EP0260495B1 - Method for dyeing texile materials made of wool and polyester fibres - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a process for the discontinuous dyeing of strand-like textile material made of linear polyester fibers in a mixture with wool and dyes which are suitable for these types of fibers and which are suitable for these types of fibers according to the pull-out technique, the feed for the transport of the goods within the self-contained system via the actuation of the nozzle system by means of the kinetic energy of a circulated gas stream which is not inert with regard to the dyeing behavior of dyes and textile material, the dyeing liquor is simultaneously added to this flowing gas in the nozzle section for the goods drive and thus brought into contact with the textile material in accordance with the preselected temperature and pressure conditions, where it acts directly under fixing conditions.

The common dyeing of the two components of polyester fiber / wool blends in the drawing process is generally known. For this purpose, the wool portion of the textile goods is usually colored with acid, metal complex or reactive dyes, depending on the authenticity requirements in practice, the disperse dyes required for dyeing the polyester fiber component usually being in the same bath and often also being fixed simultaneously. The disperse dyes are fixed either at cooking temperature or at a temperature around 106 _° C with the help of carriers, or under high temperature (HT) conditions (120 - 125 _° C) without the use of a carrier. However, the latter HT process for dye fixation requires the addition of wool protection agents in the case of the special composition of the fiber mixture to be dyed. Without this, the wool would suffer severe damage due to the high dyeing temperatures used. Formaldehyde has proven to be the cheapest and most effective wool protection agent in this field.

European patent EP-AO 078 022 now describes a process for wet treatment, in particular for dyeing, according to which a gas stream in a jet dyeing machine takes over the advancement of the strand-like textile material to be finished, with isothermal conditions for carrying out the successive operations be created. The dye liquor is then metered into the driving gas stream and brought into contact with the dye material under isothermal conditions. The fleet is quickly distributed in the dye material and fixing processes of dyes on the respective fiber materials also start at the same time.

In the case of dyeing mixtures of polyester fibers and wool, the liquor used therefor contains dispersed or dissolved dyes for both types of fibers and acid or buffer substances for adjusting a pH in the range from 4.5 to 6.5 in the aqueous medium used.

In the following, polyester fibers are preferably meant to be normally dyeable types of this fiber category, i.e. fibers that cannot be dyed carrier-free at cooking temperature as a result of a modification of their uniform polymeric fiber structure.

If, for the envisaged single-bath dyeing of polyester fiber / wool blends, the process described above from EP-AO 078 022 is now to be carried out under high temperature conditions, it has been shown here that the use of formaldehyde, which is necessary due to the given conditions, has been shown as a wool protection agent can lead to severe annoyance and possibly damage to the operating personnel, because the jet dyeing machines used, on the other hand, can only be sealed well enough with uneconomically high expenditure. As a result, the HT dyeing process has to be omitted for the stated purpose because of the difficulties in this regard.

If, however, the alternative process variant is envisaged for the execution of the said dyeing of the fiber mixture, then in the course of the pull-out operation at boiling temperature or at a temperature of around 106 ° C. for the previously defined, unmodified polyester fiber type, carriers are required to the textile material to be able to dye sufficiently deep. In this case, however, the use of carriers directly in the dyeing liquor in turn poses leveling problems and decreases in authenticity for wool dyeing.

The object of the invention explained below, however, was to ensure that the polyester fibers / wool mixtures did not affect the environment by avoiding the described, intolerable shortcomings due to the presence of formaldehyde and without the loss of authenticity after an exhaust process at cooking temperature or at a temperature around 106 ° C in a jet dyeing machine under isothermal conditions.

This object is achieved in that after the isothermal addition of the dye liquor containing the dyes for both types of fibers and pH regulators, the goods are first treated for 10-20 minutes at cooking temperature or at a temperature around 106 ° C., only then the dispersion / The emulsion of a carrier is metered into the driving gas stream and finally the coloring is completed in the course of a further 10 to 30 minutes under isothermal conditions.

The principle on which the invention is based, namely the subsequent metering of the carrier emulsion into the driving gas stream, both achieves the full carrier effect and eliminates authenticity problems and leveling difficulties. This new process provides perfectly level dyeings and, compared to the usual working methods for the same purpose, saves energy and chemicals and reduces the emission of waste water.

The color yield on both types of fibers is also improved according to the process due to the short liquor ratio used and the authenticity reductions as a result of the direct addition of carrier to the dye liquor in the initial stage of the treatment process are avoided.

According to the claimed process, all acid dyes suitable for wool are suitable for dyeing the wool portion; For the polyester fiber content, a selection of such dyes from the class of disperse dyes (C.I. Disperse Dyes) can be made, which can be used according to carrier dyeing methods.

Commercially available dispersions or emulsions of substituted aromatics, e.g. Aromatic chlorine, phenols, salicylic acid esters and mixtures thereof, which may also contain hydrocarbons, etc. more in question. Before being used in the process according to the invention, they are diluted with water and metered into the gas stream of the jet in such a way that they can form a fine mist on the textile material.

The procedure for the claimed method of working is therefore roughly as follows:

After loading the jet dyeing machine with the textile material made of polyester fibers and wool, the blower of the piece dyeing system is started and in this way the circulation of the strand-like material is achieved aerodynamically. Sometimes the loading process itself can advantageously take place with the participation of the gas flow generated by the blower. By adding steam to the flowing transport gas, both the heating of the goods together with the dyeing kettle loaded with them to a temperature of 100-106 _° C and also a moistening of the circulating strand are brought about.

Now the separately prepared dyeing liquor is metered into the heated gas stream via the injection pump serving the treatment agent additive and a nozzle system in the gas circuit. It contains dyes for both types of fibers as well as pH regulators for setting a pH value between 4.5 and 6.5 and any other aids; Their temperature is 80 - 100 _° C, so that the isothermal conditions on the goods are only slightly disturbed by the liquor supply, especially since the amount of liquid is dimensioned as short as possible, which is about 2-4 times the pure weight of the goods. The sluicing process takes place over the duration of several rounds of the textile goods. Then this liquor is allowed to act on the rotating paint for about 10-20 minutes at 100-106 _° C.

After this period, the carrier preparation diluted with a little water (2-3 times the amount) of 60 ° C begins. Like the addition of the liquor, this is done via a metering pump and the atomizing nozzle, distributed over at least one circulation of the textile goods. After a further 10 - 30 minutes treatment time at 100 - 106 ° C, the measures for the dyeing operation are completed and the post-treatment of the fiber mixture dyed in this way can take place in the usual way.

The following examples are not intended to restrict the claimed method in any way, especially not with regard to the dye combinations used, but merely serve to illustrate the procedure according to the present invention. The percentages contained in these exemplary embodiments relate to the weight of the objects referred to and are calculated on the dry state of the paint. The dyes mentioned are used in a commercial form and quality.

example 1

A gabardine made of a wool / polyester fiber mixture (in a ratio of 45:55) is placed in a rope in a jet dyeing machine, circulated therein using a steam / air mixture, and at the same time moistened and preheated to 95 ° C. The fabric then contains 50% of moisture resulting from condensed steam.

• 0,7 % des Farbstoffes Disperse Yellow 64 mit der C.I.-Nr. 47023,
• 0,65 % des Farbstoffes Disperse Red 60 mit der C.L-Nr. 60756,
• 0,6 % des Farbstoffes Disperse Red 65 mit der C.I.-Nr. 11228, und
• 0,14 % des Farbstoffes Disperse Blue 56 mit der C.I.-Nr. 63285, sowie
• 0,16 % der 1:2-Chrom-Komplexverbindung des sauren Wollfarbstoffes der Formel
  
• 0,07 % der 1:2-Chrom-Komplexverbindung des sauren Wollfarbstoffes der Formel
  
  und
• 0,08 % einer 1:2-Metall-Komplexverbindung hergestellt durch Mischchromierung aus den beiden (im Verhältnis 1:1) sauren Wollfarbstoffen der Formeln
  

One after the other, 150% of additional moisture is then fed in by injection via the nozzle system in the form of an aqueous liquor heated to the treatment temperature, in which 2% of a buffer mixture of ammonium acetate and acetic acid are dissolved to adjust the pH 5, and which in addition 3 g / 1 of a leveling aid based on the reaction product of 1 mole of stearylamine with 12 moles of ethylene oxide and, dispersed or dissolved in a further 100% of water supplied at 95 _° C., also contains the colorants described below:

• 0.7% of the dye Disperse Yellow 64 with the CI no. 47023,
• 0.65% of the Disperse Red 60 dye with CL no. 60756,
• 0.6% of the Disperse Red 65 dye with CI no. 11228, and
• 0.14% of the dye Disperse Blue 56 with the CI no. 63285, as well
• 0.16% of the 1: 2 chromium complex compound of the acidic wool dye of the formula
  
• 0.07% of the 1: 2 chromium complex compound of the acidic wool dye of the formula
  
  and
• 0.08% of a 1: 2 metal complex compound produced by mixed chromium plating from the two (in a ratio of 1: 1) acidic wool dyes of the formulas
  

After the dye bath has been loaded, the temperature of the circulating liquor is raised to 100 _° C. by blowing in steam and the goods are dyed for 20 minutes under these conditions.

In the meantime, separately from the liquor cycle, 0.9% of a commercially available carrier based on methyl salicyclate, in a mixture with aliphatic hydrocarbons, has been emulsified in 2-3 times the amount of water at 60 _° C. After the aforementioned 20-minute treatment period has elapsed, this emulsion is metered in via the jet system's nozzle system and - while the paint takes part in several cycles - is applied to the strand at 100 _° C.

• 0,5 % Essigsäure und
• 2 g/I eines Hilfsmittels enthaltend
• 40 % mit 36 Mol oxethyliertes Ricinusöl,
• 42 % Ca-phenylcogasinsulfonat sowie
• 16 % Isopropanol
• beim Flottenverhältnis von 1:10 nachbehandelt. Schließlich wird die in der angegebenen Weise erzeugte Färbung erneut warm und kalt mit Wasser gespült sowie getrocknet.

After a further 20 minutes of dyeing at 100 _° C, the circulated treatment bath is drained off; the dyed goods are then cooled by adding less warm water to the dyeing jet and rinsed at the same time and then for 20 minutes at 75 _° C. with a freshly prepared, aqueous bath with the addition of

• 0.5% acetic acid and
• Containing 2 g / l of an auxiliary
• 40% with 36 moles of oxyethylated castor oil,
• 42% Ca-phenylcogasinsulfonat as well
• 16% isopropanol
• aftertreated at a liquor ratio of 1:10. Finally, the dyeing produced in the manner indicated is rinsed again with water, hot and cold, and dried.

A well-toned brown gabardine is obtained.

Example 2:

A fabric made of a polyester fiber / wool mixture (in a ratio of 55:45) is drawn into a jet dyeing machine, which allows isothermal dyeing in a gas stream, and then by means of a Steam / air mixture circulated, heated to 106 _° C and at the same time exposed to 200% of moisture formed by the steam condensation.

• 2 % Ammoniumacetat,
• 2 % Essigsäure(60 %ig) sowie
• 1,5 % eines Egalisierhilfsmittels auf Basis des Umsetzungsproduktes von 1 Mol Stearylamin mit 12 Mol Ethylenoxid
• eingeschleust und auf der Ware verteilt. Die Temperatur des Behandlungsbades wird dabei auf 106 _°C gehalten. Nach ca. 5 Minuten wird in gleicher Art und Weise entsprechend einer zusätzlichen Feuchtigkeitsmenge von 180 % eine wäßrige Flotte von 95 °C enthaltend
• 0,06 % des Farbstoffes Disperse Yellow 64 mit der C.I.-Nr. 47023,
• 0,87 % des Farbstoffes Disperse Blue 56 mit der C.L-Nr. 63285, und
• 1,4 % eines blauen Dispersionsfarbstoffes auf Basis eines Gemisches aus verschieden bromierten Diamino-dihydroxy-anthrachinonen mit weniger als 1 Mol Brom je Mol Farbstoff. sowie
• 0,04 % des Reaktivfarbstoffes der Formel
  
• 0,22 % des Reaktivfarbstoffes der Formel
  
  und
• 1,9 % des Reaktivfarbstoffes der Formel
  
  auf das Farbgut aufgebracht und dasselbe dann 20 Minuten bei 106 °C gefärbt.

The injector system now contains 20% more moisture in the form of water at 95 ° C

• 2% ammonium acetate,
• 2% acetic acid (60%) and
• 1.5% of a leveling agent based on the reaction product of 1 mol of stearylamine with 12 mol of ethylene oxide
• infiltrated and distributed on the goods. The temperature of the treatment bath is kept at 106 _° C. After about 5 minutes, an aqueous liquor of 95 ° C. is obtained in the same way, corresponding to an additional amount of moisture of 180%
• 0.06% of the dye Disperse Yellow 64 with the CI no. 47023,
• 0.87% of the dye Disperse Blue 56 with the CL no. 63285, and
• 1.4% of a blue disperse dye based on a mixture of differently brominated diamino-dihydroxy-anthraquinones with less than 1 mole of bromine per mole of dye. such as
• 0.04% of the reactive dye of the formula
  
• 0.22% of the reactive dye of the formula
  
  and
• 1.9% of the reactive dye of the formula
  
  applied to the dye and then dyed at 106 ° C for 20 minutes.

In the meantime, separately from the fleet cycle, 0.9% of a commercial carrier based on p- Hydroxydiphenyl emulsified in 3 times the amount of water at 60 _° C. After the 20-minute treatment period has elapsed, this emulsion is metered in via the nozzle system of the jet system and - while the paint runs several times - applied to it at 106 _° C.

After a further 30 minutes of dyeing time at 106 _° C. and subsequent draining of the dyeing liquor, the dyed goods are cooled by adding less warm water to the dyeing jet, rinsed at the same time and then treated as in Example 1.

You get a good tone-on-tone and very real navy blue dyeing of the fabric.

Claims (1)

1. A process for the batch-wise dyeing in jet-dyeing machines of textile material circulating therein in endless rope form and composed of linear polyester fibers in a blend with wool with dyes suitable for each of these fiber types by the exhaust dyeing technique, the forward feed for ihe transport of the textile material within the closed loop machine being effected via the actuation of the jet system by means of the kinetic energy of a circulating gas stream which is not inert with respect to the dyeing behavior of dyes and textile material, and at the same time the dyeing liquor being added in atomized form to this gas stream in the jet section for driving the textile material and thus, having been brought into contact with the textile material under the preselected temperature and pressure conditions, directly coming to impingement therein under fixing conditions, which comprises following the isothermal addition of the dyeing liquor containing the dyes for the two fiber types and pH-regulants by initially treating the textile material therewith at the boil or at a temperature around 106°C for 10-20 minutes only then metering the dispersion/ emulsion of a carrier into the driving gas stream, and finally completing the dyeing in the course of a further 10-30 minutes under isothermal conditions.