HK1030165A - Hair conditioners for treating split ends - Google Patents

Description

Hair treatment for treating split ends

The invention relates to hair treatment compositions which are in the form of oil-in-water emulsions and which comprise an active composition which comprises an ester-soluble and a water-soluble split reducing active.

Split ends is a phenomenon that occurs when the hair becomes porous and the hair splits at the tip. Furthermore, split ends are also caused by strong mechanical action on the hair, such as frequent combing, intensive styling or brushing when subjected to strong resistance. High resistance brushing of dry hair can damage the hair surface, generate static electricity, or cause blocking due to hair fat residues. The risk of split ends also increases as the texture is loosened, which can be caused by frequent or infrequent use of chemical treatments, such as in waving or dyeing.

There has been no study to date to repair hair damaged by split, i.e. no methods to prevent further development of split hair and to restore split hair, have been seen with the aid of suitable formulations.

DE 19514268 describes a cosmetic product which contains polyol esters and which, when these are applied to the hair, increases the crack resistance of the hair. However, this document does not relate to the repair of split hair.

DE 3711841A 1 discloses hair-restoring preparations which contain water-soluble active substances for inhibiting split ends, such as panthenol or glucose, if appropriate in combination with polyvinylpyrrolidone.

It is known from DE 4440315A 1 that compositions consisting of panthenol derivatized with cations and mono-or oligo-saccharides and derivatives thereof can have a conditioning effect on split hair.

While the aforementioned compositions reduce the rate of split ends of damaged hair, they are not satisfactory in any way for use in products which require rinsing from the hair after use (so-called rinse-off products), such as shampoos and hair rinses.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide improved hair treatment agents having split healing benefits. This object is achieved according to the invention by a hair treatment having split repair.

The invention relates to a preparation for treating hair in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, characterized in that the active substance used for the split suppression contains:

0.1 to 10% by weight of a fat-soluble ester alcohol or ester polyol as the oil phase, which is obtainable by reacting an epoxidized fatty acid ester with a mono-or polyhydric alkanol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and

from 0.1 to 3% by weight of a known, split-inhibiting, water-soluble compound selected from panthenol, nicotinamide, sugar, polyvinylpyrrolidone or mixtures thereof as the aqueous phase.

As formulations of the invention, they are both "leave-on" products such as hair fixatives, grooming agents, hair care products, and also those which are rinsed from the hair after use, such as shampoos, conditioners, wave fixatives or hair dyes.

Importantly, the formulation contains an emulsified oil phase which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or oil-in-water microemulsion.

Lipid-soluble ester alcohols or ester polyols are products which are known from the literature and are commercially available. As lipid-soluble products, the following facts can be seen: a 5 wt% solution of the product in cetyl alcohol was clear at 80 ℃.

The ester alcohols or ester polyols suitable for use in the present invention can be obtained by reacting an epoxidized fatty acid ester with water or a mono-or polyol having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, wherein the epoxy ring is opened and a vicinal dihydroxyethyl-or hydroxy-alkoxy-ethyl group is formed. The epoxy fatty acid ester may also be an epoxidized product made from an industrial fatty acid ester with a saturated fatty acid component. The oxygen content in the epoxy groups should be at least 3% by weight, preferably 5 to 10% by weight.

The epoxy fatty acid ester is either an epoxidized fatty acid ester of a monohydric alcohol, such as epoxidized methyl oleate, methyl linoleate, methyl ricinoleate or an epoxidized fatty acid ester of a polyhydric alcohol, such as glycerol monooleate or propylene glycol monooleate, or an epoxidized fatty acid triglyceride, such as triglyceride oleate, or an unsaturated oil, such as olive oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil and rapeseed oil.

Of particular industrial interest are, above all, unsaturated fatty acid methyl ester-epoxides prepared from unsaturated vegetable fatty acids. Thus particularly preferred for use as the ester polyol is a conversion product of a vegetable oil fatty acid methyl ester-epoxide and a polyol having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups. As polyols there may be used, for example, ethylene glycol, 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, glycerol, trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sorbitol or diglycerol.

Particularly suitable as ester polyols in the treatment agent according to the invention is a conversion product of vegetable fatty acid methyl ester-epoxide with trimethylpropane, which has a hydroxyl number of 350-450. One such product based on methyl soyate-epoxide and trimethylolpropane is under the product name Sovermol^760 are commercially available.

Another object of the invention is the use of ester polyols obtainable by reacting an ester of an epoxy fatty acid having an oxygen content of at least 3% by weight in its epoxy groups with water or with a mono-or polyol having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said mono-or polyol being used as a split-inhibiting lipid-soluble active ingredient in combination with a water-soluble split-inhibiting compound in an emulsion-like hair treatment.

As known, water-soluble active ingredients which inhibit split ends, mention may be made, for example, of sugars such as mono-and disaccharides. Suitable monosaccharides are, for example, glucose, fructose, mannose, but also deoxy sugars such as fucose or rhamnose. Suitable disaccharides are for example sucrose, cellobiose, lactose or maltose.

Another water-soluble active ingredient which inhibits split ends is nicotinic acid amide, preferably in an amount of from 0.01 to 1% by weight. Nicotinic acid amide, also known as vitamin B3, has been reported to be used as a topical deodorant, and also as an active ingredient for the treatment of topical alopecia. However, no report has been made to the effect of suppressing split ends of hair by applying it to hair.

Also known as water-soluble, split-preventing active ingredients are panthenol and derivatives thereof, e.g. cationically derivatized pantoquats^(CTFA: pantothenyl-hydroxypropyl-stearyldiammonium chloride) and polyvinylpyrrolidone. These water-soluble compounds will preferably be used in combination. Preferably, the hair treatment agent of the present invention contains 1 to 2% by weight of sugar and 0.1 to 1% by weight of panthenol.

It is also preferred to employ a combination of panthenol and nicotinic acid amide as water-soluble active ingredients in the formulations of the present invention. The weight ratio of the two water-soluble split actives may be between 1: 1 and 10: 1.

The hair treatment compositions according to the invention may furthermore contain all customary auxiliaries and carrier ingredients which are required for various applications.

They are firstly the oil-or fat component and the emulsifier required for the preparation of the emulsion-like preparations.

As oil-or fat constituents, use may be made of the usual paraffin or paraffin oils, natural or synthetic fatty acid esters, silicone oils, fatty alcohols or di-n-alkylethers. Particularly preferred fatty components for use in the hair treatment agent are fatty alcohols having 14 to 22C atoms, especially cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. However, fatty acid esters such as isopropyl myristate, n-hexyl laurate or n-decyl oleate, synthetic triglycerides such as decanoyl/capric acid triglyceride, or natural triglycerides such as refined vegetable oils are also used for this purpose.

For the preparation of microemulsions, suitable oil components are preferably di-n-alkyl ethers such as di-n-octyl ether.

As emulsifiers it is possible to use anionic, zwitterionic, cationic or nonionic surface-active compounds. Cationic actives have the advantage that they can eliminate static electricity from hair and in this way improve combability and produce a split reduction effect.

It is also known that cationic surfactants are suitable for preparing fatty alcohol dispersions having very low viscosity, and for this purpose it is sufficient to have 0.1 to 1% by weight of cationic quaternary ammonium surfactants in order to stabilize a dispersion containing 10 to 25% by weight of cetyl or stearyl alcohol.

Preferred as the alcohol component are naphtha, fatty alcohol and optionally fatty acid ester. In most cases, mixtures of cationic and nonionic surface-active compounds can also be used as emulsifiers in these cases. Suitable cationic surface-active substances are, for example, cetyl-trimethylammonium chloride or bis-stearoyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methyl-ammonium methosulfate. As nonionic emulsifiers it is possible to use, for example, from 10 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide in C_16-22-addition products on fatty alcohols, on fatty acid monoglycerides, on sorbitan fatty acid monoesters or on methyl glucoside fatty acid monoesters. Other suitable nonionic emulsifiers are, for example, polyglycerol esters of fatty acids and mixtures thereof with methyl glucose-fatty acid esters or alkyl- (oligo) -glucosides. The latter are particularly preferred for use in the preparation of oil-in-water microemulsions.

As the oil-soluble co-emulsifier, for example, fatty acid mono-or diglycerides, sorbitan fatty acid esters or propylene glycol mono fatty acid esters are used.

For the purpose of adjusting the viscosity, for example thickening, other known water-soluble polymers or cellulose derivatives for this purpose can also be used, wherein anionic polymers should not be used in combination with cationic surfactants, since they may lead to interactions. Preferably, it is suitable to use nonionic polymeric thickeners such as methylhydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl guar, polyvinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl starch.

Other auxiliaries which can be used in the hair treatment according to the invention for achieving other specific hair cosmetic effects are, for example:

shaping agents such as maleic acid

Polymers for increasing the hardness

Compounds for hair styling, for example phospholipids such as soya lecithin, cephalins,

Silicone oil, protein or protein hydrolysate, cationic water-soluble

Polymerization products, quaternized protein hydrolysates, plant extracts, allantoin,

Pyrrolidone carboxylate, vitamin

Anti-desquamation active principles such as zinc Omadine (Zink Omadine), piroctone

Oleylamine (Piroctone alcohol), salicylic acid and others for the treatment of bran

Active antifungal substance of trichophyton

Photoprotectors (UV-absorbing substances)

Hair colouring substances or dye precursor products

Oxidizing agents for wave shaping, such as alkali metal bromides, hydrogen peroxide.

In addition, usual carrier substances and formulation auxiliaries, which are necessary for stabilization, adjustment of viscosity, appearance, odor and ease of use, for example:

solvents and dissolution aids, e.g. lower alcohols, glycols, glycerol, diethylene glycol,

Polyethylene glycol

Dyes, opacifiers and pearlescers

pH-adjusting agents and buffer substances, e.g. tartaric acid/tartrate

Complex formers, e.g. acetyl phosphate, EDTA or NTA

Preservative substances, such as phenoxyethanol, p-hydroxybenzoic acid

-a fragrance substance

-an antioxidant, and

-aerosol-driving gas.

The following examples serve to explain the invention in detail:

examples

The following formulation (table I) was prepared:

TABLE I

Composition of	1	2	V1
				Sovermol760(1)	0.5	0.25	-
Naphtha, dilute stream	3.5	3.5	3.5
				Cetyl/stearyl alcohol	4.8	4.8	4.8
DehyquartF75(2)	0.35	0.35	0.35
				Cutina GMS(3)	0.3	0.3	0.3
Tego Care 450(4)	0.4	0.4	0.4
				PHB-propyl ester	0.2	0.2	0.2
PHB-methyl ester	0.2	0.2	0.2
				Phenoxyethanol	-	0.5	0.5
Dehyquart A-CA(5)	3.0	3.0	3.0
				Glucose monohydrate	2.0	2.0	2.0
d-panthenol	-	0.25	0.5
				Nicotinic acid amides	-	0.1	-
Culminal MHPC 3000(6)	0.6	0.6	0.6
				Sesame oil	0.25	0.25	0.25
Water (W)	To 100 of	To 100 of	To 100 of
				pH value	3.5	4.25	3.7
Viscosity [ Pa.S ]]，20℃(Brookfield，Spindel 5，4Upm	54	53	30
				Crackle repair (%) R (corrected)	20	41	14.3

The following commercial products were used:

(1)Sovermol^760: reaction product of methyl soyate-epoxide with 1 mole of trimethylolpropane (oxygen per mole of epoxy group)

(2)Dehyquart^F75: a mixture of about 70% stearyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate and about 30% cetyl alcohol (ceteary-Alkohol)

(3)Cutina^GMS: glycerol- (mono/di) stearate/palmitate

About 45% of the monoglyceride is present,

about 40% of a diglyceride,

about 10% of a triglyceride,

about 2% glycerol

(4) Tego Care 450: polyglycerol (3)/methylglucose distearate

(5) Dehyquart A-CA: cetyl-trimethyl ammonium chloride

(6)Culminal^MHPL 3000: methyl-hydroxypropyl cellulose (viscosity: 2% in water (20 ℃ C.))About 3Pa · S). Preparation:

the oil phase components (Sovermol 760, naphtha, cetyl-/stearyl alcohol, Dehyquartz F75, Cutina GMS, Tego Care 450, PHB ester and phenoxyethanol) were slowly heated to 80 ℃. About 60% of the water, with Dehyquartz A-CA dissolved therein and also heated to 80 ℃, was emulsified in the melt with stirring. Then a solution of glucose monohydrate, optionally panthenol and nicotinic acid amide in about 20% water, and a Culminal MHPC source in the remaining water are added to the emulsion at 40℃ and mixed well with stirring. The emulsion was stirred further to 30 ℃.

After storage at 20 ℃ for 20 hours, the pH and viscosity were determined. Checking and repairing split ends:

hair tresses, which had been heavily split by mechanical and electrostatic pre-treatment (dry combing), were treated with undiluted formulations prepared according to examples 1, 2 and V1 for 15 minutes, then rinsed with tap water (16 ℃ hardness) and dried. The split (So) before and after treatment was determined by number, and the repair was determined as follows:

since the repair found in this way with pure water is 30%, the split-repair of the experimental products is corrected as follows:

obtained split-repair value R_(correction)Given in table I.

Claims (4)

1. A formulation for treating hair in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising as split reducing agents: 0.1-10 wt.% of a fat-soluble ester alcohol or ester polyol as the oil phase

A component which can be prepared by reacting an epoxy fatty acid ester with water

Or a mono-or poly-one having 1 to 10C atoms

Obtained by reacting a polyhydric alcohol, and 0.1 to 3% by weight of a known water-soluble substance having a hair split-reducing effect

The water phase component is selected from panthenol and tobacco

Acid amides, sugars, polyvinylpyrrolidones, or mixtures thereof

And (3) mixing.

2. A formulation according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises as ester polyol the reaction product of a vegetable fatty acid methyl ester-epoxide and a polyol having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups.

3. Preparation according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it contains a reaction product from the reaction of vegetable fatty acid methyl ester-epoxide with trimethylolpropane, which has 350-450 hydroxyl groups.

4. A preparation according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains panthenol and nicotinic acid amide as water-soluble active ingredients.