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EP3556921B1 - Machine à tricoter rectiligne et procédé de fabrication d'un tricot à motifs filigranes - Google Patents

Machine à tricoter rectiligne et procédé de fabrication d'un tricot à motifs filigranes Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3556921B1
EP3556921B1 EP18167511.7A EP18167511A EP3556921B1 EP 3556921 B1 EP3556921 B1 EP 3556921B1 EP 18167511 A EP18167511 A EP 18167511A EP 3556921 B1 EP3556921 B1 EP 3556921B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
thread
needles
filigree
pattern
knitting machine
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP18167511.7A
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German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP3556921A1 (fr
Inventor
Stefan Mayer
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Karl Mayer Stoll R&D GmbH
Original Assignee
Karl Mayer Stoll R&D GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Karl Mayer Stoll R&D GmbH filed Critical Karl Mayer Stoll R&D GmbH
Priority to EP18167511.7A priority Critical patent/EP3556921B1/fr
Priority to CN201910303700.0A priority patent/CN110387636B/zh
Publication of EP3556921A1 publication Critical patent/EP3556921A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3556921B1 publication Critical patent/EP3556921B1/fr
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/104—Openwork fabric, e.g. pelerine fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D04B1/126—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with colour pattern, e.g. intarsia fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B15/00—Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, weft knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
    • D04B15/32—Cam systems or assemblies for operating knitting instruments
    • D04B15/36—Cam systems or assemblies for operating knitting instruments for flat-bed knitting machines
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B7/00—Flat-bed knitting machines with independently-movable needles
    • D04B7/24—Flat-bed knitting machines with independently-movable needles for producing patterned fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B7/00—Flat-bed knitting machines with independently-movable needles
    • D04B7/24—Flat-bed knitting machines with independently-movable needles for producing patterned fabrics
    • D04B7/26—Flat-bed knitting machines with independently-movable needles for producing patterned fabrics with colour patterns

Definitions

  • the EP 2 025 785 A1 relates to a flat knitting machine to enable a warp thread insert in certain knitted fabric areas with a warp thread bar, whereby the edge needles of areas in which a warp thread is to be inserted are withdrawn earlier than the needles in between, so that a flatter angle of the warp thread between the edge needles results, what the Warp thread insert into the needles in between facilitated.
  • the JP 52-8215 describes a lock for a hand knitting machine for the production of a filigree knit.
  • the different threads are fed by thread guides arranged one above the other.
  • the needles of the front needle bed receive the binding and the pattern thread while the needles of the rear needle bed only receive the binding thread.
  • the needles of the two needle beds are driven out to different extents.
  • the present invention is based on the object of developing a flat knitting machine in such a way that it is also possible to produce filigree knits with only one knitting lock.
  • the object is achieved by a flat knitting machine with the features of claim 1.
  • the knitting cam By providing two spatially spaced selection points in the knitting cam and providing different withdrawal curves for the selected first and second needles, it is possible to guide the first and second needles into different withdrawal curves. Which of the withdrawal curves is selected determines whether both a binding thread and a pattern thread or just a binding thread can be inserted into a needle.
  • the binding threads and pattern threads are fed from different thread guides, which are arranged one after the other and thus also insert a thread into the needles at different points on the knitting lock. It is thus possible to produce a filigree knitted fabric or another knitted fabric such as a lining knitted fabric or a knitted fabric with a plating pattern with a single knitting lock. A breakthrough pattern or filigree knit results when the binding thread is much thinner than the pattern thread.
  • the filigree knitting lock can preferably have an adjustable lock part with which the first needles in the first withdrawal curve and the second needles can be guided into the second withdrawal curve.
  • the adjustable lock part can preferably be a handle lock part. With such a cam part it is possible to push the needles into the knitting cam at different depths, so that a needle butt provided on the needle can be inserted into different cam curves that are located at different depths of the cam.
  • the first withdrawal curve can hold the first needles longer at a thread insert height than those in the second withdrawal curve guided second needles.
  • both the thread guide with the at least one binding thread and the trailing thread guide with the at least one pattern thread can insert a thread into the first needles.
  • the second needles on the other hand, can be withdrawn before reaching the thread guide with the pattern thread or threads.
  • a limit lock part is provided and the first trigger curve runs above the limit lock part and the second trigger curve runs below the limit lock part.
  • the limiting lock part thus forms both a limitation of the first withdrawal curve and a limitation of the second withdrawal curve.
  • the first and second withdrawal curve can also run identically in sections. During the retraction movement from the maximum ejection position to the thread insert height, no separation of the two withdrawal curves is necessary. The complete retraction of the needle to knock off the old stitches can also be done in the same way for the first and second needles. The two withdrawal curves can therefore also overlap in this section.
  • the variety of fabricable patterns of the knitted fabric can be further increased in that more than two thread guides can be provided for feeding the at least one binding thread and the at least one pattern thread. By holding the needles at the thread insertion level for a correspondingly longer period, more than two threads can thus also be inserted into the selected first needles.
  • the thread guides can be thread guides driven by a slide of the flat knitting machine and / or independently driven thread guides.
  • the invention also relates to a method for producing a knitted fabric, in particular a filigree knitted fabric, on a flat knitting machine with the features of claim 10.
  • a needle can either form a stitch with at least one binding thread and one pattern thread, or only with at least one binding thread.
  • breakthrough patterns can be generated if the binding thread is significantly thinner than the pattern thread.
  • Tying and pattern threads can also differ in material and color. However, it is of course also possible to use the same thread sizes and the same materials for the two thread types. In this way, in addition to knitted fabrics, knitted fabrics with plating patterns or knitted lining fabrics can also be produced.
  • the patterns produced by the method can extend over the entire width of a row of stitches or only over part of it. In this way, intarsia patterns can also be created in the knitted fabric. The use of intarsia thread guides is not necessary.
  • Intermediate slides are used to expel the needles, the intermediate slides being brought into a first position at the first selection point if first needles are to be selected for making stitches from binding and pattern threads, and are brought into a second position at the second selection point, if second Needles for making stitches should only be selected with the binding thread.
  • the needle selection is controlled via intermediate slides, for which one or more cam locks can also be provided.
  • the first needles selected at the first selection point can be pushed out of the knitting system by half a needle foot height and thereby guided into the first withdrawal curve.
  • the second position of the intermediate slide there is no pressurization of the needles by the handle cam, the feet of which can thereby be guided into a lower-lying second trigger curve.
  • first and second needles can be driven out in a manner known per se to such an extent that stitches already in the needles slide behind an open needle tongue of the needles. Subsequently, binding and / or pattern threads can be inserted into the open and empty needle hook.
  • the first and second needles can then be withdrawn to such an extent that the stitches previously formed by these needles are knocked off.
  • Fig. 1 illustrates the production of a row of stitches of a knitted piece 11, which is knitted using a filigree technique according to a method according to the invention.
  • the row of stitches in filigree technique is followed by a row of stitches of a basic knit G.
  • the basic knitted fabric can consist of a smooth knitted fabric, rib knitted fabric or other knitted fabric.
  • the area to be knitted using the filigree technique can be placed at any point on the knitted fabric 11.
  • Fig. 1 only one row of stitches of the basic knit G and one row of stitches of the filigree area are shown.
  • the subsequent courses of stitches in the filigree area are produced in a similar way to the course shown.
  • the section shown consists of seven stitches 1-7, of which stitches 1, 2, 4, 6 and 7 consist of both a binding thread B and a pattern thread M.
  • the stitches 3 and 5 consist only of the binding thread B.
  • the pattern thread M runs as a float thread over the legs of these stitches 3 and 5.
  • the filigree knitting lock 100 shown is part of a knitting lock of a flat knitting machine according to the invention, not shown, which has been modified for the production of knitted pieces using filigree technology.
  • the filigree knitting lock 100 differs from a conventional knitting lock by modifications to a knitting drive part 10, a rope limiting part 20 and a handle lock part 30. These modifications mean that the stitch transfer, stitch transfer and catching functions can no longer be carried out with this knitting lock 100. For these functions, another cam lock on the flat knitting machine must be used.
  • the knitting lock 100 has two selection points A1 and A2 arranged one after the other, which are only indicated symbolically here.
  • two thread guides FB and FM arranged one behind the other in the knitting direction SR, are provided for supplying at least one binding thread B and one pattern thread M.
  • the supply of the binding thread B therefore takes place at an earlier point in time than the supply of the pattern thread M.
  • FIGS Figures 2a and 2b only lock curves for needles SN1, SN2 involved in the knitting processes and of intermediate slides SZ for needle selection are shown.
  • Fig. 2a illustrates a knitting process in which both threads B and M are inserted into the hooks of the needles SN1 selected for this purpose.
  • first needles SN1 are activated at the selection point A1 by means of intermediate slides, which run into the knitting lock 100 and are driven out with the knitting drive-out part 10 at mesh height.
  • the intermediate slides SZ have been moved to position 2 for this purpose.
  • the stitches in the hooks of the first needles SN1 are behind the open needle tongue.
  • the first needles SN1 are then withdrawn on a first withdrawal curve K1 up to a first insertion position EB, and in this position a binding thread B supplied by the thread guide FB into the hooks of the first
  • Needles SN1 inserted.
  • the actuating feet, not shown here, of the first needles SN1 are then pushed out of the system 100 by half the foot height by the intermediate slide SZ and a modified handle lock part 30.
  • the feet of the first needle SN1 get into a first cam cam in which they are held in the thread insertion position until an insertion position EM is reached.
  • a pattern thread M is additionally inserted into the hooks of the first needles SN1 by the thread guide FM.
  • the first needles SN 1 are pulled off the pull-off part 40 located downstream in the knitting direction SR, with the old stitches of the needles SN1 located behind the needle tongue being knocked off.
  • FIG 2b describes how stitches are made with binding thread B only.
  • the needles SN2 used for this purpose are selected at the selection point A2 by means of intermediate slides SZ, the intermediate slides SZ being set to a position 1 and thus taking a lock curve below the pusher part 30 through the knitting lock 100.
  • the second selected at selection point A2 Needles SN2 are driven out to stitch height by means of the knitting drive-out part 10, so that the stitches in their hooks slide behind the opened needle tongue.
  • the second needles SN2 retract, they also reach the thread insertion position EB, in which the thread guide FB inserts a binding thread B into the hooks of the second needles SN2.
  • the needles SN2 are immediately withdrawn further on a second withdrawal curve K2 running below the knitting delimitation part 20, so that the thread guide FM cannot insert a pattern thread M into its hooks.
  • the second needles SN2 on the take-off part 40 are also withdrawn to the desired countertop depth, thereby knocking off the old stitches on the second needles SN2.
  • Figures 3a-3c show various knitted fabrics which can be produced with a flat knitting machine according to the invention and a method according to the invention.
  • the binding thread is knitted in over the entire row of stitches, while the pattern thread can only be inserted over parts of the row of stitches, such as the knitted fabric 12 in FIG Fig. 3a made clear.
  • the pattern thread which appears lighter, is inserted into a round area in every second needle. In the intervening needles and outside the round area, however, only the binding thread knits, which is identical to the thread of the basic knit.
  • FIG. 3b a knitted piece 13 is shown in which a pattern thread has been inserted over the entire knitted piece 13 into every second needle.
  • the pattern thread was floated over one or two needles at certain intervals, ie no pattern thread was inserted into this needle / s. This results in the two strip-shaped pattern areas.
  • Figure 3c a knitted piece 14 is shown in which the pattern thread was also inserted over the entire course, but by varying the spacing of the needles per course in which the pattern thread is not knitted, the different effects of the areas 110-140 are achieved.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Claims (14)

  1. Métier à tricoter rectiligne comportant au moins une came de tricotage, laquelle comporte au moins une came de tricotage en filigrane (100) à système unique destinée à la fabrication des tissus tricotés (11-14) formés par au moins un fil de liage (B) et au moins un fil de motif (M), en particulier des tissus tricotés en filigrane, dans lequel l'au moins un fil de liage (B) et l'au moins un fil de motif (M) peuvent être introduits par des guide-fils (FB, FM) séparés disposés l'un après l'autre dans le sens de tricotage (SR), caractérisé en ce que la came de tricotage en filigrane (100) comporte deux points de sélection (A1, A2) disposés l'un après l'autre dans le sens de tricotage, dans lequel des coulisseaux intermédiaires (SZ) sont amenés dans une première position (2) au niveau du premier point de sélection (A1) lorsque des premières aiguilles (SN1) destinées à la formation des mailles avec l'au moins un fil de liage (B) et l'au moins un fil de motif (M) doivent être sélectionnées, et sont amenés dans une seconde position (1) au niveau du second point de sélection (A2) lorsque des secondes aiguilles (SN2) destinées à la formation des mailles seulement avec l'au moins un fil de liage (B) doivent être sélectionnées, et en ce que la came de tricotage en filigrane (100) est pourvue de deux courbures de retrait (K1, K2) différentes pour les premières et secondes aiguilles (SN1, SN2), dans lequel la première courbure de retrait (K1) retire les premières aiguilles (SN1) dans une première et dans une seconde position d'insertion de fil (EB, EM) et la seconde courbure de retrait (K2) retire les secondes aiguilles (SN2) seulement dans la première position d'insertion de fil (EB).
  2. Métier à tricoter rectiligne selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que la came de tricotage en filigrane (100) comporte une partie de came (30) réglable avec laquelle les premières aiguilles (SN1) peuvent être guidées dans la première courbure de retrait (K1) et les secondes aiguilles (SN2) peuvent être guidées dans la seconde courbure de retrait (K2).
  3. Métier à tricoter rectiligne selon la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que la partie de came (30) réglable est une partie de came de poussoir.
  4. Métier à tricoter rectiligne selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la première courbure de retrait (K1) maintient les premières aiguilles (SN1) plus longtemps à une hauteur d'insertion de fil que les secondes aiguilles (SN2) guidées dans la seconde courbure de retrait (K2).
  5. Métier à tricoter rectiligne selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'une partie de came de limitation (20) est prévue et la première courbure de retrait (K1) s'étend au-dessus de la partie de came de limitation (20) et la seconde courbure de retrait (K2) s'étend en dessous de la partie de came de limitation (20).
  6. Métier à tricoter rectiligne selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la première et la seconde courbure de retrait (K1, K2) sont identiques dans certaines zones.
  7. Métier à tricoter rectiligne selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que plus de deux guide-fils (FB, FM) sont destinés à l'introduction de l'au moins un fil de liage (B) et de l'au moins un fil de motif (M).
  8. Métier à tricoter rectiligne selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que les guide-fils (FB, FM) sont des guide-fils entraînés par un chariot du métier à tricoter rectiligne et/ou des guide-fils entraînés de manière autonome.
  9. Métier à tricoter rectiligne selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'il comporte plusieurs cames de tricotage en filigrane (100).
  10. Procédé de fabrication d'un tissu tricoté, en particulier d'un tissu tricoté en filigrane, sur un métier à tricoter rectiligne comportant au moins une came de tricotage, laquelle comporte au moins une came de tricotage en filigrane (100) à système unique destinée à la fabrication des tissus tricotés (11-14) formés par au moins un fil de liage (B) et au moins un fil de motif (M), dans lequel l'au moins un fil de liage (B) et l'au moins un fil de motif (M) sont introduits par des guide-fils (FB, FM) séparés disposés l'un après l'autre dans le sens de tricotage (SR), dans lequel, pour former des mailles avec l'au moins un fil de liage (B) et l'au moins un fil de motif (M), des premières aiguilles (SN1) étant sélectionnées et extraites par des coulisseaux intermédiaires (SZ) amenés dans une première position (2) au niveau d'un premier point de sélection (A1) de la came de tricotage en filigrane (100), et les premières aiguilles (SN1) sont ensuite retirées d'une première courbure de retrait (K1) jusqu'à une hauteur d'insertion de fil à laquelle elles ne sont maintenues que jusqu'à ce que d'abord le fil de liage (B), par un premier guide-fil (FB), puis le fil de motif (M), par un second guide-fil (FM), puissent être insérés dans leurs crochets d'aiguille, avant que les premières aiguilles (SN1) ne soient complètement retirées, et que, pour former de mailles seulement avec l'au moins un fil de liage (B), des secondes aiguilles (SN2) sont sélectionnées et extraites au moyen d'un coulisseau intermédiaire (SZ) amené dans une seconde position (1) à un second point de sélection (A2), placé en aval du premier point de sélection, de la même came de tricotage en filigrane (100), lesdites secondes aiguilles sont ensuite retirées d'une seconde courbure de retrait (K2) jusqu'à une hauteur d'insertion de fil à laquelle elles ne sont maintenues que jusqu'à ce qu'au moins le fil de liage (B) puisse être inséré dans son crochet d'aiguille par le premier guide-fil (FB), puis ensuite retirées avant qu'elles n'atteignent le second guide-fil (FM) avec le fil de motif (M).
  11. Procédé selon la revendication 10, caractérisé en ce que, avec les coulisseaux intermédiaires (SZ) dans la première position (2) et avec une partie de came de poussoir (30), les premières aiguilles (SN1) sélectionnées au niveau du premier point de sélection (A1) sont poussées hors de la came de tricotage en filigrane (100) d'une moitié d'hauteur de pied d'aiguille et sont ainsi amenées dans la première courbure de retrait (K1).
  12. Procédé selon l'une des revendications 10 ou 11, caractérisé en ce que les premières et secondes aiguilles (SN1, SN2) sont extraites jusqu'à ce que les mailles déjà présentes dans les premières et secondes aiguilles (SN1, SN2) coulissent derrière une languette d'aiguille ouverte des aiguilles (SN1, SN2).
  13. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 10 à 12, caractérisé en ce que les premières et secondes aiguilles (SN1, SN2) sont retirées jusqu'à ce que les mailles précédemment formées par ces aiguilles (SN1, SN2) soient coupées.
  14. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 10 à 13, caractérisé en ce que, pour former le tissu tricoté (11-14), des fils de liage et des fils de motif (B, M), différents ou identiques en matière, couleur ou épaisseur, sont utilisés.
EP18167511.7A 2018-04-16 2018-04-16 Machine à tricoter rectiligne et procédé de fabrication d'un tricot à motifs filigranes Active EP3556921B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP18167511.7A EP3556921B1 (fr) 2018-04-16 2018-04-16 Machine à tricoter rectiligne et procédé de fabrication d'un tricot à motifs filigranes
CN201910303700.0A CN110387636B (zh) 2018-04-16 2019-04-16 用于制造金银丝针织物的针织横机和方法

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP18167511.7A EP3556921B1 (fr) 2018-04-16 2018-04-16 Machine à tricoter rectiligne et procédé de fabrication d'un tricot à motifs filigranes

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EP3556921A1 EP3556921A1 (fr) 2019-10-23
EP3556921B1 true EP3556921B1 (fr) 2021-09-01

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Cited By (1)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP4261333A1 (fr) * 2022-04-14 2023-10-18 KARL MAYER STOLL R&D GmbH Métier à tricoter rectiligne et procédé de fabrication d'un tricot vanisé double face, en particulier d'un tricot filigrane

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP4019681B1 (fr) * 2020-12-23 2025-03-05 KARL MAYER STOLL R&D GmbH Came de tricotage pour un métier à tricoter rectiligne, métier à tricoter rectiligne et procédé de fonctionnement de ladite machine à tricoter rectiligne
EP4019680B1 (fr) * 2020-12-23 2023-06-07 KARL MAYER STOLL R&D GmbH Système de tricotage pour un métier à tricoter rectiligne, métier à tricoter rectiligne avec dutit système et procédé de fonctionnement du métier à tricoter rectiligne
KR20230153473A (ko) 2021-03-10 2023-11-06 가부시키가이샤 시마세이키 세이사쿠쇼 횡편기에 의한 펀치 레이스 편성포의 편성방법

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EP3115491B2 (fr) 2015-07-09 2022-08-03 H. Stoll AG & Co. KG Machine à tricoter rectiligne
EP3128055B1 (fr) 2015-08-05 2018-09-19 H. Stoll AG & Co. KG Systeme de cames pour une machine a tricoter rectiligne et machine a tricoter rectiligne

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Cited By (1)

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EP4261333A1 (fr) * 2022-04-14 2023-10-18 KARL MAYER STOLL R&D GmbH Métier à tricoter rectiligne et procédé de fabrication d'un tricot vanisé double face, en particulier d'un tricot filigrane

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CN110387636B (zh) 2021-10-01
CN110387636A (zh) 2019-10-29

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