112563 A HK11112563 A HK 11112563A HK 1158128 A HK1158128 A HK 1158128A
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Hong Kong
Prior art keywords
composition
hair
melting point
conditioning
present
Prior art date
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HK11112563.9A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
Toshiyuki Okada
Ananthanarayan Venkateswaran
Jian-Zhong Yang
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宝洁公司
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Publication of HK1158128A publication Critical patent/HK1158128A/en

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Description

Hair conditioning composition comprising a salt of stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine with L-glutamic acid
Technical Field
The present invention relates to hair conditioning compositions comprising: (a) a cationic surfactant which is a salt of stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine with L-glutamic acid; (b) a high melting point aliphatic compound; and (c) an aqueous carrier; wherein the composition has a yield point of at least 5Pa, and the yield point satisfies the following mathematical expression: y is greater than or equal to 6.0X-28.5, wherein Y is the yield point of the composition and X is the total amount (percentage by weight of the composition) of the cationic surfactant and the high melting point fatty compound; and wherein the composition is substantially free of thickening polymer. The compositions of the present invention effectively deliver conditioning benefits to hair.
Background
Various methods have been developed to condition hair. One common method of providing conditioning benefits is through the use of conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants and polymers, high melting point fatty compounds, low melting point oils, silicone compounds, and mixtures thereof. Most of these conditioning agents are known to provide multiple conditioning benefits. For example, when used with certain high melting point fatty compounds and aqueous carriers, it is believed that certain cationic surfactants can provide a gel matrix suitable for providing a variety of conditioning benefits, such as smooth feel during application to wet hair, and softness and moisturized feel on dry hair.
For example, WO 2006/044209 discloses hair conditioning compositions comprising by weight: (a) from about 0.1% to about 10% of a cationic surfactant; (b) from about 2.5% to about 15%, by weight of the composition, of a high melting point fatty compound; and (c) an aqueous carrier; wherein the cationic surfactant, the high melting point fatty compound, and the aqueous carrier form a lamellar gel matrix; wherein the d-spacing of the layered layers is in the range of 33nm or less; and wherein the composition has a yield stress of about 30Pa or greater at 26.7 ℃. The hair conditioning composition is said to provide improved conditioning benefits, especially improved smooth feel during application to wet hair.
However, there remains a need for hair conditioning compositions that can effectively deliver conditioning benefits to hair, i.e., improved conditioning benefits are obtained from the same amount of active ingredients, such as cationic surfactants and high melting point fatty compounds.
There is also a need for hair conditioning compositions with lower actives content that have the same desired rheology, such as yield point and desired stability, as the commercial products, while providing improved wet conditioning benefits. It remains difficult to achieve this desired rheology and stability in conditioning compositions having lower actives levels. Certain compositions having lower active content comprise thickening polymers to have this rheological profile and stability. It is believed, however, that the addition of thickening polymers reduces the wet conditioning benefit.
There remains a need for hair conditioning compositions with higher active levels that provide improved conditioning benefits, especially improved wet conditioning benefits after rinsing, and improved dry conditioning benefits while maintaining wet conditioning benefits before rinsing. There remains a need for hair conditioning compositions with higher active levels that provide improved product appearance, i.e., a more dense, thick, and/or concentrated product appearance, and whose consumer can receive higher conditioning benefits from its appearance feel.
None of the prior art provides all of the advantages and benefits of the present invention.
Disclosure of Invention
The present invention relates to hair conditioning compositions comprising:
(a) a cationic surfactant which is a salt of stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine with L-glutamic acid;
(b) a high melting point aliphatic compound; and is
(c) An aqueous carrier;
wherein the composition has a yield point of at least 5Pa, and the yield point satisfies the following mathematical expression:
Y≥6.0X-28.5
wherein Y is the yield point of the composition and X is the total amount of the cationic surfactant and the high melting point fatty compound (percentages by weight of the composition);
and wherein the composition is substantially free of thickening polymer.
The compositions of the present invention effectively deliver conditioning benefits to hair.
Furthermore, the compositions of the present invention, especially those with lower active levels, can have the same desired rheology, e.g., yield point and desired stability, as commercial products without the inclusion of thickening polymers, thereby not reducing wet conditioning benefits.
In addition, the compositions of the present invention, especially those with higher active levels, can provide improved conditioning benefits and/or improved product appearance.
These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will become better understood upon reading the following description and appended claims.
Drawings
While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing out and distinctly claiming the invention, it is believed that the present invention will be better understood from the following description taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in which:
figure 1 shows an embodiment of a d-spacing assay for a lamellar gel matrix comprising lamellar bilayers 1 and water 2.
Detailed Description
While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing out and distinctly claiming the invention, it is believed that the present invention will be better understood from the following description.
Herein, "comprising" means that other steps and other ingredients which do not affect the end result can be added. The term includes the terms "consisting of and" consisting essentially of.
All percentages, parts and ratios are based on the total weight of the composition of the present invention, unless otherwise specified. All such weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on the active level and, therefore, do not include carriers or by-products that may be included in commercially available materials.
As used herein, "mixture" is meant to include simple combinations of substances as well as any compounds resulting from their combination.
Composition of
The hair conditioning composition of the present invention comprises:
(a) a cationic surfactant which is a salt of stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine with L-glutamic acid;
(b) a high melting point aliphatic compound; and is
(c) An aqueous carrier;
wherein the composition has a yield point of at least 5Pa, and the yield point satisfies the following mathematical expression:
y is 6.0X-28.5 or more, preferably 6.0X-20.3 or more, more preferably 6.0X-12.2 or more,
wherein Y is the yield point of the composition and X is the total amount of the cationic surfactant and the high melting point fatty compound (percentages by weight of the composition);
and wherein the composition is substantially free of thickening polymer.
The inventors of the present invention have found that by having a yield value that satisfies the specific mathematical expression described above, the compositions of the present invention can effectively deliver conditioning benefits to hair. Furthermore, the inventors of the present invention have found that by having a yield value that satisfies the above specific mathematical expressions, the compositions of the present invention, especially those with lower active levels, can have the same desired rheology, such as yield point and desired stability, as commercial products without the inclusion of a thickening polymer, thereby not reducing the wet conditioning benefit. Furthermore, the inventors of the present invention have found that by having a yield value that satisfies the specific mathematical expressions described above, the compositions of the present invention, especially those having higher active levels, can provide improved conditioning benefits and/or improved product appearance.
To form the compositions of the present invention, the compositions are preferably prepared by the following method entitled "method of preparation".
(i) Yield point
The yield point of the present invention was determined by dynamic oscillatory stress-scanning at 25 ℃ using a rheometer model name AR2000 from TA Instruments using a 40mm diameter parallel geometry with a 1000 μm gap.
The compositions of the present invention have a yield point of about 5Pa or higher, preferably 8Pa or higher, from the standpoint of providing the same suitable rheology and product stability as commercially available products.
The compositions of the present invention preferably have a yield point of about 33Pa or greater, preferably about 35Pa or greater, more preferably 40Pa or greater, from the standpoint of providing improved wet conditioning benefits and improved dry conditioning benefits after rinsing. The yield points described above are also preferred in view of providing a denser, thickened, and/or more concentrated product appearance.
The yield point is preferably up to about 80Pa, more preferably up to about 75Pa, and still more preferably up to about 70Pa, from the standpoints of spreadability and product appearance.
(ii) The total amount of cationic surfactant and high melting point fatty compound
The total amount of cationic surfactant and high melting point fatty compound is preferably from about 4%, more preferably from about 4.5%, and still more preferably from about 5% by weight of the composition, from the standpoint of providing the benefits of the present invention, and from the standpoint of spreadability and product appearance, is up to about 15%, preferably to about 14%, more preferably to about 13%, and still more preferably to about 10% by weight of the composition.
(iii) Substantially free of thickening polymer
The compositions of the present invention are substantially free of thickening polymers. It is believed that the addition of the thickening polymer reduces the spreadability of the product. In the present invention, "the composition is substantially free of thickening polymer" means that: the composition is free of thickening polymers; or if the composition comprises a thickening polymer, the content of this thickening polymer is very low. In the present invention, the content of this thickening polymer (if included) is 1% or less, preferably 0.5% or less, more preferably 0.1% or less, still more preferably 0.06%, by weight of the composition. Most preferably, this thickening polymer is present at a level of 0% by weight of the composition. Such thickening polymers include, for example, guar polymers (including nonionic and cationic guar polymers), cellulosic polymers (including nonionic, cationic, and/or hydrophobically modified cellulosic polymers such as cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose), other synthetic polymers (including nonionic and cationic synthetic polymers such as polyquaternium-37).
(iv) D-spacing
The inventors of the present invention have surprisingly found that a composition characterized by the above specified conversion in combination with a specified yield point provides improved wetting properties, especially wet conditioning after rinsing, even if the composition has a larger d-spacing than the composition of WO 2006/044209. This larger d-spacing is referred to herein as a d-spacing greater than 33nm (excluding 33 nm). The d-spacing of the present invention refers to the distance between two lamellar bilayers plus the width of one lamellar bilayer in a lamellar gel matrix, as shown in FIG. 1. Thus, the d-spacing is defined according to the following equation:
d-spacing ═ DWater (W)+dDouble layer
By using a high-throughput small angle X-ray scatterometer available from PANALYtic under the trade name SAXSess at 0.06 < q/nm-1D-spacing was determined under typical conditions for small angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) measurements in the q-range (q 4 pi/λ sin (θ), where λ is the wavelength and θ is half the scattering angle) < 27 (which corresponds to 0.085 < 2 θ/degree < 40). By monitoring the main beam attenuation intensity and normalizing it, transmission correction is performed on all data so that the relative intensities of different samples can be obtained. Transmission throughThe correction enables us to accurately subtract the contribution of water from the pure sample scatter. The D-spacing is calculated according to the following formula (which is referred to as the bragg formula):
n λ 2dsin (θ), where n is the number of lamellar bilayers.
Cationic surfactant
The composition of the present invention comprises a cationic surfactant which is a salt of stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine with L-glutamic acid. The amine and acid are included in the composition in amounts such that the molar ratio of amine to acid is preferably from about 1: 0.3 to about 1: 2, more preferably from about 1: 0.3 to about 1: 1.3, and even more preferably from about 1: 0.4 to about 1: 1. The cationic surfactant is present in the composition at a level of from about 0.5%, preferably from about 1%, more preferably from about 1.5%, still more preferably from about 1.8%, even more preferably from about 2.0%, and to about 8%, preferably to about 5%, more preferably to about 4%, by weight of the composition, from the standpoint of providing the benefits of the present invention.
The compositions of the present invention may contain other cationic surfactants such as other mono-long chain alkyl cationic surfactants having one long chain alkyl group containing from about 12 to about 40 carbon atoms, preferably from about 16 to about 30 carbon atoms. Other such mono-long chain alkyl cationic surfactants include, for example: mono-long chain alkyl quaternary ammonium salts such as behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, behenyl trimethyl ammonium methyl sulfate, cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride; other mono-long alkyl tertiary amines, such as other mono-long alkyl amidotertiary amines and salts thereof, such as the salt of behenyl amidopropyl dimethylamine with 1-glutamic acid. When other mono-long alkyl cationic surfactants are included, the salt of stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine with L-glutamic acid is preferably present in an amount of from about 50% to about 100%, more preferably from about 70% to about 100%, still more preferably from about 80% to about 100%, even more preferably from about 90% to about 100%, by total weight of cationic surfactants in the composition.
In the present invention, the compositions are preferably substantially free of di-long chain alkyl cationic surfactants having two long chain alkyl groups containing from about 12 to about 40 carbon atoms, such as dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, for improved wet conditioning benefits. In the present invention, "the composition is substantially free of di-long chain alkyl cationic surfactants" means: the composition is free of di-long alkyl cationic surfactants; or if the composition comprises di-long alkyl cationic surfactants, the level of such di-long alkyl cationic surfactants is very low. In the present invention, such di-long chain alkyl cationic surfactants (if included) are present at a level of 1% or less, preferably 0.5% or less, more preferably 0.1% or less by weight of the composition. Most preferably, such di-long chain alkyl cationic surfactants are present at a level of 0% by weight of the composition.
High melting point aliphatic compounds
The high melting point fatty compound is present in the composition at a level of from about 1.5%, preferably from about 2%, more preferably from about 4%, still more preferably from about 5%, even more preferably from about 5.5%, and to about 15%, preferably to about 10%, by weight of the composition, in view of providing the benefits of the present invention.
The high melting point fatty compounds useful herein have a melting point of 25 ℃ or higher, preferably 40 ℃ or higher, more preferably 45 ℃ or higher, and still more preferably 50 ℃ or higher, from the viewpoint of stability of the gel matrix. From the viewpoint of easier preparation and easier emulsification, this melting point is preferably at most about 90 ℃, more preferably at most about 80 ℃, still more preferably at most about 70 ℃, even more preferably at most about 65 ℃. In the present invention, the high melting point fatty compound may be used in the form of a single compound or in the form of a blend or mixture of at least two high melting point fatty compounds. When used in the form of such a blend or mixture, the above melting point refers to the melting point of the blend or mixture.
The high melting point fatty compounds useful herein are selected from the group consisting of: fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof. It will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that the compounds disclosed in this section of the specification may in some cases belong to more than one class, for example certain fatty alcohol derivatives may also be classified as fatty acid derivatives. However, the given categories are not intended to be limiting with respect to particular compounds, but are for ease of classification and nomenclature. Furthermore, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that certain compounds having a desired certain carbon atom may have a melting point lower than the above preferred melting point in the present invention, depending on the number and position of double bonds and the length and position of the branches. Such low melting compounds are not intended to be included in this section. Non-limiting examples of high melting point compounds can be found in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary" fifth edition (1993) and the "CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook" second edition (1992).
Among the various high melting point fatty compounds, fatty alcohols are preferred for use in the compositions of the present invention. Fatty alcohols useful herein are those having from about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are saturated and may be straight chain alcohols or branched chain alcohols.
Preferred fatty alcohols include, for example, cetyl alcohol (melting point about 56℃.), stearyl alcohol (melting point about 58-59℃.), behenyl alcohol (melting point about 71℃.), and mixtures thereof. These compositions are known to have the melting points described above. However, they typically have a lower melting point when provided because such products are typically provided as mixtures of fatty alcohols having an alkyl chain length distribution in which the alkyl backbone is cetyl, stearyl, or behenyl in the present invention, with the more preferred fatty alcohols being cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
Commercially available high melting point fatty compounds useful in the present invention include: cetyl, stearyl and behenyl alcohols available under the trade name KONOL series from Shin Nihon Rika (Osaka, Japan) and NAA series from NOF (Tokyo, Japan); pure behenyl alcohol available from WAKO (Osaka, Japan) under the trade name 1-DOCOSANOL.
Aqueous carrier
The conditioning compositions of the present invention comprise an aqueous carrier. The amount and type of carrier is selected based on compatibility with other components and other properties desired for the product.
Carriers useful in the present invention include water and aqueous solutions of lower alkyl alcohols and polyols. Lower alkyl alcohols useful herein are monohydric alcohols having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably ethanol and isopropanol. Polyols useful herein include propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and propylene glycol.
Preferably, the aqueous carrier is substantially water. Deionized water is preferably used. Water of natural origin containing mineral cations may also be used, depending on the desired properties of the product. The compositions of the present invention generally comprise from about 20% to about 99%, preferably from about 30% to about 95%, and more preferably from about 80% to about 90% water.
Gel matrix
The compositions of the present invention comprise a gel matrix, which includes a lamellar gel matrix. The gel matrix comprises a cationic surfactant, a high melting point fatty compound, and an aqueous carrier. The gel matrix is suitable for providing a variety of conditioning benefits such as slippery feel during application to wet hair, softness, and moisturized feel on dry hair.
The cationic surfactant and the high melting point fatty compound are present in an amount such that the weight ratio of the cationic surfactant to the high melting point fatty compound is preferably in the range of from about 1: 1 to about 1: 10, more preferably from about 1: 1 to about 1: 4, and even more preferably from about 1: 2 to about 1: 4, from the standpoint of providing improved wet conditioning benefits.
From the viewpoint of stability of the gel matrix, the composition of the present invention is preferably substantially free of anionic surfactant and anionic polymer. In the present invention, "the composition is substantially free of anionic surfactant and anionic polymer" means that: the composition is free of anionic surfactants and anionic polymers; or if the composition comprises anionic surfactant and anionic polymer, the level of anionic surfactant and anionic polymer is very low. In the present invention, the total content of such anionic surfactant and anionic polymer (if included) is 1% or less, preferably 0.5% or less, more preferably 0.1% or less by weight of the composition. Most preferably, the total level of anionic surfactant and anionic polymer is 0% by weight of the composition.
Siloxane compound
Preferably, the composition of the present invention preferably comprises a silicone compound. It is believed that the silicone compound provides smoothness and softness on dry hair. The silicone compounds herein are preferably used in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, and still more preferably from about 1% to about 8%, by weight of the composition.
Preferably, in the composition, the silicone compound has an average particle size of from about 1 micron to about 50 microns.
In this context, the silicone compounds which can be used in the form of a single compound or in the form of a blend or mixture of at least two silicone compounds or in the form of a blend or mixture of at least one silicone compound with at least one solvent have a viscosity at 25 ℃ of preferably from about 1,000 to about 2,000,000 mPas.
The viscosity can be determined by using a glass capillary viscometer as described in the test method CTM0004 of Dow Corning, 20 d 7/1970. Suitable silicone fluids include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers, amino-substituted siloxanes, quaternized siloxanes, and mixtures thereof. Other nonvolatile silicone compounds having conditioning properties may also be used.
Preferred polyalkylsiloxanes include, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane, and polymethylphenylsiloxane. Polydimethylsiloxane, also known as dimethicone, is particularly preferred. For example, these silicone compounds may be their ViscasilAnd TSF 451 series are available from General Electric Company and their Dow Corning SH200 series are available from Dow Corning.
For example, the above polyalkylsiloxanes are commercially available as mixtures with siloxane compounds having a relatively low viscosity. Such mixtures have a viscosity of preferably from about 1,000 to about 100,000 mPas, more preferably from about 5,000 to about 50,000 mPas. Such mixtures preferably comprise: (i) a first siloxane having a viscosity of from about 100,000mPa s to about 30,000,000mPa s, preferably from about 100,000mPa s to about 20,000,000mPa s, at 25 ℃; and (ii) a second siloxane having a viscosity of from about 5 to about 10,000 mPas, preferably from about 5 to about 5,000 mPas, at 25 ℃. Such mixtures useful herein include, for example, a blend of a polydimethylsiloxane having a viscosity of 18,000,000mPa · s from GE Toshiba with a polydimethylsiloxane having a viscosity of 200mPa · s, and a blend of a polydimethylsiloxane having a viscosity of 18,000,000mPa · s from GETOshiba with cyclopentasiloxane.
The silicone compounds useful herein also include silicone gums. As used herein, the term "silicone gum" refers to a polyorganosiloxane material having a viscosity greater than or equal to 1,000,000 centistokes at 25 ℃. It should be appreciated that the silicone gums described herein may also have some overlap with the silicone compounds disclosed above. This overlap is not intended to be limiting with respect to any of these materials. The weight average molecular weight of the "silicone gum" is typically above about 200,000, usually between about 200,000 and about 1,000,000. Specific examples thereof include polydimethylsiloxane, poly (dimethylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, poly (dimethylsiloxane diphenylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, and mixtures thereof. For example, the silicone gum may be obtained as a mixture with a silicone compound having a lower viscosity. Such mixtures useful herein include, for example, rubber gumstock/Cyclomethicone (Cyclomethicone) blends available from Shin-Etsu.
Siloxane compounds that may also be used in the present invention include amino-substituted materials. Preferred aminosiloxanes include, for example, those conforming to the structure of formula (I):
(R1)aG3-a-Si-(-OSiG2)n-(-OSiGb(R1)2-b)m-O-SiG3-a(R1)a
wherein G is hydrogen, phenyl, hydroxy, or C1-C8Alkyl, preferably methyl; a is 0 or an integer having a value of 1 to 3, preferably 1; b is 0, 1 or 2, preferably 1; n is a number from 0 to 1,999; m is an integer of 0 to 1,999; and the sum of n and m is a number from 1 to 2,000; a and m are not equal to 0; r1To conform to the general formula CqH2qA monovalent group of L, wherein q is an integer having a value of 2 to 8, and L is selected from the group consisting of: -N (R)2)CH2-CH2-N(R2)2、-N(R2)2、-N(R2)3A、-N(R2)CH2-CH2-NR2H2A; wherein R is2Is hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated hydrocarbon radical, preferably about C1To about C20Alkyl groups of (a); a is a halide ion.
Highly preferred aminosiloxanes are those conforming to the structure of formula (I) wherein m ═ 0, a ═ 1, q ═ 3, G ═ methyl, n is preferably from about 1500 to about 1700, more preferably about 1600; and L is-N (CH)3)2or-NH2More preferably-NH2. Another highly preferred aminosiloxane is those conforming to the structure of formula (I) wherein m ═ 0, a ═ 1, q ═ 3, G ═ methyl, n is preferably from about 400 toAbout 600, more preferably about 500; and L is-N (CH)3)2or-NH2More preferably-NH2. Such highly preferred aminosilicones may be referred to as blocked aminosilicones, since one or both ends of the siloxane chain are blocked by a nitrogen-containing group.
When the above aminosilicones are incorporated into the composition, the aminosilicones may be mixed with solvents having a relatively low viscosity. Such solvents include, for example, polar or non-polar, volatile or non-volatile oils. Such oils include, for example, silicone oils, hydrocarbons, and esters. Among such various solvents, preferred are those selected from the group consisting of: non-polar volatile hydrocarbons, volatile cyclic siloxanes, non-volatile linear siloxanes, and mixtures thereof. Non-volatile linear silicones useful herein are those having a viscosity of from about 1 to about 20,000 centistokes, preferably from about 20 to about 10,000 centistokes, at 25 ℃. In order to reduce the viscosity of the aminosilicones and provide improved hair conditioning benefits such as reduced friction of dry hair, non-polar volatile hydrocarbons, especially non-polar volatile isoparaffins, are highly preferred in preferred solvents. Such mixtures have a viscosity of preferably from about 1,000 to about 100,000 mPas, more preferably from about 5,000 to about 50,000 mPas.
Other suitable alkylamino substituted silicone compounds include those having an alkylamino substituent as a pendant group on the silicone backbone. Those known as "amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes" are highly preferred. Commercially available amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes that can be used in the present invention include, for example, BY16-872 available from Dow Corning.
The silicone compounds may be further incorporated into the compositions of the present invention in the form of an emulsion, wherein the emulsion is made by mechanical agitation, or by emulsion polymerization during the synthesis stage, with or without the aid of a surfactant selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
Additional Components
The compositions of the present invention may contain other additional components which may be selected by those skilled in the art depending on the desired characteristics of the final product and which are suitable to make the compositions more aesthetically or aesthetically acceptable or to provide them with additional use benefits. Such other additional components are typically used alone at levels of from about 0.001% to about 10%, preferably up to about 5%, by weight of the composition.
A wide variety of other additional components may be formulated into the compositions of the present invention. These include: other conditioning agents such as hydrolyzed collagen from Hormel under the trade name Peptein 2000, vitamin E from Eisai under the trade name Emix-d, panthenol from Roche, panthenyl ethyl ether from Roche, hydrolyzed keratin, proteins, plant extracts, and nutrients; preservatives, such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben and imidazolidinyl urea; pH adjusters such as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; colorants such as any FD & C or D & C dyes; a fragrance; and sequestering agents, such as disodium edetate; ultraviolet and infrared screening and absorbing agents, such as benzophenone; and anti-dandruff agents such as zinc 1-oxo-2-mercaptopyridine.
Low melting point oil
Low melting point oils useful in the present invention are those having a melting point of less than 25 ℃. The low melting point oils useful in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of: hydrocarbons having from 10 to about 40 carbon atoms; unsaturated fatty alcohols having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, such as oleyl alcohol; unsaturated fatty acids having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms; a fatty acid derivative; a fatty alcohol derivative; ester oils such as pentaerythritol ester oils (including pentaerythritol tetraisostearate), trimethylol ester oils, citrate ester oils, and glyceride oils; poly-alpha-olefin oils, such as polydecene; and mixtures thereof.
Product form
The conditioning compositions of the present invention may be in the form of rinse-off products or leave-on products and may be formulated in a variety of product forms including, but not limited to, creams, gels, emulsions, mousses, and sprays. The conditioning compositions of the present invention are particularly suitable for rinse-off hair conditioners.
Application method
The conditioning composition of the present invention is preferably used in a method of conditioning hair comprising the steps of:
(i) after shampooing, applying an effective amount of the conditioning composition to the hair to condition the hair; and is
(ii) The hair is then rinsed.
Herein, an effective amount is, for example, from about 0.1mL to about 2mL per 10g of hair, preferably from about 0.2mL to about 1.5mL per 10g of hair.
The conditioning compositions of the present invention provide improved conditioning benefits, particularly improved wet conditioning benefits after rinsing and improved dry conditioning benefits, while maintaining wet conditioning benefits before rinsing. The conditioning compositions of the present invention may also provide improved product appearance to the consumer. Thus, the low dose conditioning compositions of the present invention can provide the same degree of conditioning benefit as a full dose conventional conditioner composition. Such low doses herein are, for example, about 0.3mL to about 0.7mL per 10g of hair.
Preparation method
The composition of the present invention is preferably prepared by a process comprising the steps of:
(1) preparing a premix (which may be referred to as an oil phase hereinafter) comprising a cationic surfactant and a high melting point fatty compound, wherein the temperature of the premix is above the melting point of the high melting point fatty compound; and is
(2) Preparing an aqueous carrier (which may be referred to hereinafter as an aqueous phase), wherein the aqueous carrier has a temperature below the melting point of the high melting point fatty compound; and is
(3) Mixing the premix with the aqueous carrier and forming a gel matrix.
The method also preferably includes the step of adding additional ingredients, if included, such as silicone compounds, fragrances, preservatives, to the gel matrix.
When the premix is mixed with the aqueous carrier, the premix preferably has a temperature of from about 25 ℃, more preferably from about 40 ℃, still more preferably from about 50 ℃, even more preferably from about 55 ℃, still more preferably from about 65 ℃, and to about 150 ℃, more preferably to about 95 ℃, still more preferably to about 90 ℃, even more preferably to about 85 ℃.
When the aqueous carrier is mixed with the premix, the aqueous carrier preferably has a temperature of from about 10 ℃, more preferably from about 15 ℃, still more preferably from about 20 ℃, and to about 65 ℃, more preferably to about 55 ℃, still more preferably to about 52 ℃. When the aqueous carrier is mixed with the premix, the temperature of the aqueous carrier is preferably at least about 5 ℃ lower, more preferably at least about 10 ℃ lower, than the temperature of the premix. When the aqueous carrier is mixed with the premix, the temperature of the aqueous carrier is preferably from about 2 ℃ to about 60 ℃, more preferably from about 2 ℃ to about 40 ℃, and still more preferably from about 2 ℃ to about 30 ℃ below the melting point of the high melting point fatty compound.
Preferably, a high shear homogenizer is used to mix the premix and the aqueous carrier. Such high shear homogenizers useful herein include, for example: sonolater from Sonic CorporationManton Gaulin-type homogenizer from APV Manton Corporation, Microfluidics homogenizer from Microfluidics Corporation, A.Berents Gmbh&Becomix of Co。
Preferably, the total amount of cationic surfactant and high melting point fatty compound is from about 7.0%, preferably from about 7.5%, more preferably from about 8.0% by weight of the composition, and from spreadability and product appearance considerations, is up to about 15%, preferably to about 14%, more preferably to about 13%, still more preferably to about 10% by weight of the composition, from the standpoint of providing the benefits of the present invention.
The mixing step (3) preferably comprises the following detailed steps: (3-1) adding the oil phase or the aqueous phase to a density of about 1.0X 102J/m3Or higher high shear regions; (3-2) adding the other phase directly to the region; and (3-3) forming an emulsion. Said step preferably also requires at least one of the following conditions: performing the mixing step (3) by using a homogenizer having a rotating member; the surfactant is a mono-alkyl cationic surfactant and the composition is substantially free of di-alkyl cationic surfactants; and the surfactant is a cationic surfactant and the oil phase comprises from 0 to about 50%, by weight of the oil phase, of an aqueous carrier, the oil phase preferably being substantially free of water.
Examples
The following examples further describe and demonstrate embodiments within the scope of the present invention. These examples are given solely for the purpose of illustration and are not to be construed as limitations of the present invention, as many variations thereof are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. All ingredients suitable for use herein are identified by chemical name or CTFA name unless otherwise defined below.
Composition (wt%)
Definition of Components
*1 aminosilicone: from GE, has a viscosity of 10,000 mPas and has the following structure of formula (I):
(R1)aG3-a-Si-(-OSiG2)n-(-OSiGb(R1)2-b)m-O-SiG3-a(R1)a(I)
wherein G is methyl; a is an integer of 1; b is 0, 1 or 2, preferably 1; n is a number from 400 to about 600; m is an integer of 0; r1To conform to the general formula CqH2qA monovalent group of the structure L, wherein q is an integer of 3 and L is-NH2
*2 cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose: polysurf, available from Hurcules Inc.
Preparation method
The conditioning compositions of "example 1" to "example 4" are suitably prepared by the following process:
the cationic surfactant and the high melting point fatty compound are mixed and heated to about 65 ℃ to about 90 ℃ to form a premix. Separately, water at about 25 ℃ to about 52 ℃ is formulated. In BecomixInjecting the premix into a direct injection rotor-stator homogenizer at an energy density of 1.0 x 104J/m3To 1.0X 107J/m3In the high shear region of the already present water. Forming a gel matrix. If included, the silicone compound, fragrance, preservative are added to the gel base with agitation. The composition was then allowed to cool to room temperature.
The conditioning compositions of "example i" through "example iii" as indicated above may be prepared by any conventional method well known in the art. They can be suitably prepared by the following method:
the cationic surfactant and high melting point fatty compound are added to water with stirring and heated to about 80 ℃. The mixture is cooled to about 55 ℃ and a gel matrix is formed. If included, the silicone compound, fragrance, preservative are added to the gel base with agitation. The mixture was then allowed to cool to room temperature. The polymer, if included, is added to the mixture with stirring.
Property and Conditioning benefits
For the compositions of examples 1-4 and examples i-iii, the yield stress was determined by the method described above. For some compositions, the d-spacing was also determined by the method described above. For certain compositions, conditioning benefits were also assessed by the following method. These characteristics and evaluation results of the composition are shown in table 1 below.
Wet Condition before rinsing
Wet conditioning before rinsing was assessed according to the friction of hair measured by an instrument called Texture Analyzer (TA XT Plus, Texture Technologies, Scarsdale, NY, USA). 1g of the composition was applied to a 10g hair sample. After spreading the composition on the hair sample and before rinsing it, the friction (g) between the hair sample and the polyurethane pad was determined by the above-described instrument.
A1 or A2: the friction was reduced by more than 5% (excluding 5%) to 10% compared to control 1 or control 2.
B1 or B2: the friction was reduced by up to 5% (including 5%) compared to control 1 or control 2.
C1 or C2: control 1 or 2, or equivalent to control 1 or 2
D1 or D2: the friction was increased compared to control 1 or control 2.
Wet Conditioning after rinsing
The wet conditioning after rinsing was evaluated according to the hair friction force measured by an instrument called Texture analyzer (TA XT Plus, Texture Technologies, Scarsdale, NY, USA). 1g of the composition was applied to a 10g hair sample. After spreading the composition on the hair sample, it was rinsed with warm water for 30 seconds. The friction (g) between the hair sample and the polyurethane pad was then determined by the above instrument.
A1 or A2: the friction was reduced by more than 5% (excluding 5%) to 10% compared to control 1 or control 2.
B1 or B2: the friction was reduced by up to 5% (including 5%) compared to control 1 or control 2.
C1 or C2: control 1 or 2, or equivalent to control 1 or 2
D1 or D2: the friction was increased compared to control 1 or control 2.
Dry conditioning property
Dry conditioning performance was assessed according to hair friction as measured by an instrument called an Instron tester (Instron 5542, Instron, Inc; Canton, Mass., USA). 2g of the composition was applied to a 20g hair sample. After spreading the composition on the hair sample, it was rinsed with warm water for 30 seconds and then the hair sample was allowed to dry overnight. The friction (g) between the hair surface and the polyurethane pad was measured along the hair.
A1 or A2: the friction was reduced by more than 5% (excluding 5%) to 10% compared to control 1 or control 2.
B1 or B2: the friction was reduced by up to 5% (including 5%) compared to control 1 or control 2.
C1 or C2: control 1 or 2, or equivalent to control 1 or 2
D1 or D2: the friction was increased compared to control 1 or control 2.
Product appearance
Upon dispensing 0.4mL of conditioner product from the package, the product appearance was assessed by 6 panelists.
A1 or A2: there were 3 to 6 panelists who answered that the product had a thick product appearance and received a positive impression from its appearance.
B1 or B2: there were 1 to 2 panelists who answered that the product had a thick product appearance and received a positive impression from its appearance.
C1 or C2: control 1 or 2, or equivalent control
TABLE 1
The embodiments disclosed and illustrated by the foregoing "example 1" through "example 4" are hair conditioning compositions of the present invention that are particularly useful for rinse-off applications. Such embodiments have many advantages. For example, they can effectively deliver conditioning benefits to hair, i.e., improved conditioning benefits are obtained from the same amount of active ingredients, such as cationic surfactants and high melting point fatty compounds.
For example, comparison of examples 1-4 with example ii shows that the compositions of the present invention can effectively deliver conditioning benefits to hair compared to the compositions of example ii. The compositions of examples 3 and 2, having the same amount and about 20% less amount of cationic surfactant and high melting point fatty compound, respectively, provide improved conditioning benefits and product appearance compared to the composition of example ii. The compositions of examples 1 and 4 with about 50% less of the amount of cationic surfactant and high melting point fatty compound provide the same or better conditioning benefits as the composition of example ii and the same product appearance. Similarly, a comparison between example 1 and example iiii shows that the compositions of the present invention can effectively deliver conditioning benefits to hair.
For example, a comparison between example 2 and example i shows that the composition of example 2 has improved conditioning benefits compared to the composition of example i having the same amount of cationic surfactant and high melting point fatty compound, and also having a thickening polymer. For example, the compositions of examples 1 and 4 without the thickening polymer have improved rheology and stability, while it has reduced levels of cationic surfactant and high melting point fatty compounds.
The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Rather, unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean both the recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding that value. For example, the disclosed dimension "40 mm" is intended to mean "about 40 mm".
Each document cited herein, including any cross-referenced or related patent or patent application, is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety unless expressly stated otherwise or limited otherwise. The citation of any document is not an admission that it is prior art with respect to any invention disclosed or claimed herein or that it alone, or in any combination with any other reference or references, teaches, suggests or discloses any such invention. Further, to the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this document conflicts with any meaning or definition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to the term in this document shall govern.
While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims all such changes and modifications that are within the scope of this invention.

Claims (11)

1. A hair conditioning composition comprising:
(a) a cationic surfactant which is a salt of stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine with L-glutamic acid;
(b) a high melting point aliphatic compound; and
(c) an aqueous carrier;
wherein the composition has a yield point of at least 5Pa, and the yield point satisfies the following mathematical expression:
Y≥6.0X-28.5
wherein Y is the yield point of the composition and X is the total amount of the cationic surfactant and the high melting point fatty compound (percentages by weight of the composition);
and wherein the composition is substantially free of thickening polymer.
2. The hair conditioning composition of claim 1 wherein the mathematical expression is Y ≧ 6.0X-20.3.
3. The hair conditioning composition of claim 1 wherein the mathematical expression is Y ≧ 6.0X-12.2.
4. The hair conditioning composition of claim 1 wherein the composition has a yield point of at least about 8 Pa.
5. The hair conditioning composition of claim 1 wherein the composition has a yield point of up to about 80 Pa.
6. The hair conditioning composition of claim 1 wherein the composition is substantially free of di-long chain alkyl cationic surfactants.
7. The hair conditioning composition of claim 1 wherein the salt of stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine with L-glutamic acid is present in an amount from about 50% to about 100% of the total amount of cationic surfactant in the composition.
8. The hair conditioning composition of claim 1 wherein the composition is substantially free of anionic surfactants and anionic polymers.
9. The hair conditioning composition of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the cationic surfactant to the high melting point fatty compound is in the range of about 1: 1 to about 1: 4.
10. A method of conditioning hair, the method comprising the steps of:
(i) applying an effective amount of the conditioning composition of claim 1 to hair after shampooing to condition the hair; and is
(ii) The hair is then rinsed.
11. The method of conditioning hair of claim 10, wherein the effective amount is a reduced dose of about 0.3mL to about 0.7mL per 10g of hair.
HK11112563.9A 2008-06-25 2009-06-25 Hair conditioning composition containing a salt of stearyl amidopropyl dimethylamine and l-glutamic acid HK1158128A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US61/133,002 2008-06-25
US61/105,487 2008-10-15

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
HK1158128A true HK1158128A (en) 2012-07-13

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