DE2614283A1 - METHOD OF MACHINE KNITTING A ONE-PIECE CLOTHING BLANK - Google Patents

Description

Patent attorney Dipl.-Ing. Rudolf mode

REUTLINGEN HINDENBURGSTRASSE65 TELEPHONE (O7121) 34718

«LOU283

P 2762

company

H. Stoll & Co.

Stollweg 1

7410 Reutlingen

Method of machine knitting

a one-piece garment blank

The invention relates to a method for machine Knitting a one-piece garment blank in the desired final shape of the individual sections of the item of clothing and with wales running in the longitudinal direction of the item of clothing, and the garment blanks manufactured according to this process

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About the large amount of work and the waste of knitted garments when assembling knitted garments to lower, proposals have already been made, the knitted pieces in a provided Produce the shape of the cut on knitting machines. So it is already known on a flat knitting machine Manufacture front parts, back parts and sleeve parts individually and separately from one another and during the knitting process these parts by corresponding switching on or off of edge needles To further or reduce a desired outline shape · These parts then have to go through Sewing to be connected «, this procedure has the disadvantage that continuous patterns between the individual and subsequently to be connected to each other Knitted parts are practically impossible · In any case, are at the connecting seams Pattern cracks cannot be avoided. Also in this process is the capacity utilization of the knitting machines limited"

It is also already known to manufacture knitted garments in one piece. The DT-OS 1 410 298 shows such a method in which the one-piece

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Garment blank is created transversely to the knitting direction of the machine. Thus, the wales extend in an unusual direction, resulting in knitted garments that look fashionable unacceptable in character. In addition, this method also has the disadvantage that it is the Machine capacity can only be used very poorly and extensive reworking on the knitted piece blank makes necessary.

Another method is from the laid-open documents 2 119 181, 2 257 333, 2 259 973, 2 305 255, 2 312 672 and 2 504 028 can be seen. With this one Processes are all sections of a garment, including the sleeves, although on one Piece made, but the manufacture of the sleeve sections is not carried out at the same time as the body sections of the garment. This results in poor production performance. Ss exists also here the disadvantage that no continuous patterning of all knitted parts is possible and that in the subsequent assembly still a relatively large proportion of sewing work to complete the Garment arises because the sleeve sections and the collar are sewn and the back section and sewing the front panels together

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have to. In addition, a large part of the edges of the knitted fabric must are sewn to achieve a tight knit beginning. Another disadvantage "consists in the fact that the process sometimes makes expensive special machines necessary and when knitting some of the needles over a long period of time while holding the stitches to the knitting process must be withdrawn.

The invention is based on the object of a method for form-fitting and one-piece machine Knitting a garment blank afterwards with little assembly work into one Garment can be finished to create in which the capacity of a knitting machine is optimally used, so that a noticeably larger production of garment blanks can be achieved per unit of time than is the case with previously known methods.

The object is achieved by a method of the type mentioned in that the Knitting process on all outer portions of the garment blank, for example one Back section, two sleeve sections and two

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Front halves forming sections, at the end of the garment distant from the neck with a fixed beginning uses and these outer sections at the same time until reaching the arm base height of the garment be produced that the subsequent and tapering shoulder portion up to the collar base of the garment blank by continuously intermeshing the outer section areas corresponding to a desired course of the transitions between these areas in one piece with continuous Rows of stitches is knitted, and that the collar section is then knitted in one or more parts will.

The method according to the invention has the great one Advantage that the sleeve parts at the same time with the adjoining back part and front part sections of the one-piece garment blank are knitted and all these parts with the with them usual fixed beginnings can be provided. The production of the tapered to the collar base Shoulder section in one piece with continuous rows of stitches has the great advantage that in this Area a continuous pattern is made possible and the finished garment in this area

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no connecting seams interrupting a pattern, but knitted transitions between the individual ones Areas. The needle capacity of the one required to make the garment blank The knitting area of the machine can be optimally used «. For garment blanks for sleeveless Articles of clothing or for articles of clothing with sleeves that are the same length as the adjoining back part or the adjoining front parts of the garment, the garment blank starting from a continuous solid beginning in one piece until reaching the arm base height and then continue to be knitted in one piece by intermeshing in the shoulder section, and the garment sections comprising the back, the front halves and optionally the sleeves can then be completed by cutting open the one-piece starting part of the garment can be obtained. In a preferred form of the process, which also includes the simultaneous Manufacture of sleeves with opposite the back section or the front halves Allowing different lengths, the outer portions of the garment blank are around

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a thread guide width and, if necessary, additionally by that for an increase in width of an outer section required distance separated from each other and starting with solid edges on a knitting machine In order to achieve a greater length of the sleeve sections, the knitting process is produced in the other outer sections of the garment blank individually in rows interrupted several times. So there are only a few needles when knitting the individual outer sections arranged side by side at the same time of the garment blank is not involved in the knitting process. Also, no needles are used for a long time held stitches immobilized, as is the case with known methods. That way becomes a achieved very high productivity of the knitting machines used, with no special machines required are.

The method according to the invention can be carried out on any knitting machine which has at least one Needle bed and a counter bar to this needle bed, which stitch receiving elements for hanging of meshes and which can be moved opposite the needle bed »A second Needle bed with transfer needles, transfer sinkers or deckers are used. Accordingly, the procedure can, for example

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be produced on flat knitting machines, which are provided with a single needle bed and a counter bar, or with standard double bed knitting machines in V-bed design or in the design as left / left machines. No machines are required in which more than two needle beds or needle beds divided into several parts that can be adjusted in different directions would have to be present _{or the like}

The intermeshing of the outer sections in the According to the invention, the shoulder section is created by transferring all of the stitches at least one outer Section on the mesh receiving elements of the Opposite bar, subsequent parallel displacement of the opposite bar by a desired gradient a transition between adjacent outer sections corresponding number of needle pitches and then transferring all loops back onto the needles of the needle bed, wherein a Interlocking the outer portions alternately from one side and the other of the garment blank by alternately moving the opposing bar in one and the other direction

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he follows. The shoulder section which tapers towards the collar section is thus produced not according to the traditional type of diminishing, by merely adding to the outer edge of the garment blank successively needles are withdrawn from the knitting process. The above-described intermeshing of the Continuations of the outer portions of the garment blank results in the one-piece shoulder portion the taper at any desired transition area within the shoulder portion and accordingly an arbitrarily shaped transition curve, thus allowing a wide range of variation in the inner one Shaping of the shoulder section with continuous rows of stitches and, if desired, continuous Patterning without the need for subsequent cutting or the application of darts in addition to this shape or the like would be required «So in a garment blank, for example, a constant width of the continuation of the back section areas and the front half areas in the one-piece and tapered shoulder portion of the garment blank, the Sleeve section areas by alternating rows in the adjacent front half area

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and tapers in the back portion area towards the collar portion. On the other hand, it is used for a clothing blank desired that the continuations of all outer section areas in the shoulder section to the collar section rejuvenate, this is done by an evenly distributed, row-wise alternating shaping into one another achieved by at least two section areas at the same time.

The rational knitting method according to the invention results in a garment blank that is attached to a Place is open, preferably on the front or back of the garment · It is suitable It is therefore particularly suitable for the production of items of clothing that are open on their front side. The advantages The process also have an effect on the production of closed items of clothing, such as sweaters ausο In this case, a one-piece garment blank with the back part and the two sleeve parts together with a separate blank for the front of the sweater.

Below are several according to the method according to Garment blanks made of the invention and the garments made from them explained in more detail using the accompanying drawing «

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Show in detail:

Fig. 1 shows a first embodiment

a one-piece garment blank;

Fig. 1a is a front view of one of the

Garment blank according to FIG. Cardigan manufactured;

Fig. 2 shows a second embodiment

a garment blank;

Figo 2a is a front view of one of the

Garment blank according to FIG. Cardigan manufactured;

3 shows a third embodiment

a garment blank;

3a is a front view of one of one

Garment blank according to Fig. Manufactured cardigan with short Sleeves;

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4 shows a fourth embodiment

a garment blank;

Fig. 4a is a front view of one of the

Garment blank according to FIG. 4 manufactured knitted jacket;

5 shows two for the manufacture of a sweater

Garment blanks serving with long sleeves before assembly.

The garment blank shown in Fig. 1 is on a conventional flat knitting machine with two needle beds made in one piece as a single or double-sided knitted fabric. It has five outer sections on, namely a back section 11, two sleeve sections 12 and 13 and two front part sections 14 and All five outer sections of the garment blank begin with fixed initial rows 16 and one subsequent so-called patent margin 17. All five outer knitted parts are made together with the fixed starting rows 16 and are started at the same time next to each other and separated from each other with fixed margins up to Arm attachment 18 knitted. The two sleeve sections 12 and 12 are longer than the back section 11 and the front part sections 14 and 15 therefore have more courses

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on. As "has already been mentioned at the beginning, this is done by repeating this individually in rows Interrupting the knitting process in sections 11, 14 and 15 reached so that the arm attachment 18 is achieved simultaneously in all five sections.

A one-piece shoulder section 19 is knitted from the arm base 18 with continuous rows of stitches, which can be divided into the five areas 19/1, 19/2, 19/3, 19/4 and 19/5. The area 19/1 forms the continuation of the outer back section 11, the areas 19/2 and 19/3 form the continuations the outer sleeve sections 12 and 13, and the two areas 19/4 and 19/5 of the shoulder section 19 form the continuation of the outer front half sections 14 and 15 of the knitted piece blank. As the shoulder portion 19 is knitted, there is a progressive decrease in the width of the shoulder portion areas 19/2 and 19/3 by forming this area alternately in rows in the adjacent front half area 19/4 or 19/5 and the adjacent back section area 19/1 caused the interlocking takes place in the manner mentioned at the outset by hanging meshes of several areas onto the mesh receiving members the opposing bar, subsequent relocation

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the opposite bar in one direction by a desired tapering step and hanging the slung back Stitches on the needles of the needle bed. For example, nesting can begin with the meshes of the areas 19/2, 19/1, 19/3 and 19/5 are transferred together to the opposite bar that is then shifted in the direction of the area 19/4, then the transferred stitches are hung back, whereby a part of the subsequent knitting the transition between the areas 19/2 and 19/4 of the shoulder section, entered with dotted lines 19 is achieved · The stitches in areas 19/4, 19/2, 19/1 and 19/3 and an offset of the opposing bar in the direction of the area 19/5, whereby after the Hanging back the stitches a part of the transition 21 is reached. The other two transitions 22 and can be passed through by transferring the stitches in areas 19/4 and 19/2 and molding them into areas 19/1 or a transfer of the stitches of the areas 19/5 and 19/3 and forming in the area 19/1. The succession the individual deformation steps can be arbitrary and with a view to a desired course of the transitions 20-23, which do not have to run in a straight line.

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After the shoulder section 19 has been completed, the collar 24 of the garment blank 10 becomes in Form of three individual collar sections 24/1, 24/2 and 24/3 knitted on at the same time · The edges of the Collar sections 24 / 1-24 / 3 are then provided with a fixed edge by sewing. All or only a part of the sections of the garment blank can be stitched with or Color patterning can be provided, in particular the shoulder section 19 can cover all of its areas have continuous pattern. The one in Fig. 1 in the direction of the wales of the garment blank running lines 25 and 26 in the back section 11 and in the front part sections 14 and should indicate such a pattern. There is also a continuous patterned area 27 in the shoulder portion 19 indicated by a dotted band extending over all areas,

Fig. 1a shows the cardigan made from the garment blank. To their manufacture are the longitudinal edges of the back section 11 with the adjacent longitudinal edges of the front part halves 14 and and the longitudinal edges of the sleeve sections 12 and 13 closed

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closed sleeves sewn together. aside from that the collar sections 24/2 and 24/3 are unilaterally on the edges of the central collar section 24/1 sewn on and a shoulder seam 28 shown in FIG. 1 a is formed. The one on the open side of the garment blank lying edges 29 and are already in the production of the knitted piece blank been designed as button strips, and the edge of the front section 15 is still later provided with buttonholes 31.

Fig. 2 shows a garment blank 40 also with five outer sections, namely a back section 41, two sleeve sections 42 and 43 and two front halves 44 and 45. The knitting of the outer sections is started again at the same time with fixed edge rows 16 and an adjoining ribbed patent edge 17 at the same time , and the sections are knitted as one or two-surface knitted goods until reaching the sleeve base 46 next to one another, separated from one another and knitted with separate thread guides. In contrast to the garment blank 10 according to FIG. ₀ 1, the subsequent shoulder section is knitted in such a way that all shoulder section areas 47/1, 47/2, 47/3, 47/4 and 47/5 become the one-piece collar section

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rejuvenate. This is achieved through an evenly distributed, row-wise alternating molding into one another of the meshes of at least two section areas at the same time, the with The transitions 49 between the dotted lines drawn in and each paired towards each other individual areas 47/1 - 47/5 result. Here, too, the transfer and offset sequence of the rows of stitches with regard to an even distribution of the molding steps and with regard to a desired one The course of the transition areas 49 is selected, and here, too, there is a continuous patterning of all sections of the garment blank possible.

In the case of the garment blank 40, the assembly work for forming the items shown in FIG. 2a is shown Cardigan even smaller than with garment blank 10, as there are no collar and shoulder seams required are.

To produce a knitted blank 50 shown in FIG. 3, essentially the same process is used as used in the production of the knitted blank 10. The only difference is that the knitting process

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with the formation of the solid initial rows 16 and the subsequent patent edge 17 of the spine section 51 and the two front half sections 52 and 53 are started alone, and that the additional knitting of the short sleeve sections and 55 does not start until later. Nevertheless, at a corresponding embodiment of the device of the knitting machine to achieve a solid edge the two sleeve parts 54 and 55 can also be started with fixed initial rows 16. Otherwise would have to the beginnings of the sleeve sections 54 and 55 are subsequently sewn to secure them. The apparent from Fig. 3a Cardigan differs from the cardigan according to Fig. 1a only in the short one Sleeve. A description of the remaining sections of the garment blank 50 is therefore omitted.

FIG. 4 shows an item of clothing blank 60 for producing a knitted jacket shown in FIG. 4a. The garment blank 60 is made in the same manner as the garment blank manufactured according to FIG. 2, with the only difference that the back section 61 and the two front half sections 62 and 63 are longer than

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the corresponding portions 41, 44 and 45 of the garment blank 40 have. They have also a greater length than the two sleeve sections 64 and 65 o all outer sections 61-65 can be started again together with fixed starting rows, and the shorter length of the sleeve sections 64 and 65 can be made by interrupting the knitting process of the sleeve sections several times in a single row 64 and 65 can be achieved.

5 shows a first garment blank and a second garment blank 80 which sewn together to make a sweater. The garment blank 70 becomes like the garment blank manufactured according to Fig. 2, with the difference that it has only three outer sections, namely a back section and two adjoining sleeve sections 72 and 73. In addition, the garment blank 70 has no Collar section provided. In the unspecified shoulder section of the knitted blank is a Interlocking the rows of stitches in the individual areas to form dotted lines and 75 indicated transitions. The outer edges 76 and 77 of the shoulder area are through conventional reduction, i.e. the gradual withdrawal of edge needles from the knitting process.

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The garment blank 80, which has the front part provided with a pointed collar cutout 82 of the sweater is to be made separately from the garment blank 70. Its shape in the The shoulder and collar area is done in a conventional manner Way by reducing or widening the blank, which is also fixed on its edge remote from the collar Starting rows.

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Claims (1)

P 2762 - J * f - 2 6 H 2 8 3 Patent claims: Method of machine knitting a one-piece garment blank in the desired final shape of the individual sections of the item of clothing and with in the longitudinal direction of the item of clothing running wales, characterized in that the knitting process on all outer sections of the garment blank (e.g. 10), e.g. a back section (11), two sleeve sections (12, 13) and two front halves (14, 15) forming sections, at the end of the Garment with a solid beginning (16) and these outer sections (11-15) are produced at the same time until the arm attachment height (18) of the item of clothing (10) is reached, that the adjoining shoulder section (19) of the garment blank which tapers up to the collar base by continuously intermeshing the outer section areas according to one desired course of the transitions (20-23) between these areas (19 / 1-19 / 5) in one piece with continuous Rows are knitted, and that then the collar section (24 / 1-24 / 3) or is knitted in several parts. ... 22 709840/0512 ρ 2762 -Vt- ^ 614283 • Ζ ' 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the outer portions (11-15) of the garment blank (e.g. 10) by one thread guide width and, if necessary, by the one for one Increase in width of an outer section required distance from each other separated all side by side and made with solid edges on a knitting machine. 3. The method according to claim 1 and 2, characterized in that to achieve a greater length of the sleeve _{sections (eg 0} 12, 13) the knitting process in the other outer sections (11, 14, 15) is interrupted several times in individual rows. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the knitting takes place on a knitting machine with at least one needle bed to which a parallel adjustable counter bar with stitch receiving elements aligned with the needles of the needle bed is assigned, and that the outer sections are formed into one another in the shoulder section (e.g. 19) transmitting all of the stitches of at least one outer portion of the stitch engaging elements of the counter-Barre, subsequent parallel displacement of the counter-Barre a gradient a desired course of a transition (for example, _e 20) between ... 23 0 3840/0512 ρ 2762 -ay- adjacent outer sections (e.g. 19/2, 19/4) corresponding number of needle pitches and all stitches are then transferred back to the needles of the needle bed, with shaping the outer section areas (19 / 1-19 / 5) into one another alternately from the one and from the other side of the garment blank (e.g. 10) through alternate Moving the opposing bar in one and the other direction takes place. Method according to Claim 4, characterized in that in the case of an item of clothing blank (10) with constant width of the back section areas (19/1) and the front half areas (19/4, 19/5) in the one-piece and tapering shoulder section (19) the sleeve section areas (19/2, 19/3) by alternating rows in the adjacent front half area (19/4 or 19/5) and in the back section area (19/1) are tapered towards the collar section (24) (Fig. 1). ... 24 709840/0512 ρ 2762 - ar- ^ 614283 Λ ' 6. The method according to claim 4, characterized in that that with a garment blank (40) in which all outer section areas (47 / 1-47 / 5) are in the shoulder section (47) taper towards the collar section (48), an evenly distributed one that alternates in rows At least two section areas are formed into one another at the same time (FIG. 2). 7. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the garment blank one that extends over the entire width of the tapered shoulder section and that fits into the individual stitches Mesh and / or color sampling is granted to section areas «, 8. Garment blank, produced by a method according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it is flat, each with a fixed beginning (16) and fixed Edged two front halves (14, 15), two sleeve sections (12, 13) and a back part (11) which seamlessly into a shoulder section (19) knitted with continuous courses pass over, which is also seamlessly followed by a non-closed collar edge (24). 709840/0512 P 2762 "-2T- ^ b 1 A 2 8 3 9. Garment blank according to claim 8, characterized in that it is at least in its shoulder section has a mesh and / or color pattern that extends over the entire The width and length of the shoulder portion extended 10. Garment blank according to claim 8 and / or 9, characterized in that the with continuous Stitch rows knitted shoulder section (e.g. 19) several areas (19 / 1-19 / 5) with in the stitch pattern has recognizable transitions (20-23), which from the edge attachment points (18) of the sleeve sections (12, 13) and the back portion (11) extend towards the collar portion (24). 11. Garment blank according to claim 10, characterized in that the transitions (20-23) are rectilinear at an angle to the edges of the sleeve sections (12, 13) and in the extension of the edges of the back section (11) and an edge of front part halves (14 , 15) forming sections run (Fig. 1) _O , .26 709840/0512 P 2762 - «β * - 12. Garment blank according to claim 10, characterized in that the transitions (49) to all edges of the adjoining outer sections, such as back section (41), sleeve sections (42, 43) or front half sections (44, 45), rectilinear at an angle or curved (Fig. 2). 13. Garment blank according to one of claims 8 to 11, characterized in that the Collar section (24) consists of several individual areas (24 / 1-24 / 3), each at another area (19 / 1-19 / 5) of the shoulder section (19) are knitted and each extend only over part of the edge width of the shoulder section area in question. I4o garment blank according to one of the claims 8 to 12, characterized in that the collar section (48) extends over the entire length of the collar-side edge of the shoulder section (47 / 1-47 / 5) extends. 709840/0512.