DE19933462A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological compositions with radical-scavenging and/or antioxidant activity comprise ectoin compounds and hydrophilic surfactants - Google Patents

Abstract

Topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing (a) ectoin (1,4,5,6- or 3,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-methyl-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid) and/or at least one ectoin derivative and (b) at least one hydrophilic surfactant are new. Independent claims are also included for: (1) Use of hydrophilic surfactant(s) in combination with ectoin compound(s) as radical scavengers and/or antioxidants and their use for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of skin aging caused by oxidative stress and for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of inflammatory reactions. (2) Use of hydrophilic surfactant(s) in combination with ectoin compound(s) as radical scavengers and/or antioxidants as components of topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological topical accessories horse riding with an effective content of ectoins or their derivatives, the minimum contain a hydrophilic surfactant. In particular, the present invention relates cosmetic preparations with effective protection against harmful oxidati processes in the skin, but also to protect the topical preparations themselves or to protect the components of the topical preparations from harmful oxidati processes with at least one ectoin and at least one hydrophilic surfactant.

In the cosmetic and dermatological according to the invention mentioned below Preparations are cosmetic or dermatological topical Preparations containing at least one ectoin and at least one hydrophilic surfactant.

The present invention further relates to antioxidants, preferably those which are found in skin care cosmetic or dermatological preparations are used. In particular, the invention also relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations, containing such antioxidants. In a preferred embodiment, the present invention cosmetic and dermatological preparations for prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, in particular those caused by oxidative and radical processes, especially those Skin aging.

Furthermore, the present invention relates to active substances and preparations, such active substances containing substances, for cosmetic and dermatological treatment or prophylaxis erythematous, inflammatory, allergic or autoimmune-reactive symptoms, especially those dermatoses that use radical or prooxidative processes are connected.  

The present invention further relates to active substance combinations and preparations which are used for Prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, especially of Photodermatoses.

It is known that reactive oxygen species are involved in inflammatory processes, which can lead to cell damage. The associated with the inflammatory processes Erythematous skin symptoms also appear as side effects in certain Skin diseases or irregularities. For example, the typical skin is blow with the appearance of acne regularly more or less reddened. Further are involved in the pathogenesis of various dermatoses, such as psoriasis and the scleroderma reactive oxygen species, especially the superoxide anion radical, involved. They occur here as so-called clastogenic, d. H. chromosome breaking Factors in evidence (P. Filipe et al., Photochemistry and Photobiology 66: 497-501, 1997; Ch. Auclair et al., Archives of Biochemistry And Biophysics 278: 238-244, 1990).

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation (UV radiation) on the skin is well known. UV radiation leads to different mechanisms Development of damage to the skin.

In particular UVA radiation in the range from approx. 320 to approx. 400 nm is absorbed by cellular chromophores such as riboflavin, NAD coenzymes, melanin etc., which act as endogenous photosensitizers. The reaction cascades induced by this, mostly radical, mainly lead to the formation of reactive oxygen species such as, for example, H ₂ O ₂ , hydroxyl radicals and singlet oxygen. In addition to lipids and proteins, this particularly damages the DNA. Typical DNA damage after UVA exposure is single strand breaks, oxidized bases such as 8-hydroxyguanine and DNA adducts. Solar UVB radiation in the range from approx. 290 to approx. 320 nm is predominantly absorbed directly by the DNA. Prooxidative and radical processes are also reported for this UV range (for example, D. Peus et al., Journal of Investigative Dermatology 110: 966-971, 1998), which lead to corresponding cell damage.

Furthermore, undefined radical or prooxidative photo products, which are in the skin under UV exposure due to photochemical reactions their high reactivity cause uncontrolled subsequent reactions and thus also in the Intervene skin metabolism. It has been proven that UVA radiation in particular leads to a Damage to the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue leads to what the skin  can age prematurely, and that it is the cause of numerous phototoxic and photo-allergic reactions can be seen.

The object of the invention was therefore also cosmetic, dermatological and active pharmaceutical ingredients and preparations as well as light protection formulations fen, for the prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, especially of photo dermatoses, preferred for dermatitis solaris and polymorphic light dermatosis (PLD, PLE, Mallorca acne and a variety of other names as used in the Literature e.g. B. A. Voelckel et al. Zentralblatt Skin and STDs 156: 2, 1989) are used.

In the article "Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury" in "Oxidative Stress in Der matology ", p. 323 ff. (Marcel Decker Inc., New York, Basel, Hong Kong, publisher: Jürgen Fuchs, Frankfurt, and Lester Packer, Berkeley / California), become oxidative Skin damage and its closer causes are listed.

To prevent these prooxidative or radical reactions, the cosmetic or dermatological formulations additional antioxidants and / or Radical scavengers are incorporated. There are some antioxidants and free radical scavengers knows. So is already in US Pat. Nos. 4,144,325 and 4,248,861 Numerous other documents have been suggested to be vitamin E, a substance with be known antioxidant effect in light protection formulations, but remains here, too, the effect achieved far behind the hoped for.

Antioxidants and radical scavengers are also used as protective substances against the Spoilage of the preparations containing them. Corresponding substances, which are also used in the fields of cosmetics and pharmacy for example vitamin E, especially in the form of α-tocopheryl acetate, vitamin C, especially in the form of ascorbyl phosphate, butylated hydroxytoluene and others. they prevent oxidation processes, e.g. the autoxidation of unsaturated compounds containing lipids, but can also be used for photostability, especially UV absorbing components of the preparations. For example, in Sunscreens to protect against UVA rays certain derivatives of dibenzoylmethane used, the photostability of which is insufficient is given (Int. J. Cosm. Science 10: 53 ff, 1988).

In practice, if human hair is to be colored permanently, only oxidie comes hair dyeing processes. Training takes place in oxidative hair dyeing of the dye chromophore through reaction of precursors (phenols, aminophenols,  less often diamines) and bases (mostly p-phenylenediamine) with the oxidizing agent, mostly hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide concentrations around 6% usually used.

It is usually assumed that in addition to the dyeing effect, bleaching effect by the hydrogen peroxide. In oxidatively dyed human hair are, similar to bleached hair, microscopic holes in the places where Melanin granules, detectable. The fact is that the oxidizer Hydrogen peroxide not only with the color precursors, but also with the hair substance react and may cause damage to the hair.

An object of the present invention was to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art remove. In particular, active substances or preparations should contain such active substances holding, are made available when using the damage to the skin and / or the hair at least diminished, if not entirely, by oxidative influence can be prevented.

Another object of the present invention was to provide cosmetic preparations to make available, which before or after treatment of the hair with hair dye preparations, even those containing strong oxidizing agents such. B. Hydrogen peroxide, whose harmful oxidizing effects counteract.

In particular, active substances and preparations containing such active substances should cosmetic and dermatological treatment and / or prophylaxis of erythematous, ent inflammatory, allergic or autoimmune reactive symptoms, especially dermatos sen, but also of the appearance of the "stinging". It was surprising, however, and could not have been foreseen by those skilled in the art that the uses Formation of hydrophilic surfactants and ectoins as antioxidants and / or as radical scavengers in cosmetic or dermatological preparations the disadvantages of the prior art Help technology.

It was also not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that ectoins and hydrophilic surfactants or cosmetic or dermatological preparations used according to the invention prepared, containing these in combination

• - better catch radicals
• - have a better antioxidant effect  
• - better against those caused by foreign substances or inflammatory reactions or Radical and pro-oxidative processes caused by UV radiation Protect damage to cellular DNA, lipids and proteins
• - better against those caused by foreign substances or inflammatory reactions or Radical and pro-oxidative processes caused by UV radiation Protect immune reactions
• - better counteract skin aging mediated by these processes
• - would better prevent inflammatory reactions

as the active substances, combinations of active substances and preparations of the prior art. Furthermore, it was not foreseeable that ectoine in cosmetic or dermatological preparations with hydrophilic surfactants have a higher stability as comparable active ingredients, for example as vitamin C.

It has surprisingly been found that the effects and advantages of the ectoins mentioned in particularly obtained when they are used as active ingredients in combination with hydrophilic Surfactants are contained in the topical preparations.

According to the invention, the stated problems are solved and the described Get effects.

The invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological topical preparations containing ectoin and / or at least one ectoin derivative and at least a hydrophilic surfactant.

The invention also relates to the use of at least one hydrophilic Surfactant in combination with one or more compounds from the group the ectoine as a radical scavenger and / or antioxidant and its use for Treatment and / or prophylaxis of those caused by oxidative stress Skin aging and for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of inflammatory reactions.

The invention also relates to the use of at least one hydrophilic Surfactant in combination with at least one ectoin as antioxidants and / or as Free radical scavenger as a component of cosmetic or dermatological topical Preparations.

The use of at least one hydrophilic surfactant in combination is preferred with at least one ectoin and preparations with it, to prevent UV induced damage to the skin, preferably UVA radiation, especially UVA1  induced damage and especially those caused by UV radiation evoked reactive oxygen species as well as other radical or prooxidative Processes are conditional.

The uses mentioned above are also the subject of the invention.

The ectoin and ectoin derivatives are also referred to here as ectoins.

Suitable ectoins are ectoin (racemate) (1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-methyl-4- pyrimidinecarboxylic acid or 3,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-methyl-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid) or 5- Hydroxy-ectoin (racemate) or hydroxyectoin (1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-5-hydroxy-2-methyl-4- pyrimidinecarboxylic acid or 3,4,5,6-tetrahydro-5-hydroxy-2-methyl-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid).

Ectoin, (S) -1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-methyl-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid and / or are preferred (S, S) -1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-5-hydroxy-2-methyl-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (5-hydroxy-ectoin or hydroxyectoin).

Other suitable ectoins are derivatives of ectoin or 5-hydroxy-ectoin (they will also called THP (A) or THP (B)) as well as their isomers and tetrahydro-4- pyrimidine carboxylic acid derivatives, which are also referred to here as ectoins.

The ectoins are known, commercially available and can be produced by known processes. They can be present as a racemate or in optically active form. The S isomers are prefers. Ectoins can also contain diastereomers, zwitterions, cations or anions form.

Preferred ectoins or ectoin derivatives are salts, e.g. B. sodium or potassium salts Ectoins or esters, which are formed by reacting the 4-carboxy group with alcohols and / or 5-hydroxy group can be obtained with carboxylic acids, or with acid addition salts inorganic or organic acids.

For example, straight-chain or branched-chain monoalcohols with 1 to 20 are suitable Carbon atoms or straight-chain or branched-chain alkyl carboxylic acids with 2 to 20 Carbon atoms, e.g. B. alkyl monocarboxylic acids.

The alkyl radicals of the alcohols or carboxylic acids mentioned preferably each have up to 10 carbon atoms, in particular up to 5 carbon atoms.

The monoalcohols may have a further hydroxyl group and Monocarboxylic acids another carboxyl group.  

The cosmetic or dermatological formulations according to the invention can be as be composed as usual and for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or the hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics. they preferably contain 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight in particular 0.1-2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent, of ectoins.

The hydrophilic surfactants are preferably selected from the group of alkyl glucosides Acyl lactylates, betaines and cocoamphoacetates.

The alkyl glucosides are in turn advantageously selected from the group of alkyl glucosides, which are characterized by the structural formula

distinguish, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 4 to 24 carbons represents atoms and where DP has an average degree of glucosylation of up to 2 means.

The value DP represents the degree of glucosidation of the alkyl glucosides used according to the invention and is defined as

Here p ₁ , p ₂ , p ₃ . . . or p _{i represents} the proportion of single, double, triple ... i-fold glucosy lated products in percentages by weight chosen from 1.2-1.4, in particular from 1.3.

The value DP takes into account the fact that alkyl glucosides are produced in the Usually represent mixtures of mono- and oligoglucosides. According to the invention is advantageous a relatively high level of monoglucosides, typically on the order of 40-70% by weight.

Alkyl glycosides which are used particularly advantageously according to the invention are selected from the Group octylglucopyranoside, nonylglucopyranoside, decylglucopyranoside, undecylglucopy ranoside, dodecylglucopyranoside, tetradecylglucopyranoside and hexadecylglucopyranoside.

It is also advantageous to use natural or synthetic raw and auxiliary materials or gemi to use cal, which ver by an effective content of ver distinguish the active ingredients used, for example Plantaren® 1200 (Henkel KGaA), Oramix® NS 10 (Seppic).

The acyl lactylates are in turn advantageously selected from the group of substances which are characterized by the structural formula

Distinguish, wherein R _{1 is} a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 30 carbon atoms and M ^{+ is selected} from the group of alkali ions and the group of ammonium ions substituted with one or more alkyl and / or with one or more hydroxyalkyl radicals corresponds to half the equivalent of an alkaline earth ion.

Sodium isostearyl lactylate, for example the product Pathio, is advantageous, for example nic® ISL from American Ingredients Company.

The betaines are advantageously selected from the group of substances which are distinguished by the structural formula

distinguish, wherein R _{2 is} a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 30 carbon atoms.

R ₂ particularly advantageously denotes a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 6 to 12 carbon atoms.

Capramidopropyl betaine, for example the product Tego®, is advantageous Betain 810 from the company Th. Goldschmidt AG.

Sodium cocoam, for example, is advantageous as cocoamphoacetate according to the invention phoacetate chosen as it is called Miranol® Ultra C32 by the company Miranol Chemical Corp. is available.

The preparations according to the invention are advantageously characterized in that the or the hydrophilic surfactants in concentrations of 0.01-20% by weight, preferably 0.05-10 % By weight, particularly preferably 0.1-5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the Composition, present or present.

The cosmetic and dermatological additives according to the invention are used Preparations in the usual manner for cosmetics on the skin and / or the hair amount applied.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can be used in various ways which have shapes. So you can z. B. a solution, an anhydrous preparation, an emulsion or microemulsion of the water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in type Water (O / W), a multiple emulsions, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water type (W / O / W), a gel, a solid stick, an ointment or an aerosol. It is also advantageous to give ectoine in an encapsulated form, e.g. B. in collagen matrices and other common encapsulation materials, e.g. B. as cellulose encapsulations, in gelatin, Wax matrices or encapsulated liposomally. In particular wax matrices such as those in DE OS 43 08 282 have been found to be favorable. Prefers  become emulsions. O / W emulsions are particularly preferred. Emulsions, W / O Emulsions and O / W emulsions are available in the usual way.

The known W / O and O / W emulsifiers can be used as emulsifiers be used.

It is advantageous to add further customary co-emulsifiers in the preferred ones according to the invention Use O / W emulsions.

According to the invention, advantageous co-emulsifiers are, for example, O / W emulsifiers chosen, mainly from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-16, whole particularly advantageous with with HLB values of 14.5-15.5, provided that the O / W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value can be such Emulsifiers are also lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). Especially before:
Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (Steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (Steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (Steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (Steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether (Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (Steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (Steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) - stearyl ether (Steareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether (Isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20) ,
Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoce teth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13), poly ethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15),
Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolau reth-12).
Polyethylene glycol (13) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetylstearylether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol ( cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-20),

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:
Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate Polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,

Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, poly ethylene glycol (15) oleate, polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) oleate.

As ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt, sodium laureth- 11-carboxylate can be used.

Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can advantageously be used as the alkyl ether sulfate.

Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative be used. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.

Polyethylene glycol (60) evening primrose can advantageously be used as ethoxylated triglycerides Glycerides can be used (Evening Primrose = evening primrose).

Another advantage is the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group poly ethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) - glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / capri nat, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene lenglycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoat to choose.

It is also favorable to sorbitan esters from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (20) bitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sor bitanmonoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) to choose sorbitan monooleate.

As optional W / O emulsifiers which may be advantageous according to the invention can be used: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms, saturated diglycerol esters and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids of a ket ten length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, monoglycerol ether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated ter, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular  their 12-18 carbon atoms, propylene glycol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms and sorbitan esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoiso stearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl mono isostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol mono caprylate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, poly ethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyce rylmonocaprylate.

It is advantageous according to the invention to use oil-soluble solutions customary in the preparations according to the invention Liche UVA filters and / or UVB filters in the lipid phase and / or usual water-soluble Use UVA filters and / or UVB filters in the aqueous phase.

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, ectoins and hydrophilic surfactants in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and insert the hair.

The use is therefore also an advantageous embodiment of the present invention of ectoins and hydrophilic surfactants to protect the skin and / or hair from oxi dative strain, especially this use in shampoos and Washing formulations or hair treatment compositions, in particular hair colorants.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can be kos Contain metallic auxiliary substances, as they are usually used in such preparations be, e.g. B. preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent the Foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, Foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.  

In particular, ectoins and hydrophilic surfactants can also be used in accordance with the invention Antioxidants and / or radical scavengers can be combined.

According to the invention, all of the cosmetic and / or cosmetic agents can be used as favorable antioxidants suitable or customary antioxidants used in matological applications will.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D. -Carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, (β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives ( (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, Butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts), Flavonoids, e.g. quercetin, rutin, flavanol, also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids , Palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. As citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives , Ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin droguajaretsäure, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihy, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, sesamol, sesamolin, zinc and derivatives thereof (eg. as ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) Selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nuc leosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the Zu Preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-20 % By weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.  

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives, the additional antioxidants is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10 % By weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A, or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives, the or the represent additional antioxidants is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

Emulsions according to the invention are advantageous and contain z. B. the fats, oils, Waxes and other fat bodies, as well as water and an emulsifier, as is usually the case is used for such a type of formulation.

The lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances:

• - mineral oils, mineral waxes
• - Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, as well as natural oils such. B. Castor oil;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably Esters of fatty acids with low C alcohols, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
• - alkyl benzoates;
• - silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes as well as mixed forms of it.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions in the For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageously selected from the group of the esters from ge saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, ver branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated branched, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C- Atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the Isopro group pyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2- Ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, Eru  cyloleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures sol cher ester, e.g. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the Grup pe of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and Fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, ins special 12-18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageous, for example are selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, Palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous in the Sin ne use of the present invention. It may also be advantageous if Waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, are used as the sole lipid component of the oil phase Zen.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic Ca prinsic acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethyl hexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate are particularly advantageous.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageous in the sense of to use the present invention.

The oil phase can also advantageously contain cyclic or linear silicone oils have or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred, au ß the silicone oil or the silicone oils an additional content of other oil phases components to use.  

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageous as ver according to the invention reversible silicone oil used. But other silicone oils are also advantageous in the sense of to use the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydime thylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecylisononano are also particularly advantageous at, from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention may advantageously contain adheres alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably etha nol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, Diethy lenglykolmonomethyl- or -monoethylether and similar products, furthermore alcohols riger C number, z. As ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerin and in particular a or more thickeners, which one or which can advantageously be chosen from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, for. B. Hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageous the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called Carbopole, for example carbopole types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, respectively individually or in combination.

Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used in particular. With al alcoholic solvents, water can be another ingredient.

Emulsions according to the invention are advantageous and contain z. B. the fats, oils, Waxes and other fat bodies, as well as water and an emulsifier, as is usually the case is used for such a type of formulation.

Gels according to the invention usually contain low C number alcohols, e.g. B. ethanol, Isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerin and water or an oil mentioned above in Presence of a thickener, which is preferred for oily alcoholic gels Silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate, in the case of aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels is preferably a polyacrylate.

As a blowing agent for preparations according to the invention which can be sprayed from aerosol containers are the usual known volatile, liquefied propellants, for example  Suitable hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), alone or in a mixture can be used together. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.

Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which Absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, taking the total amount of filter substances e.g. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0 % By weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, is cosmetic To provide preparations that cover the hair or skin before the whole Protect the area of ultraviolet radiation. You can also use it as a sunscreen Serve hair or skin.

If the preparations according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, these can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UVB filters advantageous according to the invention are e.g. B .:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3- Benzylidene camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2- ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-Me isopentyl thoxy cinnamate;
• - esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4- isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester,
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethyl hexyl) ester, -2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.
• - Derivatives of benzotriazole
• - Chromophores bound to polymers of acrylate or silicone
• - Symmetrically and asymmetrically substituted triazines

Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are e.g. B .:

• - Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as their sodium, potassium or their Triethanolammonium salt, as well as the sulfonic acid itself;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybene zophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-Oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and their Salts and the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts  (the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, for example the corresponding one Sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3- Bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonic acid.

The list of UVB filters mentioned in combination with the invention Active ingredient combinations can, of course, not be limiting be.

The invention also relates to the use of a combination according to the invention the ectoine with at least one UVB filter as antioxidants or the use of a Combination of the active compound combinations according to the invention with min at least a UVB filter as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological Preparation.

It can also be advantageous to use combinations of the ectoins according to the invention with UVA fil tern to combine, which previously usually contained in cosmetic preparations are. These substances are preferably derivatives of di benzoylmethane, especially 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3- dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. These combinations too or preparations containing these combinations are the subject of the invention. The quantities used for the UVB combination can be used.

The invention also relates to the use of a combination according to the invention the ectoine with at least one UVA filter as an antioxidant or the use of a Combination of ectoins according to the invention with at least one UVA filter as Antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

The invention also relates to the use of a combination according to the invention the Ectoine with at least one UVA filter and at least one UVB filter as anti oxidans or the use of a combination of the ectoins according to the invention at least one UVA filter and at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant in one cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations with an effective ectoin content can also contain inorganic pigments that are commonly used in cosmetics Protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of Titanium, zinc, zirconium, silicon, manganese, cerium and mixtures thereof, and Ab  changes in which the oxides are the active agents. Acts particularly preferred are pigments based on titanium dioxide.

These combinations of UVA filter and pigment or preparations, these Containing a combination are the subject of the invention. They can stand for them the amounts mentioned in combinations are used.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations to protect hair from UV Jets according to the invention are, for example, shampooing agents, Preparations used when rinsing hair before or after shampooing, before or after permanent wave treatment, before or after coloring or decoloring the hair can be used to prepare hair or hair Preparations for dyeing or decoloring, for a styling and treatment lotion, a Hair lacquer or permanent waving.

The cosmetic and dermatological contain active ingredients and auxiliary substances, such as them usually for this type of hair care and treatment be used. Preservatives, surface-active agents, serve as auxiliary substances Substances, substances for preventing foaming, thickeners, emulsions gates, fats, oils, waxes, organic solvents, bactericides, perfumes, dyes or Pigments, the task of which is the hair or the cosmetic or dermatological Preparation to dye yourself, electroyte, substances against greasing the hair.

Water-soluble alkali metal, am monium, alkaline earth (including magnesium) and zinc salts of inorganic To understand anions and any mixtures of such salts, being guaranteed must be that these salts are pharmaceutically or cosmetically harmless award.

The anions according to the invention are preferably selected from the group of chlorides, the sulfates and hydrogen sulfates, the phosphates, hydrogen phosphates and the linear and cyclic oligophosphates and the carbonates and hydrogen carbonates.

Cosmetic preparations containing a skin cleanser or shampoo represent, preferably contain at least one anionic, non-ionic or am photere surface-active substance, or mixtures of such substances, Ectoine in an aqueous medium and auxiliary agents, as are usually used for this the. The surface-active substance or the mixtures of these substances can be in  a concentration between 1% and 50% by weight in the shampoo are available.

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparations are in the form of a lotion, the rinsed and z. B. before or after decolorization, before or after shampooing, between two shampooing steps, before or after the permanent wave treatment is applied, it is z. B. to aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic Lö solutions, which may contain surface-active substances, their concentration can be between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.2 and 5% by weight.

These cosmetic or dermatological preparations can also contain aerosols represent tools commonly used for this.

A cosmetic preparation in the form of a lotion that is not rinsed out, in particular a lotion for inlaying the hair, a lotion used when blow-drying the hair , a styling and treatment lotion, generally provides an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution and contains at least one cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymer or mixtures thereof, as well as hydrophilic effective surfactants and ectoins. The amount of polymers used lies z. B. between 0.1 and 10 wt .-%, preferably between 0.1 and 3 wt .-%.

Cosmetic preparations for the treatment and care of the hair can be used as emulsions are present which are of the non-ionic or anionic type. Non-ionic emulsions contain in addition to water oils or fatty alcohols, which are also polyethoxylated, for example or can be polypropoxylated, or mixtures of the two organic com components. These emulsions may contain cationic surfactants punch.

According to the invention, cosmetic preparations for the treatment and care of the hair re are present as gels, in addition to an effective content of ectoins and hydrophilic Surfactants and solvents usually used therefor, preferably water organic thickeners, e.g. B. gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, Cellu loose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethylcel lulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic ver thickener, e.g. B. aluminum silicates such as bentonite, or a mixture of Polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The Thickener is in the gel e.g. B. in an amount between 0.1 and 30 wt .-%, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.  

The amount of ectoins in an agent intended for the hair is preferably 0.05 % By weight to 10% by weight, in particular 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, based on the Total weight of the product.

Aqueous cosmetic detergents according to the invention or low-water or water-free detergent concentrates intended for aqueous cleaning may contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, for example

• - conventional soaps, e.g. B. Fatty acid salts of sodium
• - Alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkane and alkyl benzene sulfonates
• - sulfoacetates
• - sulfobetaines
• - Sarcosinate
• - Amidosulfobetaines
• - sulfosuccinates
• - sulfosuccinic acid semiesters
• - alkyl ether carboxylates
• - Protein fatty acid condensates
• - alkyl betaines and amido betaines
• - fatty acid alkanolamides
• - Polyglycol ether derivatives

Preparations according to the invention, the cosmetic cleaning preparations for the skin represent can be in liquid or solid form. They contain in addition to ectoins and hydrophilic surfactants preferably at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactant or mixtures thereof, if desired one or several electrolytes and auxiliaries, as are usually used for this. The surface-active substance can have a concentration of between 1 and 94% by weight the cleaning preparations are present, based on the total weight of the preparation gene.

Cosmetic preparations, which are a shampoo, contain in addition an effective content of ectoins and hydrophilic surfactants, preferably at least an anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactant or mixture therefrom, optionally an electrolyte and auxiliaries according to the invention, as usual be used for this. The surface-active substance can be in a Concentration between 1% and 94% by weight in the shampoo are available.  

The compositions according to the invention optionally contain those in the Cosmetics usual additives, for example perfume, thickeners, dyes, Deodorants, antimicrobials, lipid replenishing agents, complexing and seque treatment agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients and the like.

The present invention also includes a cosmetic method for protecting the skin and the hair before oxidative or photooxidative processes is that you have a cosmetic that has an effective concentration Contains hydrophilic surfactants and ectoins in sufficient quantities on the skin or Hair.

The present invention also includes a method for protecting cosmetic or dermatological preparations against oxidation or photooxidation, these Preparations e.g. B. represent preparations for the treatment and care of the hair, esp special hair colorants, hair lacquers, shampooing agents, color shampooing agents, also make-up products such. B. nail polishes, lipsticks, complexion bases, washing and Shower preparations, creams for the treatment or care of the skin or all of them other cosmetic preparations, the components of which have stability problems can cause oxidation or photooxidation during storage, characterized in that the cosmetic preparations have an effective content of have hydrophilic surfactants and ectoins.

The amount of ectoins in these preparations is preferably 0.01-10% by weight, preferably 0.05-5 wt .-%, in particular 0.1-2.0 wt .-%, based on the total Ge importance of the preparations. Hydrophilic surfactants can be used in the amounts already mentioned be included.

Ectoins can be incorporated into the preparations according to the invention in a known manner will. Ectoin and hydroxy-ectoin can e.g. B. in the water phase, oil-soluble derivatives e.g. B. be incorporated into the oil phase. Furthermore, the Ectoine can manufacture the Preparations are mixed.

The invention also relates to the process for the preparation of the invention Cosmetic agent, which is characterized in that in a manner known per se Active substances or combinations of active substances according to the invention in cosmetic and derma incorporates technological formulations.  

Unless otherwise stated, quantities, proportions and percentages are based on the Weight and the total amount or based on the total weight of the preparations.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without it restrict.  

example 1

O / W lotion

Example 2

O / W lotion

Example 3

O / W lotion

Example 4

O / W lotion

Example 5

O / W lotion

Example 6

O / W lotion

Example 7

O / W lotion

Example 8

O / W lotion

Example 9

O / W lotion

Example 10

O / W lotion

Example 11

O / W lotion

Example 12

O / W lotion

Example 13

Example 14

Example 15

Example 16

Example 17

Example 18

Example 19

O / W lotion

Example 20

O / W cream

Example 21

O / W lotion

Example 22

Hydrodispersion gel

Example 23

O / W cream

Claims (5)

1. Cosmetic or dermatological topical preparations containing ectoin and / or at least one ectoin derivative and at least one hydrophilic surfactant. 2. Use of at least one hydrophilic surfactant in combination with one Compound or several compounds from the group of ectoins as Radical scavengers and / or antioxidants and their use for treatment and / or prophylaxis of skin aging caused by oxidative stress and for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of inflammatory reactions. 3. Use of at least one hydrophilic surfactant in combination with at least one ectoin as an antioxidant and / or as a radical scavenger as Part of cosmetic or dermatological topical preparations. 4. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that the ectoins in cosmetic or dermatological topical preparations in concentration NEN of 0.01-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05-5 wt .-%, in particular 0.1-2.0 % By weight based on the total weight of the preparations. 5. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the hydrophilic surfactants in cosmetic or dermatological topical preparations in concentrations from 0.01-20% by weight, preferably 0.05-10% by weight, in particular 0.1-5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the preparations.