FR3128120A1 - compositions, kits and methods for modifying the color of keratinous fibers - Google Patents

Abstract

C ompositions, kits and methods for modifying the color of keratinous fibers The disclosure relates to hair dye base compositions in the form of an emulsion or cream comprising an alkoxylated fatty alcohol, a fatty acid, a fatty alcohol, a buffering system, and optionally a thickening agent and/or a compound dye, hair color modifying compositions comprising the hair dye base, and kits and methods for modifying the color of keratinous fibers such as hair. Figure for abstract: NONE

Description

compositions, kits and methods for modifying the color of keratinous fibers

The present disclosure relates to a hair dye base in the form of an emulsion or cream comprising an alkoxylated fatty alcohol, a fatty acid, a fatty alcohol other than the alkoxylated fatty alcohol, a buffering system, and optionally a thickener and/or coloring compound, hair color modifying compositions comprising the hair dye base, and kits and methods for modifying the color of keratinous fibers, such as the hair.

CONTEXT

Changing or enhancing the appearance of hair is very popular with consumers, including for example changing hair color and/or imparting various properties, for example shine and conditioning of hair. Hair coloring typically involves bleaching, lightening and/or changing the color of hair by oxidative dyes, direct dyes and/or pigments providing a different shade or color and/or bleaching the hair.

Hair lightening, or hair bleaching, processes generally require the use of compositions that include at least one oxidizing agent to lighten the color of dark hair to lighter shades. When dyes or dye compounds such as oxidation dye precursors and/or direct dyes are present in these compositions, these may change or deposit color while lightening the hair color at the same time. Conventional hair coloring products are permanent dye compositions comprising oxidation dye precursors, which are also known as primary intermediates or couplers. These oxidation dye precursors are colorless or faintly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing agents, give rise to colored complexes through a process of oxidative condensation.

The change in pitch before and after application of a hair color modifying composition is typically assessed when lightening or bleaching hair. The degree or level of lightening or fading is determined by the variation. The term "tone" refers to the "finish" of a shade, including its degree of warmth or coolness, and is based on the classification of natural shades, a tone separating each shade from the shade immediately following or preceding it. . Tonal pitches or levels typically range from 1 (black) to 10 (light blonde), one unit usually corresponding to one tone. Accordingly, the higher the tone number, the lighter the shade and the greater the degree of discoloration.

Hair lightening or bleaching compositions may require one or more alkalizing agents, such as ammonia, an ammonia-generating compound, an amine and/or an ammonium-based compound. The alkalizing agent causes the hair shaft to swell, allowing small oxidative dye molecules to enter the cuticle and cortex before the oxidative condensation process is complete. The larger color complexes resulting from the oxidative reaction are then trapped inside the hair fiber, thus permanently modifying the color of the hair. Although such dyeing and/or color changing compositions can effectively alter hair color, such compositions can damage hair fibers and/or irritate the scalp due to excessively high alkalinity levels.

This damage and/or irritation may be exacerbated by treatment time. Typical processing times can range from thirty (30) minutes to forty-five (45) minutes or more. The longer the treatment time, the lighter the result on the hair and/or the more intense the color application. However, the longer the treatment time, the more the hair is typically damaged and/or the scalp irritated. There is therefore a need for compositions and methods for bleaching hair and/or depositing color on hair in an effective and/or improved manner, while avoiding excessive hair damage and/or irritation. of the scalp.

The use of new and additional ingredients and new combinations of ingredients is continually being researched in an attempt to lessen or avoid hair damage and/or scalp irritation, as well as to improve the cosmetic performance of hair bleaching and dyeing compositions. However, while achieving the desired safety and performance goals, the choice of ingredients or combinations of ingredients frequently poses challenges as they cannot adversely affect other cosmetic attributes. Ingredient combinations should be considered for attributes such as ease and uniformity of application, rheology properties or viscosity, stability of compositions, and/or color deposition and target shade formation, while weighing the disadvantages potentials such as increased damage and/or less healthy looking hair.

Thus, an object of the present disclosure is to provide new emulsion or cream hair dye base compositions which modify the color of the hair by bleaching or lightening the hair, and by depositing color on the hair, which require less treatment time, thus minimizing hair damage and overall minimizing other adverse effects.

SUMMARY

The present disclosure relates to compositions and methods for modifying hair color using a buffer system that can reduce processing times in hair color modification processes. While typical processing times are approximately thirty minutes to forty-five minutes, processing times for the compositions and methods involved are significantly reduced, ranging from approximately five to twenty minutes. Accordingly, the subject compositions and methods avoid and/or mitigate damage to the hair and/or scalp during hair lightening, while providing a much more efficient and rapid process. In various embodiments, the disclosed compositions and methods achieve a desired level of tone bleaching in reduced processing times. In other embodiments, the compositions and methods allow additional color to be deposited on the hair in reduced processing times.

In certain embodiments, the disclosure relates to a hair color base in cream or emulsion form comprising: (a) about 10% to about 30% alkoxylated fatty alcohols; (b) about 1% to about 8% fatty acids; (c) at least about 8% fatty alcohols other than alkoxylated fatty alcohols; and (d) a buffer system comprising: (i) about 0.1% to about 10% ammonium hydroxide; (ii) about 0.1% to about 5% ammonium bicarbonate; and (iii) optionally, about 0.5% to about 5% monoethanolamine, wherein the molar ratio of ammonium hydroxide to ammonium bicarbonate is at least about 1.5, for example about 1.5 to about 4, preferably about 1.5 to about 2, and all amounts are by weight, based on the total weight of the hair dye base. Optionally, the hair dye base may include additional components, for example thickeners and coloring compounds. In some embodiments, the coloring compounds are oxidation dye precursors, and are present in the hair dye base in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 5%. In some embodiments, the molar ratio of ammonium hydroxide to ammonium bicarbonate is about 1.75. The disclosure also relates to hair color modifying compositions comprising an oxidizing component, for example hydrogen peroxide, and the hair dye base.

In other embodiments, the disclosure relates to a hair color base in the form of a cream or emulsion comprising: (a) about 15% to about 25% alkoxylated fatty alcohols; (b) about 2% to about 6% fatty acids; (c) about 8% to about 15% fatty alcohols other than alkoxylated fatty alcohols; (d) a buffer system comprising: (i) about 2% to about 6%, for example about 3.5% to about 4.25%, ammonium hydroxide; (ii) about 0.25% to about 2.5%, for example about 0.5% to about 1.5%, ammonium bicarbonate; and (iii) optionally, about 0.5% to about 2.5%, eg, about 0.5% to about 1.5%, monoethanolamine; (e) at least one oxidation dye precursor; (f) and at least one thickening agent, in which the molar ratio of ammonium hydroxide to ammonium bicarbonate is between approximately 1.5 and approximately 4, preferably between approximately 1.5 and approximately 2, for example approximately 1 .75, and all amounts are by weight, based on the total weight of the hair dye base.

In other embodiments, the disclosure relates to a hair color base in the form of a cream or emulsion comprising: (a) about 15% to about 25% alkoxylated fatty alcohols; (b) about 1.5% to about 5.5% fatty acids; (c) about 8% to about 15% fatty alcohols other than alkoxylated fatty alcohols; and (d) a buffer system comprising: (i) about 2.5% to about 5% ammonium hydroxide; (ii) about 0.5% to about 1.5% ammonium bicarbonate; and optionally, about 0.5% to about 1.5% monoethanolamine; wherein the molar ratio of ammonium hydroxide to ammonium bicarbonate is at least about 1.5, preferably from about 1.5 to about 2, and wherein all amounts are by weight, based on total weight of hair dye base.

The hair dye base of the present disclosure may further comprise at least one additional component selected from thickening agents, coloring compounds or mixtures thereof.

The hair dye base of the present disclosure comprises at least one dye compound selected from oxidation dye precursors.

The disclosure also relates to hair color modifying compositions comprising an oxidizing component, for example hydrogen peroxide, and the hair dye base.

The disclosure also relates to hair color modifying compositions comprising an oxidizing component, for example hydrogen peroxide, and a hair dye base comprising: (a) about 10% to about 30% alkoxylated fatty alcohols; (b) about 1% to about 8% fatty acids; (c) at least about 10% fatty alcohols other than alkoxylated fatty alcohols; (d) a buffer system comprising: (i) about 0.1% to about 10%, for example about 1% to about 6%, ammonium hydroxide; (ii) about 0.1% to about 5%, for example about 0.25% to about 2.5%, ammonium bicarbonate; and (iii) optionally, about 0.5% to about 5%, eg, about 0.5% to about 2.5%, monoethanolamine; (e) at least one oxidation dye precursor; and (f) at least one thickening agent, wherein the molar ratio of ammonium hydroxide to ammonium bicarbonate is at least about 1.5, for example from about 1.5 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 2, or is about 1.75, all amounts being by weight, based on the total weight of the hair dye base.

In other embodiments, the disclosure relates to a hair color modifying composition comprising: an oxidizing agent, for example hydrogen peroxide; about 5% to about 15% alkoxylated fatty alcohols; about 0.5% to about 4% fatty acids; at least about 5% fatty alcohols other than alkoxylated fatty alcohols; about 0.05% to about 5%, for example about 1% to about 2.5%, ammonium hydroxide; about 0.05% to about 2.5%, for example about 0.25% to about 1%, ammonium bicarbonate; optionally, about 0.25% to about 2.5%, for example about 0.25% to about 1%, ammonium bicarbonate. 25% to about 2.5%, for example about 0.25% to about 1%, monoethanolamine; optionally at least one oxidation dye precursor; and optionally at least one thickening agent, wherein the molar ratio of ammonium hydroxide to ammonium bicarbonate is at least about 1.5, for example about 1.5 to about 4, preferably about 1 .5 to about 2, or is about 1.75, wherein all amounts are by weight, based on the total weight of the hair color modifying composition.

The disclosure also relates to methods of modifying the color of keratinous fibers by applying the hair color modifying compositions according to the disclosure to keratinous fibres, for example the hair. In various embodiments, the hair color modifying compositions are left on the hair for no longer than about 25 minutes, such as no more than about 20 minutes or no more than about 15 minutes. In a preferred embodiment, the hair color modifying compositions are not left on the hair for longer than about 10 minutes. Thus, the hair color modifying compositions can be removed, for example rinsed out, from the hair after a period of about 10 to about 15 minutes, or after about 10 minutes.

The disclosure also relates to kits comprising the hair dye base according to the disclosure in a first compartment or container, and comprising an oxidant component in a second compartment or container.

Claims (11)

Hair dye base in the form of a cream or an emulsion comprising:
(a) about 10% to about 30% alkoxylated fatty alcohols;
(b) about 1% to about 8% fatty acids;
(c) at least about 8% fatty alcohols other than alkoxylated fatty alcohols; And
(d) a buffer system comprising
about 0.1% to about 10% ammonium hydroxide;
about 0.1% to about 5% ammonium bicarbonate; And
optionally, about 0.5% to about 5% monoethanolamine;
wherein the molar ratio of ammonium hydroxide to ammonium bicarbonate is at least about 1.2, and
wherein all amounts are by weight, based on the total weight of the hair dye base. Hair dye base according to claim 1, comprising at least one dye compound chosen from oxidation dye precursors. A hair dye base according to any of claims 1-2, wherein the molar ratio of ammonium hydroxide to ammonium bicarbonate is between about 1.5 and about 4, between about 1.5 and about 3.5, between about 1.5 and about 3, between about 1.5 and about 2.5, between about 1.5 and about 2, between about 1.2 and about 2.5, between about 1.2 and about 2.25, about 1.2 and about 2, about 1.2 and about 1.8, about 1.5 and about 2.5, about 1.5 and about 2.25, about 1.5 and about 2, about 1.5 and about 1.8, about 1.65 and about 2.5, about 1.65 and about 2.25, about 1.65 and about 2, or about 1.65 and about 1.8 . Hair dye base in the form of a cream or an emulsion comprising:
(a) about 10% to about 30% alkoxylated fatty alcohols, preferably about 12% to about 30%, about 12% to about 25%, or about 12% to about 22%, d about 18% to about 30%, about 18% to about 28%, or about 18% to about 25%, preferably about 18% to about 22%;
(b) about 1% to about 7% fatty acids, preferably about 1% to about 6% or about 1% to about 5%, more preferably about 2% to about 7% , from about 2% to about 6%, or from about 2% to about 5%, more preferably from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3% to about 6%, or from about 3% to about 5%;
(c) about 8% to about 20% fatty alcohols other than alkoxylated fatty alcohols, preferably about 8% to about 18%, about 8% to about 15%, about 8% to about 13%, or about 8% to about 12%, more preferably about 9% to about 20%, about 9% to about 18%, about 9% to about 15%, of about 9% to about 13%, or about 9% to about 12%, more preferably about 10% to about 20%, about 10% to about 18%, about 10% to about 15%, about 10% to about 13%, or about 10% to about 12%;
(d) a buffer system comprising
about 1% to about 7% ammonium hydroxide, preferably about 1% to about 6%, more preferably about 2% to about 5.75% or about 2.5% to about 5.5%, more preferably about 3% to about 5%;
about 0.1% to about 3.5% ammonium bicarbonate, preferably about 0.15% to about 3%, about 0.2% to about 2%, or about 0.25 % to about 1.75%, more preferably about 0.5% to about 1.5%, most preferably about 0.75% to about 1.25%; And
about 0.1% to about 3% monoethanolamine, preferably about 0.25% to about 2.5%, more preferably about 0.3% to about 2%, most preferably d about 0.5% to about 1.5%;
(e) at least one dye compound, preferably chosen from oxidation dye precursors; And
(f) optionally at least one thickening agent,
wherein the molar ratio of ammonium hydroxide to ammonium bicarbonate is between about 1.5 and about 4, preferably between about 1.5 and about 3.5 or about 1.5 and about 3, more preferably between about 1.5 and about 2.5 or about 1.5 and about 2, most preferably between about 1.6 and about 1.8; And A hair color modifying composition comprising a hair dye base according to any one of claims 1 to 4 and at least one oxidant component. Process for the preparation of a composition for modifying the color of keratinous fibres, preferably hair, comprising mixing a hair dye base according to any one of claims 1 to 4 with an oxidizing component comprising an oxidizing agent at a hair dye base: oxidant composition mixing ratio of about 1:1, about 1:2, about 1:3, about 1:4, or about 1:5, preferably about 1:1, about 1: 2, or about 1:3, more preferably about 1:1 or about 1:2. Hair color modifying composition comprising:
an oxidant component which is an oxidant composition comprising hydrogen peroxide, and
a hair dye base comprising:
(a) about 2% to about 30%, about 5% to about 15%, preferably about 6% to about 14%, more preferably about 7% to about 13% or about 8% about 14%, most preferably about 9% to about 11% alkoxylated fatty alcohols;
(b) about 0.2% to about 8%, about 0.5% to about 4%, preferably about 0.5% to about 3%, about 1% to about 4%, or about 1% to about 3 %, more preferably about 1.5% to about 4%, about 1.5% to about 3%, or about 2% to about 4%, more preferably about 2% to about 3% fatty acids ;
(c) at least about 2%, at least about 5%, preferably from about 5% to about 10%, from about 5% to about 7.5%, or from about 5% to about 6.5 %, more preferably about 5.5% to about 10%, about 5.5% to about 7.5%, or about 5.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably most notably from about 5% to about 6% or from about 5.5% to about 6% fatty alcohols other than alkoxylated fatty alcohols;
(d) a buffer system comprising
about 0.02% to about 10%, about 1% to about 6%, or about 0.05% to about 5%, preferably about 0.5% to about 3% or about 0.75% to about 2.5%, more preferably about 1% to about 2.5% or about 1.25% to about 2.25%, more preferably about 1.25% to about 2% ammonium hydroxide;
about 0.02% to about 5%, or about 0.25% to about 2.5%, about 0.05% to about 2.5%, preferably about 0.05% to about 1.25% or about 0.1% to about 1.25%, more preferably about 0.1% to about 1% or about 0.2% to about 1%, most preferably about 0.25% to about 0.75 % ammonium bicarbonate; And
optionally, from about 0.05% to about 5%, or from about 0.5% to about 2.5% monoethanolamine;
(e) at least one oxidation dye precursor; And
(f) optionally, at least one thickening agent,
wherein the molar ratio of ammonium hydroxide to ammonium bicarbonate is between about 1.5 and about 4, preferably between about 1.5 and about 3, more preferably between about 1.5 and about 2.5 , most preferably between about 1.5 and about 2, or is about 1.65, about 1.7 or about 1.75, and
wherein all amounts are by weight, based on the total weight of the hair color modifying composition,
wherein the hair color modifying composition has a pH greater than 7, preferably from about 8 to about 11.5, more preferably from about 8.5 to about 11, from about 9 to about 10.5, or about 9.5 to about 10.5, more preferably about 9.5 to about 10.25 or about 9.75 to about 10. A hair color modifying composition, comprising:
an oxidizing agent;
about 3.25% to about 10% alkoxylated fatty alcohols, preferably 3.75% to about 6.25%, more preferably about 4% to about 6% or about 4.25% about 5.75%, most preferably about 4.5% to about 5.5%;
about 0.2% to about 3% fatty acids, preferably about 0.25% to about 2.5% or about 0.5% to about 2%, more preferably about 0 .5% to about 1.5%, most preferably about 0.5% to about 1.25%;
at least about 2% fatty alcohols other than alkoxylated fatty alcohols, preferably about 2% to about 3.75%, more preferably about 2.25% to about 3.75%, such most preferably about 2.5% to about 3.75%;
about 0.5% to about 1.5% ammonium hydroxide, preferably about 0.5% to about 1.25%, more preferably about 0.6% to about 1.4%;
about 0.025% to about 0.75% ammonium bicarbonate, preferably about 0.06% to about 0.63%, more preferably about 0.1% to about 0.5%, most preferably about 0, 1% to about 0.38%;
optionally about 0.025% to about 0.38% monoethanolamine, preferably about 0.1% to about 0.38%;
at least one dye compound, preferably chosen from oxidation dye precursors; And
optionally, at least one thickening agent,
wherein the molar ratio of ammonium hydroxide to ammonium bicarbonate is at least about 1.5, preferably ranges from about 1.5 to about 4, more preferably about 1, 5 to about 3, more preferably about 1.5 to about 2.5, most preferably about 1.5 to about 2, and
wherein all amounts are by weight, based on the total weight of the hair color modifying composition,
wherein the hair color modifying composition has a pH greater than 7, preferably between about 8 and about 11.5, more preferably between about 8.5 and about 11, between about 9 and about 10.5 , or between about 9.5 and about 10.5, more preferably between about 9.5 and about 10.25 or between about 9.75 and about 10. Hair color modifying composition comprising:
an oxidizing agent;
about 5% to about 15%, or about 3% to about 10% alkoxylated fatty alcohols;
about 1% to about 2.5%, or about 0.5% to about 1.75% fatty acids;
about 4% to about 8%, or about 2.5% to about 6% fatty alcohols other than alkoxylated fatty alcohols;
about 1.5% to about 2.25%, or about 1% to about 1.5% ammonium hydroxide;
about 0.05% to about 1% ammonium bicarbonate;
about 0.05% to about 1.25%, or about 0.03% to about 1% monoethanolamine;
at least one oxidation dye precursor;
at least one thickening agent; And
some water,
wherein the molar ratio of ammonium hydroxide to ammonium bicarbonate is between about 1.5 and about 2, and
wherein all amounts are by weight, based on the total weight of the hair color modifying composition,
wherein the hair color modifying composition has a pH greater than 7, preferably between about 8 and about 11.5, more preferably between about 8.5 and about 11, between about 9 and about 10.5 , or between about 9.5 and about 10.5, more preferably between about 9.5 and about 10.25 or between about 9.75 and about 10. A method of modifying the color of keratinous fibres, preferably the hair, or of reducing the damage suffered by the keratinous fibres, preferably the hair, during a process of modifying the color of the keratinous fibres, the method comprising the application to the keratinous fibers of a hair color modifying composition according to any one of claims 5, 7, 8, 9, and further comprising rinsing the hair color modifying composition from the keratinous fibers after a period of not more than 25 minutes, preferably no more than 20 minutes, more preferably no more than 15 minutes, most preferably about 10 to about 15 minutes after applying the hair color modifying composition to the keratinous fibers . Multi-compartment kit to modify hair color and/or reduce hair damage during a hair color modification process, comprising:
(i) a first compartment comprising a hair dye base in the form of a cream or an emulsion comprising:
(a) about 10% to about 30% alkoxylated fatty alcohols;
(b) about 1% to about 8% fatty acids;
(c) at least about 8% fatty alcohols other than alkoxylated fatty alcohols; And
(d) a buffer system comprising
about 0.1% to about 10% ammonium hydroxide;
about 0.1% to about 5% ammonium bicarbonate; And
optionally, about 0.5% to about 5% monoethanolamine;
wherein the molar ratio of ammonium hydroxide to ammonium bicarbonate is at least about 1.5, and
wherein all amounts are by weight, based on the total weight of the hair dye base; And
(ii) a second compartment comprising an oxidant component.