GB2025228A - Hair treatment compositions - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a hair treatment composition comprising a cationic water-soluble film-forming resin and an anionic water-soluble film-forming resin and water, the resins being capable of interacting with each other in the presence of water to form an anionic-cationic complex which is precipitable onto the hair in the presence of calcium ions.

Description

SPECIFICATION Hair treatment product The invention relates to a composition for the treatment of human hair which is particularly suited to setting the hair in a desired style.

It is to be understood that a hairsetting aid, which usually comprises a film forming resin, is a product which is applied to the hair in order to hold the hair in a desired style. It is not usual to rinse the hair with water after application of a hairsetting aid, as the setting components would thereby be removed.

It has now been discovered that by employing particular film forming resins, a hair treatment composition can be obtained which when applied to the hair and the hair subsequently rinsed, still imparts significant hold to the hair.

Accordingly, the invention provides a hair treatment composition comprising a cationic watersoluble film-forming resin and an anionic watersoluble film-forming resin and water, the resins being capable of interacting with each other in the presence of water to form an anionic-cationic complex which is precipitable onto the hair in the presence of calcium ions.

The hair treatment composition accordingly contains at least two film-forming resins of which one is a cationic resin and the other an anionic resin. Each resin will normally be water-soluble and would when used independently in a leave-on mode possess the ability to form a water-soluble film on the hair which when dry would assist in holding the hair in a desired style.

The anionic and cationic resins however possess the ability to interact with each other in the presence of water to form a complex which when applied to the hair is capable of being precipitated onto the hair in the presence of calcium ions, in a manner which will resist subsequent rinsing with water, and which will hold the hair in a desired style when the hair is dried.

An example of a suitable cationic hairsetting resin is one selected from the class of resins defined as O alkyltrimethylammoniumchloride substituted anhydroglucose polymer of the formula:

wherein Rceii is the residue of an anhydroglucose unit, y is an integer having a value of from about 50 to about 20,000 and each R individually represents a substituentgroup of the general formula:

wherein: a is an integer having a value of from 2 to 3; b is an integer having a value of from 2 to 3; c is an integer having a value of from 1 to 3; m is an integer having a value of from zero to 10; n is an integer having a value of from zero to 3; p is an integer having a value of from zero to 10; q is an integer having a value of from zero to 1; R' is a member selected from the group consisting of

with the proviso that when q is zero then R' is -H;; R1, R2 and R3, taken invidually, represent a member selected from the group consisting of alkyl, aryl, aralkyl, alkaryl, cycloalkyl, alkoxyalkyl and alkoxyaryl radicals where each of R1, R2 and R3 can contain up to 10 carbon atoms, with the proviso that when said member is an alkoxyalkyl radical there are at least 2 carbon atoms separating the oxygen atom from the nitrogen atom, and with the further proviso that the total number of carbon atoms in radicals representated by R1, R2 and R3 is from 3 to 12 with the further proviso that when R1, R2 and R3 are taken together the nitrogen atom to which R1, R2 and R3 are attached can be a component of a heterocyclic ring selected from the group consisting of pyridine, a-methylpyridine, 2,5-dimethylpyridine, 2,4,6trimethylpyridine, N-methylpiperidine, N-ethyl piperidine, N-methyl morpholine and N-ethyl morpholine; Xis an anion; V is an integer which is equal to the valence of X; the average value of n per anhydroglucose unit of said cellulose ether is from 0.01 to about 1; and the average value of m+p+q per anhydroglucose unit of said cellulose ether is from about 0.01 to about 4; A particularly preferred 0 - alkyl - trimethylammonium chloride substituted polymer is known as POLYMER JR-400 and is available from the Union Carbide Corporation. It is water soluble and, at a concentration of 1% and a temperature of 25"C, a viscosity of 400 cps is produced. A description of this type of polymer is to be found in US Patent 3,472,840.

A further example of a suitable cationic hairsetting resin is a polyamide condensate of adipic acid and diethylenetriamine in which epichlorohydrin has been reacted with secondary amine functions to give cationic azetidium groups.

The structure is:

A preferred polyamide condensate having this structure is DELSETTE 101 available from Hercules Co.

An example of a suitable anionic resin is potassium polymethacrylate having the structure:

A preferred example of an anionic resin of this type is VINAPOL 1640 which is a 35% by weight aqueous solution of low molecuiar weight potas sium polymethacrylate, and available from Vinyl Products Ltd.

The cationic and anionic resins should together form from 0.2 to 5%, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight of the composition.

The weight ratio of the cationic resin to the anionic resin is critical for obtaining maximum hairsetting results and can usually only be varied within a narrow range. This range which depends upon resins selected can be determined by measuring the increase in stiffness of hairset with the mixed resins, for example, by following the method set out below using the preferred resins POLYMER JR and VIN APOL 1640.

Evidence to support the use of both a cationic resin and an anionic resin with an evaluation of the necessary weight ratio of each resin that should be employed The unexpected benefit of using a mixture of a cationic resin and an anionic resin as herein defined as the hairsetting aid was shown by assessing the percent increase in stiffness of switches of virgin hair which had been treated with either or both resins in varying amounts.

Stiffness was measured by bending a switch of uncomed hair clamped at one end and free to move at the other. A fixed transducer in contact with the switch, at a point between its ends, measures the force required to move the free end of the switch through a fixed distance.

The stiffer more rod-like the hair, the greater the force required to bend it.

The stiffness of the dry switch in an untreated state is measured first, and then the stiffness of the same dry switch is measured after applying the product to be tested. Percentage increase in stiffness is given by the expression: [Force (treated) - Force (untreated)] x 100 Force (untreated) The results are shown in the following table in which aqueous solutions, containing a total resin concentration of 1% by weight, were applied to wet hair switches immediately following shampooing.

The switches were then well rinsed with tap water, dried and the percentage increase in stiffness recorded was as follows: Resin concentration (solidsJ %POLYMERJR +% + % VINAPOL 1640 weight ratio % increase in (cationic) (anionic) cationic:anionic stiffness 0.00 + 1.00 0 0.28 + 0.72 1:2.57 80 0.33 + 0.67 1:2.03 250 0.38 + 0.62 1:1.63 350 0.41 + 0.59 1:1.44 375 0.47 + 0.53 1:1.13 210 1.00 + 0.00 0 It is evident from these results show that not only do mixed resin systems set the hair whereas the individual components do not, but is is also clearly demonstrated that the ratio of the two resins in the composition are critical. In this case, the preferred ratio is 1:1.63 which gives the maximum increase in stiffness.

It is apparent that the cationic and anionic resins interact when they are mixed together in water to form a complex. It is this complex which in the presence of calcium ions is precipitated on and retained by the hair in a manner which resists subsequent rinsing with water.

The composition accordingly can contain a source of calcium ions for this purpose, or more conveniently reliance can be placed on the presence of calcium ions in the tap water, particularly hard tap water, which is used for rinsing the hair, after application of the hair treatment composition.

Evidence for the requirement for calcium ions to be present in order to obtain an effective set The requirement for calcium ions was demonstrated by setting switches of washed hair with a mixture of 0.6% POLYMER JR and 2.6% VINAPOL 1640 (0.91% solids) which had been applied to the hair and rinsed in wash water containing various concentrations of calcium ions. The switches were dried and the percentage increase in stiffness measured by the method described earlier.

Concentration ofCaCl % increase 2H2O in wash water in stiffness 0.00 /0 0 0.015% 190 0.03%.(82 ppm Ca4+) 300 0.05% 190 O.1OP/o 100 It can be seen from these results that a concentration of calcium ions expressed in terms of calcium chloride at a level of 0.030/c in the wash water gave the highest percentage increase in stiffness.

The hair treatment composition also comprises water as a solvent for the resins. Water miscible solvents such as industrial methylated spirit (largely ethanol) can also be employed in addition to water.

The hair treatment composition can also contain a conditioning agent.

It should be explained that a hair conditioner is a product which is applied to the hair, usually while the hair is in a wet state following shampooing, in order to enable the wet hair to be more easily combed out, and optionally to impart to the hair a glossy appearance when finally dry. Hair condition ers are generally rinse-off products and do not pos sess any significant ability to set the hair in a desired style.

It follows that in a hair conditioning and setting procedure, it is usually necessary to employ two separate products, the first to condition the hair and the second to set it, the former usually being substantially rinsed out with water before application of the latter which is not rinsed out.

Products have appeared on the market which claim to combine the attributes of both conditioning and setting, but in reality on in vitro testing under laboratory conditions, these products have been shown to be generally either good conditioning products which have poor hold properties, or good hairsetting products which have very limited conditioning properties.

A further aspect of the invention is therefore based on the realisation that by employing mixtures of particular film-forming resins together with a specially selected conditioning substance, a hair treatment composition can be obtained which combines the attributes of both conditioning and setting in a single treatment.

When a conditioning agent is incorporated in the hair treatment composition it is preferably a volatile hydrophobic conditioning agent. After deposition on the hair, a volatile conditioner such as this will evaporate from the hair as it dries, so that it does not detract from the functionality of the resins of the hair treatment composition.

An example of a suitable volatile hydrophobic conditioning agent is one selected from the class of volatile polydimethyl siloxanes.

The polydimethyl siloxanes that are particularly suitableforthe invention are those that have a boiling point in the range 99"C to 265"C. They can be linear but are preferably cyclic containing 4 or 5 (CH3)2SiO units. Suitable cyclic polydimethyl siloxanes are those available from Union Carbide under the designations VS 7207 and VS 7158, or linear polydimethyl siloxanes available from Dow Corning under the designation 200 fluid series. They all have a viscosity of from 0.65 to 5.0 centistokes.

The preferred cyclic polydimethyl siloxane is VS 7158 having the structure:

The preferred linear polydimethyl siloxane is one chosen from the 200 fluid series having the structure:

where n = 1 to 5.

Mixtures of the polydimethyl siloxanes can also be used.

A further example of a suitable volatile hyd rophobic conditioning agent is one selected from the class of volatile hydrocarbons having a boiling point in the range 99" to 265"C. They may be straight chain or branched chain hydrocarbons. Particularly suitable are the commercially available mixtures of hyd rocarbons known under the trade names ISOPARS and EXSOLS and available from Esso Chemicals Limited. These are stated by the suppliers to contain at least 75% by volume of isoparaffins.

Mixtures of volatile hydrocarbons with volatile polydimethyl siloxanes can also be used.

It is to be understood that this aspect of the invention is not restricted solely to these examples of commercially available volatile polydimethyl siloxanes and hydrocarbons.

The proportion of volatile hydrophobic conditioning agent employed will normally be up to 5% by weight of the composition. Preferably the conditioning agent will form from 0.1 to 5%, ideally 0.5 to 3 /O by weight of the composition.

The hair treatment composition can also contain other ingredients such as thickeners, suspending agents, perfume, colouring matter, preservative and other additives with specific functionalities.

It should however be noted that if such other ingredients are ionic in character, allowance must be made in selecting the appropriate cationic:anionic resin ratio. CARBOPOL is a particularly suitable suspending agent, but it is anionic and hence the cationic resin concentration must be increased to compensate for this. (CARBOPOL is a water-soluble polymer of acrylic acid cross-linked with about 1% of a polyalkyl ether of sucrose and having an average of about 5.8 alkyl groups for each sucrose molecule, the polymer having a molecular weight in excess of 1,000,000, and is available from Goodrich).

The hair treatment composition will normally be in the form of a simple lotion or gel, but it can also be provided as an aerosol spray. In this case, the filmforming resins, the volatile hydrophobic conditioning agent and water, will be present in an aerosol dispenser together with an aerosol propellent, usually a liquefied normally gaseous substance. Commonly used propellants are trichlorofluoromethane (Propellant 11) and dichlorodifluoromethane (Propellant 12) but others may be employed. Suitable propellants and propellant mixtures for use with the hair treatment composition are well-known to those in the art.

In accordance with a further aspect of the invention, a process is provided for treating human hair to condition it and to impart to it a desired style by applying to the hair a hair treatment composition as herein defined.

The invention is illustrated by the following Example.

A hair treatment composition according to the invention contained the following ingredients: % wlw Hairsetting components: cationic resin - Polymer JR 400 0.8 anionic resin - Vinapol 1640 (35% active) 2.6 Viscosity controller: Carbopol 941 0.2 Conditioner: volatile silicone VS 7158 2.5 Preservative: Formalin 0.2 Solvent: Water 93.7 The ability of this composition to function both as a conditioner and as a setting aid was compared with that of a conventional conditioner and a conventional setting aid.

Firstly, conditioning properties were assessed in vitro using switches of virgin hair, by wet combing, the results being recorded as percentage change using a Correx gauge.

The method of measuring combing resistance was as follows: A switch of virgin hair was first shampooed and then rinsed and finally blotted towel-dry. The switch was then combed with a hand held comb to which was attached a strain gauge (Correx). This recorded the maximum force applied during the comb stroke.

The hair switch was then treated with the hair treatment composition and rinsed with tap water (containing 80-100 ppm calcium ions). Thetowel-dried switch was then combed again.

In each treatment, 15 comb-strokes were made, for both untreated and treated switches, and the average of the maximum force of the last 10 comb strokes was recorded as the combing resistance.

The percentage change in combing resistance was expressed as [Force (treated) - Force (untreated)] x 100 Force (untreated) The results in this particular case were as follows: % change in combing resistance Hair treatment composition (as above) 30% reduction Conventional conditioner 35-60% reduction Conventional setting aid 10% increase Secondly, hairsetting properties were assessed in vitro using the same switches of virgin hair by measuring the percentage increase in stiffness before comb-out according to the method described hereinbefore. The results were as follows: % increase in stiffness Hair treatment composition (as above) 420 Conventional conditioner 0 Conventional setting aid 790 It should be noted that in both of the above tests, the conditioner and experimental product were each used in their recommended rinse-off manner, whilst the conventional setting aid was left on the hair. Had this setting aid also been rinsed-off, it would have had no setting effect nor any wet combing benefit.

It can be seen from these results that the hair treatment composition imparts both a significant conditioning effect (reduced combing resistance) and a significant setting effect (increase in stiffness) from one and the same treatment. Both of these attributes were not demonstrated by either the conventional conditioner or the conventional setting aid.

Claims (12)

1. A hair treatment composition comprising a cationic water-soluble film-forming resin, an anionic water-soluble film-forming resin, and water, the resins being capable of interacting with each other in the presence of water to form an anionic-cationic complex which is precipitable onto the hair in the presence of calcium ions.

2. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1, in which the cationic resin is an O - alkyl trimethylammonium chloride substituted polymer.

3. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1, in which the cationic resin is a polyamide condensate of adipic acid and diethylenetriamine.

4. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1, 2 or 3, in which the anionic resin is potassium polymethacrylate.

5. A hair treatment composition according to any preceding claim, in which the resins together comprise from 0.2 to 5%, preferably from 1 to 3 MO by weight of the composition.

6. A hair treatment composition according to any preceding claim, in which the composition further comprises a source of calcium ions.

7. A hair treatment composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising a volatile hydrophobic conditioning agent.

8. A hair treatment composition according to claim 7, in which the conditioning agent comprises a volatile polydimethyl siloxane.

9. A hair treatment composition according to claim 7, in which the conditioning agent comprises a volatile hydrocarbon.

10. A hair treatment composition according to claim 7,8 or 9, in which the volatile hydrophobic conditioning agent forms from 0.1 to 5% by weight of the composition.

11. A hair treatment composition according to any preceding claim and substantially as described herein.

12. Aprocessfortreating human hair which comprises applying to the hair a hair treatment composition according to any preceding claim.