DE19857489A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological skin-protective compositions, containing triglycerides and saturated and unsaturated phosphatidyl choline to give good barrier stabilizing effects - Google Patents

Abstract

A formulation (I) for protecting skin against external agents and damage of endogenous origin comprises saturated phosphatidyl choline, unsaturated phosphatidyl choline, medium-chain triglycerides, salts,moisture retainers, cosmetic or dermatological active agents and water. A formulation (I) for protecting skin against external agents and damage of endogenous origin comprises (in weight % (wt. %)) saturated phosphatidyl choline (0.1-10,preferably 0.5-5), unsaturated phosphatidyl choline (0.1-10, preferably 0.1-5), medium-chain triglycerides (40-95, preferably 50-80), salts (1-35, preferably 5-35),moisture retainers (0.5-20, preferably 1-15), cosmetic or dermatological active agents (0.01-50, preferably 1-40) and water (0-5, preferably 0-3). The unsaturated/saturated phosphatidyl choline ratio is 0.01-1, preferably 0.09-0.5.

Description

The present invention relates to oil-containing skin protection preparations for the prevention of skin damage.

The number of dermatoses and skin allergies is constantly increasing. A common reason are e.g. B. Moist space workplaces where the skin of the working person is particularly watery is exposed. These and other external substances attack the barrier layers of the Skin.

The barrier layers consist, among other components, of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids and glycerides (cosmetics, editor W. Umbach, Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart 1995, p. 27); they are localized in the horny layer, the uppermost part of the epidermis. The barrier layers will more or less disturbed by both aqueous and oily substances or mixtures of substances or destroyed. As a result of a barrier disorder, the transepidermal water loss usually increases (TEWL) of the skin. There may be redness. The skin moisture decreases. The skin dries out, becomes rough and cracked. The penetration of irritant, allergic and pathogenic substances or facultatively pathogenic germs is relieved. Eczema, dermatoses and other skin diseases can arise (H. Lautenschläger, Mineralöltechnik 1996, 6).

There are a number of ways the skin can work against agents and other external substances too protect. The simplest protection is e.g. B. gloves for the hands, but they have the disadvantage that the skin sweats and swells from the inside. In addition, gloves are a high standard Lost sensitivity at work. Conventional skin protection products with an occlusive effect on the The basis of mineral oil products, silicones and covering greases and oils have been known Lich the disadvantage that the skin swells from the inside like a glove and the skin's own Synthesis of barrier-reactive substances is reduced (K.R. Feingold, Cosmetics & Toiletries 112 (7), 49-59 (1997)).

Conventional skin protection products are usually oil-in-water (O / W) - or water-in-oil (W / O) - Creams. They are mostly occlusive and usually only take protection against external substances, but not special skin dispositions. So need z. B. people which are predisposed to atopic dermatitis (neurodermatitis), urticaria (hives), Psoriasis, ichthiosis or dyskeratosis, or people who have one Are predisposed to blemishes or acne, preparations that are able to skin at the same time protect against the effects of external (harmful) substances and endogenously caused To prevent skin damage. It is necessary to stabilize the barrier and if necessary also reinforce. Protection also means that the skin in the event of the desired addition a dermatologically active cream component of any present Side effects is protected. Accordingly, an even and tolerable Penetration can be adjustable. Skin protection preparations are therefore necessary with regard to their Composition of both the respective skin, its condition and disposition as well as that from the outside acting substances including dermatological agents can be adapted. The preparations have to supply fatty substances to the skin, but are not allowed after the application fat. I.e. they should be free of substances that remain on the skin surface and in contact with the skin of objects. Substances that have these disadvantages are e.g. B. mineral oil components such as petroleum jelly, paraffin oils and ozokerite (earth wax), but z. Belly polymeric α-olefins and silicones. Such substances are a. in occupational skin protection completely not suitable. In addition, skin protection preparations should be free from the alkanolamines: triethanolamine, Diethanolamine and ethanolamine and their salts (see restrictions of the German Cosmetics regulation, BGBI. I, No. 67, p. 2410 v. 13.10.97, regarding the nitrosamine problem and the German Technical Rule for Hazardous Substances, TRGS 540, Federal Worksheet 12/1997, regarding the possibility of sensitization). The skin protection preparations should be free of emulsifiers, such as e.g. B. the ethoxylates for their Irritation under normal conditions or under special conditions such as the UV radiation tion are known (G. Dahms, Perfumery and Cosmetics 76, 426-431 (1995)). Preservatives should also be excluded, as these substances are generally sensitive rende and / or irritating properties.

The skin protection preparations must also, despite the lack of typical water-repellent substances such as Vaseline, paraffin oils and silicone oils have sufficient water resistance (water resistance) and Sweat resistance. The water resistance relates primarily to that for the causal effect of the skin protection products responsible barrier-stabilizing ingredients. The addition of physiologically compatible moisturizing substances should be part of the skin protection with regard to the prevention of skin roughness and cracking as well as protection from be lipophilic pollutants.

It has now surprisingly been found that all of the skin requirements mentioned protective preparations based on oleogels can be realized, their most important component Is phosphatidylcholine.

Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine (PC-H) is a typical barrier-stabilizing substance, which usually originates from soybean phosphatidylcholine, which is concentrated and subsequently hydrogenated. According to formula I, the fatty acid occupancy of such a phosphatidylcholine consists predominantly of stearic acid and palmitic acid (R ₁ , R ₂ = palmitoyl, stearoyl):

According to formula I, natural phosphatidylcholine (PC), especially if it was obtained from the soybean, contains predominantly unsaturated fatty acids (R ₁ , R ₂ : linoleoyl, linolenoyl, oleoyl) in addition to less saturated fatty acids such as palmitic acid, stearic acid and other acids.

PC, in particular in its liposomal form, is an effective penetration enhancer (K. Egbaria and N. Weiner, Cosmetics & Toiletries 106 (3), 79-93 (1991)). PC can be used as an aqueous bilayer source in Reconstruct damaged lipid bilayers of the horny layer of skin care products (DE 40 21 082), however, due to its low phase transition temperature, it produces in an aqueous environment after topical application in the horny layer very fluid lipid bilayers. These are naturally unsuitable for skin protection preparations, since they are for external (harmful) substances are permeable. Therefore, aqueous skin care products and z. B. Agents for the treatment of Psoriasis (DE 40 21 084) based on PC, where the penetration z. B. of fumaric acid in In the foreground, usually made without preservatives, to increase irritation and To avoid sensitization. The penetration enhancement is also in liposomal baths in Connection with medical and cosmetic active ingredients used (DE 40 21 083). Skin protection Prepared on the basis of PC in aqueous formulations are therefore not useful, since they affect the skin cannot adequately stabilize the barrier against the penetration of external substances.

The skin protection preparations according to the invention show that mixtures of PC-H with PC a have a pronounced barrier-stabilizing effect. In PC-H / PC mixtures, this affects penetration-enhancing property of the PC usually does not turn negative when the quotient is off PC / PC-H does not exceed the value of 1. Rather, the mixture results in an advantageous one Multiple effects. On the one hand, PC-H has the desired barrier-stabilizing effect and is distributed even more effectively in the horny layer of the skin with the help of PC. On the other hand Due to its carrier function, PC transports the esterified linoleic acid into the skin. Esterified linoleic acid is incorporated in ceramides, especially ceramide I (C. Fox, Cosmetics & Toiletries 111 (6), 21 (1996)) and thus promotes the establishment of indirect protection from the inside, of unspecific barrier damage and, moreover, of specific barrier damage, like them e.g. B. in neurodermatitis and psoriasis protects. Linoleic acid can also help prevent acne protect; As is well known, PC is recommended for the treatment of acne and blemished skin (WO 94/03 156, DE 44 04 086, DE 44 03 989). This makes it possible to pre-use a single preparation Dermatoses and eczema triggered by pollutants, especially working materials to protect against endogenous skin damage, as well as with appropriate disposition. In this connection, it should be noted that those described in the patents mentioned Acne remedies not only because of the sole PC base, but also because of the usually in the Preparations containing solvents are unsuitable for use as skin protection agents; also the PC-like bath oils mentioned in DE 40 21 083 are for people who have a disposition too Allergies, psoriasis, neurodermatitis or ichthiosis show, suitable, but can be from the above reasons mentioned also do not use as skin protection products. DE 40 21 084 describes topical drugs for the treatment of psoriasis and related skin diseases, DE 40 21 082 Skin treatment agent with high lipid contents using a bilayer containing Systems, salts of organic acids, alcohol and stabilizer. These two patents are among others also hydrogenated phosphatidylcholines in their known function as a bilayer source, however no skin protection preparations mentioned, DE 40 21 082 also expressly describes soaps as Main components are used. The emulsifying soaps change under the Influence of the alkaline neutralization behavior of the skin only gradually changes into the free acids therefore z. B. for everyday commercial use, where it depends on the immediate entry of skin protection arrives less suitable. The skin barrier is made this way by the skin protection preparations according to the invention containing PC-HIPC stabilizes that after the application of the skin protection products in a normal range lying TEWL changes only slightly if external substances act on the skin, or one already increased TEWL is normalized. The protection obtained in this way is also characterized by a high water resistance and sweat resistance.

Another characteristic of the skin protection preparations according to the invention are triglycerides, which with same or comparable structure also occur in natural sebum. Preferably acts medium-chain triglycerides (MCT). Due to their structure, MCT can do the natural thing Some substitute sebum or are extremely compatible with sebum. Have MCT also the advantage of being able to incorporate lipophilic protective and active substances and quickly into the To absorb skin and therefore not to grease. Due to the PC-H / PC properties, the Skin protection preparations according to the invention without the addition of mineral oil products, synthetic Paraffins or silicones have high water and sweat resistance. The amphiphilic structure of the PC-H allows the skin protection preparations according to the invention to be used both compared to the above mentioned barrier and skin damage as well as against aqueous and oily (harmful) substances.

In the case of skin protection preparations against special oily pollutants, the MCT portion of the Skin protection products may be reduced. Another advantage of the amphiphilic structure is the comparatively low swelling of the skin when exposed to aqueous media (cf. Corresponding measurements for body cleansers: U. Zeidler, medical cosmetology 19, 208- 219 (1989)); this also results in favorable usage properties in the commercial protection of Hands when working with gloves at times.

The skin protection preparations according to the invention can also contain salts that are capable of are to stabilize or to stabilize the mineral salt content characteristic of healthy skin reinforce. The mineral salt content is known to be an important regulatory factor for both Skin moisture as well as for normal cell proliferation and cell differentiation as well as with it connected synthesis of epidermal, barrier-reactive lipids (K.R. Feingold, Cosmetics & Toiletries 112 (7), 49-59 (1997)). In any case, the skin protection preparations contain long salts chain carboxylic acids that are compatible with the skin barrier and can reinforce it; these Long-chain carboxylic acid salts also have structure-forming properties with regard to the oleo gel and if necessary increase the adhesion of the oleogels to moist (mucous) skin surfaces. In contrast to DE 40 21 082, however, these are not emulsifying and water-soluble soaps of sodium and potassium (alkali salts). The structure-forming properties are added to calcium and magnesium salts in particular by adding a maximum of 5% Water based on the total composition increased.

The skin protection preparations according to the invention contain physiologically compatible moisturizing substances punch on the basis of polyols and / or urea. These substances bind and have water high effectiveness in preventing skin roughness and cracking and especially protection against oily (lipophilic) substances. Polyols, especially glycerin, work also has a beneficial effect on the tactile properties of the skin protection preparations.

The multiple action of the skin protection preparations according to the invention allows by varying the Quotients of PC and PC-H content as well as the variation of an additional dermatolo content active ingredients in an ideal way, the setting of a continuous and compatible Release of these active substances. PC / PC-H quotient and drug content can vary depending on individual active ingredient and the respective skin disposition can be adjusted. If the dermatological active substances have known side effects, these can also be caused by the PC / PC-H quotients, the active substance content and the other components according to the invention to reduce.

The skin protection preparations according to the invention differ in their composition fundamentally of the previously used O / W and W / O emulsions. During O / W emulsions in Usually protect against oily substances and protect W / O against aqueous substances Skin protection preparations according to the invention both against oily and against aqueous substances and protect their mixtures. The reason is the very low solubility of the hydrogenated phosphatidyl cholins in oily and aqueous media. In this capacity, it is very similar to the barrier act ven ceramides. The skin protection also extends to dusts, high and low air humidity and aerosols.

The skin protection preparations according to the invention contain dermatological and cosmetic active ingredients. Active ingredients have the purpose of increasing the skin-protecting properties according to the invention reinforce or add. The active ingredients are particularly anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory Nature. With dispositions to skin dermatitis, urticaria, psoriasis or ichthiosis-like damage antipruritic and local anesthetic substances are helpful to prevent corresponding to protect manual injuries from scratching from the outset. But also as active ingredients e.g. B. understood substances that reinforce the skin against the penetration of harmful heavy metal ions Protect (nickel, cobalt, copper, etc.). The effect of these active ingredients is usually based on the Binding of the heavy metals by complexation or on an additional reinforcement of the Barrier. Other suitable additional active ingredients are skin-protecting lipids and waxes, vitamins and provitamins, antifungals, anti-inflammatory substances, immunosuppressants, anti-infectives, Antiseptics, antivirals, astringents, plant and yeast extracts, vegetable oils with specific Effects or a high content of highly unsaturated (essential) fatty acids, Barrier-stabilizing acids, covering substances and pigments as well as individual substances with special Effects (e.g. on acne).

A particular advantage of skin protection products with a suitable PC / PC-H ratio is that The fact that in these preparations also sensitive active ingredients, such as vitamins and unsaturated Natural products (e.g. evening primrose oil) by the phosphatidylcholines similar to those in liposomal Preparations are protected. These substances are used in the skin protection preparations according to the invention degraded significantly more slowly or changed oxidatively. This applies e.g. B. also for the hydrolytic Breakdown of urea. As a result, the dosages of appropriate auxiliaries can be reduced or these substances can be eliminated entirely.

Depending on the composition, the skin protection preparations according to the invention can also be used on moist Skin surfaces stick. They can therefore also be used to protect the mucous membrane. As Mucous membrane protection not only reinforce the barrier, but also develop a strong one Lubricating effect, especially in the lip, anal and vaginal area to protect against lesions is desired. The lubricating effect is very beneficial if the Bartholin glands are insufficient. The phosphatidylcholines contained in the oleogels also enable incorporation of ceramides and due to their transport properties also their availability in the skin. The Another advantage of oleogels is that they naturally have no preservatives and Emulsifiers with increased washout effect, such as. B. ethoxylates, get along, despite their concentration can be distributed very well due to the extreme phosphatidylcholine content move in well and don't look greasy. Occlusive effects like those of other oil components like Paraffin oil and petroleum jelly are known not to occur. Even side effects like those with typical W / O or O / W preparations occur under the influence of UV or sunlight (Mallorca acne) not observed. Oleogels can be filled in very small containers and thereby increase acceptance among users.

The skin protection preparations can be mixed with conventional mixing tools known to those skilled in the art and subsequently with a guide beam mixer, rotor stator device, high pressure homogenizer, dissolver or other similar devices can be homogenized. The manufacture is in an example explained.

In summary, the skin protection preparations according to the invention consist of:

• 1. hydrogenated (saturated) phosphatidylcholine (PC-H) with the addition of
• 2. unsaturated phosphatidylcholine (PC) in a defined PC / PC-H ratio as well
• 3. medium chain triglycerides,
• 4. Salting,
• 5. moisturizing substances,
• 6. active substances,
• 7. Water

For example, in the skin protection preparations according to the invention. B. process the following ingredients be prepared:

1) Hydrogenated (saturated) phosphatidylcholine (PC-H): Among them are phosphatidylcholine plants Licher, animal or synthetic origin to understand their unsaturated esterified acid components were completely hydrogenated. Of course, saturated synthetic Phosphatidylcholines, which are logically identical to hydrogenated phosphatidylcholines, also from synthesize corresponding individual components. Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholines are e.g. More colorful the name Phospholipon 80 H, Phospholipon 90 H or Phospholipon 100 H commercially. The Numbers behind the name are a measure of the phosphatidylcholine content, which includes other commercial products can usually vary between 50 and 100%. The rest most of the products consist of known (soybean oil) typical accompanying phospholipids (Phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol, lysophosphatidylcholine, phosphatidic acid, rest oil content), which are also available in hydrogenated form. Synthetic phosphatidylcholines are e.g. B. Dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine (DPPC) or Distearoylphosphatidylcholine (DSPC).

2) Unsaturated phosphatidylcholine (PC): Among them are within the scope of the invention Skin protection preparations phosphatidylcholines of vegetable, animal or synthetic origin too understand that also contain unsaturated fatty acids in esterified form. Requirement is, that the PC products used contain linoleic acid. The proportion of linoleic acid in the Total fatty acids amount to 5-100%. Linoleic acid contents of 50-80% are preferred based on the fatty acids. Phosphatidylcholines are e.g. B. under the name Phospholipon 80, Phospholipon 90 or Phospholipon 100 commercially. The numbers behind the name are a measure for the phosphatidylcholine content, which usually includes other commercial products can vary between 50 and 100%. Most of the rest of the products are made up from known (soybean oil) typical accompanying phospholipids (phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidyl inositol, lysophosphatidylcholine, phosphatidic acid, residual oil content). Synthetic phosphatidyl cho line are e.g. B. Dilinoleoylphosphatidylcholine (DLPC), 2-Linoleoyl-1-stearoylphosphatidylcholine (LSPC) or 2-linoleoyl-1-palmitoylphosphatidylcholine (LPPC).

3) Medium-chain triglycerides (MCT): In the context of the skin protection according to the invention, these are to be understood as meaning medium-chain triglycerides or triglyceride mixtures in which straight-chain fatty acids with chain lengths of C ₈ to C ₁₆ are esterified with glycerol. Triglycerides with fatty acids C ₈ to C ₁₂ are particularly preferred. Products of this type are traded under different names (e.g. Myritol 312 and 318 or Miglyol, 810 and 812).

4) Salts: These include, within the scope of the skin protection preparations according to the invention, salts of To understand sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, zinc and choline. Are preferred Fluorides, chlorides, sulfates, phosphates, 2-aminoethyl phosphates, glycolates, lactates, citrates, Succinate, malate, fumarate, monomethyl fumarate, monoethyl fumarate, tartrate or their Mixtures. The mixtures can e.g. B. also be of natural origin (including sea salt different provenance, e.g. B. from the Dead Sea). Chlorides are particularly preferred, Sulphates and fumarates of potassium, sodium, calcium, magnesium and zinc. The salts can also advantageously be in the form of complexes together with the Phosphatidylcholines 1) and 2) are used because they are particularly high in this way Own availability. Examples of such complexes are phosphatidylcholine calcium chloride, Phosphatidylcholine magnesium chloride, phosphatidylcholine magnesium sulfate, phosphatidylcholine Zinc chloride, phosphatidylcholine zinc sulfate, the phosphatidylcholine in unsaturated or saturated (hydrogenated) form. These are complexes in a molar ratio 1: 1. Particularly preferred are phosphatidylcholine calcium chloride, phosphatidylcholine magne sodium chloride and phosphatidylcholine zinc chloride. In addition, water-insoluble salts of long-chain carboxylic acids are also included under salts understand: palmitates, isopalmitates, 11-hydroxypalmitates, stearates, isostearates, 12-hydroxystea rate, oleate, palmitoleate, ricinolate, linolate, laurate, myristate of aluminum, calcium, Magnesium and zinc. Are particularly preferred among the long-chain carboxylic acid salts Palmitates, stearates, 12-hydroxystearates, oleates and ricinolates of aluminum, calcium, mag nesium and zinc.

5) Humectants: These include within the scope of the skin protection preparations according to the invention understand physiologically compatible polyols, urea or mixtures thereof. Typical representatives are glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, Glycerin, inositol (inositol), sorbitol (sorbitol), mannitol, palatinite, maltodextrin, dextrin, cyclodextrin, Glucose, fructose, lactose, mannose, galactose and other saccharides. Particularly preferred are glycerin, sorbitol and urea.

6) Dermatological and cosmetic active ingredients of the skin protection preparations according to the invention are skin-protecting lipids and waxes such as. B. mono-, di-, tri- and polyglycerides of ricinoleic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, 11-hydroxypalmitic acid and oleic acid, castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil, octyldodecyl castor oil, octyl 12-hydroxystearic acid, beeswax, Japanese wax, camauba wax, cetyl palmitate, cocoa butter , Jojoba oil, shea butter, squalene, squalane, cholesterol, cholesteryl sulfate, phytosterols, lanolin, lanolin alcohols and their derivatives, ceramides, sphingolipids, sphinganine, sphingosine, sphingosine-1-phosphate, sphingomyelin, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate and linoleic acid methyl ethyl ester, linoleic acid mono-, di- and triglycerides, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and natural fatty oils, such as. B. avocado oil, wheat germ oil, Maca damian nut oil, apricot kernel oil, almond oil, hemp oil, linseed oil, sesame oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, peanut oil in natural and hydrogenated form. Other active ingredients can include vitamins and provitamins (in particular A, B complex, C, E, D and their usual derivatives such as vitamin A acid, vitamin A acetate, vitamin A palmitate, vitamin C palmitate, vitamin E acetate, palmitate and linoleic acid, alfacalcidol, calcitriol, colecalciferol, ergocalciferol, transcalcifediol, calciprotriol, calcifediol, vitamin D ₃ , β-carotene, panthenol, pantothenic acid, biotin), surface itch-relieving surface anesthetics (e.g. polydalainin, benzocaine, benzocaine, benzocaine, lidocaine, benzocaine, benzocaine, benzocaine, benzocaine) , Quinisocaine), antipruritic H ₁ antihistamines (e.g. meclozin, cetirizine, promethazine, diphenhydramine, chlophenoxamine, doxylamine, pheniramine, brompheniramine, dexchlorpheniramine, bamipin, clemastine, dimetindene, mebhydadin, antioxidant, astidolinol, antidirotinol, loratadolin, loratadolin, loratadolin, loratadinol, antidirotin, loratimolin, loratadinol, antidirotin, loratimolin, loratadinol, antidirotin, loratadolin, loratadolin, loratadinol, antidirotin, loratadinol, antidirotin, loratadinol, antidote (e.g. econazole, bifonazole, isoconazole, oxiconazole, tioconazole, fenticonazole, clotrimazole, miconazole, ketoconazole, itraconazole, fluconazole, sertaconazole, terbinafine, naftifine, omoconazole, tolnaftate, amnonate orolfin, amphotericin B, nystatin, natamycin, griseofulvin, flucytosine, ciclopirox, tolciclate, undecylenic acid), anti-inflammatory substances (e.g. B. glucocorticoids and their derivatives such as triamcinolone acetonide; Bufexamac, chamomile extract, witch hazel extract, tannins, bisabolol, ammonium bituminosulfonate, acetylsalicylic acid, allantoin), immunosuppressants (e.g. methotrexate, ciclosporin, retinoids (e.g. isotretinoin, acitretinoin, tazfarotenindine), ), Cytokines (e.g. interleukins, interferons, tumor necrosis factors), antiseptics (e.g. chlorhexidine, benzalkonium chloride, 8-hydroxyquinolines, ethacridine, hexetidine, acriflavinium chloride, benzoxonium chloride, bibrocathol, dequalinium salts, azelaic acid, diglycerol monolatin, resorcinol, farincinol monocellium) , colloidal silver, silver chloride, gentamycin, salicylic acid, ozonized olive oil, benzoyl peroxide), antivirals (e.g. aciclovir, penciclovir, foscarnet sodium, idoxuridine, trifluridine, tromantadine, vidarabine), astringents (e.g. tannextract, oak rind, oak winnr, Wichenr ), Extracts with specific effects (e.g. aloe vera extract, green tea extract, algae extract, echinacea extract, arnica extract, cucumber ne extract, hop extract, carrot extract, bran extract, witch hazel extract, yeast extract, gingko biloba extract), vegetable oils with specific effects (e.g. B. rosemary oil, chamomile oil, sage oil, calendula oil, lavender oil, St. John's wort oil, lemon balm oil, sea buckthorn oil, tea tree oil, cedarwood oil, cypress oil), oils with a high content of esterified highly unsaturated (essential) fatty acids (e.g. evening primrose oil, currant oil, rosehip oil, borage oil) Soybean oil, fish oil) as well as barrier-stabilizing acids (e.g. linoleic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, palmitic acid, 11-hydroxypalmitic acid and in low doses also oleic acid, protein hydrolyzate condensates ("lipacide", e.g. palmitoyl wheat protein hydrolyzate, dipoline nitrate, dipoline nitrate Palmitoylglutamic acid), hyaluronic acid) and individual substances with special effects (e.g. 1,2-dithiacyclopentane-3-valerian acid, adapalene, ammoidin, tioxolone, minoxidil, fluorouracil). In addition, the active substances include substances that are able to prevent heavy metal cations from penetrating the skin (e.g. EDTA, 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid, trimethyl ammonioacetate, CM-glucan, chitosan, polyvinyl alcohol, Polyvinylpyrrolidone, bentonite, kaolin, cyclodextrins, pectins and their derivatives, alginic acid and alginates, polysaccharides and their derivatives (e.g. microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose ether, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, carmellose, carboxymethyl cellulose, tragacanth, tragacanthine, carrant, tragacanthine) Locust bean gum, guar gum and its derivatives, arabic gum, polyacrylates and their copolymers). The active ingredients also include covering substances and pigments such as. B. magnesium oxide, magnesium carbonate, magnesium aluminum silicate, magnesium stearate, magnesium isostearate, talc, calcium carbonate, zinc oxide, zinc carbonate, zinc stearate, zinc laurate, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, iron hexacyanoferrate, bismuth oxychloride, aluminum oxide, aluminosilicate, silicon dioxide, aerosil, boron nitride, mica and rock. Pigments, which optionally with known compatible dyes or tanning agents, such as. B. dihydroxyacetone, can be mixed, have the sense in the skin protection preparations according to the invention on the one hand to protect against external pollutants, on the other hand to cover localized skin damage or skin anomalies in order to protect the skin from corresponding psychological reactions (scratching, pressing, etc.) . All active substances can be contained alone or in a correspondingly meaningful combination in the skin protection preparations according to the invention. Active ingredients with acidic groups can - if necessary - as salts of indifferent bases such as. As sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, trometamol, arginine or lysine can be used. The extracts mentioned are preferably oil, glycerol, glycol or dry extracts. The mono-, di- and triglycerides of ricinoleic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and linoleic acid, ethyl linoleate, palmitic acid, stearic acid, shea butter, beeswax, jojoba oil, squalane, cholesterol, vitamins A, C, E and D- are particularly preferred. Series as well as their acetates, palmitates, stearates and linolates, panthenol, biotin, allantoin, lidocaine, salicylic acid, azelaic acid, avocado oil, evening primrose oil, currant seed oil, rose hip oil, fish oil, ozonized olive oil, magnesium aluminum silicate, iron oxide, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, mixtures of titanium dioxide, kaolin among themselves.

The skin protection preparations according to the invention serve, in addition to protection against exogenous or endogenous related barrier disorders and skin damage especially protecting the skin from watery and oily, externally acting substances or their mixtures as well as depending on the nature of the skin protection against stress caused by dry and particularly humid climatic conditions. Therefore, the skin protection preparations can be used indoors and outdoors. There a The primary goal is the protection of heavily used, sensitive and predisposed to skin diseases The skin protection preparations according to the invention are designed for 24-hour protection. This means that appropriate applications of skin protection products both in commercial as well as private, d. H. in leisure time, vacation and household, to preventively protect the skin at all times and promote self-regeneration. The application is not limited to certain areas of the skin such as hands and face, but can also affect the skin entire body or special other skin areas. The invention Skin protection preparations are adjusted so that they are sometimes very pronounced Have structurally viscous behavior distributed well and usually move in quickly. You can z. B. advantageous for activities in which the skin is particularly long by water is claimed, such as. B. in water sports and in the household. An interesting area of application is also skin protection for incontinence and wind wearers. With prolonged contact with water it turns out the comparatively low swelling capacity of the skin described above after application the skin protection agent as a great advantage. The skin protection preparations according to the invention can be used as examples against the following Apply substance classes, whereby the composition in individual cases has special properties these substances can be adjusted: water-mixed cooling lubricants, aqueous working materials and water, aqueous rinsing solutions, metal salts, metal dusts, feed and grain dusts, Flour dusts, wood dust, preservatives, disinfectants, permanent waving agents, hair colors, Fragrances, meat, fish, body excrement (faeces, urine), body secretions (sweat, saliva, mucus), Vegetables, bulbs, plant juices, fruits, enzymes, impregnants, surface-active Compounds, photochemicals, water-immiscible cooling lubricants, technical oils, Vegetable oils, fats, waxes, tars, resins, paints and dyes, floor care products, Rubber gloves, latex, vulcanizing agents, glue, dental chemicals.

It goes without saying that, depending on the nature of the skin, the skin protection preparations according to the invention can also be used in particularly high and low atmospheric humidity, with vapors and aerosols or as cold ointments (for example winter sports, mountain sports). The contents of the main components of the skin protection preparations according to the invention can vary within the following limits:

• 1. phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 0.1-10% by weight,
• 2. phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 0.1-10% by weight,
• 3. medium-chain triglycerides 40-95% by weight,
• 4. salts 1-35% by weight,
• 5. moisturizing substances 0.5-20% by weight,
• 6. dermatological or cosmetic active ingredients 0.01-50% by weight,
• 7. water 0-5% by weight,
• 8. The ratio of phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated): 0.01-1

The contents of the main components of the skin protection preparations according to the invention are preferably:

• 1. phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 0.5-5% by weight,
• 2. phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 0.1-5% by weight,
• 3. medium-chain triglycerides 50-80% by weight,
• 4. salts 5-35% by weight,
• 5. moisturizing substances 1-15% by weight,
• 6. dermatological or cosmetic active ingredients 1-40% by weight,
• 7. water 0-3% by weight,
• 8. The ratio of phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated): 0.09-0.5

Depending on the composition, the skin protection preparations according to the invention have a solid or semi-solid ointment-like or oily consistency. The individual ingredients can be dissolved, dispersed or micronized form. The dispersed and micronized form will naturally used especially at high salt concentrations. But it also has the advantage that Ingredients such as B. urea, which tend to decompose in aqueous media, for a long time can be stabilized.

The composition and production of the skin protection preparations according to the invention and their use when using different components is illustrated in the following examples. The numbers of 1) -7) presented to the components correspond to the classification of the main components of the skin protection preparations according to the invention given in the description:
1) hydrogenated (saturated) phosphatidylcholine, 2) phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated), 3) medium-chain triglycerides, 4) salts, 5) moisturizing substances, 6) dermatological and cosmetic agents, 7) water. In the examples below, the commercially available phospholipon 90 H from Nattermann Phospholipid GmbH, Cologne, with a phosphatidyl choline content of approximately 95%, is used as the hydrogenated (saturated) phosphatidylcholine 1); the phosphatidylcholine comes from the soybean. The commercially available phospholipon 90 from Nattermann Phospholipid, Cologne, with a phosphatidylcholine content of approx. 93%, which also comes from the soybean, is used as unsaturated phosphatidylcholine 2). Analogously, 1) phospholipon 80 H (phosphatidylcholine content approx. 70-75%) and 2) phospholipon 80 (phosphatidylcholine content approx. 75%) from the same company or comparable products from other companies can be used, the phosphatidylcholine content between 50 and can vary 100%. The contents of components 1) and 2) given in the examples are then to be adapted accordingly to the respective phosphatidylcholine content, ie a lower amount of components 1) and 2) and correspondingly less 3) medium-chain triglycerides are calculated for lower phosphatidylcholine contents. With higher phosphatidylcholine contents, conversely, the amounts of 1) and 2) are reduced and correspondingly more 3) medium-chain triglycerides are calculated. Since a replacement of z. B. Phospholipon 90 H by Phospholipon 80 H or Phospholipon 90 by Phospholipon 80 or other available qualities can significantly change the consistencies of the products, if necessary, a 1: 1 exchange or an exchange with another ratio can be made to more solid, semi-solid to achieve ointment-like or oily consistencies.

example 1 Skin protection preparation against dry lips

1) phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 4.00% by weight 2) phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 0.40% by weight 3) medium chain triglycerides 66.60% by weight 4) Magnesium 12-hydroxystearate 12%, zinc stearate 5% 17.00% by weight 5) glycerin 1.00% by weight 6) cetyl palmitate 2%, cholesterol 2%, ricinoleic acid monoglyceride 5% 9.00% by weight 7) water 2.00% by weight 8) Ratio phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 0.1

Example 2 Skin protection preparation when the skin is predisposed to neurodermatitis

1) phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 1.50% by weight 2) phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 0.50% by weight 3) medium chain triglycerides 63.00% by weight 4) Sodium chloride 1%, magnesium 12-hydroxystearate 12%, zinc stearate 5% 18.00% by weight 5) urea 3% 3.00% by weight 6) Evening primrose oil 4%, ricinoleic acid monoglyceride 8% 12.00% by weight 7) water 2.00% by weight 8) Ratio phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 0.33

Example 3 Skin protection preparation when skin is predisposed to psoriasis

1) phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 1.00% by weight 2) phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 0.50% by weight 3) medium chain triglycerides 76.50% by weight 4) Sodium chloride 4%, magnesium fumarate 5%, aluminum stearate 10% 19.00% by weight 5) glycerin 2.00% by weight 6) Salicylic acid sodium salt 1.00% by weight 7) water 0.00% by weight 8) The ratio of phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 0.5

Example 4 Skin protection preparation when the skin is predisposed to impurities

1) phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 1.00% by weight 2) phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 0.20% by weight 3) medium chain triglycerides 72.20% by weight 4) sodium chloride 0.1%, zinc stearate 15%, magnesium 12-hydroxystearate 5% 20.10% by weight 5) glycerin 3.00% by weight 6) Farnesol 1%, Azelaic acid 2% (as monosodium salt) 3.00% by weight 7) water 0.50% by weight 8) The ratio of phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 0.2

Example 5 Skin protection preparation when skin is predisposed to ichthiosis

1) phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 2.00% by weight 2) phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 0.40% by weight 3) medium chain triglycerides 65.10% by weight 4) Magnesium 12-hydroxystearate 15.00% by weight 5) urea 5.00% by weight 6) cholesterol 4%, shea butter 4%, palmitic acid 2% 10.00% by weight 7) water 2.50% by weight 8) The ratio of phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 0.2

Example 6 Skin protection preparation for irritated, rough and cracked skin

1) phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 6.00% by weight 2) phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 0.60% by weight 3) medium chain triglycerides 65.40% by weight 4) zinc stearate 10%, magnesium 12-hydroxystearate 5% 15.00% by weight 5) urea 5.00% by weight 6) Shea butter 3%, squalane 1%, salicylic acid 2% 6.00% by weight 7) water 2.00% by weight 8) Ratio phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 0.1

Example 7 Skin protection preparation for the disposition of the skin to acne

1) phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 3.80% by weight 2) phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 0.40% by weight 3) medium chain triglycerides 74.70% by weight 4) Magnesium stearate 10%, zinc stearate 4% 14.00% by weight 5) glycerin 1.10% by weight 6) Vitamin E linoleate 1%, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline 2%, cetyl palmitate 3% 6.00% by weight 7) water 0.00% by weight 8) Ratio phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 0.105

Example 8 Skin protection preparation when skin is predisposed to psoriasis

1) phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 4.00% by weight 2) phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 4.00% by weight 3) medium chain triglycerides 64.99% by weight 4) Magnesium 12-hydroxystearate 15.00% by weight 5) urea 6.00% by weight 6) dithranol 0.01%, salicylic acid 4% 4.01% by weight 7) water 2.00% by weight 8) Ratio phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 1

Example 9 Skin protection preparation when skin is predisposed to psoriasis

1) phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 1.00% by weight 2) phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 0.20% by weight 3) medium chain triglycerides 79.798% by weight 4) Aluminum stearate 10.00% by weight 5) glycerin 1.00% by weight 6) Vitamin D ₃ 0.002%, shea butter 8% 8.002% by weight 7) water 0.00% by weight 8) The ratio of phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 0.2

Example 10 Skin protection preparation when skin is predisposed to psoriasis

1) phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 1.00% by weight 2) phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 1.00% by weight 3) medium chain triglycerides 61.80% by weight 4) Sodium chloride 7%, magnesium sulfate 5%, disodium fumarate 3%, magnesium stearate 18% 33.00% by weight 5) glycerin 2.00% by weight 6) Vitamin E acetate 0.2%, salicylic acid sodium salt 1% 1.20% by weight 7) water 0.00% by weight 8) Ratio phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 1.0

Example 11 Skin protection preparation for sensitive skin, especially against oily substances

1) phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 3.00% by weight 2) phosphatidytcholine (unsaturated) 0.30% by weight 3) medium chain triglycerides 60.20% by weight 4) Magnesium 12-hydroxystearate 20.00% by weight 5) glycerin 5.00% by weight 6) panthenol 1%, kaolin 6%, sodium alginate 1%, stearic acid 3% 11.00% by weight 7) water 2.50% by weight 8) Ratio phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 0.1

Example 12 Skin protection preparation for sensitive skin, especially against aqueous agents

1) phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 1.00% by weight 2) phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 0.10% by weight 3) medium chain triglycerides 77.90% by weight 4) Aluminum stearate 10.00% by weight 5) urea 1.00% by weight 6) beeswax 5%, 12-hydroxystearic acid octyl ester 5% 10.00% by weight 7) water 0.00% by weight 8) The ratio of phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 0.1

Example 13 Skin protection preparation for sensitive skin against oily and watery substances

1) phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 3.00% by weight 2) phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 0.30% by weight 3) medium chain triglycerides 75.70% by weight 4) Aluminum stearate 10.00% by weight 5) urea 1.00% by weight 6) palmitic acid 5%, 12-hydroxystearic acid 3%, zinc oxide 2% 10.00% by weight 7) water 0.00% by weight 8) The ratio of phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 0.1

Example 14 Skin protection preparation when the skin is predisposed to pressure ulcers

1) phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 3.00% by weight 2) phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 0.60% by weight 3) medium chain triglycerides 79.90% by weight 4) Aluminum stearate 10.00% by weight 5) glycerin 3.00% by weight 6) Salicylic acid sodium salt 0.5%, cholesterol 2%, cetyl palmitate 1% 3.50% by weight 7) water 0.00% by weight 8) Ratio phosphatidylholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 0.2

Example 15 Skin protection preparation for disposition to perianal skin inflammation and vaginal lesions including insufficiency of the Bartholin glands

1) phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 4.00% by weight 2) phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 0.40% by weight 3) medium chain triglycerides 49.80% by weight 4) Magnesium 12-hydroxystearate 15%, zinc stearate 5% 20.00% by weight 5) glycerin 1.00% by weight 6) cetyl palmitate 2%, cholesterol 2%, ricinoleic acid monoglyceride 18.8% 22.80% by weight 7) water 2.00% by weight 8) The ratio of phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 0.1

Example 16 Skin protection preparation when the skin is predisposed to impurities with a covering pigment additive

1) phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 2.00% by weight 2) phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 1.00% by weight 3) medium chain triglycerides 50.00% by weight 4) Magnesium stearate 18.00% by weight 5) glycerin 1.00% by weight 6) Palmitic acid 2.5%, cholesterol 2.5%, glycerol monostearate 2%, palmitoyl wheat protein hydrolyzate 2.2%, vitamin E acetate 0.2%, zinc oxide 2%, kaolin 10%, iron oxide 0.5% 21.90% by weight 7) water 2.50% by weight 8) The ratio of phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 0.5

Example 17 Skin protection preparation for dry skin

1) phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 2.00% by weight 2) phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 1.00% by weight 3) medium chain triglycerides 71.00% by weight 4) Magnesium stearate 10.00% by weight 5) glycerin 2%, urea 1% 3.00% by weight 6) zinc oxide 2%, lanolin 2.5%, glycerol monoricinolate 2%, palmitic acid 3% 9.50% by weight 7) water 3.50% by weight 8) The ratio of phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 0.5

Example 18 Skin protection preparation for skin disposition to acne

1) phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 1.00% by weight 2) phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 1.00% by weight 3) medium chain triglycerides 55.50% by weight 4) Magnesium stearate 15.00% by weight 5) urea 8%, glycerin 6% 14.00% by weight 6) palmitic acid 5%, oleic acid 2%, azelaic acid 4% 11.00% by weight 7) water 2.50% by weight 8) The ratio of phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 1.0

Example 19 Skin protection preparation when skin is predisposed to psoriasis

1) phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 2.00% by weight 2) Phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) magnesium chloride complex 2.21% by weight 3) medium chain triglycerides 78.79% by weight 4) Aluminum stearate 10.00% by weight 5) urea 5.00% by weight 6) Disodium fumarate 2.00% by weight 7) water 0.00% by weight 8) The ratio of phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 1.0

Example 20 Skin protection preparation when disposing of skin lesions of the extremities that are caused by diabetes

1) phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 4.00% by weight 2) phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 0.40% by weight 3) medium chain triglycerides 49.80% by weight 4) Magnesium 12-hydroxystearate 15%, zinc stearate 5% 20.00% by weight 5) panthenol 1%, urea 3% 4.00% by weight 6) cetyl palmitate 2%, cholesterol 2%, ricinoleic acid monoglyceride 15.8% 19.80% by weight 7) water 2.00% by weight 8) The ratio of phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 0.1

Example 21 Skin protection preparation for large-scale disposition to dry skin

1) phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 1.00% by weight 2) phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 0.20% by weight 3) medium chain triglycerides 69.30% by weight 4) Magnesium 12-hydroxystearate 10%, zinc stearate 5% 15.00% by weight 5) glycerin 1.00% by weight 6) avocado oil 10%, carrot oil 1%, vitamin E palmitate 0.5% 11.50% by weight 7) water 2.00% by weight 8) The ratio of phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 0.2

Example 22 General production of the skin protection preparations according to the invention

Components 1) to 4), where 4) are the salts of long-chain carboxylic acids, are in one mixed the process familiar to the expert and heated to a temperature of 110-130 ° C. In the resulting melt becomes the components 4) during cooling, provided that further salts are desired, and 5) to 7) incorporated. Depending on the temperature and properties of the components they are dissolved or dispersed. Dispersion and homogenization take place with usual mixers, beacon mixers, rotor stator devices or those known to those skilled in the art High pressure homogenizers. Depending on the intended use or the consistency of the desired skin protection The dispersion process and the homogenization steps are prepared over longer or shorter periods Time performed. The result - as is also known to the person skilled in the art - is firmer or more fluid products. During production, it may make sense to add some of the triglycerides only after cooling admit. This means that several products can be achieved with a single basic approach different consistency.

Claims (5)

1. Formulation for use as skin protection against substances acting externally on the skin and endogenously caused skin damage, characterized in that they

• 1. phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 0.1-10% by weight,
• 2. phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 0.1-10% by weight,
• 3. medium-chain triglycerides 40-95% by weight,
• 4. salts 1-35% by weight,
• 5. moisturizing substances 0.5-20% by weight,
• 6. dermatological or cosmetic active ingredients 0.01-50 wt .-% and
• 7. Water contains 0-5% by weight, and
• 8. the quotient phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated): 0.01-1.

2. Formulation according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains the following components:

• 1. phosphatidylcholine (saturated) 0.5-5% by weight,
• 2. phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) 0.1-5% by weight,
• 3. medium-chain triglycerides 50-80% by weight,
• 4. salts 5-35% by weight,
• 5. moisturizing substances 1-15% by weight,
• 6. dermatological or cosmetic active ingredients 1-40% by weight,
• 7. Water contains 0-3% by weight, and
• 8. the quotient phosphatidylcholine (unsaturated) / phosphatidylcholine (saturated): 0.09-0.5.

3. Formulation according to claim 1 and 2, characterized in that the medium-chain triglycerides 3) contain fatty acids of chain length C ₈ -C ₁₂ , the salts 4) are selected from the group of chlorides, sulfates and fumarates of potassium, sodium, magnesium and Zinc and from the group of palmitates, stearates, 12-hydroxystearates, oleates and ricinolates of aluminum, calcium, magnesium and zinc or a mixture thereof, which punch moisturizing substance 5) are glycerol, sorbitol or urea or a mixture thereof. 4. Formulation according to claim 1 to 3, characterized in that the salts 4) from the group the chlorides and sulfates of calcium, magnesium and zinc in the form of complexes with the Phosphatidylcholines 1) and 2) can be used in a molar ratio of 1: 1. 5. Formulation according to claim 1 to 4, characterized in that the dermatological and Cosmetic active ingredients 6) are selected from the group of skin-protecting lipids and waxes, the group of vitamins and provitamins, and itch-relieving surface anesthetics and antihistamines, antifungals, anti-inflammatory substances, immunosuppressants, anti-infectives, antiseptics, antivirals, astringents, plant and yeast Extracts of vegetable oils with a high content of highly unsaturated (essential) fatty acids or with special effects, the group of barrier-stabilizing acids, the covering Substances and pigments as well as the group of substances that are capable of heavy metal cations to prevent penetration into the skin.