EP1458335A2 - Cosmetic composition forming a soft film comprising a polymer with silicone-free skeleton including reactive functions - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns non-adherent cosmetic compositions, in particular for the hair, comprising at least a polymer with silicone-free skeleton, including reactive chemical functions, designed to form a soft film on the hair. The invention also concerns a cosmetic method comprising application of said composition on the hair and its use for producing a soft film on the hair.

Description

 COSMETIC COMPOSITION FORMING A SOFT SHEATH COMPRISING A POLYMER WITH NON-SILICONE SKELETON AND

REACTIVE FUNCTIONS

The subject of the invention is .obstant-free cosmetic compositions, in particular hair compositions, comprising at least one polymer with a non-silicone backbone comprising reactive chemical functions, capable of forming a soft sheathing on the hair. It also relates to a cosmetic process comprising the application of this non tackant composition to the hair as well as its use for producing soft sheathing on the hair.

According to the invention, to determine whether the free organic functions

(F) of a polymer (P) constitute reactive chemical functions, test 1 described below is used:

(1) A solution is prepared or dispersion of the polymer (P) in a cosmetically acceptable solvent selected from water, alcohols Ci to _C4, esters, ketones, and preferably water, this solution or dispersion having a relative polymer content of between 0.1 and 50% by weight;

(2) For a period of between 1 to 60 minutes, the solution or the dispersion of polymer (P) is left to stand or it is subjected to at least one of the following operations: (i) It is stirred;

(ii) it is activated by a temperature between 0 ° C and 100 ° C; (iii) it is activated by a pH of between 1 and 13;

(iv) It is activated by at least one chemical additive (A) chosen from molecules or polymers carrying free chemical functions capable of reacting with at least one free organic function (F) of the polymer (P), the additive (A) being preferably a polymer carrying chemical functions identical to those of the hair, chosen from the amino, alcohol, carboxylic acid, disulfide and thiol functions;

(3) The solution or dispersion of polymers (P) is examined, by methods known to a person skilled in the art, in particular by infrared or RAMAN spectrometry, in order to determine whether at least one free organic function (F) of the polymer (P) gave rise to the formation of covalent bonds, connecting, for example: - two atoms present in free organic functions (F) belonging to different polymers (P), - an atom present in the polymer (P) and a atom present in the chemical additive (A);

(4) The polymer (P) is qualified as a “polymer with reactive functions” if the formation of covalent bond (s) is (are) detected in point (3) and on the condition that that (s) ) -this does not result (s) exclusively from hydrolysis or oxidation of the latter.

The polymers with a non-silicone skeleton and with reactive functions in accordance with the present invention have the particularity of being capable of forming covalent bonds by the implementation of test 1. This characteristic distinguishes them from most of the polymers known in the field of hair compositions, which do not react, under the conditions of test 1, by forming strong bonds, but at most by interacting with each other or with additives by bonds of the hydrogen or saline bond type.

The term “polymer with non-silicone backbone” is understood to mean a polymer which is not exclusively made up of sequences - Si-O-Si-, in its main chain.

The present invention excludes polymers with reactive photoactivatable functions, that is to say polymers comprising chemical functions, which irradiated at a wavelength between 200 and 800 nm, give rise, in one or more stages, to the formation of new covalent bonds. Cosmetic products intended for hair treatments often use polymers. They make it possible to obtain effects for maintaining the shape of the hairstyle, effects of softness or effects of shine, for example.

Some of the compositions using the polymers have drawbacks which can be troublesome. For example, if after applying a product containing polymers, a person passes his hand over his hair, some of the polymers may, at the time of contact, be deposited on his fingers. This transfer phenomenon, even if it is partial, leaves an impression of dirty or sticky hair. The extent of this transfer may depend on climatic conditions. So, in a humid environment, it is often especially important.

Furthermore, when sebum covers the hair, either along its length or at the root, and a cosmetic product, such as a styling product, is applied to the latter, the latter can not only be ineffective, but, in addition , make hair even more artificially shiny and dirtier.

Another disadvantage of the polymers used in cosmetics lies in the fact that they sometimes dry out the hair, thereby causing a deterioration in their feel and a reduction in the expected effect of the product, for example the effect of fixing and / or of maintaining the hairstyle. We can also cite, as an additional drawback, the fact that the polymers deposited on the hair are very quickly removed during shampoos.

In particular, when one chooses to use polymers forming on the hair a coating, in particular a film, of soft consistency, the feel of the hair is often especially rough or sticky, and unpleasant. In addition, this soft coating is removed immediately when washing the hair, and it is therefore necessary to reapply the product, at least after each shampoo.

There is therefore a need to produce non-tacky cosmetic compositions which are improved compared to the compositions of the prior art, and in particular which do not stick to the fingers after application to the hair, do not dry them out and give them good cosmetic properties, even in the presence of sebum and which are persistent after repeated washing.

Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the Applicant has discovered that it was possible to achieve the objectives listed above by selecting the polymers introduced in the non tacking cosmetic compositions, according to the nature of the chemical functions which they carry and according to the characteristics. of the film they form on the hair.

The subject of the invention is therefore a non tackant cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one polymer with a non-silicone skeleton, comprising at least two reactive chemical functions, identical or different, not photoactivatable, characterized by the fact that :

(i) a film obtained by drying the composition at room temperature (22 ± 2 ° C) and at a relative humidity level of 50% ± 5%, has a Young's modulus of between 1 and 100 MPa, limits excluded, measured at a thickness of 0.5 mm and at a pull of 20 mm / min,

(ii) the reactive function (s) is (are) chosen from the following monovalent or divalent groups: epoxy, anhydride, - acid chloride, ethylene-imino,

- aldehyde,

- acetal or semi-acetal,

- aminal or semi-aminal, - ketone, alpha-haloketone or alpha-hydroxyketone,

- lactone or thiolactone,

- isocyanate,

- thiocyanate, - N-hydroxysuccinimide ester,

- imide,

- imine,

- imidate, - oxazoline, oxazolinium, oxazine or oxazinium, - _. pyridyl-thio,

- thiosulfate,

- acetoalkylate corresponding to the formula: -OCO-A'-COCH _3d

A 'representing a bond, an alkylene group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms,

- AX,

- ASO ₂ X,

. X is a leaving group chosen from halogens, OSO ₃ H, SO CH3, SO ₂ C ₂ H ₅ , SO ₂ Tos, N (CH3) ₃ , OPO ₃ R ₂ , CN, Tos representing a tosylate group,

R represents either a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical -C _5. A is an alkylene, arylene, alkalylene group comprising between 1 and 22 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by one or more unsaturated rings, and optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms, such as N, S, O.

The tackant compositions, namely the compositions which give, after application to the keratin fibers and drying, a styling material having a delamination profile defined by at least:

- a maximum detachment force F _max > 1 Newton, and - preferably, in addition, by a separation energy E _{S (M} V ₎ of the material brought into contact with a glass surface, less than 300 μJ, Fm _a x and E _S (M / V) being measured according to the protocol described in international application WO98 / 38969, filed by the Applicant, are excluded from the present application.

Another object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic process comprising the application of this non tackant composition. Yet another object of the present invention relates to the use of this non tackant composition, for producing a soft sheathing on the hair.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sheathing" means an envelope formed on the surface of each hair, after drying of the non tacky cosmetic composition. This envelope has almost the shape of a hollow cylinder which can extend from the root to the tip of the hair and which strongly adheres to it.

Without being bound by any theory, the Applicant believes that the polymers with a non-silicone skeleton present in the non-tacky cosmetic compositions according to the invention can, due to their reactive functions, identical or different, react totally or partially, either on them -same, either with each other, or with the hair, sensitized or not, or with one or more reactive constituents of the hair composition and this, after application of the cosmetic composition to the hair, to form a cladding. The mechanism of the cladding formation can be better understood by means of the following example reaction schemes:

1) Reaction of two polymers with reactive epoxy functions with a reactive ingredient of the composition having the formula RHN-A-NHR ',

+ HN-A-NHR '

2) Reaction of two polymers with reactive epoxy functions with an amine function of the hair, Ymere

The reaction of polymers with a non-silicone skeleton according to the invention with one another and / or with the hair can be favored by adding heat, by adding the constituents, for example, pH regulating agents, chemical active agents, such as oxidants, reducers, inhibitors or polymerization catalysts.

Preferably, the polymer with a non-silicone skeleton, containing at least two reactive functions contains less than 50% by number of ester functions of carboxylic acid relative to the total number of reactive chemical functions.

Advantageously, the leaving group X represents a halogen chosen from bromine, chlorine, iodine and fluorine.

When the polymer with a non-silicone backbone, having at least two reactive functions contains an epoxy group, the latter is preferably monovalent and corresponds to formula (I):

Formula I

in which R i, R ₂ and R ₃ represent, independently of each other - a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom (s) chosen from O, N, S, Si and F, and optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy radicals or amino,

an aryl group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, or an aralkyl group, the alkyl group comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms,

- a heterocycle of 5 to 7 links.

When the non-silicone backbone polymer having at least two reactive functions contains a carboxylic acid anhydride group, the latter is preferably monovalent and corresponds: (a) either to formula (II):

Formula II in which R, R ₅ , R ₆ , R ₇ and R ₈ have, independently of each other, the same meanings as those given for R i, R ₂ and R ₃ in formula (I), (b) either to formula (III):

Formula III in which Y represents: '

- a bond, - a heteroatom chosen from O, N, S, Si and F,

an alkyl or alkylene radical, substituted or not substituted by one or more hydroxy or amino radicals, containing between 1 and 5 carbon atoms, - an aralkylene radical, containing between 7 and 10 carbon atoms or

a polydimethylsiloxane radical containing between 1 and 6 silicon atoms, and

R ₉ , R ιo and R n have, independently of each other, the same meanings as those given for R i, R ₂ and R ₃ in formula (I).

When the non-silicone skeleton polymer having at least two reactive functions contains an acetoalkylate group, the latter is preferably included in a group corresponding to formula (IV):

- R'ι-OCO-A'-COCH ₃ Formula IV in which R'i is obtained by elimination of any one of the hydrogen atoms of the radical Ri defined in formula (I) and A 'has the meaning indicated above.

When the polymer with a non-silicone backbone, having at least two reactive functions contains an acid chloride group, the latter is preferably included in a group corresponding to formula (V):

-R'i-COCI

Formula V in which R 'i has the same meaning as in formula (IV).

When the polymer with a non-silicone backbone, having at least two reactive functions contains an isocyanate group, the latter is preferably included in a group corresponding to formula (VI):

-R'i-NCO Formula VI in which R 'has the same meaning as in formula (IV). When the polymer with a non-silicone backbone, having at least two reactive functions contains an acetal group, the latter is preferably monovalent and included in at least one of the formulas (VII), (VIII) or (IX):

Formulas VII VIII LX

in which :

R i, R ₂ and R ₃ have the meaning indicated for formula (I),

R'i and R ' ₂ are obtained by elimination of any of the hydrogen atoms from the radical Ri or R ₂ defined in formula (I)

A "and A '" are identical or different and represent an alkyl or alkylene group, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 5 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom (s) chosen from O, N, S, Si, F, and optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy or amino radicals.

Particularly preferred, as polymers with a non-silicone backbone containing at least two reactive functions, the polymers chosen from:

(a) the copolymers synthesized from (meth) acrylate and acrylate monomers, with acetoacetate functions, corresponding to the general formula (IV.1):

Formula IV .1 in which Ri represents H or CH ₃ and Y has the same meaning as that indicated for formula (III), Ri preferably representing CH ₃ and Y preferably representing - (CH ₂ ) ₂ . (b) polymers synthesized from (meth) acrylate and (meth) acrylamide monomers with acetal functions, these monomers corresponding to general formulas (VII.1) or (VIII.1):

VIL 1 formulas VIII .1

with Y = O or NH

R ₃ = H or CH ₃

A, A ", A '", Ri and R ₂ having the same meanings as above.

The copolymers synthesized from N-ethyl acetal acrylamide of formula (VII.2)

Formula VIII .2 are particularly preferred.

(c) copolymers with acetal functions obtained by chemical modification of synthetic or natural polymers, and in particular copolymers resulting from the reaction of one or more aldehydes on poly (vinyl alcohol / vinyl acetate) of general formula (X):

in which R has the same meaning as that given above, n, m and p are between 1 and 10,000.

These syntheses are known to those skilled in the art and described in the Précis de Matières Plastiques, JPTrotigon, J. Verdu, Editions Nathan, 1996. The polymers with non-silicone skeleton used according to the invention are obtained according to the conventional processes for polymerization or modification of polymers.

To obtain these polymers, one of the stages of the production process preferably consists of:

- polycondensation,

an opening of at least one cycle comprising a number of carbon atoms between 2 and 9 or a cycle comprising a number of silicon atoms between 2 and 4, these cycles being able to include one or more heteroatoms such as N , O, S, Si;

- A polymerization of unsaturated monomers of radical, ionic type, by group transfer.

The polymeric backbones according to the invention can be linear, branched, hyperbranched or dendritic. They can have one or more types of repeating units, and therefore can be homopolymers or copolymers which are then random or alternating or block.

The reactive functions are distributed along the main or secondary chains of the polymers according to the invention, possibly at the ends of the chains in the case of branched, hyperbranched and dendritic polymers.

In the case where the polymer with a non-silicone backbone according to the invention is formed by a polymerization process from the above list, the reactive functions can either be present on the monomers serving as starting material for the polymerization, or be formed by reaction of the monomers with one another during the polymerization, or be provided by at least one chemical step adding to the polymerization, for example a step consisting in grafting, specifically on the polymer obtained, molecular or polymeric units carrying the functions reagents (I) to (LX) adequate. To carry out polycondensation, the operating protocols described in Step polymerisation inprinciples ofpolymerization, G. ODIAN 3 ed. Wiley interscience-

In the case of polycondensation, the monomers used as starting material are preferably chosen from diamines and / and diols in reaction with diisocyanates or diacids or diesters, and lead to polyurethanes, polyamides, polyesters, and the aziridines and their derivatives lead to polyalkyleneimines, such as polyethyleneimines and their derivatives.

For example, a polyurethane can be obtained by reaction of the monomers: isophorone diisocyanate, hexamethylenediisocyanate, methylene-biscychohexane-diisocyanate, polytetramethylene glycol dihydroxyl.

To perform a ring opening comprising a number of carbon atoms between 2 and 9 or comprising a number of silicon atoms between 2 and 4, these cycles optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms from N, O, S, Si , we follow, for example, the procedures described in Ring opening polymerization in "Comprehensive P.olymer Science". Perg. Press voî3.

In the case of a ring opening, the monomers used as starting material, to form the polymers, are preferably chosen from cyclic esters (lactones) and cyclic amides (lactams), such as for example:

caprolactone

caprolactam

In the case where the polymer with a non-silicone skeleton according to the invention is formed by a process for obtaining comprising a step consisting of a ring opening, the reactive functions can either be present in the monomers serving as starting material and comprising a ring, for example as a chemical substituent present on the rings, either be formed after reaction, between them, of these monomers comprising a ring, or be provided by at least one chemical step adding to the opening step cycle; for example a separate step consisting in grafting molecular or polymeric units carrying the appropriate reactive functions (I) to (IX).

To carry out radical or anionic polymerization, the procedures described in Radical polymerization and anionic polymerization, in Principles of Polymerization, G. ODIAN 3 ed, are followed, for example. Wiley interscience-

In the case of radical or anionic polymerization, the monomers used as starting material, to form the polymers, are preferably chosen from vinyls, dienes, (meth) acrylates, (meth) acrylamides. .

In the case of a radical or anionic polymerization, the polymer is preferably made up of at least ten units linked by covalent bonds. The reactive functions, present on the polymer used in the constitution of the non-tackant compositions in accordance with the invention, may already be present on the monomers serving as starting material for the radical reaction, or optionally be formed during the radical reaction, or again, for example, to be added to the polymer by any additional chemical step.

It is also possible to use natural polymers and chemically modified natural polymers to provide them with the reactive functions listed above. Mention will be made, for example and without limitation, of polysaccharides (cellulose, chitosan, guar and their derivatives), polypeptides (polyaspartic acid, polylysine and their derivatives). In ^'this case, these polymers exhibit naturally or after modification of the hydroxy, amine, carboxylic acid, thiol, aldehyde, epoxy is used whose reactivity as is in the non tackante composition (e.g., with polymers carrying epoxy functions) or to provide the chemical functions listed above.

By way of example, the polymer can be modified as follows:

- R

In order to determine Young's modulus, a composition containing a polymer in accordance with the invention is used in an amount suitable for obtaining, in a Teflon matrix, a dry film with a thickness of 500 ± 50 μm. Drying is continued until the weight of the film no longer changes.

To measure Young's modulus, tensile tests are carried out. The film is cut into rectangular test pieces, 80 mm long and 15 mm wide.

The tests are carried out on a device marketed under the name Lloyd or ^' marketed under the name Zwick under the same conditions of temperature and humidity as for drying, that is to say a temperature of 22 ± 2 °. C and a relative humidity of 50 ± 5%.

The test pieces are drawn at a speed of 20mm / min and the distance between the jaws is 50 ± 1 mm.

The process according to the invention comprises the application to the hair of a non tackant cosmetic composition according to the invention.

Advantageously, it comprises the additional operations consisting in causing a change in pH and / or, a rise in temperature and / or carrying out the addition of one or more additives and / or rinsing. According to one embodiment of the invention, a care, coloring, permanent deformation, hair make-up, fixing and / or hairstyling composition is applied before applying a non-tacking composition in accordance with the invention.

In the non tacking compositions in accordance with the invention, the polymer (s) with non-silicone skeleton, with reactive functions, are preferably present at concentrations of between 0.05 and 20% by weight, more preferably between 0.1 and 15% by weight, and more preferably between 0.25 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In accordance with the invention, the composition advantageously contains, in addition, conventional cosmetic additives chosen from fixing polymers, thickeners, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, perfumes, preservatives, sun filters, proteins , vitamins, provitamins, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric non-fixing polymers, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides, volatile or non-volatile, linear or cyclic silicones, modified or not, agents pH regulators, oxidants, reducers, inhibitors, catalysts and any other additive conventionally used in cosmetic compositions intended to be applied to the hair.

The cosmetically acceptable medium is preferably constituted by water and / or one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents such as alcohols, esters, ketones or cyclic volatile silicones or water-solvent (s) mixtures, these solvents preferably being Cι-C ₄ alcohols.

When the non tackant composition according to the invention is packaged in an aerosol device, it comprises at least one propellant, which can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane, halogenated hydrocarbons and their mixtures. It is also possible to use, as propellant, carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME), nitrogen, compressed air. Mixtures of propellants can also be used. Preferably, dimethyl ether is used.

Advantageously, the propellant is present at a concentration between 5 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in the aerosol device and, more particularly, at a concentration between 10 and 60%.

The non tacking compositions in accordance with the invention can be applied to dry or damp hair.

The invention will be more fully illustrated with the aid of the following nonlimiting example.

Example:

1. Preparation of the PI polymer: adipic acid / diethylene triamine / piperazine / epichlorohydrin polycondensate

The operating protocol for the manufacture of the PI polymer comes from FR 2 252 840.

The constitution of the polymer prepared before crosslinking with epichlorohydrin can be represented by the following two patterns distributed statistically in the proportions 2: 1

The mixture of 438 g (3 moles) of adipic acid and 86 g (1 mole) of piperazine is heated with stirring and under a nitrogen atmosphere for two hours at 120-135 ° C. Then, at this temperature and over 90 minutes, 206 g (2 moles) of diethylenetriamine. The water formed is distilled for one hour at 140-170 ° c at ordinary pressure, then 1 hour at 170-175 ° C under 15 mm Hg.

The product thus obtained is in the form of a hard brittle, transparent and yellow-green resin.

To 200 g of this resin dissolved in 800 g of water, 72 g of epichlorohydrin are added with stirring at ordinary temperature. The mixture is then heated to 90 ° C. and a further 8 g of epichlorohydrin are added in small fractions at 5 or 10 minute intervals.

The solution is then quickly diluted with 1090g of water to obtain a concentration of 10%.

The amount of crosslinker used is stoichiometric with respect to the amino groups of the polyamido amino, which guarantees the presence of reactive epoxy functions in the molecules of the crosslinked polymer.

2. The following composition is made:

Polymer 1 5 g

Monoethanolamine 1 g

Water qs 100 g

Young 's modulus of the film resulting from the composition is approximately 6.3 Mpa.

The composition applied to hair and dried gives them a soft sheathing resistant to shampoos.

Claims

1. A non tackant cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one polymer with a non-silicone skeleton comprising at least two reactive chemical functions, identical or different, not photoactivatable, characterized in that: (i) a film obtained by drying the composition at room temperature (22 ± 2 ° C) and at a relative humidity level of 50% ± 5%, has a Young's modulus of between 1 and 100 MPa, limits excluded, measured at a thickness of 0.5 mm and at a pull of 20 mm / min, (ii) the reactive function (s) is (are) chosen from the following monovalent or divalent groups: epoxy, anhydride, - acid chloride, ethylene-imino, - aldehyde, - acetal or semi-acetal, - aminal or semi-aminal, - ketone, alpha-haloketone or alpha-hydroxyketone, - lactone or thiolactone, - isocyanate, - thiocyanate, - N-hydroxysuccinimide ester, - imide, - imine, - imidate, - oxazoline, oxazolinium, oxazine or oxazinium, - pyridyl-thio, - thiosulfate, - acetoalkylate corresponding to the formula: -OCO-A'-COCH _3> A 'representing a bond, an alkylene group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, - AX, - ASO ₂ X, . X is a leaving group chosen from halogens, OSO ₃ H, SO ₂ CH3, SO ₂ C ₂ H ₅ , SO ₂ Tos, N (CH3) ₃ , OPO ₃ R ₂ , CN, Tos representing a tosylate group, R representing either a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical -C ₅ . A is an alkylene, arylene, alkalylene group comprising between 1 and 22 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by one or more iήsaturated rings, and optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms, such as N, S, O. 2. Composition according to Claims 1, characterized in that the polymer with a non-silicone backbone, containing at least two reactive functions contains less than 50% by number of carboxylic acid ester functions relative to the total number of reactive chemical functions. 3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that X represents a halogen chosen from bromine, chlorine, iodine and fluorine. 4. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the epoxy group is monovalent and corresponds to formula (I): Formula I in which R ₁ , R ₂ and R 3 represent, independently of each other: - a hydrogen atom, - an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom (s) chosen from O, N, S, Si and F, and optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy or amino radicals , an aryl group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, or an aralkyl group, the alkyl group comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, - a heterocycle of 5 to 7 links. 5. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the anhydride group of carboxylic acid is monovalent and corresponds to formula (II): Formula II in which R, R ₅ , R ₆ , R ₇ and R ₈ have, independently of one another, the same meanings as those given for R i, R ₂ and R ₃ in formula (I). 6. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the carboxylic acid anhydride group is monovalent and corresponds to formula (III): Formula III in which Y represents: - a bond, - a heteroatom chosen from O, N, S, Si and F, an alkyl or alkylene radical, substituted or not substituted by one or more hydroxy or amino radicals, containing between 1 and 5 carbon atoms, - an aralkylene radical, containing between 7 and 10 carbon atoms or a polydimethylsiloxane radical containing between 1 and 6 silicon atoms, and R ₉ , R ιo and R n have, independently of each other, the same meanings as those given for R i, R ₂ and R ₃ in formula (I). 7. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the acetoalkylate group is included in a group corresponding to formula (IV): - R'ι-OCO-A'-COCH ₃ Formula IV in which R'i is obtained by elimination of any one of the hydrogen atoms of the radical Ri defined in formula (I) and A 'has the meaning indicated in claim 1. 8. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the acid chloride group is included in a group corresponding to formula (V): -R'i-COCl Formula V in which R'i has the same meaning as in formula (IV). 9. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the isocyanate group is included in a group corresponding to formula (VI): Formula VI in which R'i has the same meaning as in formula (IV). 10. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the acetal group is monovalent and included in at least one of the formulas (VII), (VIII) or (LX): Forms VII VIII IX in which: R i, R ₂ and R ₃ have the meaning indicated for formula (I), R'i and R ' ₂ are obtained by elimination of any of the hydrogen atoms from the radical Ri or R ₂ defined in formula (I) A "and A '" are identical or different and represent an alkyl or alkylene group, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 5 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom (s) chosen from O, N, S, Si, F, and optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy or amino radicals. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the polymer with a non-silicone skeleton and with reactive function is obtained by a process in which one of the stages consists of: - polycondensation, an opening of at least one cycle comprising a number of carbon atoms between 2 and 9 or a cycle comprising a number of silicon atoms between 2 and 4, these cycles being able to include one or more heteroatoms such as N , O, S, Si; - A polymerization of unsaturated monomers of radical, ionic type, by group transfer. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer (s) with non-silicone skeleton and with reactive functions is (are) present (s) at concentrations of between 0.05 and 20% by weight, more preferably between 0.1 and 15% ^by weight, more preferably between 0.25 and 10% by weight with respect to total weight of the composition. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises conventional cosmetic additives chosen from fixing polymers, thickeners, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, perfumes , preservatives, sunscreens, proteins, vitamins, provitamins, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric non-fixing polymers, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides, volatile or non-volatile silicones, linear or cyclic, modified or not, pH regulating agents, oxidants, reducers, inhibitors, catalysts and any other additive conventionally used in cosmetic compositions intended to be applied to the hair. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetically acceptable medium consists of water and / or one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents such as alcohols or cyclic volatile silicones or water mixtures -solvent (s), these solvents preferably being Cι-C alcohols. 15. Aerosol device comprising a composition according to any one of the preceding claims, as well as at least one propellant. 16. Cosmetic treatment method, characterized in that it comprises the application of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14. 17. The method of claim 18, characterized in that one applies a care composition, coloring, permanent deformation, hair makeup, fixing and / or maintaining the hairstyle, before applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14. 18. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, to form a soft sheathing on the hair.