FR3150529A1 - TEXTILE FABRIC AND CLOTHING - Google Patents

Abstract

TEXTILE FABRIC AND GARMENT A textile fabric is provided with transverse and longitudinal yarns (4, 5) woven together to form a first sheet (2) with right and wrong sides. Second yarns (7) and first transverse yarns (6) constitute the primary transverse yarns (4). The first yarns (6) are core and sheath type yarns. The sheath has a melting temperature lower than a degradation or melting temperature of the core and the materials of the second yarns (7) and the longitudinal yarns. The first transverse yarns with the longitudinal yarns (5) define a first weave different from a second weave defined by the second yarns and the longitudinal yarns (5). The first transverse yarns have a first average overlap length on the wrong side which is greater than a first average overlap length on the right side so that the first transverse yarns are predominantly arranged on the wrong side. Figure for abstract: Figure 3

Description

TEXTILE AND CLOTHING FABRICS

The invention relates to a textile fabric and a garment using such a textile fabric.

State of the art

A composite fabric intended for use in forming a casing for an electrical or electronic device after being shaped using a thermal press is known from US patent 2007/0049151. The fabric is multilayered with a two-component yarn consisting of a high-tenacity fiber core and a polyester fiber sheath. The core is made of fiberglass, carbon fiber, or high-tenacity polyester fiber. The fabric material is fully polymerized to form a rigid casing.

Document BE2009/0181 discloses a prepreg yarn intended for use in composite materials. A core made of basalt, glass, carbon, metal, aramid, flax, or hemp fiber is coated with a thermoplastic material. The prepreg yarn can be knitted, wrapped, braided, and/or spun. The coating material forms a matrix after melting.

US patent 2007/0015426 discloses a recyclable textile material made of woven or knitted yarns. The yarns have a core and sheath configuration. The yarn has a surface coating of propylene, olefin, polyurethane, or aluminum. The core is made of polypropylene, ethylene, or an olefin-based polymer. The core may be composed of one or more fibers. The yarns are bonded together by a thermal process. The fabric can be used for drapery or curtains, wall panels, automotive interiors, or upholstery. The yarn has a diameter greater than 0.18 mm and preferably between 0.25 and 1.25 mm. The core has a diameter of at least 75 denier. The core constitutes 23% of the weight, while the sheath constitutes 77% of the weight. The sheath is a semi-crystalline material, so the temperature determines the yarn's stiffness. The entire fabric is annealed between 146 and 155°C. The yarn has a sheath that does not degrade when the core melts. The sheath can withstand a temperature of 220°C.

In the textile industry, it is advantageous to supply pre-shaped fabric to facilitate its use. However, supplying pre-shaped fabric requires the use of specific yarns and/or a particular combination of materials.

Document WO 2007/034730 discloses a garment interlining fabric consisting of a textile material made up of warp and weft yarns. The weft yarns are blended yarns made from a fusion yarn and animal hair. The fusion yarn has a core and a sheath. The sheath is made of a sheath material with a melting point lower than the core material. The warp is a natural fiber with a count between 50 and 400 denier. The weft has a count between 450 and 1000 denier. Animal hair is used to provide stiffness to the fabric.

The mass ratio between the fusion wire and the animal hair is between 5:5 and 2:8. The core can be made of polyester resin with a melting point between 200 and 260°C while the sheath is made of high-density polyethylene with a melting temperature between 140 and 150°C.

Once the fabric is formed, a finishing step is carried out using an iron applied at a temperature between 140 and 150°C to define a three-dimensional shape. The iron melts the polyethylene layer, fusing this material with the warp threads. The interfacing is then sewn or attached to another layer of fabric to define the garment's three-dimensional shape. If the fabric is distorted by washing, it can be reshaped.

The supply of a thermoformable fabric involves the use of a complex yarn with a sheath, a core and a stiffening element.

One object of the invention is to overcome these disadvantages, and more particularly to provide a thermoformable fabric presenting a better compromise between the flexibility of the non-thermoformed areas and the rigidity of the thermoformed areas while remaining economical and with a more homogeneous gloss value between the thermoformed and non-thermoformed areas and/or greater homogeneity between before and after a thermoforming step.

These drawbacks are addressed by using a textile fabric with at least one primary layer comprising:
- primary transverse yarns and primary longitudinal yarns woven together to form the first layer with a right side and a wrong side;
- of the first sons, the second sons, and the third sons:
in which the second wires and at least part of the first wires constitute the primary transverse wires, the first wires being called the first transverse wires;
in which the third wires and possibly the rest of the first wires constitute the primary longitudinal wires;
in which the first wires are sheathed wires having a core of core material and a sheath of sheath material, the sheath material having a melting temperature lower than a degradation temperature of the core material and, where applicable, lower than a melting temperature of the core material, the sheath material having a melting temperature lower than a degradation temperature of the second and third wires and, where applicable, lower than a melting temperature of the second and third wires.

The textile fabric is remarkable in that the interlacing of the first transverse threads with the primary longitudinal threads defines a first weave that is different from a second weave defined by the interlacing of the second threads with the primary longitudinal threads; and
in that the first transverse threads have a first average overlap length on the wrong side which is greater than a first average overlap length on the right side so that the first transverse threads are predominantly arranged on the wrong side.

In an advantageous embodiment, the first average length of overlap in the right side is less than or equal to two primary longitudinal threads.

In an interesting development, the first average length of overlap in the front face is equal to a primary longitudinal thread.

Advantageously, the first average length of face-to-face overlap is greater than or equal to three primary longitudinal threads.

Preferably, the second weave defines a second average length of reverse face overlap of the second threads which is less than the first length of reverse face overlap.

According to one aspect of the invention, the second weave defines a second average length of overlap on the reverse side of the second yarns which is equal to a second average length of overlap on the right side of the second yarns.

Preferably, the front face has a first gloss value of less than 10UB.

Advantageously, the primary transverse wires have between 33% and 75% in number of first transverse wires.

In a particular embodiment, the textile fabric has less than 50% in number of first yarns compared to the sum of the primary transverse yarns and the primary longitudinal yarns.

According to another aspect, the second and/or third threads are "taslan" threads possessing surface loops.

Preferably, the second and third yarns are woven together in a first zone with a weaving density greater than a threshold value blocking creep of the sheath material in the molten state.

Preferably, the primary longitudinal threads include first threads called first longitudinal threads, with the first and second weaves having the first longitudinal threads mostly on the reverse side.

Preferably, the textile fabric comprises a second layer superimposed on the first layer, secondary transverse yarns being woven to secondary longitudinal yarns to form the second layer, the first layer and the second layer being linked together by interlacing at least one yarn of the secondary transverse yarns, secondary longitudinal yarns, primary transverse yarns and primary longitudinal yarns to deform in the same way, the first transverse yarns being predominantly arranged between the first layer and the second layer.

Advantageously, the secondary longitudinal yarns woven with the secondary transverse yarns have a weaving density greater than a threshold value blocking creep of the sheath material in the molten state and/or the secondary longitudinal yarns and/or the secondary transverse yarns are "taslan" yarns having surface loops.

Advantageously, the first layer has a first portion and a second portion which is distinct from the first portion, the first portion and the second portion sharing at least one of the primary transverse wires or at least one of the primary longitudinal wires, the first portion and the second portion differing by at least one of the following characteristics:
- water permeability,
- air permeability,
- resistance to abrasion and/or perforation,
- three-dimensional stiffness.

In a preferred configuration, the textile fabric includes an additional fabric attached to the first layer by stitching. The first area was thermoformed to melt the sheathing material and form a watertight seam.

Preferably, the textile fabric includes an additional fabric attached to the first layer by stitching. The first area has been thermoformed to be more rigid than the area around the first layer.

The invention also relates to a garment suitable for thermoforming in which the difference in brightness between the thermoformed and non-thermoformed areas is reduced while providing a good compromise between flexibility in the non-thermoformed state and maintenance of the three-dimensional shape in the thermoformed state.

This result is achieved by means of a manufacturing process for a thermoformable fabric according to any of the preceding configurations comprising the following steps:
- furnir at least a first thread having a core of first material the.

Advantageously, the garment is formed in at least one part from a textile fabric according to any of the preceding configurations. The garment is chosen from among a jacket, a vest, trousers, a shoe, a carrying device for example a backpack.

Preferably, the garment is made of textile fabric and is a backpack. The first portion forms the back or bottom of the backpack. The second portion forms the shoulder strap or front area of the backpack.

In a particular configuration, the garment consists of a textile fabric and is a vest or jacket with cavities. The first portion forms the walls of the cavities, the first portion having a greater three-dimensional stiffness than the second portion.

Description of the drawings

Other advantages and features will become clearer from the following description of particular embodiments and implementations of the invention, given by way of non-limiting examples and shown in the accompanying drawings, in which:

FIG. 1 : a schematic top view of a first layer of fabric obtained by weaving;

FIG. 2 : a schematic cross-sectional view of the entanglement of a fabric comprising two layers;

FIG. 3 : a schematic cross-sectional view of the entanglement of another fabric comprising two layers;

FIG. 4 : a schematic, cross-sectional view of a fabric formed by several first threads, the left part representing an absence of thermoforming and the right part having been thermoformed;

FIG. 5 : a schematic view of a first layer of armor;

FIG. 6 : a schematic view of a first layer comprising two distinct zones;

FIG. 7 : a schematic perspective view of a vest equipped with a MOLLE system.

Detailed description

Fabric 1 is a textile fabric illustrated in Figures 1 to 6 that comprises at least one first layer 2, preferably at least one first layer 2 and a second layer 3. The first layer 2 contains primary transverse yarns 4 and primary longitudinal yarns 5 woven together. The first layer 2 is obtained by weaving warp yarns with weft yarns. Depending on the configuration, the primary transverse yarns and the primary longitudinal yarns are respectively warp yarns and weft yarns, or vice versa. Once the fabric is cut, it becomes difficult to determine which yarn is a weft yarn and which is a warp yarn. When several layers are used, each layer is obtained by weaving.

In at least one first zone, the first layer 2 comprises first yarns 6, second yarns 7, and third yarns 8. The first yarns 6, second yarns 7, and third yarns 8 are woven together to form at least the first layer 2. At least some of the first yarns 6 and the second yarns 7 extend in the transverse direction such that at least some of the transverse yarns are formed by the second yarns 7 and at least some of the first yarns 6. The first yarns 6 that extend in the transverse direction are called the first transverse yarns. The third yarns 8 extend perpendicularly to the first transverse yarns and the second yarns 7 such that at least some of the longitudinal yarns are formed by the third yarns 8.

The first 6 wires are sheathed wires with a core 9 made of core material and a sheath 10 made of sheath material. The core material is different from the sheath material. The core material has a degradation temperature and possibly a melting temperature. The degradation temperature is the temperature at which the degradation of macromolecular chains begins, for example, the breaking of macromolecules or the graphitization of at least some of the macromolecules. The degradation temperature is higher than the melting temperature, if applicable. The core material can be a thermoplastic or a thermosetting material.

The sheath material has a degradation temperature and a melting temperature. The melting temperature of the sheath material is lower than the degradation temperature of the core material and, where applicable, lower than the melting temperature of the core material. The sheath material also has a melting temperature lower than the degradation temperature of the materials forming the second wires 7 and the third wires 8 and, where applicable, lower than the melting temperature of the materials forming the second wires 7 and the third wires 8. When the first ply 2 is subjected to high-temperature annealing, the sheath 10 reaches or approaches its melting temperature. The sheath material changes to a paste-like or liquid state in order to bond with the adjacent wires. The core 9 of the first wires 6, the second wires 7, and the third wires 8 remain solid.

When heated, the sheathing material flows to form a matrix that connects several adjacent transverse wires 4 and several adjacent longitudinal wires 5. As the sheathing material cools, it forms a matrix that imposes a three-dimensional shape on the wires of the first layer 2, which are bonded to the matrix. The sheathing material forms mechanical bonds between the cores 9 of the first wires 6, the second wires 7, and the third wires 8.

By using a first layer 2, which is partially woven with the first strands 6, it is possible to precisely define the position of the sheathing material, thus improving bonding control. Depending on the mechanical requirements of the areas to be thermoformed, the content of the first strand 6 and/or the content of sheathing material in the first strand 6 is defined.

During the thermoforming stage of the first zone, the sheath 10 of the first yarns 6 forming the warp or weft of the first layer 2 is melted to bond adjacent yarns. The sheath material, in its molten or pasty state, flows through the interstices of the first layer 2 and spreads across each surface of the first layer 2, distributing itself homogeneously. The polymer layer tends to form a surface that replicates the shape of the mold used during thermoforming. The flow of the sheath material tends to create a smoother surface with a high sheath material content. This results in a change in light reflection, forming a surface that appears shinier. Such a change in gloss can be unsightly when the rest of the fabric is matte. The first layer 2 then exhibits a difference in gloss between the thermoformed and non-thermoformed areas.

By using a first layer 2 comprising first yarns 6 with a sheath 10 and second yarns 7 and third yarns 8 without such a sheath, it is easier to find a compromise between the flexibility of the fabric that has not undergone a thermoforming step and the rigidity of the same fabric that has been thermoformed to define a three-dimensional shape. The rigidity and flexibility performance are adjusted by varying the ratio of first yarns 6 to second yarns 7 and third yarns 8, and possibly by adjusting the volume ratio of sheath 10 to core 9 of the first yarn 6.

In order to create a first layer 2 with a more homogeneous gloss value on the front side between the thermoformed and non-thermoformed portions, or between the areas before and after thermoforming, it is advantageous to use a first layer 2 in which the first transverse threads are predominantly located on the back side. A first weave pattern (or first weave) is used between the first transverse and longitudinal threads, which differs from a second weave pattern (or second weave) between the second threads and the longitudinal threads. In other words, the interlacing of the longitudinal threads 5 with the transverse threads 4 differs depending on whether the transverse thread is a first transverse thread 6 or a second thread 8.

The weave used for the interlacing of the first 6 transverse threads with the 5 longitudinal threads creates a right and wrong side; that is, the visible patterns differ depending on whether one observes the right or wrong side. The first 6 transverse threads are predominantly present on the wrong side, meaning they are more numerous than on the right side, and therefore more visible when observing the wrong side than the right side.

The first weave is such that the first transverse threads have a first average overlap length on the wrong side which is greater than a first average overlap length on the right side so that the first transverse threads are predominantly arranged on the wrong side.

An interlacing of a first transverse thread with the longitudinal threads corresponds to two consecutive crossings of longitudinal threads by a first transverse thread. Two consecutive crossings consist of a first crossing, which is a crossing of one face (for example, the right side), and a second crossing, which is a crossing of a second face (for example, the wrong side). The two crossings are separated by a length that is generally measured in threads. Since the weaving pattern can vary from one end of the study area to the other, the average length of an overlap is calculated; that is, the length of an overlap on both the right and wrong sides for a crossing considered representative of the study area.

To minimize the variation in gloss on the right side of the first layer 2 during a thermoforming step, it is advantageous to reduce the first average overlap length on the right side. Ideally, the first average overlap length on the right side should be less than or equal to two longitudinal threads; that is, on average, the first transverse threads overlap one or two longitudinal threads. More preferably, the weave is constructed so that the first transverse threads overlap a maximum of two longitudinal threads per interlacing in the area of interest. Even more preferably, the weave is constructed so that the first transverse threads overlap a maximum of only one longitudinal thread per interlacing in the area of interest. The area of interest preferably extends from one end of the first layer 2 to the other in the transverse direction, and even more preferably, it encompasses the entire first layer 2.

To maximize the amount of sheath material available on the reverse side, it is advantageous to have the longest possible average first overlap length on the reverse side. Preferably, this average first overlap length should be greater than or equal to three longitudinal wires. However, the higher this value, the less the core of the first transverse wires contributes to the mechanical strength of the first layer. Therefore, it is advantageous for the average first overlap length on the reverse side not to exceed ten longitudinal wires.

There is an advantage in increasing the ratio between the first average overlap length on the wrong side and the first average overlap length on the right side. It is advantageous to have a ratio greater than 2, preferably greater than 3, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 5. Advantageously, the ratio is less than 10.

In order to form a first layer 2 with good mechanical strength, it is advantageous to weave the second threads 7 with the longitudinal threads 5 in such a way as to provide a greater number of interlacings per unit distance than for the first transverse threads. In other words, for a given distance, there are more interlacings between the second threads 7 and the longitudinal threads 5 than between the first transverse threads and the longitudinal threads 5.

Preferably, the second weave defines a second average overlap length on the wrong side of the second 7 yarns that is less than the first overlap length on the wrong side. It is also advantageous for the second weave to define a second average overlap length on the wrong side of the second yarns that is equal to a second average overlap length on the right side of the second yarns. Even more preferably, the average overlap length on the wrong side and/or right side is less than or equal to 2 yarns and advantageously equal to 1 yarn.

There FIG. 3 represents a side view of a fabric comprising a first layer 2 and a second layer 2 joined together by a binding thread 16 which repeatedly interweaves threads of the two layers. In the illustrated embodiment, the binding thread extends in the transverse direction, but an extension in the longitudinal direction is also possible.

As illustrated in the FIG. 3 The first thread 6 is represented as dashes and periodically loops around a longitudinal thread 5 on the right side and three longitudinal threads on the wrong side. The first layer also includes a second thread that alternately loops around a single longitudinal thread on the right side and then on the wrong side. This representation corresponds to what is illustrated in another way in the FIG. 5 .

The second layer 3 is illustrated as having only one type of transverse thread, where a second thread alternately wraps around a single longitudinal thread on the right side and then on the wrong side. The second layer is preferably woven in plain weave.

Figure 4 illustrates another fabric configuration with a first layer 2 and a second layer 3. The two layers are linked by a first transverse thread which interlaces primary longitudinal threads 5 and secondary longitudinal threads 5’.

This configuration effectively blocks the creep of the molten sheath material from the back face to the front face.

The first transverse yarns are woven with the longitudinal yarns, ensuring the correct placement of the sheath material from the weaving stage onward. This process is efficient, repeatable, and economical. During weaving, the proportions of first transverse yarns and second yarns (7) are defined, determining the quantity of sheath material available and its surface distribution. Weaving also allows for the definition of the weave structure to be used, which determines the required performance in terms of fabric flexibility before thermoforming and three-dimensional stiffness after thermoforming. Three-dimensional stiffness corresponds to the fabric's ability to maintain its shape in response to stress. Since the fabric is intended to form a textile, it must not be too rigid to avoid injury to the user. It is also important that the first transverse yarns do not significantly degrade the mechanical performance of the first layer (2), for example, its tensile strength.

It is particularly advantageous that the primary transverse wires 4 have between 33% and 75% in number of first transverse wires 6.

The preferential placement of the first transverse yarns 6 on the reverse side limits the creep of the sheath material to the front side, thus limiting the variation in gloss value between thermoformed and non-thermoformed areas and/or the variation in gloss value for the same area between before and after the thermoforming step. This configuration is particularly advantageous when the front side has a low gloss. Advantageously, the first layer 2 has a first gloss value of less than 10 UB (UB for gloss unit or GU for gloss unit) on its front side. Gloss is measured according to BS 3424: Method 31: Part 28 1993. The configuration presented allows this gloss value to be maintained after thermoforming. The second and third yarns are chosen so that their weave with any other yarns of the first layer forms a first side with the desired gloss value. The second and third threads can be coated with a material that makes them more matte.

Preferably, the observation of differences in the weaves is carried out on a surface of at least 1cm2, preferably at least 5cm2, more preferably on a strip of at least 1cm which extends from one end to the other of the first layer 2 along the direction of the third wires and more preferably over the entire surface of the first layer 2.

To improve the three-dimensional stability of the thermoformed part, it is advantageous for the longitudinal threads to include first threads, referred to as first longitudinal threads. These first longitudinal threads are woven together with the transverse threads. The arrangement of the first longitudinal threads, the first weave, and the second weave are chosen so that the first longitudinal threads are predominantly located on the reverse side. The proportion of first longitudinal threads among the five longitudinal threads is preferably less than 50%, more preferably less than 40%, and even more preferably less than 30% by number.

Advantageously, the sum of the second wires 7 and the third wires 8 represents at least 50% of the wires of the first layer 2 in the first zone. More preferably, the sum of the second wires 7 and the third wires 8 represents at least 50% of the wires of the first layer 2. The first wire content is not less than 25% by number.

In an advantageous configuration illustrated at the FIG. 5 The first transverse wires represent 50% of the total transverse wires, and the second wires represent the remaining 50%. It is advantageous to alternate the first and second transverse wires. In a particular embodiment, the second wires may consist of different types of wire, for example, wires with different chemical compositions, different mechanical properties, different diameters, or different surface coatings. The diversity in the second wires allows for the functionalization of the first layer beyond its thermoforming properties.

There FIG. 5 This represents a schematic view of a weave. The columns represent primary longitudinal threads, and the rows represent primary transverse threads. The arrows indicate which type of transverse thread is used. A white square represents a longitudinal thread visible on the right side, and a black square represents a longitudinal thread visible on the wrong side. The leftmost column represents the weaving pattern of a binding thread that joins the first layer 2 and the second layer 3. The binding thread is an additional thread.

It is also possible to use different first transverse wires. The first transverse wires can be distinguished from each other by a difference in core diameter 9, sheath diameter 10, core chemical composition 9, or sheath chemical composition 10. This makes it possible to modify the mechanical behavior of the first plies 2 in two different portions 2a and 2b without changing the armor.

In order to offer greater freedom in the thermoforming conditions, it is preferable that the first layer 2 be as airtight as possible to the molten sheath material.

In one particular embodiment, the second yarns 7 and/or the third yarns 8 are woven together in the first zone with a weave density exceeding a threshold value that prevents creep of the molten sheath material. The second yarns 7 and the third yarns 8 are woven sufficiently tightly together to limit creep, for example, to make the first layer 2 impermeable to the molten sheath material.

In another particular embodiment that can be combined with the previous one, the second wires 7 and/or the third wires 8 are so-called "taslan" wires with surface loops. The second wires 7 and/or the third wires 8 can be wires treated with the Taslan process to form taslanized films. As is well known to those skilled in the art, loops are artificially created on the filaments by passing the normal continuous wire through a nozzle simultaneously with a stream of compressed air, which causes the filaments to loop. The resulting wire thus has regularly distributed loops along its entire length, which increase its volume, covering power, and heat capacity. The loops formed along the wire define an obstacle to the flow of the molten cladding material.

In an advantageous configuration, the first layer has a first zone where the weave density exceeds the threshold value and a second zone where the weave density is below the threshold value. Following the same thermoforming operation, the first layer has two zones with different gloss values. The second zone may indicate that the textile has undergone a thermoforming step. The first and second zones may share at least one or more first transverse yarns, one or more second yarns, and/or one or more third yarns.

In a preferred embodiment, the textile fabric has a first layer 2 and a second layer 3 which are superimposed one on top of the other in a direction perpendicular to the longitudinal and transverse directions. The first layer 2 is fixedly attached to the second layer 3, and the two layers deform in the same way in the longitudinal and transverse directions.

The first layer 2 has primary transverse wires and primary longitudinal wires. The second layer 3 has secondary transverse wires 4' and secondary longitudinal wires 5'. The primary and secondary transverse wires can interlace in the first layer 2 and in the second layer 3 to secure the two layers together. The primary and secondary longitudinal wires can interlace in the first layer 2 and in the second layer 3 to secure the two layers together.

The primary transverse and longitudinal wires have a majority of interlacings with the first layer 2. The secondary transverse and longitudinal wires have a majority of interlacings with the second layer 3.

It is particularly advantageous to place the first threads mainly between the first layer and the second layer, that is to say that the first threads have a low number of interlacings visible from the two external faces of the fabric.

For example, the first 6 yarns are not interwoven with the second layer 3. It is advantageous for the second layer 3 to be woven with a weave density that prevents the creep of the sheath material in the paste or liquid state to avoid a significant change in the gloss value of the outer face of the second layer 3 and to prevent the sheath material from separating from the first layer 2. The second layer 3 may use taslan yarns to form all or part of the secondary longitudinal yarns and all or part of the secondary transverse yarns. FIG. 3 illustrates a fabric where the first 6 threads are not interwoven with the second layer 3.

If the second layer 3 has first wires, the first wires 6 can be transverse and/or longitudinal. The configuration of the second layer 3 can be identical to the configuration presented for the first layer 2, particularly with regard to the different types of weaves between the first wires 6 and the second wires 7, which extend along the transverse direction, or between the first wires 6 and the third wires 8, which extend along the longitudinal direction.

It is advantageous to have a second layer 3 equipped with first wires 6 in order to have a significant quantity of sheath material to obtain the desired rigidity after thermoforming without degrading the performance of the first layer 2, for example the provision of a weaving pattern ensuring the seal to the sheath material in the molten state.

Preferably, the weave of the first 6 transverse yarns is of the 1/n twill type, where n is an integer greater than 2, and more preferably greater than 3 or 4. For a 1/3 twill weave, the first length is equal to three times the second length, and the first transverse yarn overlaps three longitudinal yarns on the right side between two loops of a longitudinal yarn on the wrong side, or vice versa. The twill weave is observed by considering only the first transverse yarns. Such a weave is illustrated in the FIG. 5 .

For example, the second threads are linked to the longitudinal threads with a plain weave. The plain weave is observed by considering only the second threads. Such a weave is illustrated in the FIG. 5 .

These configurations offer greater freedom in the thermoforming conditions of the fabric while providing good homogeneity of the gloss value of the first side of the fabric.

The first transverse and possibly longitudinal yarns are woven with the other yarns of the first layer 2 during the weaving stage. The weaving stage allows for the placement of the multiple first yarns. It also allows for the definition of several zones with varying proportions of first yarns, creating zones with different proportions of transverse and/or longitudinal first yarns, as appropriate. Since the technical characteristics of the first layer 2 are known, it is possible to predict the displacement of the sheath material during creep in response to a predefined thermoforming stage.

The formation of a first layer with a first portion 2a having a first content of first transverse wires and a second portion 2b having a second content of first transverse wires makes it possible to form two zones with different rigidities after undergoing the same thermoforming step, that is to say with the same conditions of temperature, duration and pressure stress. FIG. 6 can illustrate the thermoforming of the first portion 2a and the non-thermoforming of the second portion 2b.

Following the thermoforming step, the molten sheath material can form a film that continuously covers the first zone. The thermoformed zone forms a first zone that is watertight and preferably airtight. The non-thermoformed zone may not be airtight or watertight.

Thermoforming a portion of the textile fabric allows the formation of a first portion 2a, which is distinct from a second portion 2b and differs from each other by at least one characteristic. The mechanical characteristic is preferably chosen from:
- air permeability,
- water permeability,
- resistance to abrasion or perforation,
-three-dimensional stiffness.

The first portion 2a and the second portion 2b are formed from the same fabric; that is, both portions originate from the same weaving stage. The two portions may share one or more primary longitudinal yarns or one or more primary transverse yarns. FIG. 6 illustrate the two portions. The two portions can be distinguished from each other in that the first portion 2a has undergone thermoforming and the second has not.

As illustrated in the FIG. 2 The first yarn 2 has a core 9 made of core material and a sheath 10 made of sheath material. The core material is preferably chosen from thermoplastic polymers and thermosetting polymers. The sheath material is chosen from thermoplastic polymer materials. It is particularly advantageous for the core 9 of the first yarn 6, the second yarn 7, and the third yarn 8 to be continuous fibers, that is, for them to have one or more fibers extending from one end to the other of the first layer 2 in the longitudinal or transverse direction. Continuous fiber differs from short fiber, where the yarn is obtained by linking multiple short fibers to form a longer yarn.

The core 9 of the first wire 6, the second wire 7 and the third wire 8 can independently be a monofilament or a multifilament.

In a preferred embodiment, the second yarn 7 and the third yarn 8 are made of the same material, and more preferably of the same material, as the core 10 of the first yarn 6. Such a configuration facilitates fabric recycling. It is also advantageous for the sheath material to be of the same family as the core material, and more preferably a material substantially identical to the core material, to facilitate fabric recycling.

Fabric 1 is intended to be thermoformed. During thermoforming, heat is applied to fabric 1, shaping it into a three-dimensional form. The amount of heat applied to fabric 1—that is, to the entire fabric or to specific areas of the fabric, as illustrated in the FIG. 6 This allows the second material to be heated beyond its glass transition temperature, possibly even beyond its melting point. Naturally, the transformation temperature is lower than the degradation temperature of both the first and second materials.

The amount of heat applied to the fabric during thermoforming is chosen to cause the sheath 10 to flow or even melt without degrading the mechanical performance of the core 9 or the other yarns. The heat applied to the fabric is also chosen to avoid damaging the transverse and longitudinal yarns, thus preserving the weave. During the thermoforming stage, the structure is maintained, and additional mechanical bonds are formed. It is advantageous to use a mold during the thermoforming stage to define the three-dimensional shape of the fabric. This shape is retained after the temperature is lowered.

During the thermoforming stage, it is advantageous to transform the sheath into a continuous film that extends from one end to the other of the first zone in the longitudinal direction and in the transverse direction in order to form a liquid-tight and possibly air-tight film.

Advantageously, the fabric has at least two distinct zones with two different first-yarn contents. Both zones are annealed to melt the sheath material. The difference in first-yarn content creates two zones with different air permeabilities and/or liquid permeabilities. This difference in first-yarn content allows the fabric to be functionalized.

Depending on the application, the fabric can be fully or partially thermoformed. When the fabric is partially thermoformed, there is a first portion 2a which has been thermoformed and a second portion 2b which has not been thermoformed and which retains the initial mechanical characteristics of the fabric.

After the thermoforming stage, the heated and deformed sheaths (9) are cooled to maintain their shape. At the end of the thermoforming stage, the fabric temperature drops below the glass transition temperature of the second material. This second material establishes mechanical bonds and helps maintain the fabric's predetermined shape.

Preferably, the mechanical connections made of a second material that fasten the yarns together have a lower breaking strength than the breaking strength of the core material(s). When the fabric is subjected to a stress that causes the mechanical connections made of the second material to fail, mechanical strength is ensured by the cores, and preferably by the cores made of the first material.

In a preferred embodiment, the first material and the second material are thermoplastic materials. It is advantageous that the first material has a glass transition temperature at least 10°C higher than the glass transition temperature of the second material, preferably at least 20°C, and even more preferably at least 30°C.

To facilitate the recycling of fabric 1, it is advantageous for fabric 1 to be made of a single material. In other words, fabric 1 is formed from the first yarn 2 or from several yarns whose core 6 and sheath 7 are made of the same material. Since fabric 1 is made of a single material, there is no longer a step of separating a first material different from a second material.

It is advantageous for the first and second materials to be identical materials selected from thermoplastic polyesters, polypropylene, polyethylenes, and polyamides. Particularly advantageously, both the first and second materials are polyesters. When the first and/or second material is a polyester, it is advantageous to choose polyethylene terephthalate (PET). In a particular embodiment, the first material is a high-viscosity polyester, preferably a high-viscosity polyethylene terephthalate, which is a thermoplastic polyester, preferably with a melting point of 250°C. The second material may be a crystalline Co-PES type polyester, preferably one with a melting point between 140°C and 220°C, more preferably a crystalline Co-PET. A Co-PES or Co-PET is a copolymer that consists mainly, by weight, of polyester or polyethylene terephthalate, preferably at least 75% by weight, and preferably at least 85% by weight of polyester or polyethylene terephthalate. A high-viscosity polyester is preferably one with an intrinsic viscosity greater than 0.9. It is particularly advantageous to specify that the core 9 be made of thermosetting polyester and that the sheath 10 be made of thermoplastic polyester.

To form fabric 1, a first yarn 6 with a count between 50 dTex and 3300 dTex can be used. The count of the first yarn 6 can be chosen according to the required flexibility of the un-thermoformed fabric 1. With such a range of counts, it is easier to form a fabric that remains flexible in the un-thermoformed areas and relatively rigid in the thermoformed areas. It is advantageous for all yarns to have a count between 50 dTex and 3300 dTex. In an advantageous embodiment, the first yarn 6 has a tenacity greater than 0.5 cN/dTex, preferably greater than 1 cN/dTex, even more preferably greater than 2 cN/dTex, and even more preferably greater than 4 cN/dTex. Such tenacity allows for a fabric particularly well-suited to resisting the deformation of fabric 1 without breaking. It is also advantageous to use a first wire 6 with an elongation at break of at least 10%, preferably at least 20%. Ideally, the sheath material has a glass transition temperature between 80°C and 220°C.

In an advantageous embodiment, the sheath 7 represents at least 5% by mass of the first wire 6. Preferably, the sheath 7 does not represent more than 60% by mass of the first wire 6.

The first layer 2 and, if applicable, the second layer 3, form a monolithic fabric, that is, one obtained in a single weaving operation. An additional fabric 11 can be attached to the first layer 2 by sewing, stapling, riveting, or any other suitable means, with a tie that passes through the first layer 2. The first portion and the additional portion are attached to each other by a fastening zone 9, which has one or more seams. Alternatively, the additional fabric is another part of the first layer 2 that is folded back on itself, for example, to form a ring. The seam is located in a thermoformed area. The thermoforming is carried out in such a way as to form a waterproof film, thus creating a watertight seam. It is advantageous for the thermoforming step to be carried out after the sewing step.

In an alternative or complementary embodiment, the thermoforming step is carried out in such a way as to increase the rigidity of the formed area compared to a non-thermoformed area. By placing the seam in a more rigid area than around the seam, it has been observed that the seam is subjected to less mechanical stress, thus providing better durability.

It is particularly advantageous to use the fabric to make a garment, and preferably a vest, for example a vest 12 such as the one illustrated in the FIG. 7 However, the fabric can also be used to create other types of garments, such as belts, trousers, helmet covers, or capes. It can also be used to make carrying devices, like backpacks or other types of bags. When the fabric forms all or part of a garment, it is preferable for it to have both a thermoformed and a non-thermoformed portion to adapt its mechanical properties to the garment's requirements.

When a backpack is at least partially made of fabric, it is advantageous to use a thermoformed section in the back panel to create a more rigid back panel, thus improving the backpack's stability. It is also advantageous for the thermoformed section to form all or part of the bottom of the backpack. Using a thermoformed section results in a backpack bottom that is more durable than its non-thermoformed counterpart. The non-thermoformed section forms all or part of the shoulder straps or the front of the backpack to take advantage of the fabric's flexibility. The bottom of the backpack can be thermoformed to create a waterproof, puncture-resistant, and/or rigid area. The same can be done for all or part of the back panel, that is, the part that comes into contact with the user's back. However, the fabric may include a non-thermoformed section intended to form the front of the bag or a hinge area. It is also possible to use the same fabric to make one or more shoulder straps. Part of the strap may be thermoformed to define the shape of the shoulders, while another part is non-thermoformed for greater flexibility.

In a particular embodiment, fabric 1 forms all or part of a vest, and in particular a vest 12 such as the one illustrated in the FIG. 7 The fabric is cut so as to define a through hole 8. Preferably, the fabric 1 defines a plurality of holes 8 so as to form a load carrier, that is to say a device equivalent to a MOLLE type load carrier, for example in the form of a garment and more preferably in the form of a vest with attachment points for additional equipment.

The fabric incorporates thermoformed and non-thermoformed areas to create a garment with varying degrees of rigidity. It is advantageous to create a thermoformed zone encompassing the different fabric cutouts to define the load-bearing areas. This load-bearing thermoforming prevents fabric delamination due to repeated insertion and removal of equipment. Thermoforming also eliminates the need for a seam around the perimeter of the opening. The shoulder contact area is preferably left unthermoformed to improve comfort.

The thermoforming step stiffens fabric 1 around hole 8 to create a more rigid attachment point for equipment. Stiffening fabric 1 around hole 8 facilitates equipment installation and reduces deformation of fabric 1 under load. Cutting fabric 1 after the thermoforming step is complete is particularly advantageous.

When fabric 1 has a fastening zone and preferably a sewing zone 13, it is advantageous for the sewing zone 13 to be included within the thermoformed area. This stiffens the fastening zone, preventing excessive mechanical stress on the connection between the first and additional portions.

The fabric typically forms all or part of a garment. Depending on the configuration, the garment may be made from a single piece of fabric or from several pre-cut pieces that are then assembled. Initial heat shaping may be applied to the edges of fabric 1 to prevent fraying. This heat shaping provides a slight bond between the threads. The garment may be intended to be worn on the upper or lower body. It may be a jacket, vest, trousers, or shorts. It may also be a shoe upper.

Fabric 1 can be used to form the upper of a shoe. Thermoforming a portion of the upper allows specific areas, such as the heel, to be stiffened.

In one particular embodiment, the first yarn 2 has a polyester sheath 10, and the fabric 1 is coated with a dye having a dry matter content greater than 20%, preferably greater than 25%, and preferably greater than 29%. Preferably, the dye should be water-resistant. The dye may then contain a crosslinkable resin to prevent dilution in water once the resin has crosslinked.

Claims (20)

Textile fabric having at least one first layer (2) comprising:
- primary transverse yarns (4) and primary longitudinal yarns (5) woven together to form the first layer (2) with a right side and a wrong side;
- of the first sons (6), the second sons (7) and the third sons (8):
in which the second wires (7) and at least part of the first wires (6) constitute the primary transverse wires (4), the first wires (6) being called the first transverse wires;
in which the third wires (8) and possibly the rest of the first wires (6) constitute the primary longitudinal wires (5);
in which the first wires (6) are sheathed wires having a core (9) of core material and a sheath (10) of sheath material, the sheath material having a melting temperature lower than a degradation temperature of the core material and, where applicable, lower than a melting temperature of the core material, the sheath material having a melting temperature lower than a degradation temperature of the second wires (7) and the third wires (8) and, where applicable, lower than a melting temperature of the second wires (7) and the third wires (8);
characterized in that the interlacing of the first transverse wires with the primary longitudinal wires (5) defines a first weave which is different from a second weave defined by the interlacing of the second wires (7) with the primary longitudinal wires (5);
in that the first transverse wires (4) have a first average overlap length on the wrong side which is greater than a first average overlap length on the right side so that the first transverse wires are predominantly arranged on the wrong side. Textile fabric according to claim 1 in which the first average overlap length on the right side is less than or equal to two primary longitudinal yarns (5). Textile fabric according to claim 2 in which, the first average length of overlap on the right side is equal to a primary longitudinal yarn (5). Textile fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the first average overlap length on the reverse side is greater than or equal to three primary longitudinal yarns (5). Textile fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein the second weave defines a second average length of reverse face overlap of the second yarns (7) which is less than the first length of reverse face overlap. Textile fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5 wherein the second weave defines a second average overlap length on the wrong side of the second yarns (7) which is equal to a second average overlap length on the right side of the second yarns (7). Textile fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6 in which the front face has a first gloss value of less than 10UB. Textile fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7 in which the primary transverse yarns (4) have between 33% and 75% by number of first transverse yarns (6). Textile fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 8 comprising less than 50% by number of first yarns (6) in relation to the sum of the primary transverse yarns (4) and the primary longitudinal yarns (5). Textile fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 9 wherein the second yarns (7) and/or third yarns (8) are "taslan" yarns having surface loops. Textile fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 10 wherein the second yarns (7) and the third yarns (8) are woven together in a first zone with a weaving density greater than a threshold value blocking creep of the sheath material in the molten state. Textile fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 11 wherein the primary longitudinal yarns (5) comprise first yarns (6) referred to as first longitudinal yarns, the first and second weaves having the first longitudinal yarns predominantly on the reverse side. Textile fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 12 comprising a second layer (3) superimposed on the first layer (2), secondary transverse yarns being woven to secondary longitudinal yarns to form the second layer (3), the first layer (2) and the second layer (3) being linked together by interlacing at least one yarn of the secondary transverse yarns, secondary longitudinal yarns, primary transverse yarns and primary longitudinal yarns to deform in the same way, the first transverse yarns being predominantly arranged between the first layer (2) and the second layer (3). Textile fabric according to claim 13 wherein the secondary longitudinal yarns woven with the secondary transverse yarns have a weaving density greater than a threshold value blocking creep of the sheath material in the molten state and/or the secondary longitudinal yarns and/or the secondary transverse yarns are "taslan" yarns having surface loops. Textile fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 14 wherein the first layer (2) has a first portion and a second portion which is distinct from the first portion, the first portion and the second portion sharing at least one of the primary transverse yarns (4) or at least one of the primary longitudinal yarns (5), the first portion and the second portion differing by at least one of the following characteristics:
- water permeability,
- air permeability,
- abrasion resistance,
- three-dimensional stiffness. Textile fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 15 comprising an additional fabric attached to the first layer (2) by stitching, in which the first area has been thermoformed to melt the sheath material and form a watertight seam. Textile fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 16 comprising an additional fabric attached to the first layer (2) by stitching, in which the first zone has been thermoformed to be more rigid than around the first zone. Garment formed at least in part from a textile fabric according to any one of the preceding claims, the garment being chosen from a jacket, a vest, trousers, a shoe, a carrying device for example a backpack. Garment according to claim 18 comprising a textile fabric according to claim 15 wherein the garment is a backpack and wherein the first portion forms a back or bottom of the backpack and wherein the second portion forms a shoulder strap or front area of the backpack. Garment according to claim 18 comprising a textile fabric according to claim 15 in which the garment is a vest or jacket having cavities and in which the first portion forms the walls of the cavities, the first portion having a three-dimensional stiffness greater than the second portion.