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EP0088997A1 - Procédé pour réaliser des effets de dévorage sur des matières textiles - Google Patents

Procédé pour réaliser des effets de dévorage sur des matières textiles Download PDF

Info

Publication number
EP0088997A1
EP0088997A1 EP83102291A EP83102291A EP0088997A1 EP 0088997 A1 EP0088997 A1 EP 0088997A1 EP 83102291 A EP83102291 A EP 83102291A EP 83102291 A EP83102291 A EP 83102291A EP 0088997 A1 EP0088997 A1 EP 0088997A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
dyes
burnout
paste
parts
teile
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP83102291A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Theo Stahl
Ulrich Dr. Bühler
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Sanofi Aventis Deutschland GmbH
Cassella Farbwerke Mainkur AG
Original Assignee
Cassella AG
Cassella Farbwerke Mainkur AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Cassella AG, Cassella Farbwerke Mainkur AG filed Critical Cassella AG
Publication of EP0088997A1 publication Critical patent/EP0088997A1/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/15—Locally discharging the dyes
    • D06P5/151—Locally discharging the dyes with acids or bases
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/12—Reserving parts of the material before dyeing or printing ; Locally decreasing dye affinity by chemical means

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for producing white or colored burn-out effects on textile materials which consist of a mixture of hydrophobic fibers and cellulose fibers, with one or more disperse dyes on the textile material for dyeing the hydrophobic fiber portion, optionally together with one or more dyes for dyeing of the cellulose portion is applied in the form of a dye liquor or printing paste and then carefully dried or dried and then a burn-out paste is printed in a pattern, the order in which the print paste and burn-out paste are printed is also reversed, and if a print paste is used, drying or intermediate drying can be omitted and the textile material can then be omitted is heat-treated at temperatures of 100 to 240 ° C., whereupon one or more of the dyes coloring the cellulose fraction are optionally fixed and the textile material is finished.
  • Actual or potential strong acids are, for example, sulfuric acid, amidosulfonic acid, sulfonic acids, such as, for example, dibutylnaphthalenesulfonic acid, sodium bisulfate, Aluminum sulfate and aluminum chloride. This burnout process can be combined with staining of the hydrophobic fiber portion and / or the cellulose portion.
  • a colorless burnout paste results in a strong deepening of color and an increase in brilliance at the printed area.
  • a burnout-resistant disperse dye is added to the burnout paste, the color of this dye is combined with that of the base disperse dye to a generally cloudy shade.
  • the fund can be used with dispersion and e.g. Reactive dye can be stained.
  • a colorless burnout paste then causes a color weakening on the printed areas; a colored burn-out paste produces the same color shade addition as when printed on a product in which only the polyester portion was pre-dyed.
  • the completely dyed-through background gives a calm appearance of the goods, but on the one hand it is not possible to achieve white burn-out effects, on the other hand, in the case of colorfully burned-out patterns, the choice of color is determined by the addition color. Clear, especially yellow, red or blue tones cannot be obtained.
  • the above-mentioned disadvantages of the known processes for producing white or colored burnout effects on textile materials which consist of a mixture of hydrophobic fibers and cellulose fibers, can be overcome if, according to the invention, the dye liquor or printing paste in the burnout process described at the outset contains one or more disperse dyes which can be etched by the burnout agent contains.
  • Dispersion dyes which can be etched by the burnout paste are those whose chromophores are destroyed by the burnout agents contained in burnout pastes and / or which are converted into forms by these burnout agents which are no longer on the hydrophobic fibers wind up.
  • Examples of dyes which can be etched in the process according to the invention are azo dyes which are wholly or predominantly in the azo form, naphthalimide dyes and certain anthraquinone dyes.
  • Monoazo dyes which can be etched in the method according to the invention are e.g. those with carbocyclic or heterocyclic diazo and / or coupling components from the series of the anilines, naphthylamines, phenols, naphthols, 5- or 6-ring heterocycles, which may optionally be gas-condensed.
  • Suitable disazo dyes are e.g. those whose central component is derived from anilines, naphthylamines or 5- or 6-ring heterocyclic amines.
  • Examples of etchable azo dyes are: C.I. Disperse Yellow 7, 23 and 68; C.I.
  • Disperse Violet 12 13, 24, 48, 58, 63 and 33; C.I Disoerse Blue79, 85, 94, 122, 125, 130, 139 148, 149, 165, 165/1, 165/2, 171, 183, 284, 287, 290, 295 and 330; C.I. Disperse Brown 1, 4/1 and 19; C.I. Disperse Green 9.
  • the dye of the formula is an example of naphthalimide dyes which can be etched in the process according to the invention. called.
  • Anthraquinone dyes which can be etched in the process according to the invention are, for example, those which or have more than one carboxylic ester group, such as the CI Disperse Blue 288 dye.
  • azo dyes which are wholly or predominantly in the azo form are preferably used as the etchable disperse dyes.
  • Acid-resistant and thus etch-resistant disperse dyes in the process according to the invention which can be combined with the etchable disperse dyes to produce multicolored designs, are, for example Anthraquinone, naphthalimide, nitro, quinaphthalone or methine dyes or dyes produced by azo coupling, which are predominantly in the hydrazone form, e.g. Azo dyes with 2-hydroxypyridone-6 derivatives as coupling components.
  • Suitable etch-resistant dyes are e.g. C.I. Disperse Yellow 63, 114, 180, 54 and 58; C.I. Disperse Orange 146 and 139; C.I. Disperse Red 60, 91, 92 and 132; C.I. Vat Red 41; C.I. Disperse Violet 35; C.I. Disperse Blue 56 and 87.
  • Suitable for dyeing the cellulose content of the mixed fiber textile material are all dyes which are known for dyeing cellulose and which do not soil the hydrophobic fiber content, for example selected reactive, substantive, vat, leuco vat ester, sulfur or development dyes, of which preferably reactive - and noun dyes are used.
  • the cellulose fraction can also be dyed before or after the burn-out process. It is convenient to wash after pre-dyeing or before post-dyeing.
  • the dyes used for dyeing the cellulose content should soil the hydrophobic fibers, especially the polyester fibers, as little as possible. This applies in particular in the production of white burnout effects.
  • Sulfur dyes for example, are particularly suitable for pre-dyeing the cellulose component, but in particular substantive and reactive dyes.
  • Sulfur, vat, leuco vat ester dyes for example, but especially noun and reactive dyes are particularly suitable for recoloring the cellulose content.
  • the dyes for the two fiber parts are preferably at the same time, ie in the course
  • suitable disperse and noun dyes preferably disperse and reactive dyes.
  • Strong acids or compounds which split off strong acids are used as the burnout agent, which cause the cellulose fibers to be destroyed in the subsequent heat treatment.
  • Suitable are, for example, sulfuric acid, amidosulfonic acid, sodium bisulfate, aluminum sulfate, aluminum chloride, dibutylnaphthalenesulfonic acid as well as p-toluenesulfonic acid, methanesulfonic acid and sulfonic acids from the range of arene mono- or disulfonic acids, alkanesulfonic acids with 1 to 8 carbon atoms, alkene sulfonic acids with 2 to 5 carbon atoms, cycloalkanesulfonic acids with 5 to 7 carbon atoms, the N, 0- S-containing five- or six-ring heterocyclic sulfonic acids.
  • substituents can optionally be substituted one or more times, and in the case of multiple substitution the substituents can be the same or different.
  • suitable substituents are: alkyl or alkoxy each having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, alkenyl having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, alkylcarbonyl having a total of up to 8 carbon atoms, optionally substituted phenylcarbonyl, optionally substituted aminocarbonyl, alkoxycarbonyl having a total up to 9 carbon atoms, phenoxycarbonyl, cyano, nitro, fluorine, chlorine, bromine, hydroxycarbonyl, aminosulfonyl, alkylsulfonyl with up to 8 carbon atoms, optionally substituted phenylsulfonyl, alkylsulfinyl with up to 8 carbon atoms, optionally substituted phenylsulfinyl, phenyl , Hydroxy or acetamino, thiocyan
  • burnout agents are the alkali metal salts of sulfonic acids, in particular the sodium or potassium salts, in combination with sulfuric acid.
  • sulfonic acids in particular the sodium or potassium salts
  • mixtures of several burnout agents can also be used. Preference is given to those burnout agents which do not attack the hydrophobic fiber fraction or only as little as possible.
  • Preferred burnout agents are sodium bisulfate, p-toluenesulfonic acid, methanesulfonic acid and alkylnaphthalenesulfonic acids, possibly in a mixture with sulfuric acid.
  • the burnout agent is printed on the fabric in the form of a burnout paste.
  • Suitable burnout pastes are all preparations which allow the aforementioned burnout agents to be applied to the tissue and which, under the application conditions, ensure that the burnout paste is dispensed as evenly as possible onto the tissue and deliver a pressure which is as sharp as possible.
  • the burnout agents are already in the preparation of Ausbrennpasten from the output component added
  • the amount of the mono- Ausbrennpasten z uotwithstandingden burnout agent increases with the cellulosic portion of the blend fabric with milder Ausbrenn discipline to increasing color depth of the base coloring and a poorer etchability of the disperse dyes and decreases with increasing activity of the burnout agent.
  • concentrations of the burnout agent in the burnout pastes of 5 to 150 g / kg, preferably 50 to 130 g / kg, are generally required.
  • concentrations of 20 to 350 g / kg, preferably 80 to 250 g / kg are normally required in order to achieve perfect burnouts with the application amounts of the burnout paste that are usually used and to etch the etchable disperse dyes to destroy.
  • the burn-out pastes also contain water, thickeners and auxiliaries (e.g. swelling agents, dispersants, fixing accelerators) and, if necessary, disperse dyes that are resistant to the burn-out agent.
  • Suitable thickeners include: starch breakdown products such as dextrin; nonionic starch derivatives such as British gum; Gums such as gum arabic; Locust bean gum, in particular seed gum ether, tragacanth; Guar derivatives, especially guar ethers, cellulose ether carboxylic acids.
  • the burnout pastes can also contain other conventional auxiliaries and additives, such as e.g. hydrotropic substances, as well as additives that promote wetting, penetration and dye absorption.
  • nonionic detergents or solubilizers which are expediently contained in the burnout pastes, such as e.g. Glycerin and / or polyglycols, such as polyethylene glycol, with an average molecular weight of 300 to 500, and / or polypropylene glycols, as described e.g. are described in DE-OS 29 51 312, or products based on N, N-dialkyl-substituted lower carbonamides, such as e.g. N, N-di-cyanoethyl-formamide, furthermore the presence of agents which prevent foaming and agents which facilitate the wash-out of the burned-out cellulose.
  • nonionic detergents or solubilizers which are expediently contained in the burnout pastes, such as e.g. Glycerin and / or polyglycols, such as polyethylene glycol, with an average molecular weight of 300 to 500, and / or polypropylene glycols, as described e.g. are described in
  • the process according to the invention is carried out on textile materials which consist of a mixture of cellulose fibers and hydrophobic fibers.
  • the hydrophobic fibers can e.g. made of polypropylene, polyacrylonitrile, polyamide, but especially of polyester.
  • suitable polyester fibers are those based on polybutylene terephthalate, poly-1,4-cyclohexylene-dimethylene terephthalate, but in particular polyethylene terephthalate, these polyesters, e.g. with a view to easier dyeability, can also be modified, for example by cocondensation of other components, e.g. other dicarboxylic acids and / or other diols.
  • the cellulose content of the blended fabric in particular the polyester / cellulose fiber blended fabric, is between 20 and 80% by weight and is limited by the strength of the fabric still present after the burnout and by the desired transparency.
  • a cellulose content of 33 to 66% by weight is preferred.
  • Such yarns are e.g. the core spun yarns, the core of which is spun from endless threads during the spinning process with cellulose fibers, or the core twist yarns, the core of which has been wrapped with the finished spun cellulose fibers. When such tissue is burned out, the endless thread appears locally.
  • the textile material can be in the form of sheets, e.g. in the form of tangled nonwovens, felt, carpets, woven, knitted or knitted sheets or pieces.
  • the textile material is expediently pretreated.
  • This pretreatment can be, for example, an alkali treatment at 50 to 110 ° C. for one hour.
  • the process according to the invention is carried out by applying one or more of the acid-etchable disperse dyes mentioned above and, if appropriate, one or more of the dyes specified above for dyeing the cellulose fraction in the form of a dye liquor or printing paste.
  • a dye liquor the textile material is impregnated, for example, in a manner known per se, for example padded or splashed.
  • the dye liquor or printing paste can also contain known conventional dyeing or printing aids, such as, for example, dispersants, wetting agents, foam suppressants and padding aids.
  • the textile material impregnated with a dye liquor is squeezed to a liquor pickup of 50 to 120 and then carefully dried in such a way that the disperse dye is not yet fixed in the hydrophobic fiber.
  • the textile materials prepared in this way are then overprinted with one of the aforementioned burn-out pastes in the desired pattern.
  • the burnout paste contains one or more of the aforementioned burnout agents and the usual additives.
  • the impregnated and printed textile materials are then subjected to, for example, 15 to 360 s, preferably 30 to 240 s, long heat treatment between 100 and 240 ° C., preferably between 150 0 and 200 ° C., being short at higher temperatures and long at lower temperatures is treated.
  • the heat is supplied by superheated steam or by hot air.
  • the heat treatment destroys the cellulose portion of the textile material at the areas printed with the burnout paste, acid-etchable disperse dyes are etched colorless, and disperse dyes resistant to the burnout agent are fixed in the hydrophobic fiber, and in the unprinted areas, base disperse dyes and optionally
  • Dyes for dyeing the cellulose portion of the fund are fixed if the padding liquor contains the chemicals required to fix the latter dye.
  • the latter dye may optionally also be used in a second operation, i.e. after the disperse dyes have been fixed, e.g. according to the two-phase process.
  • the goods are rinsed, if necessary reductively aftertreated in the usual manner, warm saponified, optionally calendered, rinsed and dried.
  • the heat treatment can also be carried out in such a way that the cellulose fibers are first burned out in the lower temperature range and then the etchable disperse dyes are etched at a higher temperature and, if appropriate, the cellulose-dyeing dyes are simultaneously fixed.
  • the cellulose portion of the textile material used can also be pre-dyed.
  • the dye liquor can additionally contain one or more disperse dyes which are resistant to the burnout agent and are therefore not destroyed by the burnout pastes.
  • the dyes can also be printed onto the textile material in the form of printing pastes and then overprinted with the burnout paste in the desired pattern.
  • a drying or intermediate drying between the two printing processes is not absolutely necessary, so that it is also possible to work wet-on-wet.
  • the textile prints are then fixed and completed as described above.
  • it is possible to add one or more disperse dyes to the color printing paste printed first which may also contain several white-etchable disperse dyes of the type mentioned, which are acid and therefore caustic resistant.
  • a burnout paste of the type mentioned is used which contains one or more disperse dyes which are stable against the burnout agent.
  • the process according to the invention can preferably also be carried out in such a way that the textile material is first printed with the burnout paste, which may contain disperse dyes which are resistant to the burnout agent, and then wet-on-wet or, after careful drying or drying, with a printing paste which Contains dyes (dyes for the cellulose portion and / or etchable and / or etch-resistant disperse dyes) is overprinted.
  • the burnout paste which may contain disperse dyes which are resistant to the burnout agent, and then wet-on-wet or, after careful drying or drying, with a printing paste which Contains dyes (dyes for the cellulose portion and / or etchable and / or etch-resistant disperse dyes) is overprinted.
  • a padding liquor or printing paste for the base coloring, which contains only one or more disperse dyes.
  • the web of material thus clogged or printed is burned out in white or, if desired, brightly colored, the base disperse dye fixing.
  • the cellulose portion of the blended fabric is dyed with the dyes that are suitable for it. The previously burned out areas where the cellulose was destroyed remain white or in the shade of the disperse dyes that are resistant to the burnout agent.
  • the disperse dyes are present in the padding liquors, printing pastes or in the burnout pastes in finely dispersed form, as is customary and known for disperse dyes.
  • the padding liquors or printing pastes are also prepared in a manner known per se by mixing the liquor or printing paste components with the necessary amount of water and liquid finely dispersed or solid redispersible settings of the dyes.
  • the dyes were used in their liquid commercial forms.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)
EP83102291A 1982-03-15 1983-03-09 Procédé pour réaliser des effets de dévorage sur des matières textiles Ceased EP0088997A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE3209329 1982-03-15
DE19823209329 DE3209329A1 (de) 1982-03-15 1982-03-15 Verfahren zur herstellung von ausbrenneffekten auf textilmaterialien

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0088997A1 true EP0088997A1 (fr) 1983-09-21

Family

ID=6158265

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP83102291A Ceased EP0088997A1 (fr) 1982-03-15 1983-03-09 Procédé pour réaliser des effets de dévorage sur des matières textiles

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US4417897A (fr)
EP (1) EP0088997A1 (fr)
JP (1) JPS58169581A (fr)
BR (1) BR8301246A (fr)
DE (1) DE3209329A1 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ITFI20110056A1 (it) * 2011-04-06 2012-10-07 Stamperia Altair S R L Procedimento per la preparazione di prodotti tessili dévoré

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US4589884A (en) * 1983-03-18 1986-05-20 Milliken Research Corporation Process for heat treating textile substrates to give colored pattern
US4680032A (en) * 1983-03-18 1987-07-14 Milliken Research Corporation Process for heat treating textile substrates to give a colored pattern
US4680034A (en) * 1983-03-28 1987-07-14 Milliken Research Corporation High contrast patterning process and product for disperse dyed polyester
US5350423A (en) * 1992-09-23 1994-09-27 Burlington Industries Inc. Fabric finishing procedure
KR100465352B1 (ko) * 2001-10-25 2005-01-13 (주)풍전티.티 부분발식가공사의 제조방법
KR20030037711A (ko) * 2001-11-05 2003-05-16 김병길 직물의 착색 번아웃 가공방법
KR100469011B1 (ko) * 2002-06-21 2005-02-02 주식회사 유상실업 폴리에스테르 섬유의 번 아웃 가공방법
US7435264B2 (en) * 2003-11-12 2008-10-14 Milliken & Company Sculptured and etched textile having shade contrast corresponding to surface etched regions
KR100691026B1 (ko) 2005-08-23 2007-03-09 (주)정인텍스타일 아이스벨벳을 포함하는 합성섬유원단의 전면 번 아웃 또는반 번 아웃 가공방법
KR100667677B1 (ko) 2006-03-29 2007-01-12 신정철 하이 파일 또는 보아 직물의 번-아웃 방법
TR200705860A3 (tr) * 2007-08-23 2008-03-21 Kuecuekcalik Tekstil Sanayi Ve Ticaret Anonim Sirketi Desenli laminasyon kumas üretim yöntemi.
TWI340778B (en) * 2007-08-28 2011-04-21 Formosa Taffeta Co Ltd Manufacturing method of fabrics with colored stereoscopic patterns and fabrics manufactured therefrom
US8974546B2 (en) * 2010-02-26 2015-03-10 Whirlpool Corporation Method for treating laundry in a clothes dryer
KR101076401B1 (ko) 2011-03-30 2011-10-25 주식회사 무창섬유 폴리에스테르계 니트직물의 번아웃가공 방법 및 폴리에스테르계 번아웃가공 니트직물
US8512420B2 (en) * 2011-08-24 2013-08-20 Poly Hd, Llc Method and dye solution for polyester fabric dyeing
US11105025B2 (en) 2018-05-29 2021-08-31 Nike, Inc. Spacer textile having tie yarns of one or more lengths
CN110318277B (zh) * 2019-05-10 2020-10-13 上海咏姿时装有限公司 一种烂花织物的制造方法

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FR966530A (fr) * 1946-05-16 1950-10-12 Sayles Finishing Plants Tissus façonnés et leurs procédés de fabrication
DE2011860A1 (de) * 1969-09-16 1971-09-30 The Ahmedabad Manufacturing & CaIi co Printing Company Ltd , Ahmedabad (Indien) Verbessertes Verfahren zur Vorbehand lung von bedruckten synthetischen Geweben

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FR966530A (fr) * 1946-05-16 1950-10-12 Sayles Finishing Plants Tissus façonnés et leurs procédés de fabrication
DE2011860A1 (de) * 1969-09-16 1971-09-30 The Ahmedabad Manufacturing & CaIi co Printing Company Ltd , Ahmedabad (Indien) Verbessertes Verfahren zur Vorbehand lung von bedruckten synthetischen Geweben

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ITFI20110056A1 (it) * 2011-04-06 2012-10-07 Stamperia Altair S R L Procedimento per la preparazione di prodotti tessili dévoré

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
US4417897A (en) 1983-11-29
BR8301246A (pt) 1983-11-22
JPS58169581A (ja) 1983-10-06
DE3209329A1 (de) 1983-09-15

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