FR3034015A1 - COMPOSITION COMPRISING DARK IMMORTELLE FLOWERS FOR COSMETIC USE - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition. The invention is characterized in that the composition comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, 0.1 to 5% of dried immortelle flowering heads by weight of the total weight of the composition. The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of such a composition for improving the barrier function of the skin and combating the appearance of signs of skin aging.

Description

The invention relates to the field of cosmetics. It relates more particularly to compositions comprising dried flowers of immortelle, and their cosmetic uses to combat the appearance of the signs of skin aging. The generic term immortal refers to all species of the genus Helichrysum which are dicotyledonous Angiosperms belonging to the order Asterals, family Asteraceae, tribe Gnaphalieae. This genus brings together about 500 species, very widely distributed around the world. In recent years, many laboratories have launched ranges of cosmetics bringing the immortelle into their compositions. Imiza's Oliu di Sole® products are known for example with the essential oil of organic immortelle (Helichrysum italicum) from Corsica, or the products of the Immortelle® range of L'Occitane 20 also based on essential oils of olive oil. immortelle (Helichrysum italicum) from Corsica. For this purpose, it is known that the composition of the essential oil of Helichrysum italicum of Corsica is very original.

The essential oils of immortelle (Helichrysum italicum) from Corsica are characterized by the predominance of oxygenated compounds (neryl acetate, neryl propionate and p-diketones) and a lower proportion of hydrocarbon compounds (limonene, y-curcumene) ( Bianchini et al., "Composition of Helichrysum italicum (Roth) G. Don, subsp., Italicum essential oils from Corsica (France)", Flavor and Fragrance Journal, 2001). More particularly, document FR2829145 describes that the main constituent of the essential oil of Corsican Helichrysum italicum, neryl acetate, is in high proportion when the flower heads are distilled from 40 to 50% on average and up to 70% for the immortals harvested 3034015 2 in the mountains of Balagne, a region located north-west of Corsica. It is established that neryl acetate, which is present at a high percentage in the essential oil of Corsican Helichrysum italicum, thus confers on it properties and activities in the cosmetic and dermatological fields: very high anti-radical activity ; increased cellular exchanges; activation of the cutaneous microcirculation, the corollary of which facilitates the elimination of the waste, thus revitalizing the cells and stimulating the skin biology; - decongestant and protective properties to strengthen the balances and defenses in the skin; - antiseptic and dermopurifying action to help clean up the cell environment. Thus, the compositions based on the essential oil of Helichrysum italicum from Corsica described in this document FR2829145 relate mainly to solar compositions, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, moisturizing. Also known are cosmetic cosmetics of 20 days, night cream and serum Fleur de jeunesse® Ile de Ré, marketed by the Applicant, which are enriched with essential oil and immortelle extract, comprising both a Helichrysum extract. stoechas and an extract of Helichrysum italicum, combined with other anti-aging active ingredients. They aim to find a soft, nourished, smooth and radiant skin, redensify the skin and smooth the features and thus regenerate the epidermis and effectively reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In addition, mention may be made of the soap, shower gel and shampoo products Treasure des Dunes®, marketed by P'tit Zef, made from a distillation concentrate of Hyperborea kelp seaweed from Ile de Batz, France. an algae extract from the Iroise Sea and an extract from Helychrysum stoechas seaside plants.

Similarly, the Plante System Hydrating Lip Stick® is known to the immortelle flower oil (Helichrysum arenarium) 3034015 3 associated, among others, with sesame oil, shea butter and wax. bee especially. However, the activity of the products of the prior art cited appears to be essentially related to the specific use of an extract of Helichrysum italicum from Corsica because of its high content of neryl acetate. Regarding the other known immortal species used, they are used in combination with several other commonly known anti-aging active agents and there is no suggestion that they may exhibit sufficiently potent antioxidant activity as such. In view of the foregoing, a problem to be solved by the invention is to develop immortal products which are easy to use and which have good antioxidant activity without relying primarily on the activity of néryle and which can be used in cosmetics advantageously biological, by optimizing the progressive diffusion of active compounds of immortelle without harming the other organoleptic characteristics of the products in terms of color and odor, for example. For this purpose, we know a bath oil from Ambre® including including branches of rosemary and lemon thyme with different oils such as olive oils, castor oil or sweet almond, and essential oils of rosemary, thyme and mint that nourish, soothe and soften the skin. Also known are nails or lip oils (Blossom ()) marketed by Blue Cross Beauty Products Inc. which include ornamental flowers or fruits. However, these products are not intended to be applied to the skin for an antioxidant action to fight against the appearance of the signs of skin aging. In addition, they do not relate to a progressive release of active compounds for antioxidant action and the plants 3034015 4 used as such are simply intended to provide maximum scent. The invention therefore has for its first object a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, 0.1 to 5% of immortal flowery flower heads dried by weight of the total weight of the composition. In addition, the subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for improving the barrier function of the skin and for combating the appearance of signs of cutaneous aging. The invention and the advantages resulting therefrom will be better understood on reading the description and the nonlimiting embodiments which follow, written with reference to the appended figures, in which: FIG. 1 represents in the form of histograms the comparative content of phytosterols between an oily immortelle dune macerate and a composition according to the invention comprising an oily macerate complex of immortelle dunes + flowers of immortelle dunes; and FIG. 2 represents the antioxidant effect of various compositions according to the invention comprising dried immortelle flowers by reduction of diphenylpicrylhydrazyl (DPPH test). In this specification, unless otherwise specified, it will be understood that, when an interval is given, it includes the upper and lower limits of said interval. The invention relates to a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a defined amount of between 0.1 and 5% of dried immortelle flower heads by weight of the total weight of the composition. The flower heads of immortelle designate the end of the flowering stem, or advantageously only the flowers of immortelle removed from the stem.

By drying is meant the post-collection phase during which the plant is rapidly dehydrated to a so-called back-up moisture. This desiccation is intended to sufficiently reduce the water content of flower heads to ensure favorable conditions for storage or subsequent processing of the plant.

The percentage of introduction of flowering tops or dried flowers of immortelle has a major impact on the amount of active compounds that will diffuse and be extracted from the plant to the cosmetically acceptable medium in the composition according to the invention, and consequently on the organoleptic characteristics such as the color (due inter alia to the diffusion of coloring compounds) and the odor of the composition. It is therefore essential to introduce a rate of flowering tops or dried flowers of immortelle which allows the progressive diffusion of the active compounds while having little or no negative impact on the organoleptic characteristics. For this purpose, Table 1 below illustrates the organoleptic characteristics in terms of color and odor of the composition after 10 days of contacting, according to the percentage of introduction of dried whole immortelle flowers of the dunes in a vegetable oil in a 50 ml glass bottle. Table 1:% introduction of dried flowers in a cosmetically acceptable medium 0.4 0.6 0.8 1 1.2 Organoleptic characteristics after 10 days Color: colorless Color: yellow + Color: yellow ++ Color: yellow ++ + Color: yellow +++ Odor: weak (-) Odor: + Odor: ++ Odor: +++ Odor: +++ Technical problems Nothing to RAS RAS RAS RAS report (RAS) 25 3034015 6% introduction of 2 3 4 5 flowers in a cosmetically acceptable medium. Organoleptic characteristics after 10 days. Color: yellow +++ Color: yellow +++ Color: yellow ++++ Color: yellow ++++ Odor: Odor: Odor: Odor: +++ + ++++ ++++ ++++ Technical problems RAS RAS Start of saturation limit saturation, impossibility of filling to pass to the upper threshold The definite quantity of flower heads or dried flowers of immortelle introduced into the composition according to the invention is preferably at least 0.4% by weight of the total weight of the composition of dried flowers of immortelle, more preferably between 0.6% and 4%, for example 0.8%, 1%, 1.2%, 2% or 3%, and even more preferably 0.8%. Such a percentage of introduction makes it possible to respect the organoleptic characteristics of the cosmetic medium while avoiding the occurrence of technical problems. The flowering tops, preferably the flowers, of immortelle are advantageously used whole. According to the invention, immortelle refers to plants of the genus Helichrysum.

Since there is a very high degree of polymorphism in species of the genus Helichrysum, the species preferentially used according to the invention are chosen from Helichrysum stoechas, Helichrysum arenarium, Helichrysum italicum, Helichrysum angustifolium, Rock helichrysum, Helichrysum boisieri nyman. , and more preferably the immortal dune (Helichrysum stoechas).

3034015 7 The immortal dune (Helichrysum stoechas) is a shrub that grows much in the Mediterranean area and is also found along the Atlantic coast. It is common in sandy and rocky places.

The picking period is also an essential parameter in that the content of active compounds of the immortelle plants is dependent on the flowering stage. The flowering tops or flowers of immortelle are thus picked at the bud stage, which can go as far as the open flower between June 10 and September depending on the species, for example July-August for H. arenarium, June-August for H. italicum, or June-September for H. stoechas. The flowering tops of immortelle dunes are notably composed of saturated fatty acids (mainly palmitic, myristic and lauric acid), monounsaturated (mainly oleic acid) and polyunsaturated (mainly linoleic acid and linolenic acid), sugars such as fructose, glucose, sucrose, trehalose, flavonoids such as naringenin, quercetin, apigenin glycosides, triterpenes such as ursolic, oleanolic and chlorogenic acids, uvaol such as erythrodiol, phytosterols such as that p-sitosterol and stigmasterol, vitamins such as a-tocopherol (vitamin E), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and (3-carotene (pro-vitamin A) and 25 essential oil. dunes thus has an anti-aging potential due to its antioxidant / anti-radical activity due to the presence of numerous compounds such as phenolic acids (ursolic, oleanolic and chlorogenic acids), flavonoid s (quercetin), phytosterols ((3-sitosterol, stigmasterol) and vitamins (E, C and pro-vitamin A). In particular, α-tocopherol, which is the most active of the tocopherols present, is known to allow, as vitamin C, to protect against UV-induced MMP-1s, which are interstitial collagenases and therefore to fight against photoaging. the skin. In addition, it has been shown that vitamin E plays a role in reducing wrinkles. On the other hand, ursolic acid is an elastase inhibitor that has anti-inflammatory activity and stimulates collagen synthesis. It thus helps to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and age spots by restoring the collagen structure and the elasticity of the skin. The presence of linoleic acid, linolenic acid and stigmasterol also allows to assume a regenerative and restructuring potential of the skin. As for quercetin, it has a protective activity of the skin against agents that induce oxidative stress including UV rays, toxins and ozone. It demonstrates an improvement in the elasticity, hydration and depth of wrinkles so a great anti-aging and rejuvenating potential.

The flowering tops or immortelle flowers are used dried, whole, and then optionally debacterized, for example by steaming for 30 minutes to 1 hour or by dry heat from 2 to 48 hours at 50 ° C. As examples of drying, immortelle flowers can be naturally dried by exposure to air (in the sun or in the shade) by controlling the relative humidity for a maximum of 10 to 20 days or advantageously gently dried for 4 days in a closed circuit dryer with forced ventilation and dehumidification at a temperature between 24 ° C and 30 ° C. The flowering tops or dried flowers of immortelle are introduced into a cosmetically acceptable medium in the composition according to the invention. A cosmetically acceptable medium refers to a medium suitable for use in contact with human and animal cells, particularly epidermal cells, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic response and the like, and proportionate to a reasonable risk / benefit ratio. .

By way of illustrative example, a cosmetically acceptable medium according to the invention may comprise excipients known and commonly used in the cosmetics field, such as waters, floral waters, esters, vegetable oils, mineral and synthetic oils, and in addition to dyes, sweeteners, flavoring agents, flavoring agents, perfumes, bulking agents, gelling agents, texturizers, binders, chelants, emulsifiers, emollients, surfactants, foaming agents, and / or preservatives, these adjuvants and their proportions are chosen in such a way as to do not adversely affect the desirable advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention.

According to the invention, the cosmetically acceptable medium is chosen so as to extract the active compounds from the immortelle flowering heads. The cosmetically acceptable medium according to the invention is more particularly an aqueous medium or an oily medium, preferably an oily medium. For this purpose, the cosmetically acceptable medium of the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises an aqueous or oily immortelle extract preferably obtained from immortelle flowering heads. The immortelle extract according to the invention is preferably obtained from an immortelle chosen, for example, from the species Helichrysum stoechas, Helichrysum arenarium, Helichrysum italicum, Helichrysum angustifolium, Helichrysum rupestre, Helichrysum boisieri nyman, preferentially the immortelle of dunes (Helichrysum stoechas). The composition preferably comprises 0.1 to 99.9% of the immortelle extract by weight of the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the mass ratio of immortelle extract with the dried flowering heads of immortelle is between 5/1 and 19/1, preferentially about 13/1, in the Composition.

The aqueous extraction may be selected from hydrodistillation, maceration, infusion, decoction, percolation, in an aqueous solvent, optionally hydro-alcoholic or hydroglycerinated, preferentially a maceration at room temperature, advantageously with stirring at the beginning. maceration. By ambient temperature is meant a stable but not necessarily controlled temperature generally of for example between 18 ° C and 25 ° C.

The aqueous solvent used for extraction is a distilled or demineralized water or a water rich in mineral salts and / or trace elements such as thermal waters. Glycerin can be advantageously used as a cosolvent and is non-irritating and moisturizing.

The oily extraction may be chosen from an oily extraction by microwaves, by microwave, by supercritical CO2, by maceration in an oily solvent, or by oily extraction assisted by ultra sounds, preferably by maceration at room temperature in a room. oily solvent, advantageously stirring at the beginning of maceration. Preferably, the mass ratio of flower heads or immortelle flowers with the aqueous solvent or the extraction vegetable oil is between 1/10 and 1/25, preferably about 1/19, in the aqueous or oily extract. immortal. According to a first embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the immortelle extract is an aqueous extract obtained from flower heads or dried and coarsely ground flowers of immortelle, preferably immortelle dunes (Helichrysum stoechas ), by maceration at room temperature for a time of at least 10 min and a maximum of 10 days, preferably more than 10 minutes and less than 10 days, for example even more preferably about 3 days, in water . The mass ratio of immortelle flowering heads with water is 3034015 11 1/19. After filtration, the aqueous extract of immortelle is thus recovered. According to a second particularly preferred embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the immortelle extract is an oily extract obtained from the flower heads or dried and coarsely ground flowers of immortelle, for example immortelle. Italy (Helichrysum italicum) or immortelle dunes (Helichrysum stoechas), preferentially immortelle dunes (Helichrysum 10 stoechas), by maceration at room temperature, optionally in the presence of a stabilizer such as tocopherol, for a period of at least 10 minutes and at most 10 days, preferably more than 10 minutes and less than 10 days, for example even more preferably about 3 days, in a vegetable oil selected from sunflower oil, sesame, apricot oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil or wheat germ oil, preferably sunflower oil, optionally deodorized. The mass ratio of immortelle flowering heads with vegetable extraction oil is about 1/19. After filtration, the oily extract of immortelle is thus recovered. By way of non-limiting illustrative example of obtaining an immortal oily macerate, the following steps are more particularly carried out: grinding, for example coarse grinding, in order to increase the contact area, flowering tops immortelle dunes, advantageously harvested from June to September for example on the Atlantic coast, and previously dried for 4 days in a closed circuit dryer with forced ventilation and dehumidification at a temperature between 24 ° C and 30 ° C; 5% mixture of ground and immortal flowery spruce buds by weight of total weight in 94.8% deodorized sunflower oil; - maceration at room temperature between 18 ° C and 25 ° C for 10 minutes, 3 days and 10 days, with a slight stirring at the beginning of maceration; filtration, for example at 20-25 μm, so as to separate the solid phase comprising flower heads, possibly pressed, which are eliminated, and the liquid phase and obtain an oily macerate; and addition with medium magnetic stirring of 0.2% of tocopherols.

The oily immortelle macerate of the dunes thus obtained after 10 minutes of maceration is liquid, clear, light yellow in color and odorless. Advantageously, the oily immortelle macerate of the dunes thus obtained after 3 days of maceration is liquid, clear, of a light yellow color and has a slight characteristic odor. The oily macerate of immortelle dunes thus obtained after 10 days of maceration is itself oily liquid, pale yellow to yellow and has a characteristic odor. An additional deodorization step is then advantageously carried out, which can nevertheless alter the content of active ingredients. With regard to the physicochemical characteristics of such a macerate obtained after 10 days, it has a density of 0.90-0.95, is soluble in oils and insoluble, for example in water, glycols and diluted alcohols. . At the level of the microbiological characteristics, the mesophilic aerobic flora measured on this macerate is less than 100 CFU / ml and the yeasts and molds are also less than 100 CFU / ml. The duration and method of maceration thus play a vital role on the extracted substances. Extraction for a necessary and sufficient time makes it possible to solubilize the flavonoid and phytosterol type molecules of interest for their antioxidant properties.

As an illustrative example, the Tables below show, by measurements made by the Applicant, the composition of an oily immortelle macerate obtained under the conditions of the illustrative example above after 3 days of maceration. Dosages of the content of flavonoids and phytosterols (stigmasterol and p-sitosterol) of such oily immortelle dune macerate have been more particularly carried out and are listed in Tables 2 to 4 below, highlighting the advantages relating to the use of such an immortelle extract in the composition according to the invention. Table 2: Determination of high performance liquid chromatography (ppm) assay for total flavonoids expressed as quercetin in oily macerate of immortelle dune flowers: Oily macerate Immortelle quercetin dosage 21.8 Lot LD12-131- 01 (ppm) The assay shows a quercetin content of 21.8 ppm from oily macerate of immortelle dune flowers. The presence of such a flavonoid content suggests an antioxidant activity.

Table 3: Determination of gas phase chromatographic (ppm) assay for stigmasterol in oily macerate of immortelle dune flowers: Oily macerate Assay of immortelle stigmasterol 126.4 Lot LD12-131-01 (ppm) 3034015 The assay shows a stigmasterol content of 126.4 ppm from oily macerate of immortelle dune flowers.

Table 4: Determination of gas phase chromatographic (ppm) assay for p-sitosterol in oily macerate of immortelle dune flowers: Oily macerate Assay of 94-6.5 immortelle sitosterol Lot LD12-131-01 (Ppm) The assay shows a p-sitosterol content of 943.6 ppm from oily macerate of immortelle dune flowers. The presence of such levels of phytosterols (stigmasterol and (3-sitosterol) also suggests an antioxidant activity.The oily immortelle extract used in the composition according to the invention thus advantageously contains phytosterols such as 3-sitosterol The phytosterols, by their solubility, are however not present in an aqueous extract, and the Applicant has made a comparison of the compositions between such an oily immortelle macerate of the dunes and a essential oil also obtained from immortelle dunes by hydrodistillation .The antioxidant molecules (stigmasterol, (3-sitosterol and quercetin) advantageously present in the oily immortelle dune extract are not however present in the oil as shown in Table 5 below: Table 5: Composition of the immortelle dunes essential oil Compounds Lot Family Composition 9-0759-02 biochemical essential oil (%) a-pinene 48,18 Monoterpenes p-pinene 0,13 p-cymene 0,12 limonene 1,02 y-terpinene 0,12 terpinolene 0 , 28 methyl-2-propyl butyrate 0.06 ester borneol 0.07 monoterpene alcohol 4-terpineol 0.1 a-terpineol 0.06 angelate (no 0.41 ester identified) lavandulyl acetate 0.06 acetic ester of a monoterpene alcohol C15 1.53 unidentified alkane a-ylangene 0.15 sesquiterpenes a-copaene 4.24 sativene 0.15 a-gurjunene 0.16 p-caryophyllene 2.63 13-copaene 0.21 tr-α-bergamotene 0.15 aromadendene 0.24 α-humulene 0.33 allo-aromadendrene 1.14 7aH, 10bH cadina-1 (6) -4-O, 73 diene p-muurolene 1.54 y-curcumene 1.22 a-curcumene 0.34 Unidentified 0.52 a-muurolene 2.74 y-cadinene 5.62 d-cadinene 12.12 cadina-1,4-diene 0.7 a-cadinene 1.04 a-calacorene 0.16 Unidentified alcohol 1.4 alcohol cubenol 0.28 sesquiterpenes alcohol epi-cubenol 0.53 tau-cadinol 1.62 16 3034015 a-muurolol 0.19 tau-cadinol muurolol 0.35 Not identified 0.62 Not identified a-kaurene 0.67 diterpenes In addition, the immortelle extract used in the composition according to the invention, which is advantageously not an essential oil of immortelle and more particularly Corsican Helichrysum italicum, contains little acetate of ryle, that is to say a substantially lower amount relative to the known contents of essential oils obtained by distillation for example Helichrysum italicum including Corsica (which comprise at least 20% by weight of neryl acetate relative to to the total weight of the essential oil). Preferably, the immortelle extract contains less than 15% by weight of neryl acetate relative to the total weight of the extract, and even more preferably does not substantially contain neryl acetate.

As an illustrative example, Table 6 below shows the contents of the majority of the essential oil of Helichrysum iatlicum from Italy compared to the essential oil of Helichrysum stoechas (immortelle des dunes). .

Table 6: Chemical comparison of the Helichrysum stoechas and Helichrysum italicum cchas e italicum essential oil 13.16%, 45% 2 n Beqam earth Y Er (total) 3034015 Such an aqueous or oily extract immortal, preferably oily, used in the composition according to the invention advantageously has a clean antioxidant activity which will be potentiated by the progressive diffusion of the active compounds of the dried flowering heads of immortelle contained in the composition according to the invention. Indeed, the Applicant has compared the total flavonoid (expressed as quercetin) and phytosterol (sitosterol and (3-stigmasterol) contents present in a composition comprising both dried immortelle dune flowers and an oily macerate. immortal dunes compared to the contents described above of these same active compounds in the oily macerate of immortelle dunes taken alone, from the same batch .

The assays are carried out for a composition comprising 92.92% of an immortal oily macerate obtained under the conditions of the preferred embodiment more particularly described above after 3 days of maceration and 7.08% of dried whole flowers. immortelle dunes, 20 after 13 days of contact. Table 7: Determination of high performance liquid chromatography (ppm) assay for total flavonoids expressed in quercetin in the composition comprising the oily macerate complex + flowers: Oily macerate Complex: immortelle dunes Oily macerate (100%) immortal dune (92.92%) + immortelle dune flowers (7.08%) (13 days) Concentration in 21.8 25.0 quercetin (ppm) 18 3034015 The assay shows a quercetin content of 25 ppm from the composition comprising the oily macerate complex + flowers. The content of total flavonoids has thus been increased by about 15% by contact with the flowers. Optimal diffusion of the active compounds such as quercetin is advantageously effected upon contacting the dried immortelle flowers with a cosmetically acceptable medium such as an oily macerate of immortelle.

The presence of such flavonoid content augurs an improved antioxidant activity. Table 8: Determination of gas phase chromatographic (ppm) assay for stigmasterol and (3-sitosterol in the composition comprising the oily macerate complex + flowers: Oily macerate Complex: immortelle dunes Oily macerate (100%) immortal dune (92.92%) and flowers (7.08%) (13 days) Concentration 126.4 237.1 stigmasterol (ppm) Concentration p-943.6 1770.2 sitosterol (ppm) The assay demonstrated a stigmasterol content of 237.1 ppm and (3-sitosterol) of 1770.2 ppm from the composition comprising the oily macerate + flowers complex, the total phytosterol content was thus increased by about 88% in stigmasterol and about 88% in (3-sitosterol by contact with the flowers.) An optimal diffusion of the active compounds such as stigmasterol and (3-sitosterol 25 is advantageously effected during the contacting of the dried flowers of the plant. immortal with a cosmetically acceptable medium such as a ma oily cereal of immortelle.

The presence of such phytosterol levels (stigmasterol and p-sitosterol) also presupposes enhanced antioxidant activity. The complete profile of the total phytosterol assays (including stigmasterol and p-sitosterol) present in these 2 compositions (with and without the addition of dried immortelle flowers) is also listed in Table 9 below: TABLE 9 determination of gas phase chromatography (ppm) assay to total phytosterols: Concentration of Macerate Complex:% oily ppm Oily meadow of immortelle immortelle increase of deses dunes (92.92%) and (100%) flowers ( 7.08%) (13 days) cholesterol 5.1 9.5 87.6 brassicasterol 5.1 12.6 150.1 24 methyl 3,4 3,2 -6,2 cholesterol campesterol 150.0 319.3 112 , 9 campastenol 1.7 3.2 87.6 stigmasterol 126.4 237.1 87.6 Delta-7- 40.4 82.2 '103.2 campesterol Delta 5.23 5.1 3.2 -37, 5 stigmastadienol clerosterol 15.2 56.9 275.2 beta-sitosterol 943.6 1770.2 87.6 sitostanol 6.7 22.1 228.3 Delta-5- 48.9 69.5 42.3 avenasterol Delta 5 , 24 21.9 72.7 231.9 stigmastadienol Delta-7- 244.3 401.4 64.3 stigmasterol Delta-7- 67 , 4 104.3 54.8 avenasterol total sterols 1685 3161 87.6 The optimal diffusion of the active compounds and more particularly the phytosterols including stigmasterol and p15 sitosterol by comparison between an oily macerate of immortelle dunes and a composition according to the invention comprising the oily macerate complex of immortelle + immortelle flowers is illustrated in Figure 1. It is noted that the content of total phytosterols is substantially increased, and also for the great majority of phytosterols taken independently of each other in the composition according to the invention comprising the oily macerate complex of immortelle + immortelle flowers. The composition according to the invention, comprising dried flowers of immortelle and, more preferably, an aqueous or oily immortelle extract, even more preferably an oily extract, contains in particular phytosterols and flavonoids and little or no substantially no neryl acetate.

From these results, it may be noted that the extraction method is essential to obtain the immortelle extract preferably used as a cosmetically acceptable medium and associated with the dried immortelle flowers contained in the composition according to the invention. It makes it possible to optimize the diffusion over time of the antioxidant active compounds in the composition until the cutaneous use. Unexpectedly, the antioxidant activity of the composition thus does not rely on the activity of neryl acetate. As such, the invention is illustrated below, by antioxidant efficacy tests. The antioxidant activity by reduction of diphenylpicrylhydrazyl (DPPH test) was evaluated for the oily immortelle macerate of dunes obtained under the conditions of the preferred embodiment more particularly described above after 3 days of maceration alone, and for a composition comprising 92.92% of such immortelle oily macerate and 7.08% of whole dried flowers of immortelle dunes, after 13 days of contacting.

It has also been evaluated for a composition comprising 92.92% of the aqueous extract of immortelle dunes obtained under the conditions of the embodiment more particularly described above and 7.08% of dried whole flowers. immortal dune after 13 days of contact, as well as for a composition comprising 92.92% of an oily macerate immortelle (Helichrysum italicum) from Italy (obtained under the same conditions as that of immortelle dunes) and 7.08% whole dried flowers of immortelle 10 from Italy after 13 days of contacting. Diphenyl-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) is a stable free radical of violet color absorbing at 540 nm. An antioxidant compound is able to trap the DPPH radical by giving it a proton which causes its discoloration. The antioxidant activity of a test element is proportional to the decrease in DPPH staining. Vitamin E, recognized anti-radical, is used as a positive control, a solution of DPPH at 100 pmol / L ethanol being used as a negative control.

The expression and interpretation of the results are based on the percentage reduction in DPPH (% fading). The test element concentration giving 50% DPPH reduction is also determined (IC 50); it is a reflection of antioxidant activity. The results obtained are listed in Table 10 below: Table 10: Concentration% CI 50 reduction of DPPH Vitamin E (μg / ml) 37 92 18.16 pg / ml 7.4 26 1.48 1 0, 3 -7 Immortelle complex 18.5 88 3.92 mg / ml dunes: oily macerate + flowers ID-15/01175 (mg / ml) 9.3 80 4.6 58 2.3 31 1.15 15 22 3034015 Immortelle complex 18.5 75 3.92 mg / ml of Italy: oily macerate + flowers ID-15/01176 (mg / mi) 9.3 83 4.6 58 2.3 31 1.15 15 Immortelle complex 18, 5 90 3.68 mg / ml dunes: aqueous macerate + flowers ID-15/01177 (mg / ml) 9.3 90 4.6 62 2.3 32 1.15 The results obtained show an IC 50 (calculated by linear regression, the response being proportional to the tested concentrations of the test element to the extent that it has an antiradical activity) of 7.23 mg / ml for oily macerate alone (not shown) and 3, 92 mg / ml for oily immortelle macerate complex of dunes + flowers of immortelles dunes. Since the IC 50 of the macerate taken alone is higher than that of the oily macerate + 10-flower complex, the antioxidant activity of the complex is therefore greater. Under the test conditions carried out, the addition of dried immortelle flowers thus makes it possible to significantly potentiate by a factor of about 2 the antioxidant activity of the immortelle oily macerate.

Results comparable to those obtained with the immortelle des dunes are obtained with immortelle from Italy with an IC 50 of 3.92 mg / ml. Even though the immortal dune complex has the same IC 50 as the Italian immortelle complex, the kinetics of the dune immortal complex is advantageously more advantageous in that the antioxidant activity continues to increase for Helichrysum. stoechas whereas it decreases for Helichrysum italicum, as illustrated in Figure 2. Similarly, the results obtained for the complex aqueous extract of immortelle dunes + flowers of immortelle dunes 23 3034015 show an IC 50 of 3.68 mg / ml, comparable to that obtained with the oily macerate complex + flowers. Such an aqueous extract + flower complex also has a very good antioxidant activity. Nevertheless, the organoleptic characteristics of this composition (aqueous extract + flowers complex) having a liquid appearance, a strong odor and a brown color do not make it possible to integrate it advantageously with a cosmetically acceptable medium in order to obtain a cosmetic composition that can be used as a cosmetic composition. that such. Such complexes comprising an aqueous or oily immortelle extract and dried flowers of immortelle, advantageously stable in appearance, color and odor, non-irritating, and including phytosterols and flavonoids and few or even substantially no neryl acetate, can be used as such or enter into the formulation of a range of cosmetics. However, they are very difficult to characterize as such because their composition varies, for the same species, according to various factors such as the parts of the immortelle used, the place of harvest, the harvesting method, the climatic conditions, or The composition of the invention is optionally capable of optionally comprising another active ingredient selected from an anti-aging agent, a moisturizing agent, a soothing agent or a mixture of these agents. As non-limiting examples of other active element according to the invention, mention may be made of polyphenols of beech buds or sugars such as ribose as anti-aging agents, hyaluronic acid, olive squalane , aloe vera or a lamellar gel containing Jonzac thermal water (FR2968553) as moisturizing agents, bisabolol, phytosphingosine or an extract of chamomile or witch hazel as soothing agents.

The composition may be more or less fluid and may be in any galenic form suitable for use for topical application to the skin, and more particularly in the form of serum, gel, lotion, oil, biphase composition. The skin refers more particularly to the skin of the face, in particular the outline of the eyes and the mouth, the nose, the forehead, the neck, the hands, as well as the skin of the rest of the body.

The cosmetic compositions produced are suitable for topical cosmetic use without risk of discomfort when applied to the skin. Even more advantageously, certain compositions thus developed respect the basic principles of ecological and biological cosmetics according to specifications certified by Cosmos and Ecocert cosmetics. By way of illustration, mention is made hereinafter of some examples of formulations of cosmetic compositions containing flowering heads of dried immortelle according to the invention: EXAMPLE 1 Oil Ingredients OILS (ARGANIA SPINOSA KERNEL OIL; OPUNTIA FICUS INDICA SEED OIL HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED TOCOPHEROL ROSA DAMASCENA FLOWER EXTRACT; and / or MAURITIA FLEXUOSA FRUIT CIL) Dried whole flowers of Helichrysum stoechas. : (HELICHRYSUM STOECHAS FLOWER EXTRACT) Oily immortelle dune macerate (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS HELICHRYSUM STOECHAS EXTRACT TOCOPHEROL) ESTERS (COCO-CAPRYLATE TOCOPHEROL; DICAPRYLYL ETHER TOCOPHEROL; DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE TOCOPHEROL; OCTYLDODECANOL; COCOGLYCERIDES; CAPRYLIC / CAPRIQ TRIGLYCERIDE; or COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE) STABILIZER (TOCOPHEROL HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED 'CIL)% in the formula 25-35 0.80 10.42 55-65 0.1-0.3 25 3034015 PERFUME (LINALOOL CITRONELLOL GERANIOL LIMONENE BENZYL SALICYLATE; LINALOOL CITRONELLOL BENZYL, SALICYLATE GERANIOL LIMONENE; LINALOOL LIMONENE 'BENZYL SALICYLATE GERANIOL CITRONELLOL; and / or HELICHRYSUM ITALICUM FLOWER OIL LINALOOL LIMONENE Example 2: Bath Oil and Massage Ingredients' OILS (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL; ARGANLA SPINOSA KERNEL OIL; / or MAURITIA FLEXUOSA FRUIT CIL) Oily macerate of Immortelle des Dunes (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS HELICHRYSUM STOECHAS EXTRACT TOCOPHEROL) Dried whole flowers of Helichrysum stoechas (HELICHRYS UM STOECHAS FLOWER EXTRACT) W / O emulsifier, solubilizer (POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE) PERFUME (LIMONENE LINALOOL BENZYL SALICYLATE CITRAL GERANIOL BENZYL BENZOATE FARNESOL; LINALOOL] 1LIMONENE ANISE ALCOHOL BENZYL BENZOATE BENZYL1 SALICYLATE CITRAL FARNESOL GERANIOL; CINNAMOMUM CAMPHORA (CAMPHOR) BARK OIL LINALOOL LIMONENE; CITRUS AURANTIUM BERGAMIA (BERGAMOT) FRUIT CIL] LIMONENE LINALOOL CITRAL; and / or CANANGA ODORATA1 CIL LINALOOL BENZYL BENZOATE BENZYL SALICYLATE]! FARNESOL GERANIOL) STABILIZER (TOCOPHEROL HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL) 0.5-0.8% in formula 75-85 0.01-0.1% in formula 50 -60 15-25 Example 3: biphase Ingredients Water (AQUA) Floral water (CENTAUREA CYANUS WATER BENZYL ALCOHOL DEHYDROACETIC ACID AQUA and / or ANTHEMIS NOBILIS FLOWER WATER SODIUM LEVULINATE SODIUM BENZOATE LACTIC ACID GLYCERIN AQUA) Glycerine (GLYCERIN) 3-7 CONSERVATIVE (SODIUM LEVULINATE GLYCERIN AQUA 0.5-1.5 26 3034015 SODIUM BENZOATE and / or BENZYL ALCOHOL) Oily mellitus of immortelle dunes (HELIANTHUS 10.5 ANNUUS HELICHRYSUM STOECHAS EXTRACT TOCOPHEROL) Dried whole flowers of immortelle dunes 0 , 8 0.1-0.5 (HELICHRYSUM STOECHAS FLOWER EXTRACT) Salt, remineralizer (SODIUM CHLORIDE) Seboregulating active ingredient (COPPER PCA) pH adjuster (LACTIC ACID AQUA; and / or AQUA SODIUM HYDROXIDE) 3-7 Antioxidant (TOCOPHEROL HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL) 0.1-0.5 Example 4: Gelled oil e-serum% in the formula Ingredients: OILS (ARGANIA SPINOSA KERNEL OIL) 8-12 Oily immortelle dune macerate (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS HELICHRYSUM STOECHAS EXTRACT TOCOPHEROL) ESTERS (ISOPROPYL PALMITATE; ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE; DICAPRYLYL CARBONATETOCOPHEROL; COCO-CAPRYLATETOCOPHEROL; HEXYLDECANOL HEXYLDECYLi LAURATE; and / or COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE) Dried whole flowers of Helichrysum stoechas (HELICHRYSUM STOECHAS FLOWER EXTRACT) STABILIZER (TOCOPHEROL HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL) COLORING (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL CI 75120 ASCORBYL PALMITATE TOCOPHEROL) 10.5 60-80 0, 80 0.01-0.2 0.001-0.1 PERFUME (LIMONENE LINALOOL BENZYL SALICYLATE, IGERANIOL, LINALOOL LIMONENE ANISE ALCOHOL BENZYL SALICYLATE GERANIOL, and / or LINALOOL LIMONENE AMYL iCINNAMAL GERANIOL BENZYL SALICYLATE) ITEXTURANT (DEXTRIN PALMITATE) 0.2- 0.8 5-7 Example 5: Cleansing lotion (gelled oil)% in the Ingredients formula Water (AQUA) 5-10 MOISTURIZING ACTIVE INGREDIENTS (SODIUM HYALURONATE) 0.001-0.1 Oily immortelle dune macerate (HELIANTHUS! 10, 5 27 3034015: ANNUUS HELICHRYSUM STOECHAS EXTRACT TOCOPHEROL) Glycerin (GLYCERIN), EMULSIFYING (SUCROSE LAURATE) OILS (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL, and / or ARGANIK SPINOSA KERNEL OIL) Dried Everlasting Flower Immortelle: (HELICHRYSUM STOECHAS FLOWER EXTRACT ) ESTERS (CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE and / or ISOPROPYL PALMITATE) STABILIZER (TOCOPHEROL HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED, CIL) COLOR (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL CI 75120: ASCORBYL PALMITATE TOCOPHEROL) PERFUME (LINALOOL LIMONENE BENZYL SALICYLATE; LINALOOL LIMONENE BENZYL SALICYLATE; and / or 0.2-0.8 'LIMONENE LINALOOL BENZYL SALICYLATE) Another subject of the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, 0.1 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition of flowering immortelle heads dried according to the invention, and preferably comprising an aqueous or oily immortelle extract, still more preferably oily, to improve the barrier function of the skin and to fight against the appearance of the signs of skin aging. Indeed, the composition according to the invention which contains in particular phytosterols and flavonoids and little or even substantially no neryl acetate, has as illustrated above an effective antioxidant activity against free radicals known as one of the factors responsible for skin aging and which are generated by light, pollution, smoke, etc. They attack skin cells in particular, play a role in the formation of wrinkles and other fine lines and thus cause premature aging. The composition according to the invention thus acts in the fight against the cutaneous signs of fatigue, stress and 5-15 0.8 35-45 0.01-0.1 0.001-0.1 28 3034015 premature aging and protection skin, especially against free radicals, responsible for 4 wrinkles out of 5, with improved effectiveness. The cutaneous signs of fatigue, stress and premature aging according to the invention more particularly denote, but are not limited to, all the visible manifestations on the skin caused by fatigue and stress such as wrinkles, fine lines, cracks. bags under the eyes, dark circles, sagging skin and subcutaneous tissue, loss of skin elasticity and atony, loss of firmness and tone, and dermal atrophy. The composition according to the invention contributes to the improvement of the hydration of the epidermis so as to correct the dryness of the skin and bring elasticity and tone to the skin so as to restore its radiance and not have withered, soft, thin, dull skin. It can also strengthen the barrier function of the skin and allow it to fight more effectively against all types of external aggression.

By external aggression is meant the aggressions that the environment can produce. By way of nonlimiting examples, mention may be made of aggressions such as pollution, UV radiation, in particular UVB radiation, for example linked to overexposure to the sun, irritating products such as surfactants, preservatives or perfumes, mechanical aggression such as abrasions, shaving or hair removal. Pollution is understood to mean both "external" pollution due for example to diesel particles, ozone or heavy metals, and "internal" pollution, which may be due in particular to the solvent emissions of paints, glues , or wallpaper (such as toluene, styrene, xylene or benzaldehyde), or even cigarette smoke. In this respect, the invention is also illustrated by the study of the activity on the skin of a cosmetic product according to Example 1 above, comprising 10.42% of immortal oily macerate. dunes and 0.8% dried flowers of immortelle dunes. A first test is more specifically intended to measure the immediate effect and the effect after 28 days of application of such a composition. The oil composition, non-irritating (test after single application under semi-occlusive dressing for 48 hours not shown), was thus tested on a panel of 25 female volunteers, aged at least 40 years old, presenting any type of skin. . The principle of the study is to apply a given amount of this composition on clean skin, in the face, morning and evening, for a period of 28 days. Under such conditions, the following results were obtained: a) Immediate effect Criteria% of satisfaction The skin is hydrated 100 The skin is comfortable 100 The skin is smoother 96 The skin is nourished 96 The skin is silky 100 The skin is bright 87 Skin is radiant 87 b) Effect after 28 days of application Criteria% of satisfaction The skin is nourished 96 The skin is firmed 75 The skin is repaired 83 The skin is soothed 96 The skin is luminous 92 The skin is radiant 87 The skin is supple 100 The skin is soft 100 The oval of the face is redesigned 50 The wrinkles and fine lines are faded 65 The marks of the age are attenuated 56 The skin looks younger 61 30 3034015 We notice that the application on the The face of a composition according to the invention comprising dried flowers of immortelle dunes and an oily immortelle macerate of the dunes immediately imparts a moisturized, comfortable and silky skin feeling, the skin becoming n notably more supple and soft. After application, the skin appears younger, and age-related skin marks such as wrinkles or fine lines are reduced and faded. A second test is more specifically intended to measure the effect after 3 days of application of such a composition according to Example 1. The oil composition was thus tested on a panel of 23 female volunteers, aged at least 50 years, presenting any type of skin.

The principle of the study consists in applying a given quantity of this composition to clean skin, at the level of the face, once a day for a period of 3 consecutive days. Under such conditions, the following results were obtained: a) Effect after 3 days of application Criteria% of satisfaction The skin is soft 91 The skin is hydrated 83 The skin is nourished 83 The skin is comfortable 83 The skin is silky 73 The skin is smoother 78 The skin is bright 83 The skin is radiant 83 The skin is firmed 69 The marks of aging are reduced 70 The skin looks younger 74 The product has an overall anti-aging effect 70 31 3034015 On notes that the application on the face of a composition according to the invention comprising dried flowers of immortelle dunes and an oily macerate of immortelle dunes can quickly find a soft, hydrated, bright and radiant skin. Of course, the invention is not limited to the embodiments and examples presented above and the person skilled in the art, through routine operations, may be led to realize other embodiments not explicitly described, which fall within the broad scope of the invention. 32

Claims (10)

REVENDICATIONS1. Composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, 0.1 to 5% of immortelle flowering heads dried by weight of the total weight of the composition. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises 0.8% immortelle flower heads dried by weight of the total weight of the composition. 10 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it further comprises an aqueous or oily extract of immortelle. 15 4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that it comprises 0.1 to 99.9% of the immortelle extract by weight of the total weight of the composition. 5. Composition according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that the mass ratio of immortelle extract with the flowering heads of immortelle dried is between 5/1 and 19/1, preferably about 13/1. 6. Composition according to one of Claims 3 to 5, characterized in that the immortelle extract is an oily extract obtained from the dried and crushed flower heads of immortelle, by maceration at room temperature for a period of time. at least 10 min and a maximum of 10 days in a vegetable oil selected from sunflower oil, sesame oil, apricot oil, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, argan or wheat germ oil. 7. The composition as claimed in claim 6, characterized in that the mass ratio of the flowering heads of immortelle with the vegetable extraction oil is between 1/10 and 3034015 33 1/25, preferentially about 1/19, in the oily extract of immortelle. 8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the immortelle flowering tops used as such and / or in the immortelle extract are flowering heads of immortelle selected from the species Helichrysum stoechas Helichrysum arenarium, Helichrysum italicum, Helichrysum angustifolium, Rock helichrysum, Helichrysum boisieri nyman, preferentially the immortal dune (Helichrysum stoechas). 9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is formulated to be applied topically to the skin in the form of serum, gel, lotion, oil or biphase composition. 10. Cosmetic use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, to improve the barrier function of the skin and to fight against the appearance of signs of skin aging.