FR2753374A1 - Skin care composition contains peroxidised fatty substance e.g. unsaturated vegetable oils and plant extract - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprises at least one peroxidised fatty substance (I) and 1-20 % of at least one active vegetable substance (II). (I) is preferably selected from fats which have been exposed to X-ray, psi -ray or beta -ray radiation at least during the initiation phase of peroxidation, and which contain less than 50 ppm MDA or malmaldehyde. (I) are oils (preferably unsaturated vegetable oils e.g. olive oil, groundnut oil, sesame oil, maize oil and sunflower oil, almond oil and oils containing polyunsaturated fatty acids e.g. evening primrose oil, borage oil, blackcurrant oil, wheatgerm oil and fish oils). (I) has an index of peroxidation of 70-130. (II) is selected from e.g. dry, soft, fluid or liquid extracts obtained by maceration, digestion, decoction, infusion, leaching, pressing and biotechnical processing. (II) is saponin from horse chestnut (softener), extract of harpagophytum of meadowsweet or of chrysantellum (antiinflammatories), extract of marigold, arnica, meadowsweet, blackcurrant, phytohormones from peas or hops (healing promoters), saponins from lesser celandine (detergent), mucilage from mallow, fucus, fresh linden, marsh mallow or fresh violets (film formers), extract of witch hazel (astringent), cereal hydrolysates (nutrient), phytohormones and extracts of buds and shoots (regenerative agents), plant ceramides (restorative agents) and extracts of burdock, eucalyptus, sage and red bearberry (antiseptics). (II) is used e.g. in conjunction with an essential oil. The cosmetic composition may be in the form of an oil, an emulsion, a dispersion or a cream.

Description

 The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one active plant extract associated with peroxidized vegetable oils intended to preserve and improve the condition of the skin.

 Historically, humans have extracted active ingredients from plants to nourish themselves, enhance their beauty and heal themselves.

 Furthermore, the applications for the skin of products comprising peroxidized fatty substances have been known for a long time. In the 1950s, Professor BARANGER, taking up millennial traditions, confirmed these and described the interest of peroxidized oils, he regulated their production, and found many applications useful for the skin. He imagined possibilities of heavier applications in the medical field.

 The invention consists in combining in the same cosmetic composition the respective properties of peroxidized fatty substances and plant active ingredients in an amount between 1 and 20%.

 It has been observed, in most cases, that for the skin area, the effect obtained is surprising since it is significantly greater than that expected consisting of the addition of the effects of the two components applied independently.

 This potentiating or synergistic property of this combination could be explained by a decrease in inflammation and simultaneously by an increase in subcutaneous blood flow by the effect of the peroxidized fatty substance, thus allowing a stronger and faster action of vegetable drugs.

In the inflammatory process, arachidonic acid, constituting cell membranes, undergoes peroxidation through Ciclooxygenases and
Lipoxygenases. There is then the formation of prostaglandins and leukotrienes, derivatives which will act at the level of the receptors of the neutrophils and macrophages by stimulating them and thus promoting the inflammatory reaction.

 The hyperoxygenated oil (rich in C18 and C20) acts by structural analogy with derivatives of arachidonic acid. These peroxygenated triglycerides replace Prostaglandins and Leukotrienes at their receptors, on macrophages and polynuclear thus blocking the inflammatory process.

 There is also an inhibitory power on the production of Thromboxanes and therefore an increase in the release of Prostaglandin PGI2 in permanent equilibrium with Thromboxane A2. This prostaglandin has a powerful vasodilator power which is then used to the level of microcirculation.

 This vasodilation of the dermal blood vessels has the effect on the one hand of activating the basal base formed by keratinocytes of the epidermis causing an increase in the cellular renewal of the epidermis, and a more rapid assimilation of the active or drug vegetable thus promoting its kinetics of action and allowing it to also respond to the increased metabolism of cells stimulated through peroxygenated oil.

 In an embodiment of the combination according to the invention, the peroxidized fatty substance (s) are chosen from the group of those which, subjected to x, gamma and beta radiation, during at least the initiation phase of the reaction, comprise a MDA or malmaldehyde level less than 50 ppm. The fatty substances used are more particularly oils. These oils are mostly vegetable. These are generally bodies chosen from the group of ethylenic fatty substances from olive oil, peanut, sesame, corn, sunflower, to which sweet almond oil is added, as well as oils containing polyunsaturated fatty acids such as evening primrose, borage, blackcurrant and wheat germ oils, as well as animal oils such as those obtained from fish or equivalent oils. The peroxidation index of the group of fatty substances used is between 70 and 130.

 Depending on the needs of the formulation, the amount in the composition of peroxidized fatty substances will be between 1% and 30% of the weight of the finished formula.

 The plant active ingredients used in combination in the composition are dry, soft, fluid or liquid extracts resulting from processes such as maceration, digestion, decoction, infusion, leaching, pressing, and by bio-technologies.

 The plant species chosen for the invention comprises the group of softening, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, astringent, calming, healing, coloring, bleaching, detergent, film-forming, nutritious, regenerating, reconstituting, toning and absorbing plants.

 The active softening plant extract is horse chestnut saponin.

 The anti-inflammatory plant active ingredient is extract of Ulmaire harpagophytum or chrysantellum, at doses of 2 to 5%.

 The healing plant active is an extract from the group of plants including marigold, arnica, meadowsweet, blackcurrant seed oil, plant phytohormones from peas or hops.

The detergent plant extract is saponin from the
Ficaire.

 The film-forming plant extract is taken from the mucilages of mauve, fucus or fresh lime, marshmallow, fresh violets.

 The astringent plant extract is witch hazel.

 The nutritious plant extract is chosen from the group of cereal hydrolysates.

 The regenerating plant extract is chosen from the group of plant phytohormones and bud extracts.

 The reconstituting plant extract is chosen from the group of plant ceramides.

The plant antiseptic extract comes from plants of the group comprising burdock, eucalyptus, sage and
Compass from 2 to 5%. In the formula we add essential oils from 0.1 to 0.5%.

 Among the other associations that can be implemented, and as plant active agents, plant essences are of interest, as are APGIs or polyunsaturated fatty acids.

 The cosmetic composition can be in the form of an oil or an emulsion or a dispersion.

 Clinical studies have shown the surprising nature and therefore the interest of the invention.

A cell renewal study using the DHA method (dihydroxyacetone, a protein staining marker) was carried out on three groups of six subjects of both sexes. The renewal of the epidermis was observed by comparing 4 emulsions
The first containing only the excipients;
The second containing 5% peroxygenated oil alone (corn oil);
The third containing the plant active ingredient alone (3% of a liquid soy hydrolyzate at 10 grams per liter and 3% of a liquid beech bud extract at 1 gram per liter); and
The fourth contains the combination according to the invention, namely of the order of 5% of peroxidized corn oil, of the order of 3% of a liquid soy hydrolyzate at approximately 10 grams per liter and an extract of liquid beech buds at around 1 gram per liter.

 A twice-daily application of a different emulsion on each arm is carried out by the volunteers by distributing the emulsions so that each is compared to another in the same patient.

 After 15 days, the volunteers' forearms are tinted brown with an ointment containing 10% DHA.

 The application of the various emulsions is continued for 15 days and measurements are taken on each forearm, every 2 days by chromametry, of the decrease in skin color. This decrease is a function of cell renewal.

 Under the conditions of the study, the emulsion according to the invention containing the peroxidized oil and plant active association showed cell renewal increased by 13 and 17% respectively compared to the emulsion containing the oil and compared to that containing the plant active ingredient and 23% compared to the simple emulsion containing only the excipients. From this the measurements of the increase in circulatory flow are deduced.

 Another study, is carried out as indicated above, with four different emulsions, and on twenty patients in order to measure the microcirculatory flow. This measurement was carried out using the DOPPLER effect.

 The measurement was performed before and after the application of the four types of emulsion on four locations located at the level of the trochanters. Each location was used to apply an emulsion.

The second measurement is carried out 15 minutes after the application of the emulsions. These measurements made it possible to note a marked improvement in the circulatory flow compared to the zone having received the simple emulsion.

The increase is 22% for the emulsion containing both the oil and the active ingredient, 15% for the emulsion containing the oil and 9% for the emulsion containing the active ingredient.

 A third measurement 24 hours after the application of each preparation, shows a persistence of a circulatory flow increased by a proportion of 18% compared to the control measurement, with the association of peroxygenated oil / plant active.

Let us cite examples of implementation of the invention.

Example 1: Formulation of an ointment to calm rheumatism, comprising per 100 grams - Peroxidized peanut oil 10 grams - Hydroglycolic ulmaire extract 5 grams - Essences 0.5 gram - Mixed polyglycol stearate 8 grams - Polyoxyethylenated oil 3 grams - Stearic palmito acid 2 grams - Crosslinked acrylic acid 0.4 gram - Triethanolamine 0.6 gram - Water and QS preservatives 70.5 grams
Example 2: Formulation of a cream and clinical trials.

This composition combines a fatty substance and two plant extracts - 5% peroxidized corn oil - 3% of a liquid soy hydrolyzate at 10 grams per liter - 3% of a liquid beech bud extract at 1 g per liter
Usual excipients, perfumes, preservatives and water in usual quantities.

 This cream has been tested in order to evaluate in parallel - Improvement of skin dryness, and - Reduction of redness of support.

Improvement of skin dryness
In 60% of cases, the application was deemed satisfactory and the skin became smooth and firm again.

 In 30% of cases, the application was satisfactory.

 In 8% of cases, it was rated as moderately satisfactory.

 Finally, in 2% of cases, it did not bring any significant effects.

Reduction of rollers
In 95% of cases of patients with redness of the skin, a very marked reduction in redness was observed and disappearance when continued use in 4 to 5 days.

 For some patients a stationary state has been observed.

 It was found in one case that a patient who had had redness for 10 days had seen it disappear completely within a week of treatment.

 Very good results have been observed on irritations in the inguinal folds.

 Such a cream can be applied to the epidermis weakened by various stresses of an external chemical, radiation (sun, burn), or mechanical nature.

Example 3: Formulation of an antiseptic gel.

To the usual excipients is added - 10% peroxidized sunflower oil.

- 2% bearberry extract - 1% sage extract - a mixture of lavender and lemon essential oils for 0.2% each.

 This gel was tested by the method of dilutions in agar medium on the strains of the Pasteur Institute and it was possible to show a bacteriostatic efficacy.

Example 4: Making an anti-blow massage cream for athletes.

The formulation is analogous to that of Example 1, the plant active agents introduced being the following - Arnica 3% - Lavender essential oil 0.1% - Orange essential oil 0.1% - Camphor essential oil 0.05 %
This formula has been tested in sports.

Example 5: Activity on burns.

With the formulation of Example 2 taking as a drug
Vegetable 1% extract of chrysantellum powder, burn tests have been carried out on patients undergoing radiotherapy treatment and presenting significant tissue damage due to radiation.

The application was made immediately after each intense radiotherapy session and three applications were made daily between sessions.

There has been a marked improvement in tissue restructuring between sessions and the disappearance of skin lesions within 14 days of stopping treatment, whereas this restructuring requires approximately 25 to 30 days without specific treatment.

Claim 6: Healing time shortening test.

 With the formula of example 2 (or 5).

 This trial was carried out in a burn unit and involved 10 patients with 20 graft sampling sites (2 graft sites per patient).

 In the same patient, one of the sites received treatment with fatty dressings, the other receiving the formulated emulsion. The two sampling sites being identical in depth and on the surface, the comparison is objective.

 There was an average healing time for oily dressings of around 11 days, while it was only 7 days for preparation. We therefore observe a shortening of the healing time by 36%.

Example 7: Regenerating composition, with a formula analogous to that of Example 2, but using plant phytohormones extracted from peas or hops as plant active ingredient, at a rate of 1 per thousand.

This formulation is also an alternative for burns, scarring. It is also suitable in cosmetics to regenerate tissues.

Claims (22)

 1 / Cosmetic composition comprising at least one peroxidized fatty substance, characterized in that it also comprises at least one vegetable active ingredient in an amount between 1 and 20%.  2 / cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that a peroxidized fatty substance is chosen from the group of those subjected to x, gamma and beta radiation, during at least the initiation phase of the reaction comprising a rate of MDA or malmaldehyde less than 50 ppm.  3 / cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that a plant active ingredient is taken in dry, soft, fluid or liquid extracts resulting from processes such as maceration, digestion, decoction, infusion, leaching, pressing and biotechnologies.  4 / cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that a plant active ingredient is obtained from a plant chosen from the group comprising softening, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, astringent, calming, healing plants, coloring, bleaching, film-forming detergents, nutritious, regenerating, restoring, tonic and absorbent.  5 / cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 3 and 4, characterized in that the softening plant extract is a horse chestnut saponin.  6 / cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 3 and 4 characterized in that the plant active and an anti-inflammatory extracted from the harpagophytum of ulmar or chrysantellum.  7 / cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 3 and 4, characterized in that the plant active is a healing is extracted from the group of plants comprising marigolds, arnica, meadowsweet, black currant, plant phytohormones from peas or hops.  8 / cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 3 and 4, characterized in that the plant extract is a detergent comprising saponins from the streak.  9 / cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 3 and 4, characterized. by the fact that the plant extract is film-forming and taken from mucilages of mauve, fucus or fresh lime, marshmallow, fresh violets.  10 / cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 3 and 4, characterized in that the plant extract is astringent and extracted from witch hazel.  11 / Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 3 and 4, characterized in that the plant extract is nutritious and chosen from the group of cereal hydrolysates.  12 / Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 3 and 4, characterized in that the plant extract is regenerating and chosen from the group of plant phytohormones and extracts of buds.  13 / cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 3 and 4, characterized in that the plant extract is reconstituting and selected from the group of plant ceramides.  14 / Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 3 and 4, characterized in that the plant extract is antiseptic and comes from plants of the group comprising burdock, eucalyptus, sage and bearberry.  15 / cosmetic composition according to claim 14, characterized in that at the plants of said group is added at least one essential oil.  16 / cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that it is in the form of oil or emulsion or dispersion.  17 / Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, in the form of a cream characterized in that it comprises from 1% to 30% of peroxidized fatty substance.  18 / cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that the fatty substances are oils.  19 / cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that the fatty substances are vegetable oils.  20 / Cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 19, characterized in that the fatty substances are chosen from the group of ethylene fatty substances from olive oil, peanut, sesame, corn, sunflower; sweet almond oil; oils containing polyunsaturated fatty acids such as evening primrose, borage, blackcurrant and wheat germ oils; and animal oils like those from fish.  21 / Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20, characterized in that the peroxidation index of fatty substances is between 70 and 130.  22 / cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21, in the form of a cream, characterized in that it comprises of the order of 5% of peroxidized corn oil, of the order of 3% of a liquid soy hydrolyzate at approximately 10 grams per liter and an extract of liquid beech buds at approximately 1 gram per liter.