GB2550229B - A cosmetic composition for the temporary reshaping of hair - Google Patents

Description

A cosmetic composition for the temporary reshaping of hair [0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a higher-viscosity cosmetic composition for hair setting or for the temporary reshaping of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, which despite the high viscosity has an excellent applicability or distributability and moreover a cooling effect.

[0002] The temporary creation of hairstyles for a longer time period up to a number of days normally requires the use of setting active substances. Hair treatment agents used for a temporary shaping of the hair therefore play an important role. Suitable agents for the temporary reshaping typically contain synthetic polymers and/or waxes as a setting active substance. Agents for supporting the temporary reshaping of hair can be produced, for example, as a hair spray, hair wax, hair gel, or hair foam.

[0003] The most important property of an agent for the temporary reshaping of hair, also called a styling agent hereinafter, is to give the treated fibers the greatest possible hold in the new modelled shape, i.e., a shape imposed on the hair. This is also referred to as a strong hairstyle hold or a high degree of hold of the styling agent. The hairstyle hold is determined substantially by the type and amount of the employed setting active substances, but the other components of the styling agent may also have an effect.

[0004] In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must satisfy a wide range of further requirements. These can be divided roughly into properties on the hair, properties of the particular formulation, e.g., properties of the foam, gel, or sprayed aerosol, and properties related to the handling of the styling agent, particular importance being attached to the properties on the hair. Mention can be made in particular of humidity resistance, low tackiness (tack), and a balanced conditioning effect. Furthermore, a styling agent should be universally usable, if possible, for all hair types and be gentle to the hair and skin.

[0005] In order to satisfy the different requirements, many synthetic polymers for use in styling agents have already been developed as setting active substances. The polymers can be divided into cationic, anionic, nonionic, and amphoteric setting polymers. Alternatively or in addition, waxes are used as setting active substances. The polymers and/or waxes when used on hair ideally form a polymer film or a film that, on the one hand, gives the hairstyle a strong hold but, on the other, is sufficiently flexible not to break under stress.

[0006] Hair waxes and pastes have gained increasing popularity with consumers in recent years, because a flexible and reshapeable hold can be achieved with products of this kind. These are usually available commercially in tins or jars or as sticks. Hair waxes and pastes normally contain vegetable, animal, or mineral waxes as the shaping component. For use, these products are often rubbed first in the hands and then distributed on the hair. A good hold of the hair is produced by these hair waxes based on natural raw materials. Nevertheless, the hair waxes on the market do not yet completely satisfy the wishes of users with respect to simple application and easy distribution on the hair. Thus, rubbing on the hands requires either the use of gloves or a subsequent intensive cleaning of the hands to remove product residues with a greasy feel. Furthermore, a very uniform distribution of the product on the hair is only difficult to achieve and requires a great deal of time. Styling agents with a lower viscosity such as hair gels usually have a better distributability. In particular in the case of hair waxes and pastes with a rather high wax proportion, the formed film can become readily brittle and so-called film plaques can form, i.e., residues that detach as the hair moves and give the impression that the user of the particular styling agent has dandruff.

[0007] EP 0868898 A1 discloses wax-containing styling agents with a specific combination of emulsifiers; exemplary embodiments of styling agents are disclosed that contain water and ethanol as the cosmetic carrier, the water content being above 50% by weight.

[0008] An object of the present invention was to provide wax-containing, higher-viscosity cosmetic compositions for hair reshaping and setting such as, for example, hair waxes and hair pastes, which are notable for their good film-forming and/or setting properties, which if possible form no visible residues and in particular can be easily applied to hair and distributed in the hair.

[0009] This was achieved according to the invention by a composition according to claim 1.

[0010] The following is provided by the present invention: 1. A cosmetic composition for the temporary reshaping of keratinic fibers, which contains: (a) at least one wax with a melting point above 40°C in a total amount of 10 to 20% by weight, (b) at least one emulsifier in a total amount of 2 to 5% by weight, (c) at least one film-forming polymer in a total amount of 3 to 10% by weight, (d) ethanol in a total amount of 25 to 40% by weight, and (e) water in a total amount of 10 to 40% by weight, wherein the weight data in each case refers to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. 2. The cosmetic composition according to point 1, wherein the at least one wax (a) is selected from vegetable waxes, microcrystalline wax, and mixtures thereof. 3. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points, wherein the at least one wax (a) is selected from carnauba wax, (INCI: Copernicia Cerifera Cera), Myrica Cerifera

Fruit Wax (INCI), Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera (INCI), beeswax (INCI: Beeswax Cera Alba), lanolin (INCI: Lanolin), microcrystalline wax, and in particular mixtures thereof, preferably of carnauba wax, (INCI: Copernicia Cerifera Cera), Myrica Cerifera Fruit Wax (INCI), Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera (INCI), microcrystalline wax, and in particular mixtures thereof. 4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points, wherein 50% by weight or more of the total amount of wax, preferably 70% by weight to 90% by weight of the total wax amount, has a melting point in the range of 45 to 60°C. 5. The cosmetic composition according to point 5, wherein the rest of the wax amount is formed by waxes with a melting point of 80°C or higher, preferably 80 to 90°C. 6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points, wherein the at least one emulsifier (b) is selected from nonionic emulsifiers, in particular from adducts of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, adducts of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and 1 to 5 mol of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. 7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points, wherein the at least one film-forming polymer is at least one vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer, the ratio of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) to vinyl acetate (VA) preferably being 50:70 to 30:50, more preferably about 60:40. 8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points, wherein the composition furthermore contains at least one care component. 9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding points, wherein the composition is present as a hair wax, paste, lotion, or clay. 10. The cosmetic composition according to point 9, wherein the cosmetic composition is produced as a stick. 11. A cosmetic, nontherapeutic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of points 1 to 10 for the temporary reshaping of keratinic fibers. 12. A method for the temporary reshaping of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, in which the cosmetic composition according to any one of points 1 to 10 is applied to keratinic fibers. 13. The method according to point 12, wherein the cosmetic composition is produced as a stick and wherein the application of the cosmetic composition to the hair occurs directly from the stick to the hair.

[0011] The present invention relates to higher-viscosity styling agents such as hair waxes, pastes, or lotions, where ‘higher-viscosity’ is taken to mean that the styling agents retain their form and do not flow at room temperature (about 25°C), but are usually ductile.

[0012] It was determined surprisingly within the scope of the present invention that by including ethanol in specific amounts, in combination with other essential components in specific amounts, excellent distribution of the higher-viscosity styling agents in the hair can be achieved. Furthermore, the styling agents of the invention have no visible residues during use on hair.

[0013] The combination of ingredients according to the invention with the necessary, preferably high ethanol content in particular enables the production of styling agents that change their texture upon contact with the hands such that the initially wax- or paste-like styling agents become softer or melt in the hands and become liquid. This property of the styling agents of the invention can also be called a hybrid-like texture.

[0014] It was found surprisingly, furthermore, that a cooling effect occurs upon rubbing of the styling agents of the invention between the hands. Said cooling effect is experienced upon rubbing between the hands and is regarded as refreshing particularly at warmer temperatures. The cooling effect is optionally also experienced immediately after application to the head, however, which imparts a feeling of freshness.

[0015] Other usually required properties of styling products such as long-lasting hold, stiffness, and low tackiness are retained in this case.

[0016] The term keratinic fibers according to the invention covers pelts, wool, and feathers but in particular human hair.

[0017] The styling agent of the invention contains as component (a) at least one natural or synthetic wax that has a melting point above 40°C. The styling agent of the invention contains the at least one wax in a total amount of 10 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the styling agent.

[0018] Used as natural or synthetic waxes according to the invention can be solid paraffins or isoparaffins, vegetable waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, esparto grass wax, Japan wax, cork wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxes, and animal waxes such as, e.g., beeswax and other insect waxes, spermaceti wax, shellac wax, wool wax, and uropygial fat, furthermore mineral waxes such as, e.g., ceresin and ozokerite, or petrochemical waxes such as, e.g., petroleum jelly, paraffin waxes, polyethylene or polypropylene microwaxes, and polyethylene glycol waxes. It can be advantageous to use hydrogenated or hardened waxes. Furthermore, chemically modified waxes can be used, in particular hard waxes, e.g., montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, and hydrogenated jojoba waxes.

[0019] Suitable furthermore are the triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C1S-C3O fatty acids such as, e.g., hydrogenated triglyceride fats (hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl tribehenate or glyceryl tri-12-hydroxystearate, furthermore synthetic full esters of fatty acids and glycol (e.g., Syncrowachs®), or polyols having 2-6 C atoms, fatty acid monoalkanolamides with a C12-C22 acyl group and a C2-C4 alkanol group, esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 80 C atoms and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 C atoms, including, e.g., synthetic fatty acid/fatty alcohol esters such as stearyl stearate or cetyl palmitate, esters of aromatic carboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids (e.g., 12-hydroxystearic acid) and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 C atoms, lactides of long-chain hydroxycarboxylic acids, and full esters of fatty alcohols and di- and tricarboxylic acids, e.g., dicetylsuccinate ordicetyl/stearyl adipate, as well as mixtures of said substances.

[0020] The wax components can also be selected from the group of esters of saturated, unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 14 to 44 C atoms and saturated, unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 14 to 44 C atoms, provided the wax component or the totality of wax components are solid at room temperature. The wax components can be selected, for example, from the group of C1s-C3e alkyl stearates, C10-C40 alkyl stearates, C2-C40 alkyl isostearates, C20-C40 dialkyl esters of dimeric acids, C18-C38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearates, and C20-C40 alkyl erucates; further C3o-C5o alkyl beeswax and cetearyl behenate can be used. Silicone waxes, for example, stearyl trimethylsilane/stearyl alcohol are optionally also advantageous. Preferred wax components are the esters of saturated, monohydric C2o-Ceo alcohols and saturated C8-C30 monocarboxylic acids, a C20-C40 alkyl stearate being preferred in particular that is available under the name Kesterwachs® K82H from the company Koster Keunen Inc.

[0021] Natural, chemically modified, and synthetic waxes can be used alone or in combination.

The teaching of the invention therefore also encompasses the combined use of multiple waxes. Furthermore, a number of wax mixtures, optionally mixed with further additives, are also commercially available. Those having the designations "Spezialwachs 7686 OE" (a mixture of cetyl palmitate, beeswax, microcrystalline wax, and polyethylene with a melting range of 73-75°C; manufacturer: Kahl & Co), Polywax® GP 200 (a mixture of stearyl alcohol and polyethylene glycol stearate with a melting point of 47-51 °C; manufacturer: Croda), and "Weichceresin® FL 400" (a vaseline/vaseline oil/wax mixture with a melting point of 50-54°C; manufacturer: Parafluid Mineralolgesellschaft) are examples of mixtures used according to the invention.

[0022] Preferably, wax (a) is selected from carnauba wax (INCI: Copernicia Cerifera Cera), Myrica Cerifera Fruit Wax (INCI), Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera (INCI), beeswax (INCI: Beeswax Cera Alba), lanolin (INCI: Lanolin), microcrystalline wax, as well as in particular mixtures thereof.

[0023] Particularly preferably, wax (a) is selected from vegetable waxes, in particular carnauba wax (INCI: Copernicia Cerifera Cera), Myrica Cerifera Fruit Wax (INCI), and/or Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera (INCI), and microcrystalline wax, as well as in particular mixtures thereof.

[0024] The wax or wax components should be solid at 25°C and should melt according to the invention in the range of >40°C. In preferred embodiments of the invention, 50% by weight or more of the total wax amount (a), preferably 70% by weight to 90% by weight of the total wax amount (a), has a melting point in the range of 45 to 60°C. It is preferred further that the remaining amount of wax is formed by waxes with a melting point of 80°C or higher, preferably 80 to 90°C.

[0025] The composition of the invention contains at least one emulsifier as a further essential component (b). Anionic, cationic, nonionic, and ampholytic surface-active compounds suitable for use on the human body may be used in principle as emulsifiers. The ampholytic surface-active compounds comprise zwitterionic surface-active compounds and ampholytes. Nonionic emulsifiers are preferred.

[0026] In particular, adducts of ethylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols, to fatty acids, to fatty acid alkanolamides, to fatty acid monoglycerides, to sorbitan fatty acid monoglycerides, to fatty acid glycerides, to methylglucoside monofatty acid esters, to polydimethylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof can be used as nonionic emulsifiers.

[0027] The at least one emulsifier (b) is preferably selected from nonionic emulsifiers such as adducts of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 30, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, adducts of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and 1 to 5 mol of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 30, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. Examples of particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are compounds with the INCI names: Steareth-2, Steareth-21, or PPG-5-Ceteth-20, and in particular combinations thereof.

[0028] The styling agent of the invention contains the at least one emulsifier in a total amount of 2 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the styling agent.

[0029] The cosmetic composition (styling agent) of the invention contains furthermore as essential component (c) at least one film-forming polymer, which is different from wax component (a). Examples are cationic, anionic, nonionic, or amphoteric polymers. The styling agent of the invention contains the at least one film-forming polymer (c) in a total amount of 3 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the styling agent.

[0030] Examples are acrylamide/ammonium acrylate copolymer, acrylamides/DMAPA acrylates/methoxy PEG methacrylate copolymer, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylates copolymer, acrylates/acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/acrylamide copolymer, acrylates/ammonium methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/t-butylacrylamide copolymer, acrylates copolymer, aery lates/C 1-2 succinates/hydroxyacrylates copolymer, acrylates/lauryl acrylate/stearyl acrylate/ethylamine oxide methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymer, acrylates/octylacrylamide/diphenyl amodimethicone copolymer, acrylates/stearyl acrylate/ethylamine oxide methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/VA copolymer, acrylates/VP copolymer, adipic acid/diethylenetriamine copolymer, adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine copolymer, adipic acid/epoxypropyl diethylenetriamine copolymer, adipic acid/isophthalic acid/neopentyl glycol/trimethylolpropane copolymer, allyl stearate/VA copolymer, aminoethylacrylate phosphate/acrylates copolymer, aminoethylpropanediol acrylates/acrylamide copolymer, aminoethylpropanediol-AMPD-acrylates/diacetoneacrylamide copolymer, ammonium VA/acrylates copolymer, AMPD-acrylates/diacetoneacrylamide copolymer, AMP-acrylates/allyl methacrylate copolymer, AMP-acrylates/CpC^ alkyl acrylates/C^Cs alkyl acrylamide copolymer, AMP-acrylates/diacetone-acrylamide copolymer, AMP-acrylates/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, Bacillus/rice bran extract/soybean extract ferment filtrate, bis-butyloxyamodimethicone/PEG-60 copolymer, butyl acrylate/ethylhexyl methacrylate copolymer, butyl acrylate/hydroxypropyl dimethicone acrylate copolymer, butylated PVP, butyl ester of ethylene/MA copolymer, butyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer, calcium/sodium PVM/MA copolymer, corn starch/acrylamide/ sodium acrylate copolymer, diethylene glycolamine/epichlorohydrin/piperazine copolymer, dimethicone crosspolymer, diphenyl amodimethicone, ethyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer, hydrolyzed wheat protein/PVP crosspolymer, isobutylene/ethylmaleimide/hydroxyethylmaleimide copolymer, isobutylene/MA copolymer, isobutylmethacrylate/bis-hydroxypropyl dimethicone acrylate copolymer, isopropyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer, lauryl acrylate crosspolymer, lauryl methacrylate/glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer, MEA-sulfite, methacrylic acid/sodium acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonate copolymer, methacryloyl ethyl betaine/acrylates copolymer, octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, PEG/PPG-25/25 dimethicone/acrylates copolymer, PEG-8/SMDI copolymer, polyacrylamide, polyacrylate-6, polybeta-alanine/glutaric acid crosspolymer, polybutylene terephthalate, polyester-1, polyethyl acrylate, polyethylene terephthalate, polymethacryloyl ethyl betaine, polypentaerythrityl terephthalate, polyperfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, Polyquaternium-1, Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35,

Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50,

Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-56, polysilicone-9, polyurethane-1, polyurethane-6, polyurethane-10, polyvinyl acetate, polyvinyl butyral, polyvinylcaprolactam, polyvinylformamide, polyvinyl imidazolinium acetate, polyvinyl methyl ether, potassium butyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer, potassium ethyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer, PPG-70 polyglyceryl-10 ether, PPG-12/SMDI copolymer, PPG-51/SMDI copolymer, PPG-10 sorbitol, PVM/MA copolymer, PVP, PVP/VA/itaconic acid copolymer, PVP/VA/vinyl propionate copolymer, rhizobian gum, rosin acrylate, shellac, sodium butyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer, sodium ethyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, Sterculia urens gum, terephthalic acid/isophthalic acid/sodium isophthalic acid sulfonate/glycol copolymer, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan, VA/crotonates copolymer, VA/crotonates/methacryloxybenzophenone-1 copolymer, VA/crotonates/vinyl neodecanoate copolymer, VA/crotonates/vinyl propionate copolymer, VA/DBM copolymer, VA/vinyl butyl benzoate/crotonates copolymer, vinylamine/vinyl alcohol copolymer, vinyl caprolactam/VP/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, VP/acrylates/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, VP/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, VP/DMAPA acrylates copolymer, VP/hexadecene copolymer, VP/VA copolymer, VP/vinyl caprolactam/DMAPA acrylates copolymer, yeast palmitate, styrene/VP copolymer, cellulose ethers, such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, as they are sold, for example, under the trademark Culminalund Benecel (AQUALON).

[0031] Siloxanes are suitable furthermore as film-forming polymers. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood to be compounds whose boiling point at normal pressure is above 200°C. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes, and polydialkylsiloxanes that contain amine and/or hydroxy groups.

[0032] Glycosidically substituted silicones may also be used.

[0033] Homopolyacrylic acid (INCI: Carbomer), which is commercially available under the name Carbopol® as different types, is suitable as a film-forming polymer.

[0034] The film-forming polymer is preferably selected from nonionic polymers, in particular vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl ester copolymers. Particularly preferred is a vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer, the ratio of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) to vinyl acetate (VA) being preferably 50:70 to 30:50, more preferably about 60:40. These are available, for example, under the trademark Luviskol (BASF), e.g., Luviskol VA 64 and Luviskol VA 73.

[0035] The composition of the invention contains a combination of ethanol and water as a cosmetic carrier. The cosmetic composition of the present invention therefore contains ethanol as an essential component. The ethanol content of the composition of the invention is 25 to 40% by weight. It was determined surprisingly that upon inclusion of ethanol, preferably in higher amounts, a melting effect of wax-containing styling agents can be achieved, so that waxes with a low melting point below 40°C need not be used. An excellent applicability of the composition of the invention is achieved thereby. The melting effect is evident in that the initially wax- or paste-like styling agents become softer or melt in the hands or become liquid, which improves the applicability. The melting effect can be so pronounced, however, particularly at the preferred higher ethanol contents, that application of the styling agent of the invention is possible without contact with the hands. The cosmetic composition can therefore be produced as a stick, which enables application directly to the hair, without contact with the hands. "Melting" can then occur even with light pressure on the hair.

[0036] At the same time, a cooling effect is also achieved by the ethanol content. This cooling effect can occur when the styling agents of the invention are rubbed between the hands, which is regarded as refreshing particularly at warmer temperatures. The cooling effect, however, is experienced optionally also immediately after application to the head, which imparts a feeling of freshness to the head.

[0037] The water content of the cosmetic composition of the invention is 10 to 40% by weight.

[0038] In order to intensify the above-described cooling effect of the cosmetic compositions of the invention, furthermore cosmetically acceptable components can be added that have a cooling effect, for example, by evaporation, such as isopropanol, or have a cooling action by acting on receptors in the skin, for example, menthol and menthol derivatives. An example of a compound that causes a cold sensation in skin receptors is menthyl (Ethylamido Oxalate (INCI)), which is available commercially, for example, under the name Frescolat® X-Cool (Symrise).

[0039] Care substances in particular such as, for example, oils, can be cited as additional suitable aids and additives.

[0040] Oils suitable according to the invention are selected from esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which can be hydroxylated. These include cetyl-2-ethylhexanoate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate (e.g., Eutanol® G 16 S), 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (e.g., Cegesoft® C 24), and 2-ethylhexyl stearate (e.g., Cetiol® 868). Also preferred are isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid-2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate, and ethylene glycol dipalmitate. Cetyl-2-ethylhexanoate is particularly preferred.

[0041] Further oils preferred according to the invention are selected from natural and synthetic hydrocarbons, particularly preferably from mineral oils, paraffin oils, C18-C30 isoparaffins, in particular isoeicosane, polyisobutenes and polydecenes, which are obtainable, for example, under the name Emery® 3004, 3006, 3010 or under the name Ethylflo® from Albemarle or Nexbase® 2004G from Nestle, furthermore selected from C8-C1S isoparaffins, in particular from isodecane, isododecane, isotetradecane, and isohexadecane, as well as mixtures thereof, and 1,3-di-(2-ethylhexyl)cyclohexane (obtainable, e.g., under the trade name Cetiol® S of BASF).

[0042] Further oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C8-C22 alkanols. Particularly preferred are benzoic acid-C12-C15-alkyl esters, e.g., obtainable as the commercial product Finsolv® TN, benzoic acid isostearyl esters, e.g., obtainable as the commercial product Finsolv® SB, ethylhexyl benzoate, e.g., obtainable as the commercial product Finsolv® EB, and benzoic acid octyldodecyl esters, e.g., obtainable as the commercial product Finsolv® BOD.

[0043] Further oils preferred according to the invention are selected from fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are unsaturated or branched and saturated or branched and unsaturated. The branched alcohols are often also referred to as “Guerbet alcohols,” since they are obtainable via the Guerbet reaction. Preferred alcohol oils are 2-hexyldecanol (Eutanol® G 16), 2-octyldodecanol (Eutanol® G), 2-ethyhexyl alcohol, and isostearyl alcohol.

[0044] Further preferred oils are selected from mixtures of Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol esters, e.g., the commercial product Cetiol® PGL (2-hexyldecanol and 2-hexyldecyl laurate).

[0045] Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from triglycerides (= triesters of glycerol) of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C8-C30 fatty acids. The use of natural oils can be particularly preferred, e.g., amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, para nut oil, pecan nut oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, soy oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil, wild rose oil, wheat germ oil, and the liquid components of coconut oil and the like. Synthetic triglyceride oils are also preferred, however, in particular capric/caprylic triglycerides, e.g., the commercial products Myritol® 318, Myritol® 331 (BASF), or Miglyol® 812 (Huis) having unbranched fatty acid esters, as well as glyceryl triisostearin having branched fatty acid groups.

[0046] Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C2-C10 alkanols, particularly diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl)adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl/di-n-butyl/dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate, and di-(2-hexyldecyl)succinate.

[0047] Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the adducts of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units to mono- or polyhydric C8-C22 alkanols such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol, e.g., PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether (Witconol® APM).

[0048] Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from adducts of at least 6 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide units to mono- or polyhydric C3-C22 alkanols such as glycerol, butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol, which can be esterified if desired, e.g., PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid® AP), PPG-9 butyl ether (Breox® B25), PPG-10 butanediol (Macol® 57), PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol® E), and glycereth-7 diisonoanoate.

[0049] Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from C8 to C22 fatty alcohol esters of monovalent or polyvalent C2 to C7 hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, and salicylic acid. Such esters based on linear C14/15 alkanols, e.g., C12 to C15 alkyl lactate, and on C12/13 alkanols, branched in the 2-position, can be obtained under the trademark Cosmacol® from the company Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co., Hamburg, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol® ESI, Cosmacol® EMI, and Cosmacol® ETI.

[0050] Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from symmetrical, asymmetrical, or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with C3-C22 alkanols, C3-C22 alkanediols, or C3-C22 alkanetriols, e.g., dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC), or the esters according to the teaching of DE 19756454 A1, in particular glycerol carbonate.

[0051] Other cosmetic oils, which may be preferred according to the invention, are selected from the esters of dimers of unsaturated C12-C22 fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monohydric linear, branched, or cyclic C2-C18 alkanols or with polyhydric linear or branched C2-Ce alkanols.

[0052] Further cosmetic oils suitable according to the present invention are selected from silicone oils that include, e.g., dialkyl- and alkylarylsiloxanes such as, for example, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, and methylphenylpolysiloxane, but also hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, and decamethyltetrasiloxane. Volatile silicone oils, which may be cyclic, can be preferred such as, e.g., octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, as well as mixtures thereof such as those contained, e.g., in the commercial products DC 244, 245, 344, and 345 of Dow Corning. Also suitable are volatile linear silicone oils, in particular hexamethyldisiloxane (L2), octamethyltrisiloxane (L3), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4), as well as any two- or three-component mixtures of L2, L3, and/or L4, preferably mixtures such as those contained, e.g., in the commercial products DC 2-1184, Dow Corning® 200 (0.65 cSt), and Dow Corning® 200 (1.5 cSt) of Dow Corning. Preferred nonvolatile silicone oils are selected, from higher-molecular-weight linear dimethylpolysiloxanes, obtainable commercially, e.g., under the name Dow Corning® 190, Dow Corning® 200 Fluid, having kinematic viscosities (25°C.) in the range of 5 to 100 cSt, preferably 5 to 50 cSt, or also 5 to 10 cSt, and dimethylpolysiloxane having a kinematic viscosity (25°C) of approximately 350 cSt.

[0053] It can be extraordinarily preferred according to the invention to use mixtures of the aforementioned oils.

[0054] The agent can also contain as a care substance, for example, at least one protein hydrolysate. Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid-, base-, or enzyme-catalyzed degradation of proteins. The term ‘protein hydrolysates’ according to the invention is also understood to be total hydrolysates, as well as individual amino acids, and mixtures of different amino acids. The molar weight of protein hydrolysates usable according to the invention is between 75 (the molar weight of glycine) and 200,000; the molar weight is preferably 75 to 50,000 daltons, and very especially preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

[0055] The agent of the invention can contain further at least one vitamin, provitamin, vitamin precursor as a care substance. The vitamins, provitamins, and vitamin precursors that are usually assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F, and H are preferred according to the invention.

[0056] Like the addition of glycerol and/or propylene glycol as well, the addition of panthenol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed during use of the agent of the invention. In preferred embodiments, the cosmetic composition contains propylene glycol, for example, in a total amount of 0.5 to 3% by weight.

[0057] The cosmetic composition of the present invention can contain furthermore neutralizing agents or pH adjusting agents for adjusting the pH. Examples of neutralizing agents used in styling products are primary amino alcohols such as Aminomethyl Propanol (INCI), which is commercially available, for example, under the name AMP-ULTRA® PC, for example, AMP-ULTRA® PC 2000.

[0058] The agents of the invention can contain further cosmetically acceptable preservatives. An example of a preservative that can be used with preference is 2-phenoxyethanol.

[0059] The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be produced in forms typical for the temporary reshaping of hair, for example, as a wax, paste, lotion, or clay. The styling agents of the invention are preferably supplied in tins or jars, particularly preferably as a stick, which permits direct application of the styling agent to the hair.

[0060] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic, nontherapeutic use of cosmetic compositions of the invention for the temporary reshaping of keratinic fibers, in particular of human hair, and to a method for the temporary reshaping of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, in which the cosmetic composition of the invention is applied to keratinic fibers. Preferred in this case is a direct application of the styling agent to the hair without contact with the hands. This is enabled in particular if the styling agent is produced in the form of a stick.

Overview table [0061] The composition of some preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are shown as Formula 4, 4a, 4b and 4c in the following tables (data are given as a solids content and in percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, unless otherwise stated). Formulas 1,2, 3,1a, 2a, 3a, 1b, 2b, 3b, 1c, 2c and 3c are included for comparison purposes only.

[0062] “Misc.” according to the invention is understood to be other conventional components of styling products, for example, perfumes/scents, care components, preferably cetyl ethylhexanoate, and/or propylene glycol.

Examples [0063] The following styling agents were prepared:

[0064] The quantitative data in the tables are given in percentages by weight of the particular raw material, based on the total composition.

[0065] In the case of the styling agents from Examples 1 and 2, the consistency changes upon longer contact with the hands, therefore upon rubbing, in the direction of "liquid," which was described as "melting" by subjects. In the case of both styling agents, this change in texture proceeded with a sense of cooling.

[0066] All prepared styling agent compositions exhibited excellent applicability and distributability in the hair and revealed no residues on the treated hair.

Claims (19)

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition for the temporary reshaping of keratinic fibers, which contains: (a) at least one wax with a melting point above 40°C in a total amount of 10 to 20% by weight, (b) at least one emulsifier in a total amount of 2 to 5% by weight, (c) at least one film-forming polymer in a total amount of 3 to 10% by weight, (d) ethanol in a total amount of 25 to 40% by weight, and (e) water in a total amount of 10 to 40% by weight, wherein the weight data in each case refers to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one wax (a) is selected from vegetable waxes, microcrystalline wax, and mixtures thereof.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one wax (a) is selected from carnauba wax (INCI: Copernicia Cerifera Cera), Myrica Cerifera Fruit Wax (INCI), Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera (INCI), beeswax (INCI: Beeswax Cera Alba), lanolin (INCI: Lanolin), microcrystalline wax, and mixtures thereof.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one wax (a) is selected from carnauba wax, (INCI: Copernicia Cerifera Cera), Myrica Cerifera Fruit Wax (INCI), Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera (INCI), microcrystalline wax, and mixtures thereof.

5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein 50% by weight or more of the total wax amount has a melting point in the range of 45 to 60°C.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein 70% by weight to 90% by weight of the total wax amount has a melting point in the range of 45 to 60°C.

7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 5 or 6, wherein further the rest of the wax amount is formed by waxes with a melting point of 80°C or higher.

8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 5 or 6, wherein further the rest of the wax amount is formed by waxes with a melting point of 80 to 90°C.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one emulsifier (b) is selected from nonionic emulsifiers.

10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one emulsifier (b) is selected adducts of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, adducts of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and 1 to 5 mol of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one film-forming polymer is at least one vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer.

12. The cosmetic composition according to claim 11, wherein the ratio of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) to vinyl acetate (VA) is 50:70 to 30:50.

13. The cosmetic composition according to claim 11, wherein the ratio of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) to vinyl acetate (VA) is about 60:40.

14. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition furthermore contains at least one care component selected from an oil, a protein hydrolysate, a vitamin, a provitamin and a vitamin precursor.

15. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is present as a hair wax, paste, lotion, or clay.

16. The cosmetic composition according to claim 15, wherein the composition is produced as a stick.

17. A method for the temporary reshaping of keratinic fibers, in which the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 is applied to keratinic fibers.

18. The method according to claim 17, wherein the keratinic fibers comprise human hair.

19. The method according to claim 18, wherein the cosmetic composition is produced as a stick and the cosmetic composition is applied directly from the stick to the hair.