DE29515012U1 - Means for permanent shaping of human hair - Google Patents

Description

α-16/95|/

Agents for the permanent deformation of human hair

The present invention relates to an agent for shaping human hair, i.e. a permanent wave agent which has an excellent wave effect, in particular produces an even permanent wave with elastic curls and exceptionally good combability, but has no damaging effect on the hair structure even after repeated use and produces an expressive hair shine.

As is well known, perming requires two treatment steps:

The reductive cleavage of the cystine disulfide bridges of the hair by the action of a reducing agent and the subsequent neutralization or fixation by applying an oxidizing agent, which restores the cystine disulfide bridges.

The reducing agent predominantly used today is still thioglycolic acid, especially as the ammonium salt, although numerous other thio compounds have been proposed for this purpose but have not been adopted in practice.

The compositions containing thioglycolate are usually used at a pH value between 8 and 10, in particular 8.5 to 9.5, which can lead to hair damage if used repeatedly and close together.

Attempts have already been made to overcome these disadvantages by creating so-called "acidic perms" whose application pH is around 6.8 to 7.8, i.e. around neutral. The reducing agent most commonly used in these compositions is thioglycolic acid monoglycerol ester. However, it has been shown that this substance has a skin-irritating, particularly sensitizing, effect on some users, so this solution is not optimal either.

It has now been found that these disadvantages can be overcome and a permanent wave agent based on at least one reducing thio compound, which has a uniform wave effect and does not damage the hair structure in any way, but rather gives the permanently waved hair shine and exceptionally good combability, can be produced by adding to this agent 0.01 to 2.5% by weight, in particular 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total amount of the agent, of the unsaponifiable constituents of at least one vegetable oil, which contain at least 20, preferably at least 25% by weight of phytosterols.

Particularly preferred is a range of about 20 to about 40, in particular about 30 wt.% phytosterol, based on the unsaponifiable components of the vegetable oil or a mixture of vegetable oils used.

The unsaponifiable components of these oils used according to the invention preferably contain about 30 to about 60% _, in particular 40 to about 55%, e.g. 50% by weight of triglycerides and other components.

Suitable oils whose unsaponifiable components are used are, in particular, avocado oil, the unsaponifiable part of which is known under the trade name Avocadin®, sesame oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, evening primrose oil, jojoba oil, castor oil or olive or soybean oil.

The permanent wave agents according to the invention contain at least one reducing thio compound. Thioglycolic acid and thiolactic acid and their salts, in particular the ammonium and ethanolamine salts, are preferred.

Other thio compounds that can be used are in particular cysteine or its hydrochloride, monocysteine, cysteamine, N-acetylcysteine, thioglycerin, ethanediol monothioglycolate, 1,2-propylene-

glycol monothioglycolate (cf. also WO-A 93/1791), 1,3-propanediol monothioglycolate or the resulting isomer mixture, 1,3-butanediol and 1,4-butanediol monothioglycolate or their isomer mixtures, ethanediol monothiolactate, 1,2-propanediol and 1,3-propanediol monothiolactate and their isomer mixtures, 1,3-butanediol and 1,4-butanediol monothiolactate and their isomer mixtures, polyethylene glycol such as di-, tri- and tetraethylene glycol monothioglycolates and monothiolactates, polypropylene glycol such as di-, tri- and tetrapropylene glycol monothiolactates and monothioglycolates, glycerol monothiolactates and others Thio acids and their esters and mixtures thereof.

The total content of reducing agents in the compositions according to the invention is usually 2.5 to about 15% by weight, calculated on free thioglycolic acid as a reference substance.

The permanent wave preparations containing reducing agents can, if necessary, contain alkalizing agents. The amount depends on the reducing agent and the desired pH value of the composition. Preferably, the reducing agent composition contains about 0.1 to about 5, in particular about 0.5 to about 2.5% by weight of the same.

Preferred alkalizing agents within the scope of the invention are ammonium carbamate, ammonia and/or ammonium (bi)carbonate. The aim is to set a pH value in the range between about 6.5 and about 9.5, preferably about 7 to 8.5.

.".♦". .".&Ggr;" &Agr;-16/95

The permanent wave agents used according to the invention preferably also contain surfactants. The proportion of these is about 0.1 to about 10, in particular about 1 to about 5% by weight of the composition containing the reducing agent.

The surfactants used in both the reducing agent compositions and the fixing agents are preferably the known anionic products, which may also be used in combination with non-ionic surfactants.

Suitable anionic surfactants are in particular the well-known alkyl ether sulfates and carboxylic acids, especially in the form of their alkali salts, as well as protein-fatty acid condensates.

Suitable non-ionic surfactants are in particular Cs alcohol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid alkanolamides, amine oxides and especially Cg-Cig-alkyl polyglucosides.

Amphoteric surfactants such as the well-known betaines and amidobetaines as well as, especially in cationic fixations, cation-active surfactants such as quaternary ammonium compounds can also be used.

Another desirable component of the reducing agent compositions used according to the invention is a C3-C5 alkanediol or its ether, in particular mono-Ci-C3 alkyl ether.

Preferred substances in this context are 1,2- and 1,3-propanediol, l-methoxypropanol(-2), l-ethoxypropanol(-2), 1,3- and 1,4-butanediol, diethylene glycol and its monomethyl and monoethyl ethers as well as dipropylene glycol and its monomethyl and monoethyl ethers.

The proportion of these diols is preferably between 0.5 and 30, preferably about 1 to about 15, in particular about 5 to about 10 wt.% of the reducing agent composition.

In addition to the Cs-C6-alkanediols or their ethers, monoalcohols such as ethanol, propanol-1, propanol-2 and polyalcohols such as glycerin and hexanetriol, ethyl carbitol, benzyl alcohol, benzyloxyethanol and propylene carbonate (4-methyll,3-dioxolan-2-one), N-alkylpyrrolidones and urea can also be used.

Particularly preferred additional components are anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymers, in particular cationic polymers, preferably in an amount of about 0.25 to about 5, in particular about 0.5 to 2.5 wt.% of the total composition of the waving agent.

Suitable polymers are in particular those of the type "polyquaternium" according to the "CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary", 4th Ed.

The agents used according to the invention can of course contain all substances that are usual in permanent wave agents, a detailed list of which is omitted here, and can be in the form of (aqueous) solutions, emulsions, creams, foams, etc.

To avoid repetition, reference is made to the state of the art as described, for example, in "Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry", Vol. A12 (1986), pp. 588 to 591, and in particular in the monograph by K. Schrader, "Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika", 2nd edition (1989, Hüthig-Verlag), pp. 823 to 840, and in the review article by D. Hollenberg et al. in "Seifen-Öle-Fette-Wachse" 117 (1991), pp. 81 - 87.

The compositions and individual components disclosed therein, to which express reference is made, can also be used within the scope of the present invention.

If desired, a pretreatment agent can be applied before the reducing agent is applied, as described, for example, in DE-A 37 40 926. After the

After applying this pre-treatment agent, the hair is wound up and the reducing agent composition is applied. After about 15 to 30 minutes of exposure and rinsing, the hair is fixed with treatment using the usual peroxide or bromate compositions that are well known in the art.

Likewise, a known intermediate treatment can of course be carried out between the reduction and neutralization phases.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention.

··· ·· 9 ·· ·· Ammonium thioglycolate (61%) ··: •
··· example 1 Ammonium hydrogen carbonate Solution Chlorophylline Pro te inhydroIlysate 21 ,60 (wt.%) Cocoamidopropyl betaine 5 ,00 1,2-Propanediol 0 ,02 Laureth-23 0 ,40 Oleth-5 0 ,50 Avocadin® 2 ,00 Perfume oil 1 ,00 Water <a 0 ,50 adjusted to pH 8.5 with NH3. 0 ,20 0 ,40 100 ,00

The perm was done by applying the product to the hair wound on curlers for 20 to 30 minutes, rinsing and then fixing with the following composition:

Hydrogen peroxide 2.5 (wt.%)

Cetylstearyl alcohol 2.0

Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 1.2

Ci 2~C]_4-Alkylpolyglycol ether 1.0

Stabilizer, perfume oil q.s.

Water @ 100.0

&bull; I

The result was shiny, elastically deformed, easy-to-comb hair; skin irritation was not observed even after repeated use.

Omitting the avocado led to a less elastic, somewhat dull perm with impaired combability, which was clearly visible in the half-side test.

Example 2

gel

Ammonium thioglycolate (61%) 20.0 (wt.%)

Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 3.5

Cationic polymer ^ ₇ 5

(Polyguaternium-2)

Cs-CiQ-Ä-lky lpolyglucos id °' ⁶

(PD: ~ 1.4)

Quaternium-18 ■ 0.1

Myristyl alcohol 0.7

Oleyl alcohol 0.2

Paraffin oil 0.8

Bisabolol 0.1

Unsaponifiable components of °' ⁴

Avocado oil (~ 30% phytosterol;
~ 50 % triglycerides)

Ceteareth-25 0.8

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.6

Laureth-23 0.6

Perfume oil 0.3

Water @ 100.0 with NH3 adjusted to pH 8.2

,: .". .".. J J ··&ldquor; A-16/95

A permanent wave with a similar structure was obtained as with the composition according to Example 1.

Example 3

cream

Ammonium tetraglycolate (61%) Ammonium hydrogen carbonate

Cationic polymer (polyquaternium-4)

Polyoxyethylene(5)stearyl stearate Steareth-21

Paraffin oil

Polyoxyethylene(30)sorbitol Almond oil

Unsaponifiable components of avocado oil (~ 30 % phytosterol)

Tocopherol acetate

Perfume oil

Water

adjusted to pH 8.8 with NH3.

18 ,0 (wt.%) 2 ,5 O ,2 4 /0 2 /0 3 ,0 3 ,0 1 ,0 1 (JI O ,5 O. ,4 @ 100,

· α-16/95

&bull; ■··

· 1 rf *

··· &diams;· 12 ··

Example 4

Two-phase product (neutral perm) Part A:

Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 4.5

ethanol 0.5

Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether 1.0

Cationic polymer (polyquaternium-22) 1.0

Laureth-23 1.0

Oleth-5 0.5

Unsaponifiable components of avocado oil °' ²

(~ 30 % phytosterol; ~ 50 % triglycerides)

Water @ 72.2

adjusted with NH3 to pH 8.4

Part B:

Ammonium thioglycolate, 70% 18.5 (g) Thiolactic acid 2.0

Cysteine hydrochloride _x H2O 3.0

1,2-Propanediol 0.5

Water @ 27.8 adjusted with NH3 to pH 5.55.

The partial compositions A and B were introduced separately into a known two-chamber container and combined immediately before application to the hair by destroying the partition.

A product with a pH of 7.45 was obtained.

After the usual perm treatment, intermediate treatment and fixation, an elastic perm was achieved. The treated hair had a bright shine and was easy to comb.

No skin irritation or sensitization occurred.

Claims (5)

A-16/95L/ Schuf,?- claims 1. Agent for the permanent shaping of human hair, containing in an aqueous base at least one reducing thio compound and 0.01 to 2.5% by weight, calculated on the total composition of the agent, of the unsaponifiable components of at least one vegetable oil with a content of at least 20% by weight of phytosterol. 2. Agent according to claim 1, containing 0.05 to 1% by weight of the unsaponifiable constituents of at least one vegetable oil containing at least 25% by weight of phytosterol. 3. Agent according to claim 1 and/or 2, characterized in that the unsaponifiable components of the vegetable oil contain at least 50% by weight of triglycerides. 4. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains the unsaponifiable fraction of avocado oil. 5. Agent according to one or more of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains 0.25 to 5% by weight, calculated on the total composition of the agent, of at least one cationic polymer.