FR2843019A1 - Composition for e.g. lipstick comprises fatty acid ester of dextrin as thickener and gelling agent - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition containing a continuous liquid fatty phase gelled or thickened with at least one fatty acid ester of dextrin with a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of one repeating unit, for example one glucose unit. Composition containing a continuous liquid fatty phase gelled or thickened with at least one fatty acid ester of dextrin with a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of one repeating unit, for example one glucose unit. The fatty phase contains an oil or a mixture of oils that has solubility parameters deltad, deltap and deltah satisfying equation (1). (4(deltad-deltade)2 + (deltap-deltape)2 + (deltah-deltahe)2 )1/2 at most 10 (1) deltade, deltape and deltahe are the solubility parameters of the dextrin ester, the liquid fatty phase and the dextrin ester forming a physiologically acceptable medium. An Independent claim is also included for a composition containing a mixture of fatty acid esters of dextrins. One has a degree of substitution less than 2, and one with a degree of substitution greater than 2.

Description

<Desc / Clms Page number 1>

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition that can be used for care and / or make-up of the skin, semi-mucous membranes, mucous membranes and / or integuments.

In cosmetic or dermatological products, it is common to find a thickened fatty phase; this is particularly the case in ointments, care gels or anhydrous exfoliates, solid compositions such as deodorants, balms and lipsticks.

To remedy exudation and migration, waxes or fillers are usually used. Unfortunately, these waxes and fillers tend to matify the composition, which is not always desirable. In particular, women often look for a shiny lipstick.

It is also known to thicken the oils with polymeric thickeners.

Unfortunately, the known oil thickeners must be used in large quantities to obtain a gel of high viscosity. However, too much thickener gives the composition, when the latter is intended for the cosmetic field, insufficient properties, including a tacky feel and a lack of slippery, these disadvantages can be very troublesome or even crippling.

The present invention aims to provide compositions containing a continuous or external liquid fatty phase, thickened or gelled by a mixture of dextrin esters.

Dextrin esters are generally known as emulsion stabilizers and as oil thickeners in the prior art.

Similarly, JP 63 216 817 discloses a gel containing a low molecular weight cyclic silicone, a fat phase, i.e. vaseline or lanolin, and a dextrin ester.

 JP 04 149 116 discloses a transparent composition containing a dextrin ester-such that its degree of polymerization is between 3 and 100 and the degree of substitution is between 1.4 and 2.4 - and liquid paraffin.

 The application WO 97/11678 describes a gelled antiperspirant gel, in particular with a dextrin ester. The described dextrin ester has a degree of esterification greater than 2. This composition presented as stable has the disadvantage of exuding.

 The applicant has observed that the compositions of the prior art tend to be covered with droplets of fatty substances over time, and all the more rapidly as the conditions of temperature and / or humidity are high. This phenomenon of exudation of fatty substances is very detrimental because it provokes a repulsion on the part of the users.

 The present invention therefore aims to provide a transparent or translucent composition that does not exude and whose deposit on the skin or lips is glossy. The present invention also aims to provide a transparent or translucent, homogeneous color that has all these advantages.

 Surprisingly, the applicant has found that the use of a mixture of a dextrin ester whose degree of esterification is less than 2 and of a dextrin ester whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 makes it possible to to obtain thickened or gelified compositions, transparent or translucent, stable over time. The application of the composition obtained on the lips leads to a glossy film, non-migrating, comfortable, and homogeneous in color.

<Desc / Clms Page number 2>

This mixture of dextrin esters has the advantage of retaining the oils contained in the fatty phase without mattifying the composition, unlike waxes. It also makes it possible to obtain a composition whose stability is improved.

The invention applies not only to lip makeup products but also to care products and / or treatment of the skin, including the scalp, and lips, such as products including sunscreen stick of the facial skin, to make-up products for the skin, both of the face and of the human body, such as foundations, especially cast in sticks or cups, anti-ring products, eye shadow and ephemeral tattoo products body care products such as deodorants, especially sticks, shampoos and conditioners and eye makeup products such as eyeliners, especially in the form of pencils, and mascaras, especially in the form of breads, and also facial and body care products.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "liquid fatty phase" means a fatty phase that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), composed of one or more fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature. also called "oils", generally compatible with each other.

By "thickened" in the sense of the invention is meant a composition whose viscosity is increased by adding the mixture of dextrin esters, and which flows under its own weight over time.

By "gelled" in the sense of the invention is meant a composition whose viscosity is increased by the addition of the mixture of dextrin esters and which does not flow under its own weight over time.

The subject of the present invention is a composition containing a continuous liquid fatty phase that is gelled or thickened with a sufficient quantity of a mixture containing at least one ester of dextrin and of fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit and at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, the liquid fatty phase and the dextrin esters forming a physiologically acceptable medium.

dans laquelle : - les radicaux R1, R2 et R3, identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi l'hydrogène ou un groupement acyle (R-CO-) dans lequel le radical R est un groupement hydrocarboné, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, possédant 6 à 50, notamment 8 à 30, voire 12-22 et mieux 12-18 atomes de carbone, sous réserve qu'au moins un desdits radicaux R1, R2 ou R3 est différent de l'hydrogène, - n est un entier compris entre 3 et 150, notamment 10 et 100, et de préférence 15-40. The ester of dextrin and of fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit advantageously corresponds to the formula (1)

in which: the radicals R1, R2 and R3, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 50, especially 8 to 30, or even 12 to 22 and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said radicals R 1, R 2 or R 3 is other than hydrogen, - n is an integer inclusive between 3 and 150, especially 10 and 100, and preferably 15-40.

<Desc / Clms Page number 3>

dans laquelle : - les radicaux R1, R2 et R3, représentent l'hydrogène ou un groupement acyle (R-CO-) dans lequel le radical R est un groupement hydrocarboné, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, possédant 6 à 50, notamment 8 à 30, voire 12-22 et mieux 12-18 atomes de carbone, sous réserve qu'au moins un desdits radicaux R1, R2 ou R3 est différent de l'hydrogène, - n est un entier compris entre 3 et 150, notamment 10 et 100, et de préférence 15-40. According to another embodiment, the ester of dextrin and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit advantageously corresponds to formula (II)

in which: the radicals R1, R2 and R3 represent hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 50, in particular 8 to 30, even 12-22 and better 12-18 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said radicals R1, R2 or R3 is different from hydrogen, n is an integer between 3 and 150, especially 10 and 100, and preferably 15-40.

The R-CO- radical of the dextrin ester of formula (I) or (II) is chosen from caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachic, behenic, isobutyric, isovaleric and 2-ethylbutyric radicals. , ethylmethylacetic, isoheptanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, isononanoic, isodecanoic, isotridecanoic, isomyristic, isopalmitic, isostearic, isoaracic, isohexanoic, decenoic, dodecenoic, tetradecenoic, myristoleic, hexadecenoic, palmitoleic, oleic, elaidic, asclepinic, gondoleic, eicosenoic, sorbic, linoleic, linolenic, punicic, stearidonic, arachidonic, stearic, and mixtures thereof.

The radical R-CO is advantageously linear. R-CO is preferably the palmitic radical. n is advantageously between 20 and 30, preferably equal to 30.

Preferably, a fatty acid dextrin ester is used, the degree of substitution of which is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, such that the degree of substitution is less than 1.9, preferably less than 1, 8, more preferably is between 1.5 and 1.7.

Some of these dextrin esters are commercially available, especially under the name RHEOPEARL TL from Chiba Flour.

 The molecular weight of the dextrin ester and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit is preferably between 10,000 and 30,000, more preferably between 15,000 and 15,000. 000 and 20,000.

 According to one embodiment, the ester of dextrin and of fatty acid whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit corresponds to formula (III):

<Desc / Clms Page number 4>

dans laquelle : - les radicaux R'1, R'2 et R'3, identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi l'hydrogène ou un groupement acyle (R'-CO-) dans lequel le radical R' est un groupement hydrocarboné, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, possédant 6 à 50, notamment 8 à 30, voire 12-22 et mieux 12-18 atomes de carbone, sous réserve qu'au moins un desdits radicaux R'1, R'2 ou R'3 est différent de l'hydrogène, - n est un entier compris entre 3 et 150, notamment 10 et 100, et de préférence 15-40; R' et n peuvent avoir la même signification que R et n décrits précédemment.

in which: the radicals R'1, R'2 and R'3, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group (R'-CO-) in which the radical R 'is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 50, in particular 8 to 30, even 12-22 and better 12 to 18 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said radicals R'1, R'2 or R ' 3 is different from hydrogen; n is an integer of 3 to 150, especially 10 to 100, and preferably 15 to 40; R 'and n can have the same meaning as R and n described previously.

Preferably, a fatty acid dextrin ester is used, the degree of substitution of which is greater than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, such that the degree of substitution is greater than 2.1, preferably between 2, 1 and 2,3.

The molecular weight of the dextrin ester and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit is preferably between 10,000 and 30,000, more preferably between 15 and 15,000. 000 and 20,000.

As examples of dextrin esters of formula (III) according to the invention, mention may be made of Rheopearl KL sold by the company CHIBA FLOUR.

The ester of dextrin and of fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 1 to 50%, preferably from 2 to 25%, preferably 5 to 25%, preferably 10 to 25% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

The mixture of dextrin esters may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of less than 50%, preferably 5 to 40%, preferably 5 to 25% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

 The gelation of the oil or oils of the liquid fatty phase is partly adjustable by the nature and amount of dextrin ester with a degree of substitution of less than 2 used. It is preferably such that one obtains a rigid structure, in the form of a stick or a stick, or pasty. The sticks, when colored, allow after application to obtain a brilliant deposit, homogeneous in color and not migrating into the wrinkles and fine lines of the skin, particularly surrounding the lips, but also the eyes.

 The dextrin ester and fatty acid ester whose degree of substitution is less than 2 and the ester of dextrin and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 are preferably in relative weight proportions varying from 1 / 10 to 2/1, preferably 1/8 to 3/2, more preferably 1/2 to 1/1.

 Fatty phase

<Desc / Clms Page number 5>

[4 sud- de)2 + (bp- 5pie)2 + (5h- 6h )2 ]1/2 ::; 10 de. #pe et #he étant les paramètres de solubilité d'un des esters de dextrine. According to an implementation mode, the liquid fatty phase has solubility parameters #d, #p and #h satisfying the following conditions:

[4 south of) 2 + (bp-5pie) 2 + (5h- 6h) 2] 1/2 ::; 10 of. #pe and #he being the solubility parameters of one of the dextrin esters.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

The three solubility parameters of Hansen - #d, #p and #h - characterize, for a given constituent, the energies respectively corresponding to the dispersive, polar and hydrogen bonding interactions existing between the molecules of this constituent.

In order for the oil or oil mixture of the liquid fatty phase to be compatible with one of the dextrin esters used, the solubility parameters of said oil or of said oil mixture are chosen so as to be in the range of solubility sphere of said dextrin ester, said sphere being defined by a center of coordinates of, #pe and #he and a radius R of at most 10. The radius is calculated according to the following formula: R = [4 (#d - de) 2 + (# p- #pe) 2 + (5h- #he) 2] 1/2 According to one embodiment, R is less than or equal to 8, preferably 5.

The Hansen solubility parameter values of the dextrin ester are especially such that 17 # 5 of 19, 1 # 5pe 2 and 9 # 5he 11.

The values of the Hansen solubility parameters of the Rheopearl TL ester are respectively = 18.2, # pe = 1.5 and 5he = 9.8.

ÔDmel = Si xi ÔDi ôpmel = L xi 5pi et Ôhmel = L , i XI 5hl où xi représente la fraction volumique de l'huile i dans le mélange. The liquid fatty phase may comprise a mixture of oils. In this case, the solubility parameters of the mixture are determined from those of the oils taken separately, according to the following relationships:

ΔMel = If xi ÔDi ôpmel = L xi 5pi and Ôhmel = L, i XI 5hl where xi represents the volume fraction of the oil i in the mixture.

As an oil satisfying only the conditions of the present invention, mention may be made of fatty acid triglycerides, in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic acid, octanoic acid and capric / caprylic acid, and hydroxylated triglycerides. such as castor oil, synthetic alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, fatty acid esters, especially of 4 to 22 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; polyglyceryl diisostearate, oleic alcohol, hydroxylated synthetic esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, esters of aromatic acids and of alcohols having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, especially tridecyl trimellitate,

<Desc / Clms Page number 6>

 - or their mixtures.

Table 1 below gives the value of the radius of the sphere R = [4 (5d-18,2) 2 + (5p-1,5) 2 + (# h-9,8) 2] 1/2 for different oils compared to the Hansen solubility parameter values of Rheopearl TL. The following oils are within the scope of the present invention without limiting its scope. Other oils verifying the conditions of the invention are available.

TABLE 1

<Tb>
<tb> distance <SEP> between
<tb> Name <SEP> of <SEP> the oil <SEP>#d<SEP>#p<SEP> 8h <SEP> the oil <SEP> and <SEP> the
<tb> Rhéopearl <SEP> TL
<tb> oil <SEP> of <SEP> ricinus <SEP> 16,79 <SEP> 1,27 <SEP> 9 <SEP> 2,9
<tb> Octyl-2-dodecanol <SEP> 16.36 <SEP> 1.43 <SEP> 7.56 <SEP> 4.3
<tb> Alcohol <SEP> Oleylate <SEP> 16.28 <SEP> 1.6 <SEP> 8.01 <SEP> 4.2
<tb> Triglyceride <SEP> of <SEP> Caprylic Acid <SEP> @ <SEP> Capry <SEP> 16.64 <SEP> 1.69 <SEP> 6.47 <SEP> 4.6
<tb> palmitate <SEP> d <SEP> 2-ethylhexyl <SEP> glyceryl <SEP> ether <SEP> 16.53 <SEP> 1.71 <SEP> 7.98 <SEP> 3.8
<tb> hexyldecanol <SEP> 16.26 <SEP> 1.75 <SEP> 8.37 <SEP> 4.1
<tb> behenate <SEP> 2-ethylhexyl <SEP> glyceryl <SEP> 16.57 <SEP> 1.42 <SEP> 7.27 <SEP> 4.1
<tb> Monoisostearate <SEP> of <SEP> Propylene <SEP> Glycol <SEP> 16.36 <SEP> 1.89 <SEP> 8.53 <SEP> 3.9
<tb> tetra-ethyl-2-hexanoate <SEP> of <SEP> 16.55 <SEP> 1.53 <SEP> 6.62 <SEP> 4.6
<tb> pentaerythrityl
<tb> Polyglyceryl <SEP> 3 <SEP> diisostearate <SEP> 16.96 <SEP> 1.64 <SEP> 10.27 <SEP> 2.5
<tb> alcohol <SEP> isostearyl alcohol <SEP> 16.32 <SEP> 1.58 <SEP> 7.94 <SEP> 4.2
<tb> phytantriol <SEP> 16.5 <SEP> 2.52 <SEP> 13.2 <SEP> 4.9
<tb> Citrate <SEP> of <SEP> triisocetyl <SEP> 16.77 <SEP> 1.09 <SEP> 6.74 <SEP> 4.2
<tb> Citrate <SEP> of <SEP> tri-iso <SEP> arachidylate <SEP> 16,77 <SEP> 0.9 <SEP> 6,12 <SEP> 4,7
<tb> Malate <SEP> of <SEP> diisostearyl <SEP> 16.61 <SEP> 1.26 <SEP> 7.08 <SEP> 4.2
<tb> citrate <SEP> of <SEP> tri-isostearyl <SEP> 16.77 <SEP> 0.99 <SEP> 6.4 <SEP> 4.5
<tb> triacetate <SEP> of <SEP> glyceryl <SEP> oxyethylene <SEP> (7 <SEP> OE) <SEP> 16.97 <SEP> 2.98 <SEP> 9.61 <SEP> 2.9
<tb> Tri-mellitate <SEP> of <SEP> tri-decyl <SEP> 17.49 <SEP> 1.12 <SEP> 5.23 <SEP> 4.8
<tb> Tri-heptanoate <SEP> of <SEP> glyceryl <SEP> 16.62 <SEP> 1.99 <SEP> 7.01 <SEP> 4.2
<tb> Polyglyceryl-2 <SEP> triisostearate <SEP> 16.7 <SEP> 1.06 <SEP> 6.61 <SEP> 4.4
<tb> undecylpentadecanol <SEP> 16.45 <SEP> 1.12 <SEP> 6.69 <SEP> 4.7
<tb> PPG10 <SEP> butanediol <SEP> 16.77 <SEP> 2.38 <SEP> 10.73 <SEP> 3.1
<tb> triacetate <SEP> of <SEP> glyceryl <SEP> 16.42 <SEP> 4.57 <SEP> 10.63 <SEP> 4.8
<tb> octyl <SEP> hydroxystearate <SEP> 16.43 <SEP> 1.55 <SEP> 7.73 <SEP> 4.1
<tb> C12-13 <SEP> alkyl <SEP> lactate <SEP> 16.25 <SEP> 2.47 <SEP> 9.76 <SEP> 4.0
<tb> Iso-stearyl Lactate <SEP><SEP> 16.36 <SEP> 1.89 <SEP> 8.53 <SEP> 3.9
<tb> Octyl-2-dodecyl hydroxy-stearate <SEP><SEP> 16.53 <SEP> 1.09 <SEP> 6.47 <SEP> 4.7
<tb> Isso-stearate <SEP> of <SEP> butyl <SEP> 16.6 <SEP> 1.21 <SEP> 6.72 <SEP> 4.5
<tb> Tetra-iso-nonanoate <SEP> of <SEP> pentaerythrityl <SEP> 16.39 <SEP> 1.4 <SEP> 6.32 <SEP> 5.0
<tb> Dibenzoate <SEP> of <SEP> dipropylene <SEP> glycol <SEP> 18.77 <SEP> 2.57 <SEP> 7.12 <SEP> 3.1
<tb> Tetrapelargonate <SEP> of <SEP> Pentaerythrityl <SEP> 16.82 <SEP> 1.4 <SEP> 6.32 <SEP> 4.4
<tb> Polyglyceryl-2-isostearate <SEP> 17.03 <SEP> 2.59 <SEP> 12.99 <SEP> 4.1
<tb> Polyglyceryl-2-diisostearate <SEP> 16.79 <SEP> 1.5 <SEP> 8.95 <SEP> 2.9
<tb> Di-isostearate <SEP> of <SEP> glyceryl <SEP> 16.61 <SEP> 1.29 <SEP> 7.16 <SEP> 4.1
<tb> Tri-mellitate <SEP> of <SEP> tri-iso-decylate <SEP> 17.43 <SEP> 1.37 <SEP> 5.8 <SEP> 4.3
<tb> Trimellitate <SEP> of <SEP> tri-ethyl-2-hexyl <SEP> 17.56 <SEP> 1.62 <SEP> 6.31 <SEP> 3.7
<tb> Trimellitate <SEP> Isofol <SEP> 12 <SEP> 17.34 <SEP> 1.19 <SEP> 5.4 <SEP> 4.7
<tb> Tri-octanoate <SEP> of <SEP> glyceryl <SEP> 16.35 <SEP> 1.78 <SEP> 6.64 <SEP> 4.9
<tb> 2-Butyloctanol <SEP> 16.12 <SEP> 2.26 <SEP> 9.52 <SEP> 4.2
<Tb>

<Desc / Clms Page number 7>

 Mixtures of the oils described above can be made with oils which are not alone in the solubility sphere of dextrin ester as defined above, provided that the mixture is homogeneous and the solubility parameters of the oil mixture. verify the relationship of the invention. It is within the abilities of those skilled in the art to determine the amounts of each oil to obtain a mixture of oils meeting the conditions of the invention.

As oils which do not satisfy Hansen's relations above, taken alone, mention may be made of: - volatile or non-volatile silicones, - oils of mineral origin such as petroleum jelly and paraffin oil, - oils of plant origin such as jojoba oil, sesame oil, rapeseed oil, shea butter oil, synthetic oils such as Purcellin oil, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-dodecyl benzoate and hydrogenated isoparaffin (6.8 moles of isobutylene), synthetic oils or esters of formula R 5 COOR 6 in which R5 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid having from 1 to 40 and better still from 7 to 19 carbon atoms and R6 represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 and better still 3 to 20 carbon atoms, with R5 + R6 # 10 such as for example purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononanoate isononyl ester, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols.

The liquid fatty phase preferably represents from 5 to 95% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 20 to 75%.

The liquid fatty phase may also contain other oils totally incompatible with the oils described above, ie not forming a mixture homogeneous with the eye and whose distance in the Hansen space is greater than 10 (There will then be no modification of the solubility parameters of the initially optimized mixture) chosen especially from silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatile or non-linear or cyclic, liquid at room temperature; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes,
2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; linear or branched fluorocarbons of synthetic or mineral origin, volatile or not, polyglycols.

Other ingredients
The composition of the invention may furthermore comprise any additional additive usually used in the field concerned, such as water, antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, lipophilic gelling agents or nonaqueous liquid compounds, gelling agents. aqueous phase, dispersants, cosmetic actives. These additives, with the exception of water which can represent from 0 to 70% and for example from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10% of the total weight of the composition, can be present in the composition at the rate of 0 , 0005 to 20% of the total weight of the composition and better from 0.001 to
10%.

<Desc / Clms Page number 8>

As a cosmetic active agent that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of vitamins A, E, C, B3, F, provitamins such as D-panthenol, soothing active agents such as a-bisabolol, aloe vera and allantoin. , plant extracts or essential oils, protective or restructuring agents such as ceramides, "freshness" active ingredients such as menthol and its derivatives, emollients (cocoa butter, dimethicone), moisturizers (PCA arginine), active ingredients anti-wrinkles, essential fatty acids, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged.

The applications of the compositions according to the invention are numerous and relate to all colored or non-colored cosmetic products and more particularly to lipsticks.

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a composition, colored or not, of skincare, in the form of a sunscreen or make-up removing composition or in the form of a hygienic composition. If it contains cosmetic active ingredients, it can then be used as a basis for care or non-therapeutic treatment for the skin such as the hands or face or for the lips (lip balms, protecting the lips from the cold and / or the sun and / or wind), artificial tanning product of the skin.

The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a colored make-up product of the skin, in particular the face, such as a blush, a foundation, a blush or an eyeshadow, a body make-up such as a semipermanent tattoo product or lip makeup such as a red or a lip gloss, possibly having care or non-therapeutic treatment properties, a make-up product for integuments such as, for example, a nail polish, a mascara, an eyeliner , a product for coloring or hair care.

 Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a lipstick or a lip gloss. Applying this lipstick leads to a bright, non-migrating and long-lasting deposit.

 The composition according to the present invention is preferably a lipstick and may further contain a pasty fatty substance or a wax. For the purposes of the invention, the term "pasty compound" means a compound having a melting point ranging from 25 to 60 [deg.] C., preferably from 30 to 45 [deg.] C. and / or a hardness of from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.005 to 0.4 MPa. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" is understood to mean a lipophilic fat compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature greater than 30 ° C. and up to at 200 ° C., a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixed.

 In general, the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the liquid fatty phase, additional fatty substances which may be chosen from fillers, waxes, oils, gums and / or pasty fatty substances. , hydrocarbon-based, silicone and / or fluorinated, of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

 According to one embodiment, the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition contains a pasty fatty substance and / or a wax.

<Desc / Clms Page number 9>

The waxes, in the sense of the application, may be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They are of natural origin, such as beeswax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber or sugar cane wax, ceresin, paraffin waxes, lignite, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, Montan wax, ozokerites, hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil or copolymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, esters of fatty acids and glycerides concretes at 45 C, silicone waxes such as alkyl, alkoxy and / or poly (di) methylsiloxane esters solid at 45 C, having from 10 to 45 carbon atoms, certain fatty acids such as acid stearic, myristic, or behenic, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention contains less than 50% by weight of waxes, more preferably less than 30%. According to one embodiment, the composition is free of waxes.

The nature and the quantity of pasty substances or waxes depend on the mechanical properties and textures sought. As an indication, the wax may represent from 0.01 to 50%, preferably from 2 to 40%, and better still from 5 to 30% of the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition contains an additional gelling or thickening system, which leads to a transparent or translucent phase.

For example, transparent waxes such as di- (trimethylol-1,1,1-propane) tetrastearate sold under the name HEST 2T-4S by the company HETERENE are chosen.

Furthermore, the composition may contain as additional gelling or thickening system leading to a transparent phase: - N, N-lauryl-L-glutamate of a, y-di-N-butylamide (LGBA) sold by the company Clariant and described in Zairyo Gijutsu, vo1.10, N 2, p 48-57 (1992), monodibenzylidene sorbitol as described in US Pat. No. 3,121,332; 1,2- and 1,3-cyclohexane derivatives carrying an amide function such as described in US 6,410,003.

 By "charge" is meant any colorless particle selected from inorganic or organic fillers, lamellar, spherical or oblong, chemically inert in the first composition and less than 500 nm in order to preserve the transparency of the composition.

 Talc, mica, silica, kaolin, laponite, polyamide powders such as nylon, poly-ss-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon), lauroyl-lysine may be mentioned. , starch, boron nitride, acrylic polymer particles, especially acrylic acid copolymer and silicone resin microbeads, precipitated calcium carbonate, dicalcium phosphate, carbonate and hydro-carbonate of magnesium, hydroxyapatite, and mixtures thereof. These fillers may or may not be treated on the surface, in particular to render them lipophilic.

 Preferably, the fillers represent from 0.1 to 35%, preferably from 0.5 to 25% and better still from 1 to 15% of the total weight of the first composition, if they are present.

 Physiologically acceptable means pleasant taste, touch, appearance and / or odor, applicable for several days for several months.

<Desc / Clms Page number 10>

 The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetics field.

The composition may advantageously contain a dyestuff which may be chosen from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments and nacres usually used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, and mixtures thereof. This dyestuff is generally present in a proportion of from 0.01 to 40% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 35% and better still from 5 to 25%.

Preferably, the coloring matter contains dyes and / or pigments and / or nacres in order to obtain a semi-covering or transparent makeup. The pigments also make it possible to reduce the sticky feel of the compositions, unlike soluble dyes.

The fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, 3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, Violet DC 2, Orange DC 5, yellow quinoline. They can represent from 0 to 20% of the weight of the compositions and better still from 0.1 to 6% (if present).

The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated.

Among the inorganic pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate of chrome and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The pigments may represent from 0 to 40%, preferably from 1 to 35%, and better still from 2 to 25% of the total weight of the composition.

The pearlescent pigments may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may represent from 0 to 20% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 15% (if present).

 The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field.

Forms of composition
The composition of the invention is advantageously self-supporting and can be in the form of stick or cup. It is in particular in the form of a rigid anhydrous gel transparent or translucent, and especially in the form of transparent or translucent anhydrous stick, the liquid fatty phase forming the continuous phase.

 The level of dextrin ester with a degree of substitution of less than 2 is chosen according to the hardness of the desired gel or stick and according to the particular application envisaged.

 The hardness can be measured by the so-called butter cutter method, which consists in cutting a stick of lipstick of 8.1 mm and measuring the hardness at 20 C, using a DFGHS 2 dynamometer of the Indelco-Chatillon company moving at a speed of 100 mm / minute. It is expressed as the shear force (expressed in grams) needed to cut a stick under these conditions. According to this method the hardness of a

<Desc / Clms Page number 11>

 The stick composition according to the invention ranges from 30 to 150 g, preferably from 30 to 120 and for example from 30 to 50 g.

This hardness is such that the composition is self-supporting and can disintegrate easily to form a satisfactory deposit on the skin and lips. In addition, with this hardness, the composition of the invention in cast form, in particular as a stick, withstands shocks.

According to the invention, the composition in the form of a stick has the behavior of a deformable and flexible elastic solid, giving the application a remarkable elastic softness. The stick compositions of the prior art do not have this property of elasticity and flexibility.

These sticks or sticks, when they are colored and in particular pigmented, allow, after application, to obtain a glossy deposit, homogeneous in color and not migrating in the wrinkles and fine lines of the skin, particularly surrounding the lips, but also the eyes.

According to one embodiment, the composition is in the form of a composition for care, cleaning, removing makeup or make-up of the skin, semimuqueuses, mucous membranes and / or integuments.

It can be in the form of paste, solid or cream. It may be an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, an anhydrous, solid or flexible gel, or in the form of a free or compacted powder and even in biphasic form. Preferably, it is in anhydrous form. By "anhydrous composition" is meant a composition, in which water is not added during the formulation, and comprising a fat continuous or external phase which represents up to 98% by weight of the composition, of preferably up to 99.5% by weight.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is in the form of a make-up composition such as a foundation, a blush, an eye shadow, a lipstick, a mascara, an eye-catcher or an eyeliner. liner; a care composition such as a care base for the lips, a care cream (day cream, night cream, anti-wrinkle cream, moisturizer), a cleansing cream or emulsion; a solar or self-tanning composition; hair composition such as a hair care cream, eyelashes and eyebrows.

 The subject of the invention is also the use of at least one dextrin and acid ester whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit and at least one dextrin and acid ester. whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, in a cosmetic composition containing a continuous liquid fatty phase, for thickening or gelling the composition and / or for increasing the brightness of the composition and / or for limit the exudation of the composition, and / or to limit the exudation of the composition, and / or to limit the migration of the composition, and / or to impart transparency to the composition.

 The invention further relates to the use of a sufficient amount of a mixture containing at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit and minus an ester of dextrin and of fatty acid whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, in a composition containing a liquid fatty phase and pigments, to improve the homogeneity of the deposition of the composition , in particular the homogeneity of its color.

 The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. Quantities are given as a percentage by mass.

<Desc / Clms Page number 12>

EXAMPLE 1 Potted Gloss Polydecene Octyldodecanol Tri-Decyl Trimellitate 33.5 Dextrin Palmitate (Rheopearl # TL) 7.5 Dextrin Palmitate (Rheopearl KL) 7.5 Preservatives qs 100 All the ingredients with stirring are mixed together. 90 C until a homogeneous mixture. The mixture is poured into cups and allowed to cool to room temperature.

This gloss has a transparent and glossy structure, easy to spread. It does not exude at 45 C for 2 months.

Example 2: 15% dextrin palmitate Rheopearl KL (degree of substitution 2.1 to 2.3) 15% dextrin palmitate Rheopearl TL (degree of substitution 1.5 to 1.7) 70% of triglyceride of caprylic acid / It is observed that this composition is in the form of a stick not exuding at 45 C for 2 months.

Comparative Example 3: 30% dextrin palmitate Rheopearl # KL (degree of substitution 2.1 to 2.3) 70% caprylic / capric acid triglyceride This composition is in the form of a stick which exudes when puts it under accelerated conditions of aging in an oven at 45 C for three months.

Claims (28)

 1. A composition containing a continuous liquid fatty phase, gelled or thickened with a sufficient amount of a mixture containing at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a unit glucose and at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, the liquid fatty phase and the dextrin esters forming a physiologically acceptable medium. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the ester of dextrin and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 corresponds to formula (I):

 in which: the radicals R1, R2 and R3, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 50, especially 8 to 30, or even 12 to 22 and more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of said radicals R 1, R2 or R3 is different from hydrogen; n is an integer of 3 to 150, especially 10 to 100, and preferably 15 to 40. 3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the ester of dextrin and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 corresponds to formula (II):

 in which: the radicals R1, R2 and R3 represent hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 50, in particular 8 to 30, even 12-22 and better 12-18 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said radicals R1, R2 or R3 is different from hydrogen, n is an integer between 3 and 150, especially 10 and 100, and preferably 15-40. <Desc / Clms Page number 14>  in which: the radicals R'1, R'2 and R'3, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group (R'-CO-) in which the radical R 'is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 50, in particular 8 to 30, even 12-22 and better 12 to 18 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said radicals R'1, R'2 or R ' 3 is different from hydrogen, n is an integer from 3 to 150, especially 10 to 100, and preferably 15 to 40.

 4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ester of dextrin and fatty acid with a degree of substitution greater than 2 corresponds to formula (III): 5. Composition according to one of Claims 2 to 4, characterized in that R-CO- or R'CO- is chosen from caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachic, behenic, isobutyric and isovaleric radicals. , 2-ethylbutyric, ethylmethylacetic, isoheptanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, isononanoic, isodecanoic, isotridecanoic, isomyristic, isopalmitic, isostearic, isoaracic, isohexanoic, decenoic, dodecenoic, tetradecenoic, myristoleic, hexadecenoic, palmitoleic, oleic, elaidic, asclepine, gondoleic , eicosenoic, sorbic, linoleic, linolenic, punicic, stearidonic, arachidonic, stearolic, and mixtures thereof. 6. Composition according to one of claims 2 to 5, characterized in that the radical R or R 'is linear. 7. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that R-CO- or R'-CO- is the palmitic radical. 8. Composition according to one of claims 2 to 7, characterized in that n = 20 to 30. 9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the molecular weight of the dextrin ester and fatty acid degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, is between 10 000 and 30,000, preferably between 15,000 and 20,000.  10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the degree of substitution of the dextrin ester and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, is less at 1.9, preferably less than 1.8, more preferably between 1.5 and 1.7.  11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dextrin ester whose degree of substitution is greater than 2, has a degree of substitution of between 2.1 and 2.3. <Desc / Clms Page number 15>  12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ester of dextrin and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit is present in the composition according to the invention. in an amount of 1 to 50%, preferably 2 to 25%, preferably 5 to 25%, preferably 10 to 25% by weight of the total weight of the composition.  13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mixture of dextrin esters is present in an amount of less than 50%, preferably 5 to 40%, preferably 5 to 25%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.  14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ester of dextrin and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 and the ester of dextrin and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 are in relative proportions by weight ranging from 1/10 to 2/1, preferably from 1/2 to 1/1.  15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase contains an oil or a mixture of oils which has solubility parameters 5d, #p and #h verifying the following conditions: [4 (5d - of) 2 + (# p- #pe) 2 + (# h- #he) 2] 1/2 # 10 5de, 5pe and 5he being the solubility parameters of one of the dextrin esters.  16. Composition according to claim 15, characterized in that [4 (# d- de) 2 + (5p- #pe) 2 + (5h- #he) 2] 1/2 # 8.  17. Composition according to claim 15, characterized in that [4 (# d- de) 2 + (5p- #pe) 2 + (5h- #he) 2] 1/2 # 5.  18. Composition according to one of Claims 15 to 17, characterized in that the values of the Hansen solubility parameters of the dextrin ester and of the fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 are in particular such that 17 # Of # 19, 1 # #pe # 2 and 9 # #he # 11.  19. Composition according to one of claims 15 to 18, characterized in that the oil is chosen from triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, hydroxylated triglycerides, synthetic alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, esters of C4-22 fatty acids, in particular castor oil, esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 carbon atoms, especially tridecyl trimellitate, and mixtures thereof .  20. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a transparent gelling or thickening system selected from di- (trimethylol-1,1,1-propane) tetrastearate; α, γ-di-N-butylamide N-lauryl-L-glutamate, monodibenzylidene sorbitol and 1,2-and 1,3-cyclohexane derivatives carrying an amide function.  21. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is free of waxes.  22. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is anhydrous. <Desc / Clms Page number 16>  23. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in solid or semi-solid form. 24. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a rigid gel, in particular stick. 25. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of mascara, eye contour pencil, foundation, lipstick, deodorant or makeup remover product, body makeup, eyeshadow or cheek, anti-ring product, shampoo, conditioner, sunscreen composition, facial and body care product. 26. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a stick of lipstick, lip balm or lip gloss. 27. Use of a sufficient quantity of a mixture containing at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit and at least one dextrin and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, in a composition containing a liquid fatty phase, to increase the brightness of the composition, and / or to limit the exudation of the composition, and / or to confer transparency of the composition, and / or to gel or thicken said fatty phase of the composition. 28. Use of a sufficient amount of a mixture containing at least one dextrin and fatty acid ester having a degree of substitution of less than 2 based on a glucose unit and at least one dextrin and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, in a composition containing a liquid fatty phase and pigments, to improve the homogeneity of the deposition of the composition, in particular the homogeneity of the his color.