HK1050985B - Lingerie articles produced from cylindrical knitting comprising retaining characteristics - Google Patents

Description

Undergarment product made of a cylindrical knit fabric with retention properties

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a supportive undergarment having at least one molded area to retain and provide support capacity for at least one raised area of the body.

Background

Of course, these articles are mainly brassieres and briefs, both the cups and the parts covering the buttocks basically having mechanical properties which are such as to have a supporting function and even to lift the breasts and buttocks of the user.

In the field of undergarments, there are two problems that manufacturers have yet to solve: on the one hand, maximum comfort is ensured and, on the other hand, optimum support and retention functions are provided. The previous problems were first addressed for brassieres, but the idea of using the actual structure of the panties to conform to the contour of the buttocks and support them according to a method similar to that applied to the breasts is relatively new.

Traditionally, the undergarment is made by cutting the fabric into pieces and then sewing them together, particularly in the areas where three-dimensional volumes are to be created, such as the cups. In order to improve the comfort of wearing, it is sought to reduce the sewing as much as possible, in particular because the sewing thread gives rise to a sharp increase in thickness and irritation when it comes into contact with the skin. Adhesion techniques have also been developed and applied to the field to reduce or eliminate these sutures.

For example, EP 0809945 discloses a brassiere made of a material containing hot-melt fibres, the different parts of which are assembled to each other by thermal welding, so as to finally form the brassiere.

This eliminates the sewing process, but the plurality of adhesive regions, particularly the lower portion of the brassiere around the chest, present protrusions which press elastically against the skin, with a great effect on the wearing comfort.

To overcome this drawback, brassieres have been developed which are made with only one tubular knitted fabric around them. In fact, these brassieres often do not have cups for the breasts and are designed for women with small breasts or for sports women, which compress the breasts rather than support them. Also, the panties made of tubular knitted fabric do not have any means to support or lift the buttocks, although these panties do provide good peripheral compression properties.

If the cups have a three-dimensional shape without sewing together the pieces of fabric, the support characteristics and adaptability to different frame sizes are achieved with textile fibers that are flexible and have variable elongation. For example, the use of heat deformable fibers enables the cups or hip regions to be heat molded to have a three dimensional configuration that can accommodate the breasts or hips.

However, molding fibers alone is not sufficient, since it is important to ensure mechanical strength in order to support and hold these parts of the body. Generally, this mechanical strength is not only required in the area where the buttocks or breasts are supported, but is also imparted to the undergarment as a whole, taking into account the stresses that are applied to different parts of the article day after day. Thus, it is desirable to ensure that a certain strength is maintained at the back joint of the brassiere, which also stresses as the user's chest moves.

Another essential characteristic is the resistance to washing, which is sometimes carried out at high temperatures, which has an effect on the permanence of the mechanical properties of the fibers.

This is why it is desirable to have a fabric lining which also fulfils the above criteria/limitations, at least in certain areas, in particular the resistance and elasticity criteria, and it is particularly important that it cannot be fastened to the outer fabric by sewing, but still exhibits the ability to stretch in a controlled manner when applied.

Disclosure of Invention

This is the main object of the present invention.

In general, as mentioned above, the invention relates to a tubular knitted article for the manufacture of a supporting underwear article comprising at least one molding zone for the formation of a three-dimensional volume for holding and supporting at least one raised area of the human body, the tubular knitted article being constituted by a first heat-deformable extensible material and having ribs constituting one edge of said article for wrapping around the body, the final shape of the underwear article being obtained by starting the shearing of the free edge of the tubular knitted article opposite the ribs, characterized in that each molded three-dimensional zone is lined with at least one internal adhesive liner constituted by a second heat-deformable extensible material, one surface of which is coated with a heat-reactive adhesive, the knitted article and the liner having on the one hand a heat-deformable or elastic elongation coefficient and on the other hand the adhesive having an activation temperature such as to allow the deformation of these materials upon heating of the molding zone, so that these materials acquire a three-dimensional shape without the thermobonded connection being affected, said first and second materials retaining their supporting and retaining capacity after moulding.

The article of the invention has maximum comfort due to the use of tubular knitted fabric and the use of adhesive bonding, while also having breast-supporting properties, which makes it possible to manufacture brassieres suitable for various busts, including for example the requirements of maximum size of the E-or F-shaped cups.

While the support characteristics do relate to the thickness of the textile bi-layer, these characteristics are primarily due to the strict selection of materials for the bi-layer textile material and the binder, which make them suitable in time to meet mechanical strength requirements, as well as to address some of the manufacturing-related problems.

It is therefore of utmost importance that the two-layer textiles are both compatible with each other in terms of elongation properties and remain bonded to each other during the thermoforming process. It is also noted that in day to day use of the product, elastic elongation and contraction is commonly referred to.

According to the tests, the elongation coefficients of the materials used for the knitted fabric and the liner must exhibit a difference in the range of about 0 to 140%, each fabric having to be able to withstand an elongation of greater than or equal to 40%. This is a condition for ensuring good mechanical strength for molding. Elongation is defined in the art as the percentage of elongation and deformation of a material relative to its unstretched state, resulting from a linear force of 3N per centimeter.

If the above value is not satisfied, there is a possibility that one of the materials slips relative to the other, and thus the adhesion between the adhesive/textile is broken at the time of molding, resulting in the disbonding between the two materials.

With regard to the criteria for selecting suitable materials, it should be noted that materials with too great an elongation are excluded, since, although these materials can be subjected to a correct moulding operation, they do not at all guarantee the mechanical strength required for supporting the breast or the buttocks afterwards.

In fact, according to the test results, the first and second materials should be constituted by a mixture of fibers comprising at least 7% synthetic fibers. Specifically, polyester fibers are suitable.

It is desirable to blend synthetic fibers having an elongation coefficient with natural fibers, such as cotton fibers, that do not elongate at all or stretch very little. If the extensible fibers are properly positioned or aligned in the loops, it is the connections formed by the knitted loops that allow the fabric to stretch.

Preferably, the first and second materials are made from a blend of polyamide and elastane.

The mixture can be suitably elastically elongated and thermally deformed to provide mechanical strength that can impart suitable stability to the product, the same whenever and wherever possible.

Of course, one of the key techniques of the present invention is that the adhesive, if not present, may not secure the liner. During moulding, the double-layer textile must be bonded under heat, the principle being that certain fibers are given a definite elongation, the product not being elastically stretched when cooled. Furthermore, this adhesion should not change due to continuous washing, even at high temperatures.

Numerous studies and experiments have shown that the bonding material can be selected from polyamide or polyurethane adhesives. The activation temperature of the binder is a criterion for selection and in principle should not be adversely affected by hot moulding operations at temperatures of 175 ℃ to 195 ℃.

More precisely, one possibility is to use binders consisting of mixtures of copolyamides whose activation temperature is 165 ℃ to 195 ℃.

When polyurethane is used, the activation temperature is 185 ℃ to 195 ℃.

For example, the tests on materials at lower activation temperatures of 140 ℃ to 150 ℃, even up to 165 ℃, have presented a problem of debonding due to the separation of the binder from the substrate during molding.

In addition to these temperature issues, the choice of binder material depends on what material is used to bond with the woven layer. In this connection, selected copolyamides and polyurethane mixtures are effective.

It should also be noted that the copolyamide-based binder is applied in a repetitive pattern in spots on one surface of the lining. This form of application has a double advantage: it avoids making the liner thicker and keeps the liner breathable. In the case of using a polyurethane adhesive, which is more suitable for a finer molding process, the adhesive is coated on the surface of the liner in the form of a continuous film.

According to one preferred use, the invention relates to a brassiere made from a tubular knitted fabric having ribs forming a bottom band to wrap around the breast, the cup areas being lined with an internally bonded front panel and molded to the shape of the breast.

Obviously, a cup area is meant to refer to the interior of the cup and its closest perimeter, which is preferably the area joining the cups.

The zone joining the cups also comprises a central element, i.e. a triangular piece of fabric made of non-extensible material, interposed between said front panel and the knitted fabric in the zone between the panels. The central member, which stiffens the area between the breasts, shares the supporting role, in particular preventing horizontal deformation of the breast room.

Preferably, one surface of the central member is coated with an adhesive capable of adhering it to the knitted fabric. More preferably, the binder is the same as the binder material used for binding the front panel and the knitted fabric.

The stiffening element is mounted with the same benefits as when the front panel is used as a liner, i.e. without the added thickness of the stitching, the adhesive applied allows the material to breathe, etc.

In a possible embodiment, the brassiere of the invention can also be designed so that each cup comprises a reinforcement inserted in a compartment between the front panel and the knitted fabric, said compartment defining the lower contour of the cup.

More precisely, the compartment is made of a tubular textile without stitching, the shape of which matches that of the reinforcement and is sewn to the front panel.

In fact, the fact that the support strip made as described above is sewn to the adhesive surface of the front panel means that the stitches are not visible on the front side of the product. Thus, due to the inventive liner, substantially no additional thickness is added using the support tape, and the user feels less of the presence of the reinforcement. This construction is thus extremely advantageous, both with a significant increase in comfort and with a particularly good support due to the presence of the reinforcement.

In addition to a brassiere, the invention also relates to a method for manufacturing a brassiere from a tubular knitted fabric, which is made of a first heat-deformable extensible material and has ribs forming a brassiere bottom, characterized in that the method comprises the steps of:

-drawing each upper contour of the brassiere using stitches of different configuration for said each contour when knitting the tubular knitted fabric;

-bonding an inner lining of a second heat-deformable, extensible material in the region of the cups by thermo-compression at a temperature of 165 ℃ -195 ℃;

-heat moulding the cups at a temperature of 175-195 ℃;

-cutting the brassiere along the contour on the tubular knitted fabric;

-joining the front and rear portions of the cut cups.

In this way, during the knitting, the brassiere is designed on the basis of the tubular knitted fabric, which is very advantageous for the subsequent cutting operation, and the final design of the product can be obtained.

According to one possibility, the upper contour of the brassiere is hemmed and sewn in an elastic operation. What is mainly concerned is the profile of the shoulder strap, the width of which is thus limited, making the appearance of the shoulder strap less noticeable.

In order to make the process more convenient in practice, the above steps are carried out flat (gluing, moulding), the base tubular knitted fabric is cut at the back junction, adding the back joint with the hook and loop system.

In the method of the invention, in order to obtain the above-mentioned product, the lining is a front panel, the surface of which, bonded to the knitted fabric, faces beforehand a triangular central piece of inextensible material placed in the area between the cups. The central member itself is also previously coated with a layer of adhesive on the surface which is not bonded to the front panel. Finally, for brassieres with reinforcements, an additional step is incorporated into the method, namely the sewing of a tubular textile material, not sewn, onto the surface of the liner to be bonded to the knitted fabric, said tube being intended to receive the reinforcement which defines the lower contour of the cup.

The invention is not intended to be used only for brassieres but also for briefs, which consist of a tubular knitted fabric with a rib around the waist of the human body, characterized in that the hip region is reinforced with at least one internally bonded lining and is moulded into the shape of the hip.

The problem of making briefs is roughly the same as that of making bras, although the mechanical constraints are established and not large.

In this case, the degree of moulding is generally less than that required for brassieres having thicker cups, which requires a partial lining in the buttocks and its immediate periphery, which can be selectively applied during moulding.

Drawings

The invention will be described in detail below with reference to the attached drawing figures, wherein:

FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a tubular knitted fabric on which the contours of a brassiere have been drawn;

FIG. 2 is a front panel to be bonded to the knitted fabric of FIG. 1 in a breast cup contour;

fig. 3 shows the bonding of the front panel in the cup area on a knitted fabric cut in the direction of the tubular knitted fabric, which is unfolded flat;

FIG. 4 is a finished brassiere; and

fig. 5 shows a tubular knitted fabric on which the outline of the panties is drawn.

Detailed Description

Referring now to fig. 1, tubular knitted fabric 1 comprises a rib 2 which later forms the bottom edge of the brassiere (see fig. 4), which has a very good elasticity, since it is a knitted structure with a negative texture (false rib) produced directly by a knitting machine. The "tension" of the rib can be adjusted, i.e. elasticity imparted thereto.

As can be seen in figure 1, the upper contour of the brassiere defines cups 3, 4, front portions 5, 6 of the shoulder straps and rear portions 7, 8 of the shoulder straps, the front and rear portions actually meeting at rib 2.

Fig. 2 shows a front panel 9 or liner to which a less thick tubular textile 10, 11 is sewn, said tubular textile 10, 11 itself having no stitches in order to prevent thickening and irritation of the breast skin. These cylinders are made of thin thread and have an extremely dense mesh so as to prevent the reinforcing members (not shown) inserted therein from coming out of the stitches. A central member (a non-stretchable triangular piece of material) 12 is bonded to the surface of the tubular textile 10, 11 which receives the reinforcement member between the breasts.

According to one possibility, the knitted fabric is cut, at the junction of the rear shoulder straps 7, 8, and it is spread out flat (see fig. 3) in order to adhere the front panel 9. The front panel is bonded so that the tubular textile 10, 11 containing the reinforcement and the central member 12 are interposed between the front panel 9 and the knitted fabric 1.

Referring now to figure 4, the bra is formed with elastic edges of the shoulder straps 5, 6, 7, 8 which are connected together at 13, 14 in a known manner. In addition, back tabs 15, 16 are connected to knitted fabric 1, and the back tabs can be fixed to each other by various means.

The securing means may be adhesive, welding, stitching, etc.

Finally, fig. 5 shows a tubular knitted fabric 20 on which stitches of the knitting, which differ from the rest of the knitted fabric 20, draw the contour 21 of the panty. In this case, the rib 22 wraps over the waist of the user. Hereby, the parts between the legs can also be made with different knitted stitches and/or with different materials in order to maintain hygiene, comfort, etc.

The above description is by way of example only and is not intended to limit the present invention. Rather, the description includes variations and methods that are within the ability of one of ordinary skill in the art.

Claims (23)

1. A tubular knitted fabric for use in the manufacture of a supporting undergarment comprising at least one molding region for forming a three-dimensional volume for holding and supporting at least one raised area of the body, the tubular knitted fabric being formed of a first heat-deformable extensible material having ribs forming one edge of said article for elastic wrapping around the body, the final shape of the undergarment being obtained by initiating shearing at the free edge of the tubular knitted fabric opposite the ribs, characterized in that each molded three-dimensional region is lined with at least one internal adhesive lining consisting of a second heat-deformable extensible material, one surface of which is coated with a heat-reactive adhesive, the knitted fabric and the lining having a heat-deformable or elastic elongation coefficient on the one hand and the adhesive having an activation temperature on the other hand, so as to deform these materials upon heating of the molding region, so that these materials acquire a three-dimensional shape without the thermobonded connection being affected, said first and second materials retaining their supporting and retaining capacity after moulding.

2. The tubular knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein elongation coefficients of materials for the knitted fabric and the back lining must exhibit a difference in the range of 0 to 140%, and each fabric must have an elongation of 40% or more.

3. The tubular knitted fabric of claim 1, wherein the first and second materials are comprised of a fiber blend containing at least 7% synthetic fibers.

4. The tubular knitted fabric according to claim 3, characterized in that the synthetic fiber is a polyester material.

5. The tubular knitted fabric of claim 3, wherein the first and second materials are comprised of a blend of polyamide and elastane.

6. The tubular knitted fabric of claim 1, wherein the binder material is selected from amides.

7. The tubular knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the binder material is a mixture of copolyamides having an activation temperature of 165 ℃ to 195 ℃.

8. The tubular knitted fabric according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that an adhesive material is coated on one surface of the dotted lining arranged in a repeated pattern.

9. The tubular knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the adhesive material is a polyurethane adhesive having an activation temperature of 185 ℃ to 195 ℃.

10. The tubular knitted fabric according to claim 6, 7 or 9, wherein an adhesive material is applied to the surface of the liner in the form of a continuous film.

11. A brassiere made from a tubular knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7 or claim 9, characterized in that the tubular knitted fabric has a frame forming a base to enclose the circumference of the brassiere, the cup areas being lined with an internally bonded front piece and moulded in the shape of the breasts.

12. The brassiere according to claim 11, wherein a central member made of non-stretchable fabric is inserted between the front panel and the knitted fabric in the region between the cups.

13. The brassiere according to claim 12, wherein one surface of said center piece is coated with an adhesive material capable of adhering it to the knitted fabric.

14. The brassiere according to claim 13, wherein said adhesive material is the same as the adhesive material used to bond the front panel to the knitted fabric.

15. The brassiere according to claim 11, wherein each cup includes a reinforcement member inserted in a compartment between the front panel and the knitted fabric, said compartment defining a lower contour of the cup.

16. The brassiere according to claim 15, characterized in that said compartments are made of tubular textile without stitching, having a shape matching that of said reinforcements and being sewn to the front panel.

17. A short pant made of the tubular knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7 or 9, wherein the knitted fabric has ribs for wrapping around the waist of a human body, a hip region is reinforced with at least one inner bonded liner, and the hip region is molded in a hip shape.

18. A method of forming a brassiere from a tubular knitted fabric formed of a first heat deformable stretchable material having ribs forming a bottom perimeter of the brassiere, the method comprising the steps of:

-drawing each upper contour of the brassiere using stitches of different configuration for said each contour when knitting the tubular knitted fabric;

-bonding an inner lining of a second heat-deformable, extensible material in the region of the cups by thermo-compression at a temperature of 165 ℃ -195 ℃;

-heat moulding the cups at a temperature of 175-195 ℃;

-cutting the brassiere along the contour on the tubular knitted fabric;

-joining the front and rear portions of the cut cups.

19. The method of forming a brassiere according to claim 18, wherein the upper contour of the brassiere is hemmed and sewn in an elastic operation.

20. The method of forming a brassiere according to claim 18 or 19, wherein the base tubular knitted fabric is cut at the back junction, the back junction being provided with a hook and loop system.

21. The method of forming a brassiere according to claim 18 or 19, wherein said liner is a front panel having a surface bonded to the knitted fabric facing a triangular center piece of inextensible material placed in the area between the cups.

22. The method of forming a brassiere according to claim 21, wherein a surface of said center piece not bonded to said front panel is coated with a layer of adhesive.

23. The method of manufacturing a brassiere according to claim 18 or 19, in which a tubular textile fabric without stitching is sewn to the surface of the lining to be bonded to the knitted fabric, said tube being intended to receive a reinforcement defining the lower contour of the cup.