HK1030164A - Extract and cosmetic preparation - Google Patents

Description

Extract and cosmetic formulation

The invention relates to particular Lawsonia inermis extracts and their use as cosmetic active substances and corresponding skin and hair treatment formulations.

The treatment of human hair currently can be carried out in a variety of ways, using cosmetic formulations. Among them are washing hair with shampoos, caring for and regenerating hair with hair-dressing agents and conditioners, and bleaching, dyeing and shaping hair with permanent wave agents, tints and formers. Previously, the formulation of agents was particularly predominant in terms of product properties, and the aim now is to use such agents simultaneously for conditioning and care purposes, and for the regeneration of damaged hair or even for the preventive protection of hair against damage.

A range of care and conditioning actives are known to experts, however there continues to be a need for new actives. Of particular interest for this are natural, in particular novel active substances of plant origin, which have a particularly high acceptance in the consumer.

It has long been known to dye with henna, especially for dyeing human hair. It has been noted in the early days that not only hair coloring but also improved hand and increased gloss can be achieved by applying a henna formulation, usually as an aqueous suspension in the form of a colour paste. The care effect is kept limited to the range of the color development for a long time on the basis of the deep dyeing action of the known lawsonia former. To overcome the above limitations, a series of proposals have recently emerged. There have been special attempts to provide extracts which are as colorless as possible and which nevertheless exhibit the corresponding conditioning effect of lawsonia inermis. Relevant reports are typically found in D.Kenney, published in Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol 96(Juni 1980), pages 44-51.

The known Lawsonia inermis extracts have not yet met the requirements set forth. These aqueous or aqueous/alcoholic extracts also have a pronounced colour. This leads on the one hand to an undesirable coloration of the hair, which makes color adjustment of products containing such extracts particularly difficult or makes it virtually impossible in the case of colorless, transparent products. However, the main disadvantage of these extracts is that their conditioning and care effect is far less than that of the application of henna itself.

It has now surprisingly been found that by extracting a specific part of a certain type of henna with a selected solvent, a colorless or only slightly yellowish extract is obtained, which in the same amount of use results in a much higher efficacy of conditioning and caring for the skin and hair than the known henna extracts.

The first subject of the invention is an extract obtained by extraction from the leaves, petioles and/or branches of senna or plant of the genus lawsonia with an organic solvent, the dielectric constant of which at 20 ℃ is 2.5 or less than 2.5.

It has been shown that senna and lawsonia plants are particularly suitable as plants for producing the extract. The extract of Lawsonia inermis is of particular interest with particularly strong effect.

Although it has been demonstrated that leaves, petioles and branches of the listed plants can be used as raw materials, it is preferable to extract from the ground leaves of these plants.

The solvent used for the extraction is allowed to have only a small polarity in order to obtain the extract according to the invention. All solvents having a dielectric constant of 2.5 or less at 20 ℃ are suitable. As regards the dielectric constant of the solvent, the skilled worker can cite from familiar references, such as CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics, among others.

Preferred solvents according to the invention are those which dissolve in water in an amount of less than 1 wt.% at 20 ℃.

Particularly preferred solvents within the context of the present invention are cyclohexane, carbon tetrachloride, benzene, n-hexane and n-pentane. Extracts produced using cyclohexane as a solvent have proven particularly effective.

The extraction process is usually carried out at atmospheric pressure. However, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the extract can also be produced in the supercritical state using a solvent. In this case, n-pentane can preferably be used as solvent.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extract is free of colouring components. In the context of the present invention, an extract satisfying the following conditions can be regarded as "non-staining component". ● the extract itself is not visible to the naked eye or is only slightly yellowish in color. ● the extract has no visible color when applied to skin or hair. ● and other dyes contained in the product that cause a visible color change do not interact.

According to the invention, the active substance/solvent mixture obtained during the extraction process is strongly concentrated by removing, e.g. evaporating off, most of the solvent, so that the resulting extract preferably contains less than 5 wt.% of the initial solvent relative to the total extract. Particularly preferred extracts are those which no longer contain measurable amounts of the original solvent components.

The invention also relates to the use of the above extract as a cosmetic active substance.

A third subject of the invention is a formulation for treating human skin and hair comprising the above-mentioned extract.

The kind of the hair treatment agent is not limited in principle. It is, for example, a detergent, such as a shampoo; conditioning agents, such as hair conditioners and hair rinses; hair fixatives such as hair setting lotions, hair sprays and hair gels; permanent-wave agents, such as permanent waving agents and setting agents; direct dyes, shampoos and hair sprays based on coloring agents, such as gold dyes, oxidation dyes and toners. The formulation is suitably formulated in the form of a solution, suspension, gel, emulsion, aerosol or lotion.

Hair conditioners on the one hand and hair dyes on the other hand are preferred hair treatment agents within the scope of the invention.

The formulation according to the invention contains an extract according to claim 1 as an essential component. Reference is made to the above for preferred embodiments of such components.

According to a first embodiment, the formulation according to the invention consists only of the lawsonia inermis extract or contains only preservatives and/or fragrances as further constituents, in an amount of less than 1 wt.% of the total formulation.

According to a second embodiment, the formulation according to the invention contains such an extract in an amount of 0.05 to 99 wt.%, in particular 0.1 to 10 wt.%, based on the active substance content of the extract and the total formulation.

The hair treatment agent according to the present invention further contains preferably at least one surfactant. Both anionic and nonionic, cationic, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants can be used, it being possible for at least one anionic surfactant on the one hand and at least one cationic or nonionic surfactant on the other hand to be used in preference.

Surfactants which can be used according to the invention are, for example: anionic surfactants, such as, in particular, soaps of fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids, the alkyl radical of which contains from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and may contain up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, and mono-or dialkyl sulfosuccinates having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical, and also monoalkyl polyoxyethyl sulfosuccinates having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and from 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, nonionic surfactants, such as, in particular, from 2 to 30mol of ethylene oxide and/or from 0 to 5mol of propylene oxide, for exampleC of an adduct of an alkane with a linear fatty alcohol having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, a fatty acid having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and an alkylphenol having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, an adduct of 1 to 30mol of ethylene oxide and glycerol₁₂-C₂₂Fatty acid mono-and diesters, C₈-C₂₂Alkyl mono-and oligoglycosides and their hydroxyethylated analogues and adducts of 5 to 60mol ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil, zwitterionic surfactants, in particular the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline, having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylcarboxymethylglycinate, amphoteric surfactants, such as N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, n-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkylaminoethanesulfonic acid, N-alkylsarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid, wherein the alkyl groups all contain from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, such as ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium ether sulfate and the imidazolium salt compounds known under the INCI designation as Quaternary ammonium-27 and Quaternary ammonium-28. Also useful as cationic surfactants are alkylamidoamines, for example, known under the name Tegoamid^Commercially available stearamidopropyldimethylamine of S18 and the so-called esterquats, for example, under the name Armocare^VGH-70 is commercially available as N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride.

Depending on the kind of reagents and surfactant types, the surfactant content in the reagent according to the invention may be 0.5-25 wt.% of the total reagent, and higher surfactant contents may also be present in reagents formulated as so-called concentrates.

In addition, the preferred formulation according to the invention also contains a fat.

Preferred fats are straight-chain and branched, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols or mixtures of natural fatty alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain, such as decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, octanol, decyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and their Guerbet alcohol and fatty alcohol fractions, which are prepared from naturally occurring triglycerides, such as tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil, or from fatty acid esters which are formed by transesterification with the corresponding alcohol esters, and are therefore mixtures of different fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols are generally used in amounts of 0.01 to 15 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.3 to 6 wt.% of the total formulation. However, for special formulations, the amount of fat may also be up to 90 wt.%.

Also useful as fats are monoesters of fatty acids and alcohols containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and triglycerides of natural origin.

The hair treatment compositions according to the invention may also preferably contain conditioning actives selected from the group consisting of cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, alkylamidoamines, paraffin oils, vegetable oils and synthetic oils.

Cationic polymers are preferred as conditioning actives. They are generally polymers containing one atom, for example a quaternized nitrogen atom in the form of ammonium groups.

Preferred cationic polymers are, for example: quaternary cellulosic derivatives, for example under the name Celquat^And Polymer JR^Are commercially available. Compound Celquat^H100，Celquat^L200 and Polymer JR^400 is a preferred quaternized cellulose derivative. Polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The product name is Merquat^100 (poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat^550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers. Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoacrylates and methacrylates, for example, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminomethacrylate quaternized with diethylsulfate. These compounds may be given the name Gafquat^734 and Gafquat^755 is commercially available. Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and N-methylimidazolium chloride, which may be designated, for example, as Luviquat^Provided is a method. -quaternized polyvinyl alcohols, and the following names: Polyquaternium-2-Polyquaternium-17-Polyquaternium-18 and-Polyquaternium-27 are well known polymers containing quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer backbone.

The cationic polymers listed in the first four groups are particularly preferred.

Also suitable as conditioning actives are silicone oils, especially dialkyl and alkylaryl silicones, such as dimethyl polysiloxane and methylphenyl polysiloxane, and their alkoxylated and quaternized analogs. Examples of such silicones are sold under the brand names DC190, DC200, DC344, DC345 and DC1401 by the Dow Corning company and the product sold by the company sold under the brand name DC190, DC200, DC344, DC345 and DC1401, and the product sold under the brand name Q₂7224 (Producer: Dow Corning; stabilized trimethylsilyl lamodimethicone), Dow Corning  929 emulsion (containing hydroxy-amino-stabilized silicone, known as Amodimethicone), SM-2059 (Producer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (Producer: Wacker), and also Abil^Quat 3270 and 3272 (producers: Th. Golddsthmmidt: diquaternized polydimethylsiloxane, Quaternium-80).

Also useful as conditioning actives are paraffin oils and vegetable oils, such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach kernel oil.

Also suitable are hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalin.

The formulations according to the invention as hair dyes or hair tints may contain at least one primary intermediate-type oxidation dye precursor, possibly in combination with a secondary intermediate-type oxidation dye precursor and/or a direct dye.

Preferred primary intermediate components according to the invention are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1- (2' -hydroxyethyl) -2, 5-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2, 5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1-phenyl-3-carboxyamido-4-amino-5-pyrazolone, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-methylamino-4-aminophenol, 2, 4, 5, 6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4, 5, 6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2, 5, 6-triaminopyrimidine, 2, 4-dihydroxy-5, 6-diaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4, 5, 6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxyethylaminomethyl-4-aminophenol and 4, 4' -diaminodiphenylamine.

Preferred secondary intermediate components according to the invention are 1-naphthol, pyrogallol, 1, 5-, 2, 7-and 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, o-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, m-cresol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, m-phenylenediamine, 1-phenyl-3-methyl-5-pyrazolone, 2, 4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 1, 3-bis (2, 4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2, 5-dimethylresorcinol, 2, 6-dihydroxypyridine, 2, 6-diaminopyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2, 6-dihydroxy-3, 4-diaminopyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 2, 6-bis (2-hydroxyethylamino) toluene, 2, 4-diaminophenylaminoethanol, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole.

Typically, the primary intermediate component and the secondary intermediate component are used in about molar relationship to each other. If molar use amounts have also proven to be suitable, a certain excess of the individual oxidation dye precursors is not detrimental, so that the colorant can contain the primary and secondary intermediate components in a molar ratio of preferably 1: 0.5 to 1: 2. Typically, the total amount of oxidative dye precursors is up to 20 wt.% of the total reagent.

Direct dyes are usually referred to as nitrophenylenediamine, nitroaminophenol, anthraquinone or indophenol. Preferred direct dyes are the well known compounds known under the international names HC yellow 2, HC yellow 4, HC yellow 6, alkali yellow-57, disperse orange-3, HC red BN, alkali red-76, HC blue-2, disperse blue-3, alkali blue-99, HC violet-1, disperse violet-4, disperse black-9, alkali brown-16 and alkali brown-17, as well as 4-amino-2-nitro diphenylamine-2' -carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1, 2, 3, 4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl-2-nitrotoluidine, picloram, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol and 4-N-ethyl-1 hydrochloride, 4-bis (2' -hydroxyethylamino) -2-nitrophenol. According to this embodiment of the invention, the reagent contains preferably 0.01 to 20 wt.% of direct dye based on the total dye reagent.

Furthermore, the formulations according to the invention may also contain naturally occurring dyes, for example henna, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, logwood, madder root, catechu, Sedre and callicarpa root.

It is not required that the resulting oxidation dye precursor or direct dye be the same each time. In many cases, the hair colorants according to the invention also contain minor amounts of other components, depending on the method of production of the individual dyes, as long as they do not adversely affect the coloring result or are excluded for other reasons, for example toxicological reasons.

Further details of the dyes which can be used in the hair dyes and toners according to the invention can be found in the monograph of ch. Chapter seventh (248-; 250: direct dye) and Chapter eighth (264-; 267: oxidation dye precursor) of The Science of Hair Care, published on The "dermatological" series of papers, book 7 (publishers: Ch. Culnan and H. Maibach), Marcel Dekker Inc. publishers, New York, Basel, 1986, and also "European cosmetic-raw materials catalog" publisher, Europ. Ischen Gemeinschaft, available from discs of Bundsverband Deutscher Industrie-und Handdelsunternetherhmen fur Zerniittel, Reformware und K * rperflies.

The pH of the formulations according to the invention is in principle between 2 and 11, for which the skilled worker knows the preferred pH range for the different reagents. The pH of the agent according to the invention, if a hair conditioner is concerned, is preferably from 2 to 7, with a value of from 3 to 5 being particularly preferred. For adjusting the pH, it can be accomplished by using virtually every acid which can be used in cosmetics. Edible acids are commonly used. Edible acids are acids which are absorbed in the normal range of food intake and have a positive effect on the human body. Examples of edible acids are acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. The use of citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred within the scope of the present invention. Hair colorants are preferably prepared at a pH in the range of about 7-11.

Other general constituents of the formulation according to the invention may be: anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and cationic polymers, for example vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, polydimethylsiloxanes, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, polyacrylic acids which are uncrosslinked and crosslinked with polyols, acryloylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide/methyl methacrylate/tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam terpolymers and possibly derivatized A cellulose ether. Symmetrical and asymmetrical, straight-chain and branched dialkyl ethers containing a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, e.g. di (n-octyl) ether, di (n-decyl) etherAlkyl) ethers, di (n-nonyl) ether, di (n-undecyl) ether, di (n-dodecyl) ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether and also di (tert-butyl) ether, di (isopentyl) ether, di (3-ethyldecyl) ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, isopentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl-n-octyl ether, quaternary amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolium methosulfate, antifoams such as silicones, thickeners such as agar, guar, alginates, xanthan, gelatin, pectin, hydroxyethylcellulose and also polyacrylamides and copolymers thereof. Structural regulators, such as maleic acid, mono-, di-and oligosaccharides, perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins. -solubilizers, such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, -dyes for dyeing the reagents, -antidandruff active substances, such as Piroctone Olamine, Omadine zinc and Climbazol, -other substances which adjust the pH value, -animal and vegetable protein hydrolysates, in particular elastin-, collagen-, keratin-, milk protein-, soy protein-, almond protein-and wheat protein hydrolysates and their fatty acid condensates and quaternized derivatives, -vitamins and vitamin precursors, such as panthenol and its derivatives and vitamin H, -plant and honey extracts, such as extracts of, in particular, the following substances; small egg shell, nettle, witch hazel, hops, matricaria, burdock root, wood base, linden flower, almond, aloe Vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, chirethou, melon, orange, grape, sage, rosemary, birch, and meadow cardamine. Thymus genus. Yarrow, formononea, meristematic, ginseng and zingiber, -other active substances, such as ceramides, allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and bisabolol, -light protection agents, -consistency agents, such as sugars, esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers, -fats and waxes, such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffin oil, -fatty acid alkanolamides, -swelling and penetrating agents, such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphatesClouding agents, such as latexes, styrene/PVP copolymers and styrene/acrylamide copolymers, pearlizing agents, such as ethylene glycol mono-and distearate and PEG-3-distearate, complexing agents, such as EDTA, NTA, beta-alanine diacetic acid and phosphonic acid, reducing agents, such as thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cystamine, thiomalic acid and alpha-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid, oxidizing agents, such as hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate and sodium bromate, foaming agents, such as propane-butane mixtures, N₂O, dimethyl ether, CO₂，N₂Air and-antioxidants.

For further components and also the amounts of the individual contents, reference is made to handbooks familiar to the expert, for example Grundling und Rezepturen der Kosmetika from K.Schrader, 2 nd edition, Huthig Buch Press, Heidelberg, 1989.

Examples

All amounts given in the examples are parts by weight unless otherwise indicated. 1. Production of extract 1.1 leaves of dyed Lawsonia inermis (Lawsonia inermis) produced in India

200g of dry powdery Lawsonia inermis leaves are extracted for 24 hours with 4l of cyclohexane in a Soxhlet extractor. The resulting solution was filtered and rotary evaporated under water spray vacuum until concentrated to no solvent. The extract was a slightly yellowish oil. The yield was 7.3% of the dry plant material used. 1.2 leaf and bark fractions from neutral Lawsonia inermis (Cassia auriculata)

200g of dried and crushed leaves and bark were extracted in a Soxhlet extractor with 4l of cyclohexane for 24 hours. The resulting solution was filtered and rotary evaporated under water spray vacuum until concentrated to no solvent. The extract was colorless oil. The yield was 6.5% of the dry plant material used. 2. Method for measuring Wet combability 2.1 Targeted breakage of Hair strands

A dry strand of hair weighing about 2g (Fischbach and Miller, type 6923) was dyed for half an hour with 32 g/time of a golden dye (commercially available from Poly Blond Medium Aufheller). After washing off the golden dye mixture, the mixture was directly treated with a commercial product Poly LockNormal without intermediate drying with a hair dryer. The action time of the corrugating component and the setting component was 30 or 15 minutes respectively. After rinsing the styling component, the tresses were dried and conditioned under ambient conditions for at least two days. 2.2 combing Property measurement

Rinsed tresses were measured with 0.2ml of 50% Texapon^An aqueous solution of N25 (28% aqueous sodium lauryl ether sulfate) was washed extensively and finally rinsed. 1g of the preparation to be tested is then applied uniformly to the hair. The product to be rinsed was left on the hair for one minute and then carefully rinsed. After application (for the product retained on the hair) or rinsing (for the product to be rinsed), the hair was combed with a hard rubber comb containing high purity zinc and the combing resistance was subjectively evaluated. Finally, the same tresses of the comparative formulation were evaluated in the same way. This evaluation gave a corresponding evaluation system, 1 representing very good and 5 representing very poor. 3. Application example 3.1 Hair conditioner/Hair gloss lotion (retained in the Hair)

B1a B1b

Lawsonia inermis extract (as in example 1.1) 0.5-

Lawsonia inermis extract (as in example 1.2) -0.5

Water 50.050.0

Ethanol 49.549.5

Wet combing property 13

In both cases the hair was soft, shiny and combed well after drying. And also less electrostatic charge loading than was the case prior to the original reagent application. 3.2 anionic rinsing

B2a B2b B2c V2

Stearyl alcohol 8888

Texapon^N28′ 15 15 15 15

Lawsonia inermis extract 1- -

(according to example 1.1)

Lawsonia inermis extract-13-

(according to example 1.2)

Water 76767477

Evaluation of Wet combability 3414-5

¹Sodium lauryl ether sulphate (about 28% active; INCI nomenclature: Sodium Laurethsufate) (HENKEL)

The evaluation of the B2c rinse corresponds to the evaluation of a formulation containing a quaternary ammonium compound in general. 3.3 rinsing based on Natural raw materials

B3 V3

Phospholipon^25P² 2 2

Lawsonia inermis extract 2-

(according to example 1.1)

Guar gum core powder 11

Water 9795

Wet combability evaluation 12

²Deoiled soybean lecithin (Rhone-Poulenc)3.4 for dyeing hair

B4 V4

Texapon^N28 10.0 10.0

C_12-18Fatty alcohol blend 3.53.5

Lawsonia inermis extract (as in example 1.1) 2.0-

HC blue No. 20.050.05

Violet-1.4D 0.050.06

HC yellow-20.060.06

6-nitro-1, 2, 3, 4-tetrahydroquinoxaline 0.020.02

Arianor Siennabraun 0.05 0.05

2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol < … to pH8.0 … >

Water < … to 100 … >

Hue on light yellow hair tresses < … honey blond … >

Wet combing evaluation 34-53.5 emollient Wash/shower

B5a B5B V5a V5B coconut fatty alcohol 3.03.04.05.0 Texapon^N2830.025.025.030.0 Lawsonia inermis extract (as in example 1.1) 2.01.0- -sodium stearate 3.0- -3.0 Water 62.071.07 l.062.0 Wet combing evaluation 34-5

Formulation B5a left a noticeable perceived conditioning effect after showering compared to formulation V5B. 3.6 skin Care solution

Lanette^N³ 8.0

Cetiol^OE⁴ 2.0

Lawsonia inermis extract 2.0

(according to example 1.1)

Eutanol^G⁵ 4.0

Proper amount of preservative

Water to 100

The lotion distributes well on the skin giving an acceptable soft feel to the skin.

³Cetyl stearyl Alcohol-fatty Alcohol Sulfate mixture 90: 10(INCI nomenclature: Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Ceteareth Sulfate) (HENKEL)

⁴Dioctyl ether (INCI name: Dicaprylether) (HENKEL)

⁵2-Octyldodecanol (INCI name: Octyldodecanol) (HENKEL)

Claims (15)

1. The extract can be obtained by extracting leaves, petioles and/or branches of herba Cassiae Mimosoidis or Lawsonia plant with organic solvent, and has dielectric constant of 2.5 or below at 20 deg.C.

2. The extract according to claim 1, characterized in that the plant is selected from the group consisting of Lawsonia inermis and Lavandula angustifolia.

3. The extract according to claim 2, characterized in that the plant is Lawsonia inermis.

4. An extract according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the extract is obtained by extraction of ground leaves.

5. Extract according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the organic solvent has a solubility in water of less than 1 wt.% at 20 ℃.

6. Extract according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the organic solvent is selected from the group consisting of cyclohexane, carbon tetrachloride, benzene, n-hexane and n-pentane.

7. An extract according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the solvent is cyclohexane.

8. An extract according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the solvent is n-pentane.

9. An extract according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the extract has no staining moieties.

10. Use of an extract according to one of claims 1 to 9 as cosmetic active substance.

11. Formulation for treating human skin or hair, characterized in that the formulation contains an extract according to one of claims 1 to 9.

12. A formulation according to claim 11, characterized in that it is a hair treatment, in particular a hair conditioner or hair dye.

13. A formulation according to claim 11, characterized in that it is a skin treatment agent.

14. A formulation according to any one of claims 11 to 13, characterized in that it further comprises a surfactant.

15. A formulation according to any one of claims 11 to 14, characterized in that it further comprises fat.