FR3046061B1 - COMPOSITION COMPRISING TWO NEUTRALIZED FATTY ACIDS, DIFFERENT FROM ONE ANOTHER, AND A PARTICULAR CLAY - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least two neutralized fatty acids, different from one another, and one or more particular clay (s). The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, using a cosmetic composition comprising one or more neutralized fatty acid (s) and one or more clay. (s) particular (s), as well as the use of said composition.

Description

Composition comprising two neutralized fatty acids, different from each other, and a particular clay

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least two neutralized fatty acids, different from one another, and one or more particular clay (s).

The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, using a cosmetic composition comprising one or more neutralized fatty acid (s) and one or more clay. (s) particular (s), as well as the use of said composition.

For a long time, many people have been trying to change the color of their hair and in particular to hide their white hair.

A first type of staining is so-called semi-permanent staining or direct staining which consists in applying to the keratin fibers direct dyes which are colored and coloring molecules, having an affinity for the fibers, to be allowed to pause to allow the molecules to penetrate. , by diffusion inside the fiber, then rinsing them. This process is generally carried out in an alkaline medium.

However, although they are particularly chromatic, the resulting colorations are temporary or semi-permanent. Indeed, the nature of the interactions that bind the direct dyes to the keratinous fiber, and their desorption of the surface and / or the core of the fiber are responsible for their low dyeing power and their poor resistance to washes.

There is then a second type of coloration which makes it possible to obtain so-called permanent colorations. These permanent dyes are obtained by an oxidation dyeing process using dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally called oxidation bases. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds by a process of oxidative condensation.

The shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with couplers or color modifiers. The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colors to be obtained.

Most of these permanent coloring methods provide a good level of coverage of white hair. However, they require the presence of an oxidizing agent in an alkaline medium. And these conditions are all the harder than the desired degree of coverage of white hair of the hair is important.

Now, one of the difficulties of these direct dyeing and oxidation processes comes especially from this alkaline medium, and more particularly from ammonia, which is the alkaline agent most commonly used. The use of ammonia is particularly advantageous in this type of process. It makes it possible to adjust the pH of the composition to an alkaline pH to allow the activation of the oxidizing agent. It causes in particular a swelling of the keratin fiber, with an opening of the scales, which promotes the penetration of direct dyes and oxidation inside the fiber, and thus increases the efficiency of the coloring reaction.

But, this alkaline agent is very volatile, which causes inconvenience to the user because of the strong characteristic odor, rather uncomfortable ammonia that emerges during the process.

In addition, the amount of ammonia released requires the use of higher levels than necessary to compensate for this loss. This is not without consequences for the user who remains not only bothered by the smell but may also be faced with greater risks of intolerance, such as irritation of the scalp resulting in particular tingling.

It was then proposed to replace all or part of the ammonia with one or more other alkaline agents, such as alkanolamines, and especially with monoethanolamine. Indeed, unlike ammonia, this alkaline agent has the advantage of being low odor and low volatile. However, after application of a coloring product containing monoethanolamine followed by a shampoo, the latter is not completely eliminated from the fiber because of its low volatility. The presence of residual monoethanolamine molecules inside the fiber can lead to embrittlement of the fiber and impair its integrity, which can result in adverse cosmetic properties.

Thus, there is a real need to provide a composition that makes it possible to enhance and / or improve the integrity of fibers that have undergone coloration (direct or oxidation) in the presence of alkanolamines, and in particular monoethanolamine. .

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that a composition comprising at least two neutralized fatty acids, which are different from one another, and one or more particular clay (s), makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out below. before; in particular to improve the integrity of the fibers having undergone direct staining and / or oxidation.

The subject of the present invention is in particular a cosmetic composition comprising at least two fatty acids that are different from one another, chosen from fatty acids in the form neutralized with one or more mineral bases or in the form of salts. of fatty acids, and one or more clay (s) chosen from the family of smectites. The composition according to the present invention makes it possible in particular to strengthen and improve the integrity of keratin fibers, and in particular keratin fibers which have undergone direct staining and / or oxidation.

The composition according to the invention also gives the hairs good cosmetic properties while preserving the qualities of the coloring.

The subject of the present invention is also a process for treating keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising the following steps: a first step of direct dyeing and / or oxidation of the keratin fibers, and then a second step of applying to said keratinous fibers a composition comprising one or more fatty acids chosen from fatty acids in the form neutralized with one or more mineral bases or in the form of of salts of fatty acids, and one or more clay (s) chosen (s) in the family of smectites.

The present invention finally relates to the use of a composition as defined above for the treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, which have undergone direct staining and / or oxidation. Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field, especially in the expressions "between" and "from ... to ...".

Moreover, the expressions "at least one", "at least two" and "at least" used in the present description are respectively equivalent to the terms "one or more", "two or more" and "greater than or equal to".

Neutralized fatty acids

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least two fatty acids that are different from one another, chosen from fatty acids in the form neutralized with one or more mineral bases or in the form of fatty acid salts. .

By "different from each other" is meant, in the sense of the present invention, two fatty acids whose chemical structures are different.

The fatty acids are advantageously chosen from carboxylic acids comprising a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the fatty acids are chosen from lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid and mixtures thereof, and more preferably the fatty acids are lauric acid and myristic acid.

The fatty acids are generally introduced into the composition in free form, that is to say in acid form (-COOH). The addition of one or more mineral base (s) then allows their neutralization within the composition itself.

The total amount of fatty acids, expressed relative to the free-form fatty acids, is preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition.

The mineral base (s) used to neutralize the fatty acids are advantageously chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia and their mixtures.

More preferably, the one or more inorganic bases are chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, and more preferably the mineral base is potassium hydroxide.

The total amount of the mineral base (s) present in the composition according to the invention is preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The fatty acid salts are preferably chosen from the sodium salts and the potassium salts of the said fatty acids.

More preferentially, the fatty acid salts are chosen from potassium laurate, sodium laurate, potassium myristate, sodium myristate and mixtures thereof.

clays

The composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more clay (s) chosen from the family of smectites.

Smectites belong to the general family of silicates, and more particularly phyllosilicates.

The silicates correspond to optionally hydrated silica, part of the silicon atoms of which are replaced by metal cations such as Al3 +, B3 +, Fe3 +, Ga3 +, Be2 +, Zn2 +, Mg2 +, Co3 +, Ni3 +, Na +, Li +, Ca2 +, Cu2 +.

The structure of phyllosilicates usually corresponds to a stack of tetrahedral (S1O4) and octahedral sheets A1 (OH) 6 with the possibility of substitution of Al ions by other metal ions (Mg, Fe, etc.) in the octahedral sheets. . As a result, there is a complex classification of these minerals into different groups according to their chemical structure, that is to say according to the combination of these layers in so-called interfoliar spaces. The most known phyllosilicates are the kaolinite, talc, mica, smectite or sepiolite groups. In addition to the composition / chemical structure of phyllosilicates, one of the parameters used to differentiate them is their cationic exchange capacity (CEC) in relation to the presence of cations in interfoliar spaces.

These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. Preferably, clays are used which are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with the keratin materials.

The clay or clays of the type of smectites, present in the composition according to the invention, are preferably chosen from montmorillonite, hectorite, bentonite, beidellite, saponite and mixtures thereof, and more preferably clay is the montmorillonite.

Preferably, the clay or clays that can be used in the present invention have a cation exchange capacity (CEC) greater than 45 mEq / 100 g (or 45 cmol / kg, that is to say 45 cmol of positive charge per kg). The value of CEC can be determined according to various techniques, and in particular those described in the Handbook of Clay Science 2nd Edition Part B: Techniques and Applications (Chapter 2.11.4) edited by F. Bergaya and G. Lagaly.

The total amount of the smectite-type clay or clays, present in the composition according to the invention, is preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the weight. total of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more additional clays, different clays selected from the family of smectites, as described above.

These additional clays preferably have a CEC value lower than the CEC value of the clays chosen in the smectite family, and in particular a CEC value of less than 45 mEq / 100 g.

The additional clays or clays are preferably chosen from sepiolite, talc, kaolin, mica and their mixtures.

surfactants

The composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more surfactant (s).

The surfactant (s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more nonionic surfactant (s).

Nonionic surfactants that can be used are described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. PORTER, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178. By way of examples of nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of the following nonionic surfactants: oxyalkylenated (C 8 -C 24) alkyl phenols; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated Cs to C40 alcohols, comprising one or two fatty chains; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated Cs to C30 fatty acid amides; saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 8 -C 30 acid esters of polyethylene glycols; saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 8 to C 30 esters of acids, and preferably oxyethylenated sorbitol; esters of sucrose fatty acids, (C 8 -C 30) alkyls (poly) glucosides and (C 8 -C 30) alkenyls (poly) glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 carbon atoms; glucose units, (C8-C30) alkyl esters (poly) glucosides, - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; derivatives of N-alkyl (C8-C30) glucamine and N-acyl (C8-C30) -methylglucamine; aldobionamides; amine oxides; oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated silicones, and mixtures thereof.

The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated units, oxypropylene, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated.

The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide is preferably from 1 to 250, more preferably from 2 to 100; better from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges from 1 to 50, more preferably from 1 to 10.

Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylene units. As an example of nonionic glycerolated surfactants, it is preferable to use C 8 to C 40 mono- or polyglycerolated alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol. By way of example of compounds of this type, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 moles of glycerol, and oleic alcohol. to 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleic alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol to 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol to 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol to 6 moles of glycerol.

Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the alcohol Cg / Cio to one mole of glycerol, the C10 / C12 alcohol to 1 mole of glycerol and the C12 alcohol to 1.5 moles of glycerol.

The nonionic surfactant (s) that can be used in the dyeing composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from: - C 8 to C 40 oxyethylenated alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and having one or two fatty chains; saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50; - C8-C3o alkyls (poly) glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 EO) and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units; - C8-C40 alcohols, mono- or poly-glycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C 8 to C 30 fatty acid amides; saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 8 to C 30 esters of polyethylene glycols; - and their mixtures.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more cationic surfactant (s).

The term "cationic surfactant" means a positively charged surfactant when it is contained in the compositions according to the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or contain one or more cationizable functions within the compositions according to the invention.

The cationic surfactant or surfactants are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C 8 to C 30 hydrocarbon chain. As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may be made, for example, of: (i) those corresponding to the following general formula (I):

in which the groups R28 to R31, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the R28 groups at R 31 denoting a group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from C1 to C30 alkyl, C1 to C30 alkoxy, poly (C2-C6) alkoxyalkylene, C1 to C30 alkylamide, (C2-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkyl, ( C12-C22) acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl; X "is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulfates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylarylsulfonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (I), tetraalkylammonium salts, for example dialkyl dimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred. carbon, in particular the salts of behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium or, on the other hand, the salts of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, of stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium, the salts of stearamidopropyldimethylcétéaryl ammonium, or the salts of stearamidopropyldimethyl- (myristylacetate) ammonium. sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by VAN DYK. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of its compounds. (ii) the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of formula (II) below:

wherein R32 is alkenyl or alkyl having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R33 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R34 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R35 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X 'is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl or alkylaryl sulphonates, the

The alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively.

Preferably, R 32 and R 33 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 34 denotes a methyl group and R 35 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO. (iii) quaternary di or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (III):

wherein, R 36 denotes an alkyl radical having about 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R37 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms. carbon or a group (R36a) (R37a) (R38a) N- (CH2) 3, R36a, R37a, R38a, R38, R39, R40 and R41, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X 'is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates.

Such compounds are, for example, the Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), the Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75). (iv) quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (IV) below:

wherein R42 is selected from C1 to C6 alkyl and hydroxyalkyl or C1 to C6 dihydroxyalkyl; R43 is selected from: - the group

the R47 groups which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 to C 22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom, R 45 is chosen from: the group

the R49 groups which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C1 to C6 hydrocarbon groups, the identical or different hydrogen atom, R44, R46 and R48, are chosen from C7 to C21 hydrocarbon groups; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X 'is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R43 is R47 and that when z is 0 then R45 is R49 ·

The alkyl groups R42 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R 42 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R43 is a hydrocarbon R47 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R45 is a hydrocarbon R49 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R44, R46 and R48, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11 to C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated C11 to C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. or unsaturated.

Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2. The anion X 'is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate more particularly methyl sulphate . However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The anion X 'is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate.

In the dyeing composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (IV) are used more particularly in which: R 42 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is 0 or 1; r, s and t are 2; R43 is selected from: - the group

methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups,

- the hydrogen atom; R45 is selected from: - the group

- the hydrogen atom; R44, R46 and R48, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups; .

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

There may be mentioned, for example, the compounds of formula (IV) such as the salts (in particular chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethylmethylammonium, of triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, with C 10 -C 30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C 10 -C 30 fatty acids. plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methanesulfonate. methyl, para-toluenesulfonate methyl, chlorohydrin glycol or glycerol.

Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

The composition according to the present invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

Behenoylhydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride proposed by KAO can be used under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.

Preferably the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that can be used, it is preferred to use dipalmethylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium salts.

The cationic surfactants are preferably chosen from those of formula (I) and those of formula (IV), and even more preferably from those of formula (I).

The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more anionic surfactant (s).

The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups -COOH, -COO-, -SO3H, -SO3 ', -OSO3H, -OSO3 ·, -PO2H2, -PO2H-, -PO22-, -P (OH) 2, = P (O) OH, -P (OH) O-, = P (O) O-, = POH, = PO ', the anionic parts comprising a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium. As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the dyeing composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates and alkylarylsulphonates. alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, alkyl monoesters and polyglucoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether carboxylic acids, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl radicals of all these compounds having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.

These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C 1 -C 24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglucoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C 1 to C 24 alkyl polyglucoside-citrates, C 7 to C 24 alkyl polyglucoside-tartrates and polyglucosides. alkyl sulphosuccinates Ce to C24 ·

When the anionic surfactant (s) is in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and aminoalcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts. By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl-1- propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.

The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

Of the anionic surfactants mentioned, it is preferred to use (C 6 -C 24) alkyl sulphates, C 6 -C 24 alkylsulphates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal salts, ammonium, aminoalcohols, and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds.

In particular, it is preferred to use the (C 12 -C 20) alkyl sulphates, the C 12 -C 20 alkyl ethers containing from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal salts, ammonium, aminoalcohols, and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds. More preferably, it is preferred to use sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s) surfactant (s).

In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s), preferably non-silicone surfactants, that may be used in the composition according to the present invention may be in particular derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear chain. or branched having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate group, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate.

Mention may in particular be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkyl sulphobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamidoalkyl (C 3 -C 8) alkyl,

Cebbetaines and (C8-C20) alkylamid (C6-C8) alkyl sulfobetaines.

Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which may be used, as defined above, there may also be mentioned the compounds of respective structures (V) and (VI):

Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N + (Rb) (Rc) -CH2COO ·, M +, X '(V) in which,

Ra represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and

Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and X 'represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methylsulphate and ethylsulphate; or else M + and X 'are absent;

Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (B ') (VI) wherein B is -CH2CH2OX'; B 'represents the group - (CH2) ZY', with z = 1 or 2; X 'represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2-COOZ ', or a hydrogen atom; Y 'represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH (OH) SO3H or the group CH2CH (OH) SO3-Z '; Z 'represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

Ra 'represents a C 10 to C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an R o -COOH acid, preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially C 17, and its iso form, a group in unsaturated C17.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, capryloamphodipropionate disodium, acid lauroamphodipropionic, cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

It is also possible to use compounds of formula (VII);

Ra '' - NHCH (Y ") - (CH2) nCONH (CH2) nN (Rd) (Re) (VII) wherein - Y" represents the group -COOH, -COOZ ", -CH2-CH (OH) SO3H or CH2CH (OH) SO3-Z ";

Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; Z "represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

Ra "represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an R a -COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil; n and n ', independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds of formula (VII), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of alkyl (C 8 -C 20) betaines such as cocobetaine, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 3 -C 8) alkyl betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. compounds of formula (VII) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl lauryl amino succinamate (INCI name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).

The surfactant or surfactants present in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and more preferably alkyl (C 8 -C 20) betaines such as cocobetaine, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamidoalkyl (C 3 -C Cjbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the total amount of the surfactant (s) present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. .

silicones

The composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more silicones.

The silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from amino groups, aryl groups, hydroxyl groups and alkoxy groups. Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE ® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE® SILICONE FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula:

Cyclic polydialkylsiloxane mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon may also be mentioned, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '- (hexa). -2,2,2 ', 2', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200 "by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics".

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the above organofunctional groups and mixtures thereof are preferably used.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The

Silicone viscosity is measured at 25 ° C according to ASTM Standard 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA, such as, for example, the 70 047 V 500 000 oil; the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by RHODIA; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA.

In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT, which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.

The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures.

More particularly useful products according to the invention are mixtures such as: - mixtures formed from an end-hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such that the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company Dow Corning; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE 30 gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil.

The organopolysiloxane resins used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R 2 SiO 2/2, R 3 SiO 1/2, RSlO 3/2 and SiO 4/2 in which R represents an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl.

Among these resins may be mentioned the product marketed under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.

The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m2 / s at 25 ° C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made by way of example of the products sold under the following names: SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; - the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 RHODIA series of oils; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from Dow Corning; the silicones of the PK series of BAYER, such as the product PK20; the silicones of the PN, PH series of BAYER, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; - some oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may also be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, for instance the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee, or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and AB IL Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT. hydroxy groups, such as the product sold under the name Belsil DM 3560 VP by the company Wacker.

Organic solvents

The composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more organic solvent (s). Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched C2 to C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of the organic solvent or solvents, when present in the composition, is preferably from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. composition.

additives

The composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which mention may be made of fatty substances, cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers, or mixtures thereof, the agents anti-dandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, agents for preventing and / or regrowing hair, vitamins and provitamines including panthenol, sunscreens, inorganic or organic pigments, sequestering agents, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, inorganic or organic thickeners, especially polymeric thickeners, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservatives, pigments and ceramides.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition or additions envisaged .

The above additives can generally be present in an amount for each of them ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use composition.

Treatment process

The subject of the present invention is also a process for treating keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising the following steps: a first step of direct dyeing and / or oxidation of the keratin fibers, and then a second step of applying to said keratinous fibers a composition comprising one or more fatty acids chosen from fatty acids in the form neutralized with one or more mineral bases or in the form of salts of fatty acids, as defined above, and one or more clay (s) chosen (s) in the family of smectites, as defined above.

Preferably, the step of direct dyeing and / or oxidation of keratin fibers uses one or more alkaline agent (s).

The alkaline agent (s) may be inorganic, organic or hybrid.

The inorganic alkaline agent (s) is (are) preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates, such as sodium or potassium carbonates or bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, or mixtures thereof.

The organic alkaline agent (s) is (are) preferably chosen from organic amines whose pKb at 25 ° C. is less than 12, and preferably less than 10, and even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is pKb corresponding to the highest basicity function. In addition, the organic amines do not comprise a fatty chain, alkyl or alkenyl, comprising more than ten carbon atoms.

The organic alkaline agent (s) are, for example, chosen from alkanolamines, ethoxylated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and compounds of formula (VIII) below:

wherein, W is a divalent C1 to C6 alkylene radical optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups or a C1 to C6 alkyl radical, and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as O, or NRU; Rx, Ry, Rz, Rt, Ru and the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl or C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, C1-C6 aminoalkyl radical.

Examples of amines of formula (VIII) include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.

By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C 1 to C 8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.

In particular, the organic amines chosen from alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three identical or different C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, are suitable in particular for carrying out the invention.

Among compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N, N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol and triisopropanol. amine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane.

More particularly, the amino acids that can be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D, or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from the carboxylic, sulphonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions. Amino acids can be in neutral or ionic form. As amino acids that can be used in the composition according to the present invention, mention may in particular be made of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine and carnitine. , cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.

Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function.

Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (IX), and also their R-CH 2 -CH (NH 2) -C (O) -OH (IX) salts in which R represents a chosen group. from imidazolyl, preferably imidazolyl-4-yl; aminopropyl; aminoethyl; - (CH 2) 2 N (H) -C (O) -NH 2; and - (CH2) 2-N (H) -C (NH) -NH2.

The compounds corresponding to formula (IX) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline. The organic amine may also be chosen from heterocyclic organic amines. In addition to the histidine already mentioned in the amino acids, mention may be made, in particular, of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be selected from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, carnosine, anserin and balenine may be mentioned in particular. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds containing a guanidine function. As amines of this type which can be used in the present invention, mention may in addition be made of the arginine already mentioned as amino acid, creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2 - ([amino (imino) methyl] amino) ethane-1 acid sulfonic. As hybrid compounds, mention may be made of the salts of the amines mentioned above with acids such as carbonic acid and hydrochloric acid.

In particular, guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride can be used.

Preferably, the alkaline agent (s) used in the first step of the treatment process according to the present invention are chosen from ammonia, alkanolamines and their mixtures, and more preferentially from alkanolamines. More preferably, the alkaline agent is monoethanolamine. The direct dyeing and / or oxidation step furthermore makes use of a dyeing composition comprising one or more oxidation dye (s) and / or one or more direct dyes.

The oxidation dyes that can be used in the dyeing step are precursors of oxidation dyes. As oxidation dye precursors, oxidation bases and couplers may be used. By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, their addition salts and their mixtures.

Among the paraphenylenediamines, there may be mentioned, for example, para-phenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, Ν, Ν-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, Ν, Ν-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, Ν, Ν-dipropyl paraphenylenediamine, 4-amino-Ν, Ν-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N, N- bis- (3-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis- (3-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis (3-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-3-hydroxyethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl paraphenylene diamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N- (β-hydroxypropyl) -paraphenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, Ν, Ν-dimethyl-3 methyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N- (ethyl, β-hydroxyethyl) pa triphenylenediamine, N- (3, γ-dihydroxypropyl) paraphenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) paraphenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenylenediamine, (3-methoxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino 5-amino toluene, 3-hydroxy 1- (4'-aminophenyl) pyrrolidine and their addition salts with an acid.

Of the paraphenylenediamines mentioned above, paraphenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-isopropyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-hydroxyethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-hydroxyethyloxy paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis-β-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,4-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and acid-addition salts thereof are particularly preferred.

Among the bis-phenylalkylenediamines, mention may be made, for example, of N, N'-bis (4-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1-diamino propanol, N, N '. N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (N-hydroxyethyl) N N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-methylaminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (ethyl) N, N'-bis- (4-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine) amino, 3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, 1,8-bis (2,5-diamino phenoxy) -3,6-dioxaoctane, and their addition salts.

Among para-aminophenols, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluoro phenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4- amino 3-hydroxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- hydroxyethyl aminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluoro phenol, 4-methylamino phenol and their addition salts with an acid.

Among the ortho-aminophenols, mention may be made, for example, of 2-amino phenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and their addition salts.

Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned by way of example are pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.

Among the pyridine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described for example in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5-diamino pyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-amino pyridine, 3,4-diamino pyridine, and their addition salts. Other pyridinic oxidation bases useful in the present invention are the 3-amino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridines oxidation bases or their addition salts described for example in the patent application FR 2801308. By way of example, mention may be made of pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-acetylamino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-carboxylic acid; 2-methoxy-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamino; (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) -methanol; 2- (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-yl) -ethanol; 2- (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) -ethanol; (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-yl) -methanol; 3,6-diamino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; 3,4-diamino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3,7-diamine; 7-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3,5-diamine; 5-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2 - [(3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol; 2 - [(3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-4-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-6-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-ol; 2 - [(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-yl) oxy] ethanol and their addition salts.

Among the pyrimidine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765 such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2.4 - dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when there is a tautomeric equilibrium.

Among the pyrazole derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described in DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988 as the 4.5 1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1- (β-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diamino pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5 1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazino pyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methyl-pyrazole, diamino 1- (3-hydroxyethyl) 3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 4,5 1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-meth 1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4-amino 5- (2'-aminoethyl) amino 1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 1-methyl 3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4- (3-hydroxyethyl) amino-1-methyl pyrazole, and their addition salts. It is also possible to use 4-5-diamino-1- (β-methoxyethyl) pyrazole.

Preferably, use will be made of a 4,5-diaminopyrazole and even more preferentially 4,5-diamino-1- (3-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and / or one of its salts or solvates. As pyrazole derivatives, mention may also be made of diamino Ν, Ν-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and especially those described in application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and their addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6 7-Dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol -1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3- (pyrrolidin-1-yl) ) -6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1,2-dihydro-pyrazol 3-one, 2-amino-3- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6 7-Dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H, 6H-pyridazino [1,2-a] ] pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5- (pyrrolidin-1-yl) -1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5- (3-dimetrate) Hylamino-pyrrolidin-1-yl) -1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1 , 2-a] pyrazol-1-one.

It will be preferred to use 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one and / or a salt or solvate thereof. As heterocyclic bases, 4,5-diamino-1- (3-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-] will preferably be used. a] pyrazol-1-one and / or 2 - [(3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-yl) oxy] ethanol and / or a salt or solvates thereof.

Among the couplers that can be used in the composition according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers such as, for example, indole derivatives, indoline derivatives, sesamol and its derivatives, pyridine derivatives, pyrazolotriazole derivatives, pyrazolones, indazoles, benzimidazoles, benzothiazoles, benzoxazoles, 1,3-benzodioxoles, quinolines, and the addition salts of these compounds with an acid.

These couplers are more particularly chosen from 2,4-diamino-1- (3-hydroxyethyloxy) -benzene, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N- (3-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methyl- phenol, 3-amino-phenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methyl-benzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-4- (3-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methoxybenzene, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 1,3-diamino-benzene, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -propane, sesamol, 1-amino-2-methoxy-4,5-methylenedioxybenzene, oc-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 6-hydroxy-indoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methyl-pyridine, 1H-3-methyl-pyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methyl-pyrazol-5-one, 2- amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,6-dimethyl-pyrazolo [3,2-c] -1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl-pyrazolo [1,5-b] -1, 2,4-triazole, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, their addition salts with an acid, and mixtures thereof.

The addition salts of the oxidation bases and the couplers are in particular chosen from acid addition salts such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates and tosylates. , benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.

The oxidation base (s) are generally present each in an amount ranging from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.

The coupler (s) are generally present each in an amount ranging from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.

The direct dyes that can be used in the dyeing step can be direct synthetic or natural dyes. The direct dyes may in particular be cationic or nonionic. By way of example of particularly suitable direct dyes, mention may be made of the nitro dyes of the benzene series; azo direct dyes; azomethines; methinic; azacarbocyanines such as tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines); quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone dyes; direct azine dyes; xanthenics; triarylmethanics; indoamines; indigoids; phthalocyanines, porphyrins and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures. In particular, mention may be made of azo direct dyes; methinic; carbonyls; azinic; nitro (hetero) aryl; tri- (hetero) aryl methanes; porphyrins; phthalocyanines and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.

The composition applied to the keratinous fibers during the second step of the process of the invention advantageously corresponds to the composition according to the invention, as described above. In other words, the composition preferably comprises at least two fatty acids, different from one another, chosen from fatty acids in the form neutralized with one or more mineral bases or in the form of salts of fatty acids, and one or more clay (s) chosen from the family of smectites.

In particular, the process according to the invention is carried out on dry or moist keratinous fibers.

According to a preferred embodiment, the process of the invention may optionally comprise a step of rinsing the keratinous fibers with water between the first and second stages.

The process according to the invention preferably comprises a step of rinsing with water of the fibers at the end of the second step of the process of the invention. At the end of the process of the invention, the keratinous fibers may preferably be dried or allowed to dry.

use

Finally, the present invention relates to the use of a composition, comprising one or more fatty acid (s), chosen from fatty acids in the form neutralized with one or more mineral base (s) or in the form of of fatty acid salts, as defined above, and one or more clay (s) chosen (s) in the family of smectites, as defined above, for treating keratinous fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, which have undergone direct staining and / or oxidation.

Preferably, the composition is that described above, that is to say that it comprises at least two fatty acids different from each other, chosen from fatty acids in the form neutralized with one or more bases (s). ) mineral (s) or in the form of salts of fatty acids, and one or more clay (s) chosen (s) in the family of smectites.

The term "keratinous fibers" according to the present application denotes human keratinous fibers and more particularly the hair.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLES a. compositions

The composition (Al) according to the present invention and the comparative compositions (B1), (B2) and (B3) were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated, as a percentage by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition, in the table below.

b. Operating mode

Strands of hair, each weighing lg, were previously washed with a DOP® shampoo, before being stained with the oxidation dye product marketed under the name ÎN0A2®. The staining process uses monoethanolamine.

The locks thus colored were then rinsed and then washed with the compositions (A1), (B1), (B2) and (B3). Each composition was applied at a rate of 0.4 g of composition per gram of lock.

The denaturation temperature was then determined for each of the locks, using DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry) calorimetry measurements according to the following protocol.

About 1 mm of fibers were cut with scissors. Then 2.5 mg of hair and 12.5 mg of ultrapure water were weighed into a closed stainless steel cup placed at high pressure. The following thermal program was then applied: heating from 10 ° C to 180 ° C at a temperature increase of 10 ° C / min.

Two trials per treatment were performed.

The higher the denaturation temperature, the better the integrity of the fiber. vs. Results

The averages of the results obtained are given in the table below (n = 2).

The results show that the fibers on which the composition (Al) of the invention was applied have a higher denaturation temperature than the fibers treated with the comparative compositions (B1), (B2) and (B3).

The composition according to the present invention improves the integrity of fibers which have previously undergone an oxidation dyeing process.

Claims (14)

1. Cosmetic composition comprising at least two fatty acids which are different from one another and which are chosen from fatty acids in the form neutralized with one or more mineral bases or in the form of fatty acid salts. and a clay selected from the family of smectites, in a total amount ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; the clay being montmorillonite. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fatty acids are chosen from carboxylic acids comprising a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 10 to 18 atoms. of carbon. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acids are chosen from lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid and their mixtures, and preferably the fatty acids are acid. lauric and myristic acid. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of fatty acids, expressed relative to the fatty acids in free form, ranges from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mineral base (s) are chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia and their mixtures; preferably from alkali metal hydroxides; and more preferably the mineral base is potassium hydroxide. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of the mineral base or bases ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the salts of fatty acids are chosen from sodium salts and potassium salts of said fatty acids, and preferably from potassium laurate, the sodium laurate, potassium myristate, sodium myristate and mixtures thereof. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of the clay ranges from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more surfactant (s) chosen (s) from nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants. or zwitterionic, and preferably selected from amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. 10. Composition according to Claim 9, characterized in that the total amount of the surfactant (s) ranges from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 11. A process for treating keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising the following steps: a first step of direct dyeing and / or oxidation of the keratinous fibers, then a second step of applying to said keratinous fibers a composition comprising one or more fatty acids selected from fatty acids in the form neutralized with one or more mineral bases or in the form of acid salts fat, and one or more clay (s) chosen from the family of smectites. 12. Process according to claim 11, characterized in that the step of direct dyeing and / or oxidation of the keratin fibers uses one or more alkaline agent (s), preferably chosen from alkanolamines, and more preferably the alkaline agent is monoethanolamine. 13. Method according to any one of claims 11 or 12, characterized in that the composition applied to the keratin fibers in the second step is as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10. 14. Use of a composition comprising one or more fatty acids chosen from fatty acids in the form neutralized with one or more mineral bases or in the form of fatty acid salts. and one or more clay (s) selected from the family of smectites for treating keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, which have undergone direct staining and / or oxidation.