DE29520745U1 - Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical emulsions - Google Patents

Description

Henkel KGaA

TTP Patent Division/Dr.Fabry 454/64- APG/COS
8 January 1996

Utility model application

H2121U
"Cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical emulsions"

Field of invention

The invention relates to cosmetic and pharmaceutical emulsions with improved stability, containing alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty alcohols and betaines in selected mixing ratios.

State of the art

The use of mixtures of alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty alcohols and optionally polyglucose for the production of emulsions is known from European patent specification EP-Bl 0 553 241 (SEPPIC). According to the teaching of international patent application WO 92/07543 (Henkel), alkyl oligoglucosides can also be used together with fatty alcohols and partial glycerides as cosmetic emulsifiers.

In addition to oils, surfactants are also often used to produce cosmetic and pharmaceutical products such as creams, lotions or ointments. It turns out that the resulting emulsions are stable at room temperature and have a sufficiently high viscosity, but that they gradually break down during longer storage periods, especially when exposed to high temperatures. Thin, liquid products are produced and in a number of cases separation can also occur.

The object of the invention was therefore to provide emulsions for cosmetic or pharmaceutical applications based on alkyl oligoglucoside/fatty alcohol mixtures for

H2Y2WS

to provide products that are free from the disadvantages of the state of the art described above, i.e. that are stable in storage over long periods even when exposed to high temperatures.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations, containing - based on the emulsifier content -

(a) 10 to 50 wt.% C _I6 -C ₂₂ alkyl oligoglucosides,

(b) 50 to 90 wt.% C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ -feIIalcohols and

(c) 0.1 to 10 wt.% betaines,

provided that the quantities add up to 100% by weight.

Surprisingly, it was found that a mixture of alkyl oligoglucosides and fatty alcohols within defined application ratios together with selected surfactants of the betaine type produce emulsions that are storage-stable, i.e. whose viscosity does not change even after prolonged storage at elevated temperatures. The invention includes the finding that the selection of the surfactant component is crucial for the stability of the emulsions, since with other surfactants only emulsions of significantly lower stability are obtained.

Alkyl oligoglucosides

Alkyl oligoglucosides are known nonionic surfactants that follow the formula (I),
O (I)

in which R is an alkyl radical having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a glucose radical and ρ is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. As representatives of the extensive literature, reference is made here to the documents EP-Al-O 301 298 and WO 90/03977 . The index number ρ in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono-

and oligoglycosides and represents a number between 1 and 10. While ρ in a given compound must always be an integer and can assume the values ρ = 1 to 6, the value ρ for a specific alkyl oligoglucoside is an analytically determined calculated value that is usually a fractional number. Alkyl oligoglucosides with an average degree of oligomerization ρ of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. From an application point of view, alkyl oligoglucosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl radical R ¹ can be derived from primary alcohols with 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Typical examples are alkyl oligoglucosides based on cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and/or behenyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof. Alkyl oligoglucosides derived from fatty alcohols with 16 to 18 carbon atoms, such as cetearyl alcohol in particular, are preferably used.

Fatty alcohols

Fatty alcohols are understood to mean primary aliphatic alcohols of formula (II),

R ² OH (II)

in which R is an aliphatic, linear or branched alkyl radical with 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Typical examples are cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol as well as technical mixtures thereof, which arise, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils. Technical mixtures with 16 to 18 carbon atoms, such as cetearyl alcohol in particular, are preferred.

For the purposes of the invention, it is particularly advantageous to use mixtures of alkyl oligoglucosides and fatty alcohols which have identical alkyl radicals, for example mixtures of cetearyl oligoglucosides and cetearyl alcohol.

H2121\J4 . ,

Betaine

Betaines are well-known surfactants that are mainly produced by carboxyalkylation, preferably carboxymethylation, of amine compounds. The starting materials are preferably condensed with halogen carboxylic acids or their salts, in particular with sodium chloroacetate, whereby one mole of salt is formed per mole of betaine. The addition of unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid is also possible. For the nomenclature and in particular for the distinction between betaines and "real" amphoteric surfactants, see the article by U.Ploog in Seifen-Öle-Fette-Wachse, 198 . 373 (1982) . Further overviews on this topic can be found, for example, by A.O'Lennick et al. in HAPPI, Nov. 70 (1986), S.Holzman et al. in Tens. Det. 21, 309 (1986), R.Bibo et al. in Soap Cosm. Chem. Spec. Apr. 46 (1990) and P.Ellis et al. in Euro Cosm. 1,14 (1994).

Examples of suitable betaines are the carboxyalkylation products of secondary and especially tertiary amines which follow the formula (III) ,

R ³ -N-(CH ₂ ) _n COOX (III)

in which R stands for alkyl and/or alkenyl radicals having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R stands for hydrogen or alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R stands for alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, η stands for numbers from 1 to 6 and X stands for an alkali and/or alkaline earth metal or ammonium. Typical examples are the carboxymethylation products of hexylmethylamine, hexyldimethylamine, octyldimethylamine, decyldimethylamine, dodecylmethylamine, dodecyldimethylamine, dodecylethylmethylamine, C ₁₂ /i4-cocoalkyldimethylamine, myristyldimethylamine, cetyldimethylamine, stearyldimethylamine, stearylethylmethylamine, oleyldimethylamine, C _16/ i _g -tallowalkyldimethylamine and technical mixtures thereof.

Furthermore, carboxyalkylation products of amidoamines which follow the formula (IV) are also considered,

H2121

^R4

R ⁶ CO-NH-(CH ₂ ) _m -N-(CH2) _n COOX

^IR5

(IV)

in which R CO is an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 or 1 to 3 double bonds, m is a number from 1 to 3 and R , R ⁵ , η and X have the meanings given above. Typical examples are reaction products of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, namely caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, with N,N-dimethylaminoethylamine, ν,ν-dimethylaminopropylamine, ν,ν-diethylaminoethylamine and N,N-diethylaminopropylamine, which are condensed with sodium chloroacetate. The use of a condensation product of C _g/1 g coconut fatty acid N,N-dimethylaminopropylamide with sodium chloroacetate is preferred.

Commercial applicability

The emulsions according to the invention are characterized by a high storage stability even under temperature stress. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the emulsions contain - based on the emulsifier content - 20 to 40% by weight of alkyl oligoglucosides, 60 to 80% by weight of fatty alcohols and 5 to 8% by weight of betaines. The non-aqueous portion of the emulsions, which is largely made up of the emulsifier and oil content and generally corresponds to the solids content, is usually 5 to 95 and preferably 15 to 75% by weight. Conversely, this means that the emulsions can contain 5 to 95 and preferably 25 to 85% by weight of water, depending on whether lotions with a comparatively low viscosity or creams and ointments with a high viscosity are to be produced.

Oil bodies

Examples of oil components that can be considered are Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₀ fatty acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols, esters of branched C ₆ -C ₁₃ carboxylic acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₁₈ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as dimerdiol or trimerdiol) and/or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, Guerbet carbonates, dialkyl ethers and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons. The proportion of oil bodies in the non-aqueous portion of the emulsions can be 5 to 99 and preferably 10 to 75% by weight

Auxiliaries and additives

The emulsions can be used as skin care products, such as day creams, night creams, care creams, nourishing creams, body lotions, ointments and the like and can contain oil components, emulsifiers, superfatting agents, fats, waxes, stabilizers, biogenic active ingredients, glycerin, preservatives, colorants and fragrances as additional auxiliary and additive substances.

Suitable non-ionic OAV co-emulsifiers are (a1) addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group; (a2) C ₁₂ /g fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol; (a3) glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products; (a4) addition products of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide to castor oil and/or hardened castor oil; (a5) polyol and in particular polyglycerol esters such as polyglycerol polyricinoleate or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate. Mixtures of compounds from several of these substance classes are also suitable. The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters as well as sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or to castor oil are known, commercially available

Products are homolog mixtures whose average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. C ₁₂ Zig fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide with glycerin are known from DE-PS 20 24 051 as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

The following can be considered as W/O co-emulsifiers : (bl) addition products of 2 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and/or hardened castor oil; (b2) partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C ₁₂ /22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerin, polyglycerin, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol) and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose); (b3) trialkyl phosphates; ( QA ) wool wax alcohols; (b5) polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives; (b6) mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE-PS 11 65 574 and (b7) polyalkylene glycols.

The proportion of emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers in the non-aqueous portion of the emulsions can be 0.1 to 10 and preferably 1 to 7 wt.%.

Substances such as polyethoxylated lanolin derivatives, lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents , the latter also serving as foam stabilizers. Typical examples of fats are glycerides, while waxes include beeswax, paraffin wax or micro waxes, possibly in combination with hydrophilic waxes, e.g. cetylstearyl alcohol. Metal salts of fatty acids such as magnesium, aluminum and/or zinc stearate can be used as stabilizers . Biogenic active ingredients include plant extracts and vitamin complexes. Suitable preservatives include phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid. Pearlescent agents include glycol distearic acid esters such as ethylene glycol distearate, but also fatty acid monoglycol esters. Substances suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes can be used as dyes , as listed, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" of the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106 . These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the entire mixture.

Typical emulsions have compositions as shown in Table 1 (provided that the figures add up to 100% by weight).

Table &idiag;

Typical composition of lotions and creams

component Lotion [wt.%j 1-2 Cream [% by weight] 1-3 Alky Ipo Iy glucoside 2-3 2-6 Fatty alcohols 0.1 - 0.5 0.1-0.5 Betaine 25-50 25-50 Oil body 1-5 1-5 Auxiliaries and additives 50-70 25 to 50 Water

The total proportion of auxiliary and additive substances can be 1 to 10, preferably 2 to 5 wt.% based on the agent. The agent can be produced in a manner known per se, i.e. for example by hot, hot-hot/cold or PIT emulsification. This is a purely mechanical process; a chemical reaction does not take place.

Examples

Emulsions were prepared containing 35% by weight of oil body (Cl to C3), 5% by weight of emulsifier/surfactant mixture and up to 100% by weight of water. The emulsions were prepared using the PIT method, i.e. above the phase inversion temperature. Formulations R1 and R2 contain the combination of components Al to A3 and are in accordance with the invention. Formulations R3 to R8 contain the emulsifier combination Al and A2, but a surfactant not in accordance with the invention (B1 to B6) and are used for comparison. The viscosity of the samples was determined using the Brookfield method in an RVF viscometer (20 rpm, spindle 1) immediately and after storage for 7 days at 20 or 40 ^° C. The results are summarized in Table 2.

Substances used (CTFA nomenclature, where possible)

A1) Hexadecyl Polyglucose

A2) Hexadecyl Alcohol

A3) Cocoyl Betaine

BI) Dodecylbenzenesulfonate sodium salt

B2) Octadecenesulfonate sodium salt

B3) a-Sulfotalfatty acid methyl ester sodium salt

B4) secondary hexadecanesulfonate sodium salt

B5) Mono/Dilauryl Phosphate Mono/Di-Sodium Salt

B6) Ceteareth-10

Cl) Dicapryl Ether

C2) Decyl Oleate

C3) Almond oil

Table 2

Viscosity and storage stability (quantities as % by weight)

Components Rl 1.9 R2 2.25 R3 1.9 R4 1.9 R5 1.9 100 R6 1.9 R7 1.9 R8 1.9 Al 2.85 2.25 2.85 2.85 2.85 2.85 2.85 2.85 A2 0.25 0.5 - - - 12,000 - - - A3 - - 0.5 - - 8,000 - - - Bl - - - 0.5 - 2,500 - - - B2 - - - - 0.5 - - - B3 - - - - - 0.5 - - B4 - - - - - - 0.5 - B5 - - - - - - - '0.5 B6 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 Cl 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 C2 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 C3 ad Water viscosity
[fmPas] 10,000 ,000 10,000 ,000 ,000 ,000 ,000 - immediately 10,000 11 ,000 7,800 10 .800 11 .500 10 ,000 10 ,000 -after 7d,20°C 10,000 11 ,000 4,500 6 ,000 8th ,000 9 .500 9 ,000 -after 7d,40°C 11 3 2 1 1

It can be seen that storage-stable emulsions can only be obtained using the three-combination according to the invention, i.e. using the selected betaine surfactants.

Claims (8)

Protection claims 1. Cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations containing - based on the emulsifier content - (a) 10 to 50 wt.% C^-C^-alkyl oligoglucosides, (b) 50 to 90 wt.% C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and (c) 0.1 to 10 wt.% betaines, provided that the quantities add up to 100% by weight. 2. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain alkyl oligoglucosides of the formula (I), R ¹ O-[G] _n (I) in which R ¹ is a linear, saturated alkyl radical having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a glucose radical and ρ is a number in the range from 1 to 10. 3. Preparations according to claim 2, characterized in that they contain fatty alcohols of the formula (II), R ² OH (II) in which R ² stands for an aliphatic, linear or branched alkyl radical having 16 to 22 carbon atoms. 4. Preparations according to claims 1 to 3, characterized in that they contain betaines of the formula (IH), ^R4 R ³ -N-(CH ₂ ) _n COOX (III) ^R5 H2121U 12 in which R ³ stands for alkyl and/or alkenyl radicals having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ⁴ stands for hydrogen or alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R ⁵ stands for alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, η stands for numbers from 1 to 6 and X stands for an alkali and/or alkaline earth metal or ammonium. 5. Preparations according to claims 1 to 4, characterized in that they contain betaines of the formula (IV), ^R4 R ⁶ CO-NH-(CH ₂ ) _m -N-(CH ₂ ) _n COOX (IV) ^R5 in which R CO represents an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and O or 1 to 3 double bonds, m represents numbers from 1 to 3 and R , R , η and X have the meanings given above. 6. Emulsions according to claims 1 to 5, characterized in that they contain oil bodies which are selected from the group formed by Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₀ fatty acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂ o fatty alcohols, esters of branched C ₆ -C ₁₃ CaT-carboxylic acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂ o fatty alcohols, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₁₁ fatty acids with branched alcohols, esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, Guerbet carbonates, dialkyl ethers and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons.. 7. Emulsions according to claims 1 to 6, characterized in that they have a non-aqueous content of 5 to 95 wt.%. 8. Emulsions according to claims 1 to 7, characterized in that they have an emulsifier content of 0.1 to 10 wt.% - based on the non-aqueous portion.