HK1070809A - Cosmetic compositions comprising discrete color domains and associated methods - Google Patents

Description

Cosmetic compositions comprising discrete color domains and related methods

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application claims priority from U.S. provisional application No. 60/298,998 filed on 18/6/2001.

Technical Field

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions and cosmetic compositions suitable for application to a substrate to provide an applied cosmetic composition having a color that improves color perception, e.g., improved skin tone, effect and/or change. The cosmetic composition includes at least two discrete color domains that are not readily discernible individually to the naked eye, but which are distinguishable within the cosmetic composition when viewed at a closer distance, such as under magnification. The invention also relates to a method for preparing these cosmetic compositions.

Background

The perception of color depends on the observation of light reflection in the visible wavelength range, in particular in the range of about 400 to 700 nm. To measure the perceived color of an object, a spectrophotometric curve (also referred to as a "spectral curve") may be drawn, where the percent reflectance is measured relative to the wavelength of light.

Various cosmetic compositions are provided for simulating natural skin tone, such as foundations, or for providing accessory colors, such as blushes, eye shadows, lipsticks, and the like. In addition, in an attempt to reactivate and replicate the youthful and natural skin characteristics, a variety of cosmetic compositions have been developed, including, for example, foundations and concealers. Typically, cosmetic compositions are applied to the skin to hide imperfections and/or to simulate healthy or natural looking skin. However, in addition to these applications, many people desire applied cosmetic compositions to achieve a variety of color effects and/or variations. For example, typical "effects and/or variations" may include, but are not limited to, widely used decorative color cosmetics that accentuate natural features with more prominent unnatural colors. Thus, there is a need for color cosmetics, such as lipsticks, eye shadows, nail polish, and even artists' cosmetics, where it is desirable to deliver a target color to the intended skin surface.

However, many current cosmetic compositions typically do not adequately and accurately represent the user's desired hue, effect, and/or change. As a result, the cosmetic composition appears dull and unrealistic, thereby creating an unnatural appearance and/or tone to the skin. Accordingly, there is a need to provide cosmetic compositions that, once applied to the skin, substantially exhibit a desired skin tone, effect and/or change, such as lipstick, nail polish, self-tanning products or artist's makeup. In addition, it is desirable that these compositions have enhanced color once applied to the skin and provide adequate coverage.

Summary of The Invention

Accordingly, it is an advantage of the present invention to provide novel cosmetic compositions and methods of preparing cosmetic compositions that overcome one or more of the deficiencies of the prior art. It is another advantage of the present invention to provide novel cosmetic compositions having improved color perception, including improved hue, effect and/or variation, and methods of making these cosmetic compositions.

In one embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions having at least two discrete color domains, wherein each color domain comprises at least one colorant. The color gamut is not readily discernible individually to the naked eye but is discernible in the cosmetic composition when viewed under magnification.

In another embodiment, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition suitable for application to a substrate to provide an applied cosmetic composition. The applied cosmetic composition comprises at least two discrete color domains, wherein each color domain comprises at least one colorant. The color gamut is not readily discernible individually to the naked eye but is discernible in the cosmetic composition when viewed under magnification.

In yet another embodiment, the present invention relates to a method of preparing a cosmetic composition having a desired color. The method comprises incorporating into the present cosmetic composition at least two discrete color domains, each color domain comprising at least one colorant, wherein the color domains are not readily discernible individually to the naked eye but are distinguishable within the cosmetic composition when viewed under magnification.

These novel features of the present invention will become readily apparent to those skilled in this art from the following detailed description, which is by way of illustration only, the various modes contemplated for carrying out the invention. As will be realized, the invention is capable of other different forms without departing from the scope of the invention in its obvious aspects. Accordingly, the drawings and description are to be regarded as illustrative in nature, and not as restrictive.

Brief description of the drawings

While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing out and distinctly claiming the present invention, it is believed that the same will be understood from the following description and the accompanying drawings, in which:

FIG. 1 depicts a spectral plot of a composition comprising a discrete color gamut, and a spectral plot of a composition comprising a physical mixture of colorants, plotted as percent reflectance versus wavelength of light (nm); and

fig. 2 depicts the first derivative of the spectral curve in fig. 1.

Detailed Description

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention, once applied to the skin, exhibit a desired color perception, and more particularly, a desired skin tone, effect and/or change. More particularly, the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions having a desired hue, effect and/or change comprising at least two discrete color domains that are not readily discernible individually to the naked eye but are distinguishable under magnification.

As used herein, "cosmetic composition" refers to pre-packaged formulations of cosmetic products, as well as formulations that may be suitable for delivery to a substrate to provide an applied cosmetic.

As used herein, "comprising" means that other steps and ingredients may be added. The term includes "consisting of and" consisting essentially of. The phrase "consisting essentially of means that the composition or method may include additional ingredients or steps, respectively, provided that the additional ingredients or steps do not materially alter the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed composition or method.

As used herein, "spectrophotometric curve" and "spectral curve" generally refer to plotted curves exhibiting relative reflectance (ordinate values) with respect to light wavelength (abscissa values) over a typical visible range of 400 to 700 nm. As used herein, the "first derivative" of a spectrophotometric or spectroscopic curve generally refers to a plotted curve having ordinate values of Δ% R/Δ λ and abscissa values of light wavelengths, typically in the range of 400 to 700nm, where R is reflectance and λ is wavelength. It is generally known that various perceived colors can be compared, particularly by measuring and plotting the reflectance of light versus the wavelength of visible light to obtain a spectral curve. Once the spectral curves of the perceived colors are obtained, the measured curves can be compared to obtain any distinguishing color characteristic exhibited by each individual color.

By comparing the spectral curves of physically mixed, discrete and discrete compositions and their associated first derivatives, the present inventors have discovered that these pigment systems have different spectral curves, both in absolute reflectance and shape. For example, colorants of the exact same type within a cosmetic composition may produce two different spectral profiles depending on the manner in which the colorant is physically dispersed into the composition. As used herein, "physical mixture" and "physically mixed" generally refer to a product obtained by mixing or combining two or more components, such as colorants, wherein the components, once mixed, cannot be individually identified or distinguished from each other. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the unique spectral characteristics of each individual colorant can be minimized if the colorants are thoroughly mixed, however, if the colorants are physically separated or discrete, different color perceptions based in part on the individual spectral characteristics of the colorants are obtained. For example, FIG. 1 depicts a comparison of the spectral profile of a composition comprising a silicone elastomer comprising discrete color domains with the spectral profile of a physical mixture of colorants in the visible region (400nm to 700 nm). As can be seen from FIG. 1, the spectral curve of the composition comprising the discrete color gamut (curve A) and the spectral curve of the composition comprising the colorant (curve B) are somewhat similar in shape; for example, both curves show that the plotted line is typically tilted upward from 400 to 700 nm. However, the inventors have determined that the overall similarity of the shape of the spectral curves is not sufficient to predict how a color will be perceived.

More specifically, fig. 1 tends to illustrate that cosmetic compositions comprising physical mixtures of colorants exhibit spectral curves that generally match or are similar to the overall shape of the composition spectral curves of mixtures comprising separate color gamuts. However, fig. 2 depicts the first derivative of the spectral curve in fig. 1, and more clearly illustrates the specific color characteristics along the curve. Comparison of the first derivative curves in FIG. 2 demonstrates that the first derivative curve for a composition of a physical mixture of colorants (curve B) is substantially different from the first derivative curve for a composition comprising a mixture of separated color domains (curve A), particularly in the wavelength region from about 440nm to about 530 nm. More specifically, the first derivative curve (curve B) of a composition comprising a physical mixture of colorants fails to illustrate the individual unique spectral characteristics of all colorants within the visible spectrum at the first derivative level when compared to the first derivative curve (curve a) of a composition comprising a mixture of separated color domains. Accordingly, a composition comprising a physical mixture of colorants (curve B) fails to exhibit all of the color characteristics exhibited by a composition comprising a discrete color gamut, and thus a composition comprising a physical mixture of colorants does not appear natural and/or dull, and does not fully exhibit the targeted or desired hue, effect, and/or change.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition has at least two discrete color domains, each color domain comprising at least one colorant. Furthermore, the color gamut is not easily recognizable individually when viewed at will or under the naked eye, but can be discerned in a cosmetic composition when viewed more closely, such as under magnification.

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention can be prepared in a variety of ways and methods and using two or more color domains of various types and combinations. As will be described in more detail below, in one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may be suitable for application to a substrate to provide an applied cosmetic composition, wherein the applied cosmetic composition comprises at least two discrete color domains, each color domain comprising at least one colorant. The color gamut is not readily discernible individually, either at will or under the naked eye, but can be discerned in a cosmetic composition when viewed more closely, such as under magnification. In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may provide at least two discrete color domains, each color domain comprising at least one colorant, wherein the color domains provide the composition with a desired color, and wherein a comparable physical mixture of the color domain colorants provides a mixed color, wherein Δ Ε between the desired color and the mixed color is greater than 5. These and other embodiments are described in more detail below.

Color gamut

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may comprise two or more discrete color domains to provide a desired skin tone, effect and/or variation. As used herein, "discrete color gamut" generally refers to the space of discrete and discrete color regions within a cosmetic composition and/or after delivery of the composition onto a substrate, each discrete and discrete color gamut individually comprising a representation of colors within a region of specified size. At least two discrete color domains are included in the cosmetic composition of the present invention. Multiple discrete color domains may also be combined within the present cosmetic compositions. Suitable color domains within a cosmetic composition may be arranged in such a way that each discrete color domain is capable of independently producing a separate color representation, while being individually undetectable to the human eye, macroscopically, i.e., to an arbitrary observer. Two or more color domains in a cosmetic composition collectively provide the composition with a desired skin tone, effect, and/or variation.

The discrete color gamut typically has an average size of about 5 μm to about 500 μm, but it will be understood by those skilled in the art that discrete color gamuts having sizes outside this range are also suitable for providing the desired skin tone, effect and/or variation. In a more specific embodiment, the discrete color gamuts have an average size of from about 10 μm to about 300 μm, preferably from about 10 μm to about 200 μm, more preferably from about 10 μm to about 100 μm, and in still further embodiments from about 10 μm to about 70 μm.

In this embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises at least two discrete color domains, each color domain comprising at least one colorant. As used herein, "colorant" generally refers to a dye, pigment, lake, or other agent used to impart a color expression to a material. If the colorants used in the present invention are solid or semi-solid, they typically have an average size of from about 0.01 μm to about 500 μm, preferably from about 0.01 μm to about 300 μm, more preferably from about 0.01 μm to about 100 μm, even more preferably from about 0.01 μm to about 70 μm, most preferably from about 0.01 μm to about 20 μm. It is to be understood that each discrete color gamut may consist entirely of a single colorant or may consist of a mixture of two or more colorants, and optionally each discrete color gamut may additionally include a carrier for one or more colorants. It should also be appreciated that in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention, discrete color domains comprising at least one colorant alone are not readily discernible individually to the naked eye. As will be explained in more detail below, the entire or complete cosmetic composition including the colorant may itself exhibit a substantially uniform hue, effect and/or change visually to a casual observer who may observe macroscopically. However, the discrete color domains remain separately distinguishable in the cosmetic composition when viewed at a closer distance, such as under magnification.

Some colorants that may be used in the present invention include, but are not limited to: d & C yellow 7, D & C red 36, FD & C red 4, D & C orange 4, D & C red 6, D & C red 34, FD & C yellow 6, D & C red 33, FD & C yellow 5, D & C brown 1, D & C red 17, FD & C green 3, D & C blue 4, D & C yellow 8, D & C orange 5, D & C red 22, D & C red 21, D & C red 28, D & C orange 11, D & C yellow 10, D & C violet 2, extended (Ext.) D & C violet 2, D & C green 6, D & C green 5, D & C red 30, D & C green 8, D & C red 7, FD & C blue 1, D & C yellow 7, D & C red 27, D & C orange 10, D & C red 31, FD & C red 40, D & C yellow 11, beta-guanine, bismuth oxide, bismuth oxychloride, iron oxide, bismuth oxide, chromium oxide, ferric ferrocyanide, manganese violet, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, caramel color, mica, ammonium ferrocyanide, dihydroxyacetone, guaialene, pyrophyllite, bronze powder, copper powder, aluminum stearate, calcium stearate, riboflavin (lactofavin), magnesium stearate, zinc stearate, capsanthin/capsorubin, bentonite, barium sulfate, calcium carbonate, calcium sulfate, carbon black, magnesium carbonate, colored silica, CI 10020, CI 11680, CI 15630, CI 15865, CI16185, CI 16255, CI 45430, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI73015, CI 74160, CI 75100, CI 77002, CI 77346, CI 77480. In addition, lakes or composites of these colorants may also be used. Preferred colorants are selected from the group consisting of chromium hydroxide green, yellow 10 aluminum lake, red 27 aluminum lake, titanium dioxide, and combinations thereof. Titanium dioxide comprising particles having an average particle diameter of about 35 to 60 μm is particularly preferred.

To identify colorants suitable for providing a physical mixture of colorants to achieve a desired color gamut and to provide the desired hue, effect and/or change to the composition, trial and error, combinatorial experimentation and known mathematical models, such as the Kubelka-Munk equation, may be applied. See Judd, deaneB., Wyszecki, Gunter, "Color in Business, Science and industry", 2^nd Edition，John Wiley and Sons，Inc.，New York，196 3.p.387--426。

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises two or more discrete color domains, wherein each color domain comprises at least one colorant. Alternatively, the cosmetic composition may comprise at least two color domains, wherein at least one color domain comprises a mixture of colorants. As used herein, "mixture" is meant to include simple combinations of materials and any compounds that can be produced from combinations thereof.

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention can be selectively prepared wherein the color gamut provides the desired color to the composition, wherein a physically comparable mixture of the color gamut colorants provides a mixed color, wherein Δ Ε between the desired color and the mixed color^*Greater than 5. As used in the present invention, "Δ E^*”＝[(L^* _{Expectation of}-L^* _Mixing)²+(a^* _{Expectation of}-a^* _Mixing)²+(b^* _{Expectation of}-b^* _{Mixing of})²]^0.5Wherein L is^*Is a measure of the intensity of the color, a^*Is a measure of the red and blue contributions, b^*Is a measure of the yellow to blue contribution. As used herein, "physical mixture" refers to the product of mixing or combining two or more colorants wherein the colorants, once mixed, cannot be individually identified or distinguished from each other. Additional Delta E^*Preferably greater than 10, and even more preferably greater than about 15.

One skilled in the art will appreciate that a cosmetic composition comprising two or more color domains may comprise any combination of the individual color domains described herein. Thus, for example, a first color gamut comprising a single colorant may be used with a second color gamut comprising a mixture of colorants, and/or a third color gamut comprising one or more colorants and a carrier. Alternatively, similar types of color gamuts may be used together.

In yet another embodiment, the color gamut may include a colorant and a carrier. As used herein, "carrier" generally refers to one or more compatible solid or liquid fillers, diluents, fillers, matrices, mechanisms, and the like, which can carry, transport, direct, or transport the colorant. The carriers of the present invention typically have a size of about 5 μm to about 500 μm, however, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that the cosmetic composition may also include carriers having an average size outside of this range. The type of carrier used in a particular product of the invention will depend on the type of product desired and/or the physical dosage form. More particularly, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention may be in a variety of product dosage forms. These dosage forms include, but are not limited to, waxes, pastes, emulsions, mousses, tonics, powders, solid sticks, gels, lotions, creams, and combinations thereof.

Carrier

The compositions of the present invention may include a safe and effective amount of a dermatologically acceptable carrier into which the colorants, physical mixtures and optional other ingredients are incorporated to deliver these materials to the skin at suitable concentrations. As used herein, "carrier" generally refers to one or more compatible solid or liquid fillers, diluents, fillers, matrices, devices, and the like, which carry, transport, direct, or transport the colorant. Thus, the carrier may act as a diluent, dispersant, solvent, etc. for the particulate material. In one embodiment, the color gamut may include a colorant and a carrier.

The carrier may comprise one or more dermatologically acceptable solid, semi-solid or liquid fillers, diluents, solvents, fillers, and the like. The carrier may be a solid, semi-solid or liquid. The carrier itself may be inert or it may itself have dermatological advantages. The carrier concentration may vary depending on the carrier selected and the desired concentrations of the necessary and optional components.

Suitable carriers include dermatologically acceptable conventional carriers or additional known carriers. The carrier should also be physically and chemically compatible with the essential ingredients described herein, so as not to unduly impair stability, efficacy or other utility benefits associated with the compositions of the present invention. Preferred components of the composition of the present invention should be capable of being mixed in a manner such that no interaction occurs that would substantially reduce the effectiveness of the composition under normal use conditions.

The colorant of the present compositions can be formed by incorporating the colorant into a carrier to form a mixed carrier/colorant having a color. For purposes of the present invention, "incorporation" is used to describe any method by which a mixed colorant/carrier composition can be achieved. For example, processes that encapsulate, entrain, disperse, solvate, or are carried out by any suitable method may be used, provided that they comply with the definition of the invention described herein. The mixed colorant/carrier variant can be a solid particle or a mixture of solid and liquid.

The type of carrier used in a particular product of the invention will depend on the type and/or physical form of the product desired. More specifically, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention may be in a variety of product dosage forms. Such dosage forms include, but are not limited to, lotions, creams, gels, sticks, sprays, ointments, pastes, mousses, and cosmetics (e.g., solid, semi-solid, or liquid cosmetics, including foundations, eye cosmetics, colored or colorless lip care products such as lipsticks, and the like). These product forms may include several types of carriers including, but not limited to, solutions, aerosols, emulsions, gels, solids, and liposomes. Suitable forms of personal care products are disclosed in U.S. patent 09/502395 filed on 11/2/2000 (Jakubovic et al); 09/544789, 09/544788, 09/544783, 09/54490, 09/544791(Robinson et al), all filed on 7/4/2000; 09/583616, 09/629765, 09/628630, 09,629734(Yen et al), all filed on 31/7/2000; 09/249217 (12/2/1999); 09/502395 (filed on 11/2/2000); U.S. Pat. Nos. 6071503, 6139823, 6019962, 6106820, 6017552, 6013269, and 6001373, all of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

These product forms may include several types of gamut carriers including, but not limited to, colloids, polymer capsules, or solid carriers. Particular embodiments of the present invention also comprise cosmetic compositions comprising at least two color domains, wherein at least one color domain comprises a colorant mixture and a carrier.

The aerosol of the present invention is formed by adding a propellant to a solution as described above. Exemplary propellants include chlorofluorinated low molecular weight hydrocarbons. Additional propellants for use in the present invention are described, for example, in Sararin's Cosmetics Science and Technology, 2nd Edition, Vol.2, pp.443-465(1972), which is incorporated herein by reference. Aerosols are typically applied to the skin in the form of a spray product.

The carrier of the present invention may comprise a dermatologically acceptable hydrophilic diluent. As used herein, "diluent" includes materials in which the particulate material can be dispersed, dissolved, or otherwise incorporated. Non-limiting examples of hydrophilic diluents include water, organic hydrophilic diluents such as lower monovalent alcohols (e.g., C)₁-C₄Alcohols) and low molecular weight diols and polyols, including propylene glycol, poly(s)Ethylene glycol (e.g., molecular weight 200-.

Preferably the carrier comprises an emulsion comprising a hydrophilic phase comprising a hydrophilic component such as water or other hydrophilic diluent, and a hydrophobic phase comprising a hydrophobic component such as a lipid, oil or oily material. As known to those skilled in the art, the hydrophilic phase may be dispersed in the hydrophobic phase and vice versa, forming a hydrophilic or hydrophobic dispersed and continuous phase, respectively, depending on the composition. In emulsion technology, the term "dispersed phase" is a term well known to those skilled in the art, which means that the phase exists as small particles or droplets suspended in and surrounded by a continuous phase. The dispersed phase is also referred to as the internal or discontinuous phase. The emulsion may be or include (e.g., as a three-phase or other multiphase emulsion) an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion, such as a water-in-silicone emulsion. Oil-in-water emulsions typically comprise from about 1% to about 50% (preferably from about 1% to about 30%) of a dispersed hydrophobic phase and from about 1% to about 98% (preferably from about 40% to about 90%) of a continuous hydrophilic phase; water-in-oil emulsions typically comprise from about 1% to about 98% (preferably from about 40% to about 90%) of a dispersed hydrophilic phase and from about 1% to about 50% (preferably from about 1% to about 30%) of a continuous hydrophobic phase. The emulsions may also contain a gel network, as described in "G.M. Eccleston, Application of emulsion standards to Mobile and semi solid O/Wemulsions, Cosmetics & Toiletries", Vol.101, November 1996, pp.73-92, which is incorporated herein by reference. Other emulsions suitable as carriers in the present invention include water-in-elastomer emulsions and elastomer-in-water emulsions.

Preferably the carrier comprises a combination of emulsifying and non-emulsifying crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers. The term "non-emulsifying" as used herein refers to a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer free of polyoxyalkylene monomers. The term "emulsifying" as used herein refers to a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer containing at least one polyoxyalkylene monomer. The emulsified crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer can be chosen in particular from, for example, U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004 (published 5.2.1995); 5,837,793 (published at 17.11.1998) and 5,811,487 (published at 22.9.1998). Particularly useful emulsifying elastomers are polyoxyalkylene modified elastomers formed from divinyl compounds, especially siloxane polymers having at least two free divinyl groups, reacting with Si-H bonds on a polysiloxane backbone. Preferably, the elastomer is a dimethylpolysiloxane crosslinked through Si-H sites on a molecularly spherical MQ resin.

Preferred carriers may also include colloidal dispersants. By "colloidal dispersant" is meant a two-phase system comprising a dispersed phase and a dispersion medium. The state of the dispersed phase (gas, solid or liquid) in the dispersion medium is a foam, suspension or emulsion system. The particle size of the dispersed phase also defines the system as a colloidal dispersant as opposed to a suspension and as a macroemulsion as opposed to a microemulsion.

The carrier may comprise a polymeric material. These substances are solid or semi-solid particles, film-forming agents or gelling agents. The polymers of the present invention may be selected from nonionic, ionic (anionic or cationic) and amphoteric (including zwitterionic) polymers. The polymers can have a variety of configurations, such as linear, branched, block, graft, star, tree, honeycomb, and the like. The distribution of the monomers can be controlled, statistical or arbitrary. The polymer may be soluble or crosslinked (thermoplastic or thermoset). The polymer may be organic or inorganic or a combination thereof. The polymer may be blended or mixed with other polymers. The polymer may be modified by additional ingredients known to those skilled in the art including, but not limited to, plasticizers, fillers, oligomers, surface modifiers, uv protectants, opacifiers, refractive index modifiers and processing aids. Suitable polymers include any known in the art, such as polyacrylic acid, polyisobutylene acid, polystyrene, polysiloxane, polyester, polyurethane, polyurea, polyamide, urethane-acrylic copolymer, styrene-acrylic copolymer, silicone-urethane copolymer, silicone-acrylic copolymer, silicone graft polymer, silicone block copolymer, polyolefin, ethyl ester, ethyl ether, polyvinylpyrrolidone or other vinyl heterocycle, cellulosic polymers, and mixtures thereof. As used herein, "polyacrylic acid" includes polyacrylate, polyacrylic acid, or polyacrylamide, and "polyisobutylene acid" includes polymethacrylate, polyisobutylene acid, or polymethacrylamide. Styrene-acrylic acid copolymers include styrene and acrylate copolymers, acrylic acid, acrylamide, methacrylate, methacrylic acid, and/or methacrylamide monomers. Additional suitable polymers can be found in The books of Polymer chemistry and Science, such as "The Principles of polymerization" by George Odian, "Fundamentals of Polymer Science by Paul C.Painter and Michael M.Coleman," Polymer Synthesis volumes 1-3 by Stanley R.Sandle and WolfKaro. Some additional polymer particles include polyamide particles, more particularly particles such as nylon 12, especially those sold by Atochem under the trade name Orgasol 2002D Nat C05; polystyrene microspheres such as those sold by Dynoperties under the trade name Dynospheres; ethylene acrylate copolymers sold by Kobo under the trade name FloBead EA209 and mixtures thereof, and by Kobo Inc under the trade name Ronasphere LDP. The additional organic polymeric particles may be selected from methylsilsesquioxane resin microspheres such as those sold by Toshiba Silicone under the trade name Tospearl 145A; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres such as those sold under the trade name Micropearl M100 by Seppic; crosslinked polydimethylsiloxanes, especially those sold under the trade name Trefil E506C or Trefil E505C by Dow Corning Toray Sillicone. Additional polymeric film formers include polyquaternary ammonium materials, such as the Luviquat series from BASF; chitosan and chitosan-based materials, including cellulose and cellulose-based materials.

The carrier may also be an inorganic spherical, non-spherical or plate-shaped particle, such as silica, silicate, carbonate, mica, sericite, talc, titanium dioxide, barium sulfate, clay, zinc oxide, alumina, aluminum benzoate, calcium carbonate, lakes (aluminum, barium, sodium, potassium, calcium, strontium, zirconium), and mixtures thereof.

The carrier may also be a combination structure such as a liquid crystal, a vesicle.

The carrier may also contain a solidifying or gelling agent. Suitable solidifying agents include waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, spermaceti wax, carnauba wax, bayberry wax, montan wax, ozokerite, ceresin, paraffin waxes, synthetic waxes such as Fischer-Tropsch wax, silicone waxes (e.g., dow corning DC 2503), microcrystalline waxes, and the like; soaps such as the sodium or potassium salts of higher fatty acids, i.e. acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; amides of higher fatty acids; higher fatty acid amides of hydroxylamines; benzaldehyde-mono-sorbitol acetal; alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts of acetic acid, propionic acid and lactic acid; and mixtures thereof. Polymeric materials such as locust bean gum, sodium alginate, sodium caseinate, egg proteins, gelatin agar, carrageenan, sodium alginate, xanthan gum, quince seed extract, tragacanth gum, starch, chemically modified starch and the like, semi-synthetic polymers such as cellulose ethers (e.g., hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose), polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, soluble starch, cationic cellulose, cationic guar gum and the like, and synthetic polymeric materials such as polyvinyl polymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol polyacrylic acid polymers, polyisobutylene acid polymers, polyvinyl acetate polymers, polyvinyl chloride polymers, polyvinylidene chloride polymers and the like may also be used. Inorganic thickeners such as aluminum silicates, e.g. bentonite or mixtures of polyethylene glycol and stearate or distearate of polyethylene glycol may be used. Natural polymers or biopolymers and their use are further described in European patent application 522624 to Dunphy et al. Additional examples of natural polymers or biopolymers can be found in the Cosmetic benchmark reference, pp.1.40-1.42, which is incorporated herein by reference.

Hydrophilic gelling agents may also be used in the present invention, such as acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers, and carboxyvinyl polymers sold by B.F. Goodrich Company under the trade name Carbopol Registered (TM) resins. These resins consist essentially of colloidal water-soluble polyalkenyl polyether cross-linked polymers formed by cross-linking acrylic acid with 0.75% to 2.00% of a cross-linking agent such as polyallyl sucrose or polyallyl pentaerythritol. Examples thereof include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol 980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981. Carbopol 934 is a water-soluble polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with about 1% polyallyl ether of sucrose having an average of about 5.8 allyl groups per sucrose molecule. Also suitable for use in the present invention are carbomers commercially available under the tradenames Carbopol Ultrez 10, Carbopol ETD2020, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol 1342, and Pemulen TR-1(CTFA nomenclature: acrylate/10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer). Mixtures of the above polymers may also be used in the present invention. Other gelling agents suitable for use in the present invention include oleogels such as trihydroxystearin.

Hydrophobically modified celluloses are also suitable for use in the present invention. These celluloses are described in detail in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,228,277 and 5,104,646, both of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Additional examples of suitable gelling agents can be found in the Cosmetic Bench Reference, p.1.27, which is incorporated herein by Reference. Examples of other suitable curing agents are disclosed in the following documents, all of which are incorporated herein by reference: us patent 4,151,272 to Geary et al, published 24.4.1979; geria, U.S. patent 4,229,432, published on 21/10/1980; U.S. patent 4,280,994 to Turney, published on 28.7.1981; "The Chemistry and technology of Waxes" reissued 1960, A.H.Warth, 2nd Edition, Reinhold publishing Corporation, pp 391-393 and 421; "The petroleum chemicals Industry", R.F. Goldstein and A.L. Waddeam, 3rdEdition (1967), E & F.N. span Ltd., pp 33-40; "the chemistry and management of Cosmetics", M.G. DeNavarre, 2nd edition (1970), Van Nostrand & Company, pp 354-; "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", Vol.24, Kirk-Othmer, 3rd Edition (1979) pp 466-481; U.S. patent 4,126,679 to Davy et al, published 1978, 11/21; european patent specification 117,070 published on 29/8/1984; us patent 2,900,306 to Slater, published on 8/18 of 1959; U.S. patent 3,255,082 issued to Barton on 6, 7/1966; U.S. patent 4,137,306 to Rubino et al, published on 30/1/1979; U.S. patent 4,154,816 to Roehl et al, published 5, 15, 1979; yuhas, U.S. patent 4,226,889, published on 10/7/1980; U.S. patent 4,346,079 to Roehl, published 24.8.1982; U.S. patent 4,383,988 to Teng et al, published 5, 17.1983; european patent Specification 107,330 to Luebbe et al, published on 2.5.1984; european patent specification 24,365 to Sampson et al, published on 3/4/1981; and U.S. patent application 630,790 to DiPietro, 7/13/1984.

Delivery mode

As referred to herein with respect to the phrase "cosmetic composition," the cosmetic composition of the present invention is suitable for delivery to a defined surface by a delivery device. For example, suitable delivery devices include, but are not limited to, colloidal systems, delivery matrices such as pads, sponges, open-cell foams, brushes, wraps, spraying equipment, and printing equipment. More specifically, delivery devices such as electrostatic spray devices, air spray devices, ink jet printheads, lithographic printing devices, or stamp pads are suitable for use in the present invention.

In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is suitable for application to a substrate to provide an applied cosmetic composition comprising at least two discrete color domains, each color domain comprising at least one colorant. The color gamut is not readily discernible individually, either at will or under the naked eye, but can be discerned in a cosmetic composition when viewed more closely, such as under magnification.

In certain embodiments, at least two color domains in a cosmetic composition are provided that are suitable for application to a substrate such that the applied cosmetic composition has a spectrophotometric curve that exhibits a plurality of first derivative characteristics. In this embodiment, the cosmetic composition suitable for application need not itself have a spectrophotometric curve that exhibits the desired first derivative characteristics prior to delivery. Rather, it is only necessary that the composition be suitable for providing, for example, via a delivery device, an applied cosmetic composition having a spectrophotometric curve that exhibits a desired first derivative characteristic. Thus, in this embodiment, the delivery device can modify the cosmetic composition prior to application to the target substrate in such a way that the desired characteristics are achieved by delivery.

More specifically, this embodiment includes a cosmetic composition suitable for application to a substrate to provide an applied cosmetic composition having a spectrophotometric curve, wherein the applied cosmetic composition includes at least two colorants, and wherein the spectrophotometric curve of the applied cosmetic composition has a first derivative, wherein (a) a maximum peak in the region of about 420nm to about 650nm occurs in the region of about 570nm to about 630nm, (b) a minimum valley occurs in the region of about 520nm to about 580nm having a delta% R/delta lambda value less than or equal to about 0.03, wherein R is reflectance and lambda is wavelength, and wherein the first derivative of the spectrophotometric curve of the cosmetic composition does not exhibit either (a) or (b) prior to delivery. In these embodiments, the preferred Δ% R/Δ λ is less than or equal to about 0.015, and most preferably less than or equal to about 0.

For example, the cosmetic composition may be packaged in such a way that the color gamut of each color is not intermixed here; however, the cosmetic composition is suitable for delivery to the desired substrate, i.e., skin, by a delivery device having a spray apparatus, including mechanical or electrostatic nozzles, applicator pads, etc., that affects the color gamut of intermixing to be able to provide an applied cosmetic composition having a desired spectrophotometric curve.

Optional ingredients

The compositions of the present invention may contain various other ingredients, such as those conventionally used in a given product type, so long as they do not unacceptably alter the benefits of the present invention. These optional components should be suitable for application to mammalian skin, i.e., when incorporated into the composition, they are suitable for contact with human skin without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like, within the scope of sound medical or formulator's judgment. A wide variety of non-limiting Cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the skin care field for use in the compositions of the present invention are described in CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, second edition (1992). Examples of such ingredients include: enzymes, surfactants, abrasives, dandruff-release agents, absorbents, cosmetic ingredients such as fragrances, pigments/colorants, essential oils, skin sensates, astringents, and the like (e.g., clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyl lactate, witch hazel concentrate), anti-acne agents (e.g., resorcinol, sulfur, salicylic acid, erythromycin, zinc, and the like), anti-caking agents, antifoaming agents, antimicrobial agents (e.g., iodopropyl butylcarbamate), antioxidants, binders, biological additives, buffering agents, extenders, chelating agents, chemical additives, colorants, cosmetic astringents, cosmetic biocides, denaturants, drug astringents, external analgesics, polymeric drops, film formers or film materials such as polymers that aid in the film-forming and substantive properties of the composition (e.g., copolymers of eicosene and vinylpyrrolidone), Humectants, sunscreens, pH adjusters, propellants, reducing agents, chelating agents, skin bleaching agents (or skin lightening agents) (e.g., hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucamine), skin soothing and/or therapeutic agents (e.g., panthenol and derivatives thereof such as ethyl panthenol), aloe vera, pantothenic acid and derivatives thereof, allantoin, bisabolol, and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate), thickeners, hydrocolloids, certain zeolites, and vitamins and derivatives thereof (e.g., tocopherol acetate, beta-carotene, retinoic acid, retinol, retinoids, retinyl palmitate, niacin, niacinamide, and the like). The compositions of the present invention may include carrier components such as those known in the art. Carriers of this type may include one or more compatible liquid or solid filler diluents or excipients, all of which should be suitable for application to the skin.

Optional components useful in the present invention may be classified according to their therapeutic or cosmetic effect or their postulated mode of action. However, it is to be understood that the optional components useful in the present invention may in some cases provide more than one therapeutic or cosmetic effect, or function in more than one way. Thus, classifications herein are made for the sake of convenience and are not intended to limit the component to that particular application or applications listed. Also, where applicable, pharmaceutically acceptable salts of the components may be used in the present invention.

Desquamation active substance

A safe and effective amount of a desquamation active may be added to the compositions of the present invention, preferably at a level of from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 4%, by weight of the composition. The desquamation actives can enhance the skin appearance benefits of the compositions of the present invention. For example, desquamation actives can improve the structure of the skin (e.g., smoothness). One desquamation system useful in the present invention comprises a sulfhydryl compound and a zwitterionic surfactant, which is described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,681,852, which is incorporated herein by reference. Another desquamation system useful in the present invention comprises salicylic acid and a zwitterionic surfactant, which is described in U.S. patent No. 5,652,228 to Bissett, which is incorporated herein by reference. Zwitterionic surfactants such as those described in these applications can also be used as desquamatory agents in the present invention, with cetyl betaine being particularly preferred.

Anti-acne active

The compositions of the present invention may contain a safe and effective amount of one or more anti-acne actives, preferably from about 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably from about 1% to about 20%. Examples of useful anti-acne actives include resorcinol, sulfur, salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, erythromycin, zinc, and the like. Other examples of suitable anti-acne actives are described in more detail in U.S. patent 5,607,980 to McAtee et al, 3/4, 1997.

Anti-wrinkle active substance/anti-atrophy active substance

The compositions of the present invention may contain a safe and effective amount of one or more anti-wrinkle actives or anti-atrophy actives. Exemplary anti-wrinkle actives/anti-atrophy actives suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and derivatives and salts thereof, especially N-acyl derivatives, of which the preferred embodiment is N-acetyl-L-cysteine; mercaptans such as ethanethiol; hydroxy acids (e.g., alpha-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid, lactic acid and glycolic acid, or beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid (; lysophosphatidic acid and skin exfoliating agents (e.g., phenols, and the like) which enhance the keratinous tissue appearance benefits of the present invention, particularly in regulating keratinous tissue condition, such as skin conditioning.

Antioxidant/free radical scavenger

The compositions of the present invention may include a safe and effective amount of an antioxidant/free radical scavenger, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5% of the composition. Antioxidants/radical scavengers are particularly useful for providing protection against ultraviolet radiation which can cause increased scaling or structural changes in the stratum corneum and against other environmental agents which can cause skin damage.

Antioxidants/radical scavengers such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its salts, ascorbic acid esters of fatty acids, ascorbic acid derivatives (e.g., magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbic acid sorbate), tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopherol acetate, other esters of tocopherol, butylated hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts, 6-hydroxy-2, 5, 7, 8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid (commercially available under the trade name Trolox)^) Gallic acid and its alkyl esters, especially propyl gallate, uric acid and its salts and alkyl esters, sorbic acid and its salts, lipoic acid, amines (e.g. N, N-diethylhydroxylamine, amino-guanidine), sulfhydryl compounds (e.g. glutathione), dihydroxyfumaric acid and its salts, oxypentanine betaine, arginine pilolate, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, bioflavonoids, curcumin, lysine, methionine, proline, superoxide dismutase, cetimaline, green tea extract, grape skin/seed extract, melanin and rosemary extract. Preferred antioxidants/radical scavengers are selected from the group consisting of tocopherol acetate, other esters of tocopherol and mixtures thereof. Tocopheryl acetate is particularly preferred.

Chelating agents

The compositions of the present invention may contain a safe and effective amount of a chelating agent. As used herein, "chelating agent" refers to an active agent that is capable of removing metal ions from a system by forming a complex, thereby rendering the metal ions less susceptible to participating in or catalyzing a chemical reaction.

A safe and effective amount of a chelating agent may be added to the compositions of the present invention, preferably in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5% of the composition. Exemplary chelating agents useful in the present invention are disclosed in U.S. patent 5,487,884 to Bissett et al, 1996, at 30/1; international publication 91/16035 to Bush et al, 10 months and 31 days 1995; and international publication 91/16034 published at 31-th month 10-1995 to Bush et al. Preferred chelating agents useful in the compositions of the present invention are furildioxime, and derivatives thereof.

Flavonoids

The compositions of the present invention may contain a safe and effective amount of a flavonoid compound. Flavonoids are fully disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,686,082 and 5,686,367, both of which are incorporated herein by reference. Flavonoids suitable for use in the present invention are selected from: unsubstituted flavanone, monosubstituted flavanone, and mixtures thereof; a chalcone selected from the group consisting of unsubstituted chalcones, monosubstituted chalcones, disubstituted chalcones, trisubstituted chalcones, and mixtures thereof; a flavone selected from the group consisting of unsubstituted flavones, monosubstituted flavones, disubstituted flavones, and mixtures thereof; one or more isoflavones; a coumarin selected from the group consisting of unsubstituted coumarin, monosubstituted coumarin, disubstituted coumarin, and mixtures thereof; a chromone selected from the group consisting of unsubstituted chromones, monosubstituted chromones, disubstituted chromones, and mixtures thereof; one or more bishydroxycoumarins; one or more chroman-4-ones; one or more chromanols; isomers thereof (e.g., cis/trans isomers); and mixtures thereof. The term "substituted" as used herein refers to flavonoids wherein one or more hydrogen atoms on the flavonoid have been independently replaced by: hydroxyl, C1-C8 alkyl, C1-C4 alkoxy, O-glucoside, etc., or mixtures of these substituents.

Examples of suitable flavonoids include, but are not limited to: unsubstituted flavanone, monohydroxyflavanone (e.g., 2 ' -hydroxyflavanone, 6-hydroxyflavanone, 7-hydroxyflavanone, etc.), monoalkoxyflavanone (e.g., 5-methoxyflavanone, 6-methoxyflavanone, 7-methoxyflavanone, 4 ' -methoxyflavanone, etc.), unsubstituted chalcone (especially unsubstituted trans-chalcone), monohydroxychalcone (e.g., 2 ' -hydroxychalcone, 4 ' -hydroxychalcone, etc.), dihydroxychalcone (e.g., 2 ', 4-dihydroxychalcone, 2 ', 4 ' -dihydroxychalcone, 2 ' -dihydroxychalcone, 2 ', 3-dihydroxychalcone, 2 ', 5 ' -dihydroxychalcone, etc.), and trihydroxychalcone (e.g., 2 ', 3 ', 4 ' -trihydroxychalcone, 4,2 ', 4 ' -trihydroxychalcone, 2 ', 4 ' -trihydroxychalcone, etc.), unsubstituted flavone, 7, 2 ' -dihydroxyflavone, 3 ', 4 ' -dihydroxynaphthalenone, 4 ' -hydroxyflavone, 5, 6-benzoflavone and 7, 8-benzoflavone, unsubstituted isoflavone, daidzein (7, 4 ' -dihydroxyisoflavone), 5, 7-dihydroxy-4 ' -methoxyisoflavone, soy isoflavone (a mixture extracted from soy), unsubstituted coumarin, 4-hydroxycoumarin, 7-hydroxycoumarin, 6-hydroxy-4-methylcoumarin, unsubstituted chromone, 3-formylchromone, 3-formyl-6-isopropylchromone, and the like, Unsubstituted dicoumarins, unsubstituted chroman-4-ones, unsubstituted chromanols, and mixtures thereof.

Unsubstituted flavanones, methoxyflavanones, unsubstituted chalcones, 2', 4-dihydroxychalcones, isoflavones, flavones and mixtures thereof are preferably used in the present invention. More preferably soy isoflavones.

Mixtures of the above flavonoid compounds may also be used.

The flavonoid compounds of the present invention are preferably present in the present invention at a concentration of from about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, still more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%.

Anti-inflammatory agents

A safe and effective amount of an anti-inflammatory agent may be added to the compositions of the present invention, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% of the composition.

Steroidal anti-inflammatory agents may be used, including, but not limited to, corticosteroids, such as hydrocortisone, triamcinolone, alpha-methyl dexamethasone, dexamethasone phosphate, beclomethasone dipropionate, clobetasol valerate, desonide, desoximetasone, deoxycorticosterol acetate, dexamethasone, dichloropine, diflorasone diacetate, diflucortolone valerate, fluadronolone, fluorodichloropine, fludrocortisone, flumethasone pivalate, fluocinolone acetonide, flucyclone butyl ester, fluocortolone, fluprednide (fluprednisone), fluocinolone, halcinonide, hydrocortisone acetate, hydrocortisone butyrate, methylprednisolone, triamcinolone acetonide, cortisone, desoxycortisone, flucetonide, fludrocortisone, diflorosone diacetate, fludrocortisone, diflorosone diacetate, fludrolone acetonide, fludrocortisone diacetate, fludrolone acetonide, fludroxolone diacetate, Amcinonide, betamethasone and its esters, prednisone, prednisolone acetate, clocortolone, clescinolone, dichloropine, acebutolone, fluocinolone acetonide, flunisolide, fluoromethalone, fluperlone, flupredone, hydrocortisone valerate, hydrocortisone cyclopentylpropionate, hydrocortisone bitartrate esters, methylprednisolone, paramethasone, prednisolone, prednisone, beclomethasone dipropionate, triamcinolone acetonide, and mixtures thereof. The preferred steroidal anti-inflammatory agent used is hydrocortisone.

A second class of anti-inflammatory agents useful in the compositions of the present invention include non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents. A variety of compounds that are non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents are well known to those skilled in the art. The chemical structure, synthesis, side reactions, etc., of nonsteroidal Anti-inflammatory Agents are disclosed in detail in standard books, including "Anti-inflammatory and Anti-inflammatory Drugs", K.D. Rainsford, Vol.I-III, CRC Press, Boca Raton, (1985), and "Anti-inflammatory Agents, Chemistry and Pharmacology", 1, R.A. Scherrer et al, Academic Press, New York (1974).

Specific non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents that may be used in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to:

1) oxicams, such as piroxicam, isoxicam, tenoxicam, sudoxicam and CP-14, 304;

2) salicylates, such as aspirin, salsalate, benorilate, yangonin, pyronin, solprin, diflunisal and fendulx;

3) acetic acid derivatives such as diclofenac, fencloc acid, indomethacin, sulindac, tolmetin, oxyacetic acid, ethoxyindac, thiepinoacetic acid, azidoindac, acemetacin, fentiazac, zomepirac, clidanac, heptacetic acid, felbinac and ketorolac;

4) fenamic agents, such as mefenamic acid, meclofenamic acid, flufenamic acid, niflumic acid, and tolfenamic acid;

5) propionic acid derivatives, for example ibuprofen, naproxen, benlofen, flurbiprofen, ketoprofen, fenoprofen, fenbufen, indoprofen, pirprofen, carprofen, oxaprozin, pranoprofen, miroprofen, thiophenepropionic acid, suprofen, alminoprofen and tiaprofenic acid; and

6) pyrazoles, such as phenylbutazone, oxyphenbutazone, feprazone, indomethacin, and trimethophonate.

Mixtures of these nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory agents, as well as dermatologically acceptable salts and esters of these anti-inflammatory agents, may also be used. For example etofenamate, which is a flufenamic acid derivative, is particularly useful for topical application. Preferred among the non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents are ibuprofen, naproxen, flufenamic acid, etofenamate, aspirin, mefenamic acid, meclofenamic acid, piroxicam, and felbinac.

Finally, so-called "natural" anti-inflammatory agents may also be used in the methods of the present invention. Such agents are suitably obtained as extracts by physical and/or chemical isolation from suitable natural sources (e.g. plants, fungi, microbial by-products) or may be prepared synthetically. For example, candelilla wax, bisabolol (e.g., α bisabolol), aloe vera, phytosterols (e.g., phytosterols), Manjistha (extracted from plants of the rubiaceae family, especially rubia cordifolia), and Guggal (extracted from plants of the family olivaceae, especially commiphora mukul), kola extract, chamomile, red clover extract, and gorgonia pseudopterocarpa extract can be used.

Other anti-inflammatory agents useful in the present invention include compounds of the glycyrrhiza (glycyrrhiza/plant) class, including glycyrrhetinic acid, glycyrrhizic acid, and their derivatives (e.g., salts and esters). Suitable salts of the above compounds include metal salts and ammonium salts. Suitable esters include C of these acids₂-C₂₄Preferably C₁₀-C₂₄More preferably C₁₆-C₂₄Saturated or unsaturated esters of (a). Specific examples of the above compounds include oil-soluble licorice extract, glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhetinic acid, monoammonium glycyrrhizinate, monopotassium glycyrrhizinate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 1-beta-glycyrrhetinic acid, stearyl glycyrrhetinate and 3-stearyloxy glycyrrhetinic acid, and disodium 3-succinyloxy-beta-glycyrrhetinate. Stearyl glycyrrhetinate is preferred.

Anti-fat agent

The compositions of the present invention may contain a safe and effective amount of an anti-fat agent. Suitable anti-fat agents include, but are not limited to, xanthine compounds (e.g., caffeine, theophylline, theobromine, and aminophylline).

Local anesthetic

The compositions of the present invention may contain a safe and effective amount of a local anesthetic. Examples of local anesthetic drugs include benzocaine, lidocaine, bupivacaine, chloroprocaine, dibucaine, etidocaine, mepivacaine, tetracaine, dyclonine, hexylcaine, procaine, cocaine, ketamine, pramoxine, phenol, and pharmaceutically acceptable salts thereof.

Tanning actives

The compositions of the present invention may contain a safe and effective amount of tanning active, preferably from about 0.1% to about 20% dihydroxyacetone as an artificial tanning active.

Dihydroxyacetone, also known as DHA or 1, 3-dihydroxy-2-propanone, is a white to off-white crystalline powder.

Skin lightening agent

The compositions of the present invention may comprise a skin lightening agent. When a skin lightening agent is used, the composition preferably comprises from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, still more preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%, by weight of the composition, of the skin lightening agent. Suitable skin lightening agents include those known in the art, including kojic acid, arbutin, ascorbic acid and its derivatives (e.g., magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or sodium ascorbyl phosphate) and extracts (e.g., mulberry extract, placental extract). Skin lightening agents useful in the present invention also include those described in PCT publication 95/34280 in the name of Hillebrand, corresponding to PCT application US95/07432, filed on 12.6.1995; and co-pending U.S. application 08/390,152 filed in the name of kvalens, Mitchell a.delong, Barton j.bradbury, Curtis b.motley, and John d.carter, corresponding to PCT publication 95/23780, published on 9/8 of 1995.

Skin soothing and skin treatment actives

A safe and effective amount of a skin soothing or skin treatment active may be added to the present compositions, preferably at a level of from about 0.1% to about 30%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 20%, still more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, by weight of the formed composition. Skin soothing or skin treatment actives useful in the present invention include pantothenic acid derivatives (including panthenol, dexpanthenol, ethyl panthenol), aloe vera, allantoin, bisabolol, and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate.

Antimicrobial and fungicidal active substance

The compositions of the present invention may comprise an antimicrobial or antifungal active. A safe and effective amount of an antimicrobial or antifungal active may be added to the present compositions, preferably at a level of from about 0.001% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, and still more preferably from about 0.05% to about 2%.

Examples of antimicrobial and antifungal actives include beta-lactam drugs, quinolone drugs, tendomycin, norfloxacin, tetracycline, erythromycin, amikacin, 2, 4, 4 ' -trichloro-2 ' -hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3, 4, 4 ' -trichloro-aniline (trichlorobanilide), phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, doxycycline, capreomycin, chlorhexidine, chlortetracycline, oxytetracycline, clindamycin, ethambutol, hexamine isethionate, metronidazole, pentamidine, gentamicin, kanamycin, linnamycin (lineomycin), methacycline, urotropinomycin, urotropinirosin, minocycline, neomycin, netilmicin, paromomycin, streptomycin, tobramycin, miconazole, tetracycline hydrochloride, erythromycin, zinc erythromycin, erythromycin estoxide, erythromycin stearate, erythromycin, Amikacin sulfate, doxycycline hydrochloride, capreomycin sulfate, chlorhexidine gluconate, chlorhexidine hydrochloride, chlortetracycline hydrochloride, oxytetracycline hydrochloride, clindamycin hydrochloride, ethambutol hydrochloride, metronidazole hydrochloride, pentamidine hydrochloride, gentamicin sulfate, kanamycin sulfate, lincomycin hydrochloride, methacycline hydrochloride, urotropin maleate, urotropin mandelate, minocycline hydrochloride, neomycin sulfate, ethylsisomicin sulfate, paromomycin sulfate, streptomycin sulfate, tobramycin sulfate, miconazole hydrochloride, ketaconazole, amanfadine hydrochloride, amanfadine sulfate, octopirox, parachlorometaxylenol, nystatin, tolnaftate, zinc pyrithione, and clotrimazole.

Preferred examples of use in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of: salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, 2-hydroxybutyric acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid, arachidonic acid, benzoyl peroxide, tetracycline, ibuprofen, naproxen, hydrocortisone, heroin, resorcinol, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, 2, 4, 4 ' -trichloro-2 ' -hydroxydiphenyl ester, 3, 4, 4 ' -trichlorocarbanilide, octopirox, lidocaine hydrochloride, clotrimazole, miconazole, ketoconazole, neomycin sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

Sunscreen active

Irradiation with ultraviolet light can result in excessive desquamation and structural changes in the stratum corneum. Thus, the compositions of the present invention may contain a safe and effective amount of sunscreen active. As used herein, "sunscreen actives" include sunscreens and physical sunblocks. Suitable sunscreen actives may be organic or inorganic.

Inorganic sunscreens useful in the present invention include the following metal oxides; titanium dioxide having an average primary particle size of from about 15nm to about 100nm, zinc oxide having an average primary particle size of from about 15nm to about 150nm, zirconium oxide having an average primary particle size of from about 15nm to about 150nm, iron oxide having an average primary particle size of from about 15nm to about 500nm, and mixtures thereof. When used in the present invention, inorganic sunscreens are present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, by weight of the composition.

A variety of conventional organic sunscreen materials are suitable for use in the present invention. A variety of suitable active agents are disclosed by Sagarin, et al, in chapter VIII of the Cosmetics Science and Technology (1972), beginning at page 189 and onwards. Specific suitable sunscreen actives include, for example: p-aminobenzoic acid and its salts and derivatives (ethyl, isobutyl, glyceryl esters; p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid); anthranilates (e.g., anthranilate; methyl, menthyl, phenyl, phenethyl, linalyl, terpinyl, and cyclohexenyl esters); salicylates (pentyl, phenyl, octyl, benzyl, menthyl, glyceryl, and di-propylene glycol esters); cinnamic acid derivatives (menthyl and benzyl esters, a-phenylcinnamonitrile; butylcinnamoylacetonate); dihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (umbelliferone, methylumbelliferone, methylacetumbelliferone); trihydroxy cinnamic acid derivatives (esculetin, methylesculetin, dihydroxycoumarin and glucoside, esculetin and daphnetin); hydrocarbons (diphenylbutadiene, stilbene); dibenzylidene acetone and benzylidene acetophenone; naphthol sulfonate (sodium 2-naphthol-3, 6-disulfonate and sodium 2-naphthol-6, 8-disulfonate); di-hydroxynaphthoic acid and salts thereof; meta-and para-hydroxydiphenyl disulfonates; coumarin derivatives (7-hydroxy, 7-methyl, 3-phenyl); diazoles (2-acetyl-3-bromoindazole, phenylbenzooxazole, methylnaphthooxazole, various arylbenzothiophenes); quinine salts (bisulfate, sulfate, hydrochloride, oleate and tannate salts; quinoline derivatives (8-hydroxyquinoline salts, 2-phenylquinoline salts), hydroxy-or methoxy-substituted benzophenones, uric and violuric acids, tannic acid and its derivatives (e.g., hexaethyl ether); (butyl carbitol)) (6-propyl piperonyl) ether; hydroquinone; benzophenones (oxybenzene, sulfoisobenzone, dioxybenzozone, benzoresorcinol, 2 ', 4, 4 ' -tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2 ' -dihydroxy-4, 4 ' -dimethoxybenzophenone, otaphenone; 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane; butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane; etoriciline; octocrylene [3- (4 ' -methylcarbinylbenzyl-2-one) ], and, P-xylylene dicamphor sulfonic acid and 4-isopropyl-di-benzoylmethane.

Among these sunscreens, 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (commercially available under the trade name PARSOL MCX), 4' -tert-butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (commercially available under the trade name PARSOL 1789), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, digallacyl trioleate, 2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, ethyl 4- (bis (hydroxypropyl)) aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, glyceryl p-aminobenzoate, 3, 5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate, methyl anthranilate, p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate, p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid or its derivative, and the like are preferable, 2-ethylhexyl p-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, 2- (p-dimethylaminophenyl) -5-sulfobenzoxazole, octocrylene and mixtures of these compounds.

Also particularly suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are sunscreen actives such as those disclosed in the following references: sabatelli U.S. patent 4,937,370, published 26.1990 and Sabatelli & Spirnak U.S. patent 4,999,186, published 12.3.1991. The sunscreens disclosed in these documents have two different chromophore moieties in one molecule, which exhibit different ultraviolet absorption spectra. One chromophore moiety absorbs predominantly in the UVB radiation range and the other chromophore strongly absorbs in the UVA radiation range.

Among such sunscreens, preferred are 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester of 2, 4-dihydroxybenzophenone; n, N-bis- (2-ethylhexyl) -4-aminobenzoate of 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane; 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester of 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane; 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester of 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone; 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester of 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane; n, N-bis- (2-ethylhexyl) -4-aminobenzoate of 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone; n, N-bis- (2-ethylhexyl) -4-aminobenzoate of 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane; and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred sunscreen actives include 4, 4' -tert-butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, and octocrylene.

A safe and effective amount of organic sunscreen active is employed, typically at a level of from about 1% to about 20%, more typically from about 2% to about 10%, by weight of the composition. The exact amount depends on the sunscreen selected and the Sun Protection Factor (SPF).

Particulate material

The compositions of the present invention may contain a safe and effective amount of a particulate material, preferably a metal oxide. These particles may be coated or uncoated, charged or uncharged. Charged particulate matter is disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,997,887 to Ha et al, which is incorporated herein by reference. The particulate material used in the present invention includes: bismuth oxychloride, iron oxide, mica treated with barium sulfate and TiO2, silica, nylon, polyethylene, talc, styrene, polypropylene, ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, bismuth oxychloride, sericite, alumina, silicone resin, barium sulfate, calcium carbonate, cellulose acetate, polymethacrylate, and mixtures thereof.

One example of a suitable particulate material comprises material available from U.S. cosmetics (TRONOX TiO2 series, SAT-T CR837, rutile TiO 2). Preferably, the particulate material is present in the composition in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 2%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, still more preferably from about 0.1% to about 1%, by weight of the composition.

Conditioning agent

The compositions of the present invention may contain a safe and effective amount of a conditioning agent selected from a humectant, a moisturizer, or a skin conditioning agent. A variety of such materials may be used, each of which may be present at a level of from about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, still more preferably from about 0.5% to about 7% by weight of the composition. These include, but are not limited to: guanidine; urea; glycolic acid and glycolate salts (e.g., ammonium and tetraalkylammonium); salicylic acid; lactic acid and lactate salts (e.g., ammonium and tetraalkylammonium); aloe vera in any form (e.g., aloe vera gel); polyhydric alcohols such as sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, glycerol, hexanetriol, butanetriol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and the like; polyethylene glycol; sugars (e.g., melibiose) and starch; sugar and starch derivatives (e.g., alkoxylated glucose, fucose); hyaluronic acid; lactamide monoethanolamine; acetamide monoethanolamine; panthenol; allantoin; and mixtures thereof. Also useful herein are propoxylated glycerols described in the following references: U.S. Pat. No. 4,976,953 to Orr et al, published 12, 11, 1990.

Also useful are various C's of sugars and related materials₁-C₃₀Monoesters and polyesters. These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol moiety and one or more carboxylic acid moieties.

Preferably, the conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of urea, guanidine, sucrose polyester, panthenol, dexpanthenol, allantoin, glycerin, and mixtures thereof.

Thickening agent (including thickening agent, structuring agent and gelling agent)

The compositions of the present invention may contain a safe and effective amount of one or more thickening agents, preferably at a level of from about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 4%, and still more preferably from about 0.25% to about 3% by weight of the composition.

The kinds of the thickener include:

a) carboxylic acid polymers

These polymers are crosslinking compounds comprising one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids, wherein the crosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds and is derived from a polyol. The following documents describe in more detail the polymers that can be used in the present invention: U.S. Pat. No. 5,087,445 to Haffey et al, published in 1992, month 2, day 11; huang et al, U.S. Pat. No. 4,509,949, issued on 5.4.1985; brown, U.S. patent No. 2,798,053, published on 7/2/1957; and CTFA "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary", fourth edition, 1991, pages 12 and 80.

Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers useful in the present invention include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with sucrose or allyl ether of pentaerythritol. Carbomer is known under the trade name Carbopol^900 series from B.F.Goodrich (e.g., Carbopol)^954). In addition, other suitable carboxylic acid polymerization agents include C_10-30Copolymers of alkyl acrylates with one or more of the following monomers, including: acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or short chains thereof (i.e. C)_1-4Alcohol) ester, wherein the cross-linking agent is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerythritol. These copolymers are referred to as acrylates/C_10-30Alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sold under the trade name Carbopol by b.f. goodrich^1342、Carbopol^1382. Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2. Examples of carboxylic acid polymer thickeners useful in the present invention are selected from carbomers, acrylates/C₁₀-C₃₀Alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymers and mixtures thereof.

b) Crosslinked polyacrylate polymers

The compositions of the present invention may contain a safe and effective amount of a crosslinked polyacrylic acid polymer useful as a thickening or gelling agent, including cationic and nonionic polymers, with cationic polymers being generally preferred. Examples of useful crosslinked nonionic polyacrylate polymers and crosslinked cationic polyacrylate polymers are those described in the following references: U.S. patent 5,100,660, Hawe et al, published 3/31/1992; U.S. patent 4,849,484, Heard, published in 1989 at 7/18; U.S. patent 4,835,206, farrarar et al, published 30/5 in 1989; U.S. Pat. No. 4, 4,628,078, Glover et al, published in 9.12.1986; U.S. Pat. No. 8/7 of 1986, U.S. Pat. No. 4,599,379 Flesher et al; and European patent 228,868, Farrar et al, published on 15/7/1987.

c) Polyacrylamide polymer

The compositions of the present invention may comprise a safe and effective amount of polyacrylamide polymer, particularly nonionic polyacrylamide polymers including substituted branched or unbranched polymers. More preferred of these polyacrylamide polymers are nonionic polymers having the CTFA designation polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, and laureth-7, sold under the trade name Sepigel 305 by Seppic Corporation (Fairfield, NJ).

Other polyacrylamide polymers useful in the present invention include multi-block copolymers of acrylamide and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acid and substituted acrylic acids. Commercial examples of these multi-block copolymers include those available from Lipo Chemicals under the trade names Hypan SR150H, SS500V, SS500W, and SSSA100H (Patterson, new jersey).

d) Polysaccharides

There are a wide variety of polysaccharides that can be used in the present invention. By "polysaccharide" is meant a gelling agent comprising a backbone of repeating sugar (i.e., carbohydrate) units. Examples of polysaccharide gelling agents include: cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, acetate propionate carboxylate cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, methyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium sulfate cellulose, and mixtures thereof. Also useful herein are alkyl substituted celluloses. Among these polymers, celluloseThe hydroxyl groups of the polymer are hydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxypropylated) to form a hydroxyalkylated cellulose, whereby the hydroxyalkylated cellulose is C-linked via an ether linkage₁₀-C₃₀Linear or branched alkyl groups. Typically, these polymers are C₁₀-C₃₀Ethers of straight or branched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkyl cellulose. Alkyl examples useful herein include those selected from the group consisting of stearyl, isostearyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, isohexadecyl, cocoyl (i.e., alkyl derived from coconut oil alcohol), palmityl, oleyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, ricinoleyl, behenyl, and mixtures thereof. Among the alkylhydroxyalkyl ether celluloses, the preferred one having the CTFA designation cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose is the ether of cetyl alcohol with hydroxyethylcellulose. This material is sold under the trade name Natrosol^CS Plus is available from Aqualon Corporation (Wilmington, DE).

Other useful polysaccharides include scleroglucan, which is a linear chain of (1-3) linked glucose units and (1-6) linked glucose units in every three units, a commercially available example of which is sold under the trade name Clearogel by Michel Mercier products Inc. (Mount, N.J.)^TM CS11。

e) Gum (a kind of food)

Other thickeners and gelling agents useful in the present invention include materials derived primarily from natural sources. These gelling agent gums include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, pullulan, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, silica hydrate, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar gum, karaya gum, seaweed, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl (carboxymethyl) dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

f) Additional thickeners

Suitable thickeners may be selected from the following: polysiloxanes, waxes, clays, silica, salts, natural and synthetic esters, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of such structuring or thickening agents are described below.

Suitable polysiloxanes include alkyl siloxane gelling agents, high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes (fluids having a viscosity of greater than 1000 mPas) and high molecular weight alkyl-, hydroxy-, carboxy-, amino-and/or fluoro-substituted polydimethylsiloxanes (fluids having a viscosity of greater than 1000 mPas). Preferred silicone gelling agents are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,654,362 and 5,880,210, which include cyclomethicone and dimethicone crosspolymer (e.g., Dow Corning 9040).

"wax" refers to a low melting point, high molecular weight organic mixture or compound that is solid at room temperature and generally similar in composition to fats and oils, but the wax does not contain glycerides. Some waxes are hydrocarbons and others are esters of fatty acids and alcohols. Suitable waxes may be selected from natural waxes such as animal waxes, vegetable waxes and mineral waxes; and synthetic waxes such as petroleum waxes, olefin polymers, hydrocarbon waxes (e.g., Fischer-Tropsch waxes), ester waxes, silicone waxes; and mixtures thereof. Synthetic Waxes include those disclosed in Warth, Chemistry and Technology of Waxes, Part 2, Reinhold publishing (1956), which is incorporated herein by reference.

Specific examples of the wax include beeswax, lanolin wax, shellac wax (animal wax); carnauba wax, candelilla wax, laurel fruit, jojoba esters, behenic acid wax (e.g., from gattifnose under the trade name Compritol^Glyceryl behenate), ozokerite, ceresin, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, polyethylene homopolymers, polymers including ethylene oxide or ethylene (e.g., long chain polymers of ethylene oxide in combination with dihydric alcohols known as polyoxyethylene glycols, such as those available from Carbide and Carbon Chemicals under the tradename Carbowax; long-chain polymers of ethylene with OH or other terminal length groups at the chain endsIncluding Fischer-Tropsch waxes as published on pages Warth, supra, 465-469, and specifically including Rossswax from Ross and PT-0602 Astor Wax from Astor Wax), C₂₄-C₄₅Alkyl methyl siloxane, C₈-C₅₀Hydrocarbon waxes, alkylated polyvinylpyrrolidones (e.g., "Ganex" alkylated polyvinylpyrrolidones from ISP company), C₂₀-C₆₀Fatty alcohols (e.g., "Unilines," from Petrolite corporation), and mixtures thereof.

Water-dispersible and oil-dispersible clays can be used to provide structure or thickening. Suitable clays can be selected from, for example, montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, laponite, silicates and mixtures thereof.

Suitable water dispersible clays include bentonite and hectorite (such as Bentone EW, LT from Rheox); magnesium aluminum silicates (such as Veegum, trade name from Vanderbilt); attapulgite (e.g., Attasorb or Pharamasorb from Engelhard); laponite and montmorillonite (e.g., Gelwhite from ECC America); and mixtures thereof.

Suitable oil-dispersible clays include organophilic modified bentonites, hectorites and attapulgite. Specific commercially available examples of these clays include Bentone 34(Rheox corporation) -quaternary ammonium-18 bentonite; tixogel VP (United Catalysts) -quaternary ammonium-18 bentonite; bentone 38(Rheox corporation) -quat-18 hectorite; bentone SD-3(Rheox corporation) -dihydrogenated tallow benzyl monomethyl ammonium (Benzylmonium) hectorite; bentone 27(Rheox corporation) -stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium hectorite; tixogellg (united catalysts) -stearyldimethylbenzylammonium bentonite; claytone 34(Southern Clay) Quaternary ammonium-18 Bentonite; claytone 40(Southern Clay) Quaternary ammonium-18 Bentonite; claytone AF (Southern Clay) stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium bentonite; claytone APA (Southern Clay) stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium Bentonite; claytone GR (Southern Clay) Quaternary ammonium-18/Alkylbenzyldimethylammonium Bentonite; claytone HT (Southern Clay) Quaternary ammonium-18/Alkylbenzyldimethylammonium Bentonite; claytone PS (Southern Clay) Quaternary ammonium-18/Alkylbenzyldimethylammonium Bentonite; claytone XL (Southern Clay) Quaternary ammonium-18 Bentonite; and visrol 1265(Cimbar) -organophilic attapulgite. These organophilic clays can be purchased as pre-dispersed organophilic clays in oils or organic solvents. These materials are in the form of thick pastes that are easily dispersed in the formulation. Such materials include Mastergels from Rheox, United Catalysts, and Southern Clay.

Other thickeners include fumed silica and alkali metal or ammonium halides. Examples of fumed silicas include Aerosil 200, Aerosil 300, and alkyl-substituted fumed silicas such as the Aerosil R-100, 200, 800, and 900 series, all available from DeGussa corporation.

Preferred thickeners are those which do not substantially penetrate the fluid distribution material, such as waxes and high molecular weight polysiloxanes and hydrocarbons.

Additional powder component

Suitable powders include various organic and inorganic pigments for coloring compositions and skin. Organic pigments are generally of various types, including azo, indigo-based dyes, triphenylmethane, anthraquinone and xanthine dyes, which are known by the names D & C and FD & C blue, brown, green, orange, red, yellow, and the like. Inorganic pigments are typically insoluble salts of identified color additives and may be referred to as lakes or iron oxides. Suitable pigments include those generally recognized as safe, as listed in c.t.f.a.cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, First Edition, Washington d.c. (1988), which is incorporated herein by reference. Specific examples are red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, brown iron oxide, ultramarine, FD & C red 2, 5,6, 7, 10, 11, 12, 13, 30 and 34; FD & C yellow 5, red 3, 21, 27, 28 and 33 aluminum lakes, yellow 5,6 and 10 aluminum lakes, orange 5 aluminum lake, blue 1 aluminum lake, red 6 barium lake, red 7 calcium lake, and the like.

Other useful powdered materials include talc, mica, titanated mica (titanium dioxide coated mica), iron oxide titanate mica, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, magnesium silicate, silica (including spherical silica, silica hydrate and silica beads), titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, nylon powder, polyethylene powder, ethylene acrylate copolymer powder, methacrylate powder, polystyrene powder, silk powder, crystalline cellulose, starch, bismuth oxychloride, guanine, china clay, chalk, diatomaceous earth, microencapsulated sponges, boron nitride, and the like. Additional powders that can be used in the present invention are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,505,937 to Castrogiovanni et al, 4.9.1996.

Among these components used as surface roughening agents, low gloss pigments, talc, polyethylene, silica hydrate, china clay, titanium dioxide, titanated mica and mixtures thereof are preferred.

Mica, boron nitride and ethylene acrylate copolymers (e.g., EA-209 from Kobo) are preferred for imparting speckle effects by light diffraction and improving skin feel, for example, by providing a smooth feel. Another particulate material used to improve skin feel is SPCAT I2 (talc, polyethylene copolymers and titanium isopropyl triisostearate).

Preferred powders for oil absorption are spherical, non-porous particles, more preferably having a particle size below 25 microns. Examples of some preferred oil absorbing powders are Coslin C-100 (spherical oil absorber commercially available from Englehard), Tospearl (spherical silica commercially available from Kobo industries), ethylene acrylate copolymers such as those mentioned above, and SPCAT I2.

The powder may be surface treated with one or more agents, such as lecithin, amino acids, mineral oil, silicone oil, or various other agents, such as being applied to the surface to provide hydrophobicity or hydrophilicity to the particles. These treatments are preferably used to improve the ease and stability of the formulation.

Substances for enhancing wear resistance or transfer resistance

One or more materials may be used in the compositions of the present invention to impart abrasion or transfer resistance, for example, by film formation or substantivity. Such materials are typically used in amounts of about 0.5% to about 20%.

Such materials include film-forming polymeric materials. While the content of the film-forming polymeric material can vary, it is typically from about 0.5% to about 20% (e.g., from about 1% to about 15%), preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 8%, by weight. Preferred polymers form a non-tacky film that can be washed off with water and a detergent such as soap.

Suitable film-forming polymeric materials include:

a) sulfur polyester resins, such as AQ (osission) sulfur polyester resins, e.g., AQ29D, AQ35S, AQ38D, AQ38S, AQ48S, and AQ55S (from Eastman Chemicals);

b) polyvinyl acetate/polyvinyl alcohol polymers such as Vinex resins from Air Products, including Vinex 2034, Vinex 2144, and 2019;

c) acrylic resins, including water dispersible acrylic resins available under the trade name "Dermacryl" from National Starch, including Dermacryl LT;

d) polyvinylpyrrolidones (PVP), including Luviskol K17, K30, and K90 (from BASF), water-soluble PVP copolymers, including PVP/VA S-630 and W-735, and PVP/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers, such as copolymer 845 and copolymer 937 from ISP, and other PVP polymers disclosed in the "Encyclopedia of polymer Science and Engineering", 2ed., vol.17, pp.198-257, e.g., e.s.barabas;

e) high molecular weight polysiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxane and organo-substituted polydimethylsiloxane, especially those having a viscosity greater than about 50,000 mPas;

f) high molecular weight hydrocarbon polymers having a viscosity of greater than about 50,000 mPas;

g) organosiloxanes including organosiloxane resins, fluid diorganopolysiloxane polymers, and silicone ester waxes.

Examples of such polymers and cosmetic compositions comprising them are described in PCT publication WO96/33689, published in 1996 at 10/31; WO97/17058, published in 1997, 5/15; and U.S. Pat. No. 5,505,937 to Castrogiovanni et al, 4/9 in 1996, all of which are incorporated herein by reference. Additional film-forming polymers suitable for use in the present invention include water-insoluble polymeric materials in aqueous emulsions and water-soluble film-forming polymers disclosed in PCT publication WO98/18431, 5/7/1998, which is incorporated herein by reference. Examples of high molecular weight hydrocarbon polymers having a viscosity of no greater than about 50,000mPas include polybutenes, polybutylene terephthalates, polydecenes, polycyclopentadienes, and similar straight and branched chain high molecular weight hydrocarbons.

Preferred film-forming polymers include organosiloxane resins comprising R₃SiO_1/2"M" monomer, R₂SiO "D" monomer, RSiO_3/2"T" monomer, SiO₂The "Q" monomers satisfy the relationship R in mutual proportions_nSiO_(4-n)/2Wherein n has a value of 1.0 to 1.50 and R is methyl. Note that a small amount up to 5% of silanol or alkoxy functionality may be present in the resin structure as a result of the treatment. The organosiloxane resin must be solid at about 25 ℃ and have a molecular weight of from about 1,000 to about 10,000 g/mole. The resin is soluble in organic solvents such as toluene, xylene, isoparaffins, and cyclosiloxanes or volatile carriers, meaning that the resin is not fully crosslinked, which renders the resin insoluble in the volatile carrier. Particularly preferred resins include repeating monofunctional groups or R₃SiO_1/2"M" monomer and tetrafunctional or SiO₂"Q" monomers, other known "MQ" resins as described in Krzysik, U.S. Pat. No. 5,330,747, 7/19, 1994, which is incorporated herein by reference. In the present invention, the ratio of "M" to "Q" functional monomers is preferably about 0.7, with n having a value of 1.2. Organosiloxane resins such as those commercially available, e.g., from Wacker Silicones Corporation of Adrian Michigan under the trade names Wacker 803 and 804, and g.e.1170-002 from general electric.

Other materials used to enhance abrasion or transfer resistance include trimethylated silica. Suitable silicas of this type and cosmetic compositions containing them are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,800,816 to Brieva et al, which is incorporated herein by reference.

Emulsifier

The compositions of the present invention may comprise one or more emulsifiers, for example, to enhance the formation and stability of the composition. The compositions of the present invention typically comprise from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3% of one or more emulsifiers.

The hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (herein HLB) of the emulsifier is chosen to optimize the reduction of interfacial tension between two phases having significantly different surface tensions. For systems that include a polarity in the non-polar range, the HLB typically ranges from about 4 to about 8. For polar-to-non-polar systems, the HLB range is typically from about 12 to about 20. HLB factors are described in Wilkinson and Moore, "Harry's cosmetics", 7th Ed.1982, p.738, and Schick and Fowkes, surface Science Series, Vol.2, "solvent Properties of surface Solutions", p 607, both of which are incorporated herein by reference. Exemplary emulsifiers include those disclosed in c.t.f.a.cosmetic ingredient Handbook, 3rd ed., Cosmetic and fragance assn., inc., Washington d.c. (1982) pp.587-592; and Remington's pharmaceutical Sciences, 15th Ed.1975, pp.335-337; and McCutcheon's Volume 1, "Emulsifiers & Detergents", 1994, North American Edition, pp.236-239; all of which are incorporated herein by reference.

Particularly useful emulsifiers of the present invention include polydiorganosiloxane polyoxyalkylene copolymers. Such polymers are described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,268,499, which is incorporated herein by reference. Suitable such copolymers are well known, many of which are commercially available. One preferred such emulsifier is known under the CTFA name dimethicone copolyol. Preferred emulsifiers are also described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,143,722, which is incorporated herein by reference.

Another class of preferred emulsifiers are high molecular weight polymeric emulsifiers such as those effective in stabilizing glycol/polyol-in-hydrocarbon systems (e.g., commercially available Aarlacel P135 from Unichem).

Auxiliary solubilizer

The compositions of the present invention may include one or more auxiliary solubilizers, for example, to enhance the formation and stability of the composition. The auxiliary solubilizers serve in particular to bridge the compatibility of two substances which are normally incompatible, resulting in a single stable phase. Therefore, the use of an auxiliary solubilizer is particularly preferred in the single-phase electrostatically jettable compositions described herein. When a co-solubilizer is used, the compositions of the present invention typically comprise from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3% of the co-solubilizer.

A scale of Solubility parameters, such as "Solubility: effects in Product, Package, Pentration, and Preservation ", Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol.103, 10 months 1988. Based on the solubility parameters of two incompatible materials, a third material having a solubility parameter intermediate between the two incompatible materials may sometimes be found that is independently compatible with both materials. When these three substances are mixed, they may exhibit the properties of a single stable phase, which can be measured, for example, visually using an optical microscope.

The co-solubiliser may be a polar fluid, a non-polar fluid, a polar aprotic solvent or an amphiphilic substance, and is selected from such a wide variety of substances as to suit the needs of the two incompatible substances, resulting in a single phase.

Particularly useful co-solubilizers include the polydiorganosiloxane polyoxyalkylene copolymers described, including the polymers described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,268,499, and the surfactants disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,143,722. Dimethicone copolyols are preferred.

Preparation of the composition

Compositions useful in the methods of the present invention are generally prepared using conventional methods for preparing topical compositions known in the art. Such methods typically involve mixing the ingredients in one or more steps to a relatively homogeneous state, with or without the application of heat, cooling, application of vacuum, and the like.

Methods of providing cosmetic compositions and related methods of use

The present invention also relates to methods of making cosmetic compositions having desired tonal effects and/or variations. In one embodiment, a cosmetic composition having a desired color is prepared, the method comprising the step of adding at least two discrete color domains to the cosmetic composition, wherein each color domain contains at least one colorant. The color gamut is not readily discernible individually to the naked eye but is discernible in the cosmetic composition when viewed under magnification. In particular embodiments, the color of the cosmetic composition is substantially similar to the target color. In another embodiment, the color of the cosmetic composition has a spectrophotometric curve substantially similar to that of the target color. In yet another specific embodiment, the first derivative of the spectrophotometric curve of the cosmetic composition is substantially similar to the first derivative of the spectrophotometric curve of the target color. Another embodiment includes a method of providing a cosmetic composition suitable for delivery to a substrate to provide a coated cosmetic composition of the present invention. In addition, the present invention relates to methods of delivering any of the cosmetic compositions of the present invention to a substrate.

Applicants have additionally found that the compositions of the present invention can be used in a variety of applications to enhance the appearance of target substrates, including skin, oral mucosa, hair, nails, lips, and cuticles. Methods of use of the compositions disclosed and claimed herein include, but are not limited to: 1) methods of improving the natural appearance of skin; 2) methods of applying color cosmetics to skin, lips, and/or nails; 3) methods of providing ultraviolet protection to the skin, lips, and/or nails; 4) a method of masking the appearance of cellulite; 5) methods of preventing, retarding and/or controlling the appearance of oil-like appearance; 6) methods of modulating the feel and structure of skin; 7) methods of providing uniform skin tone; 8) methods of masking the appearance of spider vessels and varicose veins; 9) methods of masking the appearance of vellus hair on skin; 10) a method for covering blemishes or defects on the surface of human skin, including pimples, acne, senile scars, freckles, nevi, scars, under-eye bags, birthmarks, inflammatory sequelae, hyperpigmentation, etc.; 11) methods of enhancing or modifying the color of the skin, such as lightening, darkening, producing more pink, producing more yellow, reducing dullness, reducing paleness, reducing orange, making more shiny; 12) artificial browning method; 13) covering white spots; 14) covering skin damage resulting from trauma including cosmetic surgery, burns, skin strains, and the like; and 15) methods of masking wrinkles, fine lines, pores, uneven skin surfaces, and the like, each of the methods discussed herein comprising topically applying the claimed compositions to a target substrate, particularly skin.

The advantages and improvements of the compositions and methods of the present invention are illustrated by the following examples. These examples are merely illustrative and are not intended to limit or exclude other embodiments of the present invention.

Examples

The foregoing specific embodiments and examples are illustrative only and are not intended to limit the scope of the following claims. Other embodiments and advantages of the invention thus obtained will be apparent to those skilled in the art and are therefore within the scope of the invention as claimed.

Example 1

An exemplary cosmetic composition having separated color domains was prepared as follows (see curve a of fig. 1).

Components	Weight percent (%)
		1 st colloidal premix	50
FD&C Red 40 aluminum lake (nominally 38.5% reactive dye)	10
		Cyclodimethylsiloxane	39
Dimethicone copolyols and cyclomethicones	1
		Polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymers and cyclomethicones	50
		2nd colloidal premix	50
D&C yellow 10 aluminum lake (about 16% reactive dye)	10
		Cyclodimethylsiloxane	63.8
Dimethicone copolyols and cyclomethicones	1.2
		Polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymers and cyclomethicones	25

For each premix, the first three ingredients were mixed together using a mill and then added to the elastomer. The premixes are then mixed with each other and stored in packages.

Example 2

A comparable cosmetic composition mixture was prepared as follows (see fig. 1, curve B).

Components	Weight percent (%)
		D&C yellow 10 dye	0.8
FD&C red 40 dye	1.9
		Styrene/acrylate copolymer, sodium dioctyl sulfonate ccunite, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, butyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben and TiO2 (approximately 70% of the material)	7.3
Water (W)	84.1
		Glycerol	5
Xanthan gum	0.8

The last two components are slurried together and added to the mixture of the first four components, mixed and stored in a pack.

Examples 3 to 4

The colored cosmetic composition is prepared by mixing the following ingredients. Note that the premix of the colorants is prepared prior to formulating the target composition.

Composition (I)	Weight percent (%)
		Cyclopentasiloxane	Proper amount of
Titanium dioxide	7.5
		Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate	0.1
P-hydroxybenzoic acid ethyl ester	0.2
		Cyclodimethylsiloxane-Dimethicone crosslinked polymers	51
Silicone copolyols	3
		Benzyl alcohol	0.4
Coloring agent	10

The ratios of the various colorants are as follows:

polymer encapsulated colorants	Percentage of colorant microspheres	Particle size (microns) (mean or range)	Example 3	Example 4
					D&C Red 7 calcium lake	5	32 average	6 portions of	6 portions of
FD&C blue 1/TiO2	2.5/10	36 average	2 portions of	0 portion of
					FD&C blue 1/TiO2	2.5/10	38-75 range	0 portion of	2 portions of
FD&C yellow 5/TiO2	2.5/10	41 average	5 portions of	5 portions of

Example 5

The cosmetic composition is prepared by mixing the following ingredients.

Component 1-Start FD&C blue #1 lake wax capsule (Capsule Range: 32-53 and 53-106 μm)

Components	Subcomponent	Weight percent (%)
			A	Polyacrylamide, C13-C14 isoparaffin andlauryl polyoxyethylene ether-7	4
B	Blue wax capsule	26
			A	Water (W)	70

Component 2-Start FD&C yellow #5 lake wax capsule (Capsule Range: 32-53 and 53-106 μm)

Components	Subcomponent	Weight percent (%)
			A	Polyacrylamide, C13-C14 isoparaffin and laureth-7	4
B	Yellow wax capsule	26
			A	Water (W)	70

Component 1 and component 2 were mixed with each other in a ratio of 1: 1 as follows. Weigh and add the respective sub-ingredients of the a-components of component 1 and component 2 to the container. Mix with a spatula. Once the gel is formed, the subcomponents of the B component of components 1 and 2 are added.

Example 6

The cosmetic composition is prepared by mixing the following ingredients.

Components	Components	Weight percent (%)
			B	Cyclodimethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked copolymers	64.00
A	Cyclodimethylsiloxane	14.88
			A	Copolyols of cyclopentasiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane	0.32
A	Trimethylsiloxysilicate	0.80
	Colored capsule with particle size within 30-75 μm：
			C	Chromium hydroxide green	0.30
C	TiO2 (anatase)	13.95
			C	TiO2 (rutile)	1.77
C	D&C Red 27Al lake	0.28
			C	D&C yellow 10Al lake	2.51
C	D&C Red 7 calcium lake	1.19

Firstly, weighing and adding the components of the component A into a glass wide-mouth bottle; mix until the mixture is clear. The ingredients of component B were added and mixed with a spatula. Add ingredients of component C and mix with a spatula.

Examples 7 to 9

A colorant mixture was prepared by mixing the following ingredients together in a container. The colorant mixture may be used to replace other colorants added toIn any of the example compositions described herein.

	Example 7	Example 8	Example 9
				Colored capsule with particle size within 30-75 μm	(％)	(％)	(％)
Chromium hydroxide green	17.93	13.12	12.49
				D&C yellow 10	46.79	42.36	39.45
D&C Red 7 calcium lake	21.03	19.26	14.08
				D&C Red 27Al lake	6.86	7.66	7.13
68％TiO2	7.38	17.6	26.85

Claims (11)

1. A cosmetic composition having at least two discrete color domains characterized in that each discrete color domain comprises at least one colorant, wherein the color domains are not readily discernible individually to the naked eye but are discernible in the cosmetic composition when viewed under magnification.

2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein at least one of said color domains comprises a mixture of colorants.

3. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein at least one of the color domains comprises a colorant and a carrier.

4. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein at least one of the color domains comprises a mixture of colorants and a carrier.

5. The cosmetic composition of claim 3, wherein the carrier comprises a colloid.

6. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the color domains have an average size of about 5 μ ι η to about 500 μ ι η.

7. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the composition is selected from the following forms: powders, sticks, liquids, gels, emulsions, creams, and combinations thereof.

8. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the composition is suitable for delivery to a surface by a delivery device selected from the group consisting of: colloidal systems, delivery substrates, applicator pads, sponges, open-cell foams, brushes, wraps, mechanical spray devices, electrostatic spray devices, and printing devices.

9. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the color gamut provides a desired color to the composition, wherein a comparable physical mixture of the color gamut colorants provides a mixed color, wherein Δ E between the desired color and the mixed color is greater than 5, wherein Δ E ═ L [ [ (L ═ L_{Expectation of}-L_Mixing)²+(a_{Expectation of}-a_Mixing)²+(b_{Expectation of}-b_Mixing)²]^0.5Where L is a measure of the intensity of the color, a is a measure of the red and green contribution, and b is a measure of the yellow and blue contribution.

10. A cosmetic composition suitable for application to a substrate to provide an applied cosmetic composition, characterized in that the applied cosmetic composition comprises at least two discrete color domains, each color domain comprising at least one colorant, wherein the color domains are not readily discernible individually to the naked eye but are distinguishable within the cosmetic composition when viewed under magnification.

11. A method of providing a cosmetic composition exhibiting a desired color, characterized in that said method comprises the steps of: adding to the cosmetic composition at least two discrete color domains, each color domain containing at least one colorant, wherein the color domains are not readily discernible individually to the naked eye but are distinguishable within the cosmetic composition when viewed under magnification.