DE20101391U1 - Means for permanent shaping of human hair - Google Patents

Description

Agents for the permanent deformation of human hair

The present invention relates to an agent for permanently shaping human hair, namely both a permanent wave agent with good shaping effectiveness, but which nevertheless ensures a hair-friendly treatment, and a straightening agent, i.e., an agent for straightening wavy hair.

As is well known, permanent waving is carried out in two treatment steps: the reductive cleavage of the cystine disulfide bridges of the hair by the action of a reducing agent, and the subsequent neutralization or fixation by applying an oxidizing agent, which restores the cystine disulfide bridges.

The reducing agent predominantly used today is still thioglycolic acid, also in the form of its salts, especially the ammonium salt, although numerous other thio compounds have been proposed for this purpose, but most of them have not been adopted in practice.

The thioglycolate-containing compositions are typically used at a pH between about 7 and 10, especially 8.5 and 9.5.

The present invention is based on the task of creating an agent for permanently shaping human hair which, on the one hand, has a good shaping effect, but on the other hand reduces hair damage and can be used in particular as a permanent wave agent or as an agent for de-frizzing, i.e. straightening, frizzy hair.

The solution to this problem consists in adding a water-based molding agent containing at least one reducing agent and 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol in an amount between 0.1 and 15% by weight, preferably 0.25 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight, calculated on the total composition.

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The use of various polyols as solvents and solubilizers and penetration agents in permanent wave products has been known for a long time.

For example, US-A 3,433,868 describes two-phase permanent wave compositions with fast-breaking foam, which may additionally contain polyalcohols.

These include glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,5-pentanediol, 2-methylpentanediol-2,4, 2-ethylhexanediol-1,3 and various oligo- and polydiols.

EP 0 363 057 B1 relates to the use of 1,3-alkyldiols and 1,3-alkanediols in permanent wave compositions, preferably 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and 1,3-butanediol.

However, these compounds do not produce a satisfactory effect; several of them, such as butanediols, can also cause skin irritation or sensitization.

The permanent wave agents according to the invention preferably contain a reducing thio compound. Thioglycolic acid and thiolactic acid and their salts, in particular the ammonium and ethanolamine salts, are preferred. Other oxo compounds that can be used are in particular cysteine or its hydrochloride, homocysteine, cysteamine, N-acetylcysteine, thioglycerin, ethanediol monothioglycolate, 1,2-propylene glycol monoglycolate (cf. also WO-A 93/1791), 1,3-propanediol monothioglycolate or the resulting isomer mixture, 1,3-butanediol and 1,4-butanediol monothioglycolate or their isomer mixtures, polyethylene glycol such as di-, tri- and tetraethylene glycol monothioglycolates, glycerin monothiolactate and other thio acids and their esters and mixtures thereof.

The use of inorganic reducing sulfur compounds such as sodium hydrogen sulfite is also possible in principle.

The total content of reducing agents in the compositions according to the invention is usually 2.5 to about 15% by weight, calculated on free thioglycolic acid as reference substance.

Permanent wave preparations containing reducing agents may, if necessary, contain alkalizing agents. The amount depends on the

reducing agent and the desired pH of the composition. Preferably, the reducing agent composition contains about 0.1 to about 5, in particular about 0.5 to about 2.5% by weight thereof.

Preferred alkalizing agents in the context of the invention are ammonium carbamate, ammonia and/or ammonium (bi)carbonate. The aim is to set a pH value in the range between about 6.5 and about 9.5, preferably about 7 to 8.5.

The shaping agents according to the invention can be used both for permanent waving, i.e. curling, human hair, and for de-curling, i.e. straightening it.

It has been shown that a viscosity of about 500 to 10,000, preferably about 1,000 to about 5,000 mPa.s, measured at 20 ^° C in a Brookfield viscometer (spindle no. 5), is particularly suitable for the permanent wave agents according to the invention, while a higher viscosity of up to about 50,000 mPa.s, measured at 20°C in a Brookfield viscometer (spindle no. 5), is preferably suitable for straightening agents.

The viscosity is adjusted in each case by adding appropriate amounts of known thickeners such as cellulose derivatives, polyelectrolytes, etc., or preferably by adding Ciq-C ₂ 2 fatty alcohols, in particular in a mixture with long-chain quaternary ammonium compounds, in a preferred amount of 1 to 15 wt.%, in particular 2 to 10 wt.% fatty alcohol.

The permanent wave agents used according to the invention preferably also contain surfactants. The proportion of these is about 0.1 to about 10, in particular about 1 to about 5 wt.% of the composition containing the reducing agent.

The surfactants used in both the reducing agent compositions and the fixing agents are preferably known products, which may also be used in combination with one another.

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Suitable anionic surfactants are in particular the well-known alkyl ether sulfates and carboxylic acids, especially in the form of their alkali salts, as well as protein-fatty acid condensates.

Suitable nonionic surfactants which are preferred in the context of the invention are in particular C ₈ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid alkanolamides, amine oxides and in particular Ce-Cie alkyl polyglucosides.

It is also possible to use amphoteric surfactants such as the known betaines and amidobetaines and, according to a further preferred embodiment, cationic surfactants such as quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular in an amount of 0.05 to 5, especially 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, calculated on the reducing agent-containing composition.

Suitable long-chain quaternary ammonium compounds, which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another, are in particular cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dimethyldicetylammonium chloride, trimethylcetylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, dimethylstearylbenzylammonium chloride, benzyltetradecyldimethylammonium chloride, dimethyldihydrogenated tallow ammonium chloride, laurylpyridinium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, tri(oligooxyethyl)alkylammonium phosphate, cetylpyridinium chloride, etc.

The quaternary ammonium salts disclosed in EP-A 472 107 are also well suited.

In principle, all quaternary ammonium compounds as listed in the "CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary", 4th Ed. (1991), under the trivial name "quaternium" are suitable.

A further desirable component of the reducing agent compositions used according to the invention are, in addition to 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, further mono- and dialcohols or their ethers, in particular mono-C _{1 -C 3} -alkyl ethers. ;

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Preferred substances in this context are ethanol, n-propanol, isopropyl alcohol, 1-methoxypropanol(-2), 1-ethoxypropanol(-2) and ethoxydiglycol, preferably in an amount of about 0.1 to 10% by weight, calculated on the total composition.

Other diols and their ethers can also be used in minor amounts, e.g. 1,3- and 1,4-butanediol, diethylene glycol and its monomethyl and monoethyl ethers as well as dipropylene glycol and its monomethyl and monoethyl ethers.

Glycerin, hexanetriol, ethyl carbitol, benzyl alcohol, benzyloxyethanol, propylene carbonate (4-methyl-1,3-dioxolan-2-one), N-alkylpyrrolidones and urea can also be used.

Other possible additional ingredients are cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric polymers, preferably in an amount of about 0.1 to about 5, in particular about 0.25 to 2.5 wt.% of the total composition of the agent.

The agents used according to the invention can of course contain all substances customary in permanent shaping agents, a detailed list of which is omitted here, and are preferably in the form of solutions, more or less viscous gels, emulsions or creams.

These may be single-phase products or compositions housed in separate packaging which are combined during use, as described, for example, in DE-C 43 04 828.

To avoid repetition, reference is made to the state of the art as described, for example, in "Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry", Vol. A12 (1986), pp. 588 to 591, and in particular in the monograph by K. Schrader, "Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika", 2nd edition (1989, Hüthig-Verlag), pp. 823 to 840, and in the review article by D. Hollenberg et al. in "Seifen-Öle-Fette-Wachse", 117 (1991), pp. 81-87.

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The compositions and individual components disclosed therein, to which express reference is made, can also be used within the scope of the present invention.

If desired, a pre-treatment agent can be applied before the reducing agent is applied, as described, for example, in DE-A 37 40 926. After applying this pre-treatment agent, the hair is wound up and the reducing agent composition is applied. After about 15 to 30 minutes of exposure and rinsing, the hair is fixed using conventional peroxide or bromate compositions that are well known in the art.

Of course, a known intermediate treatment between the reduction and neutralization phases can also be carried out.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention.

Example 1: Alkaline perm for normal hair

Ammonium thioglycolate (60%) Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol PEG-40-Hydrogenated castor oil Polyquatern i u m-35 Perfume

Ammonia, 25% water

21.3(wt.%) 5.0 3.0 0.7 0.5 0.4

to pH 7.0 to 100.0

This composition was used to perm the hair in the usual way for about 15 minutes, rinse and fix it with a usual 2.5% h^ composition for about 8 minutes.

A pronounced, shapely perm was achieved.

Replacing 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol with the same amount of 1,3-butylene glycol resulted in a significantly weaker corrugation pattern.

Example 2: 15.0(wt%) V'::','.'·"::"·. ··
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······· ······ · 4 to 100.0 2.5 ** · ' ···· · a· 4
&bull; ·· ··· ·· ·· ··· a· ·< Alkaline perm for damaged hair 0.7 Ammonium thioglycolate (60%) 0.1 Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 0.5 . Ceteth-20 1.5 Tallowtrimonium chloride 0.4 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol Ammonia, 25% ad pH 8.0 Polyquaternium-6 Water Perfume

With this composition, a permanent wave similar to that of Example 1 was obtained.

Replacing 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol with 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol resulted in a weaker contoured wave pattern.

Example 3: Neutral perm for normal hair

A permanent wave product consisting of two compositions A and B, packaged in two compartments of a two-chamber can kept separate until use, was prepared before use by piercing the partition and applied to wound human hair, rinsed after about fifteen minutes of exposure and fixed with a 2.5% H ₂ O 2 fixing composition for about five minutes, rinsed again, washed and dried.

An expressive, even, intense perm was achieved.

An identical treatment, but with the same amount of 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol added instead of 0.5 wt.% 2-methylpropanediol-1,3, was visibly inferior in the white picture.

Composition A:

Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 4.5 (g) Polyquatemium -6 1.0 PEG-65 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.8 Isopropyl alcohol 1-5 Ethoxydiglycol 2.0 Cocoamidopropyl betaine ¹ '° Perfume 0.3 Opaque agents 9.5 Ammonia, 25% to pH 8.4 Water to 72.0

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Composition B:

Ammonium thioglycolate, 70% 18.0 (g)

Thiolactic acid 2.0

2-Methyl-1,3-propanediol 0.5

Ammonia, 25% ad pH 5.5 water ad 28.0

After mixing both compositions, a ready-to-use product with a pH of 7.4 was obtained, oie oo

Example 4: Neutral perm for colored hair

Analogous to Example 4, a permanent wave product packaged in a two-chamber packaging was produced:

Composition A :

Ammonium hydrogen carbnate 3.5 (g) Polyquaternium-11 0.5 Ethanol 0.5 1-Methoxypropanol (-2) 1.0 Cocoamidopropyl betaine 1.0 P EG-25-g lyceryl cocoate 0.8 Perfume 0.3 Opaque agents 9.5 Ammonia, 25% to pH 8.3 Water to 72.0

Composition B:

Ammonium thioglycolate, 70% 13.0 (g)

Thiolactic acid 0.5

2-Methyl-1,3-propanediol 1,5

Ammonia, 25% ad pH 5.5 water ad 28.0

By mixing the compositions immediately before application, a product with a pH of 7.4 was obtained.

This mixture, when applied to colored hair as described in Example 3, produced an expressive perm that did not affect the color shine or intensity in any way.

Example 5: Alkaline perm gel

Ammonium thioglycolate, 70% 15.0 (g)

Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 4.5

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.7

Ci2-Ci8 fatty alcohol mixture 3.5

2-Methyl-1,3-propanediol 0.5

Polyquaternium-28 0.1

Perfume 0.3 ammonia, 25% ad pH 8.0

Water, ad 100.0

Example 6: 8.0(wt%) De-curler 3.5 Thioglycolic acid 2.5 Ci6-C22 fatty alcohol mixture 1.5 Oleth-50 0.8 Laureth-23 5.0 Polyquaternium-2 0.6 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol to pH 9.0 Perfume to 100.0 Monoethanolamine Water

This composition is an effective straightener for frizzy hair.

None of the permanent wave or straightening agents according to the invention according to Examples 1 to 6 showed the slightest irritating or sensitizing effect, even after repeated use.

Claims (5)

1. Agent for permanently shaping human hair, containing at least one reducing agent, characterized in that it contains 0.1 to 15% by weight, calculated on the total composition, of 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol. 2. Agent according to claim 1, containing 0.25 to 5 wt.%, calculated on the total composition, of 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol. 3. Agent according to claim 1 or 2, containing 0.1 to 5 wt. %, calculated on the total composition, of at least one nonionic surfactant. 4. Agent according to one or more of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it has a Brookfield viscosity of 500 to 10,000 mPas at 20°C. 5. Agent according to one or more of claims 1 to 4, containing 0.1 to 10 wt. %, calculated on the total composition, of 1-methoxypropanol (-2) and/or ethoxydiglycol.