HK1002444B - Textile reinforcing layer for collar - Google Patents

Description

The invention relates to a textile support for strengthening a fabric, fabric or garment; the application of such a textile support for strengthening a shirt collar and, finally, a process for making such a collar.

We already know about shirt collars with a triple.

For example, reference may be made to documents FR-A-2.570.577 and FR-A-2.609.873.

Traditionally, triplures or reinforcing pieces for shirt collars are made either of woven material, e.g. polyester, or of non-woven material.

However, the disadvantage of current shirt collars is that the dimensional stability of the collar cannot be perfectly ensured over time, since, in the course of successive washings of the shirt and therefore of the collar, the stabilization provided by the triple collar reinforcement deteriorates, which leads to a change in the neck girth, which is particularly inconvenient.

The state of the art is also known for reinforcing parts for the localized stiffening of textiles (see FR-A-2.531.616), thermo-adhesive triplets (see FR-A-2.462.456), and finally thermo-adhesive knit-outlines in the form of braided meshes (see FR-A-2.710.078).

A shirt collar with two strips of fabric with different extensibility properties on the inner side is also known from document FR-A-680742.

The problem underlying the invention is to stabilize a shirt collar dimensionally by regular maintenance of this garment including successive washing and ironing.

For this purpose, the invention implements a reinforcing textile support in the form of a braided knitted mesh comprising an insertion of reinforcement and stabilizing threads extending in the direction of the weft between the rows of meshes.

Other characteristics include that the reinforcement and stabilization wires are straight without any ripple stresses and are thermally stabilized.

Such reinforcing textile support may also include a non-woven fabric insert.

The reinforcing textile support may also contain a sticky or thermo-adhesive material for its subsequent association with the fabric.

Strengthening and stabilizing yarns are made from synthetic fibres or filaments, the density and titration of which are determined by the desired weight and/or stiffness and volume (thickness).

In another respect, the invention is intended to apply such a reinforcing textile support to a shirt collar, the dimensional stability being improved particularly and mainly in its broad direction, i.e. the neckline.

In another respect, the invention relates to a shirt collar which has, in conjunction with it, a reinforcing textile support as described above.

The reinforcing textile support either functions as a triplet itself or as a triplet reinforcement itself associated with the neck part or parts.

This reinforcing textile support shall be covered with a glue or thermo-adhesive material for its attachment to the neck or tripod.

Such a triplet is made of cotton or equivalent.

The reinforcement and stabilization threads of the reinforcing textile support are arranged in the direction of the neck, i.e. the neck turn.

A collar as described above may consist of two pieces of fabric, one above and one below, joined together and between which the reinforcing textile support is inserted.

According to a final aspect of the invention, a method is proposed for making a neck as described which includes a step of attaching a reinforcing textile support as described to the neck fabric or pieces. Depending on the embodiments considered, the reinforcing textile support is attached to the neck fabric or pieces only, or to a triplet.

The other features and advantages of the invention will be described below by reference to the attached drawings in which: Figure 1 is a schematic view, in elevation, of a reinforcing textile support according to the invention; Figures 2 and 3 are two schematic views, in elevation, on a flat surface, of a collar of a shirt, blouse or equivalent piece including a reinforcing textile support according to the invention; Figure 4 is a cut-out view, partial according to line IV-IV of Figure 2.

The reinforcement textile support 1 according to the invention is in the form of a knitted mesh 2 comprising reinforcement and stabilization threads 3 extending in the direction of the weft between the rows of meshes of the knitted mesh 2.

The knitted or crocheted knitwear is known in itself and therefore need not be described further here.

Strengthening and stabilising wires 3 are placed in each gap between two rows of adjacent meshes.

The reinforcement and stabilisation wires 3 are arranged in a regular manner.

In order to perform their functions of strengthening and especially stabilizing, wires 3 are arranged in a straight line and even perfectly straight and are free of undulation stresses.

This characteristic is obtained by the fact that the threads 3 do not participate in the meshes themselves and are not conformed by the crossing of the threads chain and weft of knitting 2.

To enhance the stabilizing qualities, the 3 wires themselves are thermally stabilized, preferably without the addition of synthetic or chemical stabilizing resin.

For example, threads are made of synthetic fibres or filaments.

Their density and titration are determined by the desired weight and/or stiffness and volume (thickness).

The dimensional stability of the threads 3 in the direction of their length results in the stability of the textile backing 1 in the direction of the loom.

Depending on the other possible embodiment, the support 1 shall contain a sticky or thermo-adhesive material 5 for the subsequent combination of the support 1 with the fabric or part 4 or, if necessary, an additional support such as a triplet.

Depending on the intended application, the adhesive or thermo-adhesive material 5 is arranged on one or both sides of the textile backing 1 only.

Processes for the application of a sticky or thermo-adhesive material to a textile substrate are known in themselves and therefore need not be described further here.

Another possible implementation is that support 1 also includes a nonwoven sheet inserted, which gives the fabric or piece 4 a certain volume.

A support 1 as described above is specially designed for a shirt collar 4 and has the function of improving the dimensional stability of this garment over time as a result of its washing, successive ironing.

The piece 4 in question is a shirt collar or any other similar piece. The dimensional stability sought and more particularly that in the broad direction of this piece, referred to as D in Figures 2 and 3, i.e. in this case the neck turn.

The search for or improvement of such dimensional stability is particularly necessary in the case of collars 4 which, because of their construction or the raw materials used, would have, without a support such as 1, poor dimensional stability.

Where, by construction or by reason of the raw materials used, column 4 already has good dimensional stability, this is further strengthened.

Column 4 consists of two parts, above 6 and below 7 respectively, connected to each other and between which the textile support 1 is inserted.

The pieces 6, 7 are cut to form a piece 8 called a collar foot, which is intended to be joined by being attached to the main part of the garment, and a flap 9.

The two pieces 6, 7 are joined together by sewing at the periphery or by thermocollage.

To ensure its stabilisation function, the support 1 is placed on part 4 with the wires 3 in the direction to be stabilised, in this case direction D, which corresponds to the neck turn.

In one possible embodiment, the support 1 has a triple function (Figure 2). In this case the support 1 has a coating of adhesive or thermo-adhesive material 5.

According to another possible implementation (Figure 3), support 1 is associated with a triple 10, which is itself associated with pieces 6, 7.

In the latter case, support 1 is connected to triple 10 by thermal welding or thermocollage.

Such a triplet 10 may be made conventionally of cotton or equivalent.

The process of making a collar as described above involves including a step of attachment to parts 6, 7 of a support 1.

Depending on the project, support 1 is either only associated with parts 6, 7 or also associated with a triple 10.

Claims (12)

1. A piece of garment including one or more pieces of fabric and, associated with it, a textile reinforcement support in order to improve its dimensional stability over time, the textile reinforcement support being in the form of a weft knit fabric comprising an insertion of reinforcement and stabilisation threads lying in the direction of the weft between the rows of stitches, the reinforcement and stabilisation threads not participating in the formation of the stitch so as to be rectilinear and to have no undulation stresses, characterised in that the said piece of garment is a collar, notably for a shirt, and in that the reinforcement and stabilisation threads of the textile reinforcement support are disposed in the major direction of the collar, that is to say round the neck.
2. A piece of garment according to Claim 1, characterised by the fact that the reinforcement and stabilisation threads are thermally stabilised.
3. A piece of garment according to Claim 1 or 2, characterised by the fact that it also includes, inserted, a non-woven cloth.
4. A piece of garment according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterised by the fact that it includes an adhesive or heat-bonding material intended for its subsequent association with a fabric or an interlining material.
5. A piece of garment according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterised by the fact that the reinforcement and stabilisation threads are based on synthetic fibres or filaments.
6. A piece of garment according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterised by the fact that the textile reinforcement support either serves by itself as an interlining material or serves as the reinforcement of an interlining material itself associated with the piece or pieces of the collar.
7. A piece of garment according to Claim 6, characterised by the fact that the textile reinforcement support includes a covering made of adhesive or heat-bonding material to associate it with the piece or pieces of the collar or with the interlining material.
8. A piece of garment according to Claim 7, characterised by the fact that the interlining material is produced from cotton or equivalent.
9. A piece of garment according to any one of Claims 6 to 8, characterised by the fact that it includes two pieces of fabric, respectively top and bottom, connected to each other, and between which the textile reinforcement support is inserted and assembled.
10. A method of producing a shirt collar, characterised by the fact that it includes a step consisting in associating, with the piece or pieces of fabric of the collar, a textile reinforcement support according to any one of Claims 1 to 5.
11. A method according to Claim 10, characterised by the fact that the textile reinforcement support is associated solely with the piece or pieces of the collar, the textile reinforcement support serving in itself as an interlining material.
12. A method according to Claim 11, characterised by the fact that the textile reinforcement support is associated with an interlining material.